The pools of Lençóis Maranhenses are clear and blue
it covers an area of 600 square miles adjacent to the Atlantic coast
just three degrees below the equator in the northeast of the country
Exploring it is a near-hallucinatory experience
each curving as voluptuously as a building by Oscar Niemeyer
are so clear and blue that swimming in them feels "like swimming in the sky"
And the park's surroundings are wild and lush
making the journey along the coast to reach it slow and complicated
Lençóis Maranhenses means "the bedsheets of Maranhão"
I flew from São Paulo to Jericoacoara
a beach resort about 160 miles east of the park
then travelled with a guide by 4WD over several days
eventually crossing the park to reach the fishing village of Santo Amaro
Tourism is a fairly new business in this remote corner of Brazil
but in recent years a few boutique hotels have opened
Among the best are Baía das Caraúbas
"a dreamy cluster of bungalows on a stretch of virgin beach" near Jericoacoara; La Ferme de Georges
in the village of Atins (where my private verandah was "under a pergola of wild cashew trees"); and Oiá
an art-filled hotel on the edge of Santo Amaro
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We took a day to cross the "expansive" Parnaíba River delta
navigating its labyrinthine channels and mangroves by boat
and stopping to watch capuchin monkeys playing in the treetops
And equally magical was a journey over the dunes to a beach that felt like "the edge of the Earth" – but beyond which lay a "modest" family restaurant
where we feasted on a sublime sea bass and coconut stew
Specialist tour operators include Dehouche, Journey Latin America and Plan South America
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The Brazilian free flight federation CBVL is appealing to pilots to observe Notams in the north-east Sertão region ahead of a large military exercise in November
They are reminding pilots of the need to put safety first and check the daily notices
which will potentially affect flying from some of the popular tow-launching site
October and November is peak season for long-distance XC flying in the northeast of Brazil
Paraglider pilots flock there from around the world to fly hundreds of kilometres of XC
often tow-launching early in the morning and staying in the air all day
The longest flights stretch to more than 500km
However, in a post on their website on 3 October, CBVL warned: “With the season booming in the Northeast
one of the best places in the world for flights of great distances
we have an important tip for free-flight pilots
some military events will take place there
so it is essential to keep an eye on the Notams to ensure the safety of flights.”
The reason for the exclusion is the Cruzeiro do Sul Exercise (CRUZEX – Exercise Southern Cross)
a multinational operational exercise organised by the Brazilian Air Force
An international conflict training exercise it will involve 16 countries and will run from 3-15 November
Exclusions have already been in place throughout October but despite the exclusion zone affecting popular launch sites
many pilots have succeeded in making long flights
One pilot who has been flying in the region this season said that the airspace issue had caused some confusion among pilots
“I do know of some pilots who are ignoring the Notams,” the pilot said
“I spoke to two pilots who said their GPS said they’re not in
and they believe that instead of the official information.”
In other cases winch operators have told their clients it was ok to fly. Serena Ronchi, who is claiming an FAI world record for distance using up to three turnpoints for a 434km flight on 13 October
said her flight did not breach restrictions
She explained by email: “Yes there is a Notam but we had the authorisation to fly from Assú
The owner of the winch structures were in contact with the military captain from the beginning and they gave them the live tracking so they can see that we respect what they asked.” Serena’s flight and record claims are still undergoing official ratification by the FAI
In an email sent to Cross Country on 31 October
said: “Any and all unauthorised aircraft entering prohibited areas
especially those reserved for military exercises
the lives of military personnel involved in the operations
and the lives of residents on the ground below them at risk.”
He said that “verbal authorisations” have no legal basis and asked all pilots flying in the region to observe the law
even if this means limiting their vacations
losing the money invested or even failing to earn the money expected from providing services in these areas.”
He added that CBVL has asked XContest to invalidate flights that breach the rules. “They responded that they will pay attention and will invalidate such flights.” The full statement from CBVL is here (pdf)
The 2024 edition of CRUZEX is the largest multinational war training in Latin America
with the participation of the Brazilian Army and Navy
it will bring together more than 2,000 military personnel
and around 100 Brazilian and international aircraft
Already there has been one non-fatal accident, in which a pilot was forced to eject from a Northrop F-5 Tiger II fighter jet of the Brazilian Air Force (FAB) on Tuesday 22 October near the city of Natal. Videos show the fighter jet flying at low altitude experiencing engine problems before the pilot ejected safely and the plane crashed into a huge fireball
Keeping an eye on Notams is key to enjoying risk-free flights
Let’s fly safely and responsibly.”
The Brazilian Air Force has issued a specific Aeronautical Information Circular (AIC) for CRUZEX 2024. You can download the public document here
Brazilian Notams are available from aisweb.decea.mil.br
Jane Fernandes spends at least an hour and a half fetching water from a tank supplied by the Brazilian army
María Dilvânia and seven other members of the Caraúbas women’s association in Rio Grande do Norte
“We’ve substituted it with fruit pulp or milk,” she says
the women make 25 different types of cakes
it has become more difficult to maintain production levels
this semi-arid rural settlement has been in a drought and there is not enough rain to fill household tanks
there is no water source other than that the army delivers weekly
which means that Caraúbas women are forced to make increasingly difficult decisions
"Water is necessary for washing cups as well as for the work to enlarge our kitchen
We are saving it so there will be enough for the house
she leaves home early every day to fill up the 10 water cans given to each family
the women cannot bake more cake and the women’s association cannot increase its earnings
Families end up depending almost exclusively on the payment from the Bolsa Familia Program
harvest insurance (which protects farmers against crop losses) and retirement funds
three of the main social benefits provided by the Brazilian government
The plight of the Caraúbas bakers is just one example of the challenges facing 36 million people in Latin America and another 748 million around the world
people have to choose between cooking and washing dishes
the lack of rain – and supply of water – tends to worsen in the driest areas of the globe
“Northeast Brazil is particularly impacted by El Niño-related droughts; these may become more frequent in a 4°C world,” according to the World Bank report Turn Down the Heat
any water supply project must ensure that people use the water network as efficiently as possible
Maria Dilvânia has to use milk or fruit pulp to make cakes
The good news for the bakers and other local women is that they will not have to wait for the rainy season to have access to water
The town will finally have a regular water supply through a piped network to be implemented between September and December 2015
"Forty-three local families will have the possibility of running water
which will enable them to plant home vegetable gardens and sell surplus produce in the market
Women will be able to continue with their activities,” said Ana Guedes
executive director of the Río Grande of the Sustainable North project
a joint program of the Brazilian government and the World Bank
families will learn to take advantage of shower or toilet water
which specialists refer to as “grey water.”
It is a lesson that the wealthiest regions of Brazil
are learning from their own experience since drought and water shortages are not only a problem for northeastern Brazil
gave 53,000 families access to potable water in several communities of Rio Grande do Norte
The social impact was immediate and significant
Women in those communities – who were previously responsible for fetching water in enormous cans – no longer have that burden; therefore
they can now spend more time working or playing with their children
A study in 20 communities found that household income increased by 30% as a result of the initiative
many rural families still have a demand for water,” said Fátima Amazonas
a rural development expert at the World Bank
She added that the new project to bring water to Caraúbas will also help to recover the environment and provide training to farmers
Jane spends at least an hour and a half fetching water from the tank supplied by the army
“My dream is that the water will finally come and I can finish my studies to give my daughters a better life,” said Jane
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