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with Viking River Cruises adding a fourth ship
The vessel is the line's fourth "baby Longship"
so called because it’s roughly half the size of Viking’s signature “Longships,” carrying only 106 passengers (as opposed to the 190 that the line’s ships usually have on other European rivers)
The smaller size allows Viking Helgrim to get through the narrower locks along the Douro
but it also means there is less public space -- no shuffleboard or mini-golf
for example (yet there is a much-needed pool)
We sailed on Viking Helgrim last week
Viking Helgrim on the Douro River (Photo: Adam Coulter)
Anyone who has been on a Viking Longship -- and there were many passengers onboard who had
as this is usually a third or fourth river cruise for many people-- will immediately recognize popular Viking River Cruise features: The Aquavit Terrace
where you can sit outside at the front of the ship (in a departure
complete with baby grand piano and a tiny library
It’s all scaled down to fit the Portuguese locks
The décor is also the same: black and white photos on the walls
light Scandinavian woods and plenty of light
Viking Helgrim has modern essentials such as USB sockets by the beds above the desk
as well as plenty of sockets (for different plug types) dotted around the cabin
We also love the shower rooms -- all wooden floors throughout
including in the shower itself; own brand Frejya products rather than generic dispensers and Hans Grohe showers
Viking has installed a small pool on the sun deck
it’s a great place to cool off in the scorching Portuguese summer and has a strong jet on one end so you can swim against it for exercise
overseen by Hungarian-born and Swiss-trained chef
All river cruise lines offer local specials
taking time at the nightly port talk to explain what was in season (there was always a Chef's Recommendation section on the menu every night – and it was ALWAYS the best)
often from the village we were visiting that day
Sample Portugese dishese were grilled sardines on toast; "Pichanha com Esmagado" -- a steak marinated for 48 hours and cooked for four; Piri Piri chicken; seared rack of lamb and – on the day of our excursion to Salamanca
in Spain -- gambas al ajillo (prawns in garlic)
every night there was a delicious local speciality and Peter even gave a demo on how to make the Portuguese classic Pastel de Nata
It's also worth mentioning that the always-available selection -- rib eye steak
the Norwegian salmon and roast chicken -- was also delicious
Marialva Castle & Picnic shore excursion on a Douro River cruise hosted by Viking River Cruises
Viking has carefully curated their excursion options on the Douro River
The fortified wine is made at "quintas" (wineries)
But the standout excursion was not to a vineyard
but one billed simply as "Marialva Castle & Picnic.” Capped at 12 people
the excursion began with a short bus ride to a tiny town
where we then all hopped onto an open-back truck and trundled through the village's tiny streets and nearby fields to a clearing in olive groves
we found a table groaning with food -- salads
pasta and fresh-made local bread – as well as limited edition wine from a local vineyard
the proprietors of the nearby hotel Casas do Coro
followed by a slightly tipsy truck ride to the hotel (with music blaring from the speakers) and a lazy afternoon by the pool (although you could visit the ruined castle
We returned to the ship 90 minutes late -- which speaks volumes about how special this was
One issue on the Douro is that you do need to expect coach journeys
often 45 minutes or longer (Salamanca was two hours away.) It means you are off the ship an awful lot (often all day) and so you miss one of the loveliest aspects of this cruise -- just sailing along the river
just staring out the window at the endless olive groves and vineyards
Crew onboard Viking Helgrim (Photo: Adam Coulter)
We use the word "intuitive" when describing great service
and that’s exactly what we found on Viking Helgrim
The service was at an extraordinarily high standard
from the cabin steward Attila; to our waiters -- Abdul and Milan; to the Captain
Hotel Manager David and Maitre D' Manuel
the A/C was down very low and we were clearly uncomfortable (though being British
Manuel spotted this and turned up the air for us
he spotted we were on the "Silver Spirits" beverage package and instead of serving us the standard wine
immediately brought over the wine menu for us to choose
Peter knew our omelet preference after day one; Manuel cracked open a bottle of Veuve Clicquot because he said we could do better than the house bubbles; Abdul put aside fresh mint for tea every evening; David and Sam gave us tips on where to go for a run; Sam suggested spots to go for a drink and which excursions to do; David gave us a bowl of olives because he noticed we liked them
but this was particularly hard and we will miss them -- and their smiles and infectious enthusiasm
The full "cruise" can begin in Madrid or Lisbon
where the ship is overnight for two nights
including the famed Dom Luis 1 bridge (the longest of its kind in the world); steep streets with doorways leading into tiny restaurants; a cable car and rickety old trams as well as a number of world-class monuments
The whole city center has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site
The only problem is you have to stand in line for at least and hour and a half to get in
with lots of bars by the river and summer street parties; it all changes a few miles inland
The Douro River is a total contrast to the Rhine and Danube rivers -- there’s no industry
Instead you'll see wild and wooded banks with houses falling to the water and little marinas at the bottom; miles and miles of forested hills
just occasionally the cute train track that hugs sections of the river
The only sound you hear are crickets and birds
It’s utterly idyllic – and Viking Helgrim is the perfect way to see it
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Wikimedia commonsThe historic town of Marvão, nestled in Alto Alentejo within the Portalegre district, is a place of undeniable charm that truly deserve its place on the historical villages of Portugal map. Perched atop walls that soar to 860 metres, Marvão captivates with its blend of Gothic and Manueline architecture. Strolling through its narrow streets, you'll encounter remnants of a rich past and sweeping views of the walls that ascend to the majestic castle.
A climb to the top of the keep is well worth the effort, offering breathtaking panoramic vistas over the Serra de São Mamede Natural Park. In addition to exploring the castle, be sure to visit the Marvão Museum and the nearby Roman ruins of Ammaia. If the sun is shining, take a relaxing break at the Marvão River Beach for a refreshing dip.
Wikimedia commonsNestled within the Peneda-Gerês National Park, in the municipality of Ponte da Barca, lies the picturesque village of Lindoso. This charming countryside is home to the largest collection of granaries in the Iberian Peninsula, a testament to the area's deep-rooted communal traditions, alongside the imposing medieval castle that dominates the landscape.
Visitors can also explore several scenic walking trails offering breathtaking views, while discovering other historic landmarks such as the parish church and the old washhouses, which stand as reminders of the village's enduring heritage.
Wikimedia commonsOur next stop takes us to one of the 12 Historical Villages of Portugal, just a short drive from the city of Mêda. This village, believed to date back to the 6th century BC, is divided into three distinct areas: the citadel of the castle, the ravine that stretches the town beyond its walls, and the devesa, which slopes down to the Marialva stream, once home to an ancient Roman city.
Stepping into the citadel within the now-deserted castle feels like travelling back in time. The remarkably well-preserved streets and buildings offer a glimpse into a bygone era. You'll still find the main square with its pillory, the Magistrates' House, and the old Town Hall. Don't miss the Church of St. James and the Chapel of Senhor dos Passos, both essential stops for any visitor.
Wikimedia commonsLinhares da Beira is a historic village dating back to the 12th century, having been granted its charter by D. Afonso Henriques. It was only later, during the reign of King Dinis, that its castle was built, which now stands as the main attraction of this village in the municipality of Celorico da Beira.
This village is like an open-air museum, where every corner reveals a piece of its rich history and significance. Its varied past makes walking through the village streets feel like a true journey back in time. Moreover, the view from the castle, perched 820 metres above sea level in the Mondego Valley, offers a truly unforgettable experience.
The best hikes in Portugal: trails you can’t miss Portugal may be famous for its golden beaches and historic cities
but it’s also a dream destination for hikers
From rugged coastal paths to mountain adventures
Portugal offers trails for every level of experience
here’s your guide to the best hikes in Portugal.