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Let’s say you have only two or three days in Rio
You want to experience a little real Brazilian culture and don’t want to restrict yourself to the obvious tourist stops
overhyped bars and restaurants or usual “gringo” nightlife spots
which means “fair,” is organized by people from the northeast (nordeste)
which is the poorest region in the country
That poverty has led millions of northeasterners to migrate to Rio over the last 50 years to seek a better life
And Feira de São Cristóvão is where they express themselves culturally
from Friday afternoon through Sunday night
located in the neighborhood of São Cristóvão
More than 10,000 people visit the feira every weekend
but there are plenty of cariocas and tourists too – and they are undoubtedly there because northeastern culture is surely one of the most fascinating things about Brazil
at least two big stages and a dozen smaller ones host nonstop performances of forró
a music genre with a magnetic beat – anchored by the insistent ring of the humble triangle – that makes everybody dance all night long
The fair is also the place to buy northeastern handicrafts
is the food – typical northeastern dishes at stands of every size
The big stalls operate like real restaurants and offer substantial
most of them made with goat meat or dried beef (the northeast’s famous carne de sol)
One especially popular dish is buchada de bode (goat offal)
Less exotic but equally tasty are the typical combinations of dried meat and pumpkin (jabá com jerimum) and northeastern-style rice and beans
made with sliced bananas and meat (baião de dois)
You can find all of those dishes – and much more – at stands like Barracão do Aconchego
But really any restaurant you find at the fair will serve you excellent and honest northeastern food
The big restaurants are just part of the show. At Feira de São Cristóvão, there are also smaller stands slinging appetizers, beverages and candy, selling such specialties as acarajé
the typical Afro-Brazilian street food of balls made from mashed black-eyed peas and fried in azeite de dendê (palm oil)
which is always served by traditionally dressed baianas (Bahian women)
The northeast is big: It’s composed of nine states
Feira de São Cristóvão offers seemingly infinite possibilities for exploration
It warrants multiple visits – we recommend going at least a dozen times
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What began as a recreation area for immigrants from Brazil’s northeast is now a destination for visitors looking to get off the beaten tourist path
The densely populated São Cristóvão quarter is home to this enormous complex
to which visitors may arrive at a reasonable hour and not get out before dawn
Afternoons are for shopping and noshing; but after dark
and the marketplace becomes a scene for partying
and live-music performances that are 100-proof Brazil
Authentic northeastern music known as forró plays until sunup
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is set to be restored after being destroyed by a large fire.
the historic palace was largely destroyed by the blaze on 2 September 2018
the former royal residence was being used as a museum and housed the major part of the collections of the National Museum of Brazil
The building served as residence to the Portuguese Royal Family and later to the Brazilian Imperial Family
This was the case until 1889 when the country became a republic through a coup d’état deposing Emperor Pedro II
plans were unveiled to restore the building
The government believes that the palace restoration works can be completed by 2024
the part of the castle that was used by the royals all those years ago will also be restored and brought back to the way it was when the family had to flee Brazil to go into exile
The royal apartments will be revived and used as a place where people can learn about the Brazilian monarchy and the imperial family
the beginning of the restoration works on the facades and roofs of the historic block of the palace will start
points out that the continuity of the reconstruction project requires more funds
The estimated total for the recovery of the facades and roofs alone is 379 million Brazilian real
approximately 245 million Brazilian real has been raised and a portion has been invested in the stages completed or in progress
the Museum also seeks more partners in the private sector
will be invested in the preparation of the executive project
obtained thanks to a partnership between UNESCO
the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro and the Brazilian Cultural Institute
After the declaration of Independence of Brazil in 1822
the palace became the residence of Emperor Pedro I
The remodelling and expansion of the palace continued from 1822 to 1847
After the marriage of Pedro I and Archduchess Maria Leopoldina of Austria in 1817
After the Proclamation of the Republic in 1889
the Imperial family left the country and the palace and its surrounding gardens became empty
one of the few known surviving major artifacts is the Bendegó meteorite
a metallic roof covering 5,000-m² upper the debris was built
An estimated 20 million artifacts appear to have been lost to the flames that devoured the nation’s oldest scientific institution
a litany that includes treasures ranging from one of the oldest human fossils ever found in South America to artifacts made and used by indigenous cultures to incalculable numbers of specimen insects gathered throughout this biodynamically diverse part of the planet
Exquisite Portuguese Colonial furniture perished as well
a candidate in the country’s upcoming presidential elections
“The catastrophe that hit the National Museum this Sunday is equivalent to a lobotomy in Brazilian memory.”
a building that has housed the Museu Nacional since 1889 and which
has been ill-served by governmental budget cuts
The New York Times reported that the museum
which is run by the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro
and staffers were known to have raised money among themselves to pay for repairs and maintenance
When fire brigades arrived on Sunday evening
they discovered that the hydrants outside had no water
Called Paço de São Cristóvão—the Palace of St
Christopher—the structure was the primary residence of Brazil’s imperial family and
fled to his colony of Brazil to avoid Napoleon’s approaching armies
and their eight children moved into Rio’s charming 18th-century viceroy’s palace
Their country place was Quinta da Boa Vista
which had been given to the royal exiles by a local merchant and
offered a splendid vista of glittering Guanabara Bay from its veranda
A contemporary observer called it “perfectly plain
in consequence of the windows being so crowded together
with the Robert Adam–style arched gate presented by the Duke of Northumberland
Then came a gift that launched a remodeling campaign: a monumental new entrance
João originally just wanted two iron gates like those at Syon House
the Duke of Northumberland’s suburban London residence
and asked the duke if a craftsman could whip up some copies for Boa Vista
who had lived in Brazil for a while in the 1790s
not only the requested replicas of the gates but also of the stone gate lodges and colonnades flanking them
an ensemble that had been designed by Robert Adam and erected in 1773
Johnston stayed on to improve it with fashionable neo-Gothic details
after alterations by British architect John Johnston
made more alterations in the middle of the 1820s
Those changes were overturned later in the decade by Peter Joseph Pézérat
who expanded Boa Vista and set it on a neoclassical course
As a guide to Brazilian architecture explains
“The old plantation home and then suburban mansion was adapted to the monumental requirements of a palace.”
following renovations by Manuel de Araújo Porto-Alegre and Theodore Marx
even Pézérat’s ennobling was tinkered with
The tastemaker Manuel de Araújo Porto-Alegre unified the façade of the much-altered palace in the 1840s for Pedro II
such as the classical-style statues that populate the roofline
Theodore Marx came along in 1858 to undertake even more work
(He and Porto-Alegre also designed the imperial family’s Palácio do Grão-Pará
which is the home of Prince Pedro-Carlos of Orléans-Braganza
a forest engineer who might be emperor if the monarchy hadn’t been overthrown in 1889.) Along the way the color of the exterior changed
sand-beige—and the gardens were always in flux
finally achieving their current shape in the 1860s
thanks to French landscape architect Auguste Glaziou
Whether Paço de São Cristóvão will be rebuilt as it was is unknown
As the museum’s website states: “Unfortunately
we cannot yet confirm what can and cannot be saved
but we still consider it early for any balance or diagnosis.” Millions of dollars have been released by Brazil’s Ministry of Education as part of the salvage effort—funds
that would have been well spent years ago on sprinklers
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the third largest poultry company in Brazil
plans to expand its chicken processing capacity by as much as 20% over the next two years
Aurora Alimentos has several products for national consumption and for export. (Benjamin Ruiz)Aurora Alimentos
Neivor Canton, the company’s CEO, told Reuters that the privately-held Aurora intends to invest BRL500 million (US$93 million) in 2021 to achieve that goal
processes about 6,000 metric tons of animal protein daily
Aurora hopes to boost its export sales to other markets such as China
The company also hopes to better compete with rival Brazilian companies JBS and BRF
which are respectively the largest and third largest poultry producers in the world
uses 160,000 metric tons of corn to feed hogs and chickens each month
The company also said it intends to maintain its current level of pork production
with hopes of continuing to export products as China and other countries struggle with African swine fever (ASF)
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It’s been a month since Brazil lost one of its oldest and most representative assets. A fire destroyed and erased more than 200 years of the Paço de São Cristóvão’s architectural history. The building served as a residence for the royal family, and turned a great part of its collection into dust, with many of the items being one-of-a-kind. The National Museum is seeking to rebuild in the aftermath of the tragedy
Several institutions have taken a stand and initiatives have been made in this direction
The emergency works began on September 21 to contain
The Department of Education (MEC) allocated $2.4 million (R$ 8.9 million) to the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ) to complete the first phase of the rebuilding process. Concrejato Engenharia (National Maintenance/Engineers) have been working on site since then, and say it will take six months to complete in compliance with legislation.
Besides clearing the site, the first phase also includes protecting and anchoring the remaining structures and building a temporary independent roof made of metal.
The fire destroyed the building and its collection. Image: Mauro Pimentel/AFP"The first stage is fundamental for future technical studies on site that will allow for the reconstruction of the museum. The criteria provided will later be adopted for the project," says Nasser.
Listed by the National Institute of Historic and Artistic Heritage (IPHAN) since 1938, Paço de São Cristóvão was built in the beginning of the 19th century by Elie Antun Lubbus (or Elias Antônio Lopes, his “Portuguese” name) and became the official residence of D. João on January 1, 1809.
Built in the eclectic style, the structure had a built area of 13,600 square meters distributed through 122 rooms and three floors. Luís André Moreira Alves, technical coordinator of Rio’s Civil Defense, told HAUS that about 80% of its structure was destroyed by the fire.
Soon after the tragedy, the museum’s vice director Cristiana Serejo estimated that the budget would be around $3.7 million (R$ 15 million). However, management is currently working to include in the 2019 Union budget which predicts that it will be around $13.4 million to $27 million (R$ 50 to R$ 100 million) to begin the reconstruction.
In a press conference on October 2, the museum’s director Alexander Kellner said that the resources are the first step to reopen the museum in three years time. In an interview for “O Globo,” Kellner added that the façade and the external grounds will be kept, but that the interior will be redesigned using sustainable and energy efficient materials with low carbon emissions.
The budget, however, only considers the building itself, as the lost artifacts can never be recovered or replaced.
Rebuilding is an option and UFRJ is working to get the funds to do it. Image: Alexandre Macieira/RioturWith this being said, the Portuguese government announced that they will take inventory of its own collection to see what can, in the future, be transferred to the National Museum
The declaration was made by Luís Filipe Castro Mendes
during a meeting with Brazilian Education Minister Rossieli Soares on September 14
as stated by the Department of Education (MEC)
According to the Department of Education, the General Director of Portuguese Cultural Heritage, Paula Araújo da Silva commented that she had been keeping in touch with IPHAN to align actions between the two countries
When asked by our reporters, IPHAN confirmed that since 2017
“it has made a cooperation agreement with the Portuguese Directorate General for Cultural Heritage with the intent of promoting interchange and to develop projects that promote the common cultural heritage between the countries.” The text highlights
that up to this moment the institution has not been contacted to discuss the National Museum’s rebuilding
By Gazeta do Povo
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The Brazilian National Museum has recovered 90% of the artifacts not totally destroyed by the flames and has raised almost 45% of the funding it needs to begin reconstruction in 2021
The search for remnants of artifacts in the rubble of the Brazilian National Museum
has been suspended since March due to the COVID-19 pandemic
The salvage operation among the ruins of Paço de São Cristóvão
the palace that the institution linked to the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ) used to call home
is scheduled to resume at the beginning of next year
Museum management estimates that it has recovered 90% of the salvageable material and that another six weeks are needed to complete this phase
According to a report released by the Federal Police in April last year
the fire was started by an electrical overload in an air conditioning unit
Frescoes from Pompeii before the fire...Romulo and Valentino Fialdini
Fabio Motta / Agência Globo A temporary cover protects the institution’s facade and interiorFabio Motta / Agência Globo
Much of the research conducted by staff from the museum relies on field investigations
which has suffered less impact from the fire
paleontologist Juliana Sayão runs the Paleoantar project
linked to the Brazilian Antarctic Program (PROANTAR)
We came back with more than a ton of fossils and began exhibiting the material at the Casa da Moeda at the beginning of 2019,” recalls Sayão
including professors and graduate students from the National Museum and other institutions
has spent 20–50 days on Antarctica each summer looking for traces of the icy continent’s distant past
Kellner presented a set of bones belonging to pterosaurs
winged reptiles that lived some 85 million years ago
which he found during expeditions to two islands in the Antarctic Peninsula
The fossils were in the São Cristóvão Palace at the time of the fire
but some were rescued in a good enough condition to be studied
two more articles resulting from trips to Antarctica have been published: one describing Hoploparia echinata
a new species of crayfish; and the other highlighting the first occurrence of a type of fossil coral on James Ross Island
it will not be possible to resume fieldwork in the continent’s next summer
Paleontologists from the National Museum will instead work on academic papers based on material already collected
“Knowing the Antarctic’s past and all the processes that led to its freezing helps us to understand the biodiversity of our entire planet,” says Sayão
Fieldwork by other teams from the museum has also continued since the disaster
astronomer Maria Elizabeth Zucolotto from the museum’s meteorology department is leading an expedition to the outback of Pernambuco
where a meteorite shower recently fell over the small town of Santa Filomena
the researcher has been looking for fragments of these solid bodies from space
The invertebrates department has been working hard to rebuild its arachnology collection
which was consumed in its entirety by the flames
The museum’s researchers are certainly not twiddling their thumbs while they wait for the São Cristóvão Palace to be rebuilt
© Revista Pesquisa FAPESP - All rights reserved
he was already sleeping on top of a chest freezer in his parents’ tasca
Like so many tasca owners in the Portuguese capital
they had come to Lisbon from northern Portugal’s Minho region years before
Zé Paulo used to help with the service while his mother cooked and his father ran the business behind the counter
His professional fate was sealed from the beginning
Naturally, he went to culinary school. But he didn’t want to replace his mother in the kitchen. “Actually, my first intention was to become a pastry chef,” he says. But after a year spent working at Taberna Sal Grosso
probably the main impetus for the current tasca revival movement in Lisbon
“I learned a lot working there,” he recalls
That inspiration is obvious from the moment one steps foot in O Velho Eurico
O Eurico was a tasca familiar to many lisboetas
It had been a staple in the Mouraria neighborhood for several decades with senhor Eurico – hence the name – and his wife Carolina at the helm
They also had a grocery shop next door: When the restaurant was too crowded they put extra tables in the shop’s corridor
and clients would dine between rice packets and cleaning products
Eurico and Carolina were also originally from Minho – that’s why the bacalhau à Minhota
because I see something of my father in him.”
Business had been going well but in the last few years
Eurico had some health issues and Carolina couldn’t do it all – take care of the restaurant and her husband – despite her apparent boundless energy
they decided to close up shop in January and look for new tenants (they own the building and live upstairs)
Zé Paulo’s uncle learned about the opportunity and convinced his nephew to check it out
The young gun liked what he saw and decided to go for it
another cook with whom he had worked before
and got the place up and running with the help of his father
who restored every chair in the restaurant by hand
O Eurico became O Velho (“The Old”) Eurico
because I see something of my father in him
it’s a matter of respect: They had the restaurant for more than 40 years.”
The similarities with the aforementioned Taberna Sal Grosso are evident
starting with the main blackboard menu on the wall where clients can see all of that day’s dishes
“We thought about the menu in the three months it took us to renovate this place,” Zé Paulo says
Bestsellers include a very good bacalhau à Brás
but also Iscas de Cebolada (pork livers) and a recipe that he took from his mother
It’s not the only one that she shared with her son
“My mother was here for three days making Leite Creme [crème brûlée] because we had to register on the technical file the recipe she does instinctively.” That pretty much sums up this new era of tascas: giving old recipes new life
This article was originally published on September 27
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The Brazilian Imperial Palace in Rio de Janeiro which burnt down last year is to be rebuilt, with the first stage of construction already beginning. The Palace of Saint Christopher, also called Palácio Imperial de São Cristóvão, served as residence to the Portuguese Royal Family and later to the Brazilian Imperial Family until 1889, when the country became a republic through a coup d’état deposing Emperor Pedro II.
Since the deposing of the imperial family in 1889, the Palace has been used as the national museum of Brazil. It was on 2 September 2018 that the palace was completely destroyed by a major fire. Although some items were saved, it is believed that 92.5 % of its archive of 20 million items were destroyed in the fire, though circa 1.5 million items are stored in a separate building, which was not damaged.
The burning imperial Palace of Saint Christopher in the background, her together with the statue of Brazil`s last Emperor, Pedro II. Photo: Felipe Milanez via Wikimedia Commons.
Efforts to restore Brazil’s National Museum are still underway five months after it was engulfed in a devastating fire. The Brazilian government gave journalists a tour through the ruins in Rio de Janeiro in February. Local construction workers used scaffolds to reinforce the main areas of the museum for the safety of staff and reporters.
According to the vice-director of the National Museum, Luiz Duarte, the institution had suffered from years of neglect under numerous governments. “We never got anything from the federal government. We recently finalised an agreement with the state-run development bank BNDES for massive investment, so that we could finally restore the palace, and, ironically, we had planned on a new fire prevention system,” said Luiz Duarte to Globo TV following the fire.
The Imperial Palace of Saint Christopher before the fire in 2018. Photo: Paço de São Cristóvão via Wikimedia Commons.
The interior of the museum is still in ruins, but restoration work has begun on cultural relics. Some pieces survived the fire, including the famous Bendegó meteorite and a library of 500,000 books, including works dating back to the days of the Portuguese empire and royal family.
The rebuilding of the collection and the museum has received international help. Among the many donors, the German Foreign Ministry has offered € 1 million in aid to rebuild the museum.
With this in mind, the first decision was to take advantage of an existing structure. A warehouse space was chosen because it`s an open plan space, it stands at a height of 9 meters, and it contains translucent tiles, which allow the entrance of natural light, all fundamental components.
Floor PlansThe program consisted of small offices for residents, a photographic studio, a sewing studio, showroom, natural food restaurant, shared kitchen, administrative area, as well as a multipurpose room, co-working space, and auditorium.
© Ilana BesslerThe project to occupy the hangar should not only reflect the MALHA collective`s concerns about sustainability but also promote meeting and exchange. Space should be treated as a great democratic site of debate and learning.
© Ilana BesslerThe starting point for the occupation strategy was the use of containers as the main constructive element that would allow the distribution of the program throughout the hangar, as well as a quick and clean construction.
SectionsThe logic of the occupation consisted in the creation of empty spaces between the forty-two repurposed containers, distributed over two levels along the interior walls. This empty space between the containers structures the project and was intended to provide different ways of appropriation and occupation, such as parades, markets, debates and film screenings.
© Ilana BesslerSome pallets have been spread throughout the space, serving as seating, and small plant beds have been set up which, combined with the sofas, benches, and tables, create an atmosphere that blends the ambiance of a house with that of a public space.
© Ilana BesslerThe photo and sewing studios and the showroom were arranged near the main entrance, while the natural food restaurant, multipurpose room/coworking space, administration room and shared kitchen are concentrated on the opposite side. There was also an open space for lectures and cinema, which consists of a kind of grandstand facing a big screen.
© Ilana BesslerFor the occupation of the interior of the containers, six different uses were proposed, among them, offices, meeting rooms, and pop-up stores. In addition to the container, materials of low environmental impact and low cost were chosen, such as plywood, metallic tiles, and translucent tiles, applied to the internal façades.
© Ilana BesslerThrough all these choices, the MALHA project was committed to rising to the contemporary challenges posed by architecture practices in big metropolises, such as Rio de Janeiro, which involves, among other things, exploring the potential of existing structures. This implies studying new forms of construction and new spatial mechanisms for the occupation of interiors.
the project sought to contribute some solutions to these problems
The fact that MALHA works as a public space
allows the debate to be extended beyond architecture circles
since the strong presence of the containers and materials chosen does not go unnoticed by visitors
UNESCO specialists will help Brazil rebuild the São Cristóvão Palace using modern security techniques
Reproduction from the book Debret e o Brasil – Obra complete Watercolor by Debret, 1817, shows the palace after its first major renovation. On the right, a neo-Gothic style pavilion, designed by architect John JohnstonReproduction from the book Debret e o Brasil – Obra complete
The building shall be restored to the same standard as the original. With 13,600 square meters of space over three floors, the palace was a neoclassical design with eclectic decoration. “But it was not always so. The palace underwent successive renovations while it was home to the Portuguese Royal Family after they moved to Brazil in 1808,” says architect Ronaldo Foster Vidal, from the Brazilian Institute for Engineering Assessments and Expertise (IBAPE).
Wikimedia Commons Side view of the building between 1858 and 1861Wikimedia Commons
The materials chosen for the project are fundamental. “Today we have the technology to make historic buildings safer. Wood, for example, can be treated with an intumescent paint that protects it from fire,” explains architect Pedro Mendes da Rocha, who was in charge of restoring the Museum of the Portuguese Language, located in the Estação da Luz railway station in São Paulo, after a fire in December 2015.
Wikimedia Commons The Palace of Ajuda in Lisbon, made of stone and lime, was the inspiration for the first renovations of the São Cristóvão PalaceWikimedia Commons
When the fire started, the National Museum had already closed to the public, the firefighters were no longer there, and just four guards were patrolling the building. It was later learned that the building never had the mandatory Fire Department Inspection Certificate that demonstrates compliance with legal safety standards.
Brazil has the necessary technical knowledge and museum conservation specialists
Fernando Frazão/Agência Brasil Cristina Menegazzi (middle)
during a visit to the ruins of the National MuseumFernando Frazão/Agência Brasil
also a professor at FAU and a member of the same research group as Ono
says that modernization of the historic buildings that house important physical collections is inevitable
we didn’t even consider keeping tanks of water for containing fires,” she says
“Modernization helps to preserve and conserve the building itself
including its period architecture and the collections exhibited or stored there.”
buildings like the National Museum were lit with candles and lamps,” points out Jovanilson Faleiro de Freitas
an electrical engineer and coordinator of the Specialist Electrical Engineering Chambers at the federal and regional Engineering and Agronomy Councils (CONFEA/CREA)
with wires insulated by bitumen-coated paper
This process of evolution is a nightmare for every historic building
because when electrical installations are not properly updated
In order to guarantee the safety of these electrics
modern wiring must be proportional in size to the amount of energy used
circuit breakers automatically disarm the system
these systems need to undergo maintenance more than once a decade,” says Rocha
Museums need technical teams able to follow and update safety standards
including for one-off exhibitions with specific characteristics
which are regular occurrences in these buildings
Historic buildings must be constantly and preventively maintained
© Revista Pesquisa FAPESP - All rights reserved.
São Cristovão, Vila MadalenaIf you're visiting São Paulo and are interested in Brazilian football make the city's football museum your first stop – and this fantastic
Practically every inch of the walls and ceiling is plastered with footie-themed memorabilia – 3,500 mementos from the owners beloved São Cristovão football club and others
providing a free history lesson of the Brazilian game
Vila Madalena is São Paulo's most established nightlife destination and Rua Aspicuelta and the surrounding streets are full of great little bars
serving excellent chopp (draft beer) and food (try the pot-roast-like carne de panela)
take a stroll to one of the many other bars nearby
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spring afternoon at the Mineirao stadium in Belo Horizonte in November 1993
with Bahia’s away game against Cruzeiro in the Campeonato Brasileiro drawing to an end
Bahia goalkeeper Rodolfo Rodriguez knelt on the grass in his six-yard box
put his hands on his head and looked to the skies
his gesture was a lament aimed at his fragile defence and a plea for mercy from the heavens
there was one thing he had not accounted for
The 16-year-old boy stood a few steps behind him was not one for clemency
That boy had one thing on his mind and one alone: scoring goals
but the second the ball was unattended had been long enough
The goalkeeper grasped at thin air; it was gone
the adolescent in the dazzling blue shirt had nipped in
he had poked it into the back of the empty net
Rodriguez stood up and appealed for some imaginary infringement
The embarrassment had already been inflicted
had scored his fifth of the afternoon and Cruzeiro’s sixth
“Ronaldo was a forward who was always paying attention to everything
he never gave up,” Rodriguez told Superesportes years later
and with Ronaldo’s eviscerating performance in that game
the newspapers in Belo Horizonte featured the grinning
buck-toothed teenager on their front and back covers and several of the pages in between
the headline read: ‘Brasil se curva aos pes do Ronaldo’ – ‘Brazil bows down at Ronaldo’s feet.’
the teenage striker was called up to the Brazil squad for the very first time
he went on to win his first senior club silverware
was part of the Brazil squad that lifted the World Cup in Pasadena and earned himself a big-money move to PSV Eindhoven
But that game against Bahia is etched onto the Brazilian collective conscience as the moment Ronaldo announced himself as a superstar of the future
the time between anonymity and national fame flying past like Ronaldo flew past defenders with the ball at his feet
Ronaldo had only really taken his first step towards becoming a professional footballer three years prior to scoring five against Bahia in front of several thousand people in the ground and many more watching on television
Ronaldo had always roamed the streets of Rio de Janeiro with a ball at his feet and
he played for a futsal side called Clube Social Ramos
when he and his friend Alexandre Calango were taken in by Sao Cristovao
a club from the Rio de Janeiro neighbourhood of the same name
Sao Cristovao’s stadium sits just a 20-minute walk from the iconic Maracana
Sao Cristovao now play in the lower reaches of the Rio de Janeiro state league system and in recent years have teetered on the brink of bankruptcy
playing in the top flight of the state league
but they were not giants of the Rio football scene by any stretch
the club’s facilities were situated relatively close to Ronaldo’s family home in the working-class Rio suburb of Bento Ribeiro
and Sao Cristovao’s coaches and directors were ready to give him the support he needed
an offer that was not forthcoming from the bigger clubs at which Ronaldo had had trials
Alfredo Sampaio was the Sao Cristovao Under-17 coach when Ronaldo started playing for the Under-15s and remembers his arrival well
“He was being looked at by Flamengo,” Sampaio says
“but he had a lot of financial difficulties
He didn’t have money to go to training [on the bus] and Flamengo didn’t offer the help
A Sao Cristovao director by the name of Ary de Sa – the same man who had made the deal with Clube Social Ramos to give some of their futsal players a chance to play on grass – provided a little financial assistance to Ronaldo and his family
as he did with other young Sao Cristovao players from less well-off families
Ronaldo must have been devastated by the missed opportunity with Flamengo
according to Sao Cristovao youth team colleagues
the club he loved so much he tried to avoid playing against them at youth level
But at Sao Cristovao he was finally in a place where he could demonstrate the skill honed on the streets while skipping school
which he did much to the irritation of his mother Sonia dos Santos
who was vehemently opposed to her son’s footballing ambitions
Even with Dona Sonia’s constant reprobation
“I remember [the first time I saw him play] because it was a game soon after he’d arrived at Sao Cristovao,” he says
“It was a friendly tournament [with the Under-15 team] and he scored five goals in the game
That one game was enough for Ronaldo’s rise to begin
He was soon playing for the Under-17 team coached by Sampaio
who was then promoted to coach the Under-20s
Though Ronaldo was still young enough to be playing for the Under-15s
Sampaio says he didn’t hesitate for a second to take Ronaldo with him onto that next rung of the ladder
The coach remembers a cheeky but pleasant young man
boys playing football in Brazil come from poor backgrounds
and you end up seeing some difficult behaviour because of the environment in which they live
“His mother was always present in his life
He didn’t have the resources to do the things that he might have liked to do
Ronaldo’s youth-team strike partner Clayton Grilo remembers that they dreamed of playing against each other as professionals – Ronaldo for Flamengo and Clayton for Fluminense – and would listen to endless funk carioca
a genre of music that emanated from Rio’s favelas
Clayton also recalls the pair skipping bus fares so they could save the little money they were given by the club for clothes
so they could look like their funk singer idols
“Back in the day it was all that baile funk,” says Clayton
who went on to play for Gremio and Fluminense
“[Ronaldo] used to tell us that he’d go to the baile funk [dances] and get with loads of women
Today he can get whoever he wants but in those days
Ronaldo’s behaviour was nothing out of the ordinary for a teenager
There was one quirky element to the young Ronaldo’s personality that Sampaio noticed
‘Why do you score goals and not celebrate?’ He turned around and said
I’m going to end up getting tired.’ He was like that
that some tactical and technical aspects of the game passed him by completely
Sampaio remembers that if he wanted Ronaldo to mark a certain opposition player when Sao Cristovao were out of possession
it was not enough to refer to that player by his position
‘Make sure you don’t give the deep-lying midfielder too much time on the ball,’ Ronaldo would look at him blankly
Sampaio had to point out the boy he wanted him to mark
If it was against Pele or if it was against Joe Bloggs on the corner
dribbling ability and unerring finishing made the other parts of his game irrelevant
“He did stepovers with one leg and the other,” Clayton Grilo recalls
“Nobody could catch him when he was running
the little rascal didn’t like to run at all
Even if it wasn’t yet clear that Ronaldo would become quite as good as he eventually did – “If I told you that I knew [at that time] that he would be one of the icons of world football
I would be lying,” Sampaio says – people other than the coaches at Sao Cristovao were starting to notice Ronaldo’s promise
emerging football agents Reinaldo Pitta and Alexandre Martins bought Ronaldo’s contract from Sao Cristovao for US$7,500
Sampaio had recommended that it would prove a wise investment
national team scouts had started to sit up and take note of a boy who was making waves against some of the nation’s strongest sides at youth level despite playing for a relative minnow
Ronaldo had just made another step up alongside Sampaio
who had been promoted to coach the first team
Yet before he could play for Sao Cristovao’s senior side
the 16-year-old was selected as part of the Brazil Under-17 squad that travelled to Colombia for the South American championships
the tournament was a disaster – they finished fourth and failed to qualify for an Under-17 World Cup for the first time in Brazil’s history
it was another significant landmark on his road to superstardom
a Ronaldo hat-trick gave Brazil a 3-2 victory over Chile and further Ronaldo-inspired wins against Uruguay
Paraguay and Bolivia saw Brazil progress to the second stage – a four-team group that would decide the three nations to qualify for the Under-17 World Cup
Brazil lost 2-1 to Argentina before struggling to 2-2 draws with both Chile and Colombia
The Selecao finished bottom of the group and the other three teams went to the World Cup later that year
But Ronaldo had barged his way through opposition defences
scoring a total of eight by the time the tournament came to an end
It was sufficient for the next leg of his journey to begin
Big clubs had already shown an interest in Ronaldo by then
Botafogo had offered agents Pitta and Martins 50% of a future transfer fee in return for Ronaldo’s signature
less than the US$25,000 the young agents were requesting prior to Ronaldo’s barnstorming displays with the Brazil Under-17s
With that tournament fresh in the memories of the nation’s scouts
Ronaldo’s price had risen and Pitta and Martins went out looking for another suitor
“There was an agent here called Leo Rabelo,” Sampaio says
“and Leo Rabelo was already prestigious in the eyes of Brazilian clubs
It was Leo Rabelo who intermediated with Cruzeiro
he opened the doors for Ronaldo and his agents.”
a significant return on their US$7,500 investment
it was reported in the press that it was in fact Jairzinho
the 1970 World Cup hero and Cruzeiro legend
who had recommended Ronaldo to his old club
the 1982 World Cup final referee Arnaldo Cezar Coelho said on SporTV that it was Jairzinho “who polished Ronaldo
Pitta and Martins published a statement saying Coelho’s claims were false
Their version is that Jairzinho coached Sao Cristovao around that time but never worked with Ronaldo directly
and that Sampaio recommended Ronaldo to them
Sampaio says the latter is “the only version” he knows
It was the first soap-opera drama of Ronaldo’s career
the fact is Ronaldo became a Cruzeiro player
He made the journey 400km north to Belo Horizonte
finally getting a shot with one of the nation’s biggest clubs
Design: Euan Moss
Ronaldo was not put straight into the first team when he arrived
scoring four goals on his youth-team debut
he was still one more extremely talented youth player in a country that produces them like the Cadbury’s factory churns out Dairy Milks
There were even arguments in Belo Horizonte bars about whether Cruzeiro or their local rivals Atletico Mineiro had the better up-and-coming centre-forward
and Ronaldo and Reinaldo battled it out in the local Under-20 classicos and for the No.9 shirt in the Brazil Under-17 side
Hellas Verona in Italy as well as a host of big Brazilian clubs
But as Reinaldo himself admitted after retiring
there was something extra special about his friend and rival
“When [Ronaldo] came into the [youth] Selecao
I’d been there two or three years,” Reinaldo told Superesportes
“I always joked with Caio Ribeiro when Ronaldo came on in the second half
we already saw that one of the two was going to end up on the bench
He’d come on and it’d be stepovers this way and that.”
Less than three months after arriving in Belo Horizonte – three months in which Ronaldo found time to finish top scorer in the Minas Gerais Under-20 championship – Cruzeiro’s first-team coach Pinheiro saw fit to hand the awkward
skinny teenager his senior debut in a Minas Gerais state championship game against Caldense
told Hoje em Dia: “I really remember him on the pitch
After a few more games back in the youth team and another tournament with the Brazil Under-17 team in the United States that served as a test event for the World Cup the following year – which nobody then expected Ronaldo to go to – he travelled to Portugal with the first team
a more senior Cruzeiro forward at the time
who now works with the club’s Under-17 team
says: “Cruzeiro went on a tour to Portugal and Ronaldo went as part of the touring party
By then it wasn’t Pinheiro as coach anymore
scoring his first senior goal against Belenenses – with his head
ironically – and his second against Penarol
“[Ronaldo] went really well at the tournament over there,” Careca continues
and he enchanted both the Portuguese and the manager Carlos Alberto Silva
Carlos Alberto maintained Ronaldo in the first team
Porto were so impressed that they offered Cruzeiro president Cesar Masci US$500,000 on the spot
10 times what Cruzeiro had paid a few months prior
Masci said he wanted US$750,000 and Porto put an end to negotiations
Porto’s reluctance to shell out that extra quarter of a million meant Ronaldo stayed in Brazil a little longer
giving him time to get to know the rest of the squad
Careca remembers a happy-go-lucky character: “He was not at all shy
His relationship with the other players was excellent
“He was a boy who even at the beginning at Cruzeiro showed great potential technically
[But] what most impressed me about Ronaldo and what impressed me right from the start was his focus on becoming an idol and a great player.”
the ability to shut out the world and concentrate only on his game
is something others close to him comment on too
In Jorge Caldeira’s book Ronaldo: Gloria e Drama no Futebol Globalizado
Alirio Carvalho says: “What was special about him was his attitude
Sao Cristovao coach Alfredo Sampaio says something similar: “If there was a time that he didn’t play as well
“When he played against the best in the world
soon saw Ronaldo scoring goal after goal after goal for the Cruzeiro first team
It was already September by the time Cruzeiro returned from Portugal
but Ronaldo found the net 20 more times before the year was out
Ronaldo scored against his beloved Flamengo
and managed eight in the Supercopa Libertadores
Cruzeiro beat Chilean league leaders Colo-Colo 9-4 on aggregate
Ronaldo scoring a hat-trick and setting up another in the first game and scoring twice more in the second leg
Ronaldo scored three against Nacional of Uruguay – once at home in a 2-1 loss
twice away in a 3-2 win – including a deliciously skilful goal to make it 2-0 and a last-minute winner to take the game to penalties
but Ronaldo had already done enough to make himself the Supercopa’s top scorer
That was swiftly followed by the five goals in that single game against Bahia in which Rodolfo Rodriguez suffered his embarrassing lapse late on – a game that was dissected and replayed on television for the whole of Brazil to see and resulted in Ronaldo’s first senior Selecao call up
Careca scored the only other goal that afternoon
“[Ronaldo] showed all of his talent: mental
The only thing he didn’t do that day was make it rain in the Minerao
That’s when he started to grab the attention of the world
“Playing with Ronaldo was really easy because his quality was so far above average
play and grow and give a better account of themselves
He made the game easier and did something that today is rare
he was a forward who decided games by himself
Ronaldo was already working on another part of his reputation in Belo Horizonte
He liked to sneak out of the digs where he lived with other players to hit the town and would sleep at Cruzeiro fans’ houses to get around the curfew imposed by the club
as Belo Horizonte-based journalist Paulo Galvao says
Ronaldo “was always a boy who people said liked two things: women and food”
As part of an improved contract he earned while at Cruzeiro
club president Cesar Masci had given the young striker a red VW Gol that he used to get to and from training and go out in the city
“I still lived in an apartment in the city centre in ‘93,” Galvao says
“and I was walking home one Sunday evening
There was a bus stop on the way and there was a guy [in a car] talking to a girl [at the bus stop
You don’t need to wait for the bus.’ She was saying
for you to understand that in Brazil things weren’t really that serious
Whatever he was getting up to off the pitch didn’t affect his form in the slightest
Ronaldo kept hitting the net week after week
that blistering speed destroying defences left and right
A hat-trick in a pre-season friendly against Jubilo Iwata in Tokyo introduced him to the audience in front of which he later starred in 2002
but the two displays that really grabbed the attention were both in the Mineirao
a ground on which he scored 32 goals in 27 games
when Ronaldo scored all three of his team’s goals in a 3-1 derby win over Atletico in front of almost 70,000 people under pouring rain
the game is remembered for a bit of skill that took him past Uruguayan centre-back Fernando Kanapkis
“He didn’t only destroy the game but he destroyed Kanapkis
The Cruzeiro fans gave him a three-minute standing ovation.”
Ronaldo Fenômeno 'entortando' o Kanapkis, ex-jogador das frangas (1994) pic.twitter.com/FUFMF7Hcm6
— Cruzeiro em Vídeos (@CECemVideos) May 31, 2016
The second gala display was in the Copa Libertadores against Boca Juniors. Ronaldo had been kicked and fouled in the previous game between the two at the Bombonera, and if he went out for revenge, he got it
rounded the goalkeeper and tapped the ball into the unguarded net to win the game
The calls for Ronaldo to be handed a national team debut reached deafening levels and between those two games for Cruzeiro
Ronaldo was included in the squad for a friendly with Argentina at the wild
crumbling Arruda stadium in the north-eastern Brazilian city of Recife
Ronaldo only got 10 minutes at the end after one of his childhood heroes Bebeto had given Brazil a 2-0 lead in the first half as Diego Maradona
who was trying to get in shape for the World Cup
But Ronaldo’s cameo in front of 100,000 fans was what the nation desired
As journalist Paulo Galvao says: “We have to remember that Brazil struggled to qualify for the World Cup in 1990 and in 1994
So there was that desire to see a player who really was out of the ordinary
Ronaldo was called up again for a friendly with Iceland in the southern Brazilian city of Florianopolis
exactly six weeks before the World Cup kicked off with Diana Ross’ infamous penalty in Chicago
Romario and Bebeto were already guaranteed as the starting attacking duo in the USA
but Parreira was unsure of who else to take and against Iceland
playing with the No.7 on his back alongside Corinthians forward Viola
a loose ball dropped on the edge of the area and Ronaldo was there
He hit it first time with his left foot and
after taking a slight deflection off an Icelandic defender
it nestled into the bottom corner of the goal
Asked about the goal on Brazilian TV years later
Iceland goalkeeper Birkir Kristinsson chuckled and said: “I think [Ronaldo] was lucky because I would have saved it
but the ball deflected and went into the right corner
Obviously we could see he was a great player
scored two in the following two games and with it secured his first title as a player – the Campeonato Mineiro 1994
he picked up another top-scorer gong to go with his medal
All he could do now was wait as Parreira decided to whom those last few plane tickets would go
The day of the announcement came and television cameras and radio reporters piled into Ronaldo’s living room along with him and his family
As Parriera read out the names and Ronaldo was among them
brace-filled smile that broke across his face
Perhaps a phone call had been made to tell him the news in private beforehand
or maybe it was another example of his supreme confidence
Despite the hype and hot air that surrounded Ronaldo
there was an understanding that he was going to the World Cup more for the experience than to be a real part of the team
watching from the bench as Romario’s goals secured Brazil their fourth world crown
was confirmation that the future belonged to him
but everyone knew it would not be for long
Ronaldo was already looking ahead to his next move – he had said as much in the press
Ronaldo was already set on making rapid progress towards the very top
he said that Romario had recommended he sign for PSV
by telling Romario that he would break his records in the Eredivisie
one of the clubs who had turned him down not long before
Ronaldo dribbled around the goalkeeper to score and earn his team a 1-1 draw
it was his 56th goal in 58 games for the club in a little over a year
As Careca says: “It’s not any old player who can do that.”
120 times what they had paid Pitta and Martins just over a year prior
“That was a lot of money for a club like Cruzeiro at the time,” says journalist Galvao
“It was enough to pay off all their bills and money they owed
they shouldn’t sell him.’ Maybe they could have asked to keep a percentage of a future transfer fee
“It was good business for both [Ronaldo and Cruzeiro]
he scored goals and won titles and brought money in.”
is also how Ronaldo viewed his time in Belo Horizonte
but Galvao says the word idol is too strong
Despite his success and the fond memories of those who played and lived alongside him
Ronaldo never created a particularly affectionate relationship with the city or club
He never made any promises about returning to finish off his career there
nor does he talk about that period a great deal
That is not to say that the time spent at Sao Cristovao and Cruzeiro was not a crucial spell in Ronaldo’s formation as a player and man
As Alfredo Sampaio and others who know him say
“Ronaldo always put his career ahead of everything else,” Galvao says
He cared about whether he was going to play and whether he was going to earn money
That’s the way he was since he was young.”
The attitude took Ronaldo to the very summit of the world game
saw him twice return from knee injuries that could have ended his career
and has made him a successful businessman too
runs a renowned sports marketing agency and part-owns Real Valladolid
“I haven’t seen him for years,” Sampaio says
I was the manager of Vasco da Gama and we went to play a tournament in Dubai
He said I was the first person who believed in him as a player
His life is very busy but if I do meet him
we’ve always maintained a good relationship.”
who now runs a social project called Centro de Oportunidade ao Talento that uses sport to help children from disadvantaged communities stay away from gangs and drugs
says it would be a dream if he could get his old mate to come and visit the kids he works with and that he hopes to make the visit happen at some point in the coming year
The kids would perhaps see something of themselves in Ronaldo’s story
Nobody expected he would become what he did
Each time he scored a goal or won a trophy I felt that I had played some part in his story
“He had his dreams.” With a leg up from Sao Cristovao and Cruzeiro
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most travellers will have heard of Portugal’s picture-perfect capital full of Medieval infrastructure sandwiched between 19th-century and contemporary buildings
Despite the many steep hills throughout Lisbon
walking is the best way to experience the city (followed by the tram)
and each side street and corner has different treasures to discover
In Mouraria, for example, a few walls are dedicated to fado
a musical style that emerged in this part of the city
Escadinhas de São Cristóvão is a mural that was created by different artists
The mural Escadinhas de São Cristóvão is dedicated to fado music | © claude thibault / Alamy Stock Photo
The more professional displays of street art have been created to beautify run-down
vacant buildings and add extra brightness to Lisbon’s trendy neighbourhoods
who are responsible for amazing displays of street art between Alcântara
Avenida Almirante Reis (a long street that runs from Martim Moniz to the Lisbon Airport) and fashion-focused Avenida da Liberdade
Bairro Alto is one of the most colourful neighbourhoods in Lisbon
small restaurants and tascas (traditional Portuguese restaurants)
A couple of areas where you will find a few amazing examples include Travessa dos Fiéis de Deus
Bairro Alto is a colourful neighbourhood in Lisbon | © dov makabaw sundry / Alamy Stock Photo
The Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is one of the best places near Bairro Alto for a view
and the elevator tram (pictured below) is covered in colourful displays
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The Ascensor da Glória tram is covered in graffiti | © will Perrett / Alamy Stock Photo
São Vicente and Graça Marvel at the street art in Graça | © Nina Santos
On the other side of downtown Lisbon, Alfama, São Vicente and Graça are full of narrow roads that are lined with eclectic artwork
Quite a few artworks are masterpieces by street artist Alexandre Manuel Dias Farto (aka
who uses drilling and carving for his creations
From the buildings off the highways to the narrow streets and quiet neighbourhoods
Alcântara is another great place to view truly spectacular images
is a trendy hotspot in Lisbon | © Kim Kaminski / Alamy Stock Photo
In Alcântara, you’ll find LX Factory
stores and offices was converted from old factory buildings that had been abandoned for decades
The artwork certainly adds a bit of colour to this social hub near the centre of Lisbon
The area around LX Factory is rich in street art | © CI2 / Cavan Images / Alamy Stock Photo
Lisbon Metro Last but not least, the Lisbon Metro stops, such as Picoas, are further locations where street art (including azulejo tiles) adorns the walls
Keep your eyes peeled the next time you’re hopping on and off the trains throughout the city
The corner building at Av Fontes Pereira de Melo features artwork by OSGEMEOS | © Christian Hjorth / Gonzales Photo / Alamy Stock Photo
You can enjoy a guided walking tour of Lisbon on Culture Trip’s nine-day small group Portugal adventure, led by our local insider
Nina is a Portuguese-American writer living in Lisbon
She spends all of her time exploring and sharing the amazing things that Portugal has to offer
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the Maltese were given an unusual football treat
For the first and only time in the history of Maltese football
a team from Brazil was invited to visit the island
Sao Cristovao flew to Malta in May at the end of a long season
The Brazilians were masters of ball control but tended to overdo the fancy stuff
featuring all the techniques which one usually associates with South American teams
The Brazilians won their opening match against Floriana 1-0
the Greens opted for a defensive approach but in the second half
They were more adventurous and were unlucky not to equalise
The same could be said of the match against Sliema Wanderers
the Blues managed to hold the Brazilians to a 0-0 draw
Sao Cristavao ambled through the first period but Sliema struck back after the interval in a final rally which nearly produced a winner
The match against the MFA XI was a great disappointment
The Maltese produced an inept performance which had the home crowd moaning and groaning
They resorted to the slow handclap as a sign of disapproval which was so popular in those days
the Brazilians enjoyed their best game of the tourney
They played some dazzling football and had their finishing been as sharp as their ball control
than one shudders to think what the final score would have been
It is difficult to find a Maltese player who came out with flying colours
The newspapers singled out Ray Edwards as the best Maltese player on the field
Edwards was able to cope with the brilliant Ivan and after the restart
he came to his side’s rescue with several timely interventions
there was a period when it looked as though the locals were going to make a game of it
There were one or two attempts at goal but these efforts were easily dealt with by the Brazilians’ defence
Sao Cristovao were already 2-0 up at half-time
Indio took a free-kick from just outside the penalty area and MFA XI goalkeeper Alamango dived late
Alamango had no fault in the other two goals
The second came eight minutes before the interval when Arlindo beat Zammit and pulled the ball back for the unmarked Indio to crash home from close range
Just before the Brazilians got their third
Salvinu Schembri took a corner from the left and Pullu Demanuele headed down to Sammy Nicholl who took his chance well only for goalkeeper Hello to stick out a foot and clear
The Brazilians’ third goal was a brilliant solo effort by Arlindo
He won the ball on the right and danced his way past full-back Johnnie Alamango
Edwards and Lolly Debattista before firing past Alamango
the Maltese had a couple of half-hearted efforts but the final whistle came with the Brazilians still leading 3-0
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Rio de Janeiro
preparados com maestria por uma série de chefs (muitos deles oriundos da própria Itália)
A cidade guarda uma rota de excelentes cozinhas italianas
seja um requintado estabelecimento dentro do icônico Copacabana Palace ou uma simpática casa em São Cristóvão
receitas da "nonna" esquentando no fogão e o desejo por um autêntico tiramisù: hora de conhecer os melhores restaurantes italianos no Rio de Janeiro
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Recomendado: Os melhores restaurantes vegetarianos no Rio de Janeiro
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ravioles recheados no momento do pedido e pães assados a cada 10 minutos
os pratos servidos neste italiano estão sempre o mais fresquinhos possíveis
tudo é feito no casarão com paredes de tijolinhos e decorado com peças de antiquário
Clima perfeito para um bate-papo mais íntimo
Batizado em homenagem à matriarca da família Aleixo
um dos melhores restaurantes românticos do Rio traz como destaques do cardápio o Bavettine negro com camarões e lagotinis ao molho cremoso de prosecco (R$68,50) e o Cherne em crosta de amêndoas (R$85,90)
Feche a noite dividindo um Profiteroles (R$36,50)
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