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Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived.The first thing you notice when you slide open the door to this yakitori specialist, plonked beneath a highway overpass in Shirokane, is the hiss and pop of succulent chicken pieces slow-roasting over binchotan charcoal embers. The open-kitchen interior is fairly basic, with two charcoal grills and several black stools around the counter. The menu, however, is not. On any given day, there are up to 40 chicken parts for diners to choose from.
What was the crowd like?The compact space means you’ll be rubbing elbows with your fellow diners, but the informal atmosphere creates the kind of cozy camaraderie that comes from reaching over your neighbor for the menu.
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Tokyo
Situated directly under a highway overpass in Shirokane, Toritama doesn’t boast the most glamorous of locations. However, this has not stopped it from being awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand or from becoming one of the city’s hardest-to-book yakitori joints. In fact, there are now three Toritama branches in Tokyo, plus one each in Hong Kong and Singapore.
What makes it stand out is the extensive menu. Most yakitori restaurants grill standard parts like breast, thigh, heart, wings, gizzard and liver, but Toritama rolls out a menu of over 30 parts – plus the daily ‘secret menu’ of rare cuts, which brings the total up to 40. That’s a lot of chicken, and you’d need to be quite the anatomy expert to name them all on the fly.
Sourced daily, the chicken is always as fresh as it gets, so those looking to try it raw can feel safe here. The breast meat only kisses the grill for a slight hint of colour before being served with wasabi and topped with seaweed.
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There are only two fail-safe ways to get through a Tokyo heatwave summer
especially when matched with good yakitori
this well loved yakitoriya has three branches to choose from
Each has been around long enough to have developed its own distinct character and enthusiastic following
it is still the original restaurant (Toritama Honkan) on the intersection between Ebisu and Shirokane that they think of
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Tucked in self-effacingly under an expressway overpass
and too far from the nearest station to contemplate walking there at any time of year
it is certainly not the ritziest or most convenient locale
when Toritama first opened some two decades ago
the area was so down-at-heel it felt like walking off the map
And therein lay much of its cachet: It was a place for those in the know
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Since the establishment of the first Toritama in Tokyo in 1999
this skewered chicken restaurant and bar chain has opened branches across Asia and won numerous honors
including four Michelin Bib Gourmand awards
The chain specializes in grilling up every part of a chicken you can imagine
there are 40 different chicken skewers that can be ordered
the head chef at Toritama’s newest location – a Guangzhou branch on Tianhe Dong Lu
When we pop into the chain’s new Tianhe haunt
Chef Jun is busy heating up a spread of white charcoal
which can reach temperatures as high as 600 degrees Celsius
The secret to grilling up a mean batch of chicken skewers
is to expose the meat to the heat – not the flames
The former helps seal the original flavors in the chicken flesh
and Jun would know – having worked at the Tokyo Toritama
Jun is something of a chicken skewer maven
The momo uses what is arguably the best poultry part and comes with a seven-ingredient dip known as shichimi
while the meatball is elevated by the addition of gristly chicken parts
Another hot order is the chicken intestine (RMB25)
which comes with eggs attached and is apparently in limited supply
While Toritama’s skewer offerings are undoubtedly tasty and extensive
you won’t sate your appetite on meat sticks alone
we recommend sampling the establishment’s minced meat and chicken skewer on rice (RMB65)
whose flavor is balanced by the addition of nori and a half-cooked egg
consider diving into Toritama’s drink menu
A pro tip before we wrap this up: remove the chicken meat from the skewer before eating it
as eating off the stick is frowned upon in the Japanese culinary tradition.
the venue is already swarmed with enthusiastic customers
who are seated at one of the intimate location’s 18 seats
while chatty customers make the space feel welcome.
Price: RMB200 Who’s going: Guangzhou’s Japanese community
culinary cosmonauts Good for: testicle-lovin’ diners
Michelin-quality chicken skewersNearest metro: Shipaiqiao (Exit D)
Open daily, 5.30-10pm; see listing for Toritama
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Best Breakfast: Aloe Vera Yogurt from 7-Eleven
"This is definitely not what you'd expect from the U.S
The service at 7-Elevens in Tokyo is super professional and the food is quite good: Think steamed tofu instead of hot dogs
It has a wonderful texture and it's so soothing."
Photo: Courtesy of David Myers Group2/11The chef: David Myers
Known for: His breakout Michelin-starred L.A
Tokyo in his words: "Tokyo is a hype city out of a sci-fi novel
It's one of those cities where you can have anything you want
but it's also a place where everything's hidden
Go for: "The ultimate drinking culture and a service experience in restaurants and bars that's on another level."
3-4-7 Yakumo, Meguro-ku, Tokyo, 03-5731-1630; higashiya.com
"Higashiya has an amazing selection of teas
but it's all about experiencing the preparation here
The counter was specifically made for serving tea and the bartenders have jeweler-like precision when it comes to brewing it
Photo: John Mahoney/flickr.com/lookatmyhair4/11**3
7-14-18 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 03-5772-6657; honmuraantokyo.com
Get it cold with grated mountain yam and enjoy the space
The design is ber-modern and funky—there's this totally shredded Al Merrick surfboard on the wall that's been made into a painting
Richards/Courtesy of Metropolis Magazine5/11**4
6-22-19 Shirokane, Minato-ku, Tokyo, 03-5795-2950; toritama.net
"Tortitama is a rocking yakitori restaurant that specializes in rare and unique parts of the chicken
a premature egg that's still connected with ovaries
It's like eating an egg yolk—it just pops in your mouth
They also have an incredible boutique shch selection
"This 12-seat bar has the best sushi of your life
One of my favorites is the ika—a ribbon cut of squid with salt and sudachi
and comes only from the bottom of the sea floor as opposed to the top of the wave as most salt is
Sudachi is a really aromatic citrus fruit only from Japan
Be sure to start with tsumami (appetizers) and order some sake
You get to pick out the sake glass you want to use from a tray with a variety of handmade cups in different sizes
hitachinonest.com
it's the best local brew—brilliantly simple
They're also great community people who stopped beer production after the earthquake to bottle water for locals who had no water."
6-15-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Toyko, 03-3400-5474; wodkatonic.com
"This is an incredible whisky bar in Nishi Azabu
The bartenders are trained to make any cocktail and it has more selections of Scotch than you could ever drink."
1-5-13 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 03-3535-8005; starbar.jp
"This small bar is all about the fruit cocktails
they craft very special fruit-based drinks that you won't find anywhere else
Ginza itself is a historic location and it's not unusual to see people walking around in kimonos
Star Bar is a very small bar occupying a corner view of the action there."
5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku, Tokyo, 03-3542-1111; tsukijigourmet.or.jp
"Tsukiji is the largest and best fish market in the world
The tuna auction alone is worth the price of admission
You will ask yourself how it's possible to have this much fish from the ocean on a daily basis
You'll hear a lot of 'What is that?' along with the underground language of the fish market."
If You Only Go To One Place: Sushi Dai at Tsukiji Fish Market
Tsukiji Market, Building No. 6, 03-3547-6797; tsukijigourmet.or.jp
"This is the best cheap sushi in Tokyo. It's only open early morning from 5am to 12pm. Get in line around 4:30am, have a beer, and then go to the fish market afterwards. It's the closest you'll come to fresh sushi."
This article was originally published on February 21 2018 and updated on March 18 2022.
Above Photo: Instagram/@nomitomokl Photo: Instagram/@nomitomokl
Calling all skewers and sake lovers! Perfect for an after-work wind down
this sake bar in Bukit Damansara is an ideal spot for those who want to sample a range of sake while enjoying the delicious charred notes
even those who'd rather order a rice bowl or bar snacks
As Kuala Lumpur's very first sake specialty bar
you don't want to miss out on a perfectly chilled carafe of sake while you're there too
50490 Kuala Lumpur | +6016-661 5907 | Monday-Saturday
Related: 9 Food Skewers To Try From Around The World
Above Photo: Courtesy of Itsumo Photo: Courtesy of Itsumo
Osaka-style skewers that breads and deep fries the meat and vegetables
The restaurant only focuses on chicken (sorry pork and beef fans)
but does every part of the bird extremely well
If other members aren't in the mood for skewers
50480 Kuala Lumpur | +603-6206 4676 | Monday-Friday
Related: Food And Travel: 5 Youtube Channels To Satisfy Your Cravings
Above Photo: Instagram/@kingukongu.my Photo: Instagram/@kingukongu.my
Though more well-known for its superb cuts of meat
a Kingu Kongu dining experience should not exclude its kushiyaki
It's umami at first bite at Kingu Kongu thanks to its special sweet and salty sauce
50300 Kuala Lumpur +6012-871 5456 | Tuesday-Thursday,12pm–2:30pm
Related: 7 Famous Restaurants In Tokyo With A Fascinating History
Above Photo: Instagram/@pekopeko.ttdi Photo: Instagram/@pekopeko.ttdi
60000 Kuala Lumpur | +6013-627 8895 | Monday-Sunday
Related: The Best Eggs For Different Dishes, From Fried Rice To Sandwiches
Above Photo: Courtesy of Butaya Izakaya Photo: Courtesy of Butaya Izakaya
this non-halal Sri Hartamas restaurant aims to recreate the look and feel of a Japanese izakaya
While alcohol and skewered meats are in no short supply here
Butaya also serves a wide range of Japanese foods like tonkatsu and tamagoyaki
While not exactly specialists and more of a jack of all trades type of izakaya
the restaurant's cozy atmosphere and neighbourhood feel has its own charm
50480 Kuala Lumpur | +603-2389 4172 | Monday-Friday
Related: Kuala Lumpur's Tenryu Showcases Japanese Kappo Dining at its Finest
Above Photo: Courtesy of Toritama Photo: Courtesy of Toritama
From Tokyo to KL, Toritama over at Solaris Dutamas is another chicken specialist yakitori restaurant, featuring a diverse menu of all things fowl. From meatballs
diners should try to dine at the grill bar for the ultimate experience
And don't be afraid to ask the waiter to recommend a bottle of a sake to make the evening all the better
50480 Kuala Lumpur | +603-6211 0306 | Tuesday-Sunday
Related: Offal-ly Good: Tatler Tries Chicken Ovaries With Loh Yi Jun At Toritama
Above Photo: Instagram/@sticksnmaki Photo: Instagram/@sticksnmaki
then sticks and maki is what you'll get at this Taman Tun Dr
Definitely a place to bring your friends for a relaxed and fun night out
the restaurant is a definite go-to for good drinks
The minimalist design adds to its sleek ambience and the lounge upstairs is ideal for a post-yakitori and maki nightcap.
60000 Kuala Lumpur | +6014-677 4687 | Tuesday-Thursday
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