This article is part of “Connecting the Americas,” a collaborative project of Americas Quarterly and Zócalo Public Square
Entry into the Casa Chico Mendes Museum is free
but it’ll cost you $20,000 to visit the environmental activist’s assassin
He lives down the street—if you’re interested
I recently visited Brazil’s dusty Wild West town of Xapuri to look into the legacy of Francisco “Chico” Mendes
most famous defender of the Amazon rainforest and an inspiration to a generation of environmentalists—most notably Marina Silva
How Brazil treated the memory Mendes—and his assassins
who have brazenly returned to their nearby ranch like characters from an old cowboy film—might provide a glimpse into the nation’s concern for environmentalism and activism
and maybe also into the candidacy of Silva
Mendes had rallied rubber tappers and Indigenous people in the Amazon to forcefully resist the encroachment of farmers and cattle ranchers
who were clearing a football field-sized swath of forest every second and spewing carbon dioxide pollution into the atmosphere
Mendes is an official national hero and a world-recognized activist
so I thought it was reasonable to also expect him to be revered in Xapuri
“Chico Mendes has been a symbolic force for people all over the world,” the international environmental advocate Casey Box told me
“Other nations see him as a major force against industries and pushing back against aggression
I couldn’t even find a postcard of Mendes for sale
While Box said he recalled seeing an Indigenous activist in Indonesia wearing a Chico Mendes t-shirt
the only Brazilian I’ve ever seen wearing a Mendes t-shirt was a staff worker at the Casa Chico Mendes Museum
which is where the activist was blasted by a twenty-gauge shotgun in front of his wife and children days before Christmas in 1988.“Visitors to the museum come from mostly other countries because the population from Brazil doesn’t really recognize the fight,” the museum worker told me
A magazine cover featuring Brazilian presidential candidate Marina Silva
I would later relay all this to Sergio Abranches
a Brazilian social scientist and environmental writer
“Chico Mendes is absolutely more popular outside Brazil,” Abranches told me
“You’re more likely to find people who know about Chico Mendes at a university of the United States than at the University of São Paulo [Brazil’s top college].”
The unclear memory of Mendes reflects a larger indifference toward the environment and underscores the improbable rise of his protégé
who has become the candidate of change amid Brazil’s social unrest and economic recession
she is expected to continue his fight and provide new support for activists in the world’s most dangerous nation to be an environmental activist
“Marina Silva’s presidency would make Brazil an extremely robust and important global environmental leader,” said Steve Schwartzman of the Environmental Defense Fund
who knew Mendes and also worked with Silva
Brazilians go to the polls Sunday, and a second-round runoff is expected on October 26 between Silva and the incumbent, President Dilma Rousseff, who has recently lengthened her lead
Rousseff is an aggressive supporter of new roads and hydroelectric dams through the forest
while Silva wants stricter environmental oversight and support for renewable energy such as solar and wind
I flew into the tiny state capital of Rio Branco and connected with a friend researching Brazilian environmental policy—her excellent Portuguese made up for my language fumbles—and we took a three-hour taxi ride west over pot-holed roads to Mendes’s quaint little hometown
Acre’s landscape is still scarred by massive deforestation
Cattle pasture and farmland stretch to the horizon in every direction
and little forest was visible until we neared Xapuri
a protected area where Mendes woke early every morning to collect latex from rubber trees
still works on the reserve as a guide showing visitors how rubber tappers would walk the trails and tap the trees
Nilson told me his life was also threatened during the 1980s
when he and Marina Silva participated in Mendes’s so-called empates
when groups of armed rubber tappers would forcefully dismantle the camps of deforestation crews
“We were threatened because of having helped in the protests,” Nilson said as we walked the hard-packed jungle paths of Mendes’ old stomping grounds
“There were people pursuing me because of having helped Chico.”
Mendes had banded together Indigenous peoples with rubber tappers and other extrativistas—forest-dwellers who harvest sustainable products—into a recognized group that could vocally oppose deforestation and land grabbing
“That was a great advance,” said Philip Fearnside
a longtime researcher of the Amazon and friend of Mendes
“Now you had an alliance between the two groups with similar interests.”
but he was understatedly charming and diplomatic
skills recognized by international groups looking for a figurehead
several U.S.-based environmental groups flew the genial Brazilian to Washington DC to convince the Inter-American Development Bank
and Congress to support the creation of extractive reserves
and the exposure helped Mendes receive several big international awards that brought international scrutiny of deforestation in the Amazon—and later helped add pressure on the Brazilian government to find and prosecute Mendes’s killers
The memory of Mendes was strong back at the Seringal Cachoeira
I found an ambivalence toward Mendes and a chilling regard for his killers
It’s a cozy town with a collection of colorful food markets and stalls along the Rio Branco river
a winding tributary of the Amazon that once carried the region’s harvest of rubber down to the state capital and onward more than 1,000 miles northeast to the industrial hub of Manaus
and from there another 900 miles to the Atlantic Ocean
Mendes’s death is eerily retold in Xapuri at his old wood-paneled home—hardly more than a shack—preserved as it was the day he died
Bloodstains are still on the kitchen wall where the 44-year-old was shot
with signs describing the scene in the first person as if the ghost of Mendes is retelling his death
”I was coming close to the door and got shot in the chest,” reads one placard
and seem to have returned to Xapuri with a sense of defiance
The Alveses today shop at a general store operated by Francisco Ramalho de Souza
a participant in some of the first empates and a past president of the Rural Workers’ Union of Xapuri
I asked if there was any tension with the Alveses
Down the street from Mendes’s old house is the Hotel Veneza
The drab concrete building was also a refuge for the reporters and television crews who descended on Xapuri following his assassination
according to the 1990 book The Burning Season by The New York Times reporter Andrew Revkin
“the woman who ran the Veneza learned that Americans do not like heaps of sugar brewed directly into their coffee
She’s run the Hotel Veneza for more than four decades
and brews a super-sweet coffee for anyone staying at her pousada
but she wasn’t shy about telling me her opinion of Mendes
He lost his campaign for state representative in 1982 and later for town mayor because people didn’t like him
I asked Viana what she thought of the rancher Darli Alves and his family
But this was like going to Martin Luther King’s hometown and getting an earful about the civil rights activist’s extramarital affairs and alleged communist ties
mixed with sympathy toward his killers.
I waited all the next day for that meeting—but in the end
her son said he couldn’t get in touch with the Alveses after all
But why not simply go and knock on Alves’ front door
I hired a taxi for the trip back to Rio Branco
that I wanted to make a stop along the way
He looked at me in the rearview mirror and laughed
but da Cruz said his brother-in-law wasn’t home
He pointed left out the window at a closed gate to a dirt road through an open field: Alves’ ranch
I asked if Mendes ever came up in discussion at the family dinner table—and it’s a big table, so to speak, as Alves is said to have had some 30 children with numerous wives
“He says he didn’t kill Chico Mendes,” da Cruz told me
A local lawyer named Carlos Almeida was also traveling in our taxi
”Everybody has a different story to tell about his life,” Almeida said
But there’s a good image from people who know how to separate his life from his work.”
“I don’t know why so many Americans come to see Chico Mendes’ house
da Cruz back with an invitation to return to his brother-in-law’s ranch: Alves had said he would speak with me for a fee of $20,000
Perhaps: Who are you voting for on October 5
Marina Silva might not have been the oddest answer
but she’s also made a pro-agribusiness congressman her vice presidential candidate—perhaps showing something that she learned from Mendes about creating alliances
and also signaling a truce between environmentalists
that Brazil is big enough for the both of them
Among those people campaigning on Silva’s behalf
“Marina could change the narrative of Mendes,” said the sociologist Abranches
Stephen Kurczy is a special correspondent for Americas Quarterly
he was Brazil correspondent for Monitor Global Outlook
a business publication of The Christian Science Monitor
He also freelances for Fusion and has contributed to The New Yorker and VICE
Americas Quarterly (AQ) is the premier publication on politics
We are an independent publication of the Americas Society/Council of the Americas
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Brazil's government will hand out 9 million condoms for free around Rio de Janeiro during the Olympics in August
a push meant to encourage safe sex and also defend the Amazon rainforest
The raw material for the condoms is tapped at the Chico Mendes Extraction Reserve in Brazil's nothern Acre state where many are devotees of the rubber tapping "saint" Sao Joao do Guarani and make offerings to him in an annual ceremony
Rio's local Olympic organising committee said about 450,000 of the sustainably-produced condoms will be destined for athletes and staff housed in the Olympic Village
The rest will be made widely available to the many visitors who will be arriving in the city in just a few weeks
All the condoms to be distributed are produced by Natex
a factory in the western Amazonian state of Acre
deep in the rainforest near Brazil's border with Bolivia
uses latex gathered from Amazon rubber trees by tappers who are employed by a government-run program designed to protect their traditional livelihood
foster sustainable use of the rainforest and deter illegal loggers
The tappers see themselves as guardians of the rainforest
a 71-year-old lifelong rubber tapper with a stark white beard
gathered the milky-white latex dripping into metal buckets hooked at the base of countless trees
the tropical sun was filtered by the Amazon canopy
Barros spoke with pride about the fierce fight he and other sustainable rubber tappers wage to maintain their craft
aside from guaranteeing a fair price for the rubber
"It gives the world a product - the condom - that will be very present there in Rio
to fight disease and help with birth control."
tappers like Barros have been on the front line of pushing Brazilian leaders to do more to halt deforestation
which is mostly caused by the illegal clearing of forest for ranching
The fight has sometimes come at a heavy cost as farmers and loggers have sometimes retaliated with hired guns
Scores of people have been killed over the years trying to protect the forest
most notably the internationally known environmentalist and rubber tapper Chico Mendes
helped galvanise the government to take serious measures to battle deforestation and the violence against Amazon defenders
For several years Brazil's Health Ministry has distributed millions of condoms from the factory for free at big events around Brazil - most notably the annual bacchanal of Carnival
A devotee prays in front of a statue of Sao Joao do Guarani
The leg is an offering to Sao Joao do Guarani
A devotee walks on his knees around a chapel to make an offering to Sao Joao do Guarani
has worked as a rubber extractor since his childhood
Raimundo Mendes de Barros cuts a Seringueira rubber tree
A youth cuts a friend's hair outside his house
A house stands in the Chico Mendes Extraction Reserve
Por um futuro em que as pessoas vivam em harmonia com a natureza
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Heavy rain and the overflowing Acre River flooded wide areas of the city of Rio Branco
the capital of the state of Acre in Brazil
The city recorded 124.4 mm of rain in 24 hours to 23 March 2023
according to figures from Brazil’s Instituto Nacional de Meteorologia (INMET)
The Acre River at Rio Branco jumped from around 8 metres to 15.80 metres in 24 hours
Streets and homes were damaged across 10 neighbourhoods including Placas
Authorities helped to evacuate some residents who took refuge in school buildings in the Conquista neighbourhood
Flooding has continued in the city since then
with the Acre River rising to 16.96 metres
As many as 2,213 people have evacuated their homes
The river has also flooded areas in the municipalities of Assis Brasil
In Xapuri levels of the Acre River stood at 15.16 metres (flood level is 15 metres) and in Brasileia the river reached 13.62 metres (flood level is 11.40 metres)
flooding from the Acre River has affected almost 15,000 people
local authorities reported 433 displaced in Assis Brasil; 8,886 displaced in Brasileia; and 316 displaced in Xapuri
Flooding along the Acre river is also affecting areas of the Pando Department in Bolivia
which sits on the banks of the Acre opposite the city of Brasileia
Bolivia’s Ministry of Health reported at least 300 families have been affected or evacuated
Five shelters have been opened to accommodate those displaced
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was shot and killed in front of his family at his home in Acre
His assassination was the catalyst that sparked a much broader movement to protect the Amazon against rampant deforestation
The movement empowered a new generation of forest people and activists and would eventually culminate in millions of hectares of Amazon rainforest being set aside in reserves
But while the deforestation rate has plunged in the Brazilian Amazon since the Mendes’s murder
Violence against indigenous people and environmentalists in the Amazon is still rampant
while large landowners are still largely above the law
Deforestation in the Brazilian Amazon even crept up over the past year
Still there are encouraging signs in the Amazon and beyond that some of the key issues Mendes fought for are being more widely realized
For example in places ranging from Colombia to Indonesia
forest people are gaining rights to manage their traditional lands
while the world’s largest institutions and companies are now paying more than lip-service to concepts like environmental sustainability
Cutting down forests is no longer viewed a progress across most of the world
as noted by Steve Schwartzman of the Environmental Defense Fund
“Before Chico, people in Brazil, if they thought about it at all, thought that slashing and burning the Amazon forest was the price of progress,” wrote Schwartzman
who worked closely with Mendes in the mid to late 1980’s
not even the head of the agribusiness caucus of the Brazilian Congress – who fought very hard to relax legal restrictions on forest clearing – will say that Brazil needs to cut down more forest to grow
and the overwhelming majority thinks that deforestation has to stop.”
Martyr of the Amazon: The legacy of Chico Mendes
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“It would be worth it if an envoy from heaven came down and ensured that my death will be useful to strengthen our struggle
Public ceremonies and funerals will not save Amazonia”
he is a “Righteous of the Forest” for his commitment to defending trees and Indians of the Amazon forest
He is the Secretary General of the Brasiléia Rural Workers’ Union and fosters the creation of a union in Xapuri
He has turned Xapuri Câmara Municipal into a permanent assembly involving all political
social and religious components of the city
without receiving the support of official political groups
When violent repressions started of empates
labourers carrying out peaceful resistance
He took part in meetings leading to the birth of Partido dos Trabalhadores (PT
he was arrested again for the murder of a trade union leader of an opposing organisation
but the trial revealed the fabrication of prosecution
for which 40 Xapuri landowners were convicted
he led the first national congress of seringueros - workers who extract latex to manufacture natural rubber from Hevea brasiliensis trees in the Amazon Rainforest - which was to become the political and trade union reference for the claims of indigenous peoples of the Amazon forest
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are at the forefront in defense of the ecosystem
Natives who want to protect the lands of their ancestors
or activists who denounce abuses and illegal actions
The Peruvian activist who’s struggling against the Yanacocha
Pioneer of the fight against climate change
environmental activist and leader of the Indigenous peoples of Honduras
Protectress of the indigenous community and the forests of Cherán
The activist imprisoned for denouncing environmental crimes in Cambodia
defender of the indigenous peoples and the Amazon forest
The man who managed to mitigate the consequences of Chernobyl
Environmental activist and leader of the African-Colombian communities
Brazilian trade unionist killed for his work on behalf of Amazonian Indians
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the Brazilian government created the first extractive reserve in 1988
Among many other honours, Mendes was the 1987 recipient of the Global 500 Award of the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) for environmental activism in the face of immense social
In December 1988 he was shot and killed in front of his house in Xapuri
Fight for the Forest: Chico Mendes in His Own Words was first published posthumously
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was the second most deforested among the Legal Amazon Conservation Units in July
according to data from the Imazon Institute
With 30 square kilometers of native forest devasted
the reserve was created in 1990 and is home to around 3,000 families
The conservation unit is named after Chico Mendes
a rubber tapper leader and trade union leader murdered in 1988 for his struggle to preserve the Amazon rainforest
the coordinator of the Chico Mendes Committee and environmental leader's daughter
claims that the florest is under attack on a wide array of fronts
There is a bill on the National Congress that seeks to reduce the limits of the Chico Mendes Extractive Reserve by 222 square kilometers
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Raimundo Mendes de Barros prepares to cut a Seringueira rubber tree. (Reuters: Ricardo Moraes)
Link copiedShareShare articleAs Brazil's Government distributes 9 million condoms for free around Rio de Janeiro during the Olympics, a push to encourage safe sex will also help to protect the Amazon rainforest.
All of the condoms to be distributed are produced by a factory in the western Amazonian state of Acre, deep in the rainforest in Xapuri, near Brazil's border with Bolivia.
It is run by the Acre State Government and uses latex gathered from rubber trees by "tappers", also employed in a Government-run program designed to protect their traditional livelihood, foster the sustainable use of the rainforest and deter illegal loggers.
The tappers see themselves as guardians of the rainforest.
On a recent outing, Raimundo Mendes de Barros, a 71-year-old lifelong rubber tapper with a stark white beard, gathered the milky-white latex dripping into metal buckets hooked at the base of countless trees.
"It gives the world a product, the condom, that will be very present there in Rio to fight disease and help with birth control," he said.
Condoms are tested at a plant close to the source of the rubber in Xapuri. (Reuters: Ricardo Moraes)
For several years, Brazil's Health Ministry has distributed millions of condoms from the factory for free at big events around Brazil, most notably the annual bacchanal of Carnival.
And for decades, tappers like Mr Barros have been on the front line of pushing Brazilian leaders to do more to halt deforestation, which is mostly caused by the illegal clearing of forest for ranching, soy farms and timber extraction.
The fight has sometimes come at a heavy cost as farmers and loggers have sometimes retaliated with hired guns.
Scores of people have been killed over the years trying to protect the forest, most notably the internationally-known environmentalist and rubber tapper Chico Mendes.
His 1988 murder in Xapuri, where the condom factory now stands, helped galvanise the Government to take serious measures to battle deforestation and violence against the Amazon's defenders.
Mr Barros spoke with pride about the fierce fight he and other sustainable rubber tappers waged to maintain their craft.
Rio's local Olympic organising committee said about 450,000 of the sustainably-produced condoms will be destined for athletes and staff housed in the Olympic Village.
The rest will be made widely available to the many visitors who will be arriving in the city in just a few weeks, the Health Ministry said.
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