Petersburg and Moscow barrels through the threadbare town of Lyuban
When word gets out that the head of Russia’s state railway company — a close friend of President Vladimir V
the station’s employees line up on the platform standing at attention
saluting Russia’s modernization for the seconds it takes the train to fly through
blue-eyed stare as the train passed the town where he was born
with its pitted roads and crumbling buildings
having shut down his small computer repair business
Naperkovsky is leaving for another region in Russia
hoping it is not too late to start a new life in a more prosperous place
but his view boils down to this: “Gradually,” he said
This will not be apparent at next year’s Winter Olympics in Sochi
nor is it visible from the German-engineered high-speed train
It is along the highway between Moscow and St
Petersburg — a narrow 430-mile stretch of road that is a 12-hour trip by car — that one sees the great stretches of Russia so neglected by the state that they seem drawn backward in time
As the state’s hand recedes from the hinterlands
people are struggling with choices that belong to past centuries: to heat their homes with a wood stove
which must be fed by hand every three hours
When the road has so deteriorated that ambulances cannot reach their home
Naperkovsky is the kind of plain-spoken man’s man whom Russians would call a “muzhik.” He had something he wanted to pass on to Mr
who has led Russia during 13 years of political stability and economic expansion
“The people on the top do not know what is happening down here,” he said
There are places where wild boars roam abandoned villages
gorging themselves on the fruit of orchards planted by men
There are spots on this highway where it seems time has stopped
A former prison guard is spending his savings building wooden roadside chapels
explaining that “many souls” weigh on his conscience
A rescue worker from the nuclear meltdown at Chernobyl is waiting
for the apartment the Soviets promised him as a reward
selling tea to travelers from a row of samovars
A furor had erupted off a side street in Chudovo
where the road was dirt and the houses were built of scrap lumber
Her eyes and skin had the same honey-gold cast
and she was a head taller than most of the men in the village
At some point in the last year it had become clear that she was on the verge of becoming an unusual
was the reason her family had sped up the wedding
She looked like a neighborhood teenager hired to baby-sit the groom
It was unclear how they had produced a bloody sheet
brandished traditionally at Gypsy weddings to certify that her hymen had been broken
(“You can break it with your hands,” said his mother
the Education Ministry insisted that all children attend school
Forty percent of the children here do not study at all
Petersburg’s Memorial Anti-Discrimination Center
The vacuum has allowed the tradition of child marriage to come roaring back
women arrived to celebrate in crazy waves of color
The master of ceremonies gripped a battery-powered microphone
working the crowd into a delirium of gaiety
Opa!” The tiny groom sat in a chair in the corner
and their departure took place in a cascade of elaborate
interrupted only once by a woman who pulled a guest aside
and asked her to take one last look at the place she was leaving
The M10 highway looks normal enough at the southern limits of St
For the next 430 miles the surface of the highway
varies from corduroy to jaw-rattling patchwork
with few medians and frequently no lane markings at all
Traffic creeps forward behind a procession of 18-wheelers hauling goods from the port of St
passing villages with names like Cockroachville
It is the most heavily traveled cargo route in Russia
and yet for truck drivers complying with safety regulations
it takes 24 hours to travel between the two cities
vice president of the International Transport Academy
the dismal condition of the highway has made national news
about 10,000 vehicles got stuck in a traffic jam that extended more than 70 miles
trapping some drivers for three days in subzero temperatures
who heads a trade union of long-haul truck drivers
described his drivers that week as “not even angry any more
that year in and year out the same thing happens.”
It is not that the Russian Federation cannot manage public works projects — next year’s Olympic Games are expected to cost $50 billion
about three and a half times the cost of last year’s Summer Games in London
recently spearheaded construction of the world’s longest undersea pipeline
Putin will have been in charge for 18 years
Asked about the M10 during an interview last year
Putin faced in his first and second presidential terms
He reclaimed authority over the security services
He eliminated the popular election of governors
He wrested television back from private hands
He raised pensions and paid off Russia’s foreign debt
Peskov mentioned the staggering decline of Brezhnev-era infrastructure
his explanation had gone on for 28 sentences
“in these circumstances it was impossible to think about a road between Moscow and St
Set on an island in a mirror-like lake outside the city of Valdai was evidence
that someone had cared a great deal about fixing something
used by the Soviets to house tuberculosis patients
has undergone a swift and lustrous renovation
financed by a phalanx of state-connected companies like Sberbank
its tower the colors of roses and clotted cream
a tour guide shared the secret of the monastery’s rebirth: Mr
so it is within his line of sight,” said the tour guide
Yakovleva boasted that he visits frequently and spontaneously
taking such a granular interest that he is apt to approach builders to question why they are using that shade of paint
she described a magical scene of communion between “the sovereign,” as she called him
and his people: His helicopter flies so low that when tourists call out to him from the ground
Putin had made only a couple of official visits
The cleric’s restraint was understandable — church officials have repeatedly weathered tabloid rumors that Mr
Putin was secretly wed there to Alina Kabayeva
a drunken workman told extravagant tales of amenities he had glimpsed within its high concrete walls
like individual basins that would allow guests to bathe in honey and yogurt
if there is life outside the Moscow ring road
Putin’s motorcade to drive up the road now and then
if only to ensure that it is well maintained
If there is one thing that people in this part of the country crave from Mr
They are the people who make public requests to him for five hours on live television
in an annual ritual made for a modern-day czar
where collective farms once extended for miles in all directions
heading off the highway for more than a few miles is like leaving the known world
peonies the size of volleyballs swimming in the haze of midsummer
the woods are denser and harder to penetrate
Five miles west of the M10 lies the village of Pochinok
where the wilderness is slowly closing in around Nina Kolesnikova and her children
If once animals living in this forest learned to avoid humans
emerged from her house and found that her dog’s throat had been torn out
She could make out the tracks of three large wolves across the kitchen garden
“They have come to where the people are,” she said
Between the great cities are hundreds of disappearing settlements: towns becoming villages
The Soviets cut off support for them during efficiency drives in the 1960s and ’70s
which categorized villages as “promising” or “unpromising.”
But the death of a village is a slow process
calls them “black holes,” and estimates that they make up 70 to 80 percent of Russia’s northwest
sucking people and capital from the rest of the country
Those left behind are thrust into ever deeper isolation
Kolesnikova’s family bathes once a month now in bad weather
The road is so derelict that no strangers pass through — this much is evident from the rapt stares of her towheaded sons
she gave an answer that would resonate with any Russian: The air is clean
They gather berries and mushrooms in the summer
They produce their own cottage cheese and sour cream
when the mud was so deep that “we lived as if we were on an island,” she and her neighbors appealed to the local prosecutor
They argued that the state was obliged to keep the roads passable year-round
if only for the safety of the last souls who remain in this wood
someone important draws attention to the decay of small-town Russia
It plays out like this: A visiting dignitary will express public and sputtering rage at the city’s condition
a loyal member of his own political team — with a glare like an ice pick
The mayor will look at his shoes and remain silent
Moral responsibility is in that way transferred downward
among the most cherished in Russian political life
Most Russians live in housing built in the late Soviet period
A report released last year by the Russian Union of Engineers found that 20 percent of city dwellings lack hot water
12 percent have no central heating and 10 percent no indoor plumbing
explosions and heating breakdowns happen with increasing frequency
but in most places infrastructure is simply edging quietly toward collapse
There is a reason for this: Compared with populist steps like raising salaries and pensions
spending on infrastructure does little to shore up Mr
a sociologist at Moscow’s Independent Institute of Social Policy
the Kremlin can always fire a regional official
who stepped down two years ago after a dressing-down from the regional governor
General Ignatov no longer had any reason to speak diplomatically
The money available for repairing heat and water systems
“Twelve percent is only enough to patch the holes
You choose the most horrible hole out of all the big ones
so that people can simply survive the winter.” But the Kremlin
has insulated itself from the consequences
and what you see is that they are all thieves in the provinces
they don’t do anything and don’t want to,” he said
the former mayor quoted a line from Pushkin: “Russia will arise from her age-old sleep,” it goes
“and our names will be inscribed on the wreckage of despotism.”
but it was written 99 years before the October Revolution
A traveler who has reached the village of Chernaya Gryaz — the name means “Black Dirt” — can feel the suck of Moscow on his skin
So it was for the truck driver Aleksandr Chertkov who
cleareyed look of a Soviet monument to the workingman
Years spent on Russia’s highways have undermined his faith in just about everything
mostly shop workers recruited from provincial cities
who waver on high heels on the highway’s shoulder as 18-wheelers blow past
for televised police raids on prostitution — footage showing uniformed officers chasing women into birch groves
then shoving them out shamefaced to answer a cameraman’s questions
Chertkov rolled his eyes at this ritual: A few days pass
and the same women are out on the road again
They are a sight as permanent as the row of samovars selling tea to truck drivers
The road will kill your illusions that way
Consider the secondary roads that exist on maps but were never actually built
Chertkov’s rig at a dead end in farmland or deep forest
Consider the traffic police officers in Dagestan
Chertkov refused to pay a 3,000-ruble bribe (about $92)
twisted his arms behind his back and made him breathe into a funnel they had fashioned out of paper towels
“The Breathalyzer shows that you have been drinking,” he was told
something he imagines existed under Stalin
He feels envious when he drives through Belarus
where the police are too afraid to ask for bribes
The Russia he sees from the cab of his truck doesn’t suffer from a lack of freedom; it suffers from a lack of control
“There is no master in the house,” he said of Russia’s leaders
but it’s as if they live somewhere abroad and come here to work
enriching itself and epitomizing his complaints about the direction the country is taking
Chertkov washed the grease off his thick hands and hauled himself up into the cab of his truck and pulled away
as his rig merged with traffic from the airport
Maybe it was time to check out for a season
park his rig in his native village where people are simpler and more virtuous
Put his keys on the shelf and do nothing until the spring
But these were the idle thoughts of a man moving at full speed in the direction of the Kremlin
On the right he passed one of Russia’s largest shopping malls
and a high wall of housing blocks that are home to some 8,000 new arrivals
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dog experts of the State Border Guard Service visited the Center for Specialized Training of the Border Guard of the Republic of Poland
The visit took place within the framework of the PDP-V project “Strengthening the protection of EU borders through the development of dog training activities
reconstruction and modernization of the infrastructure of the Training Center in the city
co-financed from the budget of the Norwegian Financial Mechanism
in partnership with the State Fiscal Service
Ukrainian dog breeders acted as experts in the “II International Kennel Competitions” with the participation of border guards of Poland
during which they determined the best specialists with dogs in certain nominations
Ukrainian dog breeders exchanged experience with European colleagues on training dog trainers with service dogs and summed up the results of cooperation within the project
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sample photo / Аператыўнае камандаванне УСУ "Поўдзень" / Telegram
The Flagshtok (flagstaff) website writes that in the morning
in the Kastrychnitski district of the Homiel region
they saw and heard the flight of two Russian Shaheds
One of them may have fallen and exploded near the village of Zaazerye
Emergency Situations Ministry officers and specialists in the area
They are looking for the crash site," the publication quoted its source as saying
The monitoring group "Belaruski Hayun" confirms that a drone which entered Belarusian airspace at 8:40 a.m
yesterday crashed and exploded in the Kastrychnitski district
the drone fell between the town of Parychy and the village of Lyuban in the Homiel region
which is 55 km from the city of Babruisk and 120 km from the border with Ukraine," clarifies "Belaruski Hayun"
The Tg channel clarifies that the drone exploded during the fall
This confirms that the Russian drones flying over Belarus are not training or reconnaissance drones
They have ammunition and are intended for attacks on Ukraine's territory
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