visits his home village — once part of Poland
just months after the Soviet Union collapsed
Shimon Peres walked through a small town graveyard in Volozhon
searching for a tombstone with Hebrew writing on it in the newly independent state of Belarus
He was looking for the graves of his relatives
Like many members of Israel's founding generation
he was born in Eastern Europe and emigrated to the Middle East
The Cold War friction between the Soviet Union and Israel meant it was extremely difficult if not impossible to visit
It was a region that had served as a spiritual core for Jews of Central and Eastern Europe before it was all but decimated during World War II and the Holocaust
His family left in the 1930s to escape religious persecution and reached what was then known as Mandatory Palestine
His family's story mirrored my own family's — both sought religious freedom and a better life — and as a young reporter for The Moscow Times
I talked my way onto his private plane while he was visiting Moscow and sat next to him for the two-hour plan ride to Belarus
"I hope to find the place I was born," he told me
knocking on doors asking if people remembered his family
The entire town had been burnt to the ground
Any house he might have recognized was gone
Markers in Hebrew were in broken pieces on the ground
but he found one belonging to his great grandfather
He put on his yarmulke and solemnly said the Hebrew prayer for the dead
I took a picture of him saying the blessing and laying the traditional stone on the grave
and the picture was picked up by the Associated Press and ran in newspapers across the world
it was clear the visit had touched him deeply
He recalled his first encounter with anti-Semitism
when the local newspaper showed a picture of two Jews murdered in a nearby forest
"I understood for the first time that people were killed just because they were Jewish," he told me
But perhaps most moving for Peres was something he didn't find on his visit
"I wasn't prepared to find grass instead of a home," he said
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