Český Krumlov Back to topAttractionsMust-see attractionsČeský Krumlov State Castle
Český Krumlov's striking Renaissance castle
occupying a promontory high above the town
Egon Schiele Art Centrum
This excellent private gallery houses a small retrospective of the celebrated and controversial Viennese painter Egon Schiele (1890–1918)
Synagogue
Český Krumlov's renovated synagogue was built in neo-Romanesque style in 1909
The building survived the Nazi occupation in WWII and was used as a…
Graphite Mine
Don a hard hat and ride a clanking electric wagon through 2km of underground workings in Czechia's last graphite mine
Museum Fotoateliér Seidel
This photography museum presents a moving retrospective of the work of local photographers Josef Seidel and his son František
Castle Museum & Tower
this small museum and adjoining tower is an ideal option if you don't have the time or energy for a full castle tour…
Egon Schiele Garden Studio
This hillside house served as artist Egon Schiele's residence and studio in 1911
Marionette Museum
This is the better of two museums in town dedicated to puppetry and marionettes
It's a branch of the National Marionette Theatre in Prague and is housed…
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Cesky Krumlov, CZECH REPUBLIC -- As I watched a trio of schoolboys traverse the rocky hillside to improperly gain access to a walkway of Cesky Krumlov Castle
it dawned on me that boys over the past seven centuries had likely committed the same mischievous act
I shared the sentiment with a tour group companion
who shared that he was struck by the sheer number of people who had passed through the castle's walls and those who would come after us
Leave it to a 772-year-old castle to make one feel sentimental and romantic about strangers from lifetimes ago
We were part of an Emerald Cruises excursion to Cesky Krumlov
a 13th-century town that is home to just 13,000 people but attracts anywhere from 800,000 to 1 million visitors each year
overlooks this storybook town and its cobblestone streets
giving the sense that the community is frozen in time or plucked straight from a fairytale
The Vltava River cuts through Cesky Krumlov
making it easy to understand why the area has been inhabited since the Older Stone Age (that's 70,000 - 50,000 B.C.)
The serpentine river lends itself to the name of the town; Krumlov comes from the German "krumme aue," which translates as "crooked meadow."
Our group marched up the hill to the domineering castle and were treated with a sweeping view of the town once we reached the top
The weather was unseasonably cold (it had snowed the day before)
with streaks of golden sunshine streaming down on the terracotta roofs below
Our knowledgeable guide shared the history of the castle and town
The medieval town is not only a stunning and important piece of history but also provides visitors with a glimpse into what life looked like in its heyday
Here you'll find a courtyard painted with images of Roman gods circa 1575 from painter Gabriel de Blonde and a castle moat (cool!) with bears (yes
were shocked to discover that the moat was home to living bears
Our guide had mentioned the bears were deeply connected to the Rosenbergs
and were depicted on the family's coat of arms
Several of us were under the impression we would find bear statues at the castle
Then I noticed a sign: "Please do not feed the bears." I peered into the moat to see two brown bears in their enclosure
two of which were rescued as cubs after being illegally brought into the Czech Republic from Russia
The castle has a long tradition of bearkeeping
and the animals have called the moat home since 1707
the Czech National Heritage Institute has ordered that come 2030 the tradition must end due to welfare concerns
After observing one bear gnaw on a tree branch for a few minutes
our tour concluded and our group scattered
I joined two of my tour companions in exploring the old town
a bakery that makes Old Bohemian gingerbread using a 16th century recipe
I considered buying pressed gingerbread art for my gallery wall at home
but instead I opted for some jam to accompany a jar of honey I purchased the day before from a monastery
I meandered through the winding streets before settling on Travel Hostel for lunch
which was recommended by our guide for affordable Czech food
I'll eat mostly anything (except ketchup to the shock of many condiment lovers)
so I asked our server what he suggested and landed on "bramborovy knedlik plneny uzeninou a zeli," -- potato dumplings stuffed with smoked pork sausage atop caramelized cabbage
Our server said the meal would be best enjoyed with a beer
and although I initially declined since I don't care for the drink
I waffled on my decision and asked him to bring me "whatever." I couldn't tell you what I drank
and the atmosphere made the meal all the more pleasant
as evident by dining in a former horse stable that I had to duck to enter
Then I boarded the bus back to the Emerald Luna, where I finished my day happily ever after.
Czechs enjoy romantic river cruises with overnight camping and grilling around the campfire. But overtourism is overwhelming the World Heritage town of Cesky Krumlov.
2024: This video has the incorrect spelling of the name of rafting company owner Radek Stovicek
The newly renovated Summer House Bellarie in the Český Krumlov castle gardens have officially opened to the public today following a four-year restoration project
and a unique food lift mechanism dating back to its original use
With renovation costs nearing CZK 61 million
the project was primarily funded by the Czech Ministry of Culture
The renovation marks one of the most ambitious restoration efforts within the Český Krumlov castle complex in the past 35 years
"I believe that opening this rare rococo garden building
will enhance the UNESCO World Heritage site's appeal and attract both domestic and international tourists," Naďa Goryczková
General Director of the National Heritage Institute
The façade of the Summer House is adorned in a soft grey
complemented by white reliefs and ornamental details
while emerald green accents are seen on the window shutters and the decorative shingles of the roof
which features two ornamental vases—one containing a time capsule with messages for future generations
experts have painstakingly restored valuable rococo frescoes by artist František Jakub Prokyš that embellish the walls of the upper halls
The restoration also included the baroque kitchen and a room housing the "magic table" lift
which once transported food and beverages from the ground floor to the dining area above
Another highlight of the renovation is the artificial grotto
This enchanting space was adorned with plasterwork
approximately 800 of which were recreated using 3D printing and ceramics
offering visitors a glimpse into the opulent past of this historical site
Scheduled tours of the Summer House Bellarie have begun as of Sept
offering insights into the architecture and history of the building
as well as the evolution of the castle gardens and the grand festivities held there in the 18th century
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the town was built around a 13th-century castle with Gothic
It is an outstanding example of a small central European medieval town whose architectural heritage has remained intact thanks to its peaceful evolution over more than five centuries
cette ville a été édifiée autour d'un château du XIIIe siècle comportant des éléments gothiques
C'est un exemple exceptionnel de petite ville médiévale d'Europe centrale qui s'est développée paisiblement pendant cinq siècles
conservant ainsi un patrimoine architectural intact
شُيدت هذه المدينة على ضفاف نهر فلتافا حول قصر يرقى الى القرن الثالث عشر ويتضمن عناصر تنتمي الى الفن القوطي وفن عصر النهضة وفن الباروك
وتشكل المدينة مثالاُ فريداً للمدينة الصغيرة التي نشأت في أوروبا الوسطى في القرون الوسطى ونمت بهدوء طيلة خمسة قرون، مع حفاظها على تراث معماري لم يمس
这个城镇位于瓦尔塔瓦河(Vltava river)畔,围绕一座13世纪城堡而建。这座城堡融合了哥特式、文艺复兴式以及巴洛克式风格。这是中世纪中欧小城的杰出典范,经历五个多世纪的和平发展,其建筑古迹被原封不动地保留了下来。
Город на берегах реки Влтавы возник вокруг замка XIII в.
Это выдающийся пример небольшого средневекового центральноевропейского города
архитектурное наследие которого сохранилось благодаря мирному развитию в течение пяти столетий
esta ciudad se edificó en torno a un castillo del siglo XIII que posee elementos arquitectónicos de estilo gótico
Český Krumlov es un ejemplo de pequeña ciudad medieval de Europa Central único en su género
ya que su apacible desarrollo ha permitido conservar intacto su patrimonio por espacio de más de cinco siglos
The town of Český Krumlov is located in the South Bohemian Region of the Czech Republic
Situated on both banks of the Vltava (Moldau) river
the town was built below a magnificent castle founded in the 13th century
The river meander and rocky slopes of the castle hill are the most important elements which along with the link to the picturesque neighbouring landscape
determine not only the impressive urban composition of the historic centre but the dominating position of the castle as well
The Historic Centre of Český Krumlov is an outstanding example of a small Central European medieval town whose architectural heritage has remained intact thanks to its peaceful evolution over more than several centuries
a former centre of a large estate owned by powerful noble families who played an important role in the political
economic and cultural history of Central Europe
was founded in the Middle Ages and underwent Renaissance and Baroque transformations
which is typical of planned medieval towns
as well as many historic buildings including their details such as the roof shapes
the decoration of Renaissance and Baroque facades
It is dominated by the Gothic Hrádek with its round tower; this was subsequently converted into a Baroque residence with the addition of a garden
Latrán (settlement developed to the east) and the town proper contain undisturbed ensembles of burgher houses
and especially carved wooden Renaissance ceilings
Český Krumlov also experienced considerable ecclesiastical development illustrated by the major 15th century church of St
Vitus and monasteries of various preaching and itinerant orders
Criterion (iv): Český Krumlov is an outstanding example of a Central European small town dating from the Middle Ages which owes the structure and buildings of its historic core to its economic importance and relatively undisturbed organic development over some five centuries
Český Krumlov grew up within a meander of the Vltava River
which provides a natural setting of great beauty
Its evolution over time is evident with startling clarity from its buildings and its urban infrastructure
All key elements conveying the Outstanding Universal Value of this property are inside the boundaries of the property
The property includes the historic centre of the town including the former aristocratic residence with an extensive garden
The structure of the land use plan of the property and its buffer zone is stabilized
The visual integrity of the town is not threatened
the pressure to allow new construction beyond the boundaries of the buffer zone is a potential danger to the integrity of the property
The Historic Centre of Český Krumlov is a property of high authenticity
Its present form and appearance closely reflect the type of a town linked to the noble residence since the Middle Ages
The historic centre has preserved its original layout
as well as the characteristic castle-city relationship very clearly
thanks to its undisturbed development over several centuries
It remains untouched by the devastating effects of 19th-century industrialization
neglect during the communist era and thoughtless developments of the past decades
The high degree of authenticity is based on the dramatic setting of the urban townscape and its natural environment
as well as on a large number of preserved historic details
Restoration works on the facades of the buildings are carried out in compliance with strict international standards for heritage conservation
Only traditional materials and techniques are used
The Historic Centre of Český Krumlov is protected by Act No
20/1987 on State Heritage Preservation as amended
as an urban conservation area (urban heritage reservation according the Act)
The castle with the garden and a Parish church inside the historic centre are designated as national cultural heritage sites (under the Act mentioned above and under the relevant regulations); hence they enjoy the highest degree of legal protection
the historic centre includes several dozens of buildings that are designated as cultural heritage sites under the Act mentioned above
the protection of the buffer zone is strengthened by the fact that the Plešivec urban heritage zone is situated within its boundaries
The pressure to allow new construction in the buffer zone is regulated by the Act mentioned above and by the valid Land Use Plan
which stabilizes the functions of plots and areas within the whole town of Český Krumlov; that means property and its buffer zone
All specific details of building projects (new structures
their volumes and heights) are the subject of consideration by relevant authorities
The responsibility for the property management is shared by the National Heritage Institute (a state organization) and the Municipality of Český Krumlov
Due to the extent of the property and its complicated ownership structure
maintenance and restoration of the various properties are subject to individual programmes that are coherent with the Programme for the Regeneration of Urban Heritage Reservations and Zones
Phase 4 of the Management Plan has been prepared in 2012
representing an up-date of the E- Management Plan
The main purpose of the Management Plan is to preserve the Outstanding Universal Value of the property
the document has been planned to apply to both key elements of the Municipal Heritage Site
the castle complex and the historic center
Financial instruments for the conservation of the property mainly include grant schemes
funding through the programme of the Ministry of Culture of the Czech Republic allocated to the maintenance and conservation of the immovable cultural heritage and of areas under heritage preservation
as well as financial resources allocated from other public budgets
annual monitoring reports have been prepared at the national level to serve the World heritage property manager
the National Heritage Institute and other agencies involved
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Skyline of Brno city
The storybook mystique and historic beauty of Prague is well known, but there is more to Czechia – or the Czech Republic – for travelers with time to explore
Most visitors come to Prague and Czechia in summer (from June through August)
and just about everything a visitor might want to do is open
can get uncomfortably crowded during the high season
Add in the potential for a midsummer heat wave
and you have the ingredients for a less-than-optimal stay
we’d suggest traveling in spring or autumn
when the crowds are lighter and the temperatures are cooler
September and May are two of the best months to visit
offering pleasant weather and fewer tourists.
take note that January and February are the cheapest months to visit
due to the colder weather and lower occupancy rates
like castles and museums - particularly in smaller towns - shut from October to April.
For those looking to explore beyond the capital
a week to ten days is ideal for experiencing both Prague and the country’s scenic towns
a shorter visit of four to five days can still offer a solid introduction to Czechia’s highlights
September is the best month to travel when the weather is still warm
Average temperatures in Prague range from 17–22°C (63–72°F) in September
Mushroom pickers head to the woods in early fall
October is arguably the best time to hit the Czech Switzerland trails
as the forests take on a vibrant mix of reds
it’s important to be prepared for the possibility of an early winter in the higher-elevation areas like the Krkonoše and Jeseníky Mountains
where snowfall can arrive as early as late September
Early autumn often brings the season's first snowfall to mountainous parts of the country
with notable events like Czechia’s premier Znojmo Wine Festival in South Moravia and Pálavské vinobraní in Mikulov
both celebrating the regions’ long-standing winemaking traditions
held at the city's Výstaviště exhibition grounds
stands out as one of Prague's most popular food festivals
a city beer festival that takes place in October.
As autumn progresses, the season’s flavors take center stage. St. Martin's Day, on November 11, is a tradition marked by the arrival of young wine and a feast of roast goose, particularly in Moravian wine regions and Prague’s traditional restaurants. Český Krumlov has a lull in November
misty days enhance the town’s medieval charm
especially when strolling its winding streets or ducking into a cozy cafe.
Spring truly is a glorious season in Prague and around the country
Czechia's parks and gardens burst into life with pink and yellow blossoms
Daytime highs range from 10–15°C (50–59°F) in March
climbing to 16–22°C (61–72°F) by May.
One of the season’s more unusual traditions is Burning of the Witches (Pálení čarodějnic)
This centuries-old ritual has pagan origins and marks the transition from winter to spring
Communities across the country gather to light bonfires
symbolizing the burning away of winter’s darkness
large bonfires are lit in parks such as Ladronka and Kampa
drawing crowds for a lively night of celebration
The Prague Spring International Music Festival is the undisputed high point of the cultural calendar
opening with a rousing rendition of Má vlast (My Country) by Czech composer Bedřich Smetana
There’s also The Festival of Songs in Olomouc
when the trails are dry and the landscapes are lush and green
For those looking to enjoy the city’s emerging warmth
Karlín’s riverfront has become a hotspot for outdoor dining and drinks in the spring and summer
with Přístav 18600 being a favorite open-air spot along the river
spring in the Czech Republic offers the best of both worlds
Prices for lodging in Prague drop considerably during the colder months from November through March – except for the busy Christmas
Temperatures in Prague range from 0 to 7°C (32–45°F) in November
dropping to -5 to 3°C (23–37°F) in January and February
with Christmas markets starting in late November
Wandering Prague’s historic streets on a snowy winter Wednesday - with twinkling seasonal decorations
and cozy cafes offering respite from the cold - must be one of the most magical experiences in Czechia
The historic squares take on a romantic winter glow
and the Christmas market at the Church of Saint Ludmila in Vinohrady rivals the more famous one in Old Town Square with fewer crowds
While Czechia may not be the first place most think of when they are looking for a winter sports destination
this largely mountainous country has lots of under-the-radar snow fun
especially for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing.
The Krkonoše Mountains in North Bohemia are home to popular ski resorts like Špindlerův Mlýn
while quieter options include Klínovec in the Krušné Mountains
snowshoeing and winter hiking have grown in popularity
with well-maintained trails in the Jizerské Mountains
locals gather for ice hockey matches on frozen lakes
Temperatures range from 20–30°C (68–86°F) in Prague and other lowland areas
Prices for accommodation peak during this time
as visitors flock to the country’s biggest festivals and enjoy the extended daylight hours
The Karlovy Vary International Film Festival in July
draws filmmakers and movie lovers to the famous spa town in West Bohemia
Music lovers flock to South Bohemia for the month-long Český Krumlov International Music Festival in August
Riegrovka Live Music Festival fills Prague’s Riegrova Gardens with performances throughout the season
A favorite summertime activity among locals is to head to Slovanský ostrov
an island at the base of the National Theatre
and rent a pedal boat for some self-propelled fun on the Vltava
Beer lovers can soak up the season in Prague’s rival beer gardens – after chugging a few at Letná Beer Garden
visitors can check out its quieter cross-town counterpart at Rieger Gardens in Vinohrady. For a mix of culture and relaxation
along with a café housed in a former swimming pool hall
Summer is also ideal for exploring Prague’s hidden retreats, such as the Vyšehrad fortress, which offers picnic spots, dog-friendly green spaces, and stunning city views. Outside Prague, Mariánské Lázně's UNESCO-listed spa district is at its most vibrant in summer
and the famous Singing Fountain’s nightly water-and-light performances
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Prague & Czechia guidebook, published in June 2023.
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Czechia’s Christmas markets have been celebrated as the "most authentic" in Europe by British online newspaper The Independent
Next to some of the most popular markets in Europe
the paper highlights some of the Czech Republic's lesser-known alternatives off the tourist trail
in addition to the main attraction in Prague
In a travel feature charting a previous season's journey through Bohemia's Christmas markets
journalist Josie Clarke describes the enchanting festive atmosphere of markets in České Budějovice and Český Krumlov
emphasizing their festive charm and unique tradition
Clarke began her journey in České Budějovice
the South Bohemian city famed for the original Budweiser Budvar Brewery
The city's Christmas market is located in its historic Přemysl Otakar II Square
The market offers an intimate experience away from the tourist crowds
Snow-covered stalls brim with locally made goods
from handcrafted decorations to artisanal sausages and cheeses
Visitors can also enjoy skating on an ice rink set amidst the festive scene
or take a ride on a Ferris wheel or children's carousel
the Christmas market in České Budějovice runs from Nov
with a reduced version continuing through Jan
Stalls with food and gifts are open from 10 a.m
More info about the České Budějovice Christmas market can be found on its official website
elevates the holiday experience with its picturesque setting
Clarke described the town as “breathtaking,” with its snow-blanketed streets
Its Christmas market in Svornosti Square features traditional Czech crafts
and carols performed by local children’s choirs
Visitors can also join festive processions of angels or participate in workshops making holiday decorations
creating a uniquely interactive experience
The Český Krumlov Christmas market is open this year from Nov. 29 through Jan. 6, and runs daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Monday through Wednesday and 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. More info can be found at the official website
Clarke's tour of Bohemian Christmas markets concluded in Prague
where the city’s famed Christmas markets stand out for their scale and splendor
with its towering 24-meter Christmas tree draped in lights and ornaments
Visitors can ascend the Old Town Hall Tower for panoramic views of the glowing markets
a sight Clarke described as “spectacular.”
Wenceslas Square complements the festive offering with rows of stalls selling hand-blown glass baubles
and traditional Czech delicacies like carp soup
Read more about Prague's varied Christmas markets, including locations, opening times, and dates for the 2024 holiday season, in our detailed roundup here.
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Since the fall of communism in 1989, the Czech Republic – and its capital in particular – has evolved into one of Europe's most popular travel destinations.
Czechia Back to topAttractionsMust-see attractionsPrague Jewish Museum
This museum consists of six Jewish monuments clustered together in Josefov: the Maisel Synagogue; the Pinkas Synagogue; the Spanish Synagogue; the Klaus…
St Vitus Cathedral
Built over a time span of almost 600 years
St Vitus is one of the most richly endowed cathedrals in central Europe
Charles Bridge
Strolling across Charles Bridge is everybody’s favourite Prague activity
Strahov Library
Strahov Library is the largest monastic library in the country
with two magnificent baroque halls dating from the 17th and 18th centuries
Municipal House
Prague’s most exuberantly art-nouveau building is a labour of love
with every detail of its design and decoration carefully considered
National Monument
While this monument's massive functionalist structure has all the elegance of a nuclear power station
the interior is a spectacular extravaganza of…
Wenceslas Square
More a broad boulevard than a typical European city square
Wenceslas Square has witnessed a great deal of Czech history – a giant Mass was held here…
Prague Castle
towers and palaces dominate the city centre like a…
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Beyond CzechiaFor Explorers Everywhere
Beyond the serried apartment blocks of Prague's outer suburbs, the city gives way to the surprisingly green hinterland of Bohemia, a land of rolling hills, rich farmland and thick forests dotted with castles, chateaux and picturesque towns. Rural and rustic, yet mostly within two to three hours' drive of the capital, the Czech Republic's western province has for centuries provided an escape for generations of city-dwellers.
Bohemia Back to topAttractionsMust-see attractionsKonopiště Chateau
is famous for being dead – it was his assassination in Sarajevo in 1914 that sparked…
Sedlec Ossuary
When the Schwarzenbergs purchased Sedlec monastery (2.5km northeast of the town centre) in 1870 they allowed local woodcarver František Rint to get…
Český Krumlov State Castle
Karlštejn Castle
started life in 1348 as a hideaway for the crown jewels of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV
Pilsner Urquell Brewery
Plzeň's most popular attraction is the tour of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery
in operation since 1842 and arguably home to the world's best beer
Hluboká Chateau
Hluboká Chateau was built by Přemysl rulers in the 13th century and the building changed ownership several times until it landed in the hands of the…
Techmania Science Centre
interactive science centre where they can play with infrared cameras
magnets and many other instructive and fun…
Cathedral of St Barbara
Kutná Hora’s greatest monument is the Gothic Cathedral of St Barbara. Rivalling Prague’s St Vitus in size and magnificence, its soaring nave culminates in…
In Český Krumlov as well as Prague and other Czech cities
a wonderland of historic architecture and charm awaits
By now, just about every savvy traveler knows about the beauty and vitality of Prague. Yet fewer know that the rest of Czechia also enchants
and its capital is by no means the country’s only beautiful city
Český Krumlov and Karlovy Vary showcase stunning historic architecture
Protected areas like the Czech Switzerland National Park offer unexpected natural beauty
you’ll find offbeat attractions – like Kutná Hora’s bone church – that you won’t soon forget
it’s easy to get around Czechia to see it all
and a public transport network of trains and buses serves every corner of the country
The country is small enough that just about anywhere is within a few hour’s reach of Prague
Here are some of the best places to consider including on any Czechia itinerary
Planning tip: Book ahead to tour the UNESCO-listed Villa Tugendhat
a modern masterwork from 1930 designed by German architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe as a residence for a Jewish industrialist family
dedicated to the Austrian expressionist painter who maintained a studio here
Planning tip: The word is out on Český Krumlov’s unique charms and, as in Prague, the crowds pack in from May to September. Try to visit out of season, and book hotels and restaurants in advance. We recommend snagging a table at Krčma v Šatlavské
an atmospheric medieval cellar with a mouthwatering menu of grilled meats
Planning tip: The Czech Switzerland National Park is a good jumping-off spot for more hikes and dramatic rock formations. Not far from the national park, the Elbe Sandstone Rocks offer their own stone towers and dramatic views
Around these landmarks stand six mythological baroque fountains.
a ribbon of gardens along the fortress’s remnants
local wood carver František Rint fashioned this installation from the bones of some 40,000 victims of plague and war
creatively re-purposing them as garlands of skulls and femurs
Pyramids of stacked bones squat in the corner chapels
while crosses and chalices of bone adorn the altar
The effect is both disturbing and strangely beautiful
The town center is impossibly picturesque, its centerpiece castle rising dramatically from a rocky outcrop
Mikulov was also once the most important center of Jewish life and culture in Moravia: channel this legacy with a stroll along quiet Husova St
Planning tip: Mikulov is within easy reach of two UNESCO-protected noble estates. Mighty Lednice Chateau is visually stunning, with showpiece interiors and gardens adorned with noble architectural flexes. Valtice Chateau was seat of the noble Liechtenstein family, with its own sprawling gardens.
more than four million people visited Czech castles
and other sites managed by the National Institute of Monuments (NPÚ)
The numbers reveal a surge in visits to recently renovated and reopened properties that showcase lovingly restored historical and architectural spaces
While major landmarks like Český Krumlov and Karlštejn castles continue to draw large crowds
a growing audience is eager to explore the understated beauty of Czechia’s grandest fortresses and manors
“While traditional tourist destinations remained popular
newly opened spaces following renovations also drew significant interest,” said NPÚ
Czech castles’ primary visitor season doesn't begin until April 5
but some of these newly restored sites remain accessible year-round
Lednice Chateau attracted over 306,000 visitors last year
followed by the chateau and castle in Český Krumlov with nearly 225,000 visitors
Hluboká nad Vltavou Chateau drew 187,000 people
and Bouzov Castle welcomed 101,000 visitors
The properties experiencing the most significant visitor surge had something new to offer
Lysice experienced the most significant increase
rising to sixth place with over 91,000 visitors
marking a year-on-year increase of 642 percent
Interest was partly due to the reopening of the chateau garden after more than two years of renovation
Visitor numbers to Litomyšl Castle surged by 234 percent
This increase followed the opening of new interiors in June
and a new exhibition Why is a Castle a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Litomyšl Castle is a prime example of Italian Renaissance architecture
Built between 1568 and 1581 by Vratislav of Pernštejn
The castle’s pride is its 18th-century theater
reopened in July 2023 after a three-year renovation
Its visitor numbers increased by 164 percent last year
Known for its exceptional Moravian Renaissance architecture
the castle’s original interiors are remarkably well-preserved
Many of these interiors showcase the influence of Italian art on the region and its variations north of the Alps
The most impressive interior of Telč Chateau is the Golden Hall
which spans the entire wing of the Renaissance Northern Palace
also saw more visitors last year following the opening of newly renovated rooms in the east wing
part of the Žatec and Žatec Hop Landscape Monument
The Heritage Institute manages over a hundred buildings, including castles, chateaux, monasteries, churches, garden complexes, and villas. See NPÚ’s dedicated website for the opening days
and tours available at the castles featured here
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Behind its romantic medieval castle and pretty, cobbled lanes, this Czech town is getting creative when it comes to looking for new ways to make tourism work for everyone, finds Jenny Elliott
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“The name ‘Vltava’ comes from the old Germanic for ‘wild water’,” says tour guide Michal Pavlik
as he punts us along a languid meander in the river that carves through the Czech town of Cesky Krumlov
nodding towards a family of ducks gliding past
It’s then I realise I’m not only sitting alongside a skilled timber rafter but also an aficionado of another prized national pastime: deadpan joke delivery
As school parties and couples wobble about in canoes
I’m glad to be perched on a little bench atop a sturdy wooden craft
with time to survey the Gothic steeples and Renaissance facades that jostle above the craggy riverbanks
Not that timber rafting has always been the easy option
From the 11th century up until the arrival of the railways, the Vltava was the main route for transporting timber from the deep Bohemian forests to booming Prague
People spent the winter felling and then stripping towering trees by hand
these mighty columns were hauled to the river before being bound together with twigs and withe (flexible branches used for tying and binding) while currents bobbed and cajoled
“The boats were a maximum of six metres wide because they had to fit through the narrowest rapids,” says Pavlik
It took teams of rafters nearly a week to complete the treacherous
sometimes deadly journey in these trailing vessels; on many stretches
although Pavlik points out the transaction’s downside: “It was a long walk home.”
Read more on Czech Republic travel:
To fully induct me into the cultural heritage of this recently Unesco-listed mode of transport, we pitch up next to a pistachio-green pub, where a server passes down glasses of frothy Budvar beer produced in the nearby national brewery in Ceske Budejovice
I’ve also shown some sailing prowess: not a drop of beer lost
Concerns about overtourism are relatable to residents here
Unesco hailed Cesky Krumlov as an “outstanding example of a small central European medieval town” in 1992 and listed it as a World Heritage Site
It’s now often described as “Prague in miniature”
garnering popularity with large coach tours that whizz around as many as seven European Unesco sites in 10 days
Over dinner, I chat with English teacher Petra Lewis about the pros and cons of her hometown featuring on the tourist trail. She’s one of the volunteers who help run Prádelna
a multi-functional cultural hub within an old laundry building; it reopened in its current form in 2021 following a revamp
She knows this space is precious; like in many destinations
over the last decade or so the arrival of Airbnbs and international brands has raised rents and squeezed many locals out of the town centre
She also describes a “fast” tourism which had started to overwhelm the town in the years immediately before the Covid-19 pandemic
“Big tour groups would walk from one side to the other in half an hour,” she says
But Lewis is also aware of how tourism – when done right – can help bring about positive change
Our dinner venue – Krumlov Mill – is a case in point
local Marek Simon bought the 700-year-old former flour mill
rescuing it from decades of communist-era neglect
he used profits from tourism to bring the handsome building back to life; the mill now houses a Czech restaurant and three stylish self-catering apartments
And although the old waterwheel on the exterior makes for pretty photographs
Simon shows how he has installed two modern water turbines to harness the power of the Vltava as it flows through the building’s basement
The eco-friendly turbines not only make the building self-sufficient but contribute to the town’s energy supply
Simon is enthusiastic about the tangible benefits tourism brings
he hopes the pandemic may have resulted in a shift; he’s keen for visitors to slow down and get to know the town: “It would be good if people stayed two or three days.”
Keen to embrace this more sustainable, unhurried travel, I’m following this suggested length of stay. Although, as I set out towards the free-to-enter castle grounds the following day, I feel wary. Cesky Krumlov’s medieval fortress has a fairy-tale quality that Disneyland marketing teams can only dream of
and its Renaissance pastel-tinted tower acts as a particular beacon for visitors
I’m expecting to have to photobomb my way through
chasing distant figures through a series of silent passageways and sgraffito courtyards before reaching leafy gardens and panoramic views of terracotta rooftops
so I skip the castle tour and slip back into town for coffee
“You need to have a certain mindset to leave the main street,” says Petra Hanakova, explaining why her espresso bar Masná 130 retains a laidback community feel despite being moments from the town’s main thoroughfare
she quit her role as a university lecturer in Prague
returning to her hometown to renovate a tumbling-down late Gothic house built into Cesky Krumlov’s ancient fortifications
“The idea was it should be a place I would like to come,” she says
Masná 130 now serves ethically sourced coffee and homemade cake “like your grandmother would bake” to a mix of tourists and residents
Hanakova is keen to provide a reason for locals to return to the historic centre
and she uses the café’s position on a pedestrianised cobbled street to run alfresco concerts featuring local bands
And you don’t want to live in a theme park.”
I discover you don’t need to scratch very far below the picture-postcard veneer to find a strong
And you don’t want to live in a theme park
I walk through the pretty town park to Museum Fotoatelier Seidel
a time capsule Art Nouveau mansion once home to pioneering photographers Josef and František Seidel
Their archive captures the families and communities living in and around the Czech-German-Austrian borderland from the late 19th century
through the Nazi occupation and much of the communist era
I study the faces for tells of tumultuous lives behind the camera-ready smiles
Photographer and guide Lenka Stapankova asks if I’d like my own vintage-style portrait
she tells me how the museum gives her and other young local creatives and curators a chance to follow their passion without leaving their hometown
“We think this museum is like a parallel of Cesky Krumlov,” says Lenka
“There’s nowhere else quite like it in Europe.”
Later, I’m similarly smitten with the Egon Schiele Art Centrum, a brewery turned gallery named after the Austrian painter and protégé of Gustav Klimt. Seeing Schiele’s paintings of the town makes me curious to see the cherry-red studio where
I have one place I’m determined to visit this time around, though. On my last day, I meet Petra Lewis again to see an exhibition by Czech artist Petr Kubes at the community hub Prádelna
Inside is a beautiful mishmash of artworks
old hotel rugs and repurposed kitchen cupboards fashioned into a bar
“Everything here was given to us by locals,” Lewis explains
“Even little children came and helped scrape the walls.”
She tells me that when bands play, they get a good mix of residents and curious, passing tourists. The event programme – just like the interior – is curated collaboratively by the volunteers. And although the graffiti-daubed exterior may, at first glance, feel at odds with the town’s more pristine facades, in many ways, Prádelna sits at Cesky Krumlov’s heart: a space shaped by craftspeople and artists
“The community makes this space,” says Lewis
Take the train from London to Zurich (via the Eurostar to Paris). The 9.40pm sleeper train from Zurich arrives in Ceske Budejovice by 9am the following day. If time allows, explore this handsome town, or at least stop for coffee and kolache (a disc-shaped Czech pastry) at Kmen Coffee Roasters opposite the station
Local train services run regularly to Cesky Krumlov from here
The one daily direct train from Prague’s central station takes around 2.5 hours
Indirect trains (change at Ceske Budejovice) take about 3 hours
travel to Cesky Krumlov by coach from Prague or Vienna in around 2.5-3.5 hours
Monastery Garden Bistro & Rooms is a locally owned boutique hotel
Seasonal a la carte breakfast is served in the eat-in kitchen
where you’ll find glasses of free filtered water and an honesty bar
Krumlov Mill luxury apartments feature a sauna and hot tub
while units have their own fully equipped kitchens
Read more of our best Europe hotel reviews
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the ‘Prague-in-miniature’ that’s embracing responsible tourism","description":"Behind its romantic medieval castle and pretty
this Czech town is getting creative when it comes to looking for new ways to make tourism work for everyone
After stepping off the bus in Český Krumlov
we proceeded to our hotel through the town’s curving cobblestone roads
our hotel was just down the street from Český Krumlov Castle
some of us had a nice view of the castle from our windows
We were able to see several while looking for lunch and trying to figure out our way around town
Although the population of Český Krumlov is nowhere near Prague’s 1.2 million
its tiny streets can get crowded fast with all of the tourists attracted by the town’s charm
This is particularly the case when tourists travel in large packs to ensure safety in numbers
we met at the castle’s bear moat to begin a guided tour of the castle
These are the most recent additions to a guard service formed 305 years ago
when the castle was owned and inhabited by the Rosenberg family
The Rosenbergs thought they were related to the noble Orsini family of Italy
who had been disappointed not to see the bear at Konopiště Castle
After making up for several weeks without any bear-watching
In the second of the castle’s four courtyards (it’s the second-largest castle in the country)
Bryce filled us in on the paintings on most of the outer walls
Because the area couldn’t offer the natural resources needed for bricks
the people who built the castle did the next best thing: They painted all of the flat surfaces to look three-dimensional
The plaster these pictures are painted onto is still wet when they’re painted
so the paint soaks into the plaster and becomes part of the wall as the plaster dries
these frescoes can stay around for a long time
and people can cast their eyes upon the symbols of your wealth and nobility for centuries to come
Allison decided it would be a good time to tell Jiří that she had misplaced her key to our classroom in Prague
Marcos plotted an attempt to take over the castle for himself
we weren’t allowed to take pictures inside the castle
allowed to take pictures of things we could see from the castle’s windows
Here are some of the more interesting bits of information on the castle and life inside its walls:
we followed him through the town’s alleyways to our next destination
we reached a café with a courtyard that became our classroom
Although a light rain started to fall shortly thereafter
we were mostly kept dry under a canopy of beautiful fall leaves
Bryce filled us in on even more local history
Český Krumlov was scarcely touched by the destruction that was common elsewhere in Europe
It helped that the castle’s wealthy residents could pay off just about anyone with an interest in destroying the place
Four decades under Soviet Control after World War II didn’t help
the town has only become the hot tourist destination it is today in the last twenty years
Toward the end of our time at the restaurant
we were joined by an interesting character from Hungary
Although he mentioned at one point that he already had a wife
he wasn’t afraid to let all of the women in our group know that he appreciated their beauty
Michael stepped in to offer some assistance
He and our visitor soon knew each other as well as old friends
Before leaving for some unknown destination of his own
our new friend recommended many times that we
Satisfied to be in Český Krumlov for the time being
507-222-4000
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The Český Krumlov Castle is not your typical Czech castle. Not only is it more than 700 years old and gigantic (the second largest in Czechia)
it has long enjoyed the formidable protection of having several brown bears living in the moat surrounding the castle
The Český Krumlov castle was constructed in 1240 and passed down through the powerful Rosenberg family up through the 16th century
Bears have long been part of the family. It is believed that bears were first held at the castle starting in the second half of the 16th century
and they started living in the moat around 1707
Bears also make an appearance on the family's coat of arms
the early bears who made their home in the castle moat have died off
and new ones have been gifted or donated by aristocrats
there are four bears living in the protective moat between the castle's first and second courtyard
Vok and Kateřina are the older pair who had two cubs
(Their names were chosen by a national vote.) Sadly
But a new mate was introduced for Hubert
More recently the moat was reconstructed to meet the modern requirements of a comfortable environment for the animals there
There have also been efforts to make the enclosure appear to be part of the natural landscape of the Sumava Mountains situated south of the castle
where the bears had lived before being killed off in the 19th century
This is the only time of the year where visitors are allowed in the enclosure
children arrive bringing food for the bears to lay under trees
which the bear keeper sets up the day before
The keeper is careful to make sure the food is appropriate for the bears to eat
the bears are released and have a frenzy on delicious Christmas treats
Jan Černý also gives talks around the local area
this education might be needed elsewhere because a couple years ago
some American tourists tried to meet the bears face-to-face and ended up as you may expect: mauled
Despite the efforts to keep the bears happy and healthy
certain animal rights group criticize the practice of keeping bears in the Český Krumlov moat
They believe this tradition is not in the best interest of the animals and has devolved into a simple tourist attraction
Plus you are able to view the beautiful countryside of the Czech Republic
You can also take a bus from Prague which is a direct
Train is also an option which includes one transfer at České Budějovice
These historical landmarks stand as reminders of the evolution of animal care and conservation
The castle in the romantic landscape of Podyjí houses what may be Europe's largest collection of taxidermy dogs
The final resting place of a man who claimed that he could tame even the mightiest of bears
This reconstructed Norman castle is the world's most accurate
this pit housed a fully grown black bear for the entertainment of visitors
Today there is a sculpture in tribute to the poor creature
Strange rumors surround the artist who created these solemn metal guard dogs
The beloved beast's taxidermy remains sit in the Natural History Museum's cafe
A mountain path passes by several sprawling enclosures home to a pair of rescued brown bears
Hope Brotherton
A TINY town in Europe looks like it's been plucked from a fairytale
Český Krumlov in Czechia is not too far away from the Czech Republic's capital city, Prague
Its historical charm is abundantly clear throughout, with its Renaissance architecture harking back hundreds of years
And travel expert Maryanne Sparkes from European Waterways has explained why autumn might be the perfect time to visit the city
She said: "If you're searching for fairy-tale charm this Halloween
"This enchanting town
with its winding streets and medieval architecture
offers a Halloween experience that feels straight out of a storybook
Krumlov Tours operates a nighttime ghost tour where visitors will hear ghost stories while passing some of the city's best monuments like the Renaissance town hall, a gothic church and the castle courtyard.
There's also Český Krumlov Castle, an imposing building that towers over the city and dates back to the 13th century.
Nowadays, it is preserved with its original layout, structure, interior installations and architectural detail.
The castle has stunning views over the old town and provides a glimpse into what life would have been like for the Bohemian Aristocracy all those years ago
A unique baroque theatre is located inside the castle and is described as "the best preserved Baroque theatre in Europe"
The theatre still has its original building and with an orchestra pit
Because of its age, the theatre is only used twice for public shows, when an opera is performed by candlelight
Local businesses also host Halloween-themed events and activities like costume parties and pumpkin carving
The city becomes even more picturesque thanks to the vibrant autumn colours
If you don't have time to visit this autumn, the Czech city also comes into its own over summer during the annual Five-Petalled Rose festival
The celebration takes part in the weekend closest to the summer solstice
Period music is performed throughout the old town and historical sword fights can also be seen
Jugglers and jesters also perform, while jousting competitions and horsework displays also take place
or simply have something to eat and drink from the many market stalls while taking in the festivities
With pints in the town costing on average around £1.50
Linz Airport in Austria is the nearest airport to Český Krumlov
with train journeys between the two taking 70 minutes
Ryanair runs a direct service between London Stansted and Linz Airport
with return fares starting from £41 in December
direct buses run from Prague where return flights can be booked from the UK
A night for two in the town will set you back around £30
BelgiumOften referred to as the "Venice of the North"
Bruges is famed for its medieval architecture
The city's well-preserved buildings and picturesque scenery make it feel like something straight out of a storybook
GermanyThis quintessentially German town is a perfect example of a medieval walled city
Rothenburg ob der Tauber offers a glimpse into a bygone era and feels like a real-life fairytale setting
Colmar is renowned for its well-preserved old town
The city's colourful facades and charming architecture give it an almost magical quality
Earlier this year, the mayor of Prague revealed they want to crack down on pub tour crawls at night
Meanwhile, these six European holiday hotspots are yet to be discovered by Brits
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In many people's minds, The Czech Republic is simply Prague and some other places that they pretty much have no interest in seeing
Those people should promptly have a pot of lukewarm dumpling water poured over their head
There is so much more to the Czech Republic than Prague
And what did I find out about Cesky Krumlov when I was there
well I suppose I could wax poetic about how Cesky Krumlov is "a sleepy town whose medieval center is nestled within the bosom of the serpentine Vlatva River" or maybe spin the standard yawn-inducing yarn about how Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with something called "Baroque" inside of it and a handful of enchanting riverside cafes on its fringes
but when I look back on my four nights in Cesky Krumlov
the highlight for me was drinking a delicious nectar called "yeasty beer." Lots and lots of yeasty beer - so much that I still dream about it to this day
I'm just going to go ahead and talk about that
What's the story with this yeasty beer you ask
located right in the middle of Cesky Krumlov
Eggenberg dates back to the 1600s and is a point of pride for the entire town
Eggenberg's beer varieties are found in taps and at bottle shops all over Cesky Krumlov and the greater Czech Republic
but once their unfiltered yeasty lager was suggested to me by an intrepid bartender
I never strayed from ordering it the rest of my time in Cesky Krumlov
Eggenberg even claims on their website that due to the fact the beer is unfiltered
there's a myriad of vitamins and other "substances beneficial to the human organism."
You can't go wrong with something that's beneficial to the human organism
where's the best place in Cesky Krumlov to drink the yeasty brew
Eggenberg yeasty lager can be found all over town
but sipping it at the Eggenberg brewery itself is hands down the the best place to drink it
The Eggenberg Brewery offers the standard kitschy combination of a well-organized tour and beerhall serving traditional Czech food and their beer to the masses
But I've got a little insider tip for you: inside the brewery building is not the best place to drink beer at the brewery
you will find a little wooden shack laden with locals sipping fresh brewed suds riverside
Resembling the concession stand at your local youth sporting field
this shack has a few of the brewery's beers on tap
including the yeasty lager when it's fresh brewed
local life you just won't get inside the bustling brewery building and for a few Czech Korunas cheaper
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the hotel lobby was pretty quiet at that hour
or a taxi eerily seeking passengers in the wee hours of the morning
not many tourists in Český Krumlov are early risers
You can decide for yourself whether or not they’re missing out as a result
we proceeded through several of the castle’s courtyards to enjoy the the sunrise
From the place where we watched the sunrise
it was just a short walk uphill to the castle garden
One of the more notable features we found there was this building
With the first work on the site done in 1690
the building was originally a summer house for the royal family
it’s a stage used for professional plays in the garden
What really makes this outdoor theater unique
which has sat across from the older summer house since 1959
can revolve a full 360 degrees to let the audience watch scenes played out in other parts of the garden
Further to the back of the garden was a lake with a small island in the middle
there’s buried treasure on the island protected by water nymphs and dwarfs
one must see the treasure’s guardians and tell them a magic word
approached by a few ducks who probably thought we had food to share
we thought it would be best not to get in the boat
with our hands starting to go numb because of the cold morning air
we headed back to the garden’s entrance
On our way back to the hotel for breakfast
we were able to see the town a bit more clearly than we could an hour before
and we figured it was best not to wake them
After a bit of back-tracking through the town’s alleyways (recognize this arch from earlier?)…
somehow with enough manual dexterity left to keep taking pictures
After eating breakfast and letting feeling return to our fingers
which led us to Český Krumlov’s town square
The upper part of the structure in the middle of the square is a column finished in 1716 in memory of the town’s struggles with the plague from 1680 to 1682
Similar columns were built all over Europe in that era
and there was even one in Prague’s Old Town Square until it was torn down after Czechosolovakia declared independence in 1918
Beneath the column is a fountain built in 1844
a renowned photographer who captured the essence of life in and around Český Krumlov in the late 19th and early 20th centuries
Although electricity hadn’t made it to Český Krumlov yet when the house was built in 1905
the forward-thinking Seidel designed the place in anticipation of that and other technological advances
The photo studio still contains many of the cameras
and backdrops Seidel used when taking people’s portraits
For anyone interested in having their picture taken here
the studio is opened to the public several times each year
The attic is also where Seidel stored the skis and other outdoor equipment he used to get around while on photographic excursions in the mountains
Given that we were in a museum dedicated to photography
this picture didn’t take nearly as long to develop as did those taken in the early 20th century
The many roses in Seidel’s front yard also served as beautiful subjects
We then decided that our next stop would be the Church of Saint Vitus
not to be confused with the much larger Cathedral of Saint Vitus in Prague
and the tower could no longer be seen as well throughout town
These are some of the steps leading to Saint Vitus
getting to see more of the town’s architecture was certainly worth the inconvenience
After stopping inside the church for a while
After being very easily amused by a mirror maze and some fun house mirrors
we headed across the street to our second museum of the day
Named after and exhibiting the work of a controversial young artist who lived in Český Krumlov
the museum also displays the work of other modern artists
The most surprising find in the museum might have been the room featuring art by Gerald Scarfe. Readers who enjoyed childhood in the 1990s might like to thank Scarfe for his work as production designer on Disney’s Hercules. Older readers, though, might be more likely to recognize his slightly-less-family-friendly work on Pink Floyd’s The Wall. To learn more about the Egon Schiele Art Cente, click here
we found our way to a small island in the Vltava River
there was just enough time to take a few more pictures of Český Krumlov castle
where we met up with everyone else for our return to Prague
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Paddling along this scenic river is a summer ritual in Bohemia
This was the advice given by my Czech wife just before I set out for my Bohemian canoe trip – advice I remember only as I stand waist-deep in the water
and watching our belongings disappear down the river
is Czech and more athletic than me but also
a colossal waterway that snakes its way from the forests of southern Bohemia and through Prague before merging with the Elbe in the north
its waters awash with blue-and-white striped sailors in canoes
View image in fullscreenCanoeists capsized while tackling a weir
Photograph: Mark PickeringOur particular stretch is the favoured southern Bohemian part
Between Prague and the Austrian and German borders
it is laden with vast tracts of unspoilt woodland
innumerable fish ponds (where Czech Christmas carp has always been caught) and peppered with Renaissance chateaux
And then there’s the final destination – Český Krumlov
35km from our starting point at Vyšší Brod
This once-German stronghold is the jewel in southern Bohemia’s crown and the canoeing mecca of the Czech Republic
paddlers flock there in their thousands to have fun on the river
View image in fullscreenA floating bar serves a passing canoeist. Photograph: Mark PickeringAt the riverside, we hire a Canadian-style canoe and two plastic barrels to store our gear in (ingetour.cz
The rental guy warns us about the more dangerous weirs
“Place your more experienced paddler at the stern,” he says
you’ll spend your entire trip in a yellow submarine!” (The dominant canoe colour is yellow.)
We float through the corridor of lush trees
we even crack open a can of pilsner to celebrate
tins of lager casually wedged between our knees
View image in fullscreen‘A vibrant stream of craft laughing their way downstream.’ Photograph: Mark PickeringWe start calculating the value of the lost contents
two kindly men have plucked the barrels out upstream
We buy them an ice-cream to show our gratitude
and they tell us how to tie the barrels to the canoe
get out and inspect each weir before deciding to tackle it
We decide on a different plan – get out and carry our canoe round all of them
a vibrant stream of craft laughing their way downstream
with passersby all greeting one another with an affectionate cry of “Ahoj”
it’s a respite from city life – a sociable summer ritual
View image in fullscreenKemp Branná is the campsite at the halfway point of the route
Photograph: Mark Pickering“Canoeing is an amazing subculture,” says Ondřej Vach
who is doing the route with his wife and some mates
bottles of tuzemak (rum made from sugar beet) dangle in the water to keep cool
and larger groups link their boats together
with the outside canoeists steering while the rest imbibe in the sun
Having lost our entire alcohol supply to the weir
and refresh ourselves with two generous beakers of Cuba Libre
View image in fullscreenLukaš steers his course. Photograph: Mark PickeringAt 6pm, we moor at the route’s halfway point, a campsite called Kemp Branná (tent and two people £6)
a playground and – for the authentic experience – a giant 15-man tipi
špekáčky (chunky sausages) are barbecued and guitars strum Czech folk and Beatles songs
While the chef operatically warbles the meal numbers
campers down shots of zelená – a Czech take on crème de menthe – and Becherovka – a Jagermeister-style digestif
After polishing off a hearty plate of halušky – gnocchi with bacon and sheep’s cheese – we sample one of each
then sensibly turn in: we’ve over 15km of Vlatva to do tomorrow
The river skirts Český Krumlov’s old castle walls
drinking espresso and watching the boats come in
After tackling one last weir, we return our canoe to Ingetour’s rental shack and check into our rental apartment – a quaint wood-panelled place above the Muzeum Vltavinu (from £50 a night)
View image in fullscreenA view of the Český Krumlov castle walls from the river
Photograph: Mark PickeringTiny streets burrow through the terracotta-and-white centre
with cute cafes providing shade from the midday heat
The castle – a gorgeous Unesco-listed site constructed between the 14th and 19th centuries – is a higgledy-piggledy complex perched on a crag
The gothic-turned-Renaissance fortress at the top is a marvel
and tucked within the castle’s baroque gardens is a revolving theatre
Czech Republic — Combine fun on a meandering river
charming red-roofed medieval architecture and a security system featuring a live bear
and you've got this gem in the South Bohemian hills
designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992
is replete with striking views of the city's namesake castle and the Vltava River
most areas of the Old Town are no more than a few minutes from the water's edge
Outdoor enthusiasts who flock to the city for rafting and canoeing are rewarded with a mix of urban views and natural beauty. On our first day there, we decided to rent a raft right in the city center at Vltava Sport Service
but half-day and all-day excursions were also available
Prices range from 300 Czech korunas ($13.50) per person for the shorter raft trip to 800 korunas ($36) for a kayak on a longer excursion
Our 6-year-old daughter got a kick out of the man-made rapids as we sped downhill on one of the Vltava's weirs
where the river level changes from higher to lower
Be sure to steer toward the narrow lane of rapids at the side of the river
or you risk taking a much more abrupt descent and tumbling over a waterfall
except for getting snagged on some rocks in light rapids near the end of our journey
This added five minutes or so to our voyage — and some wet feet — but we were able to push the boat loose and continue on our way
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many wearing costumes: a boatful of Elvis impersonators
with gorgeous new vistas around each bend of the river
After we reached our destination at a campground outside the city center
a worker from the raft rental company was there to help us out of the water and give us a ride back to town
There's plenty to do on dry land in Český Krumlov as well
The city's historic center is one of the most picturesque spots in Europe
Renaissance and Baroque architecture and red roofs reminiscent of Prague
Svornosti Square is one of the city's main gathering spots
one of numerous such spots in Europe showcasing medieval pain-making devices
The cobblestone streets of the Old Town are nearly all pedestrianized
but cars on their way to and from hotels still try to squeeze through the streets amid the sea of people on a regular basis
and is worth taking into account as you plot a route to your hotel
Český Krumlov Castle towers high above the water
Among its most eye-catching features is Castle Tower
which first rose as a gothic structure in the 13th century before being remodeled in Renaissance style in 1591
the tower features layers decorated with green
you'll find a sublime 360-degree view of the city below
Admission to the tower comes as an add-on to a ticket to the castle museum
which features artifacts from throughout the castle's history
Its small movie theater plays entertaining silent films from the early 20th century that were filmed by members of the noble Schwarzenberg family
Even if you don't spring for the museum tickets
you can wander the castle grounds and see its most unusual attraction: the bear moat
bears have been kept in the moat since 1707
We only spotted one bear as we crossed the bridge into the castle and looked down into its zoo-like pit
you'll find stunning views across the Old Town
photographers stake out positions near the castle walls to capture images of the day's first rays illuminating Castle Tower and the spires of the city below
It's in early morning and evening that the city is most appealing
Many visitors to Český Krumlov are day-trippers from Prague
and the city takes on a calmer demeanor when they're not around
you'll be rewarded as the crowds vanish in the late afternoon and you have those cobblestone streets all to yourself
Hotel: We stayed at the Pension Meandr
The rooms are spacious and have great views
helping us park our car in the hotel's tiny parking lot and bringing us fresh breakfast each morning on the balcony
where our daughter enjoyed tossing bits of bread to the fish below
A playground on the opposite side of the river also kept her entertained
Outdoor fun: Vltava Sport Service offers a variety of boat rentals in journey lengths to fit every need
Save money: The Český Krumlov Card offers discounted admission to five museums, including the Castle Tower and museum at Český Krumlov Castle.
Travis Pinson is a freelance writer and contributing editor based in Germany.
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the architectural gems of the capital replicated across the country speaks the history of the Austro-Hungarian Empire
The Czech Republic’s charms are much more beyond the Astronomical Clock and the Charles Bridge in Prague
Tales of the past Bohemian and Austria-Hungarian Empire are hidden in the outskirt towns
Picturesque UNESCO World Heritage town Cesky Krumlov in the south with its castle and old town surrounded by the Vltava River offers a calm and peaceful scene of the beautiful history of the country
In the lesser-visited eastern province of Moravia
you’ll find Telc and Slavonice – the Czech Republic’s most perfectly-preserved mediaeval and renaissance towns
ramblers have plenty of options since the Czech Republic has over 600 protected natural areas with countless well-marked trails
many of which take in dramatic castles and attractive wooden churches
And after a hard day’s walk you’re never far away from a refreshing Czech beer
a bread bowl of goulash and a sweet roll of Trdelnik
Summer (June-August) has the highest temperatures
the heaviest rainfall and the most tourists
The months either side – May and September – are good times to visit as the weather is mild and the crowds fewer
though you’ll still pay high season prices
Festivals in the Czech Republic: The country’s biggest arts and music festival is the Prague Spring Festival starting from the end of May
Witches Night – a mixture of Halloween and Bonfire Night – is held on April 30
For jousting reenactments and other mediaeval shenanigans
head to the town of Cesky Krumlov for the Five-Petalled Rose Festival that takes place in June
Václav Havel Airport Prague (PRG) is 17km west of the city centre
trams and metro systems in major cities of the country are well-developed
An extensive railway network connects major cities and towns with comfortable rides
Renting a car is a popular option for exploring the Czech Republic
especially if you plan to visit smaller towns and rural areas
The Czech Republic is a low-risk country to visit
Head to gov.uk for more advice
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Some holiday destinations in Europe can be staggeringly expensive - think Monaco
the continent boasts 44 countries and territories
meaning there are trips on offer for every budget
If you’re looking for a European break which won’t break the bank
Interrail Pass provider Eurail has compiled a handy list of the continent’s top ten most affordable cities
Many of them are within reach of the others
so a multi-city trip is entirely possible - and not too expensive
Here’s everything you need to know before planning a wallet-friendly adventure
Sofia is far and away the most affordable destination in Europe for travellers on a budget
The Bulgarian capital can be explored for as little as €36.49 per day
the city is often overlooked by travellers
rich history and some of the cheapest food and drink in Europe
The Sofia Art Gallery is free to visit on the second and fourth Thursday of every month and many other attractions, including the National Museum of History and the UNESCO-recognised Boyana Church
also offer free entry several days a month
there’s a direct train from Sofia to Bucharest - which happens to be the second cheapest city in Europe
Known as ‘Little Paris’, due to its proliferation of French-inspired architecture and broad boulevards, the Romanian capital is famous for its buzzing cultural scene
Must-visits include the Palace of the Parliament
just as impressive from the outside and free to gaze at
Art lovers shouldn’t miss the mind-blowing graffiti at the Garajul Ciclop garage
A well-budgeted day here can cost as little as €38.67
and there are plenty of hostel rooms available for under €10 a night
Budapest is constantly growing in popularity
thanks to its spa culture and fascinating history
with the average daily cost on a budget just €43.48
While entry prices to the famous thermal spas can add up, there are countless free or cheap activities to do instead in the Hungarian capital
which is made up of two distinct parts - Buda and Pest - separated by the Danube
Visitors shouldn’t miss a trip to one of many ruin bars housed in abandoned buildings, or tasting the incredibly potent Unicum liqueur
no trip is complete without a visit to the Fisherman’s Bastion
Built in the 19th century to serve as a lookout tower
it’s now world famous for offering some of the best panoramic views of the city
Entry to the popular National Gallery and picturesque Buda Castle is affordable
Costing €43.48 on average for a budget day, Krakow is only a few cents more expensive than Budapest - but has plenty to offer
this Polish city is home to some of the best parks - like Park Krakowski
designed in Viennese style - and nightlife in all of Europe
is full to the brim with affordable cafes and bars
as well as shops to pick up a perfect souvenir
the Krakow Nights Festival - Krakowskie Noce - puts on free concerts and
Krakow acts as an ideal base to visit Auschwitz and learn more about the devastating period in European history
Sarajevo
is an example of the melting pot the continent truly is
One of few major European cities to have a mosque
Eastern Orthodox church and synagogue within the same neighbourhood
it has an east-meets-west vibe and offers countless diversions
the Bosnia-Herzegovinan capital costs €45.67 for an average day on a budget
As well as offering free entry to many of the city’s religious buildings, a stroll around the Old Bazaar - Baščaršija is a must. Sarajevo is incredibly walkable and, with low prices for food, drink and accommodation, easily provides a trip affordable to those on the tightest budget
with an average daily cost on a budget of €46.62
Just walking around the Serbian capital is an experience in itself
thanks to its intact 18th-century fortress
There’s often live entertainment and street music on Skadarlija Street in the city’s vibrant Bohemian quarter
including Serbian delicacies such as sarma
a mix of ground pork or beef with rice rolled in leaves of cabbage
an egg and cheese pie made with filo pastry
The city pays tribute everywhere to Nikola Tesla, the most famous export, and a visit to the Nikola Tesla Museum costs around €6. When you’ve had your cultural fill, head to the Danube river, which is home to seemingly endless amounts of floating bars
You’ll soon realise why Serbia’s nightlife has been touted as the best in the Balkans
you can take a night train to Zagreb - the next cheapest place on this list
€51.41 is all a full-on day in Zagreb will set you back if you’re on a budget
Croatia’s capital is a bustling destination - and it’s easy to see why it’s so popular. Offering some of the cheapest beer in Europe, public transport is also very well-priced
There’s also no admission fee to enter Zagreb Cathedral and popular museums such as the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Museum of Illusions cost just a few Euros to visit
Tkalčićeva Street is a must-visit for low-priced cafes and the Museum of Broken Relationships
As much of Europe sees tourist taxes shooting up to combat overtourism
with its own tax just €1 a day - meaning you don’t have to worry about it adding too much to your budget
The Polish capital is another affordable option for a European break
with the average daily cost coming in at €52.30
Warsaw is one of the most walkable cities on the continent
such as the Old Town and the street art in the edgy Praga neighbourhood
offers free admission on Mondays - and you can also cross the Vistula River on a free ferry
Milk bars are one of the city’s most famous offerings - and for good reason
These traditional cafes are popular with locals and tourists alike - and are affordable for everyone
cabbage rolls perfect for warming up after a chilly walk around this pretty city
Bratislava has a privileged position in Europe, sandwiched between Vienna and Budapest
but it’s far less well known than those two cities
the Slovakian capital is significantly more affordable
The popular Slovakian National Museum offers free entry and the Transport Museum costs nothing to enter every first Wednesday of the month
Tyršák Beach is a place you have to see to believe
with sandy floors and volleyball matches on the banks of the Danube
is pedestrian-only and well known for its lively - and affordable - bars and cafes
While entry to the reconstructed Bratislava Castle does cost €14
it’s also pretty impressive from the outside
thanks to its position perched on top of a hill of the Little Carpathians mountains
and your mind will likely go straight to Prague
is home to tonnes of exciting cities - including Český Krumlov
The average daily cost on a budget to visit the destination in the south east is €69.99
Český Krumlov is one of the most picturesque places in the South Bohemia region
and its colourful historical centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage site for over 30 years
With its cobblestone streets and mediaeval architecture, this city is often referred to as being like a fairytale - but
Take a free walking tour to get your bearings then head to St
Vitus Church on the banks of the Vltava River
An important late-Gothic monument, the beautiful building is an important part of Czech history
having been declared a National Cultural Monument of the Czech Republic in 1995
Before heading home - or onto another affordable destination - make sure to try traditional Vepřo Knedlo Zelo
it’s the ideal dish to warm after you’ve explored the city
The town — which sits along the banks of the Vltava river — dates back to the Middle Ages
and much of its original architecture still stands intact today
According to UNESCO, Český Krumlov was built around a castle whose existence was first documented in 1253
The castle is open to visitors today year round
The best way to see the castle is to book a guided tour
which will grant you access to more parts of the castle than if you were exploring on your own.
And be prepared to set aside some time for the tour; it has courtyards
and ornate rooms filled with old artifacts
The walls are covered in mirrors and detailed paintings that depict characters from centuries ago dressed in colorful clothing
Soon after the castle was built in Český Krumlov
settlements sprung up to the east in a part of the town that's known as Latrán
and across the river around a central square. These two parts of town are now UNESCO Heritage Sites
these structures are works of art with colored facades and carved wooden ceilings
The Museum Fotoatelier is the former studio of photographers Josef and Frantisek Seidel
and the Egon Schiele Art Center is home to many of Egon Schiele's paintings — a painter who worked under Gustav Klimt
The Regional Museum is better for history buffs as it tells the story of Český Krumlov throughout the years
History buffs will also enjoy the Church of St. Vitus
The church's tower rivals that of the castle's
and the intricate alters and towering arched ceilings are both impressive and stunning
There's both a trail and a chair lift (so you don't have to hike there and back)
along with a restaurant at the top and rewarding views of the town below
Czech Republic — Centuries of history have earned this Czech town a designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site
tucked into a horseshoe bend on the Vltava River
an enormous castle and a nearby national park
But here’s something Cesky Krumlov has that you don’t find in most historic cities: live bears in the dry moat surrounding the castle
And visiting the town of Cesky Krumlov this year offers an extra benefit: It’s the year of the Rosenbergs
who reigned over southern Bohemia for around 400 years
and special exhibitions and events are planned all year to honor the family
The castle is one of those Rosenberg sites
A huge two-story arched bridge connects parts of it with Baroque gardens
But there is no water in the moat surrounding the place to keep away advancing enemy hordes
Legend has it that they were given to the Rosenberg family because of their relationship with the Italian Orsini family
the Rosenbergs adopted the animals as shield-bearers on their coat of arms
Today the moat bears are a much-loved part of the community
The animals get their own birthday parties and a big Christmas Eve Bear festival where children bring presents and food for them
the castle is well-preserved and restored with period furnishings
and ornately painted and carved ceilings and walls
From the castle I made my way down into the town’s historic center
Cesky Krumlov was built in the late 13th century and most of the architecture in the older part of town dates from the 14th through 17th centuries
through the archways and along side the shops
and restaurants takes you back to those centuries where Gothic
Renaissance and Baroque styles blend with the Medieval
you’ll find red-roofed buildings and pedestrians shopping
One of the most interesting places is a Baroque theater that dates back to the late 1600s
It has its original wall and ceiling murals
props and ancient machinery used for complicated scene changes
This is still a working theater that’s open to the public from May until the end of October
Outside the buildings are courtyards decorated with more murals and frescos
and faux stones painted with such good perspective and depth that you’d swear they were real
The historic area fell into disrepair during the communist era of Czechoslovakia
but restoration and preservation work in recent years has earned it acclaim
National Geographic calls it “one of the most beautiful historic destinations in the world.”
Here and there you’ll find a touch of modern whimsy
I saw one small doorway in a courtyard blocked off with red and gray sculpted fingers topped by rope
It showed a great sense of humor and a blending of old and new that somehow made history seem more alive
But not everyone comes to the area just to soak up history
For some it’s about the beautiful natural surroundings
near the Czech borders with Germany and Austria is set amid forests
In the winter it offers both downhill and cross country skiing
When the weather is warmer there’s boating
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buy traditional handicrafts and listen to carol singing on a visit to one of these magical Christmas markets in Czechia…
Prague is easily one of Europe’s most popular cities during the Christmas season
Many now travel to the cobblestone streets of its fairytale Old Town to seek out festive fun leading up to – and beyond – Christmas
In the Old Town Square is the capital’s most visited market
with red-roofed stalls selling everything from Christmas decorations to warm delicious snacks
you can pick up traditional hand-blown and hand-painted glass ornaments as a souvenir or gift
and tuck into a cylindrical-shaped trdelnik
a sweet pastry covered in sugar and almonds
and nicknamed ‘Chimney cake’ by the English
It can get overcrowded in the historic centre
so do consider exploring the city’s alternative Christmas markets
or a visit to Prague Caste will see the square beneath St
George’s Basilica also sparkle with a selection of Christmas market stalls
Market dates: 30 November 2024 – 6 January 2025
More information: visitczechia.com
if you’ve ever come across Plzeň (also known as Pilsen)
you’ve probably heard of its reputation for brewing bottom-fermented beer
those wanting a Christmas tipple can’t miss out on an Advent walk to the Purkmistr Brewery in the Pilsen-Černice neighbourhood
Back in the city’s main Republic Square is where the market magic happens
more than 100 market stalls pop up selling a host of traditional products
an important part of Czech Christmas history
blacksmith and weaving loom workshops offer a fascinating insight into how these craft items have been made for centuries
Don’t miss the market’s impressive nativity scene
Also spend some time wandering St Bartholomew’s Cathedral
which has recently reopened following an extensive reconstruction
Market dates: 22 November – 23 December 2024
More information: visitpilsen.eu
Czechia’s second largest city certainly delivers in Christmas cheer
but remains a quieter affair than a visit to Prague’s markets
There are four main squares in the city centre – Freedom Square
Moravian Square and Dominican Square – with each one producing a unique and magical festive atmospheres
Freedom Square is where most people gather for socialising at the Winter Bar which sells local Brno drinks
and it’s also where you’ll find a large Christmas tree in the exact same position the first public Czech Christmas tree was placed in 1924
Dominican Square has a large life-size nativity scene
with the figurines carved from wood by a local craftsman
And Vegetable Market is one of the city’s most picturesque spots to take in Christmas splendour
selling local crafts and sweet treats to keep you satisfied as you wander this scenic city of cobbled streets and Gothic spires
More information: gotobrno.cz
is a city with much more than a Christmas market on offer
Ostrava has geared up once again to produce a busy Christmas calendar to keep you entertained
with performances of Czech carols and traditional dulcimer music taking place on its main stage (out of five stages in total)
where dozens of charming stalls will be set up selling local crafts
There will also be food stalls celebrating Moravian delicacies and local cheeses – all perfect gifts for popping under the Christmas tree
Market dates: 26 November 2024 – 2 January 2025
More information: ostravskevanoce.cz
If you needed anymore reason to visit the fairytale region of Český Krumlov
then its Christmas market will be sure to win you over
Český Krumlov is dotted with historic towns and castles
But its main UNESCO-listed town of the same name is where you can attend its festive market and enjoy its cultural weekend programs
you can get hands on with craft workshops making Christmas decorations and ornaments
Other parts of the cultural weekends include Czech musical performances and a procession of Český Krumlov angels who will parade through the town – any visitors in angel costumes are welcome to join them
The small yet bustling Christmas market is of course another bonus of visiting the town
you can grab a glass of svarak (mulled wine) and a crispy cinnamon trdelnik and browse its delightful traditional trinkets for sale
Market dates: 29 November 2024 – 6 January 2025
More information: ckrumlov.info
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We’d slept at Frankfurt station when we’d accidentally found ourselves in Germany rather than Luxembourg
We’d spent a night wandering the streets in Regensburg when we’d missed the youth hostel curfew
And we’d made ourselves comfortable on a platform somewhere near the German-Czechia border when our train never came
we arrived in the little Czech town around midnight with our packs on our backs
four 18-year-old girls wandering the empty cobblestone streets like long-legged snails
We were on the verge of finding a quiet spot in the square to sleep when a woman answered her door
a pretty room with exposed wooden beams and patchwork quilts
I blinked as my eyes adjusted to the most beautiful sight I had ever seen
View of the medieval town of Cesky Krumlov in South Bohemia region
It was lined by fairytale cottages in reds and yellows
so we stayed in that little room for the best part of a week
riding rubber tubes around the river’s U-bend by day and having picnics on the river’s banks by night
That moment on the balcony captured the spirit of my European summer of 1995
struggling under the pressure of the HSC and then juggling multiple jobs to save for our gap year adventure
we were butterflies emerging from the chrysalis
gaping in wonder and intoxicated by our new freedom
Eastern Europe had only emerged from communist rule six years earlier
could only hope we’d check in with the occasional reverse-charge phone call
Those wildly expensive calls were short; enough time for an “I’m OK
I love you” (and the odd request for money)
not enough for a rundown of the nights spent at train stations
Jordan Baker (right) on a guest house balcony in Cesky Krumlov during the European summer of 1995
swam in fountains and snuck into Roman ruins at midnight
We practised handling ourselves in tricky situations
We read the books other travellers gave us
We embraced everything around us with the confidence of the naive
I realised how much I loved meeting people and hearing their stories
That’s when I decided to become a journalist
I can still remember the thrill of that morning on the balcony
the thrill of discovery that ran through that whole trip
I’ve made good and bad decisions and dealt with challenges that have tested me far more than a missed train or lost passport
I’ve never quite recaptured that first thrill
But I am still fuelled by the same curiosity
by the same joy of discovery as I felt during that European summer
which led me to one of the best decisions of my life
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We\\u2019d slept at Frankfurt station when we\\u2019d accidentally found ourselves in Germany rather than Luxembourg
We\\u2019d spent a night wandering the streets in Regensburg when we\\u2019d missed the youth hostel curfew
And we\\u2019d made ourselves comfortable on a platform somewhere near the German-Czechia border when our train never came
riding rubber tubes around the river\\u2019s U-bend by day and having picnics on the river\\u2019s banks by night
could only hope we\\u2019d check in with the occasional reverse-charge phone call
Those wildly expensive calls were short; enough time for an \\u201CI\\u2019m OK
I love you\\u201D (and the odd request for money)
That\\u2019s when I decided to become a journalist
I\\u2019ve heard \\u2013 and told \\u2013 many stories
I\\u2019ve made good and bad decisions and dealt with challenges that have tested me far more than a missed train or lost passport
I\\u2019ve never quite recaptured that first thrill
Start the day with a summary of the day\\u2019s most important and interesting stories
Their journey will not be a simple undertaking by any means
It will involve a road trip from Czechia to France
overnight camping at various spots along the Seine and around 400 kilometres of paddling
assembled from the club SK Vltava Český Krumlov
plans to begin their trip on 27 July from Vaurois
While their route may differ in various ways from the journey completed by Ráth in 1924
the group hopes to capture the spirit of Ráth’s mission
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If Hollywood ever made a Czech version of Forrest Gump
they could certainly base it on the life of Emerich Ráth
Born to German parents in present-day Czechia
Ráth first gained notoriety for his pursuits in military race walking
It was a brutal event that saw competitors don 31 kilograms of equipment and walk a distance of 50 kilometres
His success in the discipline was well publicised due to the fact he was vegetarian and refrained from smoking or drinking
practicing all sorts of sports and physical activities
He returned home from both editions without a medal
but continued to promote a healthy lifestyle
he returned home to run the sporting goods store he operated in Prague
Picture by IOCPierre de Coubertin smiling for a photograph in the 1920s wearing a suit
The legend of Emerich Ráth didn’t lose its luster after Paris 1924
One chapter of the Czech athlete’s life was immortalised on film
Ráth entered a 50km cross-country skiing race
The pleasant weather at the start line took a turn for the worse after the race began
the lightly dressed skiers were confronted by a blizzard
a skier named Bohumil Hanč continued on course
He found him and attempted to drag him to safety
the task proved too great and Ráth left him to find help
While the tragic incident reportedly haunted Ráth
A character that once again presented itself during World War 2 when Ráth helped hide Jewish refugees
that inspired Czech paddlers to repeat his journey down the Seine in celebration of Paris 2024
“As we have started to learn more about Emerich Ráth
we found out that he is a great person but is not globally famous,’ noted SK Vltava Český Krumlov Chairman Tomáš Palouda
“We want to try to put him in people’s minds as I think his life and his work were amazing and we want to commemorate what he did for our sport.”
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Spectators will be able to catch the ceremony from the river banks
as athletes travel down the river by boat during what promises to be a unique and revolutionary event
but that won’t be the last time the Seine takes centre stage at Paris 2024
as well as the road cycling individual time trials during Paris 2024
It will be a stunning venue along the main artery of Paris
Lassoed by its river and dominated by its castle
this fairy-tale town of 15,000 is buried in the hills of the southern Czech Republic
an area much appreciated for its pastoral countryside
Tucked into a hairpin bend in the Vltava River
In the 16th century — the town's Golden Age — Cesky Krumlov hosted artists
scientists and alchemists from all over Europe
visitors set their sights on the mighty castle of the Rozmberk family
who ran the city from this perch for three centuries
which you can only visit on a one-hour escorted tour
gives a glimpse of the ultimate in Bohemian noble living through the ages
was built to guard the medieval river crossing
Bear pits hold a family of European brown bears
as they have since the Rozmberks added these animals to their coat of arms in the 16th century
A 2,300-foot-long garden boasts a mix of French and English styles
The castle's highlight is the Baroque Theater
where guests of the noble family would go for evening entertainment
A guided tour takes visitors under the stage to see the wood-and-rope contraptions that enabled scenes to be scooted in and out within seconds while fireworks and smoke hid the action from the audience
Machines were used to simulate a horrifying wind
But the use of candles and pyrotechnics for special effects took their toll
Europe once had several hundred Baroque theaters
Cesky Krumlov's theater is one of only two that survives in good shape and is open to tourists (the other one is in Stockholm)
Across the river from the castle is the made-for-strolling Old Town
Gothic buildings curve with the winding streets
Many precious Gothic and Renaissance frescoes were whitewashed in Baroque times
when the colorful trimmings of earlier periods were way out of style
these frescoes are being rediscovered and restored
At the heart of the Old Town is the main square
lined with a mix of Renaissance and Baroque homes of burghers (all built on 12th-century Gothic foundations)
with a fine red Baroque facade on the lower corner of the square
McDonald's tried three times to get a spot here but was turned away each time
The Puppet Museum features more than 200 movable creations and a model stage
where children of any age can try their hand at pulling the strings on their favorite fairy tale
The Vltava River beckons to those with an adventurous spirit
One of my favorite activities here is to rent a canoe and go for a three-hour float down the dreamy river
past cafes and pubs happy to welcome paddlers for a break
the rafting company shuttles you back to town or provides you with a bicycle to pedal back along a bike path
Those with less time can still hit the water by taking a half-hour float around the city's peninsula
While Cesky Krumlov can be done as a day trip from Prague
One of the liveliest places in town is the Gypsy Pub
where Romas (Gypsies) tend to live in segregated ghettos
Cesky Krumlov boasts a proud community of about 1,000
The easiest way for a traveler to experience the traditional Roma culture is through its lively music — always crowd pleasing and fiery
Several big summertime festivals bring the city to life
locals celebrate their medieval roots (and drink oceans of beer) as blacksmiths mint ancient coins
mead flows generously and pigs are roasted on open fires
The summer also brings a top-notch international jazz and alternative music festival to town
it's not hard to understand why this is the Czech Republic's second-biggest tourist magnet
With its simple beauty and wonderfully medieval feel
small-town Europe that many people dream of experiencing
Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio
Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook
While finding a medieval-themed festival on any given weekend is hardly a dazzling feat when you call Europe home
a handful of such events rise high above the rest
The picture-perfect backdrop of a mighty ancient castle
fortress or other bastion can make all the difference
Here are a few such festivals with settings that very nearly steal the show:
You don’t have to venture far beyond South Bohemia to experience first-class spa and wellness hotels embedded in the pristine natural surroundings where hiking trails wind through hilly landscapes and highlands encompassing castle ruins and charming villages
the jewel of South Bohemia is Bad Leonfelden
once a trade route crossroads merging Bohemia and the Danube
now a perfect weekend starting point for exploring the forests
We’ve compiled a suggested itinerary with tips for where to go
and how to savor the region’s mountain magic
Switching into sport mode on the long stretches of highway made for a smooth-sailing ride
The Active Lane Change Assist made lane changes less stressful during busy moments on the highway
Route 3 will delight you for most of the two-hour and 45-minute drive
The landscape is dotted with textured patterns of canola fields and crop squares
effortlessly controlled by the SUV to maintain a preset speed and distance from the vehicle ahead
The quiet hum of the electric car was barely noticeable as we glided along
To extend your journey and fit in a proper lunch stop
Tábor is an enchanting little town filled with trendy cafes
and find yourself in a time warp back to the Middle Ages
(Food stops can be located with a search on the screen—shortly before and after the Austrian border
A 40-minute stop will be enough to get eating and sightseeing ticked off
but there are many attractions in Tábor if you want to extend your stay
The Hussites founded the town in 1420 and have been well-preserved ever since
where the Dean Church of the Transfiguration of Jesus is a testament to the Bohemian Renaissance style
History buffs can visit the Hussite Museum or venture down into the underground tunnels, originally the cellars of town citizens. The Tábor Botanical Garden is the second-oldest in the Czech Republic and contains European and exotic flora to admire
We stopped by Kafe Knihy Jednota for a cup of coffee and to browse the beautifully curated selection of books
Upper Austria is known for its array of thermal springs and health oases
with many spa hotels dotted throughout the region
Bad Leonfelden has been a renowned spa center since 1962
with bog baths directly from the surrounding forests using peat
It remains a burgeoning tourist destination
with four-star hotels cropping up recently
Once you’re through the border, the Falkensteiner Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel in Bad Leonfelden is within close reach
nestled in the rolling Austrian hinterland
Treat yourself to a luxurious stay in one of their rooms or suites
Wooden furnishings with a modern flair maintain a typical Austrian cabin feel
with views overlooking the country’s green expanse
Spend your first day enjoying the all-inclusive lunch and dinner at the hotel
using Acquapura Natur SPA and garden facilities
If you want to get out and about for dinner, Friestadt is a small but charming town just a 17-minute drive east from the hotel, which contains the wonderful Freistädter Brauhaus
This typical Austrian brewery serves up mouth-watering and authentic wiener schnitzel
Charging stations for your car are available in the town if needed
you can charge your car in just 15 minutes
we were relaxed and ready to explore the rich region of Mühlviertel
which surrounds the hotel from all directions
the Lobenstein castle ruins are a 14-minute drive southwest of Bad Leonfelden and can be combined with a hike
The medieval castle showcases a heptagonal tower and will grant you stunning views over Oberneukirchen - but that’s just one of many hiking options
There are dozens of walking routes surrounding the hotel itself and beyond, with the Bohemian forest sprawling through the Mühlviertel. If you’re not so much into hiking but love to be surrounded by nature in comfort, take a 50-minute drive to the Thauerböck Organic Distillery and Farm
Sip on some whiskey as you kick back and take in the “green diamond” of the Mühlviertel in the Mühlviertler Alm Freistadt tourist region
Avid golf enthusiasts can play on various courses in Mühlviertel
and Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel guests can enjoy discounted green fees
Don’t forget that within a 30-minute drive of Bad Leonfelden is the city of Linz, where baroque buildings line the riverside and a striking cathedral claims to be the largest church in Austria. For an upscale dining experience here, head to Verdi Restaurant & Einkehr
where you can take in views over Linz and enjoy meticulously prepared food such as their lamb saddle with black olives or artichoke tortellini
Your journey back to Czechia doesn’t mean the end of your retreat—far from it
There are many attractions on the way back that you can visit to extend your trip
After charging the car at the station conveniently located near the car park at Falkensteiner Genuss & Wohlfühlhotel Mühlviertel
we were rearing to go with the rooftop down back along the country roads
We tested changing the recuperation level in the car
which made driving and braking more convenient for the journey
Instead of taking Route 3 straight back to Prague
divert slightly via Route 1622 and Route 160 towards Český Krumlov
a popular destination in the South Bohemia region
Its 13th-century castle with an 11-hectare garden is well worth exploring and snapping some photos of
and you can enjoy panoramic views of the old town from the top
Return to Prague feeling invigorated and relaxed after a three-day trip to some of the highlights of Czechia and Upper Austria
The locations are all the more easy and affordable to access with an electric car
and the options for your travels are endless
Our suggested itinerary can be adapted using the navigation system
with a surprising number of destinations achievable in just a long weekend
It also owns a substantial collection of historical costumes
the class involves a combination of historical and cultural research in one or more of the following fields: seventeenth- and eighteenth-century theatre and opera; historical costume; the court life of seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Europe; and the history of Central Europe with its Italian and French influences
Familiarity with foreign languages is not required
Excursions to Prague and local sites of interest will be arranged
Dalhousie/King’s reserves the right to cancel the course
Q: Three adjectives for your Cesky Krumlov experience
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Once upon a time under the rule of Bohemian Kings
the present day Czech Republic is a land abounding in history
it is home to impeccably preserved castles
and architectural gems spanning from the medieval times through the Renaissance and Baroque
I was privileged to visit a few of the Czech Republic’s historical and cultural treasures upon the invitation of the National Tourism Board of Czech Republic and Turkish Airlines during that perfect time of the year when summer is at its most glorious—a beautiful light casts its glow everywhere
the skies are a perfect shade of cerulean blue
Considered among the world’s most popular tourist and honeymoon destinations
the capital city of Prague is teeming with romantic storybook sights
Prague remains one of the most well-preserved and photogenic cities in all of Europe
With its endless inventory of picture-perfect spots
a week’s stay would not be enough to cover them
Here is a glimpse of just some of the trip’s highlights
Above Beautiful views of the 14th-century Charles Bridge
which crosses the Vltava River Beautiful views of the 14th-century Charles Bridge
Stroll across the picturesque Charles Bridge
a 14th-century stone bridge that spans the Vltava River
Lined with an alley of 30 baroque statues of saints
it is a tradition for first-time visitors to stop along the bridge and make a wish at the statue of Saint John of Nepomuk
Step through the bridge tower at the other end
and cross the ancient gate into the storybook setting of Malá Strana or Lesser Town
glimpse a market settlement from the eighth century on the foothills of the Prague Castle
One of the city’s most historic districts
Lesser Town is where the Renaissance and Baroque periods come alive along the steep streets leading up to largest medieval castle in Europe
cobble d streets pave the way to lush palace gardens
charming hotels set within ancient buildings replete with architectural details
Lesser Town is where you will find Prague’s most famous High Baroque building
the sumptuously decorated Church of Saint Nicholas
as well as the seemingly inconspicuous church of Our Lady Victorious
is the famed16th-century image of the Infant Jesus of Prague that draws thousands of pilgrims from the world over
the historic city centre of Prague A view of Old Town Square
beating alongside the medieval Astronomical Clock
the Prague Astronomical Clock is the oldest operating medieval clock in the world
drawing tourists from across the globe to its mechanism of 12 apostles announcing each hour
It is here at the Old Town Square where the largest Christmas markets in Europe are
a memorial of the time that Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart spent in the Czech Republic persists
which showcases the composer’s most poignant and grand operas set amidst the ornately decorated Neo-Baroque Boccaccio Ballroom
is a musical feat enjoyed in between plates of a four-course menu
Above The author in the Sala Terrana of Vrtba Garden Above Twinky Silverio
the charrming rooftop restaurant of the Aria Hotel in Lesser Town The author in the Sala Terrana of Vrtba Garden
Step into the impeccably maintained Vrtba Garden
one of the splendid Palace Gardens of Prague
Built on the slope of the Petrín Hill
with its terrace of ornamental flower beds
is considered one of the wonders of European landscape gardening
Created between 1715 and 1720 by František Maxmilián Kanka for the Count of Vrtba
it retains an Italian-style Baroque aesthetic to this day despite the palace’s numerous renovations throughout the years
Well-preserved 18th-century frescoes of Adonis and Venus as well as statues of Bacchus and Cerera adorn the expansive Sala Terrana
Climb to the top where the garden culminates in a three-wing arched courtyard
ornamented with grotto shells and a relief of water divinities
enjoy beautiful views of Prague with its legendary thousand spires
Above The splendid Baroque Vrtba Garden transports you back in time The splendid Baroque Vrtba Garden transports you back in time
Located in South Bohemia and considered one of the most beautiful castles in the Czech Republic
the Hluboká Castle has gone through four major reconstructions since the 13th century
but the Renaissance and Baroque periods also laid their enchantment before the Hluboká Castle was made to replicate the façade of Windsor Castle in more recent times
it stands as a Neo-Gothic gem that opens up to expansive grounds featuring an English garden and glasshouse
On top of being a major tourist attraction
the Hluboká Castle hosts romantic weddings for couples seeking a fairy tale destination
Above Roses abloom in Hluboká Castle’s English Garden Roses abloom in Hluboká Castle’s English Garden
Above The richly decorated Morning Salon features dark wood-panelled walls The richly decorated Morning Salon features dark wood-panelled walls
the ancient town of Český Krumlov shares the meaning of its name with “crooked meadow,” which draws images of rural life at the medieval UNESCO Heritage Site
The rich history of the town is memorialised across its natural topography and impeccably preserved architecture
Among central Europe’s most important historic sights
the impressive complex of the Český Krumlov Castle is built upon the rock promontory along the banks of the Vltava River
A must-see is the castle’s fully restored Baroque Theatre— only open thrice a year to candle-lit performances from the Baroque period— andthe Church of St
Vitus— martyr and patron saint of actors— on the castle grounds
While Český Krumlov heralds periods of the Stone Age
its Renaissance era lives on today in the jovial culture and year-round arts and festivals that take place around this storybook town
Above The richly decorated Morning Salon features dark wood-panelled walls Above A view of the Český Krumlov Castle along the meandering Vltava River The richly decorated Morning Salon features dark wood-panelled walls
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