It is one of the most dramatic about faces in architectural history
Mention German architecture and design today and images of clean lines and functional
Yet somehow people we now associate with industrious and sober attitudes also produced the world’s most flamboyant examples of one of its most flamboyant architectural styles—Rococo
which flourished in Europe in the mid-18th century
that you were looking at one of the world’s most opulent rooms
There’s the geometric marble floor guarded by gleaming porcelain and gold statues ringed by delicate columns of blue and pink marble
an undulating balustrade of blue marble marking a gallery girdling the second-floor windows
and a dramatic ceiling fresco jam packed with allegory and historic references and you’ve got yourself a tour-de-force showroom
One of the painted wood sculptures at Wiblingen monastery library
only the ceiling fresco and the floors are as you see them
Because Wiblingen is undoubtedly one of the world’s most detailed and convincing spaces done in the illusionary style known as trompe l’oeil
The library is housed in a large pink abbey located a few miles south of the city of Ulm
A monastery was founded there in 1093 for the Benedictines by the counts of Kirchberg
the monastery became renowned for its scriptorium
the room where jaw-dropping illustrated literary works were handcrafted by monks
the monastery—indeed the greater German-speaking world—was immensely wealthy thanks to decades of peace that followed centuries of war
With a new style (Rococo) all the rage largely as a reaction to the rigid splendor of Louis XIV
As Jacques Bosser notes in his book The Most Beautiful Libraries in the World
the plan for the two-story library in the abbey’s northern wing is a simple rectangular box measuring 74 ½ by 36 feet
The library project began in 1740 under Abbot Meinrad Hamberger
who wanted a space that he said would “awaken a new desire and a new love for spiritual and learned exercises among the monks.” This meant that not only did the space need to house literary works that could expand the minds of his monks
but it also needed to be a space that visually inspired its inhabitants
The abbot turned to Franz Martin Kuen, all of 25 years old, to complete spectacular frescos that as The New York Times once noted
turned Wiblingen into “an amazing testimonial to iconography… Here all knowledge
legend and allegory seems to have been captured in paint
or plaster.” The young artist completed the ceiling fresco in just six months in 1744 using paints from natural pigments
where he studied with Tiepolo and Piazzetta
returning to Wiblingen in 1750 to complete the paintings underneath the balcony
including the tone-on-tone (a painting style in which different shades of the same color are used) portraits of historical figures
Even the doors are painted to look more ornate than they really are
you’ll see opposite you on the second-floor gallery a statue within a niche
which actually opens to reveal a staircase down to the main floor of the library
what dominates are the marbleized stucco columns
The faux-marble pillars are just one of a number of magnificent illusionary works
the other notable ones being the entrance doors
(Also note what is inscribed in Latin above them: “In whom are hid all the treasures of wisdom and knowledge.”)
The secret door that connects the upper gallery to the main floor
The central floor is also ringed by eight statues that look as if they are of a shiny porcelain but are in fact painted wood
Only 96 originals remain out of a magnificent collection which once numbered more than 15,000
They were organized according to the theme of the scene in the fresco above them
most were stolen by the French during the Napoleonic wars and the rest taken by the king of Wurttemberg
they were stripped from the church in the 1803 secularization the region underwent under Napoleon
(Germany before Napoleon was made up of hundreds of little states and principalities
many of which were controlled by the church
it had roughly three dozen and many of the assets of the church were liquidated and awarded to those who favored Napoleon.) Today
the monastery is part of the University of Ulm
another monastic library was built and modeled after it
it was almost as if somebody felt that the pink and blue raspberry color palette of Wiblingen was too gloomy
and we needed to up the cutesy to baby blue and millennial pink
The abbey of Bad Schussenried has its origins dating back to 1183
but like Wiblingen the folks running it decided it needed a makeover in 1753
actual marble columns would have been too heavy for the room
Schussenried never quite achieved the fame of Wiblingen
While elegant and totally somewhere I can see women in taffeta gowns reading and fainting
it doesn’t possess Wiblingen’s sense of shock and awe
Rarely will you see it in the giant coffee table books that round up the most beautiful libraries or the listicles that populate the web
for instance the statues that ring the open floor
They are statues of children from the “wrong” religions: a little Lutheran
a Muslim (with a turban and scimitar--iconic apparel after the Turkish Wars)
because children just don’t know any better
Schussenried’s bookcases are covered with painted fabric to protect the books from sun and decay
Rows of books are painted on the fabric and their spines are all white to keep with the uniformity of the space
The two-story hall held twice the collection as Wiblingen (30,000 books) and so even the sides of the bookcases were built in with books
your guide will also open the centuries-old shelves to show the desk and chair the clever carpenters had incorporated
The ceiling painting here was done by Franz Georg Hermann and is more solemn than that at Wiblingen
but unlike Wiblingen the ceiling and the gallery balustrade are decorated with dozens of wonderful white putti
all of which miraculously survived the centuries and are original
Schussenried was also a victim (depending on your point of view) of secularization, and it was awarded to the countess of Schussenried and Weissenau. But, notes the Times
she lost the famed book collection to the king of Wurttemberg
The countess sued and managed to get some of them back
only to then be forced to sell them to pay for the repairs on the giant monastery she now owned
the library with a statue of Lutherans as the “wrong” religion later became part of a mental hospital and was used by Lutherans there to hold services
although on my visits I couldn’t decide if I’d rather read or attend a ball in them
They are truly imaginative and exuberant spaces
two of the finest examples of Rococo anywhere in the world but also of our remarkable ability throughout the centuries to build awe-inspiring spaces to read a book
Got a tip? Send it to The Daily Beast here
William O’Connor is a former Travel Editor for The Daily Beast. He graduated from Georgetown University and also writes about books and art. Follow him on Instagram at @woconnor11
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A Waitzinger concrete pump (left) alongside a Liebherr concrete truck and conveyor
Liebherr Group has acquired German concrete pump manufacturer WaitzingerBaumaschinen for an undisclosed price
Waitzinger makes truck mounted concrete pumps
trailer concrete pumps and truck mixer concrete pumps
offers the “perfect complement” to Liebherr’s existing concrete division
produces mobile and stationary mixing plants and truck mixers and conveyor belts for truck mixers
Liebherr said in a statement; “The acquisition of Waitzinger has afforded Liebherr-Mischtechnik the status of full-range supplier in the concrete technology sector
“Liebherr's goal is to expand the concrete pump product range and thus further improve its international competitive position in the concrete technology sector.”
Waitzinger’s products will now be distributed via Liebherr's international sales and service network
Liebherr said the acquisition would present Waitzinger's Neu-Ulm factory and its employees with “opportunities for growth and secures prospects for the future.”
Liebherr-Mischtechnik employs almost 700 people at the Bad Schussenried site.