In a voiceover on the soundtrack of her show Emilie Helmstedt urged the audience to find treasure in the everyday She certainly does that through her fashions Baum und Pferdgarten Copenhagen Fall 2024 served as inspiration for designer Emilie Helmstedt’s fall 2021 collection which she showed this past March; The northernmost part of the globe led her to make a twee collection of clothing bearing penguin patches and silky Although you may not have heard of her just yet Emilie Helmstedt’s fanciful work has been worn by Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner—and her art-forward brand is making waves within the fashion industry Part of the whimsy Helmstedt fans have come to know has a lot to do with its prints and vivid colors Emilie Helmstedt hand-paints prints for her own fabrics: images of clouds and animals often float across her puffy silk jackets At her buzzy shows during Copenhagen Fashion Week whether that’s life-size tea cups and pieces of pie or outdoor sculptures all made by the designer the process unfolds playfully and freely,” Helmstedt tells me of the unique process behind every piece she makes “I let my mind guide the movements of my hand based on my current emotions and state of mind Painting is a way of immersing myself into expression without using words—and pausing a world that otherwise runs fast.” there are plenty of brands that take a novel approach to prints But part of what also makes a Helmstedt piece unique is the silhouette—Helmstedt’s garments are easy the silk quilted coats that are almost boxy in shape One of the designer’s favorite pieces she ever created is the Glaze set: an upscale take on sweats that comes in the form of knitted pants and a top with an icy wavy pink print that is both abstract ‘70s and unexpectedly feminine in its approach “It’s kept me warm during winter,” she says “The collection was made in honor of my loved ones and how they make me feel.” Helmstedt’s roots run in the world of craft. She grew up in a creative family, with a stepfather who was a painter and a grandmother who was a tapestry and stone masonry artist. “Expressing yourself by using your hands runs in my family,” she says. “During my childhood school years, I was quite a loner, and still am, since I loved spending time in my own company, letting my imagination run wild.” Fast-forward to today, when Helmstedt just showed its most recent collection for fall 2021. From the start, she’s been inspired by nature and continued to weave those motifs into her work (e.g., the North Pole). The designer is constantly looking forward to the next big thing, while also taking time to slow down. She is currently pregnant, and expecting her first child soon—as a result, she’s been spending time in a quiet countryside landscape north of Copenhagen. “My ambition for the next couple of years is to keep expanding the Helmstedt brand and universe,” she says. “I dream of creating spectacular fashion shows, unique shopping experiences around the world, pop-ups and events that engage consumers in the process of creation, sculptures moving around adult playgrounds, a ‘funhouse’ in Paris with walls and ceilings of colored mirrors where you can buy fun gadgets, exclusive design pieces—and a cup of coffee.” This article was originally published on April 28, 2021 Menu.page-49693118{--metaColor:#876821;--navColor:#876821}(Fashion) We may receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.After making waves as one of the splashiest collection's of Copenhagen Fashion Week, Danish fashion brand Helmstedt's colorful collaboration with Skagen is (finally) available to shop whimsical watches debuted on the Spring/Summer 2020 runway last August — and have been hotly anticipated ever since Joining forces with watch company Skagen the two locally founded globally beloved brands created a series of timepieces that seek to exemplify the youthful and effortlessly cool style of Scandinavian It girls The limited-edition timepieces incorporate the signature sleekness that Skagen watches are known for while also drawing motifs from Helmstedt's sunshine-soaked 'Breeze' collection Each style is designed with a 36mm case body and comfortable silicone straps While the resplendent colors and playful designs across the three different textile stories (bees and stripes) epitomize all that you've come to knows and love about "Scandi style" In step with the "Honey" prints displayed in the bee portion of the collection Helmstedt and Skagen built two models — one features a singular bee on its face dressed from end to end in a swarm of bees and polished off with pearly white hardware The graphics on each watch belong to Emilie Helmstedt the Copenhagen-born creative behind the self-entitled brand Colors and prints govern the world of Helmstedt with cotton and silk velvet setting the stage for their atelier's hand-painted designs Opt for outfits of similar or coordinating colors And if you're wanting to experiment with mixing patterns try pairing it with tiny florals or subtle pinstripes Starting on Jan. 23, each timepiece is available for $125 each. Browse the new releases ahead of the launch below, or head to Skagen.com for more on the partnership: This article was originally published on Jan By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy Danish fashion designer Emilie Helmstedt and Swedish studio All Matters Studio link up for a collaborative effort in the form of a bespoke rug The piece was constructed following Helmstedt’s print from her colorful and playful Fall/Winter 2022 collection which was concocted from the designer’s own brain activity while sleeping and dreaming “Close your eyes for a moment – and try to sense what’s happening on the inside of your eyelid,” Helmstedt instructed “All those small impulses from the light outside that appear on the inside of your eyelid and in your imagination the more they take shape until they finally float together into a stream of thoughts inside of the brain.” Copenhagen, Denmark Womenswear and fashion brand (clothing, sculptures, poetry) Get your weekly dose of armchair travelling, straight to your inbox Volume 7 - 2020 | https://doi.org/10.3389/fmats.2020.00200 Photoconversion of metal-organic precursors to thin film metal oxides using ultraviolet (UV) radiation in oxidative atmosphere is an attractive technology because it can be applied at temperatures <80°C and at ambient pressure it enables preparing this class of thin films in a cost-efficient manner on temperature sensitive substrates such as polymer films various aspects of research and development in the field of photochemical thin-film fabrication with particular focus to the application of the produced films as gas permeation barriers for the encapsulation of optoelectronic devices are reviewed it covers investigations on fundamental photochemically initiated reactions for precursor classes containing metal-oxygen and metal-nitrogen bonds and emphazises the relevance of that understanding for applicative considerations like integration of the single-layer barrier films into relevant encapsulation films Further perspectives are given concerning integration of additional functionalities like electrical conductivity to the flexible and transparent barrier films Target water vapor transmission rates for different areas of application The situation is different for flexible stand-alone high barrier films especially for achieving the more challenging WVTR values below 10−4 g m−2 d−1 A stand-alone film in this review denotes a stack comprising at least one polymer substrate and one barrier thin film which is laminated into the flexible product on an industrial scale to introduce a gas permeation barrier The availability of a film like this is important for applicants who do not want to integrate the barrier thin film preparation into their production scheme directly Reasons for that could be the complexity of preparation methods direct usage of the film as backside for printed electronics as well as deposition or transfer of transparent electrode materials The integration of stand-alone films can also minimize the risk of damaging the delicate barrier thin film in further processing steps cost-efficient stand-alone films are not yet commercially available Ambient pressure coating is a cost-efficient alternative to vacuum-technologies for preparing barrier thin films offering integratability into large-area roll-to-roll processes frequently used transparent polymeric substrate films for the development of flexible electronics are polyester films especially polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polyethylene naphthalate (PEN) They stand out due to their high tensile strength a number of amorphous polymer films are commercially available such as polycarbonate and heat resistant polymers like polyimide or halogenated polyolefins they do not exhibit all the desired properties regarding mechanical stability or light transmission properties for above-mentioned applications Semicrystalline polyester films like PET and partially PEN films are available from various manufacturers (e.g. differing regarding their surface smoothness Since the price for films of PEN is at least 10 times higher than for PET the latter are preferred substrates for industry even though PEN would show higher intrinsic barrier and thermal stability (permeation coefficients of 2·10−14 vs 7·10−14 mol m−1 Pa−1 s−1); glass transition temperatures of Tg = 120 vs The extrusion process of these polyester materials results in biaxially oriented films thus operation at temperatures above Tg can result in dimensional deformation leading to a damage of the top-coated mechanically sensitive metal oxide thin film process temperatures below the Tg are highly desirable for preparing (ultra)high barriers Only a few technologies are capable of depositing highly dense metal oxide thin films on polyester substrates at ambient pressure: Sol-gel deposition spatial atomic layer deposition (sALD) and photoconversion of wet deposited precursor films While sol-gel techniques suffer from long drying times (usually several hours) the three latter approaches show high potential for scale-up on short notice Notation of barrier films as used in this review Schematic of UV photoconversion process of precursor films onto polymer surfaces To the best of our knowledge, Onuki and Awazu were the first to publish the water-free photoconversion of wet-chemically coated precursor thin films (tetramethoxysilane) to silicon oxide thin films (Awazu and Onuki, 1996) several materials were investigated at laboratory scale We chose to present studies based on the main precursor classes being metal or half-metal (M) organic compounds containing M-O or M-N bonds Published examples comprise the preparation of aluminum which are reviewed in the succeeding chapters The only precursors investigated containing M-N bonds are silazane based systems; nevertheless the highest level of mechanistic understanding has been achieved Since we consider that a fundamental prerequisite for the transfer of laboratory-scale results to industrial scale roll-to-roll technology In order to enlarge the scope of metal oxide thin films producible by a purely photochemical conversion of precursor molecules, the VUV-induced (~172 nm) formation of AlxOy layers was investigated using a polymeric aluminum complex of hexanoic acid as a precursor (Wennrich et al., 2013) An almost fully mineralized and homogeneous layer with the composition AlO2.17C0.04 could be obtained applying radiant exposures of 36 J cm−2 The AlxOy was shown by XRD to be amorphous with a slight short-range atom order Hexanoic acid was found to be the predominant stable gaseous reaction product TD-DFT calculations at model compounds confirmed VUV-induced Al–O cleavage as a thermodynamically preferred relaxation pathway the required high radiant exposures are unfavorable for an efficient technical process Photochemical conversion of titanium(IV) ethoxide proceeds at lower radiant exposures. About 2 J cm−2 (Xe2* excimer irradiation, precursor thickness of 270 nm) are necessary for the mineralization and the nearly complete removal of residual carbon at <35°C (With et al., 2016) it could be demonstrated that the initial kinetics the logarithmic apparent rate constant of the precursor film conversion linearly depends on the initial layer thickness in the range of 270 to 1,060 nm the initial kinetics can be characterized by the product of the absorption coefficient and the optical path length (precursor layer thickness) Titanium(IV) ethoxide contains a high portion of organics which have to be removed during UV conversion Film thickness decreases nearly by an order of magnitude (e.g. 67 nm) forming a dense metal oxide network with a smooth surface without cracks Formation of this quite stable intermediate species results in high radiant exposures of 24 J cm−2 needed for mineralization It can be assumed that by an appropriate ligand design the formation of intermediate species can be influenced thus giving the possibility for tailoring the photochemical reactivity Figure 4. Comparison of VUV-induced (Xe2* excimer irradiation, in a nitrogen atmosphere with 0.25 vol% O2) decomposition of different metal-organic precursor thin films depending on the applied radiant exposure at 1 bar and ≤34 °C (Prager et al., 2007; Wennrich et al., 2013; With et al., 2016, 2019b) Whereas, the approaches discussed above are devoted to large area coatings, Rim et al. (2014) demonstrated that a direct light patterning at room temperature is possible by using a photomask for photochemical conversion of heteroleptic metal acetylacetonato compounds (based on In and Sn) to oxides in illuminated areas only followed by dissolution of areas with unconverted precursor This yielded a fine patterning with a minimum feature size of ~3 μm a post-treatment at 200–350°C was necessary to remove remaining organics and to densify the oxide network Although the annealing temperatures are not compatible with low-cost plastic substrates the example of using a photomask shows the potential of the technology to create finely patterned structures onto polymeric substrates Figure 5. (A) Measured UV-absorption spectra of precursor thin films and excimer-lamp emission spectra. (B) Kinetic evaluation of the intensity of the vibration band of the Si—H bond at 2170 cm−1, adapted from Prager et al. (2007) Figure 6. Results on quantum-chemical calculations on the photochemical excitation of model substance H2N-SiH2-NH-SiH3 and subsequent bond scission, adapted from Prager et al. (2007) Figure 7. Transient spectra observed after laser flash photolysis of an N2-saturated solution of tetramethylcyclotetrasilazane (molecular structure displayed on left side) (Knolle et al., 2010) An interesting alternative to the production of barrier foils for encapsulation of electronic devices is the direct application of PHPS solutions on device stacks like organic solar cells (Channa et al., 2019) followed by VUV-induced conversion to SiO2 In order to prevent VUV-induced degradation of the underlying photo-active film and to reduce mechanical stress a protective bi-layer comprising a ZnO-nanoparticle thin film and a UV-curable acrylic resin interlayer were introduced on top of the P3HT film The best multilayer material was shown to be stable for > 200 h under damp-heat conditions (40°C 85% r.h.) without losing more than 10% of power conversion efficiency Stacks from two SiOx-layers (each 170 nm thick) with two UV-curable acrylic interlayers on PET substrate showed an increase of WVTR values (2 × 10−2 g m−2 d−1) by less than 10% after 3,000 bending cycles (bending radius = 3 cm) In order to reach gas transmission rates below 10−4 g m−2 d−1 as needed for challenging applications like the encapsulation of organic electronics (see Figure 1) all gas permeation pathways within the device need to be considered The following chapters cover basic principles of gas permeation through different layer stacks as well as strategies for improvement Table 1. Densities and refractive indices of PHPS-layers treated with varying temperatures or VUV-irradiation regimes (Prager et al., 2014) Industrial applications of UV-laser systems for large-area and R2R processing of metal oxide thin films is still restricted due to high investment and maintenance costs usage of UV lamps is more preferable at the moment A combination of both, UV-annealing using a 365 nm (3.4 eV) LED lamp together with elevated temperatures of 300°C was able to significantly improve the electrical performance and stability of IGZO films as compared to sole UV- or thermal treatments (Tak et al., 2014). Van de Leest (1995) and Nakajima et al. (2005) concluded a photoannealing at ~100°C with UV-lamps (Xe2* and Hg low-pressure lamp; at 7.2 respectively) of sol-gel films to be an enhanced condensation reaction between hydroxyl groups From studies on titanium oxide formation they conclude that in advantage to conventional drying steps in sol-gel methods UV-irradiation enables the formation of “high-quality” oxide films because no low-dense polymeric oxide chains are formed which would inhibit subsequent condensation reactions to a dense 3D network releasing redundant OH-groups photoannealing of titanium oxide thin films is the only example of this technique being successful at temperatures ≤100°C For silicon oxide thin films a condensation of once produced OH-groups by VUV-light (using Xe2* and Hg low-pressure lamps) has not been reported so far Residual defects in metal oxide thin films produced on an industrial scale are inevitable. In order to meet industrial reproducibility criteria, more than one barrier film has to be coupled within one encapsulation film. Coupling two similar barrier films, the “ideal laminate theory” predicts a maximum improvement of the barrier performance by factor two (Schrenk and Alfrey, 1969): Pn – permeabilities of the single-barrier films The F2B orientation minimizes gas permeation directly at the outside of the barrier film avoiding dissolution of water vapor inside the polymer film In addition to that B2B separates the substrate film (polymer films can show high uptake of water vapor) from the sensitive electronic device inside Depending on the orientation of the laminated films the lamination adhesive has to be adapted to the surfaces In the case of B2B two hydrophobic surfaces have to be laminated whereas the F2B case requires lamination of different surfaces Notation of laminate types as used in this review respectively organic interlayers opens further potential to enhance barrier properties of laminated barrier films which might lead to high-performance for products with lower life-time requirements Pre-drying of the barrier laminates to release water from the polymeric films is a technological approach that should be implemented by the end-user of the encapsulation film In contrast to the lamination of layers with defined compositions, Sun et al. (2019) recently presented an approach in which first a polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) and then a PHPS layer were coated alternating Subsequent VUV irradiation not only converts the PHPS layer to silica but also partially organic/inorganic layer structures with gradual transitions of the composition in the intermediate layer between PDMS and silica were created for which WVTR values <10−4 g m−2 d−1 were measured and with which OLEDs could be encapsulated with shown long-term stability For most methods the WVTR measurement vessel is divided in two chambers by the barrier film with a water vapor containing atmosphere on one side The water vapor permeation through the sample can be done by equal pressure or by pressure difference methods (e.g. Besides the determination of permeation rates the optical Ca-mirror test enables an investigation of defect amount and distribution WVTR determination methods for high and ultra barrier films Measurement of ultra barrier film materials is challenging, since measurement time, e.g., by isostatic carrier gas systems (e.g., commercial MOCON, Inc. systems), can take up to several months to reach steady state transmission rates. Kiese et al. (2017, 2019) presented a modification of the classical two-chamber method in that way that the water is collected before being transported to the measuring thermal conductivity sensor This results in a higher sensitivity of the method delivering permeation values which are in satisfying agreement with the values measured by the commercially available MOCON system The large temperature range of 23–80°C and the available humidity range from 15 to 90% RH enables Arrhenius plots to be created WVTR values can be measured at higher temperatures in a time-saving manner and values can be calculated for lower temperatures A combination of the time-dependent measurement with finite element calculations can further shorten the measuring times from months to weeks by a prediction of the transmission rates Investigations by Schulze et al. showed that the substitution of water vapor by helium leads to significant shorter measuring times for inorganically modified ETFE (ethylene tetrafluoroethylene copolymer) and represents an interesting alternative for fast determination of permeation values (Schulze et al., 2017) correlations of He-transmission rates with WVTR values depending on composition and structure of the barrier films and on the specific technological manufacturing conditions is not published yet fundamental aspects of photoconversion reactions for preparing metal oxide thin films could be unraveled by studies of initial photochemical reaction mechanisms Application relevant systems have been investigated in detail with a focus on using this process as a low-cost roll-to-roll technology preparing transparent gas permeation barriers on temperature-sensitive polyester films Industry-relevant gas barrier results were obtained by using these fundamental principles to develop the technology on the pilot plant scale Various aspects of barrier preparation and optimization on one hand as well as the integration of single layer barrier films into application relevant encapsulation films were successfully implemented technologically which wait to be investigated by fundamental and applied research and development The formulation of general principles for underlying photochemical mechanisms would help for a rational design of other thin film systems One could think of other binary metal compounds or even combining different metals in variable composition Application as catalytically active or conductive components of thin film stacks seems promising Further challenges also arise from the worldwide problem of accumulation of polymer residues in ecosystems Recent solutions for the production of degradable polymers exhibit lower thermal stability than conventional ones This creates the need for further reducing production temperatures for thin films and rises considerable challenges in technology and precursor design Just as much as indium tin oxide layers on glass substrates are used as transparent conductive barrier substrates for rigid optoelectronic devices integration of electrical conductivity into a transparent flexible gas barrier film would be of interest to the flexible electronics community Minimizing stack heights and production costs are the main upcoming challenges various barrier/electrode combinations are conceivable this area of research and development is highly active both in industry and publicly funded research organizations Industrially relevant options comprise indium tin oxide for which system integration into technically relevant products will be successful conductivity and cost-efficient industrial-scale production promise exciting topics for research and development toward functional gas barriers in the upcoming decades All authors listed have made a substantial direct and intellectual contribution to the work The authors declare that the research was conducted in the absence of any commercial or financial relationships that could be construed as a potential conflict of interest A new method for fabricating 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This is an open-access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (CC BY) distribution or reproduction in other forums is permitted provided the original author(s) and the copyright owner(s) are credited and that the original publication in this journal is cited in accordance with accepted academic practice distribution or reproduction is permitted which does not comply with these terms *Correspondence: Patrick C. With, UGF0cmljay53aXRoQGlvbS1sZWlwemlnLmRl Disclaimer: All claims expressed in this article are solely those of the authors and do not necessarily represent those of their affiliated organizations, or those of the publisher, the editors and the reviewers. Any product that may be evaluated in this article or claim that may be made by its manufacturer is not guaranteed or endorsed by the publisher. 94% of researchers rate our articles as excellent or goodLearn more about the work of our research integrity team to safeguard the quality of each article we publish. 2019Save this storySaveSave this storySaveEmilie Helmstedt’s work space is like something out of Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory except instead of fizzy lifting drinks and everlasting gobstoppers has recently set up a new atelier for her burgeoning fashion label in the city center of the Danish capital she has built a gorgeous microcosm that reflects the colorful inner workings of her brain: papier-mâché boxes and globes strewn about waves painted on cardboard cutouts leaning against the walls all held up by hangers that Helmstedt constructed and painted herself “I wanted to create a space where abstract thoughts and illusions are allowed to just be,” she says “I always start my collections with thinking Then I go back to my studio and I draw or paint what I dream I’ll choose fabrics and translate my art onto the garments that are comfortable and that you can wear for any occasion.” Photographed by Simon Heger KnudsenPhotographed by Simon Heger KnudsenPhotographed by Simon Heger KnudsenHelmstedt launched her eponymous brand in 2017 and has since expanded her collection to include furniture and home decor as well she received the Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize presented to her by Crown Princess Mary of Denmark she hosted her first official runway show for Fall 2019 at Copenhagen Fashion Week which was shown at the Design Museum and was partially inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s The Princess and The Pea Before the models stepped out from backstage the designer appeared with a long scroll of paper She began to read a poem she had written about dreams and her imagination In the center of the room was a set that she designed with her close friends and her boyfriend Neils Monies: a pile of mattresses plopped onto a bed frame with geometric posts in bright pink and blue and yellow the models walked out one by one wearing the collection which included pajama pants and tops in mismatched stripes long dresses with ruffled necks and sleeves and a puffer jacket decorated with psychedelic circular motifs gilded headpieces inspired by the princess who slept on the pea made in collaboration with her boyfriend’s mother “Andersen’s fairy tale is a bit absurd,” Helmstedt says “But I’ve always loved the illusion of the story and the idea of a deep deep sleep and dreams that come from that kind of sleep.” Photographed by Simon Heger KnudsenPhotographed by Simon Heger KnudsenPhotographed by Simon Heger KnudsenHelmstedt has always been driven by her own dreams even when she was a little girl who struggled with math and grammar in school and found relief from her studies by crafting and learning to sew “I grew up with a grandmother who was an artist,” she explains “She made these huge wall paintings out of fabric and thread so the idea of using your hands to express yourself has great history in my family.” Once Helmstedt finished high school she went on to study tailoring and intern for a Belgian designer While the experience was certainly worthwhile she quickly realized that being focused solely on fashion was not something that fulfilled her “I took a break from fashion and went to art school Only after a few months there did I realize that what I really wanted to do was to combine the two mediums.” Helmstedt eventually left art school as well in an effort to break out on her own “I dropped out because I felt like the school set too many boundaries and put up a barrier between art and design,” she explains “They also told me not to follow my intuition and many have built their own homes and buy food and clothes by trade Helmstedt can usually be found in her neighbor’s garden elaborate set to showcase her fashion collection “It’s a place with no rules,” she says with a laugh and her wide She is captivating not only because of her charm and her big but also because of her passion for what she does and the freedom she finds while doing it As is true in both Christiania and her atelier “It’s about taking your dreams into real life Helmstedt staged her spring 2021 show in a square in the center of Copenhagen for invited guests and others who just happened to be passing by. She and her team wore masks while positioning the models around an original papier-mâché sculpture she built herself. The Dr. Seuss-ian pink heart shape will stay put in the square for a few more days before making its way around the city as a traveling art piece. “It’s my way of spreading some love around,” the designer said on a live-streamed Q&A. Helmstedt’s namesake label is taking off, but it’s the art and poetry that are still most important to her. In her collection notes, she wrote that she really just wants to use her work to tell everyone “to take care of one another.” If her fashion can remind us of that, then Helmstedt has done her job well. Baum und Pferdgarten Copenhagen Spring 2021 While there might not be a direct correlation between the newfound maturity of her fall lineup and that new avenue of expression, Helmstedt moved the brand forward for fall by abstracting some of her inspirations; alongside pieces with twee hot air balloons there was a sunset and cloud pattern that was more evocative. The show opened with the designer reading a poem she wrote, and there was a magical nursery-room feeling to the proceedings, with models carrying papier-mâché fish and climbing aboard a beached pirate boat at the finale. That sensibility carried through to some of the clothes. Sailor and Peter Pan collars looked like they could have been borrowed from a Victorian child’s wardrobe. Quilted jackets, pajama sets, and tiered dresses introduced a sort of bedtime theme. Where some of the other looks would find their happily-ever-after was less clear. Many designers chase youth; in Helmstedt’s universe, youth sometimes reads as childlike. Terry separates, slips, and printed pants seemed like the best candidates for adult swim. As Helmstedt has been so successful at creating her own imaginative worlds, it’s been difficult in the past to relate what she was doing industry-wide trends, but for spring she took the plunge with a selection of slip dresses. “The trend right now is super ’90s and G-strings and we are not about that,” she explained, ‘but [we] just tried to tap in a bit into that mood. I think it’s fun.” So do we. The opening look, worn by local model Nina Marker, introduced Helmstedt’s main theme as well as her collaboration with New York-based accessory designer Susan Alexander, in the form of a cloud bra with fringes of rain (there was also a hair ornament and a bag along these lines). This was paired with cloud-print pants that evoked a blue-sky feeling. Early on this brand sometimes felt more like an art project than a full-on fashion business, but lately it has grown by leaps and bounds. The styles are more sophisticated and the sometimes over-busy prints have been put aside in favor of simpler, but no less enticing patterns. The variety of embellishments has increased, as well. The Royal Danish Academy Copenhagen Spring 2024 Baum und Pferdgarten Copenhagen Spring 2024 Baum und Pferdgarten Copenhagen Fall 2020 This pairing of purpose and prettiness adds dimension to a brand that came into existence in the most haphazard way: When Helmstedt was still in art school, she was contacted by the owner of Holly Golightly, a high-fashion boutique in Copenhagen, about her artwork. In the process of showing those pieces, the retailer saw Helmstedt’s personal drawings and made an order right then and there. Helmstedt started out hand-quilting her self-designed prints, like the vest in the look book. The puffers in the fall collection seem like an extension of that technique. The rapid expansion of the brand has Helmstedt exploring how she can expand her offering without losing the arty charm that made it a hit in the first place. She worked H motifs throughout this collection in prints and in stitches; a melting version, referencing the North Pole, is embroidered on the back of a pair of pants. Moncler 6 1017 Alyx 9SM Fall 2021 Ready-to-Wear spent years hanging out at the local store Sabine Poupinel working on the small sewing machine Poupinel keeps near the register Everyone who loves fashion in Copenhagen seems to have a bond one way or the other and the fresh talent that these relationships have fostered is worth watching here are four of the city’s most promising young designers Photo: Courtesy of Emilie HelmstedtEmilie Helmstedt “I tend to notice girls who are charming, rather than traditionally beautiful,” says designer Emilie Helmstedt “I notice girls who are not afraid to wear garments that are out of the ordinary.” Helmstedt’s clothes are certainly far from ordinary—she paints her own candy-striped prints Helmstedt has a design degree from The Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts and has been painting and sewing since she was a kid on the Spice Girls and Destiny’s Child,” she says “Then I would stage photo shoots and make covers for empty CD cases My other creations would be huge princess dresses with pearls and ruffles—you can definitely see a similar playful approach in my designs today.” Photo: Courtesy of Saks PottsFrederikke Raun who launched her own label in March of last year and sells her wares at Holly Golightly in Copenhagen She works mainly in sterling silver and is inspired by her mother’s heirlooms as well as traditional Scandinavian jewelry design “My goal is to create embellishments that organically fit and form to the body,” Raun explains jewelry is art which is not only aesthetically pleasing but also has the power to evoke positive feelings [and] treasured memories Photo: Courtesy of Helena FanadaHelena Fanada which are organizations that help improve the manufacturing conditions within the global fashion industry but has always found much of her inspirations in East Asian traditions and culture “I traveled to Asia a lot as a child,” she says “I think there is something beautiful about being able to unite cultures from all over the world in my clothes.” Ann Sophie von Bülow was taking part in an artist’s residency in the South of France working on a project about the Irish architect Eileen Gray and her relationship to the English occultist Aleister Crowley The property where the residency was located was surrounded by lavender fields taking the lavender and stuffing it inside pouches she fashioned out of vintage kimono fabric She ended up selling a collection of these tiny cushions back home in Copenhagen Long after they sold out and the residency was over von Bülow’s fascination with Eileen Gray continued and her famous E-1027 house remain 2020Save this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links With new inventive takes bubbling up each day, face mask trends, like matching sets Fashion statements that are leveraged on the public health crisis can seem insensitive or tone-deaf it’s not surprising that the fashion industry has decided to make something you wear beautiful—it is what fashion does The reality is that we’ll be wearing face masks for the foreseeable future some people will gravitate toward one that’s aesthetically pleasing Collina Strada vacation stripe dollhouse pant Collina Strada fashion face mask with bows Lele Sadoughi ocean blue seersucker headband The Vampire's Wife wrapsody floral print cotton mini dress Camp Collection mask and ringer tee bundle Marta Scarampi the deco jumpsuit and travel set Green Street’s global news publications are not provided as an investment advisor nor in the capacity of a fiduciary  Our global organization maintains information barriers to ensure the independence of and distinction between our non-regulated and regulated businesses is authorized and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (FRN 482269) and a private limited company incorporated in England and Wales with company number 06471304 making the event all the more relevant and trailblazing right now Ahead of the fashion week's official kickoff, I wanted to take the opportunity to break down the more under-the-radar Scandi brands everyone is about to be talking about this week. First up is Helmstedt which belongs in a fanciful fairytale replete with unicorns and sunshine (when you take a look at the ûber-colorful clothes Scroll down to see and shop all the emerging Scandi brands you need to put on your radar ASAP Crown Princess Mary of Denmark presented Emilie Helmstedt with the prestigious Magasin du Nord Fashion Prize, so you can bet we'll be seeing a lot more of the creative genius's whimsical clothes on stylish women around the world.  Brøgger could very well be the next Ganni when it comes to achieving cult status. In its brand-new spring 2020 show the brand showed off extremely cool oversize suits There's a reason Résumé is spreading like wildfire: The clothes are colorful with prices hovering around the $120 mark.  Hofmann Copenhagen is poised to expand its horizons well beyond Denmark I love the brand's mastery of print and feminine shapes.  Next up, the nine best affordable celebrity dresses of summer 2019 (so far).  Menu.page-243100618{--metaColor:#876821;--navColor:#876821}(Runway) The runways were packed with fresh trends to try — many of which you can add to your outfit rotation right now providing another foolproof formula to try at this very moment Should the aforementioned pieces feel slightly too minimal and neutral for your taste, check out Helmstedt’s collection. It was an explosion of psychedelic colors and playful cloud motifs that’ll surely inspire you to take a few fashion risks. No matter where your personal style leans there’s a look or two to shake up the way you get dressed And while the clothes were the draw for guests at Stine Goya the set decor deserves some praise as well A series of made-for-Instagram tables where covered with clothes “this was Goya’s take on the idea of homecoming and to drive home the message she brought along two old friends [model] Helena Christensen and [designer] Camilla Staerk to walk in the show.” (Now that is memorable.) To keep the inspiring energy and fashion momentum going study up on the top Spring 2024 trends from Copenhagen Fashion Week ahead (+)Stine GoyaAlena Zakirova/WireImage.s-1900499785{padding-top:155.6667%}@media(min-width:768px){.s-1900499785{padding-top:155.6%}}(+)Baum und Pferdgarten Matt Jelonek/Getty Images.s-2101972730{padding-top:100%}@media(min-width:768px){.s-2101972730{padding-top:100%}}(+)Saks PottsCourtesy of Saks PottsINFO1/3Before you say “boooring” at button-downs being a trend Brands at Copenhagen Fashion Week showed everyone that this closet staple is one of the most malleable pieces to work with the designer gave us a double-layered lavender sequin number while Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave of Baum und Pferdgarten zeroed in on shirting details They made the chest pockets and buttoned placket so stark white that they popped against the navy blue stripes who could forget that Saks Potts made a button down shirt-inspired bag This piece is all but sure to go viral once available to shop the style has become part of the fashion lexicon (It also had a moment in street style in the 2010s.) For Spring 2024 the outerwear is officially back en vogue and feels cooler than ever ranging from preppy leather options and cropped silhouettes to classic black toppers (+)Paolina RussoCourtesy of Paolina Russo.s-1900499785{padding-top:155.6667%}@media(min-width:768px){.s-1900499785{padding-top:155.6%}}(+)Saks Potts Courtesy of Saks Potts .s-2101972730{padding-top:100%}@media(min-width:768px){.s-2101972730{padding-top:100%}}(+)LovechildCourtesy of James CochraneINFO1/3In the early 2000s stars like Ashley Tisdale and Miley Cyrus were wearing skirts over everything Now while you may want to keep the look buried in the past Danish designers are proving the combo does have legs in 2023 — especially if the piece is tailored and chic like Lovechild’s bottoms Try choosing a skirt and pants made to match (taking the guesswork out of styling them) or play around with textures like sequins with denim (look at Saks Potts for ideas) Roege HoveMatt Jelonek/Getty Images.s-1900499785{padding-top:155.6667%}@media(min-width:768px){.s-1900499785{padding-top:155.6%}}(+)Rotate Courtesy of James Cochrane .s-2101972730{padding-top:100%}@media(min-width:768px){.s-2101972730{padding-top:100%}}(+)Rolf EkrothMatt Jelonek/Getty ImagesINFO1/3Designers were very much focused on incorporating different textures into their Spring 2024 creations founder Amalie Røge Hove debuted a hairy scallop-knit dress and Rolf Ekroth followed a similar train of thought with a rug-inspired top where designers Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Friis Madsen sent models down the catwalk in tufted tulle underwear and accessories The outfits provided the ultimate sensory experience Below, photographer Luka Roné takes us behind the scenes at all the major shows from Copenhagen Fashion Week, giving an exclusive look at the pre-runway process—and, of course, the fashions. they kicked off what will be a drastically different season particularly in crowded places like groceries and pharmacies It’s a night-and-day change, one that’s created confusion and incited debate. Many have argued that masks create a false sense of security for the wearer, while others feared a nationwide mask recommendation would cause Americans to panic and buy N95s and other medical-grade masks, which are already in dangerously low supply in hospitals That’s why the CDC is being hyper-specific about its verbiage and scarves—they’re even urging us to make our own Whatever we can do to avoid putting additional strain on the medical supply will help doctors and nurses (and While a fabric mask won’t absolutely keep you from getting sick or from spreading the virus to others if you’re asymptomatic it can help by blocking small droplets that carry the coronavirus in a cough or sneeze By comparing different textiles—thick versus thin woven versus knit—researchers discovered that heavy-weight cotton with a tight weave and a thread count of 180 or higher performs surprisingly well in filtering small airborne particles but the study cautioned against knit fabrics which tend to have more space between stitches More designers are joining their ranks every day—which is good news for those of us with limited sewing skills many of them are using their profits to help buy medical-grade masks for health care workers who will continuously need our support over the next few months we’ve rounded up 10 masks that are available now by a variety of designers from Helmstedt in Copenhagen to Maison Modulare in Los Angeles Copenhagen fashion week is still leading the way in eco credentials Too good to be true?This article is more than 2 years oldCopenhagen fashion week is still leading the way in eco credentials a Danish designer who took part in last week’s Copenhagen fashion week the solution for the footwear styled with her dresses came from her team who brought in their old Nike and Adidas trainers Helmstedt decided it was better than using new versions It also chimed with the rest of the collection – her finale look which was made from scraps of material accumulated in her studio Copenhagen fashion week started in 2006 with relatively low-level fanfare Danish organisers set out a series of sustainability requirements for designers to meet in order to be allowed to show in 2023 which would set them apart from the main fashion weeks – New York Based on the United Nations sustainable development goals the organisers decided on 18 requirements that would apply to the event itself as well as to all designers who wanted to participate recycled or upcycled materials are also encouraged Most brands have dropped fur from collections but, here, fur is banned outright and any unsold stock from previous collections cannot be destroyed – the most prevalent technique, burning and slashing items, was employed by brands including Burberry in the past brands are to sell to discount outlets such as TK Maxx or enter them into the circular economy by exercising due diligence and working with suppliers that chains are free from child labour and factories provide safe and fair working conditions who previously worked for the Global Fashion Agenda an industry group focused on sustainability says she took the job in 2018 to challenge both the role and purpose of fashion week CPHFW didn’t want to lose the bigger commercial names such as Ganni that attract international press and buyers Thirty brands were approached with 28 qualifying three years later Applications were first reviewed by a show committee made up of industry experts Sequins on the Stine Goya AW23 runway Photograph: James CochraneOne brand dropped out of the process halfway through while another was rejected after failing to meet all 18 obligations (Thorsmark wouldn’t reveal which brand it was) it’s encouraging news from what is often considered the fifth fashion week But despite the changes many remain sceptical Ciara Barry, policy and campaigns manager at the non-profit Fashion Revolution, is currently mandating for living wage legislation across the fashion sector She says it is concerning that the requirements don’t even mention fair pay “There is an inherent hypocrisy with a glamorous fashion show displaying collections which are made in poverty All players in the fashion industry should call for systemic change – and fashion weeks have a role to play in this.” Barry says the omission also highlights the challenges that independent brands face from larger fast-fashion brands “The nature of fashion’s supply chains make it incredibly difficult for individual brands to ensure living wages on their own,” says Barry Henrik Vibskov a designer who has been showing for more than two decades felt the requirements finally acknowledged the steps he has been trying to implement since 2016 Photograph: Cynthia Anderson/REX/ShutterstockThen there are the double standards around offsetting carbon emissions In order to meet the zero waste requirement brands sent digital QR codes in place of embossed paper invitations show sets were minimal and all props had to be reused members of the press and fashion buyers flew in from around the world to look at even more new clothing that was being produced the designers themselves were mainly optimistic about the changes who has been showing for more than two decades “Everything has a life after its first use,” he said as he described his basement filled with archive pieces His latest set featuring paper tomato trees is next going to be exhibited in Berlin the siblings Simon and Nanna Wick “creating from what already is” has been their ethos since they founded their streetwear inspired brand in 2018 working with almost exclusively deadstock and upcycling materials is “a no brainer.” They also source their fabrics from suppliers in Italy often using “waste material” from giant retailers or design houses Wick says he managed to trace the fabric used for a faux-fur vest back to a collection from Stella McCartney while a shirt featuring red wine stains was made from an old table cloth Rotate claims its versions are sustainable as they are recycled Ganni say it uses 100% recycled polyester sequins on a 100% recycled polyester backing A spokesperson for Stine Goya said that it uses some recycled polyester versions and its team are looking for more sustainable options co-founder of the Danish label The Garment thinks it’s about phrasing – and that the word sustainable itself is problematic “Fashion is never going to be sustainable and we know that we are contributing to an industry that is polluting way more than it should,” adds (di)vision’s Wick Barry adds: “The Copenhagen fashion week requirements are absolutely better than nothing, but all fashion shows should move forward by introducing sustainability standards that advance further – they could really drive meaningful change in doing so.” Thorsmark says: “If we rewind three years ago, not a single brand met any of the 18 requirements. Now they do so we will push them again to continue improving.” they represent a cross section of fashion and of the world and using techniques as disparate as growing moss (Piero D’Angelo) and transforming a sleeping bag into a coat (Rave Review) Together they are making a bright case for the future of fashion each with a singular voice: Ahluwalia by Priya Ahluwalia; Alled-Martinez by Archie M Alled-Martinez; Area by Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk; Casablanca by Charaf Tajer; Chopova Lowena by Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena; Commission by Jin Kay and Huy Luong; Ester Manas by Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre; Helmstedt by Emilie Helmstedt; Kaushik Velendra; Nicholas Daley; Nous Etudions by Romina Cardillo; Peter Do; Piero D’Angelo; Rave Review by Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück; Samuel Guì Yang by Samuel Yang and Erik Litzén; Sindiso Khumalo; Supriya Lele; Tomo Koizumi; Vaqar by Shirin Vaqar and Shiva Vaqar; and Yuhan Wang “It’s great to meet all these young talents because it’s really like a snapshot of fashion at a given point and it reflects what a generation is thinking and thinking of creating,” said Delphine Arnault the Executive Vice-President of Louis Vuitton and a member of this year’s jury Having been instrumental in the creation of the prize—and having shepherded talent through plenty of LVMH’s many facets—Arnault has long had her finger on the pulse of what’s new in fashion As she assessed the message of this year’s crop of designers “At one point there was a lot of sportswear; now you don’t really see it any more and I think sustainability is really the big theme—but it’s not really a trend.” She paused and then said “I think [sustainability] is something that is going to stay forever.” Delphine Arnault and Gigi Hadid at the LVMH Prize showroom in ParisPhoto: Getty ImagesProblem-solving fashion’s sustainability issue was something that almost all of the brands discussed during a whirlwind of meet and greets scheduled today typically held on the first night of the showroom was canceled.) As guests and LVMH’s panel of experts wound through the displays showing stockpiles of textile waste in Panipat Alled-Martinez was explaining how his entire collection was knitted Later on Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena showed how they source Bulgarian textiles and deadstock mesh for their ensembles while Helmstedt’s Emilie Helmstedt was bopping around in a necklace made of old dinner table china The Rave Review designers pulled out a sexy pencil dress made from old plaid blankets while Nicholas Daley showed how tartan scraps from his studio were knitted into a mega-size scarf Nous Etudions and Commission have both eliminated real leather from their production while nearly every brand here has found sustainable ways to fabricate its materials Another message from the semifinalists is the importance of collaboration—something the big-name creative directors at LVMH have been pioneering since the Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton x Stephen Sprouse days “There are a lot of duos and trios,” said Arnault It’s true that when you create your brand it’s an adventure and it’s always better to be two or three [because] you always need someone to share ideas and strategy with.” Of the 20 labels Also of note to Arnault is the rise in female designers; half the designers here identify as female “I walked through there and every semifinalist is so amazing,” Arnault continued and this year for the first time the jury can vote in the semifinals It’s so hard to vote because I think the level this year is extremely high—and it’s always high—but it’s going to be difficult to choose We received 1,700 applicants and we selected 20.” The final eight will be revealed soon with the grand prize winner and the Karl Lagerfeld prize winner announced on June 5 at the Fondation Louis Vuitton Arnault’s advice for the semifinalists—and for aspiring designers everywhere You'd typically find me gallivanting around Copenhagen this time of year I'm snuggled up in bed instead of attending the Danish capital city's fashion week I've been studiously following along from afar taking notes on all the recurring themes on the runways (And already planning my outfits for next season!)  these embellished jeans stole the show.  Gestuz showed statement-making jeans adorned with sequins.  Marimekko's jeans featured cute floral prints.  patchwork jeans were a recurring theme.  Stine Goya offered an inventive way to wear pinstripes.  Baum und Pferdgarten's runway model is ready for the office.  Gestuz proved that pinstripes don't have to be boring.  Another excellent pinstripe look at Baum und Pferdgarten.  Who said pinstripes had to be relegated to trousers The Garment always excels in the styling department.  Lovechild 1979 was another proponent of the tie trend.  Stine Goya's interpretation of the tie trend This Gestuz look is just so darn cool.  This Rotate look is positively bridal-worthy.  Stine Goya paired elegant gloves with one of her signature printed dresses.  These sheer gloves at The Garment are suddenly at the top of my wish list.  The Saks Potts girl will definitely be wearing long shorts come autumn.  I love everything about this cosy Helmstedt outfit.  Long shorts also popped up on the runway at Baum und Pferdgarten.  I'm taking notes on the cool styling at the Saks Potts show.  This post originally appeared on Who What Wear US.  Next Up: The Only Spring/Summer 2024 Fashion Trends I'm Bothered About MENUFASHIONThe 9 New Scandinavian Fashion Brands to Shop NowThe best of the bright young designers at Copenhagen there are a plethora of new Scandinavian designers to lust over Cecilie Bahnsen, one of the more recognizable names outside Scandinavia, is hands down one of the best new brands out of Copenhagen today. Bahnsen crafts dreamy, pillowlike frocks—often in white and black, although her spring 2019 collection featured gorgeous floral prints in her signature silhouettes and some perfect thin knits. This Copenhagen Fashion Week saw the official debut of Helmstedt, the namesake collection of the 25-year-old Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts student Emilie Helmstedt. Pajama-style silk blouses and pants in shades of pink and blue were presented against a set with hand-painted cresting waves and sea creatures. The colorful silk looks were topped off with extra-floppy bucket hats in coordinating prints. Two years ago, Edda Gimnes was a relatively unknown recent graduate who won the Designer for Tomorrow Award and was handpicked to be mentored by none other than Alber Elbaz, the beloved former Lanvin creative director. Now, Gimnes has refined the tropes that won her Elbaz’s attention in the first place: cheeky graphics and hand-drawn doodles on colorful fabrics, in wearable silhouettes. Gimnes now divides her time between London and Oslo, but spends the height of summer in her native Norway. Paulina Liffner Von Sydow is the creative director behind Little Liffner, a clean-lined, label-free, minimal-chic line of handbags in rich fabrics and colors. Previously, she studied economics and art and worked in PR and media, and all of those experiences culminated in the launch of a collection for the woman who is confident enough in herself that she doesn’t need a brand-name label. is often described as a land of fairy tales It’s a kind of shorthand that attempts to capture the charm of this small country where white swans swim on lakes in the middle of the capital and where beautiful people pedal by on bikes the fashion here follows democratic principles: good accessible design for many The fantasy element at CPHFW is often to be found in the locations This spring 2024 season there were talking trees at Ganni while Stine Goya presented her show on the street where she lives with models walking around tables laid as if for Alice’s tea party Table settings at Stine Goya during Copenhagen Fashion Week A connection to place was also seen in designers’ use of “home textiles.” Antique linens inspired some of the white work techniques applied to subtly seductive pieces at The Garment where the dual roles of women were explored and prints featuring food and tableware that referenced the hyggeligt lifestyle celebrated in publications like Kinfolk Bonnets and headscarves referred back to the rural agricultural roots of the Nordics and round hardware fastenings and pendants nodded at Viking tradition and a kind of arty individualism more so than strict minimalism Denim is the core of a contemporary and casual wardrobe and this season many designers translated the “Canadian tuxedo” into denim sets. At Sunflower, Laid Back performed their 1983 chart-topper “White Horse” while models sported Age of Aquarius-style jeans The Mark Kenly Domino Tan show was presented in the sculpture garden of the Glyptotek museum Both Nielsen and Vain told me they were personally grappling with the chaos of the world The former externalized his angst in a defensive way with American football references and dysmorphic styling while Vain’s response was more subtle (a sharply tailored suit was lined with the material used for body bags) and poignant a muscle-bound model dropped a heart-shaped cement balloon tethered to a chain a way of communicating pain and hope without words “Say Yes to Everything,” read a Stamm slogan, and it seems an accurate summation of the appetite and interest in Scandi fashion fostered at Copenhagen Fashion Week. Skall Studio showed in the garden of the Royal Library in Copenhagen. Sarkis Dersahakian, The Royal Danish Academy Designer: Andreas Hermann Bloch, The Royal Danish Academy Monochromatic moguls dominate the nordic runway presentations and fashion’s elite are flocking to Copenhagen to catch a glimpse of the capital city’s Fall/Winter 2020 iterations Copenhagen’s creators utilize a fashion-forward mindset much unlike other leading labels around the world each designer finds their own unique method of breaking out of the status quo Helmstedt utilizes a wide color spectrum to illustrate the brand’s identity and Ganni establishes their signature style by accentuating design details across a variety of textiles While every visionary seeks inspiration for their collections from their own unique sources and identities there was one trend that tied the plethora of high-fashion presentations together: stand-out monochrome ensembles The one-tone-only color scheme provides an aura of strength one ever-present in all of the nordic design houses peruse our top picks from the Copenhagen 2020 runway Kicking off the list is Denmarnk born-and-raised fashion house Baum und Pferdgarten Look 5 on their runway boasts a full copper jumpsuit tied at the waste with a dramatic knot and paired pleasantly with knee-high boots coupled exquisitely with white platform flip-flops this exceptionally crafted pair is certainly atypical Henrik Vibskov playfully includes patterns and textures all the while sticking to a monochrome palette pink turtleneck under a matching oversized button-up and pants this ensemble illustrates the brand’s commitment to defined structures and exquisite form Rodebjer capitalizes on the minimalist aesthetic with this matching completing the look by casually rolling up the pants to expose the ankle and adding two accentuated pockets to the shirt full-length dress sticks to a strict pink color palette that combines altered hues to create a beautiful pattern and fondly compliments a camp-y headpiece all-black By Malene Birger ensemble features a dramatic overcoat buckled tight above the waist a complementary turtleneck that rises above the collar Cecilie Bahnsen’s take on monochromatic style included beautifully billowing and slightly transparent white pants coupled with a buttoned-up suit jacket composed of the same fabric Featuring firm white undergarments and casual white sneakers this assemblage certainly caught the crowd’s attention on the runway We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings we will not be able to save your preferences This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again This website uses Google Analytics to collect anonymous information such as the number of visitors to the site Keeping this cookie enabled helps us to improve our website Please enable Strictly Necessary Cookies first so that we can save your preferences Juan Carlos Helmstedt moved from his native Spain to his wife's hometown of Port Washington Trading in his dreams of being an international lawyer When that turned out to be a less-than-perfect fit he landed a job teaching Spanish to adults currently working with middle and high school students in Sheboygan Fifteen years ago he founded his business, named Tia Paquita after the aunt who taught him the recipe He sells two styles of chorizo: fresh and smoked You'll find it at grocers including Sendik's Grasch Foods and Groppi's and also in dishes at local restaurants including La Merenda My mother was from the Basque region in north Spain and in summertime I was just running around the streets My mom decided to remove me from that environment she started sending me every summer to my aunt's farm in the north of Spain riding the horses without a saddle like a wild thing I identify so much with the smells of the food from my country I come from a time when the moms stayed home and cooked I remember coming home from school; just by smelling you knew what the people on the first floor were eating and your other neighbor was eating She was a student and I was studying international law They were looking for a native (Spanish speaker) but I can definitely speak Spanish!" I got the job Can I just buy the spices and make chorizo at home I wrote down all the directions and called Spain for an order of the right spices I'd (order) 40 to 50 pounds for my family for Christmas The law doesn't allow me to sell them that way you have chorizo?" She couldn't find the chorizo from Spain I said I ordered it from my butcher for Christmas started ordering 40 to 50 pounds every month and she introduced me to the person in charge I went to UWM and learned what I needed to do The paprika and spices all come from Spain Maybe when I retire in three or four years I will have the time and energy to make it bigger the fresh is the same recipe created 500 years ago my father-in-law introduced me to martinis When somebody comes from Spain I invite them to try steaks I do take my kids to Chicago to Café Iberico on LaSalle Fork. Spoon. Life. explores the everyday relationship that local notables (within the food community and without) have with food. To suggest future personalities to profile, email nstohs@journalsentinel.com Kristine M. Kierzek is a Milwaukee-based freelance writer. She regularly writes Chef Chat and Fork. Spoon. Life. columns for Fresh © 2016 Dinner in 30 recipes (Wednesdays) and food and dining news (Fridays) we round up some of our favorite CPHFW shows of the season While you are here, take a look at the best street style moments from CPHFW SS22.