but instead of landing in ancient Rome or the age of dinosaurs
you find yourself in the former East Germany
surrounded by clunky computers and gadgets that look like they were designed by someone who thought "minimalism" meant "as few buttons as possible
and maybe none of them actually work." Welcome to ZCOM Hoyerswerda
where the digital future of the past is alive and well—and occasionally needs a reboot
This museum is like a nerdy treasure trove of vintage tech
with rooms filled with computers that once cost more than your car but now have less processing power than your smartwatch
you can marvel at the GDR's finest attempts at computing
very slowly." It's a place where floppy disks still reign supreme
and the word "gigabyte" would have been considered science fiction
But ZCOM isn't just about nostalgia; it's a celebration of the quirky charm of East German engineering
You can explore exhibits that explain how these machines were used to keep the socialist state running
from planning the economy to (probably) playing very slow games of Tetris
It's a place that reminds you that while the West had Silicon Valley
something that at least vaguely resembled a valley
filled with silicon if you squinted hard enough
this museum is dedicated to the history of computing and video games
A small museum showcasing various communication equipment and laptops in the middle of the southeast Estonia countryside
An interactive museum dedicated to preserving and sharing the history of the home computer
Its diverse collection of computers and technology spans the ages
This Croatian computer club features such gaming relics as the infamous Virtual Boy and an 8-bit Pacman machine
From under the bed of one of the co-founders
this server helped launch the notorious file-sharing website
One of the world’s most powerful corporations was established on a random Albuquerque street corner
A child plays near communist-era apartment blocks in Hoyerswerda
After the collapse of the communist East German government that had redeveloped the area into an industrial hub
factories shut down and coal production declined
The population has sunk below 33,000 — about half its size before the fall of the Berlin Wall
It was two years after the Berlin Wall had fallen when Karsten Hilse realized the people in his town had changed
"It was the first time that a firebomb was thrown at me," Hilse remembers
"Things like that didn't happen in the GDR."
Hilse was a young police officer in his hometown of Hoyerswerda, in the former East Germany, also known as the German Democratic Republic or GDR. In 1991, a year after Germany reunified, rioters in the city targeted immigrants from countries such as Vietnam and Mozambique
accusing them of taking jobs away from Germans
dressed in riot gear to fend off the attackers
work was plentiful and most people made the same salary
"If you don't have enough — if you've lost your job
and when everything that you'd hoped and wished would happen with reunification fails to materialize ..
and you all of a sudden have all of this freedom
that's really very frustrating," says Hilse
"That makes it so that people are looking for someone to blame."
As Germany celebrates the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall this week — and the end of a divided state that followed — cities in the former east such as Hoyerswerda are still struggling to thrive
evidence that in a country united for nearly three decades
divisions between east and west still exist
Hoyerswerda's coal mines and massive power plant
were among the industrial and economic engines of East Germany
"This large power plant, this gas separation plant, the world's largest, needed an unending supply of workers," says Kirstin Zinke, director of the Saxon Museum of Industry at Knappenrode
architects were brought in to plan a socialist utopia based around the coal industry
including large state housing for workers and green spaces for their families
"This new town was meant to be a true socialist new city that stripped away the trauma of two World Wars that affected everyone in the '50s
It was supposed to imagine this truly socialist and just future society."
Kirstin Zinke stands in front of the Knappenrode museum
The rapid switch to capitalism changed the celebrated status of the worker
who from one day to the next became the pariah of the nation," Zinke says of the figure of the laborer
Many here long for the times before reunification because they were doing a lot better
a laid-off coal mine employee who runs a food bank
Then the city's population plummeted. What was a communist industrial hub of nearly 70,000 people in 1987 has now lost over half its population, as residents have looked for jobs elsewhere. Today it has fewer than 33,000 people, according to federal statistics. The anthropologist Felix Ringel has called it "Germany's fastest-shrinking city."
Some of those who remain convey some nostalgia about the notorious former system
lost her job in one of the many rounds of layoffs at the former state coal mining company
"Many here long for the times before reunification because they were doing a lot better," she says
"You didn't have to consider anything — you really just lived your life on a sedated path
You're scared that you could become sick for a long period of time
Krenz became the director of a local food bank
people who make less than 1,000 euros ($1,105) a month stock up on produce
so I have to come here," says 38-year-old Roland Scholz
one of an estimated 600 people who depend on the food bank
He says crystal meth is a big problem in the city
I played outside all day with my friends until the church bell rang and I had to come home," he remembers
you hope and pray your kids come back unharmed."
That's why social worker Irena Kerber organizes soccer matches for at-risk teens
"Some of these kids have some idea for what they'd like to do with their lives
but most just sit in front of the computer or the TV," says Kerber
this is the one thing that they have in terms of some sort of playground activity."
But the future isn't totally bleak for these children, according to Mirko Kolodziej, a local journalist for the Hoyerswerdaer Tageblatt newspaper. The city's jobless rate is at a 30-year low of 6.6%, although that is about twice the national rate
Local employment options include a hospital and a range of medium-size companies
Kolodziej says many fellow citizens are now focused on urban gardening and activities for young people
reporter for the Hoyerswerdaer Tageblatt newspaper
stands among buildings constructed during the city's boom in the 1960s
"We are kind of an example that you can be happy in a shrinking city
We started a lot of cultural projects here and community work and a lot of different projects to try and bring people together," he says
"Our concerns are essentially the same ones we had after unification in the '90s: that jobs will disappear," says Dubrau
"The federal government has already decided that Germany is finished burning coal
But they haven't offered any alternatives."
Dubrau stands underneath the large cooling towers of Schwarze Pumpe
the facility around which communist-era Hoyerswerda was built
Germany's government decided earlier this year that the country will stop burning coal by 2038
It has plans for alternative energy sources such as gas
solar and hydropower but critics in coal country say this won't be enough
who represents Hoyerswerda in German parliament in Berlin
Hilse questions the science behind cutting out coal use, a high carbon emitter that contributes to climate change. He is a member of the Alternative for Germany, or AfD, a political party criticized for hosting climate change deniers and anti-immigrant sentiments. The far-right party's popularity has surged in states such as Saxony
Hilse shrugs off the criticism to focus on what he says is a crucial energy policy mistake
The plan to shut Germany's nuclear and coal power plants
will leave the country without enough electricity and will shed many jobs
He estimates it will lead to 25,000 lost jobs in Germany's coal industry
will hurt a city that was supposed to be built for the well-being of its workers
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On one side of the centre of Hoyerswerda is a stereotypically east German high-rise estate
whose car park is no more than a quarter full
the atmosphere is weirdly akin to that perfect stillness you get in the countryside
the silence is punctured by the sound of a domestic argument in a nearby apartment
They are actually rowing up on the 10th or 11th floor
but in a town this quiet even the faintest noise carries
Hoyerswerda is about 90 miles south of Berlin and 40 miles from the Polish border
Around one in five of the local population are Sorbs
who speak a language related to Polish and Czech which is used on bilingual road signs
This was once the communist equivalent of a boomtown
with the highest birth rate in the German Democratic Republic and more than 70,000 inhabitants
But in the great bonfire of east German industry that followed reunification the local economy – centred on the mining and processing of lignite
the soft brown fuel halfway between coal and peat – was devastated
this is a case study in de-industrialisation familiar to anyone from the more blighted parts of Britain – but here
there are very German peculiarities that take things into the realm of the surreal
Hoyerswerda's peak population has dropped by around 40%
emptying out vast residential leviathans that are still being demolished
the results of the town's decline were in keeping with that time-honoured symbiosis between shrinking prospects and the politics of hate: Hoyerswerda remains a byword for a deeply ugly episode in 1991 when local neo-nazis besieged a hostel for refugees
one of the most sobering aspects of Germany's recent history was drastically altering life here
as the uncertainty that followed reunification spread at speed
a huge drop in births created what's known as "the kink"
whereby the number of children fell to an extent only usually seen during wartime
you instantly see the result: a striking lack of teens and twentysomethings
compounded by the fact that as they have come of age
thousands of the comparatively few newborns have either got out
Those that remain are faced with one cast-iron legacy of the east-west split
Germany has been praised for comparatively low youth unemployment
in keeping with the unemployment figure for the workforce as a whole – 10.8%
twice the rate in the west – it's reckoned to be at least double that number
Ask anyone under 30 to describe life in Hoyerswerda
and out it all comes: it's a "pensioner town" where young people are too often sidelined
but at the weekend they just walk around town mucking about and getting pissed," says Falko Ebeling
"There's just less and less stuff being provided for kids."
Ebeling is an embodiment of Hoyerswerda's predicament: he's been through two traineeships in the retail trade
with vague plans to go to either Dresden or Leipzig
east German cities held up as examples of post-reunification success
His fate also shines light on the alleged failings of the German education system
The GDR had its own kind of comprehensive schools but
the logic of the selective West German model was extended to the east
In most west German lander there remain three tiers: the gymnasien aimed at those deemed to have academic talent; supposedly vocational hauptschulen; and realschulen
built around gymnasien plus schools that combined the lower two levels
But the west's model was carried over into the central fact of all German secondary education: that too many people's life chances are crudely decided at one moment – somewhere between the ages of nine and 10 in the west
and a couple of years later in most of the east
the paths of children follow those of their parents closely enough for reformers to malign it as a de facto caste system
the sanctity of gymnasien is non-negotiable
and the idea of changing the system unthinkable (when a Christian-Democrat/Green coalition in Hamburg recently floated the modest idea of delaying selection until the age of 12
it was faced with an unbeatable rebellion known as the "Gucci protest"
Most pertinently in the case of Hoyerswerda
there is the fact that thousands of pupils who don't make it to a gymnasium are readied for the so-called "dual system": an enduring example of German corporatism whereby school leads to a wage-paying apprenticeship
This staple of German industry is praised for its role in the lid the country has kept on youth unemployment
it presents a big problem: what if a whole swath of the school system is built around a vision of work that simply doesn't exist
worthwhile apprenticeships are pathetically thin on the ground
Schemes in what passes for the local service sector offer only flimsy prospects and are often hard to find
Non-gymnasium students often complain of a dead-end education
the most likely outcome of which is a life spent in low-wage employment or on benefits
the rest of your life may well have been decided: you'll be in danger of getting stuck
a prominent young activist from the Social Democrats
this is why the school system "triples the disadvantages of young people in the east"
On a half-empty industrial estate on the edge of Hoyerswerda is the local Euro-schule. It's one of a chain of German institutions that has a two-sided mission: to familiarise high-achieving young Germans with the rest of Europe
and to assist the prospects of people much further down the educational hierarchy
it's all about the latter: encouraging young people with no qualifications
to recover lost time and get some vocational training – and
the twentysomethings here are sparky and articulate
All of them smoke: the de rigeur brand is a faux-American variety called Route 66
Set against the dead streets just down the road
"There are no opportunities here," says Sophia Mark
after a flurry of conversation about the local presence of "Nazis" and "delinquents"
there are opportunities," offers Stefanie Nauge
you need to focus and get into a gymnasium."
"If I'd known how important that actually was – well
I would have worked harder," says 25-year-old Daniel Heidemeier
who has found a traineeship in the building trade
until you remember that he is probably casting his mind back to life as an 11-year-old
Out of his secondary school class of around 25
only three people are still in Hoyerswerda
"I'd love to stay if there were any opportunities
But maybe I've now got the opportunity to leave
On the other side of town is an after-school youth club called Ossi – a reference to both a Soviet author named Nikolai Ostrowski
and the national colloquialism for easterners
up to 40 teenagers come and go; it's some token of how rigidly the German school system carves up the population that according to the people in charge
Breakdance classes are a weekly fixture and
graffitied murals that capture a seemingly unanimous dedication to the culture of urban black America
the answer sounds like it came from some spoof youth TV documentary
"It reflects reality," says Riccardo Danz
"It gives us something to relate to."
are on benefits – they want him out of Hoyerswerda
"My mum is already getting me worked up about leaving this place
She says: 'There's nothing here for you.' Even if there is work
And look at the place: all those empty blocks of flats
The youth club is run by a young social worker called Sandra Neuber
one of a small but driven band of people who have refused to join the exodus
and are trying their utmost to stop hopes being broken beyond repair
Even the tenor of the local nightlife seems almost comically grim: though it's sponsored by the local McDonalds
a forthcoming club night is titled – in English – "Fuck the Beat and Die Dancing"
and advertised with a flyer featuring a monochrome figure wearing a gas mask
On the edge of the Hoyerswerda's main park
six or seven adolescents – all hooded tops
beer bottles and cigarette smoke – seem to be readying themselves for a night of getting pissed and mucking about
along roads hardly troubled by end-of-day traffic
Which language would you like to use this site in
To mark the International Day of Tolerance on 16 November
Amnesty researcher Marco Perolini speaks to families in Germany who have been the victims of racist threats and attacks
“I am not going out without my husband anymore
People always give me bad looks just because I am wearing the headscarf and I am a foreigner
fled to Germany from Iraq with her three children
They were staying in local accommodation set up for asylum seekers when a man tried to break into the building
“I don’t go to the park with my kids on my own and I have the impression people are very hostile in town
plans to establish accommodation for asylum seekers in Hoyerswerda triggered open hostility from locals
Far-right groups have remained active in the town following notorious racist riots in 1991
and there was a coordinated online campaign to ensure the building never opened
“There is a lot of misinformation”“We responded immediately,” says Maruska
the engaging leader of a local community group which is working hard to prevent a repeat of the 1991 riots
“We involved local authorities and organized public events to discuss the issue
There was a lot of misinformation about asylum seekers
Many people think they are privileged and I kept on stressing the contrary.”
far-right groups have staged hundreds of protests against accommodation for asylum seekers
But the number of refugees here is still comparatively low – there are 2.32 refugees per 1,000 people in Germany
“I don’t have rights here”The situation in Germany is echoed across Europe
victims of hate crimes are struggling to get justice
and authorities do not recognize the racist motive behind crimes
police in Marseille injured a Roma man from Romania after he was forcibly evicted from his home
who was violently attacked in December 2013
“I came to Bulgaria to escape death in Syria but I don’t have rights here
I was beaten up and I have almost lost one eye – but the authorities are not dealing with my case.”
Europe needs more community initiatives like Maruska’s group in Hoyerswerda
But no local initiative can be successful if isn’t accompanied by a larger debate on racism and discrimination
And governments have to ensure that hate crimes are recognized as such
Together we can fight for human rights everywhere
Your donation can transform the lives of millions
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offer respite from the strains of urban life: cheap housing and plenty of kindergarten places
the shortage of which is a huge source of stress for metropolitan parents
Neither is near a big city; both offer visitors a friendly
This article appeared in the Special report section of the print edition under the headline “Desperately seeking people”
Discover stories from this section and more in the list of contents
as the fog slowly lifts and crows circle above the communist-era highrises
matters of life and death have begun to mark the day in the eastern German town of Hoyerswerda -- as they do so often
stands next to a patient he thinks is suffering from stomach cancer
in a comforting sing-song voice that puts elderly women at ease
he says: "You sleep nicely and I'll do the work for you."
In the obstetrics and gynecology department
a Lebanese doctor is running an ultrasound transducer across the belly of a pregnant woman who is experiencing premature contractions
he is searching the fetus for a pair of testicles
listens to a child's bare belly using Günter
Günter tickles and the doctor speaks in a Mickey Mouse voice
Helping to deliver life and to delay death is the daily business at this hospital in Hoyerswerda
a city 160 kilometers (100 miles) south of Berlin
concrete box with six floors; it is surrounded by residential buildings
The revolving door deposits people inside the hospital -- healthy ones carry flowers and chocolates
the ill or injured can be seen in dressing gowns
there was less of everything here -- less coal mining and fewer people
One 2011 study found that Hoyerswerda had become home to the highest share of dementia patients of any city in Germany
with one-third of the local population aged 65 or older
Built as a model socialist concept city by the Communist Party
Hoyerswerda was home to 70,000 residents during the East German days
That meant the construction of lots of drab
many of which are now tagged for demolition
The city now has a population of less than 35,000 and dandelions have begun taking over unused lots
The craters in the lunar landscape surrounding the city
part of plans to create one of Europe's largest lake districts
with 12 packs known to be living in in the surrounding Lausitz region
city planners and sociologists travel here to study the effects of population exodus and demographic transformation and to see if something can be learned from this shrinking city
It is the primary healthcare provider for the region
around 20,000 inpatients and 40,000 outpatients per year
administrators have launched an experiment -- that of hiring foreign doctors to fill vacant positions
one out of three doctors in the facility is not German
Around 50 doctors from 16 different nations work here
not counting those who have already become naturalized citizens
The region will continue to waste away and it is too late to turn things around
But medical workers and doctors from Eastern Europe
the Muslim world and Africa are at least helping this transformation take place with dignity -- and helping in the search for recipes to address the shortage of doctors and nurses experienced elsewhere in Germany as well
the experiment may even help curb the xenophobia that has plagued the region for decades
has a dark past -- one well known to most in Germany
just two years after the fall of the Berlin Wall
xenophobic riots in the city saw right-wing mobs attack hostels for foreign contract workers and asylum seekers
Dozens were injured and the city became a no-go area for foreigners
A typical day of patient visits with pediatrician Galil shows that xenophobia is still present
who adds that his European colleagues don't have a problem
"It's because of the color of my skin." Almost as if to prove it
a child wearing green rubber boots with a runny nose and a terrible cough
a heavy-set woman with lavender streaks running through her blonde hair
Galil bears a slight resemblance to the younger Michael Jackson
He wears a white lab coat -- and wears his thick curls in an Afro
"the man's hairdryer blew up in his face."
who appears to be suffering from a stomach ache after eating too many potato chips
"You must have had to learn a lot from us -- the language
how to behave and now to become a nurse -- respect!"
Senior Physician Tarik Galil is familiar with all such reactions and sometimes he says he feels like a development aid worker
He once considered going to Africa with Doctors without Borders
but he instead landed at this hospital in the state of Saxony
He had just arrived in Germany as a 12-year-old when he first heard of Hoyerswerda
The city was featured on the news on TV and his mother made him promise that he would never go there
He had fled the civil war in Sudan with his parents and his four siblings and they were living at the time as asylum seekers in Germany near the Dutch border
the family only spoke German and his dad even kept a dictionary at the dinner table in case they needed to look up words
one is a law professor and several others are doctors
Tarik became a senior physician in the western state of North Rhine-Westphalia and all of the siblings have since become German citizens
The pediatrician wound up in Hoyerswerda despite his mother's warnings
Now the father of two small children and with a mortgage to pay
Galil came to check out the town by covering for other doctors on vacation
he says he asked for directions to the hospital at the train station
"The 30- to 60-year-olds are okay," he says
"Those who are younger are skinheads and the older ones are old Nazis
but that's how I see it." He says racism in Germany was also one of the reasons he decided to specialize in pediatrics
"You can still help kids to change -- you're working towards life
The events that make Galil's mother so fearful back then -- and which continue to traumatize Hoyerswerda to this day -- took place on five autumn days 23 years ago
a pair of young German men began beating up Vietnamese workers
The immigrants barricaded themselves inside a hostel for East German-era contract workers from Vietnam and Mozambique at a local brown coal processing plant
Assailants threw rocks and Molotov cocktails
injuring 32 people at the contract worker hostel and a hostel for asylum seekers
with hundreds of locals shouting hateful slogans in front of the hostels
authorities decided to transport the foreigners out of the city in buses
The mob on the street screamed epithets at the immigrants and cheered their departure
They declared Hoyerswerda to be "free of foreigners."
about what happened back then in Hoyerswerda
a politician said the riots were "about the worst" thing to happen in Germany since Kristallnacht
as the anti-Semitic pogroms of November 1938 are called
Yet the hostels of Hoyerswerda were not burned and nobody was killed
was the first in a series of xenophobic attacks in early 1990s-Germany
It was as though the riots there had opened a valve
making the worst imaginable things possible
local residents set fire to a hostel for foreign workers in Rostock
two homes belonging to a Turkish family were set on fire in the city of Mölln in Schleswig-Holstein in northwestern Germany
killing the grandmother and two granddaughters
three days after Germany's asylum laws were tightened
four young men committed an arson attack on the home of Turkish immigrant workers in Solingen in North Rhine-Westhphalia
The victims either burned to death or died trying to jump out of the window
It appeared that dark Germany had regained the upper hand
and there was considerable outrage worldwide
then-SPIEGEL reporter Matthias Matussek wrote extensively about Hoyerswerda
He said the city had become a synonym for neo-Nazi rot where "the ugly German has had his coming-out."
Grahlemann took over management of the hospital in 2006 and ran it for eight years
He started working there at a time when the clinic could barely afford to pay its workers' salaries
Entire wards at the hospital were abandoned
doctors had moved out and new people didn't want to come to replace them
His predecessors received special allowances for their willingness to work in the east
but they ultimately were unable to stop the facility's deterioration
It was Grahlemann's idea to recruit foreign doctors to the area
Grahlemann decided to change the hospital's name
had to disappear so he instead focused on something more positive -- the new lake district being created in the area
Grahlemann decided to rename it the Lausitzer Lake District Clinic: The Academic Teaching Hospital of the Dresden Technical University
Hoyerswerda now only appears in the fine print
The hospital executive also designed a chic and friendly new logo that includes elements representing the water
Attracting doctors proved to be a more difficult task
"What does a doctor want to do?" Grahlemann asked himself
enjoy the nature and then go home for the weekend
That's something we can offer." Grahlemann worked together with a dozen headhunters and also went on promotional tours
spending years sitting at small stands at annual medical conferences in Prague
Most foreigners were unaware of Hoyerswerda's past and expressed interest in working there
he received 15 applications in response to a job ad placed in Germany
Once it became clear to applicants that the position was in Hoyerswerda
"It's clear that German doctors have a problem with Hoyerswerda," Grahlemann says
he argues that German medical students are less committed
saying they are more interested in working part time or focusing on their free time
"They prefer to go into the pharmaceutical industry or research," he says
Grahlemann's recruitment tour was not made necessary just because his hospital was located in Hoyerswerda
The healthcare industry in Germany has suffered from a migratory phenomenon for many years now
making hospitals and practices in rural areas increasingly dependent on foreign workers
around 35,000 foreign doctors are working in Germany and several thousand positions remain vacant
a town also located in the state of Saxony
employs almost exclusively nurses from Spain
a country where one out of two people under the age of 25 is jobless
But even as Germany draws in foreign healthcare workers
German doctors are going abroad to Scandinavia
where they can command significantly higher salaries
The Lake District Clinic has since improved the services it offers to its foreign workforce
There's a "Welcome Day," German language instruction is offered on site
the hospital pays for hotel rooms as new employees search for apartments and it helps with administrative formalities
Summer BBQs are also hosted in which each doctor brings specialties from his or her home region
The hospital says it has only had to send two foreign workers home so far
One was a Chinese man whose accent was too strong for German patients to understand
an Italian man who wanted to become a surgeon
Grahlemann is thoughtful when asked if it is right for Germany to address its labor market problems by recruiting workers from low-income countries or war-torn regions
they have the possibility to become anything
Robert Donoval is the youngest chief physician at the hospital and the first to have come from abroad
He originally planned to stay for only two years -- and he initially suffered from homesickness for Prague and missed his apartment on the city's famous Wenceslas Square
after becoming a chief physician a few weeks ago
Donoval is a general practitioner responsible for 40 beds and
he speaks very quickly and is constantly moving
Donoval says such a rapid rise through the ranks would not have been possible in Prague where
there's "too much nepotism and all the good posts are already taken." But
he is under a lot of pressure here and that he has to be "twice as motivated" as his German colleagues -- otherwise he wouldn't be able to handle the workload
"We chose the right boss," whispers a nurse
But it's a tough job: Donoval's office is stacked with files and he doesn't get much time to spend at home with his wife
a Slovakian who followed him to Hoyerswerda and works as a nutritionist
When asked if he feels disadvantaged as a foreigner or if he has ever had problems with right-wing radicals
He says he's a huge fan of Germany and praises its "order," "industriousness" and Richard Wagner
he has a copy of "Germany Does Away with Itself" on his shelf
the bestselling book by firebrand populist Thilo Sarrazin that made headlines a few years back with its highly controversial theories about immigrants
Donoval does his best to be the better German
He's a typical example of immigrants who have fought hard for their success and show little pity for slackers
saying he gets annoyed when Angela Merkel "is cursed as a Nazi by the Greeks just because she knows how to save
his phone rings and he rushes back to the ward
in the old city center on the other side of the river
sits at a plastic table in a hostel with a cup of coffee and cookies
He's surrounded by a Syrian family that has come to seek his advice
Ali is examining the anti-depressants and blood pressure medication prescribed to them by their doctors
Ali is an anesthesiologist in the intensive care unit
a serious man with melancholy eyes who is generally the most important man in the operating room
it's his job to ensure that people don't feel very much
but here he has compassion and exhibits his anger
Ali is first and foremost a Syrian trying to help out fellow Syrians in need
and these weekly visits aren't easy on him
Ali is sitting in Hoyerswerda's new asylum seekers' hostel
the first to open here since the 1991 riots
The number of asylum seekers in Germany has grown so dramatically in the past three years that the state of Saxony was forced to find new places to shelter them
Some 130 asylum seekers got assigned to the city and they moved into the quarters -- a remodeled former school for the handicapped that is located far away from the location of the 1991 riots
The people living here are African who crossed the Mediterranean by boat
Iranians and an Iraqi woman with triplets who had been persecuted by her husband
This too -- the opening of an asylum hostel in Hoyerswerda -- is an experiment
Will the "ugly German" hold back this time
In "Hoyerswerda of all places," the newspapers wrote
It is a "city on probation." Germany and the world are paying close attention
The Ali family came to Hoyerswerda a year and a half ago
Everything that was important to them was left behind in their homeland: their relatives
a three-story villa and his wife's pharmacy
They came to Germany with four suitcases and two daughters
Today they live in a middle-class apartment building with no neighbors under the age of 70
with signs in the hallway prohibiting various things
The price for their new lives in Germany is high: bureaucracy
visits to the authorities and vast amounts of paperwork
Ali was successful largely because of the assistance provided by the hospital
but his wife still has to go through it all
She'll have to take classes to learn German
obtain a license to practice and undergo a traineeship program despite the fact that she already ran her own pharmacy
they go to town festivals and have German friends
asked her teacher when the foreign children living in the asylum seekers hostel would finally be allowed to attend their school
Sitting at a table in the asylum seekers' hostel
There are the Germans who give them dirty stares when they greet them
They say one of the men from the hostel got attacked in the town square and that their son is now wetting his bed at night
What do you expect from these people?Certainly not unconditional love." He then rushes back to the patients at the hospital
you have refugees who appear to be powerless
and stranded in the furthest eastern corner of Germany
you have doctors who are helping to save a town
They are adjusting to their surroundings and showing what may soon be the fate of other outlying regions in Europe
immigrants are coming in to take over unfilled jobs and are even transforming dying places like Hoyerswerda into multicultural cities in the heart of the EU
It more or less works because Hoyerswerda isn't just home to right-wing rowdies
a 44-year-old who was born here and whose family has deep roots in the city
When she's not taking care of her five kids and her grandson
she can be found sitting in the office of a local citizens' initiative fighting xenophobia called Hoyerswerda Helps with Its Heart
the organization can rapidly mobilize some 50 people and deploy them against neo-Nazis in front of the hostel should it become necessary
Maroske says she stood by in 1991 as her former husband screamed at foreigners to leave town
She says wants to make up for that wrong through "better prevention
Maroske leads a reporter through the apartment complex she grew up in
where she had her appendix removed as a child
she talks effusively about her life back then
She points to abandoned playgrounds where hundreds of children used to play and to the neighborhood bar -- boarded up today -- where her father used to drink beer
She points out the cleaners where workers at the local coal mine would leave their clothes washed
Envy of the newcomers quickly turned into hatred
"They're taking away our work and our women and they are getting more from the state than we are." Maroske says people still use the same arguments today
not even after the recent anti-Muslim Pegida protests in Dresden
a monument is being dedicated in the town to commemorate the riots
the local commissioner for foreigners' affairs
television teams and the new hospital director have all gathered to inaugurate it
No doctors are present; they have too much to do
But just as the mayor begins to speak about a "culture of welcoming" and a "cosmopolitan town," five neo-Nazis position themselves directly in the line of the cameras
One has "Hoyerswerda" tattooed on his right forearm
They want to be seen and begin chanting so as to disrupt the proceedings
one can look through the memorial at the hospital in the distance
Dusk is descending and the clinic's lights shine bright -- it's hard to tell if it is real
police are seen during the xenophobic riots that took place in the city in September 1991
Hoyerswerda has never recovered from the events of the time and its population continues to shrink today
Foreigners from Africa can be seen here on Sept
Locals cursed and clapped as they were taken away
saying they wanted Hoyerswerda to be "free of foreigners"
Vietnamese workers hold up a banner reading
Some called the riots the worst episode in Germany history since Hitler's Kristallnacht pogroms against the Jews in 1938
An African worker is seen here peering out a window
Hoyerswerda is now hoping to burnish its badly tarnished image
the 20th year since the fall of the Berlin Wall
Chancellor Angela Merkel’s government is preparing for a host of celebrations and commemorations leading to the November anniversary
The official story of an eastern revival was reinforced by President Obama’s recent visit to Dresden in all its reconstructed glory
in places like this former industrial mining town
the story of decline and departure has changed little in the former East Germany
Not far beyond the few thriving urban centers
traffic is often spare on the freshly paved highways
and at night in parts of Mecklenburg-West Pomerania in the northern part of the country
there is hardly a light to be seen to either side of the autobahns
the performer Rainald Grebe described a feeling of solitude by singing
I feel Brandenburg,” referring to the former East German state that surrounds Berlin
Newspapers track the return of wolf packs to Saxony along the Polish border on the one hand
and the continued migration of the young and the educated to the greater opportunities in the west on the other
When German government officials last week presented their annual report on the state of unification and the attempts of the former East Germany to catch up to the west
the picture they painted was overwhelmingly positive
The government accurately reported that it had spent more than $60 billion supporting businesses and building infrastructure from 2006 to 2008 alone
And economic activity per person has risen to 71 percent of the former western sector’s from 67 percent over the course of this decade
the east is on the best track to converge with the west,” said Wolfgang Tiefensee
the minister responsible for the development of the former East German states
It is closing partly because the export leaders taking the hardest hits in the economic downturn are in the west
Unemployment in the former East Germany remains double what it is in the west
and in some regions the number of women between the ages of 20 and 30 has dropped by more than 30 percent
roughly 1.7 million people have left the former East Germany since the fall of the Berlin Wall
a continuing process even in the few years before the economic crisis began to bite
And the population decline is about to get much worse
as a result of a demographic time bomb known by the innocuous-sounding name “the kink,” which followed the end of Communism
The birth rate collapsed in the former East Germany in those early
uncertain years so completely that the drop is comparable only to times of war
director of the Berlin Institute for Population and Development
“For a number of years East Germans just stopped having children,” Dr
The newspaper Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung reported recently that although 14,000 young people would earn their high school diplomas this year in Saxony
about 2,000 schools have closed across the former East Germany because of a scarcity of children
once a model city of Communist East Germany with the highest birth rate in the country
Emptiness is the reigning feeling when walking through the city
which has lost more than 40 percent of its residents since the fall of the wall
with the population dropping below 40,000 people from more than 70,000
plans to work in New Zealand next year and then expects to go to college
she does not describe herself as leaving happily
I grew up here and I like the city,” she said
the industrial complex at Schwarze Pumpe used to provide 13,000 jobs to Hoyerswerda residents in Communist times
The city government is tearing down apartment buildings to try to keep up with the plunge in population
7,500 have been torn down and 2,000 more are scheduled for demolition
On a recent visit home from where she now lives
Judika Zirzow stood on a flat expanse of earth
The barren tract was once an apartment building
one of the pillars of the former East German Wohnkomplex
“Every time I visit my parents and I drive through Hoyerswerda
there’s every time a new house that’s torn down,” said Ms
She said she was well aware that she enjoyed opportunities that she never would have had under Communism
having just returned from a trip to Thailand with her Australian-born boyfriend
But that does not change the feeling she gets when she goes back
“It’s sad to think that if I have children
but has already seen a lifetime’s worth of change
“I saw as they built the apartment where the children grew up,” she said
“I was happy when we moved into the newest buildings in the city
she and her husband live in a small house in a village outside of town
“The people of the east have turned into nomads,” the elder Ms
speaks to supporters after exit poll results in state elections on Sept
For as long as Germany has been a unified country
the center-left Social Democratic Party has helped govern Brandenburg
a state in the country's east that surrounds Berlin
an SPD member of Brandenburg's state parliament
is concerned about how long that will last
voters in her town of Zeuthen helped the far-right Alternative for Germany
double its share of the vote in Brandenburg from 12.2% to 23.5%
the AfD managed to secure 27.5% of the vote
a 17.8% increase over the last election five years ago
The center-left coalition governments in both Brandenburg and Saxony managed to hold onto power by just single percentage points
The two state elections confirmed what political analysts have been warning for years: that the AfD is rapidly gaining popularity among German voters
it didn't have enough votes to sit in Germany's Bundestag or parliament
the AfD is now the third-largest party in Germany
winning 94 of the Bundestag's 704 seats in the last federal elections
The rapidly growing party has center-left politicians like Fischer concerned
The SPD's Tina Fischer believes her party should have reacted more quickly to voters' concerns when Germany took in large numbers of migrants in 2015
believes her party should have reacted more quickly to concerns about a surge of around a million migrants that Germany began taking in four years ago
Around 2% of the migrants who have moved to Germany
fleeing wars and instability in Iraq and Syria — roughly 28,000 — chose to settle in the bucolic towns of Brandenburg
Fischer and her party colleagues have learned the hard way that their constituents are still uneasy about these asylum seekers
and the AfD has successfully campaigned on these fears
'You don't have any reason to be frightened,'" says Fischer
says her city government should have hired more police officers to patrol public squares
trains and buses to help residents feel safer
As she explains what she could have done better
She says an emboldened AfD has become popular not only through its anti-immigration message
but by how it delivers that message: through Facebook
in a style Fischer calls "Diktatur der lauten menschen," dictatorship of the loud
"And they are loud and they are noisy and they are in the newspapers and they are on Facebook," she says
AfD supporters and politicians cheer results of the state elections in Brandenburg on Sept
She says she's worried that AfD's surge in popularity in Brandenburg will turn away multinational companies — the region is home to big employers like Rolls-Royce and engine maker MTU
some of whose employees she imagines might be scared of settling down in what she calls "Nazi-land."
AfD voter Peter Scheppert objects to the way the party is characterized
I can say that we are not just one class of the population who are very stupid and who have no education," he says
Our opinions are shared by all classes of society."
The 65-year-old retiree says his family – all of whom
His 45-year-old daughter works for Bayer and speaks Mandarin
His son-in-law has lived in Japan and Spain and wants to complete his Ph.D
Scheppert says he and his family voted for the Social Democrats for decades — but switched to the AfD in this election because they're frustrated with what he calls "an unchecked flow of asylum seekers" into Germany
He's also frustrated with the election results
"The AfD should have had more votes," huffs Scheppert
Hendrik Böheme is on a coffee break from his construction job
He believes that the AfD's popularity is surging because the government "mismanaged" an influx of refugees
"There are refugees all over the world who have to be taken care of," says Böheme
But the single men who can rebuild their home countries should go back."
Other AfD supporters in Zeuthen refused to be interviewed by NPR
fake news establishment that would portray AfD supporters as Nazis
says such suspicions are rooted in the way German media and rival politicians portray AfD members — as extremists
The press has a problem with us and always tries to blame us," says Kuffert
"It's wrong to assume we are right-wing radicals
I see people who want to build a reasonable Germany
This certainly has nothing to do with the dark Nazi period."
A few dozen Jews from the former Soviet Union joined the AfD last year
which caused outrage among Germany's Jewish community
Kuffert says Germany's political and social elites will continue to get his party wrong until they come to the realization that the AfD represents what he calls "the country's middle."
Polling data released this week shows that while the AfD may not represent "the middle" nationwide, the party is rapidly gaining in national popularity. A monthly survey by the Institut für Demoskopie Allensbach shows the AfD achieving its highest popularity score all year among voters throughout Germany
Political analysts will be closely watching the upcoming state elections in the eastern state of Thuringia on Oct
where the AfD is polling neck-and-neck with centrist and leftist parties
NPR Berlin bureau assistant Anna Noryskiewicz contributed research to this story
a mob of right-wing radicals armed with Molotov cocktails
tracer ammunition and stones attacked hostels for contract workers and asylum-seekers in the city of Hoyerswerda in the state of Saxony and terrorized residents for five full days
filled with frightened people from Mozambique
The attacks made international headlines not only because it raised the specter of xenophobia in the states that once belonged to East Germany
but also because local residents simply looked on as the violence escalated
Police in Hoyerswerda were unable to get the situation under control and ultimately officials at the hostel removed the foreigners and took them elsewhere
Twenty-three years have passed since the attacks that brought shame on the entire country
the city of Hoyerswerda has announced its plans to open a new hostel in a special education school that closed last year and is currently being renovated to provide accommodations for asylum-seekers
the first refugees could move in by the end of January
Engaged local residents and politicians are trying to ensure that history does not repeat itself. But their task is not an easy one; Germany is currently experiencing an influx of refugees not seen since the 1990s and xenophoia is once again beginning to infect the debate
The far-right National Democratic Party (NPD)
an organization that has been described by Germany's domestic intelligence agency as xenophobic and anti-Semitic
has sought to capitalize on such sentiment in recent months
In November and December, the party organized protests against a new reception center for asylum-seekers who have just arrived in Germany in the town of Schneeberg, which is located near Hoyerswerda. And in Berlin's Hellersdorf district, right-wing radicals have been trying to stir up trouble over a new asylum-seekers' hostel there since last summer
Similar sentiments have been brewing in Hoyerswerda recently as well
According to Germany's domestic intelligence agency
the Office for the Protection of the Constitution
It is not unusual for Hoyerswerda to make headlines with fresh racist attacks
A Facebook page titled "Just Say No to the Hostel in Hoyerswerda" already has more than 2,100 likes
The NPD has also mailed out pamphlets about the asylum-seeker hostel
And xenophobic stickers have been applied to walls and lampposts
of the group Hoyerswerda Helps with Its Heart
says the prejudicial stickers don't stay up for very long
"Our people and many others scratch them off," he says
The Protestant reverend was one of the first members of the group
which was founded in November just a few weeks after the news went public that a new asylum-seekers hostel is being planned
The group's aim is to help inform both asylum-seekers and local residents about developments
"Right now we're working on a city map in six languages for refugees to show them how to find the police and other important authorities," he says
Hoyerswerda residents can also subscribe to a newsletter or call the group's hotline to get their questions answered
the group plans to hold an open house at the asylum-seeker's hostel after it opens
Michel says his impression so far is that the majority of local residents aren't even interested in the issue of the hostel
"They're registering it and moving on with their normal business," he says
District officials say they chose the city because a school belonging to the county had closed
enabling them to save money and that the xenophobic attacks in 1991 in Hoyerswerda played no role in the decision
"We have to find some place for people to live," says Gernot Schweitzer of the county administration
The county is also seeking to open other accommodations for asylum-seekers in other cities
county officials say they are contacting local residents and educating them about the facilities
"We need to be good about communicating," he says
He adds that local residents should be given the opportunity to become better acquainted with how their new neighbors in the community live
Preacher Michel also feels strongly there's no chance of the events of 1991 recurring in the city
"There was considerable turmoil after the Berlin Wall fell -- many people were unsettled
and even the police didn't know exactly what they had authority over." He believes there was a feeling at the time that people couldn't truly express themselves -- a situation that no longer exists today
"Today we can show Hoyerswerda's better face," he says
police in Hoyerswerda sealed off steets in the city
City officials responded by relocating the refugees
Radicals even attacked the buses that were driving the asylum-seekers away
The ugly attacks became an international scandal
will now become the site of the first asylum-seekers' housing since the 1991 attacks
Construction is currently being carried out
and the first residents could move in by the end of the month
A former classroom is given a fresh coat of paint
The furniture also orginates from the school classrooms
Remodeling work inside the school building: A picture of the continent of Africa hangs on the window
Books and games are stacked up on the floor in the disused school
Director Jeff Bullock said the zoo is working to import a male leopard from Zoo Hoyerswerda in Germany and is currently waiting on permit approval from the U.S
it’s just a matter of managing the logistics of transferring him to Greenville," Bullock said in a release Monday
Zoo Hoyerswerda’s 10-year-old male leopard is part of the cooperative breeding program for Amur leopards
He was recommended to be transferred to the Greenville Zoo specifically to breed with Jade
“The Amur leopard is probably the most endangered species that the Greenville Zoo works with,” Bullock said
“This is a very important move for the population
as it will introduce another bloodline into the North American population.”
It's estimated that roughly 65 Amur leopards exist in the wilds of Eastern Russia
About 190 leopards live in captivity in Asia
There have only been 14 Amur leopard births in the last year
Jade recently became the zoo's sole leopard after her sisters Emerald and Clover were transferred to other zoos as part of their species' breeding program
FLOOD RECOVERY:Farmers applaud as House overrides Haley farm aid veto
Emerald left Greenville Friday for the Sedgewick Zoo in Wichita
Clover was transferred to Roosevelt Park Zoo in Minot
The triplets came to the Greenville Zoo in 2011 and were to stay here until they matured
The zoo has been a longtime supporter of Amur leopard conservation efforts
“The public will be hearing a lot more about the conservation efforts going on at the Greenville Zoo
as we have taken a long look inward to focus on why we’re here,” he said
Germany -- A small Slavic minority in eastern Germany is keeping alive a long
intricate tradition of hand-painted Easter eggs that's been passed down by Sorbian families for generations
At an Easter egg market in Elsterheide near the Saxon town of Hoyerswerda
around two dozen egg painters showed off their trade on Sunday...The Associated PressAndre Sibilski fixes Easter eggs on a robina tree with currently 7,000 painted Easter eggs in Saalfeld
A team of so-called Friends of Saalfeld's Easter egg tree continue the yearly tradition with up to 10,000 Easter eggs
around two dozen egg painters showed off their trade on Sunday
Werner Zaroba said he learned the craft from his grandparents
"we would paint the eggs to give them to our godparents as an Easter present."
then using fine knives he scratches delicate patterns on the surface of the eggshell
Zaroba says it takes him up to seven hours to decorate one egg alone
Connect with the Southeast Missourian Newsroom:
Ferat Koçak’s car was set on fire in Berlin’s diverse Neukölln neighborhood
a revived version of the neo-Nazi group the National Socialist Underground
while at his parents’ house in Berlin with his family
he saw that his car was engulfed in flames
He called the fire department and rushed his family out as the blaze from the car spread toward the building
Even before he received information from the police
a German of Kurdish descent with a long beard dyed in the anti-fascist colors of black and red
was certain what had happened: He was being targeted by the far right for his anti-racist
A Google Images search of him later revealed that this ensemble—paired with Adidas Sambas and occasionally a cap and scarf—is his typical look
He had told the story of that night to German media countless times
We were sitting in the office common room of Die Linke
just off a leafy cobblestone street in Neukölln
the neighborhood where Koçak lives and where
It’s a neighborhood that’s important to him
His Twitter handle is “der_neukoellner”; until recently
he also went by this name on the encrypted messaging app Signal
A year after the attack, in March, Berlin’s Criminal Investigation Department received an anonymous email that seemed to confirm Koçak’s suspicions
claimed to be a member of NSU 2.0—a revived version of the National Socialist Underground
a neo-Nazi group responsible for at least 10 murders between 2000 and 2007
Koçak was the perfect choice for a neo-Nazi: He is an ethnic minority who is also a vocal anti-racist activist; he is a left-wing politician
He took the fire as a warning to get him to stop his political work and activism
after his mother had a heart attack in the days following the fire
following an uptick in immigrants fleeing a civil war in Syria
But these seemingly well-intentioned policies have created dangerous situations where people of color are forced to reside in regions that may be hostile to their presence
and where they face greater threats from neo-Nazis and fascists
The neighborhood is among the most diverse in the city
Middle Eastern and Vietnamese restaurants line the streets between pockets of cafés and bars frequented by the city’s creative class of artists
and young people who want to associate with that milieu
neo-Nazis roaming Neukölln might be akin to a right-wing paramilitary cell maintaining an organized presence in demographically diverse artist havens like Bushwick
if the neighborhood is diverse by German standards
it is nevertheless predominately and historically white
Koçak believes that the violence is a racist reaction to recent demographic shifts
Rising rents in Berlin’s bohemian former punk hub
white German creatives into North Neukölln
displacing that neighborhood’s immigrant population further south
“South Neukölln is not like North Neukölln
“The gentrification in the north changed the population in the south
This was one reason they started the attacks.”
And even asylum seekers who avoid violence in Germany must still face difficult living conditions and years of isolation trapped in inhospitable small towns
As the far right and the neo-Nazi movement it harbors burgeon in Germany
“They are zones to which foreigners have limited (or no) access.”
Novotný traces the history of far-right extremists’ no-go zone aspirations in Germany back to the ’90s
decades before conservatives popularized their own version of the term
and the population either have enough neo-Nazis in their ranks to enforce the boundaries of the no-go zone or contain a critical mass of sympathetic locals who turn a blind eye to the violence used
This conception is a grim neo-Nazi pipe dream
But evidence suggests that something resembling the no-go zone has existed in parts of Germany
A 2007 report conducted by the Office for the Protection of the Constitutional Order in the German state of Brandenburg counted 17 of what it called “fear zones.” According to Novotný
the report describes the areas as “zones where extremists have managed to cut out all other groups from participating in social life,” and where the far right has “excluded other (non-neo-Nazi) groups from participating in or attending any cultural or other activities.”
They didn’t want to lend credence to the idea that neo-Nazis had gained enough power to determine who gets to travel in and out of some areas; in a certain way
to do so would be to shore up neo-Nazis’ story of their own success
But they were also reluctant to totally deny the existence of such regions
The fact that people of color often live in or near areas that could be considered no-go zones makes discerning the boundaries of these areas even more challenging
Johannes Kiess, a professor of sociology at the University of Siegen in Germany who studies right-wing extremism and its impacts, summed up this tension. Take the town of Bautzen, known as a rural right-wing stronghold in eastern Germany
“I don’t reinforce the right-wing narrative that there’s a no-go area in a town like Bautzen,” Kiess said
because “that’s exactly what they want.” What’s more
although there is a strong far-right presence
neo-Nazis “are not everywhere.” At the same time
Different people also experience different Germanys
Whereas I and other people of color take trains freely around the country
because there are a lot of areas between Leipzig and Berlin where Nazis live.”
sending asylum seekers to different regions according to quotas calculated by tax receipts and population numbers
second only to the center-right Christian Democratic Union
It is also the second-most-represented party in the eastern German states of Brandenburg
While it was founded as a conservative party
taken over by an insurgent internal wing that established a firmly antisemitic
“Far-right extremism and far-right terrorism are currently the biggest danger for democracy in Germany.”
The German reunification process was a flash point for the ascent of German neo-Nazis. One of the highest-profile attacks happened in 1991 in Hoyerswerda
where neo-Nazis invaded buildings where Vietnamese and Mozambican workers were living
an onslaught that eventually escalated into a full riot
230 foreigners had to be bused to a nearby army base for their safety
Violence to that degree hasn’t recurred in Hoyerswerda since 1991
but in 2006 the youth wing of the NPD held a commemorative demonstration
the result of an amendment to Germany’s Basic Law that limited who is eligible
Asylum seekers still face abuse from racists in the general population
they also suffer abuse from the government
Schmidtke was on his way to a weekly meeting for female asylum seekers who had been placed in Hoyerswerda
where they lived in what he referred to as a “camp”—crowded
dorm-style living quarters in which multiple families are packed on each floor
The recurring meeting was set up by a local civil organization as a space for the women to gather with one another
and sometimes to speak with local volunteers and social workers such as Schmidtke
But it was as much a refuge for the women away from their cramped living quarters
a place to commiserate over coffee and pastries
Hoyerswerda is not particularly picturesque—there is little charming Bavarian architecture and few of the quaint old churches we usually associate with small German towns
I’d worried that the refugees might be apprehensive about talking to a journalist
out of fear of jeopardizing their asylum status
they were—the names by which I refer to them here are pseudonyms—but most were eager
in the hopes that someone out there might be able to do something to make their lives less harsh
Among the two dozen or so women at the meeting
two felt comfortable enough with their English to speak to me: Isha from Pakistan and Samina from India
and their asylum status had been stuck in indefinite limbo for more than half a decade
Isha recalled the hostility she faced in Hoyerswerda before she even made it inside the camp
She wasn’t sure where to get off the bus and asked the driver if he could help
He told her to “speak Deutsch” and get her kids off his bus
Though Isha and Samina said that they felt on edge around Germans in Hoyerswerda—people are often cold
and sometimes outright antagonistic—the bulk of their tribulations has come from Saxony’s government
aspects of the asylum process that Schmidtke
and Samina recounted sounded more like a sadist’s fantasy vision of a Kafkaesque bureaucracy than rational immigration policy
While most people in the camp are stuck in asylum limbo—not deported but also not granted residency status or sometimes even the ability to leave—a few occasionally choose another option: the hardship commission
But this path is like making a double-or-nothing bet with your immigration status
The hardship commission is widely considered a last hope for appeal
The Ministry of the Interior and Sports of Lower Saxony found that
the rejection rate for hardship cases averaged 43 percent between 2016 and 2020
It’s possible this number is higher in states
For those who opt out of the hardship commission route
their passport becomes effectively meaningless
Asylum seekers whose applications are denied
receive a state-issued document commonly known as a Duldung
The ID has a large red line across it signifying “a temporary suspension of deportation,” which means
that while its holders get to stay in Germany
experience significant negative mental health outcomes
A 2017 paper—straightforwardly titled “‘It’s Like Fighting for Survival’: How Rejected Black African Asylum Seekers Experience Living Conditions in an Eastern German State”—found that eastern Germany consistently forces refugees to endure abysmal accommodations
Twelve Black Africans living in refugee accommodations in an unspecified eastern state described similar situations to the Hoyerswerda camp: stuck in their camps for years at a time
sharing a single room with as many as six others and sharing a stove and a single bathroom with many more
Isha’s husband was not granted the same asylum-seeking status she was and was barred from entering the country
He told her and the kids to go without him
when will Papa come here?’” For most of our conversation
“My husband has applied to come here so many times
Isha was only one of multiple women who broke down in front of me as they recounted their time at the camp
She didn’t speak English but was undeterred
so I pulled up Google Translate on my phone
translated “What do you want to talk about?” into Somalian
I have a little boy here who is sick,” the translation of Somalian read when she handed it back
“I have diabetes and high blood pressure.” Typing messages in Google Translate was a strained way to hold a conversation
She was facing the same problems as Samina and Isha: cramped quarters and declining health
“You have a hard job,” I said to Schmidtke as we walked out of the center
because a lot of people actually have to live it,” he said
I know that I’m just there for a couple of hours
I don’t have to live like they do.” Schmidtke paused for a second to consider what he’d said
“That’s why a lot of people quit this job after a couple of years.”
in protest of the party voting with the AfD in Thuringia
But other centrist party leaders have tried to make even more aggressive anti-immigration
a nonprofit group focused on tracking the rise of right-wing extremism in Saxony
explained that he’s frequently observed immigration officials singling out minorities
sits on a major railroad route for refugees coming out of Ukraine
police usually check only the documentation of Black people
“despite the fact that there are a lot of other refugees on the train,” not least Ukrainians fleeing the war
The eastern states of Saxony and Mecklenburg-Vorpommern
the asylum seekers I met had won an immigration lottery by being allowed into Germany in the first place
But even though this might have been true on paper
“It was not a good decision to come here,” Isha told me
In 2018, when the AfD held a rally in Berlin
the party’s 5,000 supporters were drowned out by 25,000 counterprotesters
People with whom I spoke in Germany expected an AfD rally scheduled for the first weekend in October last year to go similarly
At the rally, thousands of AfD supporters looked on at a small stage just in front of the Reichstag. German flags stuck up above the crowd. A smaller number of people waved flags for the AfD stronghold states of Thuringia and Saxony. A noticeable number also held up Russian flags. Less fashionable and more conventional than typical Berliners, the people in the crowd looked something like those I was used to seeing in suburban Texas.
I wandered around trying to speak to rallygoers, but was met with a dour and suspicious “Nein” every time I asked if they spoke English and were willing to answer questions—unusual for Berlin, where more than half the population speaks English, often fluently. I was the only person of color I could see as I walked from group to group, though Koçak later told me he was surprised to see a few people of color in the part of the rally where he was.
Although everyone I tried to speak with was nice enough besides their terseness, after 20 minutes, my self-preservation instinct kicked in. I stuck out like a sore thumb. I headed to a back corner of the rally, where some other journalists I knew had stationed themselves.
her starchy white pinafore gleaming against the powder blue sky
which adorns the entire facade of a tower block in Germany's former communist east
will more than likely head for the horizon
joining the more than a million-strong exodus from the former German Democratic Republic since the Berlin wall crumbled
Beset by rampant unemployment and shrinking population
the eastern states of Germany are suffering a deep-seated malaise
The symptoms are easy to spot: empty streets
social problems and a burgeoning sympathy for the far right
All these problems are apparent in Hoyerswerda
a small town in the deep east of the country not far from the Polish border
Back in the days of communism it was home to a coal mining company that lured workers from far and wide
Today it is better known for dereliction and decline - since the Berlin wall came down in 1989
said he would leave today if he had the money
"Most of my friends have moved if they can
Here there is no work about," he said
"I did my back in working in the mines but even if I was healthy
About one in four people are unemployed in Hoyerswerda - three times the average rate in west Germany
Reports suggest that the real jobless figure
including those on retraining schemes or early retirement
Such bleak prospects mean that people of working age continue to pack their bags and look for a brighter future elsewhere
Combined with Germany's falling birthrate and ageing population
this is having a devastating effect on the local social structure
are over-represented among those migrating
What they leave behind are towns littered with empty buildings
places where high streets have the atmosphere of an out of season resort
The trend makes a mockery of Chancellor Helmut Kohl's post-reunification promises of "blossoming landscapes" in the east
statistics show a wide gap in opportunities and income
This discrepancy has occurred despite the huge cashflows eastwards since reunification
But public opinion in the west has turned against the hefty subsidies
with especially harsh criticism coming from poorer western regions - places that have home-grown problems of industrial decline and migrating populations
Today state funds target a small number of thriving eastern towns and cities known as "lighthouses"
These are the exceptions to the trend of eastern gloom
places like the booming urban centres of Jena and Leipzig and those in parts of Saxony that have earned the region the name Silicon Saxony
Here the local community bears all the hallmarks of the economic slump
widespread disillusionment has created a fertile breeding ground for rightwing extremists
the town came to epitomise the post-reunification rise in racist violence after crowds of neo-Nazis attacked a home for asylum seekers
injuring 30 people in successive days of clashes
Statistics show that the extreme right is a stubborn headache for many of the former communist states
Recent months have seen an increase in violent crimes committed by neo-Nazis - and
support for far-right groups has propelled them into the political mainstream
In September the NPD (National Democratic party of Germany) won seats in Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania's regional parliament after taking a surprising 7% of the vote
which has praised Hitler and has an openly racist stance
is also represented in the local parliament in Hoyerswerda's state of Saxony
painted a bleak picture: "Anyone who is young and active leaves
Left behind are the social problems: drug abuse
There's a deep feeling of hopelessness."
she has worked with young people to find different uses for the newly emptied parts of the town centre
one of the 50s and 60s tower blocks that were erected during the boom years of the coal mining firm Black Pump - the former motor of the local economy
who moved to the New Town with her parents in 1968
"These blocks were once the epitome of modern living," she said
some 6,000 New Town flats have been demolished and many others stand empty
A stone's throw from the father and child mural
bulldozers shift piles of rubble that include twisted window frames and lumps of wallpapered concrete
There are new grassy patches of wasteland where family homes once stood
the streets winding off the main square in the Old Town are freshly anointed in pastel shades
For every shop that is open there is another one boarded up or with a To Let sign
One handwritten sign reads: "To rent immediately - very cheap"
Ms Baumeister said the closure of shops was something the city would have to get used to
"Here politicians still talk about growth," she said
It's a painful process but it is the reality
But while demographers and politicians fret about the east's future
environmentalists point to a silver lining
dust from coal mines dyed snow settling in Hoyerswerda a dirty charcoal
Today east Germany's fresh air and low population density is attracting new inhabitants - wolves and lynxes are back
Former eastern states are also witnessing the fledgling development of ecotourism
has discovered a new sense of purpose as a green haven for city dwellers
Hoyerswerda's town mayor, Horst-Dieter Brähmig, who has just retired, sees tourism as a big chance for his region. He describes the process of depopulation as a "growing-up phase that we can deal with" and hands over glossy brochures about a venture to create Europe 's largest artificial lake district
golf and science-fiction floating holiday apartments are all featured
"Tourism was never our big plan but this is a great opportunity
We've already had a rise in the number of visitors to the area," said Mr Brähmig
Karl looked sceptically at the glossy tourist pamphlet
"That isn't the Hoyerswerda that we know," he said
"If I was going on holiday I'd rather go to Spain."
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A white Bennett's kangaroo has been born at Hoyerswerda Zoo
The one and a half year old mother named Schneeflöckchen is also an albino
The young animal has spent a lot of time sleeping in its mother's pouch
A white Bennett's kangaroo has been born at Hoyerswerda Zoo
the birth took place around eight months ago
"It has only been apparent since around the beginning of January that Flöckchen's cub also has white fur," said zookeeper Ronny Häusler on Wednesday
the offspring had occasionally poked its head out of the pouch
the cub is still quite sleepy and enjoying its time in its mother's pouch
"Not much longer and the cub will be too big for the pouch
Then we can also see what sex the offspring is."
Schneeflöckchen came to the Lusatian Lakeland from Tabor Zoo in the Czech Republic in May 2023
She integrated quickly and well into the group and got used to living with emu lady Hilde
there are now seven kangaroos living in the accessible enclosure at Hoyerswerda Zoo
Nothing is known about the kangaroo's father
It is therefore also unclear whether he is also an albino or whether the mother's genes have proved to be dominant
Schneeflöckchen probably came to Hoyerswerda when she was already pregnant
Kangaroos can delay the birth of their offspring if living conditions are not suitable
Bennett's kangaroos - also known as red-necked wallabies - originate from south-eastern Australia and Tasmania
They owe their name to the reddish-colored fur on their neck and shoulders
Albinism is a rare phenomenon in the animal kingdom
they are often the target of potential predators
there is a large population of white Bennett's kangaroos on Bruny Island in southern Tasmania
The kangaroos there have no predators and can pass on the mutation from generation to generation
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In The Electronic Revolution (1970)
Burroughs describes how cut-up tape recordings turn sounds into political weapons
He sums up this approach in a powerful image: “Riot sound effects can produce an actual riot in a riot situation
brought about severe legal restrictions of the basic right to asylum
Right wing ideas even started spreading in the music scene
the male was once again the hunter and the female’s place the kitchen—notions I thought long overcome by my parent’s generation
Atari Teenage Riot sought confrontation with the audience from the start
The constant hugging and “we all love each other” attitude that defined the techno scene did not reflect the political reality
was a direct response to the racist attacks of Hoyerswerda
It basically sounded like Underground Resistance with breakbeats
We considered the sound of Detroit the only aspect worth maintaining within techno music
which became more and more chart-orientated
minimalist style accurately conveyed the way we felt
we always thought in terms of cinematic concepts
We saw ourselves as film characters and tried to translate those into music
We never just met in the studio to make music
We meticulously constructed our music from the very beginning
We wanted to turn emotions into sound and we wanted people to understand these emotions
This can only be achieved through deliberate musical translation
Berlin’s image abroad resembled a setting for Blade Runner
Americans and Japanese thought of the reunited Berlin as a bizarre projection
a post-apocalyptic wasteland populated by carnival characters in fantastical uniforms
And Atari Teenage Riot provided the suitable soundtrack.
The breakbeats kept getting faster and harder
“Tötenposse Rides Out” from my 1992 EP SuEcide already had 172 bpm
a quantum leap compared to the usual 120-130 bpm in techno or 140 bpm in British breakbeat
slicing them up and changing them around so we wouldn’t always have to set up shop with the same old loops
People thought it sounded like a cross between breakbeat and hardcore and started calling it breakcore
It didn’t sound good and it didn’t get the point of a digital
From these considerations the idea for Digital Hardcore emerged as a name for both the genre and the label
At first we were still mixing the breakbeats pretty far behind the 909 kick drums
close to how UR did it when using a breakbeat
It might have sounded a bit trashy with UR
but nowhere near as distorted as became our habit
As a former punk rock guitarist I knew we could turn up the energy this way
By distorting digital sounds with analogue effects they gain more overtones and become fatter and more extreme
similar to how punk bands traditionally mixed their music
That’s what distinguished ATR from the usual techno productions of the time
you have to focus on a frequency range between 1 and 5 kHz
the sounds of Low On Ice have always reminded me of John Carpenter film scores
I created those sounds by manipulating reverbs
And I did it with the kind of equipment traditionally used in acid house productions
A lot of people thought Low On Ice to be a techno album
but there’s actually not one straight bass beat on it
nothing you can directly associate with techno
but quite the opposite: deceleration and isolation
Imagine skating on thin ice and breaking through
You can’t find the hole anymore and slowly drift with the current beneath the ice
The sun is still shining but there’s no way back
That album is still valid for me to this day as a commentary on the techno euphoria back then
In 1995 it was obvious to me that techno was over
techno meant exploring a new musical world nobody knew yet
And that is still my basic idea: there is a goal which is not clearly defined
and we want to get away from things being defined and predetermined
we have to create soundscapes that are no longer based on last century’s pop music principles
I consider pop and mainstream music strategies of exclusion: minorities have to adapt if they want to participate
Pop advocates like to claim that pop is for everyone
But they can be dissipated by a new kind of music
Read our evolving archive of Berlin’s musical history by visiting our Berlin Experiment page
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In a new series on our sporting legends and their feats of yesteryear
motorcycle racing hero Brian Reid looks back on his rough and ready route to the top as a double World champion
All smiles: Brian Reid at home with long-term partner Lynn in Banbridge
Old habits: Brian Reid on an RG500 Suzuki for the parade lap at the Tandragee 100
Our Sporting Lives and Times with Jim GraceySat 9 Sep 2017 at 03:30What a week for the Reid family
rides Dr Devious to victory in the Epsom Derby
rides his Yamaha to victory in the Isle of Man Junior TT
by that era's first cousins of Northern Ireland sport
It would be a sensation now in today's multi-media world
But to two men with their spiralling sporting futures quite literally in their hands
That is if you consider normal for jockey John
first past the post in 40 top class Group One races and a 1988 Arc De Triomphe success on Tony Bin
many hundreds of motorcycle race wins on roads and circuits worldwide
earning him the nickname 'Speedy Reidy' and
those Formula Two World title wins on the roads in 1985 and '86
They thought their races would run and run
But the end came in painfully similar circumstances and
A bad fall from his mount in a 1999 race first put retirement on John's radar
But he recovered from his injuries and saddled up again for another two years before bowing out to become President of the Jockeys' Association in 2001
his bike hit the wreckage from a crash that claimed the life of the rider in front of him
we sip coffee in the kitchen of his secluded country home in the hills between Dromore and Banbridge
as Brian (60) recalls the aftermath of that dark day that ensured he would never race again
I was in a wheelchair for three months and in such poor shape
I couldn't even clean my teeth by myself," he says
"In 20 years of racing bikes and occasionally coming off them
I'd a good career so at least I had a wealth of memories to ease me into retirement."
Lynn succumbed late to the motorcycle racing bug
meeting Brian at her first event at Kirkistown
going along with a friend as a reluctant spectator
The answer is in a lasting relationship over three decades during which Lynn grew to love bikes as well
steadfastly supporting Brian and now their son Simon (21)
currently leading the Irish Short Circuit Championship
Simon also runs a Barista in Newry while another son
is a personal trainer and self defence instructor
did the couple have any qualms about Simon following in his tyre tracks
Lynn nods in agreement as Brian relates: "When Simon announced he was going to race bikes
'Are you sure?' I explained how difficult a sport it was and he already knew the dangers
he has the passion and we are supporting him in the same way my mother and father
"Of course we are nervous but he showed he has talent by winning the Ulster Schools and Irish Motocross Championships and he has converted that to tarmac racing."
Brian's decision to hurtle between the hedges at 100mph-plus would have been more of a surprise to the late Winnie and Drew Reid
who shared cousin John's interest in a different kind of horsepower
McGregor was one of road racing's famed Dromara Destroyers of the '70s and '80s
alongside Raymond McCullough and Trevor Steele
and it was a dream come true for Reid to graduate into their ranks as he grew up to make his own name in the sport
He recalls: "I was only three or four when I began watching Ian
I really looked up to him and he took me everywhere
I couldn't wait to become a racer in my own right and I always remember my first race at St Angelo airfield in Fermanagh in 1976 followed by my first road race in the Killinchy 150 at Dundrod on a 250 Yamaha."
it was four years before Reid recorded his first road race win on a 125 Morbidelli at Carrowdore
I was a rank amateur with just a car and trailer to transport my 250 Yamaha
That's how it was for most of the riders in those days
"Joey was the only one who had proper support
He could always get his bikes funded and I realised if I was ever going to get anywhere in this game
his first attempt at the famed Isle of Man course ending in a spill at Cruickshanks Corner in the 1978 Manx Grand Prix Newcomers race
But his star was in the ascendancy and by 1981
with support from the late Mick Mooney of Irish Racing Motorcycles who provided him with a 350 Yamaha
Reid created history as the first rider to win three Irish road racing championships in the same year
And soon it was decision time… his home-based engineering business or a full-time career racing bikes
"I had to make a choice and my passion took over," he explains simply
That choice was Reid's and motorcycle racing's gain
To this day he is revered by fans of the sport
and always visible to them at the North West
A man who quite literally left skin in the game also remains a staunch supporter of road racing in the face of increasingly vociferous opposition when fatalities
"Racing started the minute the second bike was built and it will never stop," he contends
"Racers have an inbuilt desire to go faster than the next guy
to get the best out of their machines and to win races
You can never make it completely safe but everyone involved knows and accepts the risks."
yet he experienced his share of spills as well as thrills
the worst being his career-ending accident and the high point his first World Championship win in 1985
"I had raced in Barcelona and won in the last but one round
I was leading the World Championship but had to wait six weeks for the next and final round which was the Ulster Grand Prix at Dundrod," he reflects
everyone was making me favourite so there was a great deal of expectation
That made the wait even more nerve-wracking
"Thankfully it did go well and I got across the line for the greatest feeling of my racing career."
followed by a second World title a year later
has become legend in motorcycle racing conversation
he was being talked about as our only living
double World champion until he was joined on the pantheon by young Jonathan Rea and soon the lad from Ballyclare will earn his own place in history with a third successive World Superbike title virtually secured
there is a genuine admiration and huge amount of goodwill towards the younger rider soon to overtake him
If that 1985 World title win was Reid's greatest moment
He explains: "I was watching on TV as Jonathan went out for the race to win his first World title in Spain two years ago and couldn't believe he was wearing my racing helmet
to take to Spain but thought it was to be a prop or for display
takes off the helmet and tells the TV cameras he is wearing it in tribute to me
What a thoughtful thing to do at a time like that."
It was a surprise but it shouldn't have been to a man who knew Rea was destined for the top from an early age
as he reveals: "My son Simon was on the Red Bull Rookies programme with Jonathan and it was clear he was not only an exceptional motorcycle racing talent
"Simon came back once from a trip to Spain to tell us how Jonathan had ordered a meal for them all in a restaurant - in Spanish
They were only about 14 or 15 and I remember thinking here is a lad preparing himself for bigger things and so he has proved
Reid lives comfortably these days in his old family home
spending his time in retirement restoring old racing bikes
"I came across it by sheer accident," he smiles
I traced the history back and was overjoyed to discover it was Tom's."
There is certain poignancy in his voice too as Reid discloses that he was close to the racing accident that claimed his friend's life at the North West in 1979
made a fortune from the dangers they faced
with their £100,000 all mod-con motorhomes
Reid does not begrudge today's generation their money or comforts
"Anyone who makes a good living from motorcycle racing deserves everything they get
who rates Michael Dunlop the greatest of today's road racers while advising we should keep an eye on up and coming English rider Peter Hickman
"I look at these guys now and how well they are treated
Even when we were going to win World Championships
we travelled in our vans with the bikes in the back
"Michael's uncle Joey had this old Mini with a removable front passenger seat he used to take out and replace with a plank which he slept on
I didn't mind travelling in vans but I didn't like sleeping in them
unique and down to earth for all his success
"Once he set out by fishing boat to the Isle of Man but didn't get out of Portavogie harbour where it sank - with one of my bikes on board
Joey and his brother Robert were rescued but the bikes were on the bottom
"So good luck to the lads today with all their comforts
how some of them can turn up just a few minutes before a race and throw a leg over a bike that has already been prepared for them
I always liked to see the bike I was going to ride
"The bikes were packed into the van outside our house the night before we were due to race at Aghadowey," he says
The police later called to say the van had been found crashed and the bikes were wrecked
"A Dutch mechanic we had at the time had taken the van
He just left a note to say sorry and scarpered."
he remains one of the rare head starts Speedy Reidy never caught up with.