Need To Know
words: Cat Wolinski
Read on for 11 more things you should know about Rodenbach
It’s thirst-quenching and light on the palate
despite its deep red color and complexity from mixed-fermentation barrel aging
At about half the alcohol by volume of wine
it’s a food-pairing beverage you can pour all meal long
The company was founded by the Rodenbach family in 1821 in Roeselare, Belgium, a town in West Flanders. It specializes in oak-aged mixed-fermentation ales, specifically the Flemish Red Ale
wine-like beer style now synonymous with the Flanders region
Sour ales are the only type of beer Rodenbach produces
Rodenbach is the most-awarded brewery in the world, a spokesperson tells VinePair. Its accolades began in 1894 at the World’s Fair in Antwerp, Belgium. More recently, in 2018, Rodenbach’s Vintage label was named the “World’s Best Sour Beer” by the World Beer Awards
To make Rodenbach, sour beer is aged for a minimum of two years in giant oak casks called foeders
The foeders are made with 150-year-old French oak
Each has the capacity of about 90 wine barrels
Rodenbach has 294 oak foeders on its premises
They hold what the company believes is the largest collection of wood-aged beer in the world
the brewery has its own coopers who build and maintain the enormous barrel collection
and Rodenbach Caractère Rouge is aged an extra six months with cherries
It was developed in 2011 in collaboration with two-Michelin-star chef Viki Geunes
has been an employee at the brewery for 37 years
he even lived at the brewery for several years
Legendary beer and whiskey writer Michael Jackson (note: not the King of Pop) was a Rodenbach “superfan,” a spokesperson tells VinePair
Jackson dubbed it “the most refreshing beer in the world,” thanks to its acidity
Rodenbach is not only responsible for popularizing Belgian sour beer. It allegedly played a role in the creation of Belgium itself. According to a video produced by the brewery
the Rodenbach family helped secure Belgium’s independence from the Netherlands in 1830
was in the military and fought on the front lines of the Belgian revolution
stood beside Leopold I when he was sworn in as the first King of the Belgians
“I think a lot of accidental infected beers came on the market as sour beer,” Rudi Ghequire said on the Craft Beer & Brewing podcast last year. “If I taste sour beer with dry hopping notes in it
Bitterness and sourness [do not] go together.”
In that case, we’d venture to guess he’s not a fan of sour IPAs
In January 2019, Rodenbach announced its first-ever collaboration beer with Dogfish Head Craft Brewery of Milton
Rudi Ghequire said in a press release that he found a “kindred spirit” in Dogfish Head
calling the partnership a “historic moment.”
Leave it to Rodenbach to keep making history
The Oxford Companion to Beer definition of
Rodenbach is a Belgian brewery located in the town of Roeselare
famed for its sour red ales
Ferdinand Rodenbach migrated to Flanders from the German Rhineland
His descendants immersed themselves in local commerce
and their brewing interests began when Pedro Rodenbach secured a partnership in a Roeselare brewery in 1821
who set the tone for the business’s development when he traveled to England and studied porter-making
The Rodenbach cellar in the Belgian town of Roeselar contains nearly 300 giant oak vats known as “foeders.” photograph by denton tillman
Today Rodenbach is part of the Palm Breweries group, whose main production center is at Steenhuffel, Belgium. See palm breweries
Palm (which is also part-owner of the Boon brewery
commissioning a new brewhouse and showcasing the remarkable cellar filled with nearly 300 giant oak vats
Known in Dutch as “foeders,” these range in capacity from 140 hl (120 barrels) to 650 hl (555 barrels)
Rodenbach beers are brewed from a blend of pale ale and colored malts
Top fermentation in cylindro-conical vessels with the Rodenbach mixed yeast culture leads to 4 weeks’ lagering in horizontal tanks
The beer is then transferred to the oak vats
some of which date back more than 150 years
where it is aged for up to 2 years at 59°F (15°C)
Microorganisms in the wood sour the beer and create a complex array of fruity esters
There are two main products from Rodenbach: Rodenbach Classic is a 5% ABV blend of young (un-soured) beer with aged beer
at a ratio of 1:3 [ratio should be 3:1 in favor of young beer]
See also flanders.
Toye, Jan.The world of Palm & Rodenbach. Steenhuffel, Belgium: Palm and Rodenbach Breweries, 2002.
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Henri and Nora are in love and share everything : she directs plays he performs in
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as well as representatives based in the U.S
The organisation currently brings together more than 1,000 French cinema and TV content professionals (producers
etc.) working together to promote French films and TV programmes among foreign audiences
the most awarded brewery in the world and makers of world-class beers in the traditional Flanders red style
announced today that its most sought after
RODENBACH ALEXANDER will now be available as a full-time offering in 4-pack
in addition to being available year-round on-draught
The highly acclaimed beer – RODENBACH Alexander – is a blend of 2/3rd aged RODENBACH (2-year matured beer from oak standing Foeders) and 1/3rd young ale
then macerated with sour cherries and an ABV of 5.6%
Originally brewed in 1986 to commemorate the 200th birthday of one of the brewery’s founding members – Alexander Rodenbach
Alexander Rodenbach ran the brewery starting in 1821 and went on to become a member of parliament
the brewery stopped production of RODENBACH Alexander
It became highly celebrated and in demand since being released annually in limited edition large format bottles beginning in 2016
“The consumer demand and interest for this beer has been outstanding since we re-launched it two years ago
with many stories of consumers traveling far distances to get their hands on a single bottle,” said David van Wees
“It’s an exceptional beer that deserves to be enjoyed year-round and we’re excited that more consumers will have the opportunity to enjoy a beer that pays homage to one of the brewery’s original founding members.”
RODENBACH Alexander be available full-time in 4-pack 11.2oz bottles and appear on store shelves beginning in June
2018 with a suggested retail price of $14.99
It is also available on-draught at bars and restaurants in 20L one-way kegs
BROUWERIJ RODENBACH is the most awarded brewery in the world
the maker of the original sour ale and the leading craft brewer of mixed-fermentation Flanders red-brown beer
Aged in the brewery’s 294 oak casks (“foeders”)
master brewer Rudi Ghequire uses a process called “positive selection” to craft a perfectly balanced and delicious beer that has received awards and accolades from beer lovers around the world
Latis Imports is the US Division of Bavaria
an independent 300 year-old family-owned brewery
run by the Swinkels family for seven generations
It is the only major brewery in the Netherlands that brews its beer with pure
natural mineral water from its own springs
Its portfolio of brands includes the iconic BROUWERIJ RODENBACH
PALM brewery and a variety of imported beers including Hollandia
Ridgefield-based Latis Imports is run by 25-year beer industry veteran David van Wees
who is responsible for expanding the Bavaria N.V
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Rodenbach first worked in the film industry as a production co-ordinator before joining leading German agency Players with a brief to work with young talent
who has starred in Berlinale title The Teachers’ Lounge and hit dramas The Swarm and Around The World In 80 Days
Rodenbach also reps actresses Martina Gedeck (The Lives Of Others) and Maria Dragus (Graduation)
Fabian: Going To The Dogs) and writer/director Azra Deniz Okyay (Ghosts)
preferring to offer a personal service to her clients
“I need the time to be there for my clients,” says Rodenbach
“I love to talk to them and help them with decision making.”
Rodenbach advises her clients to be patient and true to themselves when developing their careers
“It’s hard to do but sometimes it’s for the best and puts you in the direction you need to go
It can bring you more success than saying ‘Yes’ all the time.”
Producers and casting directors speak highly of Rodenbach: ‘She’s now repping a lot of really exciting actors - a lot of whom have left some other
very important agencies to work with her,” says one
“A young agency with talented clients,” is the verdict of another
Contact: mail@yumi-management.com
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Belgiumhttp://palm.be/en/rodenbach7 percent ABV
Rodenbach’s Vintage 2015 ale is a more refined version of its regular Flemish red ale
The Vintage is aged two years in oak casks
that between the aging and oak conditioning combine to provide better blending of flavors and an overall smoother brew (not that the regular red ale is any slouch)
the beer is actually more brown in color but does have bright red highlights when held to the light.
there were a lot of different and pleasurable flavors in the mix
caramel and a slight sourness that was more of a fruity apple-cherry tartness than vinegary
The fruit aspects and slight tartness define the term “lip-smacking.” I love how the tart fruit notes hit the tongue at first
then a little caramel sweetness appeared to soften that
then a dry finish cleansed the palate to prepare you for the next sip
the oak character did not have any burnt character
but gave off nice vanilla and wood flavors
although the ale does not contain any actual cherries
That is one of the wonders of master brewers using their expertise to manipulate malts and yeast to achieve the flavor profiles they want
I think the main difference between the Vintage and regular Rodenbach is that the caramel malt was more noticeable in the Vintage
and the oak flavor came out more without being overly woody
is really on a roll this year after releasing its Alexander and Fruitage beers.
Rodenbach is a subsidiary of the Palm brewery of Belgium
Its products are imported by Latis Imports of Ridgefield
and its Beer Finder link is at www.latisimports.com/beer-finder.
Beer Man sez: If you think Rodenbach makes a great Flemish red ale
check out the even more sophisticated improvements of its Vintage 2015
gets paid to drink beer and write about it for Weekend
He can be reached at beerman@postcrescent.com
Read past reviews at www.postcrescent.com/go-920/beer
Anderson Stevenson Wilke & Retz Funeral Home
Assisting the Montana communities of Helena
to Carl Rodenbach and Margaret McNichol in Quakertown
Some of Lisa’s favorite hobbies included running
bike riding as well as riding on the back of a motorcycle
Lisa is survived by her husband Jay Roberson
Children Ward Roberson and Shelby (Caleb) Gardner; her sister Phyllis (Jose) Coronado
and brother-in-law Mike Trees; and grandchildren Liam and Beau Gardner
She is also survived by her mother-in-law Emma Roberson and multiple nieces and nephews
Preceding Lisa in death are her mother and father Carl and Margaret Rodenbach
sister Mary Trees and her father-in-law Don Roberson
A Memorial Service will be held at 1:00 pm on May 21
at the Lincoln Community Hall located at 404 Main St
In Lieu of flowers please consider donating to one of the following:
Huntington’s Disease Research https://hdsa.org/get-involved/donation-opportunities/
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Read the thoughts and memories, then feel free to add your own.
We’re are so blessed by Lisa’s and Jay’s friendship over these years
His mercy and His preasence so real to all of you
we love your family & will be praying for all of you
May the Lord give you peace and strength for the days ahead
She was a sweet and graceful presence among us
We are so sorry to hear of Lisa’s passing
Over the years we seemed to always be neighbors and we remember Lisa going for a walk or run past our house
and Ward and other family and friends we offer our deepest condolences
You will be in our prayers Rest now sweet Lisa
you fought the good fight.Paradise is yours ❤️🙏
Lisa’s memory will be cherished for years to come
I enjoyed getting to know her as we had many conversations on the challenges of diabetes over the years
I wish the family peace and serenity in the months to come
Lisa was my boss for a few years and also a good friend
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Belgian craft brewery Rodenbach has made its cherry-flavoured craft beer
The beer is made from a blend of ripened and aged ale
processed through “meticulous” fermentation
“The main fermentation and warm maturation occur with top-fermenting yeasts at ambient temperatures between 15 to 25 Celsius,” explained the brewery
“Secondary fermentation takes place over a two-year maturation period in oak casks
facilitated by bacterial flora and wild yeasts present in the oak.”
These microorganisms initially produce organic acids
which are then transformed into fruity esters
Rodenbach Fruitage is available for an RRP of $17 for a four-pack and $84.99 for a case in Dan Murphy’s and BWS stores nationwide
Contact our editorial team
Octomedia publication
known and recognised around the world as the leading brewer of Flemish Red Brown Sour Ales
announced it will be investing heavily in its brands
markets and brewery infrastructure in Roeselare
All Rodenbach beers will undergo a redesign
and the brewery will receive a $3MM investment in its brewing technology
The all-new RODENBACH portfolio of beers: Rodenbach Fruitage
Rodenbach Vintage and Rodenbach Caractere RougeRODENBACH Grand Cru – new packaging and new Rodenbach glassware for optimal enjoyment
All Rodenbach beers will have a completely new design to create a sense of unity of the portfolio
will have a new look that pays tribute to the brand’s 200 year-old heritage of artfully brewing and crafting Flemish Red Brown Sour Ales while simultaneously introducing new consumers to the brand
Rodenbach ‘Classic’ is the new name for what was previously known as its session beer
Rodenbach Classic joins the new Rodenbach Fruitage in the brand’s ‘thirst-quenching’ category
Rodenbach Alexander and Rodenbach Caractère Rouge will also get a new packaging design and be designated as part of the brand’s ‘delicious’ category of beers
elegant stemmed glass at on premise locations
and are recommended with a variety of foods to enhance the flavors and optimize enjoyment
Labels for Rodenbach Classic and Rodenbach Fruitage will proudly use the ‘R’ as inspiration for the beer’s descriptor: “Red
Ripened and Refreshing.” Rodenbach Grand Cru
Rodenbach Vintage and Rodenbach Caractère Rouge will feature the wording “aged in oak foeders” which highlights Rodenbach’s 294 iconic oak vats (‘foeders’) and optimises the vinification and maturation process of all Rodenbach beers
along with a team of cellar masters monitor the quality of the beers throughout every step of the brewing process to create the ideal combination of expertise and pure enjoyment
Rodenbach will begin marketing and sales support under a new slogan ‘Rodenbach
cheers to the unexpected’ which aims to give beer connoisseurs the opportunity to discover the Rodenbach portfolio of beers
This campaign continues in the tradition set forth in 1821 when Rodenbach began surprising beer lovers everywhere
One of the most awarded beers in the world
Rodenbach is the undisputed market leader of Flemish Red Brown Sour Ales
97 and 96 points from Wine Enthusiast magazine and critical acclaim from All About Beer
About RODENBACH BreweryBrewed in Roeselare
BROUWERIJ RODENBACH is the maker of the original sour ale and the leading craft brewer of mixed-fermentation Flanders red-brown beer
Aged in the brewery’s 294 oak casks (“foeders”)
master brewer Rudi Ghequire uses a process called “positive selection” to craft a perfectly balanced and delicious beer that has received awards and accolades from beer lovers around the world
About Latis ImportsLatis Imports is the US Division of Bavaria
Its portfolio of brands includes the iconic Brouwerij RODENBACH
makers of world class renowned sour beers in the traditional Flanders red style
today announced a limited edition release of its legendary Alexander beer
available only in the United States beginning in April 2016
Rodenbach Alexander is a blend of 2/3rd aged Rodenbach (2 year matured beer from oak standing Foeders) and 1/3rd young ale
Rodenbach Alexander is offered in draught one-way kegs and 750ML bottles
adorned with the image of Alexander Rodenbach
one of the brewery’s founding brothers
“We were inspired to brew Rodenbach Alexander over two years ago
due in large part to the popular requests among beer connoisseurs
bar owners and beer lovers throughout the United States,” said Rudi Ghequire
“Rodenbach Alexander pays homage to one of our original founders
rewards our loyal customers and simultaneously allows a new generation of craft beer lovers to try our beers.”
Rodenbach Alexander is the first in a series of Limited Edition beers that will be presented in the Rodenbach Limited Edition Sour Series in 2016
a bottle and draught program with special sour brews from the Rodenbach brewery
“It’s an exciting time for beer lovers across this country,” said David van Wees
“Consumers are enjoying craft beers in record numbers and sour beers such as Rodenbach Alexander is something new and exciting to enjoy on their beer exploration journey.”
Brouwerij Rodenbach is the maker of the original sour ale and the leading craft brewer of mixed-fermentation Flanders red-brown beer
Latis Imports is a specialty beer importer and marketer focused on premium brews
Founded by industry veteran David van Wees
its portfolio includes Belgian beers such as Palm Ale
arguably the most awarded brewery globally
the leading brewer of oak-aged mixed-fermentation ale dating back to 1821 and an inspirational source for sour beer producers around the world
has announced an intent to brew a collaboration beer with Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
craft brewery and producer of the fastest growing beer in the fastest growing craft beer style in America
This news marks the first time RODENBACH has agreed to a collaboration brew in its nearly 200-year history
and a monumental step forward in bringing a unique sour beer to consumers who are seeking a refreshing alternative to what is currently available on the market today
Known and loved throughout Belgium for its deliciously refreshing qualities and an exceptional choice for pairing with a variety of foods
sour beer has become one of the fastest-growing segments in beer and is responsible for introducing new generations of consumers into the beer industry
“This is an historic moment for our brewery,” said Rudi Ghequire
“Not only is the time right for this partnership as sour beer has become more popular than ever before (thanks in large part to Dogfish Head’s SeaQuench Ale)
but we found an incredible partner and kindred spirit in Sam Calagione and the Dogfish Head brewing team
our breweries share many similar values and principles
From our independent and family-owned brewery to the spirit of collaboration among the people at our respective organizations
our shared appreciation and respect for quality ingredients
and how the coast influences both of our beers
We couldn’t have found a more perfect partner in our first collaboration voyage
“I have been a huge fan of Rodenbach beers since the early 2000’s when legendary beer writer
turned me on to them at the Brickskeller in DC
RODENBACH are the global pioneers in sour and wild beers production
Dogfish Head is proud to have the number one selling sour beer in America
So we have a lot to learn and explore together — and getting to know Rudi
David and the Rodenbach team has been rewarding and fun
I am confident we are going to make a beautiful
The idea of a partnership first came about following a panel discussion of leading sour beer experts at the Craft Brewer’s Conference in Nashville
Rudi Ghequire was joined by several sour beer brewmasters including Bill Marchi
Dogfish Head’s wild beer and barrel aged program
to discuss the nuances of traditional sour beers and the modern expressions showcased by Dogfish Head and others
“We’ve always had a deep appreciation for Dogfish Head and the beers they craft
and what they’ve been able to do with SeaQuench Ale is nothing short of spectacular,” said David van Wees
President of Swinkels Family Brewers Imports
and as we got to know one another we realized how similar our passions were about sour beer and its potential in the marketplace
We noticed striking similarities between our breweries – family-owned
independent and a deep expertise in brewing which got us talking and thinking that now is the right time for RODENBACH to take this step
and Dogfish Head was the perfect partner for us.”
visited the Dogfish Head facilities in Milton
Delaware to explore further and solidify plans
abundant creativity and an infectious passion for beer that exudes throughout their entire organization
it did not take long to finalize a plan for bringing a new beer to market
“We spoke a lot about how RODENBACH’s traditional methods of brewing and blending
dating back centuries would heavily influence the direction of the beer
and that began the foundation for our collaborative brainstorming,” added Van Wees
“It was amazing to watch these two icons work so closely together and see the magic happen as wheels started spinning about what a final product could look like.”
“We intend to take our time and get it right for a beer of this magnitude
and in order do that we have to go to where it all began – to Roeselare
explore the area’s culinary influence and experience the legendary brewery and cooperage which undoubtedly will serve as a huge inspiration behind the beer we create.”
the beer is planned to be brewed and blended in the United States in 2019 and available for an early 2020 launch for American consumers to enjoy
the duo will explore a release of the beer in Belgium
“We see great opportunity for the years ahead,” added both Ghequire and Calagione
“While we’re taking things one step at a time
we have great hope and expectations that this will be the beginning of a long-term relationship between our breweries for several years to come.”
Brewed in West Flanders region of Belgium since 1821
BROUWERIJ RODENBACH is arguably the most awarded brewery in the world
the leading craft brewer of oak-aged mixed-fermentation ale and revered by beer drinkers
The beer is aged among the brewery’s 294 oak casks (“foeders”) for a minimum of two years
before master brewer Rudi Ghequire expertly crafts a perfectly balanced and refreshing beer that pairs exceptionally well with food
First gaining international acclaim at the 1894 World’s Fair in Antwerp
RODENBACH has gone on to win Gold medals from the most reputable critics and publications in the world including its most recent accolade of World’s Best Sour Beer (2018
visit www.sfbimports.com or www.rodenbach.be or Instagram @RodenbachUSA
Dogfish Head has proudly been focused on brewing beers with culinary ingredients outside the Reinheitsgebot since the day it opened as the smallest American craft brewery 23 years ago
Dogfish Head has grown into a top-20 craft brewery and has won numerous awards throughout the years including Wine Enthusiast’s 2015 Brewery of the Year and the James Beard Foundation Award for 2017 Outstanding Wine
It is a 250+ coworker company based in Delaware with Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats
a geographically enamored seafood restaurant
a beer-themed inn on the harbor and Dogfish Head Craft Brewery
a production brewery and distillery featuring
Dogfish Head supports the Independent Craft Brewing Seal
the definitive icon for American craft breweries to identify themselves to be independently-owned and carries the torch of transparency
brewing innovation and the freedom of choice originally forged by brewing community pioneers
Dogfish Head currently sells beer in 44 states and Washington D.C
Twitter: @dogfishbeer and Instagram: dogfishhead
today announced its latest innovation with the arrival of RODENBACH Fruitage
RODENBACH Fruitage gets its name from aged-old brewing techniques
It’s an instant classic – comprised of 25% authentically aged RODENBACH (2-year matured beer from oak standing Foeders) blended with 75% young RODENBACH ale
with added fruit of cherries and elderberries
RODENBACH Fruitage is light and refreshing
perfect for easy drinking and to be enjoyed year-round
First Time RODENBACH is Offered in Cans in the United States
Tested in draught format late last year to rave reviews from consumers and beer professionals alike
RODENBACH Fruitage is the first and only RODENBACH offered in slim
and the first time any RODENBACH is available in cans in the United States
This innovation follows years of research and requests from consumers and beer professionals who have been requesting a RODENBACH beverage in a can format
it is approachably priced as compared to other premium imports
2017 and will be on store shelves in late May
2017 – just in time for the warm summer months
“This is an exciting new innovation in our legendary portfolio of beers
and we’re thrilled to offer this product in the United States,” said Rudi Ghequire
“RODENBACH Fruitage is a light and refreshing beverage that is full of flavor
perfectly balanced and compliments a variety of foods and occasions.”
“RODENBACH Fruitage opens the door to a new generation of craft beer drinkers to the legendary RODENBACH portfolio,” said David van Wees
“Consumers are seeking alternatives to the heavier beer selections
and RODENBACH Fruitage offers a lighter style of beer that is both refreshing and filled with flavor
in keeping with authentic RODENBACH brewing practices.”
Belgiumhttp://palm.be/en/rodenbach4.2 percent ABV
The famed Rodenbach brewery has released a new fruit ale called Fruitage that is its first canned beer in the United States
Rodenbach ales are known for a sweet-sour combination that is among the best in the world and lip-smacking fruitiness
The base ale is aged for two years in oak barrels before being blended with 75-percent young beer and the fruit
This method gives the beer a solid blended base offering subtle oak notes from the old beer and the fresh
The fruit makes up 9 percent of the ale — 7 percent cherries and 2 percent elderberries
providing a slight blackberry flavor with tartness
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The fruit gives the beer a dark red color with a pink lasting head
which is also in the background of the flavor
That is one area where most Belgian brewers outdo their American counterparts — they never forget the malt in beer
The only quibble I have with Fruitage is that it is sold in tiny 8.5-ounce cans — 12 would have been better; 16 even more
it is being sold in four-packs with a suggested retail price of $6.99
Another amazing fruit beer I came across recently was Frootwood (8-percent ABV)
I had it on tap at the Stein Haus in La Crosse
Frootwood is a bourbon barrel-aged ale made with cherries and maple syrup
with the maple balancing perfectly with the fruit and not being overly sweet or cloying
It also included whiskey and vanilla notes from the bourbon barrel
Founders is available in nearly every state and its Beer Finder link is at foundersbrewing.com/find-our-beer
Beer Man sez: Two fruit beers from Rodenbach and Founders show the delightful variety to be found with fruit beers
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The beer is already recognised as a regional product
but the European label will further protect the way it is brewed and its origin
Flemish red-brown beer is only brewed in eight breweries in West Flanders
An application has now been submitted to the European authorities to grant ‘Flemish red-brown beer' so-called Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status
This European recognition is given to agricultural products and foodstuffs that are typical of a certain region
the way it is produced and thus also its taste
As a result it is also an important quality label
Flemish agriculture minister Jo Brouns (Christian democrat) is confident that the application will be approved
‘Flemish red-brown beer is a unique type of beer characteristic of West Flanders
It is only brewed at a limited number of locations
The national authorities examined all conditions were met before the application was sent to the European commission
Recognition by the European authorities would be a nice confirmation of the quality work done by the producers.’
The application has been met with enthusiasm at the Rodenbach brewery in Roeselare
‘It would be nice to see our ‘Flemish red-brown beer’ on the list of products with a Protected Geographical Indication
'Traditional curdled milk tarts from Geraardsbergen and Brussels chicory are already on the list,’ says brand ambassador Didi Decaesteker
What makes the ‘Flemish red-brown beer’ so different from other beers is
but the way it is matured in upright oak barrels
‘That maturation method is unique in Belgian brewing culture,’ Mr Decaesteker explains
’and gives the typical mildly sour flavour
It also allows the beer to be stored for longer.’
grains and hops,’ Mr Decaesteker continues
as they provide a bitterness that slightly sour beers do not tolerate
Some brewers add another step to the brewing process and soak red fruits in the beer
Flemish red-brown beer needs to contain at least 3 per cent alcohol.’
Last year was a particularly challenging year for them
falling beer consumption at home could still be offset by larger exports
The Protected Geographical Indication could generate greater interest in Belgian beers and in West Flemish red-brown beer in particular
and Habesha brands from Swinkels Family Brewers into the United States
announces that a selection of Swinkels Family Brewers beer brands will be added to their portfolio starting September 2022
The Dutch family brewer oversees a range of beer brands that vary in style
The common thread across this portfolio is world-class quality
The United States import rights for Rodenbach
‘I’m very excited to announce our new partnership with Swinkels Family Brewers said BBL
‘The BBL team may be the most excited of-all about the news
Adding this unique selection of brands to our portfolio brings products that American consumers are excited for and are value added to our existing book.’ She continued
‘We’re thankful for the national network of distribution partners the Swinkels have built
We’re also very grateful for the groundwork and professionalism of our import colleagues at Artisanal Imports through this transition.’ She added
‘We are currently going through the diligence of reaching out to the established distribution network and working on a successful transition for growth in the coming years.’
‘This new relationship quickly unfolded into a natural fit for us’ David van Wees
North American President of Swinkels Family Brewers said
‘BBL’s close relationship with Brouwerij L
Huyghe aligns with our independent family-owned business philosophy.’ van Wees continued
‘Streamlining our international logistics with BBL’s existing portfolio
and BBL’s clear commitment to brand building gives us confidence for growth under this new partnership
Our importer relationships are built for the long-term
and BBL is giving us confidence in what’s to come
The brands in this new relationship are well-known to the US Market; maybe most of all
This Flemish Red-Brown Ale is a long-time darling of American Craft beer drinkers
Rodenbach’s range includes classic executions of the Flemish Red Style
Rodenbach’s brewhouse and 294 oak fermentation foeders are located at their brewery in the town of Roeselare
La Trappe is an ‘Authentic Trappist Brewery’
The beers have been brewed at Brouwerij de Koningshoeven in the Netherlands
under the watchful supervision of Trappist monks of the Cistercian order since 1884
and Quadrupel are currently their most visible brands in the US
a golden lager that is well known throughout the country as ‘Cold Gold,’ and the name itself is a term that indicates all Ethiopians are connected by their origin
Habesha has found targeted success in Ethiopian communities across America
Swinkels Family Brewers is a 100% independent family brewer that take pride in their three centuries of brewing heritage
Passing this heritage and respect for brewing onto the next generation is paramount in everything Swinkels Family Brewing does
BBL is currently the US Importer of Delirium Beers and other Belgian beer brands produced at Brouwerij L
Huyghe is also a family-owned Brewery stretching back four generations
with the fifth currently taking on brewery duties under his father
For More Information:https://swinkelsfamilybrewers.com/en.html
American small breweries are going through trends like a sports bar goes through Bud Light on a Sunday afternoon in September
saison and other once-obscure styles taken up by one brewer after another
until the next trend comes along and they all have to try that
Now the new thing appears to be Flemish-style sour ale
I’ve been an adventurous beer drinker for more than two decades
and until recently I knew of only one beer in this style: Rodenbach
from the West Flanders province of Belgium
two of our Rhode Island microbreweries came out with sour ales inspired by the Flemish style
Flemish red ale is one of the world’s most delicious beers
It combines the tartness of unripe fruit with the mellow
complex character that emerges from oak barrel aging
the style has been the sole province of traditional Belgian breweries with the old-fashioned patience to make beer with rare and difficult yeasts and store it in wooden casks until it is ready
the faint sound of cart wheels turning on the cobblestones outside
It’s not a scenario suited to modern business models
the Belgian examples of the style are far superior
Rodenbach (Brouwerij Rodenbach/Palm Breweries
Not for nothing is Rodenbach known as “the Burgundy of Belgium.”
the body medium-light and the carbonation small but fairly sharp
Lush sour cherry and unripe plum flavors are rounded by oak
caramel sugar and a slight hint of vanilla
Rodenbach is made from a blend of 75 percent young ale and 25 percent mature ale aged for two years
You’re not going to see this happen at a typical American microbrewery chasing a trend
It is expensive — I recently paid $16.50 for six
which come in a box — but Rodenbach is well worth the price
Vichtenaar Flemish Ale (Brouwerij Verhaeghe
Vichtenaar is much harder to find than Rodenbach and even more expensive ($19/four pack)
drinkers who love this style should try it
dark berries and sugar balanced by oak-mellowed malt and vinous microbrial flavors
Monk’s Cafe Flemish Sour Ale (Brouwerij Van Steenberge
Made in Belgium for a Philadelphia brewhouse called Monk’s Cafe
this scrumptious brew is in the Flemish oud bruin (“old brown”) style
although it’s the only Flemish beer I’ve found that puts the word “sour” in its name
one of the most delicious beers I’ve ever tasted
My quest for Flemish red ale led me to a wine-size bottle from
it makes sense that an artisanal brewer in a country not known for beer would gravitate toward the brew that most resembles wine
And this is the most wine-like Flemish-style red I’ve tasted
alcoholic tinge that comes from being aged in cognac barrels from Bordeaux
it’s a rare luxury for those who enjoy Flemish red
Samuel Adams Stony Brook Red (Boston Beer Co.
butter churn-shaped bottle comes Sam Adams’ version of Belgian sour ale
it “defies traditional beer style definition.” Stony Brook Red is crisp and tart
but more aligned with abbey dubbel ales like Chimay Rouge than the Flemish sour style
“Red sky at night” is said to be a sailor’s delight
but I found Ciel Rouge less a delight than the better-balanced
and the sharp acidity is hardly offset by deeper flavors
Ciel Rouge is very similar to Newport Storm’s Xavier
3 (go to NewportRI.com and search for “Beer Chaser”)
Grey Sail’s version looks fancier — it comes in a 750-ml champagne bottle — and is darker but only slightly more mellow
Although Xavier uses black cherries and Ciel Rouge apparently does not
to my taste they’re both too one-dimensional in their puckery sourness
People with acid-sensitive stomachs should steer clear
Perhaps some Belgian styles are best left to the Belgians
When Shock Top or Blue Moon comes out with a Flemish red
Beer Chaser runs the first weekend of each month
Gary Ruff is a copy editor for The Daily News
go to www.NewportRI.com and search for Beer Chaser
First look inside pFriem Family Brewers Milwaukie taproom
Alesong Brewing & Blending co-founder Matt Van Wyk tells us about a beer that consistently inspires him
Every beer drinker has that one beer they turn to time and time again
this beer is usually a staple of sorts or at least what one might call a “shelfie” in that it is readily and widely available
this is the beer that started it all for you
Perhaps it was a pioneering craft brew that enlightened you to the world of beer that actually tastes good
or perhaps it is a beer that made you completely rethink what you thought you knew about a particular style
this is a beer that made an impact on you and is burned into your taste buds forever
In our monthly column The Beers That Made Us
we talk with brewers about the beers that have made the biggest impact on them in terms of their personal taste and love of craft beer
as well as how it inspired their personal approach to brewing.
Since 2015, Eugene, Oregon’s Alesong Brewing & Blending has been quietly carving out a place as one of the premier breweries for barrel-aged beers in the Pacific Northwest
Alesong maintains a lowkey and somewhat underrated presence in the beer market
This might be because their operation is small
or because they are focused exclusively on barrel-aged beers
the small team knows how to make incredible beer
Much of the mastery at Alesong comes from the mind and talent of founder Matt Van Wyk
Originally from the Midwest where he got his start brewing
Matt eventually made his way to the Pacific Northwest and landed at Oakshire Brewing
much of it due to the brewery’s impressive barrel-aged beers
If you’ve had the pleasure of stopping by Alesong’s gorgeous taproom just outside of Eugene or the Alesong on 5th tasting room inside town
you have likely tasted a full array of Matt’s unique style as a brewer
This of course raises the question of what beers set this former science teacher on the path to barrel-aged greatness.
Matt Van Wyk (MVW): When I started drinking 'other' beer (there was not a lot of microbrewed
imports were the way to discover new beer flavors
I began trying and enjoying beers like Bass and Guiness
and soon graduated to drinking and homebrewing beers of the classic Belgian styles like Chimay
But when I stumbled upon Flanders red and brown ales
I [felt that] had found something so unlike any other beer I had ever drank
I knew I had to dig deeper to find out how to make something like this
MVW: Rodenbach Grand Cru holds a special place in my heart for three reasons
1) It was my first experience with sour beers
Since that is what we based half of our brewery on
2) It's a beer that I have yet to be able to master
I entered my first attempt at a Flanders-inspired beer in the Belgian sour category
the beer earned a silver ahead of a Dogfishhead and behind
I stumbled to the stage and mumbled something unintelligible to both Sam Calagione and Rudi Ghequire (brewmaster at Rodenbach). I still hope to speak with him outside of the starry-eyed ramble of that day sixteen years ago
Rodenbach Grand Cru was very influential because I had found a beer that was both sweet and sour
It is balanced in a way that many other beers are not
I know this is hard to achieve as mixed culture barrel-aged beers are typically dry and of course can continue to ferment and evolve in the bottle
It was also probably my first experience with aged beer and it opened my eyes to what you could do with oak aging
And it provided me a challenge to see if I could ever replicate those flavors myself
MVW: Rodenbach is a great beer for drinkers today
especially if you are new to sour and mixed culture beers. American brewers can make pretty sour beers and Rodenbach Grand Cru is a good 'introduction' to sour beers in general because it is balanced by so much sweetness and has more body than lambic beers. There is more flavor familiarity for a new-to-sour styles drinker to understand and appreciate
you might argue that the smoothie sour beers that are so popular with a subset of drinkers share some similar flavor hooks to Rodenbach
You just don't have to line up on a Saturday to get your allotment
and some light shines through Flemish red ales
we can be reminded that balance and going off the rails in one direction (sourness
etc) is not always the best formula for a pleasurable drinking session.
we make a series of dark sour beers that is inspired by Flemish Reds
We typically fruit it with cherries or raspberries
Originally from the tiny state of Rhode Island and spending his formative years in Austin
he has long focused his writing around cultural pursuits
Neil brings the same passion he has covering rock and roll to writing about the craft beer industry
A pacific northwest based webmag covering the craft beer and cider industry
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Longreads and photographic journeys documenting our ongoing worldwide adventures in beer
the former brewmaster of Colorado’s New Belgium Brewing Company
Inspired by the ranks of foeders at Belgium’s Brouwerij Rodenbach
where he’d brewed for a decade before moving stateside
and are most commonly used to ferment and age wine.
“He loved going to California and finding somebody telling him [...] Oh
I heard there's four of them that are going to be here; three of them are going to be here,’” says Lauren Woods Limbach
New Belgium’s wood cellar director and blender
“So he just became this foeder gatherer—he'd go out in the world
New Belgium has had its own so-called Foeder Forest
surrounded by over 750,000 liters of beer and bacteria spread across 65 foeders
As I paused next to a vessel twice my height
imagining I could hear the whirring and the chomping of so many bugs noshing on sugars and proteins within
I looked down at the pin on my denim jacket
one which New Belgium’s specialty brand manager Andrew Emerton had given me
The words “WTF is a Foeder?” looked back up at me
I could certainly recognize a foeder—I was standing next to one
And why do foeders suddenly seem to be everywhere
wooden vessels from pins (5.4 gallons) through kilderkins (roughly 22 gallons) and all the way up to tuns (303 gallons) held and matured beer
Written references to beer being stored in barrels date back to the 7th century
but beer was likely kept in wood long before that
Some say the English “invented” the acidification of beer in wood (though
given the high likelihood of the beer becoming infected with bacteria due to a lack of brewing understanding and sanitation
the phenomenon likely existed far and wide) as early as the 17th century
while others claim that the West Flanders tradition of dark acidic beer dates back to the 16th
Oral historians have it that Eugene Rodenbach traveled to England in the 1870s to study brewing techniques
“and it’s thought he may have visited Greene King to see how stale or stock ale was matured in wooden vats,” writes British beer writer Roger Protz.
Perhaps it seems unlikely that wooden vessels would continue to flourish today
in an era of stainless steel and painstaking lab testing
But foeders are an increasingly common feature in breweries across the world
that’s largely down to Bouckaert’s influence
and it’s likely that breweries in other countries have also followed suit
Even the proliferation and popularity of a certain style of foeder among modern brewers—the tall
slightly conical vessel seen in New Belgium’s Foeder Forest—can be traced via Bouckaert to Rodenbach
and they have all these foeders and I just asked them: ‘How come you decided to buy that shape?’ And they're like
you just emulate the thing that you see; sometimes you don't even ask yourself why you're doing it.”
As with their stainless steel counterparts
foeders don’t follow a one-size-fits-all rule—their varying shapes and dimensions suit different types of beer
flat top (as seen at New Belgium and Rodenbach) lends itself to sharp
A horizontal oval or cylindrical foeder is suited to fermenting and maturing Lambics.
dry spell—that they don't really have in Belgium as much
and your whole top loses a little bit of liquid and now that whole top is exposed to the air.” In an upright with a large surface area
even half an inch of evaporation can have drastic consequences on the beer: the acetic acid-producing bacteria Acetobacter thrives in oxygenated conditions
so even a miniscule reduction in volume could significantly alter the final product
“When you have one little tiny bit of evaporation
it just kind of touches the crest of the oval,” Limbach continues
“So you have this very little amount of exposure to oxygen and therefore you're definitely making a more Brettanomyces-forward and lightly lactic beer.” What this means
every single one of New Belgium’s foeders had a propensity for producing acetic beer—which is an ongoing problem when that’s not the desired result
I would take half of the uprights out and move these large ovals in
“or any of these things where you can try to just play around with all the different shapes and sizes.”
founder and president of Foeder Crafters of America
bowling game (and sessioning Oskar Blues Brewery’s Ten Fidy Imperial Stout) with some of the New Belgium team when Walters made wood cellar brewer Ted Peterson a bet
you get a free 60-barrel foeder,’” says Walters
turned around facing us and put his hand to his ear
and all the pins went ‘Kaboom!’—and he threw a strike.” The next morning
telling him his foeder was halfway done—would he like to finish it with them
and a couple of weeks later it was sitting on the back dock of our brewery.”
That 60-BBL upright (and later the 15-BBL oval
was Walter’s way of saying thank you to the brewery that “basically started the sour beer industry in the United States and cultivated it,” he says
was also the first horizontal foeder in the Foeder Forest.
ordered Foeder Crafters’ first foeder—and then its first 30-BBL
Foeder Crafters is the only specialist foeder producer in North America that focuses on supplying breweries
has supplied ex-wine foeders to numerous breweries—New Belgium
“When we sell wineries new units to replace their old ones
but not the new oak flavors like the wineries want.” Other cooperages do the same
and although there are other foeder crafters outside of the U.S.
such as Tonnellerie Allary in France’s Cognac region
“The best wood in terms of the ability to hold water comes within about 60 miles of our shop,” says Walters
“It’s basically a 60-mile radius of the best oak in the world.” Before the logs have been brought in
putting the wood to their lips and sucking to check for bacterial infections
as well as burning a small piece to smell the smoke
the chosen logs are cut and dried for around two years in an open warehouse
the wood is shaped with an interior and exterior radius
and finger joints are cut into the sides.
“Our foeders are kind of Americanized: I wanted to build a foeder that was finger-jointed; I thought it would be structurally far more sound,” says Walters
“What ended up happening was our foeders started making excellent beer over
The reason is that our tops hold air better
I can make consistent beer with a Foeder Crafters foeder,’ our business just kept growing so well
we're only gonna buy one or two foeders,’ but every year they buy another one
It’s this control over air ingress that makes brewers collect foeders the way punks do stick ‘n’ pokes
a foeder gives a brewer greater control over fermentation
“You can put a wort directly in there and ferment in the foeder
or you can ferment in something else and then put that fermented beer into the foeder,” explains Walters
“Or let's say you put it in there with a couple of tons of apricots
and your bacteria and yeast combination have a symbiotic relationship
and you try to leave them alone in the dark
You have a tasting valve on there so you can kind of taste it
The decline in interest from brewers in Seguin Moreau’s ex-wine foeders isn’t wholly surprising
given that Foeder Crafters’ website states that it continues to “get busier every day.” Brewers appear to be turning away from repurposed vessels across the board as they grow
and can afford more specialist equipment—not that Foeder Crafters’ foeders (try saying that three times after sessioning Ten Fidy) are particularly expensive: they’re cheaper than Chinese-made stainless steel fermenters of the same size
“One thing that's financially interesting is that a used French foeder was of a very high value when I started the business,” says Walters
“A used French foeder from a winery was selling for almost the brand-new price
And now you can get them all day long for a couple grand.”
founder and brewer at Edinburgh’s Campervan Brewery
recently bought three new foeders from Tonnellerie Allary for his new fermentaria
He says he prefers to buy new as opposed to repurposed foeders because it’s “hard to source
transport and verify the quality of second-hand [foeders]
and you would likely need a cooper to rebuild [them],” as well as issues with “excessive waiting lists at European cooperages that repurpose old wine foeders.”
“High demand is a big issue,” he continues
or too hard to find.” For the brewer looking to exert maximum control over that which occurs inside the wood—including clean
such as lagering—a foeder with a lifetime of wine-aging behind it isn’t necessarily ideal
Though an argument could be made that certain mixed-fermentation beers might work well in an older wine foeder
the consensus seems to be that brewers are increasingly opting for their tanks to be a tabula rasa
it’s more that the brewery perhaps wants to be the ones dictating what the foeder does and can do
and in inheriting an already-established flora or culture you don’t really get to do that,” says Derek Bates
co-founder and head brewer of the U.K.’s Duration Brewing (and whose foeders I saw in construction when visiting Foeder Crafters)
the amount of pre-used barrels I’ve had to toss
because they were full of acetic or butyric acids
or a myriad of other shit; I just can’t afford to do that with something that is 10 times the volume and price.”
While aging a batch in a number of barrels as opposed to one foeder can have benefits in terms of flavor and the ability to blend different characteristics together
a foeder makes a brewer’s life significantly easier
“One great thing about the foeder is that they go slower,” says Limbach
this thing is going too slow at first,’ but you need for the barrel to be able to say
you missed it.’ And sometimes in a small barrel
Foeder Crafters’ increasing overseas exports
and the greater and greater number of breweries investing in oak—Missouri or otherwise—could be an indication of the vinification of craft beer: an increase in the influence of the wine world on the brewing industry
which is becoming particularly apparent within the realm of mixed fermentation
It could also be an indication of the maturing of the industry
“Arguably foeders is craft beer growing up
and looking back to the time when beer was matured in large wooden vats which allows more focus on yeast and bacteria vs spirits or wine as an added flavoring,” says Gibson
makers such as Walters will keep sucking on oak for the foreseeable future
we want them to have the opportunity to have a foeder,” says Senn
“These foeders become like passion projects for the brewery
We just want those people to be able to have the opportunity to have a foeder in their place
Ultimately it's just kind of geeking out and wanting everybody to have what they want to have.”
and Publications that’ll drive you to drink
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The first CYO boys basketball game for District 5 was held Sunday afternoon at St
took on the Indians of the Lehighton Athletic Booster Club
The final score of the game was Lehighton ABC 48
The high scorers for each team were Brody Hunsicker for Lehighton ABC with 16 points
and Andrew Rodenbach for Ss Peter & Paul with 6 points
The Lehighton ABC team players are Jayce Graham
The team players for Ss Peter & Paul are Jacob Rodenbach
The coaches are Bill Keer and Ed Rodenbach
both teams participated in a free throw competition
Ethan Lilly from Ss Peter & Paul took first place
Jayce Graham from the Lehighton ABC came in second place
The CYO program was put together by Phil Liszka
District 5 CYO commissioner for the Diocese of Allentown
Liszka also assigns the officials for the District 1 and District 2 games during the basketball season for Ss Peter & Paul Church
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The pick: Rodenbach Caractere Rouge, a fruit beer for the ages.
Probably because they’re so refreshing, sours and fruit beers are a trend with seriously long legs. Have you ever noticed, though, that, with some of the new sours, you can only handle one? It’s a problem. Not one, however, that you’re likely to experience after your first Rodenbach—a perfectly balanced beer with plenty of sweet and mellow flavours to punch down the sharp acidity.
Best of all, at under $10, Rodenbach isn’t even terribly expensive. Sadly, though, it’s affordability guarantees they’ll be snapped up quickly by people who wait for it all year long. If you miss the brief Rodenbach window, look for a barrel-aged sour from your local craft brewer. We’re getting better and better at emulating the Belgians here in Canada.
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the LCBO has a real doozy that should get your taste buds tingling
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Straight from the brewers at Browerij Rodenbach in Belgium comes a special little offering of a Flemish Red Ale that has been aged for two years in oak casks before being bottled and sent to Ontario stores for beer fans to sample
tart and bubbly beer that has turned heads and won a pile of awards
It won World’s Best Sour Beer at the World Beer Cup Awards in 2018 in Nashville
Previous vintages of the brew have also won Gold at the World Beer Cup in 2018
There’s no debating that when it comes to buzz
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A Flemish Red Ale is a farmhouse beer that originated in West Flanders
there typically wasn’t much temperature control or sterilization employed in the early days
there often wasn’t even the beer yeasts that many people associate with many of their favourite suds
Flemish Ale’s typically underwent wild fermentation
which left them to ferment with wild yeasts that could come from the air
which gave them their unique sour or tart flavours
It was a farm after all and the beer was being made to keep the farmers and their farm hands hydrated during hot summer heat waves
employ specific yeast strains and known bacterias
which are harmless to people but impart the desired flavours and textures that sour beer lovers demand
They’re not carbonated in the same way mass produced commercial ales are
which gives them more champagne-like bubbles
they are quite tart in taste and are often cloudy
Rodenbach Vintage 2018 pours a hazy amber colour with very light off-white lacing around the top of the glass
which quickly dissipates and leaves a beverage with a very bubbly-champagne like appearance
there is very little oak flavours or scents in the drink
Almost like licking the sour coating off of sour kids
like what you’d get in a pale ale or an Indian pale ale (IPA)
The flavour is rounded out by the malty backbone in the beer
The champagne like carbonation of the brew makes it more of a sipping beer that’s best for sharing
as opposed to something that you’d drink in high volumes
At a relatively high 7 per cent alcohol by volume
Rodenbach Vintage 2018 highlights the characteristics expected of the style admirably
which is likely why it’s been so successful on the international scene
I wouldn’t say it’s the best sour beer available today
as there are several with more complex flavours to offer
at $12.75 for a bottle at the LCBO it is definitely a beer that’s worth trying and will likely impress
especially for those people who demand to try the latest in beer offerings from around the globe
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the Order of the Butter Weighing gets together in a small village called Esen in West Flanders
Belgium to confer Butter Knighthoods on three new members
Each recipient bows down in front of the Mayor of Esen so that they can be decorated with the antediluvian honor
celebrates butter production in the village and the surrounding areas (there’s a cheese order
and the annual inductees undergo a series of butter specification examinations (including taste and weighing tests) before being knighted and paraded round the village
His camera is particularly focused on the faces of the new knights so they can later be painted
“I don’t tell them beforehand,” says Kris Herteleer
You can’t say to someone that they have such a crazy face that you want to paint them
Each year’s paintings—which are framed 70cm x 70cm and granulated with translucent watercolors—hang congruously on the warehouse wall of the village’s only remaining brewery. Herteleer is a painter, but he’s also enjoyed previous careers as a practicing architect and a local historian. For the past 36 years, however, he’s been the owner/brewer of De Dolle Brouwers
the producer of Belgian classics such as Oerbier
the antiquated nature of the brewery itself
and his eccentric personality have all created perceptions among beer lovers of an unpredictable genius artist
the introspective creative who cares not for what the world thinks
But all this hyperbole undermines his contribution to brewing
“We put ‘Anno 1980’ on our labels because I knew we would be copied by everyone,” Herteleer says
“Some people claim that La Chouffe was the first small artisanal Belgian brewery
The guys from Abbaye des Rocs said they were before me
Between the opening of Pierre Celis’ original Hoegaarden brewery and ours
De Dolle Brouwers emerged from the homebrewing successes of Herteleer and his brother
In their late teens they were buying malt extract kits from England and brewing in a copper vessel which was designed for washing laundry
“When my brother finished his studies to become a doctor
he wanted to go to South America to help there,” Herteleer says
“Before he left we decided to try all the beers we had made
One guy there knew an investor interested in starting a brewery and together we set about trying to find an old brewery to buy.”
In the late 1970s you didn’t look on the internet when shopping for a brewery
“Under ‘A’ there was no brewery,” Herteleer says
“Under ‘B’ was ‘Bavik,’ but that brewery was too big
we saw ‘Brouwerij Costenoble,’ so we went to take a look.”
What they saw on their visit to Costenoble was a beat-up brewery dating back to 1835 in a village of 2,000 inhabitants which at one time housed as many as six breweries
but we had never seen a brewery before,” Herteleer says
“The brewer told us that it would be sold that afternoon to another guy
So we told him to sell it to us at the same price
Herteleer and his brother bought out the investor
And with the help of some skilled brewery technicians
they went about shaping the mechanical efficiency of the system while maintaining the charm of the old brewery
They named the enterprise De Dolle Brouwers
a derivation from the name of a cycling team they had started together with some friends
“In Flanders we call a bike a ‘stalen ros’ or ‘steel horse’,” Herteleer says
“‘Dravers’ is terminology for riding a horse
Aging beer in wooden barrels to extrapolate flavor is now commonplace in breweries all over the world. Goose Island Brewery was one of the first in the States, using bourbon casks to impart vanilla, spice, and charred oak notes in their beers. Founders Brewing Co. was another of the early Stateside adopters
Innis & Gunn were doing the same in Scotland with whiskey barrels
De Dolle was among the global front-runners when it came to wine barrels
They claim to be the first in Belgium to use barrels—not as a souring technique—but to extract the character of what was previously in the cask
That accident took place 16 years ago because of a forced change in the yeast De Dolle were using
De Dolle used yeast from another notable local brewery
Oerbier (translating to “original” as well as being a Flemish play on words meaning “our”) and a Strong Blonde Winter Beer of 12% ABV called Stille Nacht (“silent night”)
where the Rodenbach brewery is based,” Herteleer says
they considered this an appreciation of their beer and they were so proud of it that they mentioned it on their brewery tours.”
When Rodenbach joined the Palm group in 2000
the supply of yeast to local breweries came to an end
“The yeast from Rodenbach was very complex,” Herteleer says
but there are Lactobacillus and Pediococcus strains in there as well
which changed the way the microbiology behaved
and the Saccharomyces Cerevisiae became stronger and stronger because they had no enemies anymore
our bottles of Stille Nacht started to explode
Herteleer called another brewer—Jean-Pierre Van Roy of the Cantillon brewery in Brussels—to ask for help
Van Roy was using barrels to age his Lambics
and had connections with wine makers in various European countries
“We needed nine barrels to put the rest of the beer in those bottles,” Herteleer says
Saint-Julien is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée for red wine in the Bordeaux region
which is known for its high quality and even higher price
I put the beer in those barrels that afternoon and then forgot about them.”
a group of Americans were touring around Belgium with Italian beer journalist
“They were intending to go to Westvleteren
but Lorenzo talked to me and I invited them to De Dolle for a look instead,” Herteleer says
Tomme Arthur of Lost Abbey and Adam Avery of Avery Brewing
“I remembered the beer in the barrels in our cellar which had been there for a few years,” Herteleer says
“I told them we could try some and they jumped so high off the ground when they tasted it
Adam Avery.Lower left: Vinnie Cilurzo
Adam Avery.Right: Lorenzo Dabove and Kris Herteleer. Photos by Rob Tod
It was the first time Tod had visited De Dolle
The beers are so fresh when you drink them there at the brewery
There’s nothing like sitting and drinking Arabier out on the brewery terrace when the weather’s good.”
Tod recalls the excitement of his American colleagues when they met Herteleer
“On that first visit we were taken to the cellar,” he says
the Germans rounded up everyone in the village and locked them in that basement for two weeks
He told us there had been a problem with a batch and that he was forced to open all his bottles and empty the beer out
but we tasted that version of Stille Nacht then for the first time.”
That accidental creation became the Stille Nacht Reserva, a universally loved Strong Wine Barrel-Aged Ale that appears only once every five years as a special release
De Dolle were trailblazers not only in the products they were releasing
but in the way they presented themselves to the market from the very beginning
There were no representations of monks here
no fictional saints or made-up monasteries
they created a cartoon character—Oerbier Man
“[He’s] a little man made from a yeast cell,” Herteleer says
pointing to a depiction of a Michelin Man-esque figure strewn around various walls of the brewery
The yeast cell has a couple of buddings: one is the head
the words “Nat en Straf” (English translation: “wet and strong”) are also everywhere—on the brewery signage out front
“We discussed for three weeks whether it was going to be ‘wet and strong’ or ‘strong and wet’,” Herteleer says of his obsession to detail
“’Straf’ does not mean just ‘strong’,” he continues
And ‘Nat’ is more than ‘wet.’ ‘Nat’ means you are wet inside and outside.” It’s a direct reference to the energy and hard work it takes to get the liquid into the glass
There’s a warmth and authenticity about the team Herteleer has around him which gives credence to his boldness and work ethic
His wife works at the bar serving visitors
his mother—now 99 years old—conducted all the tours in both Flemish and English with an energy and level of knowledge which would impress even the most ridiculous beer geeks
“We bring those who have been working at Allagash for five years on a trip to Belgium,” Tod says
“We always take them to De Dolle and Cantillon
I remember a tour we did one February when it was cold
They fired up a wooden stove oven with compressed peat briquettes
Then there’s Kris’ young brewing assistant
He has lived in the house next to the brewery all his life and grew up drinking Oerbier and Arabier
He’s a graduate of engineering and microbiology
the dream combination for an aspiring brewer
Herteleer’s brother Jo still lives in South America where he continues to brew and support De Dolle from afar
Herteleer himself recounts the personal story of his brewery face-to-face with anyone who chooses to visit on Sunday afternoons
Oerman-speckled smoking jacket and flowery polka-dot bow tie are just a few of the ways he differentiates himself from what has gone before in Belgium
Herteleer’s avant-garde nature is equally evident in the brewhouse
“We grow souring bacteria for Oerbier,” Herteleer says
“We pitch it in our fermenter with our top-fermenting yeast
In the beginning it’s the lactobacilli who grow
when the yeast is making more and more alcohol
Maybe some malts are not good enough or some are too expressive.”
Herteleer has never been afraid to use hops in a country whose stoic obsession with balance has led to a generally conservative attitude to alpha
is certainly a bitter beer by today’s standards (it clocks in at more 60 IBUs)
but in the early 1980s when it was released to a market constituting myriad of beers with residual sugar overload
“Arabier is a pure malt beer with a lot of hops,” Herteleer says
I love drinking sherry when I’m in the south of Spain
But if you drink the same sherry here in Belgium
a style uncommon in Belgium and often interpreted by brewers in ways that make them virtually unrecognizable from the style guidelines
It’s Herteleer’s least popular beer commercially
“One of my brothers broke his leg and his doctor advised him to drink a stout,” he says
A beer merchant told us there was a beer which was better
it was brewed in Dublin and bottled in Antwerp by John Martin
I went on to study the history of stout in London and Dublin
Originally it was stocked in foeders like in Rodenbach and the original stouts had the same thing as our Oerbier
Sourness is essential in a real stout because the originals that were made in London had a sour oaky taste.”
Herteleer’s status as a pioneer is perhaps best evidenced by the conception and development of Stille Nacht itself
a blend of 10 different batches brewed immediately after the fresh harvest of hops arrive from Poperinge in the autumn
but Herteleer didn’t like that it was considered an amped-up version of Oerbier
“The first two Stille Nachts in 1981 and 1982 were dark,” he recalls
“The people talked about the very good Oerbier
Then I’ll change the recipe.’ So I put nothing but pale malt in.”
Winter beers aren’t so much a style of beer as they are a brewing tradition
they tend to be darker and sometimes sweeter than most
usually with a generous deployment of spices
at the annual Christmas Beer Festival in Essen (which is located on the other side of Flanders from Esen)
one of Europe’s most respected festivals at which 178 different Christmas and winter beers are celebrated
Stille Nacht has been voted as the best beer on eight different occasions—2005
“The festival organizers come once a year to deliver the prize,” Herteleer says with a smile
“The second place beer every year is always different.”
There is something very familiar about this story: a middle-aged widower
moves to Bruges as it is the town most suited to his melancholy
He desperately misses his wife; and in the cloistral
moribund city of Bruges he finds the perfect analogue for his grief
And then one day he sees a woman in the street who appears to be the exact double of his dead wife
and eventually begins a relationship with her
But it turns out that she is not the reincarnation of his wife ..
This 1892 novel has something archetypal about it
in the way that Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde or The Picture of Dorian Gray do
The chief differences lie in tone and the absence of the supernatural; there is also a far more ambiguous approach to metaphor
The Stevenson and the Wilde are indisputably great works
or maintains a pious silence as to whether it is
in the sense that Georges Rodenbach's reputation is as a symbolist writer
Villiers de l'Isla-Adam; Rodin offered to carve a sculpture of him in Bruges after his death
indignant that (a) Rodenbach identified the city with death and morbid religiosity
never mind how appreciatively and ecstatically; and (b) that he wrote in French rather than Flemish (although it would have been most difficult and counter-productive to do so at the time)
A note by Will Stone at the end of the book points out that this is still the case
and that you will have to go to Ghent to find a substantial memorial to Rodenbach
An admirer has put up a modest bronze plaque in Bruges
But there is so much to admire in this brief novel
despite all those stylistic mannerisms we associate with the era - the most striking being those fainting-sensibility exclamation marks at the end of descriptive paragraphs
But it is those descriptions that make Bruges-la-Morte so remarkable
the chief character in the novel is the town itself: and this
was some time before Joyce had the same idea about doing the same with Dublin in Ulysses
It is fitting that Alan Hollinghurst introduces this novel
for he has used elements from it in his own fiction
His 1994 novel The Folding Star is itself a homage to Bruges-la-Morte
although he doesn't feel the need to declare so in his illuminating and sympathetic introduction
His narrator says of his lover: "I imagined a life consecrated to the image of Luc
the icon of his extraordinary face candlelit in each room ..." Rodenbach imagines the mirrors in Hugues' house "needed only the merest touch with a sponge or cloth
so as not to erase her face sleeping in their depths"
This is one of the greatest novels ever written about grief
loneliness and isolation; and such subjects are
(Those suffering similar personal circumstances will find it remarkably consoling.) It is the kind of book
that should have been turned into an opera by Debussy
along the lines of what he did with Pelléas et Mélisande
by Rodenbach's contemporary and fellow-townsman Maeterlinck
and I'm not sure that he would have had the right musical attitude
I keep thinking about music so much because so much music resides in the words
about how a city can be a state of mind as well as a geographical entity
It has its shocks and its melodrama: but it is a haunting
Congratulations to Dedalus for reviving it
· This article was amended on Friday January 11 2008
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Helping to fluff out Xinjiekou’s rather bleak nightlife is swanky debutante Rodenbach
Nestled in the brand spanking new 1913 area of Hongwu Road
the restaurant/bar/museum sits adjacent to its sister establishment
ladies luncheon sunroom with posh nighttime Champagne drinking
you will see the “National Theatre” to your left and the new 1913 Designer Court to your right
The first house you come across is Rodenbach
because in 1913 this place was in fact called the “Gongyu Club”
where the likes of prominent Republican leader Chiang Kai-Shek and his gang would come and hangout
The building itself has kept its original European style
with the inside having undergone “little” renovation
Beautifully decked out with hundreds of plants and lights
just sitting outside this colonial blast from the past would suffice
then head on inside for what awaits is quite the lesson (in beer)
There appears to be not to be a piece of wall that is not covered in original beer memorabilia from across Europe and the United States
collected by non other than the museum’s owner Jacky
who spends his time skipping across the States to every auction and antique store
in order to fill his Nanjing projects with bonafide original pieces
Long time Nanjingers will have frequented some of Jackie’s other establishments
which include the Mazzo Nightclubs and New York inspired Tribeca
Certainly take the time to wander around and have a gander at this impressive collection
but what is most interesting (and easy to miss) is the original Nanjing wall bricks that have been set into place above a fireplace
which show original script etched into the stones by those who built the wall
The beer selection is rather large and yep
designed mainly for the Belgium beer lover
IPA lovers need not despair; the menu features a few nice fruity ales including the house option
Food can be described as “China pub style”
yet a few palleas and fancy soups have been added just to break away from all the deep fried goodness
Unless you have got a few bucks floating around in your pocket that you’re not keen on
The drinks and the atmosphere is what you’re paying for
Winter appears to be the best time to spend here
for sitting by the fireplace and looking around
one could be fooled into thinking Europe was just outside the door; Christmas in Nanjing
RODENBACH is located in the 1913 Designer Court
Dogfish Head is still pushing the boundaries of what beer can be
The Delaware brewery known for popularizing the India Pale Ale style and using culinary ingredients in beer has two new releases that play to its strengths
is literally one of the strongest beers you can buy
and is a twist on a Dogfish classic first brewed more than 20 years ago
Dogfish founder Sam Calagione introduced World Wide Stout
a monster of a beer checking in somewhere between 15 and 20 percent ABV and brewed with a ton of roasted barley
That beer is a stout in every sense of the word
giving off aromas of coffee and licorice and coating your mouth with sweet and bitter flavors and a warming feeling
albeit a dangerous one — Dogfish sells it with a bright yellow cap which it calls a “caution cap” for beers with an ABV of 10 percent or higher
signifying that they are both boozy and also prime candidates for aging
Dogfish has added Honduran cold-press coffee
taking down the ABV a tick (to around 15 percent) but giving the brew an extra kick
“World Wide Stout has always been one of my favorites
but this new iteration holds a special place in my heart,” Calagione said in a press release
noting that the beer is brewed with organic ingredients
the first stout the brewery made nearly three decades ago
Another new offering from Dogfish Head is Crimson Cru (7.1 percent ABV)
a collaboration with nearly 200-year-old Belgian brewery Rodenbach
a Flemish red-brown ale aged in oak casks that made the trip overseas by tanker
infusing the beer with sumac and orange peel and then dry-hopping it with Hallertau Blanc hops
This beer builds upon Rodenbach’s Grand Cru
a full-bodied beer with aromas of cherry and toffee
You get those flavors from the beer as well
Belgian-style beers are some of my favorites
so it’s good to see this thoughtful partnership making more of them available here
Gary Dzen can be reached at gary.dzen@globe.com.Follow him @garydzen.
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