a fishing town on the Danish Riviera remembers one of the greatest collective acts of resistance of World War Two: its role in the flight and escape of the Danish Jews It was autumn on the Danish Riviera, a string of fishing villages along the coast an hour north of Copenhagen. In the town of Gilleleje apple trees hung heavy with fruit in the gardens of thatched cottages and pink roses bloomed in the dunes backing the long sand beach Day trippers ate fish and chips on the quay next to a harbour packed with pleasure boats the coast of Sweden hovered on the horizon but it hasn't always been this peaceful this stretch of water represented an escape route for the Danish Jews If they failed to cross the water from occupied Denmark to neutral Sweden they faced deportation and possible death in the concentration camps of Europe Thanks to the bravery of the Danish people – and the fishermen and people of Gilleleje and others along the Danish Riviera – 7,056 Danish Jews out of a total population of 7,800 were taken under the cover of darkness to Sweden and to freedom It's hailed as one of the greatest acts of collective resistance during World War Two This October, Gilleleje is unveiling a new monument to mark the 80th anniversary; while a new exhibition at the Museum of Jewish Heritage in New York titled Courage to Act: Rescue in Denmark brings the story to a wider public This act of resistance began three and a half years into the German occupation of Denmark "The Danish Resistance was getting more courageous and August saw strikes and sabotage across the country Hitler decided to teach the Danes a lesson and ordered a roundup of Danish Jews in September to take place in early October." She pointed out a shop once owned by a draper who displayed pro-RAF anti-German posters as we walked past fisherman's cottages and the town's church The Danish government had collaborated with the German regime initially whispers were passed to politicians and rabbis that the Danish Jews should flee and do it quickly: the Nazis were due to round them up on the nights of 1 and 2 October The safest route was to take the train to Gilleleje and find a passage across the Øresund Strait to Sweden Gilleleje was a fishing town with a population of around 1,700 where everyone knew each other German soldiers were stationed at the nearby hotel and were visible on the town's streets and around the harbour locals were on edge for impromptu visits from the Gestapo meeting the fleeing Jews at train halts and taking them into hiding until nightfall when they could board boats for the dangerous two-hour trip on stormy windswept seas to Höganäs and other towns along the Swedish coast There was something that Hitler had completely misunderstood. And that was: while they were Jews, they were also Danish people. Of course, they would help each other in a crisis."There was something that Hitler had completely misunderstood," said Søren Frandsen the author of a new book, Kurs Mod Friheden (The Path To Freedom) The responsibility to help others in peril was particularly ingrained in the religious fishing community of Gilleleje they innately knew the value of working together creating a social network and banding together to help "The attitude of the fishermen overall was that 'we help all people who are in need'," said Frandsen supplying food and blankets to people in hiding and collecting money to help those who could not afford to pay for the journey who had arrived in Gilleleje with her mother and just a small bag filled with clothes and her teddy bear Her mother had spent her last money on the train fare to Gilleleje – buying a return ticket to avoid suspicion "That was the only money my mum had," Udsholt said Udsholt is one of the few remaining people alive at the time of the great flight and gives regular talks and tours about her experiences She was hidden with her mother and several others in a hay loft on Østergade "Germans were patrolling the whole time," she said and asked my mum if I could go home with him Udsholt went to play with the fisherman and his wife at their house on a neighbouring street while her mother sheltered in the hay loft until night fell and the conditions were good enough to sail to Sweden the Gestapo were alerted to a group of around 80 to 90 Jews hiding in the church attic and immediately arrested them deporting them to Theresienstadt camp in Czechoslovakia Standing in the present-day attic with Udsholt with its bare boards and tiny windows with a view of the harbour it was easy to imagine the panic and fear the group must have felt Upon hearing the news of the arrest of the church group up the street Udsholt's group were told they had to leave immediately "My mother had just a second to make a decision," said Udsholt "She had heard a rumour that if fishermen had children who cried or talked on board She told Svend that he and his wife could borrow me until the end of the war but that she would come back to collect me then." Udsholt spent the rest of the war in Gilleleje as one of 135 Jewish children hidden in Denmark and shielded from the German soldiers by the local people She remembers looking out over the water to the lights of Sweden to where her mother was She ended up staying with her foster family in the small beach town "Gilleleje looked after me," she said Similar acts of courage took place up and down the coast throughout October 1943 around 600 Danish Jews hid in the large kiln of a brickwork factory before escaping through the open marshlands under cover of night to waiting boats It's important to tell our kids about it so they will be more sympathetic to people who have to escapeJørgen Bertelsen is a volunteer guide at the kiln and regularly takes school trips around it "Nowadays there are many places where people need to flee," he said "It's important to tell our kids about it so they will be more sympathetic to people who have to escape It's not just happening in [places like] Africa: it happened here too And we should also remember the volunteers who risked their lives to help." but about celebrating an attitude towards people in need "I think Gilleleje should be so proud that such a small town has achieved so much," she said "It's not that people should be thanked for behaving with humanity – but we should be proud of this spirit It's why it's important to open doors to Ukrainians and people fleeing war." Join more than three million BBC Travel fans by liking us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter and Instagram If you liked this story, sign up for the weekly bbc.com features newsletter called "The Essential List". A handpicked selection of stories from BBC Future, Culture, Worklife and Travel, delivered to your inbox every Friday. Why we're still talking about Maud WagnerHow America's first professional female tattooist broke through into an art form historically dominated by men. The insulting 'Vinegar Valentine' of Victorian EnglandValentine’s Day is thought to celebrate romance but rude cards soured the holiday for its recipients. Richard III: The 'accidental' photo of a long-lost kingWhy a famous photograph of King Richard III's skeleton was a happy 'accident'. The WW2 experiment to make pigeon-guided missilesAn unexpected WW2 experiment by behaviourist B F Skinner proved that pigeons could be used for missile guidance. 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Jewish Museum Milwaukee’s compelling exhibit examines the extraordinary actions of Danish people during the Holocaust Photo Courtesy Judy Glickman Laude - Florida Holocaust Museum Collection Jews perished in large numbers across Nazi-occupied Europe where more than 95 percent of Jews survived a story of solidarity recalled in the new exhibition at Jewish Museum Milwaukee The heart of “Choices of Consequence: Denmark and the Holocaust” are dozens of silver nitrate photographs by Judy Glickman Lauder She began her documentary photography by visiting the death camps and killing sites of the Holocaust she visited Denmark in a visual exploration of a nation that came together against genocide Denmark was regarded by the Nazis as a “model protectorate” with its king and government left in place under German supervision “Hitler deemed the Danes as Nordic people,” explains JMM Chief Curator Molly Dubin on par with Germans in the Nazi racial hierarchy The nation’s Jews had lived in the country since the 1600s when they were invited by the king Antisemitism was a negligible factor in Danish politics; the local Nazi party was miniscule The German army overran Denmark after a brief skirmish in 1940 and allowed the country’s institutions to function more or less as before when the Nazis decided to impose their antisemitic agenda on the country his government and the nation’s people rallied to rescue their Jewish fellow citizens The Danes were alerted to Nazi plans by a quietly subversive German diplomat in Copenhagen who also reached out for help to neutral Sweden Danish police helped most of the country’s 8,000 Jews to reach ports where fishermen ferried them to safety in Sweden Danish churches and hospitals provided shelter en route Photo Courtesy Judy Glickman Lauder - Florida Holocaust Museum Collection Lauder photographed places and people associated with the rescue of the Danish Jews “a sense of presence.” Pier Humleback Beach shows a stony surface and the rough boat dock from which many Jews escaped Harbor Gilleleje reveals one of the ports as it looked in 1992 still crowded with small fishing boats capable of carrying no more than 10 people per trip Boat Hatch peers into the dark hold of one of those boats where Jews were concealed In the deep shadows of Crypt Trinity Church Torah scrolls from the nearby synagogue were hidden from the Nazis Her black and white portraits include Pastor Palle Dinesen of Trinity Church; Thormod Larsen a policeman later arrested by the Nazis for his role in the rescue; Birgit Krasnik a rare fisherwoman among the rescuers; and playwright Finn Abrahomowitz four years old when he fled by boat with his parents Some of the text panels record memories of the participants “did not consider their actions heroic but simply the right thing to do.”  “Choices of Consequence: Denmark and the Holocaust” runs February 14 through May 25 at Jewish Museum Milwaukee, 1360 N. Prospect Ave. For more information, visit jewishmuseummilwaukee.org David Luhrssen lectured at UWM and the MIAD and Hammer of the Gods: Thule Society and the Birth of Nazism Get the latest news from Shepherd Express delivered directly to your inbox LEARN MORE © 2024 Shepherd Express. 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Read our Privacy notice seven of them wedged tightly against the jetty; catches unloaded The only noise comes from a carelessly secured rope one of its clasps banging repeatedly on the metal of the mast in the playful breeze Here is a picture of small-town Scandinavia at its prettiest Looking beyond the Danish flags that flutter on this mini fleet At this point Sweden is only 15 miles away though the firm line of its west coast is turning hazy in the late afternoon – the tinge of the fading sun on the sea gives it the appearance of a golden Avalon a promised land that travellers might aspire to reach It would have seemed similarly inviting 70 years ago though the longing to cross the narrow channel that separates Denmark and Sweden would have been borne more out of desperate need than merry daydream And the mood on the Gilleleje dockside would have been one not of relaxed tranquillity but of raw panic: people scrambling on to the nearest available ship losing their footing; luggage and possessions hastily abandoned on the wharf; families huddled together; children crying Gilleleje witnessed the final flight of wartime Denmark's Jewish population from home soil running ahead of the Gestapo which – in this country at least – had been unusually slow in imposing Nazi Germany's abhorrent will the dreaded deportation order had been issued – and had sparked a chain of events that would prove to be among the most compelling to emerge from the darkness of 1939-45 Denmark had seen a different version of the war to that endured by the likes of Poland and Holland it had been allowed to keep its government in situ and was considered by its occupiers to be a "model protectorate" – an example of how post-war Europe might function under German rule its 7,800-strong Jewish populace – mostly based in Copenhagen – had been permitted to remain But a spate of sabotage attacks conducted by the Danish Resistance in the summer of 1943 snapped German patience leaving Denmark entirely under the Nazi yoke The call for the Jews would come on 1 October The hero of the hour was a dove in wolf's clothing Georg Ferdinand Duckwitz had been a German businessman who had made a living from trading coffee Now he was a diplomat attached to the German embassy in Copenhagen Firmly opposed to the Final Solution and aware of the coming storm he sent word to his Danish political contacts on 28 September The exodus headed out through Zealand (the Danish island on whose eastern edge Copenhagen sits) north to Helsingor – frightened travellers slipping out of safe-houses neutral Sweden confirming it would accept the refugees Across the Oresund's choppy waves they went It is remarkable that so few died: 23 people are thought to have drowned 40 miles north of Copenhagen at the upper tip of Zealand the Gestapo knew that they had been outmanoeuvred The captains of the boats who scurried away from port on that Wednesday afternoon did so in the certainty that they could not return without reprisals Eighty fugitives were left marooned when this makeshift armada sailed they were concealed in the church – and they were still there when German troops arrived that night and extracted them from the gloom within Gilleleje does not exactly shout about its contribution to this formidable effort and you can find quiet echoes of what happened framed by clipped hedges and sighing trees stepping into a graveyard that remembers generations of Lunds and Olsens But the Star of David on the headstone of Valdemar Lendorf and his wife Holga – both dead before the war – underlines the area's Jewish ties all is still – as if recalling the sad silence that must have swathed those hiding here on that day slotting the rescue mission into details on Zealand's Ice Age story and Viking heritage An unfussy exhibit recreates the attic space in which the church refugees were found a fishing boat with a hollow side shows passengers cocooned below deck that Gilleleje does not want to celebrate its stand against tyranny It is more that it is busy as a seaside hotspot popular with Copenhageners keen to swap the city for fresh air but every seat is taken on the veranda at Adamsen's Fisk the menu board advertising a for-two sharing portion of fish soup for 89 Krone (£10) Restaurant Gilleleje Havn serves the sort of piscine comfort food that you would expect of such a town with hearty portions of hjemmelavede (home-made) fish and chips for Dkr165 (£19) And the main drag of Vesterbrogade does a solid job of luring visiting shoppers Choff dealing in quirky nuggets of Scandinavian design; delicatessen Mad Med Mere full of olives Gilleleje Badehotel is the essence of Danish hospitality: crisp white décor; rooms of unfussy cosiness; a rear terrace gazing towards the Oresund; a log fire in the reception area – the weather just cold enough to demand it passing the back gardens of summer holiday homes Pitched in the corner of a grassy clearing instrument placed to his lips and pointing at the sky reads: "Let the great shofar [a Jewish ceremonial horn] declare our liberation." The work of British-Jewish artist Georges Weil it was presented to the town in 1997 by Israeli shipping magnate Yuli Ofer Its triumphant note is more than justified Denmark's stance against Nazi persecution was determined and dogged mainly to the Theresienstadt concentration camp in Czechoslovakia their country campaigned tirelessly on their behalf the majority were released to the Swedish Red Cross One fifth of the survivors escaped via Gilleleje – which explains why Yad Vashem also guards one of the boats used in those fitful days There are few Jewish tales with any positive aspects to be salvaged from the wreckage of 1939-45 Gilleleje Badehotel: Hulsovej 15 (00 45 48 301 347; gillelejebadehotel.dk) Gilleleje Museum: Vesterbrogade 56 (00 45 72 499 950; hhkc.dk) Open Wednesday to Friday 1 to 4pm and Saturday 10am to 2pm; DKK35 (£4) Gilleleje Kirke: Gilleleje Hovedgade 45 (00 45 23 201 051; gillelejekirke.dk) Adamsen's Fisk: Havnen 2 (00 45 48 300 927; adamsens-fisk.dk) visitnordsjaelland.com; visitdenmark.co.uk the northern part of Zealand is dotted with intriguing sites and historic landmarks Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies Denmark (AP) — Denmark is spending 11 million kroner ($1.6 million) to buy the country’s last four circus elephants to give them a proper retirement as the government moves to ban wild animals in circuses Food and Fisheries Minister Mogens Jensen says a ban on wild animals in circuses is expected later this year The ministry said Saturday there were no immediate plans as to where to put Ramboline but applicants willing to take the mammals should offer a timely takeover and proper welfare Animal Protection Denmark would ensure their welfare until then Circus Arena manager Benny Berdino said he was “sad to have to say goodbye” to its elephants but was happy they would get a good retirement The fourth elephant belonged to Cirkus Trapez © 1996 - 2025 NewsHour Productions LLC PBS is a 501(c)(3) not-for-profit organization Subscribe to Here's the Deal with Lisa Desjardins The Local Europe ABVästmannagatan 43113 25 StockholmSweden Around 95 percent of Denmark's 7,000 Jews escaped deportation either by fleeing to neighbouring neutral Sweden by boat or Many children were reunited with their loved ones after the country was liberated at the end of World War II the small village north of Copenhagen that adopted her Denmark chose to collaborate with the Nazis and maintained its own institutions until the end of the summer of 1943 who did not have to wear the yellow star Jews were forced to wear by the Nazis But everything changed at the end of September 1943 when Berlin ordered a raid on the country's Jewish community The information was leaked and Denmark's Jews knew they had to act "My mother told me she had received a message on September 30 that she would have to flee with me," Udsholt told AFP in Gilleleje "Since my father was Christian he didn't have to come." Udsholt and her mother met up with most of her mother's side of the family at Copenhagen's train station where they were hidden away in a hay barn while waiting to make the crossing to Sweden But Udsholt's mother was concerned that her daughter's incessant chatter would get them caught took a liking to the talkative little girl he offered to take her home to his wife for a few hours so she could play freely and escape the confined He and his wife Ketty later offered to let the little girl stay with them so her mother could find a place for them to live in Sweden The Gestapo found and arrested 86 Jews stowed away in a Gilleleje church barn which had until then turned a blind eye to the influx of refugees in the village "She told herself: 'This is what is best for my daughter'," Udsholt told AFP I still remember," recalled the vivacious 83-year-old They "told me: 'You see those lights over there I would stand on a chair in the window and tell my mother what I did that day." Andreasen "went around to most homes to tell them they had taken in a little fair-haired girl As soon as soldiers approached when she was playing outdoors because Svend had warned me that I was never to talk to the men dressed in green or those with long black coats because those were the people who were going after my mother," she recalled who had had no contact with her daughter for almost two years She came to collect her child on August 24 - her fifth birthday Udsholt missed the sea air and village life The time apart took its toll on her parents her mother agreed to let her go live in Gilleleje with Svend and Ketty Andreasen "My mother and I were good friends for most of her life but we were not mother and daughter," she said with a heavy sigh Please log in here to leave a comment 40 meters above sea level on the most northern point of Zealand lies a house drawn and built by the owner himself Kim Utzon’s interest in architecture is not inherited from strangers Kim and his wife Charlotte bought a piece of land in the small fishing village of Gilleleje the architect imagined a wooden cottage in cedar and endless glazing to invite the spectacular surroundings inside THE HOUSEWith a dream of building their own house the former patrician villa on the plot was practically demolished and white walls and tile roof were exchanged with cedar tree cladding and a cobber roof Within the frames for building along the listed coastline Kim drew a two-floor contemporary villa of 120 m2 and after a year of construction the couple could call it their new home The extreme exposure to nature required strong materials to withstand heavy winter storms passing in from the sea glazing proved to be an essential aspect of the architecture With floor to ceiling glass walls blurring the boundaries between inside and outside sky and forest becomes a picturesque part of the interior “It’s a tradition in my family that we build our own houses and this house is the third I build for my family” says Kim who has also built a house down the road for the couple’s son THE VIEWWith unspoiled view to Kullen in Sweden the home faces the approach to the Baltic Sea from Kattegat A large south-west facing sundeck benefits from the sunset and view to the small harbour of Gilleleje where the couple always buy fresh fish The 45 degrees cliff side is part of the 2300 m2 land and is overgrown with thicket hiding a 200-step stairway down to a private beach where the couple often descends for a swim with their dog Selma Total immersion in nature is what drew the couple to Gilleleje and back to the Danish north coast after having lived in both Copenhagen and Gothenburg he does get a daily dose of city life but enjoys retreating to nature after a day of conceiving new architecture THE INTERIORA bright colour scheme transcends the home of two bedrooms kitchen and combined living and dining room White walls are given a splash of colour with the couple’s extensive collections of paintings including oil canvases made by their son The interior is done by Charlotte who has chosen a blend of wooden furniture THE KITCHEN AND LIVINGROOMA black wall and tall module from Vipp comprise the south facing kitchen in open connection to the living room and with glass doors opening to the terrace A wooden table and customized oak shelves from Københavns Møbelsnedkeri soften the steel kitchen.The living room interior is comprised by a Vitra sofa and coffee table accompanied by a Poul Kjærholm stool A Vipp side table is lid up by a Kaiser Idell lamp Buddha figures and a Ganesh elephant add a slice of foreign influence to the Nordic interior THE BATHROOMS AND BEDROOMBoth bathrooms are covered in Norwegian Oppdal slates and kept simple with bathroom furniture from Vipp The first-floor bathroom benefits from the natural skylight from the sloping roof windows A Hästens bed dominate the bedroom together with two Green Square nightstands A Chinese vintage cupboard from local store ‘Siam’ holding a Vipp table lamp and painting by David Utzon break the Nordic style with its red colour and gold ornaments salt-sprayed peninsulas and hippie enclaves await Where to stay: Hotel Odeon Where to stay: Gilleleje Badehotel Where to stay: Brøndums Hotel Get your weekly dose of armchair travelling fishing villages and art galleries of the Danish Riviera11 November 2009iStockAll products are independently selected by our editors It is ideal for a romantic weekend away or a summer holiday with children Slotsgade 6, Fredensborg (00 45 48 40 01 11; www.storekro.dk) An imposing hotel on the beautiful Esrum Lake (00 45 49 75 86 00; www.havreholm.dk) Helsingor (00 45 49 21 40 00; www.marienlyst.dk) A huge hotel with a casino and a seaside restaurant One of the best restaurants on the riviera; serves good fish platters European cuisine and lots of Shakespeare pictures on the walls Danish and French cuisine; located near the Karen Blixen museum Not far from the fishing town of Gilleleje in a stretch of countryside unaccountably known as Rusland (Russia) is the jaw-droppingly peculiar Rudolph Tegners Museum Tegner himself had no doubt that he was an undiluted genius and the museum is his egomaniacal monument to himself But his technical skill does not compensate for his complete lack of taste It is no surprise to learn that Tegner was inspired by the supremacist thinking of Nietzsche because many of his works bear an uncomfortable resemblance to the frowning Chippendales of Nazi art many nude studies aim to be sensual in a Rodinesque way Tegner is buried in the dead centre of the building surrounded by the plaster products of his priapic imagination His museum is also his mausoleum - the crowning lapse of taste Tegner's museum seeps out into the surrounding countryside Bronzes of many of the casts you have seen indoors are mounted on plinths and dotted about like sentries This is lovely country - pine trees and purple heather and you can enjoy a half-hour playing hunt-the-dubious-artwork in the sun-lit woods and sheep-filled fields ZEALAND Zealand is a compact little island and endless convoluted miles of beautiful woodland to walk in The terrain everywhere is flat and negotiable If you get tired you can always put your bike on a train: there are cycles helpfully painted on the doors of the carriages that accommodate them AIRPORT The nearest international airport is Copenhagen located 8km (5 miles) southeast of the city