A renovated lighthouse on the Bay of Biscay is the perfect base for exploring Asturias’s maritime delights The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. I have always longed to be a lighthouse keeper and now Feel the waterproof weave of my Donegal tweed cap I am way too toasty in this quasi-nautical ensemble calm and warm on an early spring afternoon in the famously pretty fishing village of Cudillero in Asturias where the Costa Verde of northern Spain drops away into the deep blue Bay of Biscay The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more. the local lighthouse – the Faro de Cudillero – stands on a shelf of rock just beyond the harbour a short walk up stone steps and along a narrow cliff side service path Its hexagonal beacon tower has been remodelled a few times over the years The signal lamp inside was first fuelled by olive oil before being electrified and eventually automated its sturdy keeper’s cottage was left derelict decades ago and the general obsolescence of the role itself converted and partitioned into two loft-style holiday apartments by the German company Floatel which specialises in this kind of repurposing Staying for a couple of nights with my girlfriend and our six-year-old daughter in the Farero suite I find the interior much plusher and airier than whatever salty quarters I might have imagined The interior is much plusher and airier than the salty quarters I might have imaginedWe’ve got heated floors and a Nordic timber whirlpool bath with bench seats while pretending to be a 19th-century lighthouse family mystified by modern luxuries Large flanking windows look east and west to sunrise and sunset and tripping the sensors and flipping the switch I expected a search beam to shoot from the lantern room and sweep the bay in whooshing gyres but this light is programmed for a sequence of static flashes known as “occultations” it’s like an eye that opens for one long stare followed by three short blinks to represent the letter “B” in international morse code but that letter was already taken by Candás another coastal beacon about 30 miles due east The plush interior of the apartment was a welcome surprise Photograph: Javir Parilla/FloatelI learn all this and more back inside by the fireplace and the bookshelves support a small library of lighthouse-related literature Between novels by Virginia Woolf and Jules Verne are historical journals and photographic surveys that reference this site in particular cloudy Asturian cider to a decent mid-range Spanish red I read how ancient mariners set signal fires more or less where I’m sitting and may have lured a few ships in to wreck and plunder on these rocks no defining loss of local menfolk in the unforgiving Cantabrian Sea An Italian cargo vessel called the Amelia C (en route from Newcastle upon Tyne to Venice) sank just offshore in 1877 though it seems the lighthouse keeper mobilised the village for a rescue effort but now I discover the sublime and fathomless comfort that comes of drifting off beside your family in the belly of such a refuge between the winking lantern and the sighing sea So here we are asleep and dreaming in “lighthouse world” as Floatel co-founder Tim Wittenbecher described it when I spoke to him on the phone Cudillero is renowned for high quality seafood Photograph: Raul Garcia Herrera/Alamy“A lighthouse is the most purely positive structure we can think of,” Wittenbecher told me “It has only good associations.” He discovered just how many people feel this way 20 years ago when he and his wife turned a ruined beacon into a guest house on the Baltic Sea Hundreds responded immediately to their first online ad and their pet project became a business model it has since entered public-private agreements to take over the empty lodgings of lighthouses in spots from Ischia in the Gulf of Naples to La Palma in the Canary Islands “They are always in super-attractive positions romantic and mostly quite abandoned areas,” said Wittenbecher though it’s not as far removed from civilisation as some others in his portfolio and is close enough to the village that it once served double-duty as the local schoolhouse romantic areasIt is also handy enough for the present housekeeper to bring us breakfast the next morning – a wicker basket full of pastries A single gull hovers at the window to watch us eat shaking a fist and quoting one of her own favourite books which forms a kind of amphitheatre in the tight arc of the adjoining cove with steep vertical staircases and narrow lateral lane-ways stitched between tiers of brightly painted houses Some have strips of curadillo hung outside – dried sharkskin that’s been a totem around here since the days when fishers used the rough flesh to polish their boats and ate it when they couldn’t catch much else made with salt cod hauled from the cold waters below The writer’s family and family walked at Playa del Silencio Photograph: Herraez/Getty ImagesCudillero fishmonger Manolo Fernández supplies every restaurant in the vicinity “The quality of the produce is the same in each place,” Fernández assures me at his shop beside the port “The only difference is the chef.” He’s quick to laugh but also prone to lamentation “This used to be a real seafaring village,” says Fernández “I remember 230 boats out there; now we’re down to about 30.” This shop has been in his family for three generations and almost a century As he cheerfully lists the reasons why – supermarkets the climate crisis – it occurs to me that I’d forgotten all those worries while staying at the lighthouse and ahead of us: salvation for sailors in trouble and watch our little girl sit cross-legged in a sunbeam on the windowsill scanning the horizon for mermaids and orcas with the house binoculars this will be a bright spot in my memory – a signal light out of the distant past Accommodation was provided by Floatel, which has two two-person apartments at the Cudillero Lighthouse from €190 or €290 a night B&B; the entire lighthouse sleeps four and can be rented from €480 a night B&B (four nights for the price of three, seven nights for the price of five) whose location in the far-flung northern region of Asturias has preserved its hardscrabble maritime spirit and kept the selfie-snapping hordes at bay Cudillero (pop. 5,000) is the kind of fairy-tale place you might conjure up after a grim day at the office—a sleepy coastal oasis where you wake up to the distant clang of buoys, take barefoot walks on empty beaches, and while away afternoons at harborside cafés. Luckily, a five-hour drive from Madrid, or a three-hour jaunt from Bilbao or Santiago de Compostela With its amphitheater of colorful cliff-top houses around the central Plaza de la Marina, Cudillero could get by on its postcard-worthy looks alone—squint, and you could be on the Amalfi Coast But the town has more than enough culture to keep you busy Centuries of virtual isolation from inland Spain (due to the area’s ornery geography) gave rise to Cudillero’s peculiar Nordic-influenced dialect (legend says it was founded by Vikings) and pagan-influenced festivals like L’Amuravela which takes place every June and culminates with the incineration of life-size papier-mâché giants Cudillero is as vibrant as its pastel-colored façades; here we break down our favorite way to spend a weekend in one of Spain’s prettiest (undiscovered) ports Cudillero’s high season runs from June to August when rain is scarce and the town fills with seasonal residents and vacationers who bring the plazas and sardine-can tapas bars to life The cold-weather months are comparatively crowdless and serene a boon to introspective travelers looking to decompress contemporaneous with those found in neighboring Oviedo’s cathedral were rediscovered during a 2000 restoration “The whole town felt a sense of pride and satisfaction for having recuperated a part of our history that was about to disappear,” said Juan Luis Álvarez del Busto Cool off after your urban hike with a dip in the goosebump-raising Cantabrian Sea. The sandy beaches of La Cueva, San Pedro, and Oleiros—all less than 15 minutes from the village center by car—are favorites for swimming and surfing while the hideaway xogarral (pebble beach) of El Silencio with its slate-gray bluffs and sparkling surf Scale down a few hundred yards to the shoreline via a steep and sometimes slippery footpath On your way back into town, make a pitstop at Cabo Vidio—that is, unless you have a fear of heights. This wind-whipped cape is famous for its sheer, 100-yard-high cliffs that plunge into the sea. A dirt path tiptoes along the ridge to a stone lighthouse, the ideal vantage point to watch the sunset an uproarious seafood joint a few flights up from Plaza de la Marina that’s always packed with Pixuetos (Cudillero natives) a hyperlocal specialty of air-dried shark that falls somewhere between bacalao and lutefisk on the putridity scale For a more sedate but equally memorable dining experience, book a table at Restaurante Cabo Vidio (by phone is best: +34-628-842-315) a white-tablecloth standby serving textbook renditions of Asturian specialties like monkfish soup Ask for the tower room at Casona de la Paca which sits slightly on the outskirts of town up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse We understand that time is the greatest luxury which is why Condé Nast Traveler mines its network of experts and influencers so that you never waste a meal or a hotel stay wherever you are in the world Our tipsters revel in whitewashed villages Vibrant colours, vibrant dishes, AsturiasCarved into the rugged coast of Asturias, Cudillero is a picturesque fishing village that lit up our recent tour of the north. After driving along the coast from Gijón, we were instantly struck by its vibrant colours. We enjoyed the freshest of seafood at one of the quaint harbourside restaurants, and found the arroz con bogavante spectacular yet inexpensive We spent the rest of the day wandering through the village’s narrow winding streets and after its seemingly endless staircases to unveil a panoramic view of the harbour.Haldane knowledgeable hosts – with walks and bike rides from the door in beautiful countryside an expertly mixed G&T and a fabulous home-cooked dinner under the stars.Stephanie O’Brien Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage We stayed in our friends’ finca (farmhouse) in Villanueva de la Vera set on a wooded hillside dotted with clearings where ancient olive trees are tended by elderly owners Itinerant shepherds still graze their flocks through the hills and rampaging packs of wild boar root through gardens and orchards at night embrace the risk of some refreshing rain and then discuss the weather with locals over breakfast of tomatoes toast and ham in the excellent cafe/shop Las Pepas (Avenue de la Vera a Unesco world heritage site with more than 45,000 date palm trees covering 144 hectares.Malcolm Matthew which offers an amazing set menu at reasonable prices.Josh while nearby Torla offers a range of good restaurants and guesthouses.Charlotte Jose Museo Ibáñez and Centro Perez Siquier Museum in Olula del Río Almería province (an hour’s drive north of Almería town) are two free art museums/galleries in Andalucía they house a magnificent collection of contemporary art and also historical photographs (Carlos Pérez Siquier is considered one of the pioneers of the photographic avant garde in Spain and one of the most influential creators of Spanish photography) of Spain over two buildings situated next to each other by the side of the road and they offered a very quiet relaxed visit Impossible to miss thanks to the large white sculpture of a woman’s head outside featured trips and local tips for your next break as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays Oviedo’s central location within Asturias and reliable trains and buses make it an excellent base for exploring the many fantastic coastal towns which proved perfectly positioned for mountains where the Río Tastavins flows over rocks forming a lovely Please use the comments below to share details of your own favourite spots in Spain Ian Payne is Leading Britain's Conversation A British sailor is missing in the Bay of Biscay after Storm Herminia made landfall on the western coast of Europe bringing with it high winds and torrential rain The 73-year-old man was reported missing after an air force helicopter located the yacht adrift off the French coast described as an American flagged yacht named Tiger PA found itself in trouble at around 5.30pm on Saturday according to reports The man had reportedly set off a distress beacon amid high winds with rescue efforts sent to an area located around 50 miles west of Lacanau It comes as Storm Herminia made its way towards Britain with more than 40 flood warnings issued amid warnings of widespread power outages Divers were winched down from the rescue helicopter to the "gutted" wreck of the sailboat The search was later suspended at 1.33pm on Sunday as high winds and rain lashed the west of Europe Read more: Commuter chaos as Storm Herminia sweeps UK - with more than 40 flood warnings, heavy rain and 80mph wind forecast Read more: Colombia backs down in migrant row with US after Trump threatened tariffs The north of Spain and western France are currently experiencing dangerous conditions from Storm Herminia Initial efforts saw a Portuguese cargo ship and a Spanish hospital ship diverted to the area in a bid to join the search efforts with efforts called off as the storm closed in It comes as a series of yellow warnings for wind and rain have been issued with more than 40 flood warnings in place as three inches of rain are expected to hit and 70mph gusts of wind The Environment Agency issued 173 flood alerts and 51 warnings across England with 15 alerts issued by Natural Resources Wales has 15 alerts and two alerts in Scotland See more More Latest News See more Latest News See more The News Explained See more Royals See more Highlights & Opinion See more More Topics UN Tourism has opened applications for the 2025 edition of its prestigious Best Tourism Villages initiative This initiative marks a continued commitment to advancing rural tourism as a catalyst for sustainable development and inclusion while celebrating the rich tapestry of cultural and natural heritage and sustainable practices that make these destinations unique the initiative has gained global recognition UN Tourism has received more than 800 applications from over 100 countries the UN Tourism Best Tourism Villages Network includes 254 members worldwide: over 180 villages recognized as Best Tourism Villages and 70 participating in the Upgrade Programme representing almost 60 countries across five world regions UN Tourism Secretary-General Zurab Pololikashvili says: “The Best Tourism Villages by UN Tourism celebrates rural destinations where tourism serves as a catalyst for opportunity these villages create opportunities for economic growth and promote a better quality of life for their communities We are eager to welcome those villages that represent the role of rural tourism as a transformative force for good.” UN Tourism Member States are invited to submit up to eight candidate villages through their respective National Tourism Administrations (NTAs) The villages recognized as Best Tourism Villages 2025 will be announced in the third quarter of the year on the occasion of a UN Tourism event An external Advisory Board comprising global experts will evaluate applications based on nine key areas: The Best Tourism Villages by UN Tourism initiative aims to leverage tourism as a tool for rural development By combining efforts to value and preserve rural landscapes the initiative advances innovative tourism strategies aligned with the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) The initiative comprises three integral components: The initiative is part of the Tourism for Rural Development Programme by UN Tourism More from our Engagement Hub SpainChevron GettySave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links Me and Asturias? We go way back. I first pitched up here in the mid-1980s as a backpacking student with an Interrail pass, riding the old-fashioned trains that rattled along the Cantabrian coast from Bilbao to La Coruña I still remember my wide-eyed delight at seeing for the first time the verdant valleys rolling down to the sea the huge beaches pummeled by big Atlantic breakers the fishing villages stuck like limpets to the rocky coastline Cold climates often imply caution and reserve but there was a friendliness and warmth about the locals that reminded me—counter-intuitively Asturias is one of four regions along Spain's north coast, from Galicia in the west to the Basque Country in the east and cuisine; its cool and damp climate harbors lush pastures Asturias has historically been favored mainly by Spaniards but as summer temperatures rise inexorably in the Med a trickle of wised-up foreigners are choosing to take their vacations in these temperate northern climes in northern SpainGetty ImagesThe decades that followed that eye-opening Interrail trip saw me returning again and again There was a memorable long weekend in Oviedo the charmingly buttoned-up capital with its bustling provincial air; and another in Gijón—the polar opposite of Oviedo—a boisterous coastal town with a surf-tastic beach scene and a salty seaside vibe In the rough-and-tumble harborside neighborhood of Cimadevilla in Gijón which was poured in a thin stream into a flat-bottomed glass for a deliciously fresh (as well as intoxicating) draught At a series of rustic eating houses run by the stalwart women cooks known as guisanderas (“stew-makers”) I ate my fill of down-home local favorites like onions stuffed with oxtail and maise-flour tortos with minced meat picadillo But the excitement of new-wave Spanish cuisine had not passed the region by A prime example was the restaurant Casa Marcial which I first visited in the late 1990s when its chef-patron Nacho Manzano had not long been in charge of the rustic bar/shop/eatery previously run by his parents in the hamlet of La Salgar—and which now has three Michelin stars I must have made a dozen trips around this neck of the woods I spent a few days in the post-industrial town of Avilés where Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer had just designed a new cultural center composed of curvaceous geometric forms in dazzling white under the looming shadow of the Picos de Europa mountains I was amazed to see how the concrete cubes of the harbor wall had been painted (by sculptor Agustín Ibarrola) in dazzling colors and madcap designs I was obsessed with the unique Asturian heritage of pre-Romanesque churches dating from the sixth to ninth centuries I plotted elaborate routes among these tiny Ruta del Cares in the Picos de Europa National Park Asturias and I have become like some cozy long-term couple but not yet at the point where familiarity breeds contempt When summer heats frazzle the south of Spain I still head north annually towards those pristine beaches those rolling valleys lined with oak and chestnut woods And the latest chapter of this particular love story is both a happy ending and a promising new start Solo PalacioJuan Fernandez/Solo PalacioWhere to stay in AsturiasSoloPalacioNothing about SoloPalacio conforms to conventional notions of country-house luxury there’s the location: way down south in a little-populated little-visited corner of the region among grandiose mountain scenery and hardscrabble villages The country seat of the aristocratic Miranda-Quirós family a rambling rural property in the hamlet of Llanuces was rescued from ruin by Madrid entrepreneur Carlos Díaz Díaz transformed the property into a collection of 11 apartments occupying various outbuildings and a chapel plus the original 16th-century dwelling house The USP here is Tejerina’s extraordinary design for the palacio – a radically stripped-down aesthetic employing basic and often humble materials to strikingly beautiful effect (Think ‘wabi-sabi’ but without the shabby.) The high-ceilinged interiors are devoid of decoration beyond the occasional hand-woven basket or rustic implement; the walls are ruthlessly Colour has no place in this warm monastic minimalism: it’s all about the touchy-feely textures of polished- cement floors bare stone walls and architectural-salvage furniture Bathroom fixtures might be cheap hardware-store staples yet the big squishy sofas are acres of cool white linen Forget five-star fripperies like the big TV the chocolate on the pillow - though a coffee machine and a bottle of Asturian wine would certainly be nice there’s a stone-built Wellness Space and an infinity pool with mind-boggling mountain views It may help to ease the pain of the room rate (whose high-season ceiling of 1059€ has caused quite a stir locally) to know that Diaz intends all profits from the hotel to go towards social projects and conservation schemes in the vicinity This thoroughgoing makeover of an entire country village (Cofiño near Parres) raised the bar for high-end accommodation in Asturias when it opened in 2016 and stables housing rare-breed farm animals also includes 30 rooms in converted village houses and two restaurants using produce from the farm The result is an interesting fusion of rusticism with highly geared luxe As Asturias’ brightest and boldest city and a seaside hub of urban culture often compared to Brighton in the UK Gijón is just the right place for this sleek chic boutique hotel in a carefully restored 1931 art-deco building CoolRooms Palacio de LucesAlvaro Sancha/CoolRooms Palacio de LucesCoolRooms Palacio de LucesAsturias has never been prodigal in really fine hotels but Palacio de Luces is a notable exception it was recently acquired by the small but energetic Spanish group CoolRooms who have made their mark on what was already a remarkable building combining as it does a 16th-century mansion in pale yellow stone with a modernist wing surgically grafted on to the original buildings Natural light floods in from all sides through plate-glass windows affording huge views of meadows and farmland the coastline stretching away to east and west and the hulking form of the Sueve mountain range distributed equally between old and new wings have undergone a total refit since the hotel changed hands in 2018 sweeping away the earlier incarnation’s dowdy brown-and-beige interior in favor of an elegant contemporary-classic look in a palette of greens that almost feels like a continuation of the landscape Nearby Lastres has some great eating places but it’s worth staying for dinner at the hotel restaurant Tella through floor-to-ceiling windows opened wide on summer nights are as delectable as Francisco Ruiz’s new-gen Asturian cuisine with its emphasis on locally sourced produce and cunning nods to the region’s Latin American connections This bijou 7-room hotel in a former casa de indianos (built for a successful emigré on his return from the Americas) is beautifully sited in a quiet rural setting within reach of the Redes natural park Owner-manager Pedro Armas is a madrileño incomer whose well-judged taste and hospitality make the casona feel like a particularly well-upholstered and civilized B&B A former monastery in the remote southwest of the region this imposing granite building (known as “the El Escorial of Asturias”) is a stand-out among recent incorporations to the state-owned Paradores chain Having arrived at this out-of-the-way location be sure to visit the nearby nature reserve of Muñiellos one of Europe’s largest areas of first-growth deciduous forest and a haunt of the Cantabrian brown bear where dignitaries and celebrities lay their heads during the annual Princess of Asturias awards is the kind of hotel that Spaniards describe as “de toda la vida”—it’s been there forever and stone-built historic palacios continues to offer exceptional quality and value It’s worth browsing the website to find jewels like Villa Argentina in Luarca and Casona de la Paca in Cudillero both examples of the extravagant modernista houses built by wealthy Asturians on their return from the Americas in the early years of the twentieth century Casa MarcialSiro Garcia/Casa MarcialWhere to eat and drink in AsturiasRestaurante Guëyu MarTop-quality fish and seafood landed at the small-scale fishing harbors along the Cantabrian coast is a major selling point of Asturian eating This celebrated beachside restaurant at Playa de Vega does a great line in whole fish (try the virrey a firm-fleshed local species) cooked over coals or a la plancha Address: Playa de Vega, 84, 33560 Ribadesella, Asturias, SpainWebsite: gueyumar.es In the same former farmhouse where his parents once ran a rustic shop and bar Nacho Manzano now presides over a three-Michelin-starred restaurant generally agreed to be the region's finest where the food is both inventive and sophisticated but never loses touch with Manzano's asturiano country roots Address: 33549 Arriondas, Parres, Asturias, SpainWebsite: casamarcial.es This no-frills locale in the post-industrial town of Mieres looks like a standard-issue Asturian cider house but it's actually way more interesting and new-wave ciders while his wife Natalia Menéndez serves a market-led menu that might run from shellfish salpicón and stuffed onions to roast beetroot with anchovy and hazelnuts and hake with fresh apple and cucumber sauce Address: El Parque, s/n, 33610 Turón, Asturias, SpainWebsite: instagram.com/casachuchu They usually serve plates of fried pixín (monkfish) and platters of cheese along with cider by the bottle is good for a total immersion in cider culture and its curious customs like the escanciado: The drink is oxygenated by expert servers pouring it from an arm’s height Address: C. Gascona, Oviedo, Asturias, SpainWebsite: gasconaoviedo.es Visitors to the deep green landscapes of the southwest corner of Asturias are often surprised to see vineyards among the oak and chestnut woods wine has been made here since the ninth century now with its own quality seal (Denominación de Origen Cangas) and forward-thinking bodegas like Antón Chicote Address: Centro de Empresas de Obanca, 33800 Cangas del Narcea, AsturiasWebsite: docangas.es Asturias is one of our Best Places to Go in Europe for 2024, part of our global guide to the Best Places to Go in 2024—find more travel inspiration here. a rural village a few kilometres from Cudillero in the Asturias region in the north of Spain where a dozen families who have known each other all their lives live was heartbroken by the death of Javier Fernández Martínez and his son Jesús Fernández López in a tractor accident on Friday night said the few neighbours who took to the streets on Saturday The tragedy unfolded at around 11pm on Friday when both were returning home from the Santa Ana pilgrimage with which Javier has always been an active participant one of the neighbours who used to take the virgin out in procession and this Friday he had been no less Together with his neighbour and friend Severino and two other acquaintances they had taken the saint's image out in the procession Afterwards they had enjoyed the afternoon and said their goodbyes "until next year's pilgrimage" when Javier and the little boy were returning home The tractor that Javier was driving was already entering the adjoining farm from the road that brought them from the hermitage when for reasons that are now being investigated by the Guardia Civil it plunged down the steep slope of the adjoining farm which collapsed immediately as a result of the impact The 112 emergency coordination centre was alerted at 11pm Firefighters from the Asturias provincial brigade (SEPA) from the Pravia and Valdés fire stations were immediately mobilised was stabilised at the scene and rushed to the Hospital Universitario Central de Asturias with severe trauma but died in the operating theatre in the early hours of Saturday morning residents who had not heard about what had happened during the night began to receive the tragic news very knowledgeable about this area and a great professional those who a few hours earlier had shared with father and son the celebration of Santa Ana tried in vain to find an explanation for what had happened and could not hold back their tears awaiting authorisation to remove it and to take the necessary tests to clarify the cause of the incident who were attended to by the immediate response team for psychosocial intervention (ERIE) of the Red Cross Those who consider themselves family more than neighbours said that Javier was as well known as he was loved "from Oviñana to Pravia" after getting married he lived for some years in Oviñana he had already rebuilt his life with his partner was on a trip to her homeland to visit her family although he continued to live with his mother and sister in Oviñana happy to take part in the work on the farm "much more fond of agricultural machinery than of little toys" He may have inherited his father's passion for agricultural vehicles a passion that Javier had turned into his profession he eventually decided to take a leave of absence and dedicate himself to this trade The residents of Cuesta del Cesto said that "he drove tractors before cars" "good machinery" with which he worked all over the area Those who knew and loved the whole family accompanied them in the afternoon to the mortuary in Cudillero The joint funeral of father and son was held on Sunday at half past six in the afternoon in the parish church of San Roque de Oviñana And the body of little Jesús was cremated at the Funerarias del Occidente mortuary in Barcia Comentar es una ventaja exclusiva para registrados The TimesBetween the Atlantic coast and the Picos de Europa mountains But it is one that rewards those who linger with wildflowers eucalyptus forests and the dreamy clang of cowbells in a distant field I am walking a loop around El Gran Sueño (“the big dream”) a Brittany spaniel belonging to the owners who swapped Brighton in East Sussex for this bucolic life Carson has spent the morning haring off across meadows and along sheep tracks before returning panting with excitement as though desperate to tell me of the joys that lie ahead in this part of Spain AsturiasGETTY IMAGES“Sleepy” doesn’t cover it here in El Caspiu This is the sort of place where you arrive with plans aplenty only to find you can’t rouse yourself from the terrace — and the astounding view But rouse you must because on your doorstep is one of the country’s most dramatic landscapes a dense mountain range designated as Spain’s first national park in 1918 It’s only a 35-minute drive from El Gran Sueño to Cangas de Onís From here a short walk up the ridge brings me to Mirador Entrelagos trying to take in a panorama that packs in glittering placid waters razor-edged snow-capped peaks and bizarrely British-looking grassland It’s not just the mountains that El Gran Sueño gives easy access to and the next day I make for the Atlantic — and a beach that is undoubtedly one of Spain’s best Playa de Rodiles is a colossal swathe of golden sands that belongs to those who seek a wind-whipped dune to perch on and an empty expanse to wander I join them — there are maybe six — in silent reverie pushing my toes into sand made glossy by the retreating ocean This coastline is known for its excellent seafood so I leave the beach at lunchtime for Tazones and the seafront terrace of El Rompeolas I take a seat and pin down the tablecloth with a menu and a glass of local cider — this is sidra The person pouring (the escanciador) is a sure-handed professional who will lift the bottle above their head as the liquid falls into your glass AsturiasALAMYFilling up on food now seems wise so I order the clams and the prawns before moving on to the fish of the day This is hake (in Asturias it most often is) and has a texture so buttery that it falls apart under my fork Asturias isn’t known for its food — but it should be I am heavy-hearted leaving my Asturian home from home the next day to a seafood lunch in the fishing village of Cudillero Here terracotta roofs pattern the hillside and converge around the harbour where restaurants tempt passing tourists with blackboards listing the catch of the day I take a table on the waterside at La Taberna del Puerto and order grilled langoustines clams and a dish of chorizo cooked in sidra I eat quickly because I have an appointment with a beach that has long been on my wish list Playa de las Catedrales is just across the border in Galicia and I time my journey to be sure that I am here at the lowest possible tide It is only as the sea retreats that what appears to be just another sandy swimming spot emerges as one of Spain’s most dramatic shorelines Here cone-shaped arches march in formation The name of this beach couldn’t be more appropriate — a nod to nature’s divine architecture AsturiasBack on the road I steer southwards and on to Casa da Cabaza a rural B&B in an old farmhouse beside the Embalse de Vilasouto Lake who also swapped city life for a slower pace forming the crux of the Ribeira Sacra wine region I board a boat at the Ponte do Sil and cruise along the river canyon looking up the steep riverbanks at terraces crafted by human hands over the course of 2,000 years but in more recent decades the vines went uncultivated as civil war tore people from their land and economic decline under Franco forced in non-native grape varieties with a higher yield seeing no value in wine beyond its use in church and ordered white vines to be ripped up and the country’s wine industry to focus entirely on reds There has been a renaissance in the past 20 years and local grapes such as godello and mencia are flourishing From the boat we can see the vines of Adega Algueira my venue for lunch and a tasting that spans several grape varieties and the godello blended with Galicia’s albariño matches my octopus beautifully Wines from here are expensive — those vines are all picked by hand — but worth it Siets cooks a dinner of vegetable lasagne made with produce from the garden and tempts me with cheeses from their neighbour along with homebaked sourdough and honey — everything here is hyperlocal On my final day in Galicia I go eastwards and upwards a mountain range only slightly lower than the Picos but less well known outside Spain I swing the car around hairpin bends on precipitous slopes that reach up through purple heather to a clear blue sky A lung-busting few minutes’ walk brings me to Castro da Torre — its series of squat slate walls all that remains of a Roman village built for goldminers in the 1st century I sit a while on what I imagine would once have been somebody’s front step and watch lizards darting past GaliciaGETTY IMAGESThe Courel mountains are home to Galicia’s last brown bears but the wildlife I encounter is somewhat smaller I follow neon-yellow butterflies through the woods at the River Lor picking my way along a rocky path to reach a tiny freshwater beach In Seceda I find lambs bleating in a stable — the only sound to pierce the silence of this old village But it is on the drive back that I have the best wildlife encounter of the week Pulling the car around yet another tight corner I am dreamily contemplating what might be for dinner when a bobbing white bottom catches my attention; as quick as a flash it moves upwards It stops and turns back to face me with the same exultant look that Carson had given me just a few days before Helen Ochyra was a guest of Further Afield. Three nights’ B&B for two with a three-course dinner at El Gran Sueño from £380 and three nights’ B&B for two with a tapas dinner at Casa da Cabaza from £220 (furtherafield.com) ShareSaveCommentLifestyleTravelAvilés: Alluring Launch Pad To Northern Spain’s Asturias RegionByJohn Oseid you realize that you’ve been granted the brief privilege of motoring into a car-free historic city center After you’ve checked in and started exploring the northern Spanish city’s windy stone streets on foot you’ll quickly cherish that liberation from noise and exhaust and find it hard to imagine that not too many decades ago cars would have been zooming all around you The arcades along Calle Galiana look much as they did when constructed in the 17th century Not getting run over on the square makes it all the easier each time you return to your hotel to just stand and admire the handsome 17th-century Palacio de Avilés originally known as the Ferrera Palace after the marquess who built it with an arched entrance big enough to accommodate his carriages Converted nearly twenty years ago into a hotel the Baroque palace’s original building has suites that are furnished antique-style while rooms in the the side wings are modern Above the city hall that faces the palace hotel a small model of a sailing ship with three billowing masts is your first hint that this quiet little city in Asturias on the Cantabrian Sea packs a big wallop in Spanish history Appearing on the Avilés coat of arms as well the vessel is a reference to the shipbuilding city’s role in the 13th-century Reconquista of Seville and to later overseas exploration you’ll admire the proportions of Calle Galiana Calle Rivero and other streets in this small-scale city of fewer than 100,000 residents along whose length more than a mile’s worth of colonnades stretch the arcades were divided between livestock and pedestrian pavements while many homes above retain original balconies from which you can imagine Goyaesque figures looking out Proper cider pouring in Asturias takes practice On the backside of the Palacio de Avilés hotel a sliver of green hints at what is to come on a stroll into Ferrera Park that was once the estate belonging to the eponymous marquess Descending either Galiana or Rivero streets into the park lovers of ample urban greenery will delight in discovering twenty acres of English-style gardens filled with old-growth trees many with helpful plant labels at their base Roaming further through the Avilés old town you’ll also get a hint at the enormous outflow of Asturian citizens that took place over nearly the last two centuries many of whom brought back great wealth from the Americas to show off ecletic stone villas set back from the streets are of the type known as casas indianas that you’ll see in many parts of Asturias so named after those “indianos” who emigrated principally to Cuba Buildings such as the early-20th-century Balsera Palace also reflect the Art Nouveau trend popular at the time among prosperous Asturians and a festive buzz about it that all shout local institution Sitting at a long wooden table tucked inside of a massive repurposed cider barrel you’ll be introduced to another Asturian institution that of cider consumption and the unique way in which waiters pour just a shot of it from high above their head into a glass held low in order to aerate the cider The trick is to down it in a gulp to keep the bubbly going While it must be a pain for the waiters to keep refilling your glass past what little remains of the old city wall a quick jaunt to your left takes you into the rectangular Plaza Hermanos Orbón with a fish market at center and surrounding buildings in various states of renovation under whose cast-iron-supported arcades locals take coffee and drinks the Oscar Niemeyer International Cultural Centre was dedicated a decade .. a towering statue serves as yet another reminder of this small city’s far reaches That’s Pedro Menéndez de Avilés looking out toward the estuary the 16th-century admiral whom Floridians know as the founder of St A huge line drawing on one wall was one of the last works by the great Brazilian architect Just off the Muelle park, the Casa Lin family-run restaurant and cider house has bustled with groups small and large since it opened in 1890 The cider pours here like rain and the mussels and fresh seafood arrive from the waters minutes away and go right into tanks in front of you back at the Calle Galiana area in the old town you’ll find a festive young atmosphere reigning with one eating and drinking establishment after another lining the colonnades under which locals sit at upended cider barrels-cum-tables the fishing village of Cudillero is consistently ranked among Spain's most .. the fishing village of Cudillero is routinely and justifiably hailed as one of Spain’s great seacoast towns and down narrow windy streets that follow an arroyo Cudillero’s multi-colored houses look like something that might come out of Colombia’s Caribbean coast a range of seafood restaurants here cater to tourists but they enjoy a solid reputation for quality the scene here with outside dining on the main plaza is as much about people watching Cudillero is just the chill kind of place in which you’ll start to understand why so many who left Asturias ultimately came back Note: For those flying into Madrid’s Barajas Airport with the Avilés airport located some 20 minutes outside of town The flight pattern takes you right over the rugged Cantabrian Mountains where hamlets below appear as so many miniatures a view that serves as a great introduction to the heart and soul of this region A SMALL Spanish fishing village has been compared with "fairytale" towns due to its authentic charm and lack of tourists Cudillero in the Asturias region of northern Spain is described online as "ridiculously eye catching" because of its colourful houses built on a hillside around a harbour with clear blue waters Among its winding alleyways and narrow streets are stunning views out to sea, while each of the homes in the village are said to pleasingly matches the colour of their owners' fishing boats yet quiet beaches that have even been labelled "secret" because of the lack of visitors especially compared to the stretches of shoreline in busier parts of the country The village featured on a list of hidden Spanish gems put together by The Geographical Cure who described it as "Spain's prettiest seaside village" They said: "Cudillero has some secret beaches there are some beautiful viewpoints where you can admire the coloured houses and terra cotta roofs There’s a pleasingly startling contrast between the terra cotta and the blue sea." Among the secret beaches they talked about is Playa del Silencio or "beach of silence" in English Travel experts Lonely Planet labelled it one of Spain's most beautiful beaches silver-sandy cove backed by a natural rock amphitheatre" Asturias.com said it is a hidden paradise that lives up to its name and other visitors agree, with the beach's tranquility a huge draw for travellers. Another added: "Nice place to sit for some peaceful contemplation listening to the water gushing through the stones." The Playa de San Pedro and Playa Concha de Artedo are also worth visiting for secluded beach experiences There's more to do in the town than just relax by the shores however, with ancient churches dating as far back as the 13th century popular with some visitors to the area a lighthouse built in 1858 still stands at tip of the harbour to keep the town's fishermen safe The hill on which the lighthouse stands is another excellent view point, offering a great lookout on to the Bay of Biscay. The fishermen provide another perfect reason to visit Cudillero with their daily catch served fresh in restaurants like El Faro and Casa Julio both of which also have the local cider on tap Along Dusty Roads visited both establishments on their visit to the town in which they were won over by its authentic charm They described it as "a small fishing town that just so happens to look like it has been plucked from a book of fairytales" Getting to Cudillero is fairly straightforward and cheap for Brits, with Ryanair offering flights from around £14.99 each way to the nearby Asturias airport A night for two in a hotel can be booked from around £43 Meanwhile, this unsung Spanish holiday town is easy to get to and has quiet empty beaches And this must-visit Spanish holiday destination is away from the crowds and featured in Game of Thrones Our journalists strive for accuracy but on occasion we make mistakes. For further details of our complaints policy and to make a complaint please click this link: thesun.co.uk/editorial-complaints/ according to the locals1 of 12Attribution: iStockBy Samantha StewartOctober 09 2018 - 10:51pmIt's no secret Spain is full of beautiful towns the Spanish people themselves were called to answer in a nation-wide survey printed in newspaper El País Around 5000 people helped decide from a list of 250 towns which top five towns were to make the cut bursting with authenticity and yet to be packed with international tourists Click through to discover the top five underrated towns in Spain you need to visit The #1 spot on the podium went to the town of Albarracín some 3,787 feet above sea level in the region of Aragon It might seem an odd choice at first – after all there are certainly prettier towns in Spain and ruins of an old fortress built by the Moors it's not hard to see why Spaniards are in love with Albarracín Cudillero is arguably Spain's prettiest seaside village out of sight on the wild Asturian coast – meaning Narrow roads and colourful cottages are what make this village wedged between the mountains and the sea so charming History buffs should also try to stop by Quinta de Selgas palace a stunning 19th century home with beautiful gardens The third most-loved town went to Santillana del Mar in the region of Cantabria and according to El País it is "an unmissable stop for whoever travels through Cantabria." Aside from the town's sandstone olde-worlde charm Santillana del Mar is famous for its Cave of Altamira renowned for its palaeolithic paintings which date back 36,000 years.  The town of Aínsa in Aragon took out the fourth spot thanks to its rich historical centre which has been a 'conjunto histórico' – a conservation area – since 1965.  the town is perched by a commanding panorama of mountains including the impressive rock bastion of La Peña Montañesa In the heart of Aínsa is a medieval hilltop village that's managed to withstand the tests of time The final town voted for by the people was La Alberca this beautifully-preserved town is in the national park of Las Batuecas-Sierra de Francia at more than a 1000 metres above sea level The narrow streets of this historical town are flanked by ramshackle homes built of stone and each have the date they were built carved into the front door lintels Just in case it wasn't already picturesque enough for you flowers are hanging from every balcony in sight.  Last Thursday, the Ferrol Diving Unit of the Spanish Navy was training in the Ria of Marín (on the coast of northwestern Spain) when the divers were surprised by a finding of great beauty The Ferrol Diving Unit belongs to the group of operational units of the Maritime Action Force they are in charge of protecting “Submerged Archaeological Heritage,” locating and registering all the material found in the maritime area under the jurisdiction of the Ferrol Maritime Action Command who spoke with Aleteia and told us first hand about the surprising discovery In the Ria of Marín, specifically to the north of Punta Corveira Beach are found Castiñeira Islet and the Cabezos de Arcade shallows The Ferrol Diving Unit was carrying out physical training activities in that area They indicated by gestures that they wanted to show them something enthroned as the Queen of the Seas among a tapestry of herbs and seaweed It’s only known that the same locals who showed the statue to the diving unit of the Spanish Navy found the figure half buried in the sand at the bottom Our Lady of Mt. Carmel is the patron saint of the people of the sea, including fishermen and the Spanish Navy. For this reason, she’s called Queen and Star of the Sea "Stella Maris." In many towns and cities of the Spanish coast her feast is celebrated with maritime pilgrimages on July 16 Statues being placed underwater is something of a tradition around the world there are numerous statues of various advocations of the Blessed Virgin Mary that populate the seabed Some are at times taken to land to be venerated with great faith and devotion by groups of divers; others it is brought to the surface for public devotion A marble statue of the patron saint of Algeciras The same happens with a bronze image of the Our Lady (the “Santina”) of Covadonga which is submerged at the bottom of the waters of the old port of Cudillero The different invocations of the Virgin under the sea have a great popularity all over the world The places where they are placed have been and are a place of prayer for many parishioners May the submerged sculpture found in Ria of Marín will inspire us to bend down reverently before her sacred image and see her as our Mother and Patroness Articles like these are sponsored free for every Catholic through the support of generous readers just like you Please make a tax-deductible donation today Help us continue to bring the Gospel to people everywhere through uplifting Catholic news a Provence river cruise and ferries between the Aeolian islands – our tipsters share their slow travel highlights A cruise along the Rhône in ProvenceOne of my most memorable travel experiences was drifting down the Rhône from Lyon to Avignon I chose to embrace the slower pace of a river cruise allowing the beauty of Provence to unfold gradually As we glided past vineyards and lavender fields I could almost taste the crisp rosé waiting for me in Tain-l’Hermitage where I stopped to savour local wines and cheeses The medieval villages along the way felt like stepping back in time with the cicadas singing and the sun setting over the water deepened my connection to the soul of France It was more than a journey: it was an immersion in the heart of Provence.Aimee Sandler Photograph: Anton Petrus/Getty ImagesThe best way to get a sight taste and feel for Istanbul is to use the public ferries that crisscross the Bosphorus connecting the city’s two sides – one in Europe ideally with a piece of simit (sesame seed bread) and enjoy the views as the vessels chug along with the Blue Mosque and city skyline silhouetted against a fiery sunset.Gayle Thank you for your feedback.Natural highs on a Northumberland boat ride Photograph: Ashley Cooper pics/AlamyThe best slow boat trip, hands down, has to be Serenity’s Sunset Cruise in Northumberland where you get to see the sunset while sailing around a beautiful part of the coast If you’re as lucky as we were you’ll also see wildlife such as seals and the local pod of dolphins – which chose to follow and play around the boat as we sailed and then head waterside to Porto di Messina a scenic area where you can swim in the river The Bernina Express on Landwasser Viaduct in Filisur, Switzerland. Photograph: scaliger/Getty ImagesThe Bernina Express offers a stunning rail journey through the Alps The train’s slow pace and panoramic windows make it perfect for savouring the scenery you’ll experience a dramatic shift from snow-capped peaks to sunny vineyards.Lewis Wrocław Glowny station Photograph: Nathaniel Noir/AlamyOn Polish regional railways I travelled from Wrocław to Jelenia Góra recently There the comparison ends – there were 27 stops Larkin’s The Whitsun Weddings came to mind “All sense of being in a hurry gone” as the train no sooner left one rural halt than it slowed for the next; disgorging a handful of passengers and picking up others like a languid relay race with luggage the requisite gift from a visitor in Poland carried by the girls and grandmothers on the train A few days later I travelled on to Zielona Góra with time to walk from Germany to lunch in Poland while changing trains at historic Zgorzelec-Görlitz: “two countries My favourite was an early work by Mondrian Have lunch on one of the many terrazze and take an afternoon train to Milan a city that glitters in both sunshine and moonlight Use an Interrail pass for a few days’ travelling in a month.Monique Gadella Malfa harbour with its view of the other Aeolian islands Photograph: Realy Easy Star/Tullio Valente/AlamyAmid the Aeolian islands lies Salina One evening there we drank malvasia in a vineyard with a view of Mount Stromboli glowing in the near distance; the next we were picked up by the ferry to Naples over the island of Lipari and the mainland and we glided over a millpond-like Tyrrhenian Sea pausing to pick up passengers in the darkness from the lava-black and still luminous and spitting Stromboli waking in the morning to arrive in beautifully chaotic Naples ready for an evening at the Teatro di San Carlo.Jan Cudillero fishing village in Asturias Photograph: japatino/Getty ImagesDeserted stations punctuated our journey as the train clattered around bends I relied on sheets of paper in remote ticket office windows advising of departure times where houses are jumbled around the harbour bathed in the mingling aromas of fish suppers and apple cider and this railway journey allowed us to do just that.Cathy Robinson these beaches with their gorgeous waters and picture-perfect shorelines will have you dreaming of holiday escapes old-fashioned place to stay in a rustic red mansion house Photograph: AlamyLincoln national park is well worth exploring for an adventure in some of the country’s most scenic wilderness Memory Cove has three beaches close to each other in a wilderness protection area within the national park itself Each day just 15 vehicles are permitted access and with only five designated camp sites – and a maximum of three-night stays – you won’t be battling for space on the white sand Among the wildlife you may spot are sea eagles and a hike up Stamford Hill will be rewarded with panoramic views along the coastline Just inland are game reserves and off the coast you can spot dolphins southern white whales and great white sharks Photograph: AlamyPhuket has a reputation for being one of Thailand’s rowdier enclaves but even though most of the popular beaches are busy and well-developed for tourists Just a couple of hundred metres long and with crystal clear water with only a wooden sign and local knowledge to suggest its existence Banana Beach can be found off the road running from Andaman White Beach and Trisara Resorts and is catered by a small restaurant selling seafood beneath the palm trees Photograph: AlamyPlenty of people search out Goa’s secret beaches; what many don’t realise is that arguably the best one is just over the border has a great deal of natural beauty: a small lagoon aside from a few coconut and water vendors those in the know have been packing a picnic and a few beers and crossing the Tiracol river for some time when a court ruled that public access to the beach should remain The sand is soft and white and the calm turquoise water perfect for swimming as it’s protected by a coral reef Watch the local lads catch angelfish with their bare hands Go on the weekend and see Jamaica at play: reggae pumping out and football matches you might be able join in Aug 13, 2019 2:06 PM EDTOver 3.5 million people pour off cruise ships into the Bahamas each year And while cruises are nice (if you’re into that kind of thing) it’s statistically impossible for you to experience even a fraction of this country’s 700-plus islands and 2,500 cays if you’re disembarking for just eight hours or so connected to Nassau via two bridges) or pristine and uninhabited (like the far-flung Exuma Island) The Bahamas is one of the closest Caribbean destinations to the east coast and Canada (second only to Bermuda) and there are tons of low-cost airlines that fly there regularly (including AirTran Airways Here’s our long-weekend guide to getting the most out of the Bahamas without looking like a total tourist The Bahamas tends to be synonymous with the mega-resort Atlantis, but now you can stay at the equally impressive Baha Mar It’s actually three separate resorts: the Art Deco Grand Hyatt Baha Mar There’s also a 100,000-square-foot casino an 18-hole Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course If you’re looking for a weekend escape where you don’t even have to leave the resort If you prefer a less Vegas-ified Caribbean getaway, book a room at the Melia It’s still huge: There are 694 rooms and suites including a swim-up bar in the main pool (plus two other pools) But its Cable Beach location—complete with a perfect strip of white sand—is far enough from the port and the masses of Baha Mar to feel almost secluded (there's a free shuttle to Baha Mar if you want to partake in the excess there so you don’t have to worry about pulling out your wallet for poolside cocktails all weekend Morning: An early flight from the New York area can get you to Nassau International Airport before noon which leaves plenty of time to soak up the Friday sun It’s never too early for a daiquiri by the pool in the Caribbean Morning and afternoon: You can’t go to the Bahamas without visiting Pig Island. It’s not an easy trek from Nassau, but an Exuma Escapes excursion will do the work for you followed by a 150-nautical-mile boat trip through the clear turquoise waters leading to Exuma all the way out to the uninhabited Big Major Cay aka Pig Island and snorkel around Pablo Escobar's sunken drug plane off Norman’s Cay The tour will get you back into Nassau by 5 p.m There’s fine Chinese dining at Shuang Ba; Katsuya for sushi and Japanese food; and the farm-to-table Commonwealth don't go to Señor Frog’s or Margaritaville you’ll find the LED-paneled Bond Nightclub a 10,000-square-foot venue with fancy mixologists and everything else you’d want to get your oontz-oontz on The sharks themselves measure anywhere from two- to 10-feet long and you can watch games live all weekend (they also air major events on TV but try focusing on what’s in front of you—your fantasy league is fine) Evening: Make a reservation ahead of time at Graycliff the first five-star dining establishment in Nassau The colonial-era mansion—think lots of dark wood and wrap-around porches—dates back to the 1700s and is as regal as anything you’ll find but the wine cellar is the real selling point the meandering basement is now home to over 250,000 bottles worth $25 million so give yourself time to peruse if you’re a real oenophile And if you’ve got serious cash to burn—like Jay Z and Beyoncé bank account status—you can even rent out a special dining room in the wine cellar (yes the Carters have actually dined there...more than once) Morning: There’s no need to rush home; your flight won’t be that long History buffs—and people who just like exploring old stuff—will love hiking around Fort Charlotte one of the historic forts throughout Nassau and you can ogle the cannons and dungeons the soldiers once used as well as explore the secret passages and tunnels under the fort’s 100 acres Afternoon: Grab one last bite of fresh seafood (with a Kalik beer or daiquiri a tiny storefront within Potter’s Cay another seafood market under the Paradise Island Bridge where you can soak in the island vibes one final time before heading back to reality has left its mark this Holy Thursday with mourning in two coastal areas of the country have drowned in the past few hours as a result of the bad weather a 30-year-old man died while trying to rescue a minor who had fallen into the sea and who also died The teenager went into the water while he was with some friends on Miracle beach and the rescuer a German man who was taking a walk with his wife in the area still alive but in a very serious condition and ten minutes later the other victim was pulled out of the water The incident happened in an area near the area known as Fortí de la Reina Spain's maritime rescue sent the Helimer 221 helicopter and a vessel to the area while Bombers de la Generalitat sent a helicopter from its base in Sabadell with firefighters from the specialised underwater unit of the GRAE - Grup d'Actuacions Especials - as well as other teams on land The maritime units of the Mossos regional police force and the Guardia Civil also went to the scene of the incident But the Tarragona incident was not the first fatal incident of its type on this dark day on the coastline of Spain a woman and a man died in separate accidents after being swept into the sea after apparently being hit by high waves The 112 emergency service coordination centre received the first alert at 12.59pm A caller reported that a woman had fallen into the sea in the port of Cudillero and was being dragged onto the rocks While the rescue services were being mobilised another call reported that the woman had been rescued by a boat that was taking her to the port The woman was unconscious and resuscitation manoeuvres were being carried out The SAMU ambulance service sent a primary care team from Cudillero and the medical team and mobile ICU ambulance from Avilés to the scene The medical staff performed advanced cardiopulmonary resuscitation for more than an hour but in the end they could only confirm his death The second tragedy in Asturias happened in San Esteban 112 call handlers received a report that a man had fallen into the sea at 1.01pm The Asturias fire rescue group on board an air ambulance rescued the lifeless body of the victim from the estuary who had fallen into the water at the breakwater where the Guardia Civil took charge of the formalities for the removal of the body Lifestyle | Travel The Standard's journalism is supported by our readers When you purchase through links on our site Sign up for the best picks from our travel I would like to be emailed about offers, event and updates from Evening Standard. Read our privacy notice All I can hear are trees gently combed by the breeze while a lone bat skillfully navigates the void At this time of night the village of Valdemoros remains shrouded in mystery The view from my window reveals an enchanting Disney-esque landscape dappled in sunlight that seems to have Instagram set firmly in its sights They call it Green Spain but the verdant trees and pastures of Asturias are only part of the spectrum It’s not difficult to see why artists are drawn to this area That’s not to say Andalucia and its southern heat are less authentic but there’s more to the country than brain-frying sun and refried calamares Up on the northern coast between Cantabria and Galicia fanned by Atlantic winds and bolstered with fertile soil this stretch of land encompasses the beach-strewn Costa Verde smart towns and a wild interior that belies its diminutive size It’s the scale and diversity of Asturias that appeals With a car and three days to spare you can slice through the region soak up most of its highlights and sample a unique guest-house culture that’s far from the madding crowd And with new flights that launched from London earlier this summer the region is even more accessible than ever Spanish shoppers get fruity at the supermarket in their quest to find love Aviation minister commits to tackling ‘long overdue’ airspace modernisation Morrissey asks Pope Francis to ‘condemn the sinful spectacle of bullfighting’ Make more of London this autumn with these exciting experiences Torre de Valdemoros is one of a number of farms and grand houses branded as “Casonas Asturianas” that have been revamped into hotels dominated by a 15th-century stone tower and bags of rustic eye candy offering advice on the area while serving up the perfect breakfast a nondescript town on the Galician border that’s home to the Palacete de Peñalba a lemon fondant fancy of a building designed by Gaudi protégé Angel Arbex this remarkable confection is a standout example of Modernista Indianos a wild combination of Art Nouveau and vintage Latino that’s as exuberant as that sounds Built as show homes by wealthy Spaniards returning home from Cuba and Argentina Indianos properties are a feature of the area even those that stand half derelict are somehow more beguiling and beautiful because of it I’m so close to Galicia at this point it seems churlish not to visit the jaw-dropping Playa de las Catedrales It looks like a more extreme version of Cornwall: pointy pixie-like and full of intriguing spots including fishing harbours such as Viavélez with its solitary bar overlooking a dark green sea The countryside is relentlessly beautiful but marred at points by factories pumping out noxious smoke At times it feels like the Swiss Alps by way of Sheffield but there’s more green than grey often cited as one of Spain’s prettiest towns A steep decline down a windy road reveals a platoon of tall timbered houses as if Puerto Rico has been reimagined by Baz Luhrmann I’m fed by a weary-looking woman more interested in Candy Crush than pale-faced day trippers gesturing to the lack of customers as she serves up a plate of fabada a thick bean stew livened up with chunks of black pudding The Centro Niemeyer hits you like a giant space-age jellybean — a tour de force from Oscar Niemeyer the architect behind many of Brasilia’s most iconic structures The melding of art and industry worked well in Bilbao but this fantastically ambitious project housing a concert hall cinema and virtual landing strip seems slightly adrift Pierre Cardin and Moonraker will eat the place up but Avilés as a town needs to be equally appetising a genteel whisper of land that was once the summer getaway of Spain’s Princess Letizia It’s split between a manicured beach and jolly harbour where locals play cards and the headstrong drink cider like tap water The comparison is especially apt when you discover how it’s dispensed — poured from a great height I walk down a private beach and lay my hat at Villa Rosaria a huge Addams Family-style affair that takes the Indianos concept to new heights On a morning’s drive through the Picos de Europa while golden calves with eyelash extensions knock out disco percussion with their cowbells It’s nature with knobs on and a welcome rest before urban life beckons There’s a distinct rivalry between Gijon and Oviedo Gijon benefits from a city beach but lacks the good looks of Asturias’s capital Perhaps it’s the large student population spilling out of rock bars but it’s a world apart from Oviedo This is apparently Woody Allen’s favourite Spanish city Iberia Express (00 34 913 894 375; iberiaexpress.com) flies from Gatwick to Asturias Hotel Torre de Valdomoros (00 34 985 645 264; torrevillademoros.com) offers superior doubles from €100 Hotel Villa Rosario (00 34 985 860 090; hotelvillarosario.com) offers doubles from €219 Spanish Tourist Office (00 44 207 317 2011; spain.info) Prince Louis steals the show at VE Day parade as he keeps dad William looking sharp and mimics brother George Prince Louis steals show with sweet antics at VE parade VE Day 2025 fashion: best looks from the day VE Day 2025 fashion: Princess of Wales to Lady Victoria Starmer Ukraine 'launches stunning Kursk offensive' in major blow for Putin ahead of Victory Day celebrations Ukraine 'launches stunning Kursk offensive' in blow for Putin Stacey Solomon 'regrets doing reality show with Joe Swash' for tough reason Stacey Solomon 'regrets reality show with Joe Swash' for tough reason Royals watch historic flypast as huge crowds turns out for VE Day 80th anniversary  Royals watch historic Red Arrows flypast for VE Day 80th anniversary David Beckham’s 50th birthday bash in London 'shut down' by council over noise complaints David Beckham’s 50th birthday bash 'shut down' over noise complaints drink and stay in Spain's beautiful Asturias province11 November 2009All products are independently selected by our editors The rain in Spain falls mainly in the north delicious cheeses and ciderhouses of Asturias one of Spain's four 'autonomous communities' facing north into the Cantabrian Sea along with Galicia but also mountainous - utterly distinctive Ballota, Cudillero, Asturias (00 34 985 598 111; www.artehotel.net) A curious example of what can happen when you put urban minimalism in a rural context breezily put together with affordable materials in black Carretera Infiesto-Villaviciosa km16, Piloña, Asturias (00 34 985 710 445; www.hotelcasonadebustiello.com) Rambling country house in a splendid rural setting on an 11-hectare finca A splendid casa de Indianos (see Villa La Argentina below for an explanation) from 1877 set in a garden of camellias and magnolias renovated farmhouse that's dog-friendly family-friendly and refreshingly unpretentious Owner Iris Garcia is your super-helpful host Carrales, Caravia, Asturias (00 34 985 853 272; www.elbabu.com) this stone village house was brought radically up to date by its owners and architect Ricardo Lajara using neutral colours and modern materials La Preda, Llanes, Asturias (00 34 985 402 525; www.laposadadebabel.com) Few rural hotels in Spain are more daringly contemporary than this The design scheme is original and fascinating and it works superbly in its rural context Two suites and 10 rooms are housed in four highly individual buildings Taramundi, Asturias (00 34 985 646 760; www.larectoral.com) hard by the Galician border in a lush sylvan setting was an early pioneer of rural tourism and is now almost entirely given over to it Comandante Vallespín, Oviedo, Asturias (00 34 985 274 060; www.librettohotel.com) The hotel to stay at in Oviedo was until recently the Reconquista a grand old pile done out in suffocating 19th-century style have brought a breath of fresh air to a city as yet unused to contemporary style M occupies a round tower-block a little way outside the old city with rooms cleverly incorporated and thus unusually shaped with a touch of brothel kitsch in the zebra-skin alcove behind the beds 9 Plaza de España, Avilés, Asturias (00 34 985 129 080; www.nh-hotels.com) makes a wonderful base for a visit to this rather under-appreciated city Prelo, Boal, Asturias (00 34 985 620 718; www.palaciodeprelo.com) This modest 'palace' in a remote hamlet in western Asturias He has seamlessly combined rustic and modern using local chestnut wood for the ceilings and multi-coloured slate for the floors and lovingly preserving parts of the original house Cadavedo, Valdés, Asturias (00 34 985 645 264; www.torrevillademoros.com) Sea breezes provide the air-conditioning at this former farmhouse with a medieval stone tower on the flat coastal shelf known as the 'Rasa Costera' The interior design fearlessly combines the original stone with concrete columns Villar de Luarca, Asturias (00 34 985 640 102; www.villalaargentina.com) The Indianos were immigrants from Asturias who returned from the Americas with vast fortunes and built extravagant makes for a charming place to stay and is competitively priced 6 Dionisio Ruisánchez, Ribadesella, Asturias (00 34 985 860 090; www.hotelvillarosario.com) an Art Nouveau masterpiece on the seafront at Santa Marina beach dominates the surroundings with its delicious façade in Mediterranean blue Long-established sidrería just off Gascona (Oviedo's main cider drag) with plenty of atmosphere and free pinchos (snacks) handed round the tables sits in rolling countryside with views over apple and pear orchards and the mountains of Peña Mayor Gijón's most prestigious cider house and seafood bar SIDRERIA EL PLANETA Tránsito de las Ballenas including an impeccable besugo a la espalda (whole fish split down the middle and baked in the oven) at this classic sidrería with panoramic views of Gijón harbour Tinin is one of several sidrerías around the port of Ribadesella specialising in seafood raciones washed down with cider this sidrería is run by the reliable Crivencar group and is pleasantly decorated in rustic style A small shop near the entrance sells Asturian products Crivencar also has a bigger shop up by the central market CASA GERARDO Carretera, Prendes, Asturias (00 34 985 588 7797; www.casa-gerardo.com) Both the arroz con leche and the fabada asturiana reach a pitch of perfection at Casa Gerardo this renowned restaurant is as well known for inventive modern cooking as for traditional Asturian staples CASA MARCIAL 10 La Salgar, Arriondas, Asturias (00 34 985 840 991; www.casamarcial.com) Chef Nacho Manzano holds court in what was once the family home Manzano's reinterpreted traditional cuisine has won him two Michelin stars: maize tortillas with onion confit and his crunchy pancetta with fabada vinaigrette and raw vegetables are definitely worth trying Famous for its delicious fritos de pixin (deep-fried monkfish) locally landed andaricas (crabs) and oven-baked fish GALLERY ART & FOOD 118 Carretera de la Costa This new place - a combination of art space contemporary restaurant and trendy watering-hole - has revolutionised the food scene in Gijón RESTAURANTE SIDRERIA JORGE Calle del Muelle, Asturias (00 34 985 648 211). Super-fresh fish and shellfish, just off the boat, are the best reasons to come here. Caldeirada, a mixed fish stew (originating in Portugal), is typical of the cuisine around Navia, as is venera, a kind of almond tart.https://www.cntraveller.com/article/travel-guide-asturias this neolithic site looms on a hilltop above the road Castros (fortified villages) are two-a-penny in Asturias with its honeycomb arrangement of circular stone huts It was once surrounded by meadows; now a motorway access road screams by The interior of this ancient church (dating from the late eight century) is magical CHURCH OF SAN SALVADOR DE VALDEDIOS Valdediós El Conventín ('The Little Convent') is a well-preserved late-ninth-century church in the lovely village of Valdediós in a hillside pasture of Monte Naranco above Oviedo is an exquisite little palace in pinkish stone built for Asturian King Ramiro I in the mid-ninth century and converted to a church in the 12th century The entire corpus of Asturian pre-Romanesque architecture has now been declared a World Heritage site Brañas were the communities of stone shacks which were inhabited by shepherds during their long stays in the high pastures in summer in the heart of the Parque Natural de Somiedo is one of the biggest and best-preserved in Asturias It is reached on foot from the village of Villar de Vildas FUNDACION ARCHIVO DE INDIANOS: MUSEO DE LA EMIGRACION, COLOMBRES Quinta Guadalupe, Colombres, Asturias (www.archivodeindianos.es) Asturias' museum about the phenomenon of local emigration to Cuba Argentina and Mexico is housed in the Quinta Guadalupe built by Iñigo Noriega Laso when he returned from Mexico a rich man in 1906 The quinta's gardens are among the finest in the region MUSEO DE LA SIDRA - THE CIDER MUSEUM Plaza Principe de Asturias, Nava, Asturias (www.museodelasidra.com) Drive out to the orchards and the rolling hills between Nava the capital town of 'La Comarca de la Sidra' (Cider County) still has loads of atmosphere and some great cider houses This attractive harbour town has something of a Mediterranean look when the sun is on it picking out the colours of the brightly painted façades shown off once a year on 29 June at the fiesta of San Pedro Just when you thought the authentic working fishing village was a thing of the past Luarca is the most pleasant and genuine of all Asturian coastal villages The village still depends largely on fishing to survive and tourism has not yet made much of an impact Mesón de la Mar on the harbourside does good seafood tapas A perfect little fishing port midway between Navia and Luarca reminiscent of the harbour villages on Cornwall's coast Little white houses with coloured balconies crowd up the cliffside Just 15 minutes' drive from Gijón on the new motorway Tazones is in danger of becoming a victim of its own picturesqueness This splendid beach is reached by a narrow road which winds down through eucalyptus woods Summer weekends see it fill up with families from nearby Avilés The beach forms part of a natural park in Valdés which includes a river estuary inhabited by otters A path from the clifftop leads through forests and fields down to a superb stretch of sand Few visitors bother to make the half-hour trek This aptly named beach (one of Spain's most beautiful) near Cudillero is remarkable not so much for the sand-and-stone beach itself as for its impressive surrounding landscape of rock formations The bay encloses a circle of calm water for snorkelling this is one of a string of pretty beaches between Ribadesella and Llanes the rising tide transforming the energetic breakers into a peaceful lagoon Various restaurants serve seafood and Asturian specialities A small chiringuito above the beach sells drinks and snacks Torimbia is known as Asturias' main nudist beach Reached through a narrow gorge with lush vegetation harbouring rare species and a few decent restaurants complete the picture (www.feve.es) This narrow-gauge train creeps along the coast from Santander to Gijón and back stopping at every tiny station along the way Don't be in a hurry: the service runs just once or twice a day cloudier and wetter than elsewhere in Spain Autumns and winters tend to be fairly wet and cloudy BY TRAIN Asturias and Santander is on Spain's national train grid - RENFE (www.renfe.es) trains run from many parts of the country and stop in Oviedo and Gijón BY BUS When travelling from one part of Asturias to another, or from Spain's interior to the province, check the regional bus company ALSA's schedules (www.alsa.es). Fabada - the signature dish of Asturias: a powerful stew of fabas (big white beans) with smoked chorizo, ham, morcilla and bacon. Cabrales - Asturias has no fewer than 43 cheese products, making it undoubtedly the cheese capital of Spain. Cabrales, a powerful cow's-milk blue cheese, is a worthy rival to both Stilton and Roquefort, and possibly finer than either. Empanada - shallow covered pie with a thick crust and various fillings such as tuna, minced meat or sardines. Fritos de pixin - deep-fried monkfish chunks. Torto de maiz - small maize-flour tortilla, often fried until it puffs up. Pote - take-no-prisoners stew, typical of western Asturias, containing potato, cabbage, mixed meats and sausages. Lacón - sweet-cured ham from the shoulder. Arroz con leche - creamy rice pudding: the Asturiano dessert. Casadielles - puff-pastry sweetmeats with walnut stuffing. Plains, mountains, a dramatic coastline and pit stops for great food and wine punctuate this two-week route between the national and Galician capitals• More Spain road trips: San Sebastián-Valencia and Málaga-Jerez Madrid is a dynamic city In recent years it has added important art galleries and avant-garde restaurants – without losing its soul It has the same rustic tavernas and unfussy bars that writers such as Ernest Hemingway fell in love with in the 1920s Also close by are the bohemian neighbourhoods of El Barrio de las Letras and La Latina with great bars and restaurants open until late a long street in La Latina full of places serving good wine and tapas a comfortable hotel with original stone walls and exposed beams from the town’s castle and from here take a jaunt down the Calle Gascona where dexterous waiters pour shots of cider into glasses from improbable heights a big pot of white beans cooked with smoked meats and sausages Cudillero. Photograph: Mikel Bilbao/Getty ImagesIt’s a 40-minute drive north-east on the A66 to the fishing village of Cudillero. Stay a few nights at La Casona de Pio (doubles from €71 room only) and enjoy the town’s pastel-coloured houses which make the main square into a residential amphitheatre The best thing to do here is lose yourself in the town’s narrow alleyways but make time also for a trip to the emblematic lighthouse which perches like a heron on the rocky cliffs There are 7,582 municipios with a population of 15,000 or fewer and you could argue until las vacas come home over which has the most dramatic castle or most charming plaza Founded in 2011 Los Pueblos Mas Bonitos de España is a highly selective association of villages deemed the nation’s prettiest To be considered the community must have a population of 15,000 or fewer and have “an architectural or natural heritage” — in other words It is then judged by the association according to 29 criteria “the aesthetic treatment of overhead lines” and — crucially in the 21st century — “the existence of artisans” Those that pass selection become part of a highly selective club that comprises just 105 members — or the top 1.4 per cent of all Spanish villages The potential rewards for the poorest are huge the gravity-defying village of El Castell de Guadalest so bear in mind that in peak season and at weekends you could be part of the problem rather than the solution But remember that many of these destinations are in the deepest and a charming disdain for the digital revolution Some of the entries below contain affiliate links If you click on one of these links and make a purchase we will earn revenue The revenue generated enables us to go on investing in our award-winning journalism All entries were chosen entirely independently based on the writer’s first-hand knowledge and research ● What are the entry requirements for Spain?● The top places to visit in Spain Sign up for our Times Travel newsletter and follow us on Instagram and Twitter There’s so much to explore for Camino pilgrims or those simply seeking a memorable holiday There is nothing quite like spending time in northern Spain to reinvigorate the soul When the generous invitation came from the Spanish Tourism Board in Dublin to join a week-long press trip along the Camino del Norte from Santander to Santiago de Compostela In the company of four Dublin-based journalists the busy itinerary was designed to provide an insight of the history popular tourism attractions and culinary delights of three regions along the Bay of Biscay coastline very proud provinces in their own right along the northern way of the Camino Walk The journey started in the capital of Cantabria rightly considered to have one of the most beautiful bays in the world Its splendid climate enticed the King and Queen of Spain to make it their summer court from 1913 to 1930 their residence being the Royal Palace of La Magdalena providing us with the best vantage points for photographs of the grounds and stunning sea views Santander is such an elegant city and it was wonderful to spend time walking the promenade that stretches for miles It’s a place worthy of a return visit in order to explore it further could not wait to bring us to the town of Comillas to show us El Capricho de Gaudi a residence described as a hidden gem of modernism designed by Antoni Gaudi and built between 1883 and 1885 for the summer use of a wealthy gentleman named Máximo Díaz de Quijano who sadly died a year after the project was completed the eye-catching Pontifical University standing proudly on its elevated site Camino pilgrims passing through are immediately struck by its splendour seating on benches in a nearby park giving their limbs some light relief after a long day’s walking The cobbled streets led us to the El Carel Restaurant where we savoured our first Spanish lunch mussels and fresh sardines followed by sea bass on the bone a meal completed by the finest cheesecake in Cantabria wine is an integral part of the dining experience to find a delegation representing local anchovy business interests awaiting to tell us that they needed greater support from the EU to protect their jobs and investment Who could have imagined that anchovies could lead to a political story but this is the area of Spain that produces the finest and the fishermen clearly believe they are getting a raw deal Day two began with a history lesson in the village of Cades a popular stopping point for Camino pilgrims Here we were taken back in time to an ironworks where smiths spent long hours over hot coals in a forge crafting flat iron bars that had a variety of uses a large hammer powered by a watermill central to the success of their work It was a challenging way to make a living back in the 15th and 16th centuries having to live on-site for long periods of the year and put up with the persistent hammering noise night and day But it was people like those who helped to lay the foundations for Spain’s splendid infrastructure a visit to the chilly El Soplao Cave was a welcome diversion Judging by the crowds waiting to board the next train underground this was clearly a leading tourist attracting in Cantabria Located in a wonderfully scenic spot in the Sierra Soplao Arnero the cave is recognised as one of the greatest wonders of geology was very well organised but required additional English-speaking guides Next on the itinerary was a tour of a beautiful town rich in monumental heritage where medieval history lurks around every corner It was lovely to see pilgrims relaxing in the local restaurants after a long day in their walking boots We got an opportunity to enjoy the walking experience along the Nansa River a very old section of the trail with beautiful water views and leafy lanes Our lunch stop was at Restaurant Casa Jandro in the quiet village of Celis where roast lamb chops dressed in sea salt and rosemary were mouth-watering This brought our time in Cantabria to a end as the province of Asturias now beckoned - and an unexpected surprise The town of Llanes introduced us to the local cider and it does not have the effervescent quality with which cider is associated in these parts it is the task of the waiter or waitress to pour it for you with considerable skill and concentration extending the hand holding the green bottom to a point as high as possible over the head before tipping about an eighth of the bottle’s content into the glass being held in the other hand The recipient is then advised to drink the cider immediately before the cider loses its fizz and the process is repeated again and again throughout the meal and is very much a novelty to those experiencing the ritual for the first time greenhorns have to master the art themselves should they wish to continue drinking the cider in a pub afterwards although there is never a shortage of willing advice from the locals Llanes is a very welcoming town and clearly one accustomed to the persistent flow of visitors savouring the cobbled streets A busy schedule awaited us on day three with visits to Colunga where we enjoyed a marvellous lunch at Barrigón de Bertin before arriving in the imposing coastal city of Gijón We strolled through the old fisherman’s quarter of Cimadevilla located on a hill overlooking the 15th largest city in Spain with a population of over 270,000 It was built at the city’s marina in 2013 using 3,200 bottles and weighing up to eight tonnes Its message is very clear in this era of reuse and renewal: every time we reuse something we are saving a part of nature The tree even has its own dedicated website A few miles from the Gijón we were introduced to the Universidad Laboral a unique and quite remarkable structure built by General Franco between 1946 and 1956 as an orphanage for children who lost their parents to mining accidents in the region Originally constructed as a symbol of a new Spain in the aftermath of the Civil War its church has one of the biggest elliptical domes in the world as well as the tallest stone clock tower in Spain It seems it never reached its full potential due to its political association with General Franco and many Spaniards today don’t even know it exists sections of it are now being used as an institute of education even to glean an insight of how the dictator wanted to portray himself to the world during that era his ulterior motives not winning him many admirers in his own land A step from the past into the ultra-modern and fashionable city of Oviedo was a welcome leap No wonder the famous film director Woody Allen loved it so much and there’s a statue in his honour on one of the streets close to San Francisco Park chose Oviedo as one of the settings for his 2008 film This writer would strongly recommend a trip to Oviedo at any time of year There is something very uplifting about the place and it is where the 320-kilometre Pilgrims’ Way starts and can be completed in two weeks Ovievo is rich in pre-romanic monuments and a visits to its old town Asturias was proving another lovely adventure and a tour of the captivating Niemeyer Centre after spending some time in the historic town of Avilés and is a facility of which the locals are very proud Our time in Asturias concluded with visits to a number of beautiful coastal villages including Cudillero all of which would appeal to Irish visitors who enjoy a sunny climate in the lower rather than higher 20 degrees a region with strong similarities to Ireland due to its Celtic traditions After a stroll and swim on the magnificent Cathedral Beach (Playa de la Catedrales) of which the local environmental and conservation authority take great care our appetites were adequately appeased by the staff of the San Miguel Restaurant in the attractive port town of Ribadeo From there our guides accompanied us to Lourenzá to visit the Monastery of San Salvador before venturing to Mondonedo and its spectacular Our overnight resting place was the National Parador Hotel in Vilalba a former fortress and tower dating back to the 13th century When you see the prices being charged by some hotels in Ireland this is wonderful value after a long day on the road and the rooms are simply class it was lovely to see so many walkers on the street preparing for the final leg of their journey into Santiago de Compostela While we arrived in the magical city by bus rather than on foot there was still an immense sense of having completed a memorable journey rich in culture every aspect of life seems to rotate around its centre point before joining in the celebration of walkers in the cathedral square A stroll through the historic centre brought us to the Horta D’obradoiro Restaurant and its spectacular range of dishes we had not savoured previously The weekend social scene in the city goes long into the night with music Santiago de Compostela must go down on your bucket list There is nothing quite like it anywhere in the world Footnote: Thanks to the Spanish Tourism Board in Ireland for the generous invitation; our guides for showing us all the best places along the Northern Camino Way; the other members of the media group who helped make the journey so enjoyable; to the people of Cantabria Asturias and Galicia for making us feel so welcome World time trial champion Hanka Kupfernagel has decided to ride the race again this year after first threatening not to appear at all after she was not named to the team for the road race "We have to accept the federation's unsportsmanship Hanka is preparing herself for the time trial," her coach and partner Mike Kluge said "She was very upset that she was not nominated for the World's road race on September 27 Maybe she won't ride at all in Varese – we will have to think about it." Sports Director of the German Cycling Federation said that "in light of the most recent results," German national women's coach Jochen Dornbusch "had put together a team that will have success in Varese." with Kupfernagel nominated only to defend her time trial title