Look out for your first newsletter in your inbox soon
We help you navigate a myriad of possibilities
Sign up for our newsletter for the best of the city
By entering your email address you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy and consent to receive emails from Time Out about news
Sign up for our email to enjoy your city without spending a thing (as well as some options when you’re feeling flush)
Our newsletter hand-delivers the best bits to your inbox
Sign up to unlock our digital magazines and also receive the latest news
By entering your email address you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy and consent to receive emails from Time Out about news, events, offers and partner promotions.
Barcelona
follows the same line and lives up to the expectations that come along with the hotel’s reputation: with views that sweep from Tibidabo to Montjuïc
Sagrada Família and Casa Batlló along the way
The terrace is just the right size to avoid crowds
creating a relaxed atmosphere with a hint of romance
The menu covers everything you’d expect from a luxury rooftop – a set menu (€68 per person) featuring ceviche
you might want to consider La Dolce Vitae as an option for a special occasion rather than for a cloudy Tuesday afternoon
This review was fact-checked and updated in 2025.
📍 Discover the best rooftop bars in Barcelona
Thanks for subscribing! Look out for your first newsletter in your inbox soon!
facebooktwitterspotifytiktokAbout us
Contact us
Time Out Worldwide
First published: February 18, 2025 07:57 PM
Associations of neighbours from the Eixample neighborhood in Barcelona presented a report on Tuesday in which they say they have detected 232 "speculative" single-ownership properties.
With these "speculative processes", the associations claim that between 2016 and 2024 there have been 4,000 "invisible evictions" which they estimate have affected 10,000 residents.
Included in these are five senior citizens' homes and a day center that have been "expelled" from the district in the years analyzed.
To consider a property to be "speculative," they have taken into account whether there has been any activity that could be considered as such, including the purchase of an entire building or a single property intended for the commercialization of homes, new construction or major renovation promotions, contract cancellation processes, and eviction of residents or rental prices that exceed the average price index, among others.
This was explained by Jaume Artigues, president of the Dreta de l'Eixample residents' association explained, at the event on Tuesday.
The study found 131 such properties in the Dreta de l'Eixample area, 48 in the Esquerra de l'Eixample, 24 in Sagrada Família, 18 in Sant Antoni, and 11 in Fort Pienc.
Residents have also noted the average price of the property on offer is nearly 33% higher than compared to the city average.
The study also detected that 70% of the rental offer in the Eixample is short-term, which avoids having the price regulation applied to it. Meanwhile, 21% of the beds in the district are for tourist use.
They have recorded 97 judicial and 4,000 "invisible" evictions in the time period studied, with around 10,000 residents affected. However, this figure is a rough estimate, as it comes from a calculation by the neighborhood associations regarding the average number of homes in a building and the number of people living on average in each home.
In presenting the results, which are part of a study that is still underway, the president of the Dreta de l'Eixample residents' association denounced that current laws are "too weak" against speculation and claimed that "more decisive market intervention than has been done so far" is needed.
Get the day's biggest stories right to your phone
This district of Barcelona combines data that seem contradictory and yet coexist in a unique way
With only 2.01 square meters of green per person and alarming levels of nitrogen dioxide that exceed the limits recommended by the World Health Organization (WHO)
one would expect the quality of life to be low
women born here have a life expectancy of 87.5 years
The report presented last week at the district’s plenary session reveals a complex picture
Despite the deficiencies in terms of green spaces and high pollution
the Eixample has an unemployment rate bordering on full employment
In neighborhoods such as l’Esquerra de l’Eixample
this positive figure is tempered by the difficulties of accessing the real estate market in this area
where the price per square meter is 4,752 euros
The Eixample is also the district with the highest concentration of tourist apartments in the city
and has a stock of 38,771 homes inhabited by a single person
which further increases the already impressive life expectancy
the possibility of staying in the Eixample throughout one’s life is more the exception than the rule
One of the most striking aspects of the report is the low birth rate in the district
there are 8,083 children between the ages of zero and four in the Eixample
while the number of registered pets exceeds that figure
This uniqueness is also reflected in the negative population balance that the district
The population is only stable thanks to immigration
which represents 28.9% of the total in the Eixample
The Eixample is home to a unique mix of profiles
Large companies coexist here with a high density of elderly people
The report highlights that 30.4% of Barcelona’s commercial companies are based in this district
making it a kind of business hub for the city
of the 8,308 new companies incorporated in the city
the district is also home to a sizeable population of centenarians
205 women over 100 years of age reside in the Eixample
reinforcing the idea that this is a space where very different generations and lifestyles intermingle
scarce presence of green areas and exorbitant housing prices
it remains a hotspot for residents and investors alike
the question remains: how long will it be able to maintain this balance
With climate change hitting hard and population density bordering the limit
authorities and neighbors will have to find solutions to keep the Eixample a livable and prosperous place
Stock images by Depositphotos
La venta de la nuda propiedad
Copyright © 2022 Salirporbarcelona , All rights Reserved. Created by JEZZ Media
SpainChevron
CataloniaChevron
BarcelonaChevron
Save this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors
we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links
Attracting the whole gamut of visitors—from curious solo travelers to romantics drawn to music and dance—this destination has something for everyone
We've selected these listings based on Superhost status, ratings, amenities, location, decor, editor stays, and previous guest reviews. This gallery has been updated with new information since its original publish date.
spacious wardrobesNearby: Recinte Modernista de Sant Pau
2 bathsTop amenities: Rooftop with Sagrada Familia views
eclectic lightingNearby: Casa Vicens Gaudi
With an open floor plan that offers sight lines from the kitchen to the living room and the dining room, kid-friendly amenities like cribs and high chairs available upon request, and a glassed-in terrace that offers all the natural light and views but none of the stress, this three bedroom apartment is a family-friendly dream. The neighborhood is extremely walkable and there are tons of restaurants nearby, too.
The colorful, wallpapered rooms of this three-bedroom Airbnb Plus apartment are a major draw, but it's the spacious, partially covered outdoor terrace that serves as an additional living and dining space that caught our eye. Inside, you'll also find a well-stocked kitchen, living and dining rooms, and a washer/dryer. Right on the border of the Gràcia and Eixample neighborhoods, there's plenty to explore by foot nearby, including the luxe Passeig de Gracia.
up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel
Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse
We understand that time is the greatest luxury
which is why Condé Nast Traveler mines its network of experts and influencers so that you never waste a meal
or a hotel stay wherever you are in the world
The flats have a useful floor space of between 41 and 45 square metres and all of them have an outdoor terrace. The rooftop is available for all residents to use as a communal space, with cultivation areas, leisure and relaxation spaces.
Rental prices for the homes are established according to the financial capacity of the tenant with a maximum of 541 euros, including communal costs and services. Twelve of the 47 homes have been reserved for local people from the neighbourhood.
The U-shaped building is on the corner of C/ Viladomat and C/ Consell de Cent. It consists of a ground floor, which will house the centre for the elderly (opening in the autumn), six floors with a total of 47 flats with services, and an underground car park with two levels and a capacity for 33 vehicles. The shape of the site meant a public access could also be created to get to the inner gardens of the block from C/ Viladomat.
Eixample, Barcelona, Spain
Contemporary
Rustic
Scandinavian
3
Bernat and Liliana’s apartment is in the heart of Barcelona’s Eixample area
“a historic area with a unique architectural style,” Bernat begins
interconnected spaces typical of modernist buildings
and traditional elements like load-bearing walls and Catalan ceramic vaults immediately attracted us.”
Keep up with our latest house tours each weekday with our House Tour of the Day newsletter
By subscribing, you acknowledge and agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy
open day area that combines the living room
the interconnected spaces allow us to move seamlessly between different activities."“The apartment’s history and original architectural features
such as the wooden beams and ceramic vaults
provide a charming and authentic backdrop for our modern living needs.”
We also created a circular opening in a load-bearing wall using handmade ceramic bricks to connect the master bedroom with the living room-kitchen area
they made sure to aim to “preserve the essence of the original structure while adapting it to modern needs,” Bernat describes
singular," are words the couple uses to describe their home's style.“We restored the ceilings
and used traditional materials like lime and natural pigments
The kitchen was relocated to benefit from natural light
and the overall layout was adjusted to create a more open and connected living space
We focused on restoring and reintegrating these features
This tour’s responses and photos were edited for length/size and clarity
Share your style: House Tour & House Call Submission Form
Read the commentsFiled in:Apartment The home you love starts here
The home you love starts here
Apartment TherapyThe wordmark for the Apartment Therapy brand.More From Us
By subscribing, you acknowledge and agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.
Barcelona is to introduce a ban on pub crawls in the city's Eixample district from June 1
The ban will be in place for two years initially
with advertising pub crawls also forbidden
The measure is being brought in as the city believes pub crawls to be "incompatible with community harmony and residents' rest."
The mayoral decree will "completely restrict the promotion
organization and execution of organized routes for the purpose of alcohol consumption between public establishments in the district
to 7:00 am," according to the city council
It also prohibits "any type of advertising of these activities."
The ban in the Eixample district, known for its distinctive grid layout and Catalan modernist architecture, follows the example of a similar decree that has been in effect in the city's old town – the Ciutat Vella district – since 2012, in force until at least 2028.
Justifying the measure, the council cites "the risk posed by the irresponsible consumption of alcohol, especially in relation to its impact on specific public spaces in the district, notably high-tension areas such as green corridors or zones with a high concentration of nightlife establishments, like the area around Enric Granados. This results in disturbances and complaints from the public."
High numbers of tourists are another reason given by the council for the pub crawl ban, "with the aim of "preventing certain tourism operators, in collaboration with specific establishments, from promoting activities that negatively affect the city's image and the quality of life in local neighborhoods."
There is a 20-day public consultation period for any objections. The measure is set to come into effect on June 1.
Barcelona City Council also reported that in 2023 and 2024, 366 sanction procedures were initiated related to the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages in the Eixample district.
The council stated that they are taking steps to more effectively control the sale and consumption of alcohol, particularly with regard to minors and outside of authorized hours.
The Mayor’s Decree has been published in the Official Gazette of the Province of Barcelona on 21st February 2025
announcing the initial approval of the measure
A twenty-day public consultation period is now open for any objections
The decree will fully prohibit the promotion
organisation and execution of organised alcohol consumption routes between public establishments in the district between 7:00 p.m
It will also ban any form of advertising for these activities through any medium
The regulation is set to come into force on 1st June 2025
L’Eixample follows the steps of the decree that has been in place in the Ciutat Vella district since 2012
while also preventing the potential negative impacts of this practice shifting elsewhere
One of the reasons for this measure is that these routes disrupt community life
particularly by obstructing the free movement of people and disturbing neighbours’ rest
the irresponsible consumption of alcohol is a risk to certain public spaces within the district
particularly high-pressure areas such as green corridors and heavily saturated leisure areas
which leads to public disturbances and an increase in complaints from residents
This special measure is also justified by the exceptionally high influx of tourists in L’Eixample
Inspection services and the Municipal Police have increased their efforts to monitor and regulate the sale and consumption of alcohol
particularly when it comes to underage drinking and consumption outside permitted hours
Data from 2023 and 2024 confirms that 366 sanctioning procedures were initiated in L’Eixample in response to this behaviour
A giant white-light-bulb marquee spells out the name of what's on at the Coliseum
a building that was inaugurated in 1923 as a cinema and that since 2006 has been host to all types of theatre productions
now under the ownership of Grup Balañà
who was inspired by the Paris Ópera
Recently it has also been used as a concert venue
The Barcelona City Council is firmly committed to transforming the Eixample, following the success of the Sant Antoni superblock. The idea is to continue applying tactical urbanism in the streets to turn them into green axes with squares
is that in 10 years this urban planning model will be implemented in the most populated district of Barcelona
All with the aim of converting the 21 streets between Plaça Espanya and Plaça de les Glòries into green axes complemented by the construction of 21 octagonal squares
If you want to imagine in advance what the Eixample will be like in the coming years
you can go for a walk around Sant Antoni market
An environment where the priority is the pedestrian and where you can see people tasting coffee
Everything will become an environment formerly occupied by cars
The cars that will be allowed to circulate in the zone will have to do so at no more than 10 km/h (6 mph)
The large superblock is considered a transformative project for the city
The Mayor’s Office took as a reference for its development the “Cerdà plan” that modernized the City of Barcelona at the end of the 19th century
it was possible to recover the spirit of urban transformation that was key to changing the Eixample for the 21st century
It is expected that in ten years one of every three streets in the district (the most polluted in the city) will become a green area and that the residents of the area and all the inhabitants of the city will have a square of a similar size to those of Gràcia
Each square will mean that cars will have to turn as they will not be able to continue in a straight line
as happens in the superblocks of Sant Antoni and 22@
cars and delivery vans that have to work in the area
The superblock proposal is conditional on improvements related to public transport and mobility
steps that the City Council has been taking with the Generalitat and the Government
public transport could be reduced by some 350,000 vehicles crossing the Eixample every day
in the case of the extension of the Trambesòs from Glòries to Passeig Sant Joan
it could be thought that about 40,000 fewer vehicles would circulate in this area of the city
the municipal government will start the Eixample readaptation project on four streets (Consell de Cent
betting on tactical urbanism in the midst of the de-escalation of the first wave of pandemic
Each octagonal plaza will be about 2,000 square meters
In early February 2025, Barcelona Mayor Jaume Collboni announced that the city government, together with non-profit social entity Hàbitat3
would purchase Casa Orsola from the investment fund Lioness Inversiones for €9.2 million.
“All evictions will be suspended as we buy the building as a city along with an entity that has a funded experience and a long-term trajectory to send a strong message," Collboni announced at the time
adding that the move was “extraordinary” and a “pioneering operation.”
Not everyone shared the mayor’s enthusiasm
and the move was widely criticized across political and social interests.
the Association of Real Estate Agents of Catalonia (AIC) and the Association of Real Estate Property Agents of Barcelona (API) called Casa Orsola “another piece in a model of public intervention that demotivates and destabilizes the rental market.”
The latter also stated that a “worrisome precedent” had been created
while the Catalan Owners’ Association went a step further and called the precedent “very dangerous.”
housing activists did not hesitate to criticize the news.
spokesperson for the 2nd Housing Congress of Catalonia told the Catalan News Agency (ACN)
that they couldn’t celebrate the purchase “as a victory” because they were not in favor of “injecting private companies with public money.”
said that while it was “great” that the city would have more public housing units
the real question was: “What price are we willing to pay for it?”
Lionness Inversiones originally bought the modernist Eixample building for €5.4 million and stands to make around €3.8 million profit from the sale
a fact that has been condemned both by the Tenants’ Union and Eixample residents alike.
“The bad side of it is that the person who created the problem is the one who ends up winning
because [Lioness Inversiones] makes money from selling the building,” Claudia
who lives in Eixample tells Catalan News.
the Tenants’ Union criticized that "instead of helping the tenants
the city council decided to turn its back on the tenants and the union to ensure that the speculator doesn’t lose a single euro.”
saying that the sale price was 30% lower than the average market price for similar housing in the same district of the city.
According to Mariano, a Barcelona resident, the deal should have been made before the evictions began.
“The most important thing is that it shouldn’t happen again,” he stresses
and people with millions and millions buy up houses to throw people out of their homes.”
Although Hàbitat3 has admitted that the deal has not yet been finalized
another criticism of the possible purchase is what Carme Arcarazo sees as a lack of transparency.
“It was an agreement that was signed behind closed doors,” she complains
“It’s very unfair that someone who has tortured the neighbors for three years is now being rewarded.”
She also questions the mayor’s motives behind the deal: “I think the reason why Jaume Collboni bought it is because he saw that this was becoming a mobilization that was growing every day
and could become a problem for the council.”
Meanwhile, it’s hard to find consensus on how to solve the housing problem even though access to housing was the main concern of Catalans, according to a 2024 survey conducted by the Center for Opinion Studies.
who both live near Casa Orsola are not convinced by the “Casa Orsola model” because they believe that each case should be treated equally.
While Maribel says that it’s “very good” that the residents won’t lose their homes, buying only Casa Orsola when there are many others in need is not “fair”
why aren’t others?” she asks rhetorically.
Carlos agrees: “This is not the only such case
and all of them deserve to be resolved in the same way.”
“This issue could have been handled in many ways
and I don’t think the city has handled it properly.”
but at least it’s a way to increase the housing stock
“I don’t think the perfect solution exists
and you can't make everybody happy.”
Jaume Collboni has said that he is open to applying the “Casa Orsola model” again
although it should be studied "case by case but what needs to be done is to change the rules of the game," as "there is no magic solution."
Casa Orsola has become a symbol of Barcelona's housing crisis in recent years and has gathered much media attention.
The building was purchased by investment fund Lioness Inversiones in 2021 and since then has stopped renewing leases of the residents in the building, favoring instead to convert the flats into short-term lets, which are exempt from any rent cap regulation.
This menu requires arrow keys to be able to use it
Located in the district of L’Eixample on the corner of C/ Viladomat and C/ Consell de Cent
the new homes include services such as communal spaces for leisure and relaxation
The ground floor of the building will be used as a centre for the elderly
The flats have a useful floor space of between 41 and 45 square metres and all of them have an outdoor terrace
The rooftop is available for all residents to use as a communal space
Rental prices for the homes are established according to the financial capacity of the tenant with a maximum of 541 euros
Twelve of the 47 homes have been reserved for local people from the neighbourhood
The U-shaped building is on the corner of C/ Viladomat and C/ Consell de Cent
which will house the centre for the elderly (opening in the autumn)
six floors with a total of 47 flats with services
and an underground car park with two levels and a capacity for 33 vehicles
The shape of the site meant a public access could also be created to get to the inner gardens of the block from C/ Viladomat
This development brings the number of homes with services for the elderly in Barcelona to 1,825 in all
Managed by the Municipal Institute for Social Service
the model of homes with services for the elderly in Barcelona includes features such as telecare phone lines
multi-purpose halls for communal activities
cleaning and internal alarms in case any incidents occur
Social activities are also organised to combat unwanted loneliness
The goal is to reach 2,000 homes with services for the elderly this year
Casa Amàlia is a long-established restaurant (it first opened all the way back in 1950) right in front of the Concepció Market
offering a classic and uncomplicated menu where quality ingredients and traditional cooking take centre stage
when Jordi Castán and Sergi Suaña took over – a duo with decades of experience in high-end dining and a focus on local produce
but then things get interesting: the main courses are divided into two sections
one dedicated to tradition and one to transformation
you'll find wonderful classic dishes like grilled monkfish with a fish and sherry velouté and fennel
or three-meat cannelloni with béchamel sauce
The transformation section offers playful creations like the ‘Mallorcan panalena’
a grilled aubergine with thinly sliced bacon
This culinary creation evokes the pleasure of sobrasada with honey
They take pride in highlighting the finest products
even specifying on the menu which stall in the Concepció Market (which supplies 50% of the kitchen) has supplied each ingredient
the cod with tarragon mousseline and rum-soaked raisins is a light
and delicious reinvention of the typically heavy cod with garlic mousseline
It's not just the food that's exquisite – the elegant refurbishment makes it a fitting place for those looking to impress someone special
Still hungry? Check out our list of the best restaurants in Barcelona.
Barcelona was suffocating – until unknown engineer Ildefons Cerdà came up with a radical expansion plan
yet his scientific approach changed how we think about cities
it had grown increasingly dense throughout the industrial revolution
mostly spearheaded by the huge development of the textile sector
The city was living at a faster pace than the rest of Spain
and was ready to become a European capital
Yet its population of 187,000 still lived in a tiny area
With a density of 856 inhabitants per hectare (Paris had fewer than 400 at the time)
the rising mortality rates were higher than those in Paris and London; life expectancy had dropped to 36 years for the rich and just 23 years for the working classes
almost literally suffocating the people of Barcelona – who were addressed directly in the following public statement of 1843:
“‘Down with the walls!’ has said this province’s council
and ‘Down with the walls!’ has no doubt answered your town hall
which knows the importance of making this girdle disappear that is squeezing and choking us.”
horse-drawn carts – was problematic too: the city’s narrowest street (now gone) was just 1.10 metres wide
while around 200 were less than three metres across
combined with residents’ Mediterranean way of life (which meant being on the street whenever it was light – and in the case of some artisanal professionals
worsened an already severe lack of hygiene in the city
Retreating facades, taken from L’Eixample: 150 Anys d’HistòriaBarcelona’s epidemics were devastating: each time they broke out
geography and urbanism professor at Universitat Autònoma de Barcelona
Cholera alone killed more than 13,000 people between 1834 and 1865
His plan consisted of a grid of streets that would unite the old city with seven peripheral villages (which later became integral Barcelona neighbourhoods such as Gràcia and Sarrià)
The united area was almost four times the size of the old city (which was around 2 sq km) and would come to be known as Eixample
This unknown engineer was revolutionary in what he envisioned – but also in how he got there
Cerdà decided to avoid repeating past errors by undertaking a comprehensive study of how the working classes lived in the old city
“He had thought he would find all these urbanism books
Cerdà’s eye was as careful as it is fascinating
His was the first meticulous scientific study both of what a modern city was
and what it could aspire to be – not only as an efficient cohabiting space
but as a source of wellbeing (not a straightforward concept back then)
He calculated the volume of atmospheric air one person needed to breathe correctly
He detailed professions the population might do
Cerdà's was the first meticulous scientific study both of what a modern city was, and what it could aspire to beIn short, Cerdà invented “urbanisation” – a word (and discipline) that didn’t exist in Spanish or Catalan, nor English or French, and which he codified in his General Theory of Urbanisation in 1867
His work is still studied in Catalan schools to this day
“The high mortality rates of the working class population
pushed Cerdà to design a new type of urban planning,” wrote Pallarès-Barberà in a recent paper about the district
Gardens in the centre of each street block; rich and poor accessing the same services; and smooth-flowing traffic were among his then revolutionary
even utopian-sounding ideas – many of which materialised to at least some extent (although not the central gardens)
Eixample remains a prominent part of Barcelona’s image today: the octagonal blocks
allowing drivers to see more easily what was happening to the left and right
Cars hadn’t even been invented yet – but when Cerdà discovered railways: “He realised there would be some sort of small machines moved by steam that each driver could stop in front of their house,” Permanyer explains
this design makes traffic circulation infinitely easier in Eixample
View image in fullscreenPlan of the Eixample development in Barcelona (1859)
Illustration: Archives of the Kingdom of Aragon
Barcelona/Ministerio de Cultura/Ministerio de CulturaAnd yet
none of these ideas were well-received or appreciated in Barcelona at the time
when the council originally opened a public competition for the extension plan in 1859
via the creation of a new ministry of public works (which suddenly ruled over city councils)
imposed Cerdà in a sign of historical – and future – tensions between Spain’s central and Catalan administrations
This would forever taint Cerdà’s legacy in the city
A well-travelled but little-known engineer when he began his career-defining project
he was immediately mistrusted by Barcelona’s architects
who were in the middle of a considerable rivalry with engineers
As it was impossible to oppose the rulings coming from Madrid
his opponents instead tried to discredit him ideologically and intellectually
Leading architects such as Domènech i Montaner (designer of the city’s celebrated Palau de la Música) and Josep Puig i Cadafalch slashed and patronised the streets’ excessive width
and the sameness of the “communist phalanstery-like squares”
“He has been nibbling at and turning all the gardens ..
and spaces destined to public buildings into the monotony of an American city
destined for a pretentious tribe without more aspirations than the agglomeration of houses to eat
property owners and architects alike wanted to build “the biggest
This is why there’s such a rich diversity in architecture in the district – one that matches the anarchist touch of the local bourgeoisie”
Cerdà had created a neighbourhood without class divisions where the population would be spread out equallyThis drive to be different is illustrated by an anecdote Salvador Dalí once told Permanyer. According to the artist, when asked how he wanted his house, a member of the bourgeoisie said: “I’m only asking for one thing: for it to be taller than my neighbour’s, so that I can piss on it!”
Cerdà’s plan, though, was a “liberation for everyone”, according to Permanyer. The engineer was a utopian socialist – and at the centre of his urbanism was a deep sense of equality and a populist ideology.
He had created a neighbourhood without class divisions where, both for ideological and public health reasons, the population would be spread out equally, and there wouldn’t be exclusive areas for the rich or poor. Over the following decades, Eixample grew with magnificent modernist buildings standing cheek by jowl with artisan homes demanding much cheaper rents.
Barely cited in any urbanism books not written in Spanish or Catalan to this day, Cerdà finally began attracting praise from his compatriots, and even internationally, in the 1980s and 90s, when Catalan architects started revising history and recognising him – something that became “official” when the city hosted the 1992 Olympics.
These days, Barcelona is consistently praised as an urban success story. And its fortunes are inextricably linked to Cerdà’s work, which propelled it, in the words of Permanyer, “from a provincial town where it was difficult to live, to a truly modern city”.
Does your city have a little-known story that made a major impact on its development? Please share it in the comments below or on Twitter using #storyofcities
What's the vibe?With a geometric exterior that's something between a Sudoku grid and a game of Tetris, Ohla Eixample's facade hints at the modern experience inside. Once you're checked in, complimentary glass of cava in hand, you can admire the trunk-like metal support beams, exposed industrial ceilings, and multi-colored lamps. More surprising, perhaps, are the tortoise sculptures, which dot the space, hide-and-seek style.
Give us the backstory on this place.Local architects Isern Associats were given a former 1970s office block (ugly) with weird ceiling heights (challenging), and an unfortunate proximity to the metro (noisy). Yet the final result is sleek, sculptural, and well soundproofed. You’ll find Ohla Eixample's sister property, Ohla Barcelona, on Via Laietana on the busier side of the Eixample district.
Tell us about your room.Our room was spacious and cement-heavy. Taller guests will love the Junior Suites, which have extra-large beds; Deluxe rooms have balconies; the Attic has a terrace. A bedside control panel has four lighting modes—Day, Relax, Night, and Off. The only divisive point could be the shower: It’s transparent and visible from the bed. Great for light; less great if you’re traveling with your mother.
How's the Wi-Fi?Free, and no complaints on quality.
How did you find the service?The staff is plentiful and multilingual.
Who stays here?An extremely international mix, with many saying hello to newly made friends over breakfast.
How's the neighborhood?Sandwiched between two great, partly pedestrianized streets: Rambla de Catalunya, perfect for shopping, and Enric Granados, perfect for eating.
Any standout features?The roof terrace, an urban garden complete with olive trees, has squishy, airbed-style loungers, a friendly cocktail bar, and a rare Barcelona win in the form of a year-round pool that’s heated in winter.
What's the bottom line?If you crave modern design—concrete floors, exposed ceilings, and the like—this is a strong option. If that leaves you cold, come for dinner at Xerta instead.
All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you book something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
the restaurant l’Olivé has been a fundamental pillar in the culinary offer of the Eixample
This restaurant has not only known how to survive
but has thrived in the changing demands of the gastronomic world
The history of l’Olivé is a blend of tradition
quality ingredients and exceptional service
after a careful renovation and a renewed focus on the dining experience
the restaurant is preparing to continue to lead the way in Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine
located on the corner of Balmes and Consell de Cent
has become a true symbol in the neighborhood
The essence of Catalan cuisine is felt in every dish
Every corner of the restaurant reflects its history
and the recent renovation has been a declaration of intent: they are here to stay and continue to offer a unique experience
The contemporary and cozy design of the place invites you to relax and enjoy a first-class dining experience
With a combination of classic and modern elements
l’Olivé has created the perfect ambiance for any occasion
from a romantic dinner to a celebration among friends
has taken l’Olivé’s cuisine to new heights
His approach is clear: to value the product and bring it to the table in the most honest way possible
the cod xatonada is a sublime appetizer that leaves diners wanting more
The combination of flavors is balanced and full of nuances
is another dish that stands out for its texture
This dish surprises even the most demanding and shows that each creation at l’Olivé is made with passion and dedication
As they progress through the culinary experience
diners cannot miss the iconic artichoke stuffed with ham and onion confit
but the perfect execution transforms a simple vegetable into a gastronomic gem
The main offer at l’Olivé does not disappoint
the octopus cannelloni with seasonal mushrooms and béchamel takes the cake
This dish is so creamy and flavorful that diners will probably remember it long after they have left the restaurant
making it one of those dishes that becomes legendary
The canned cod with samfaina is still a favorite
but the kid’s shoulder and the Donostia-style toad are the best sellers
Each bite is a journey through the flavors of Catalonia and culinary tradition
the restaurant l’Olivé has shown admirable resilience
especially considering that the environment has changed
Some customers are still reluctant to return to enclosed spaces
but the restaurant’s management approaches the situation with optimism
Olivé mentions that returning to business means facing the reality of a different clientele
Companies have opted for teleworking and tourism has decreased considerably
the effort to provide a safe and pleasant environment is a priority and it shows
One of the restaurant’s most successful decisions has been to renew its wine list
which includes both national and international options
A good meal is not complete without a wine to complement it
and l’Olivé has thought of everything
You can’t talk about a complete experience without mentioning desserts
The restyling in that section has also been remarkable
The millefeuille with strawberries and cream is a sweet that should not be missing at the end of any meal
The combination of textures and flavors transports diners to a state of happiness worth experiencing
l’Olivé restaurant has demonstrated that their love for cooking and customer service goes beyond words
passion and commitment to quality promise that
they will continue to offer the best of Catalan gastronomy
the restaurant l’Olivé not only keeps culinary tradition alive
but also adapts and presents it in a contemporary way
ensuring that there will always be reasons to return
Carrer de Balmes, 47, L’Eixample, 08007 Barcelona
Mission Statement: to assist the integration of foreign residents living in Spain
and this is never more accurate than when you establish yourself as a foreign resident in a new country
Being able to quickly familiarise yourself with the culture
and customs can help ease the transition during a challenging time
This is why Euro Weekly News makes it our mission to provide you with a free news resource in English that covers both regional and national Spanish news – anything that we feel you will benefit from knowing as you integrate into your new community and live your best life in Spain
you can forget about translating articles from Spanish into awkward English that probably don’t make much sense
Let us be your convenient and essential guide to all things that will likely affect you as a foreign resident living in Spain
Barcelona has dropped a boozy bombshell on fun-seekers: from June 1
pub crawls are strictly off the menu in the city’s famous Eixample district
also rules out any sort of advertising for organised drinking tours
This isn’t Barcelona’s first rodeo when it comes to cracking down on bar-hopping
Pub crawls have already been banned in the city’s old town – the Ciutat Vella district – since 2012
and that particular prohibition will remain in force until at least 2028
Eixample is joining the party (or not!) by rolling out its own two-year ban
signalling a strict “no gracias” to anyone hoping to take part in organised pint-fuelled prowls around the city’s iconic grid-like streets
City bosses say these late-night boozy jaunts are ‘incompatible with community harmony and the local residents’ right rest.’ In a mayoral decree
officials have promised to completely restrict pub crawls between 7 PM and 7 AM
citing concerns over public disturbances – especially in hotspots like the trendy Enric Granados area
where revellers have been known to cause a right old racket
They also warn of the ‘risk posed by irresponsible consumption of alcohol,’ with large numbers of tourists flocking to the city and piling into pubs and bars
The council insists this ban will keep Barcelona’s reputation sparkling and help safeguard local quality of life (not to mention a few eardrums)
there’s a 20-day public consultation period for any objections
Barcelona City Council is already taking a firm line: over 2023 and 2024
officials dished out a whopping 366 fines related to the sale and consumption of alcoholic beverages in Eixample
The council is ramping up efforts to curb underage drinking and ensure bars aren’t pouring pints outside authorised hours
So anyone who had their heart set on a boozy tour of Barcelona this summer
It seems the city’s message to rowdy revellers is simple: if you’re looking to hit the bars for a pub crawl
better brace yourself for a sobering surprise
Read more news from around Europe
Get more Spanish news in English
Subscribe to our Euro Weekly News alerts to get the latest stories into your inbox
Euro Weekly News is the leading English language newspaper in Spain
by delivering news with a social conscience
we are proud to be the voice for the expat communities who now call Spain home
With around half a million print readers a week and over 1.5 million web views per month
EWN has the biggest readership of any English language newspaper in Spain
The paper prints over 150 news stories a week with many hundreds more on the web – no one else even comes close
Our publication has won numerous awards over the last 25 years including Best Free Newspaper of the Year (Premios AEEPP)
Company of the Year (Costa del Sol Business Awards) and Collaboration with Foreigners honours (Mijas Town Hall)
All of this comes at ZERO cost to our readers
All our print and online content always has been and always will be FREE OF CHARGE
Download our media pack in either English or Spanish
Barcelona City Council plans to start work in June 2022 to include more greenery
new plazas and less asphalt in the Eixample “superilla”
The green axis model seeks to transform the streets of Consell de Cent
Comte Borrell and Girona into a green axis with pedestrian priority
The goal is for Barcelona to be ready to face the challenges of the 21st century and to become a better place to live every day
Construction is expected to be completed in the first quarter of 2023
The asphalt will be removed and materials such as granite and panot will be used to pave the area
the land will be permeable in order to take advantage of rainwater
making the streets 100% pedestrian accessible
green will occupy a prominent place in the work
vegetation in the Eixample district occupies only 1%
The road will be lined with 400 new trees and around 7,930 m2 of shrub and perennial species will be planted along the area
The crossing will be pedestrian and in the few circulation areas only vehicles traveling at a maximum speed of 10 km/h of residents in the area and emergency services will be allowed
31 new squares located at crossroads with transversal streets
There will be spaces for children’s games
Barcelona will offer several guided tours around traditional shops still standing in Esquerra de l'Eixample and Rambla de Catalunya boulevard
The city council has planned two different routes
one walking in front of historical establishments in La Rambla boulevard
The second route will focus on historical stores still standing in the l'Esquerra de l'Eixample neighborhood
and pharmacies Serralta and Antonio Torres
with a capacity of around 20 people per tour
Attendees will learn about traditional, unique, and special establishments with significant historic and heritage value. These are some of the many different traditional stores still standing in Barcelona's city center
Free tours will take place on Friday afternoons and Saturday mornings and will last around 1:30h. There will be two tours with sign language, and those interested must register on the District de l'Eixample website.
The Local Europe ABVästmannagatan 43113 25 StockholmSweden
Barcelona has paid the cost of its international popularity
pickpockets on its iconic Ramblas boulevard and a nightlife scene which keeps neighbours awake in some neighbourhoods
Barcelona banned pub crawls in the Old Town (Ciutat Vella) in 2012
a part of the Catalan capital which includes the touristy Gothic Quarter
Now a new rule will extend the ban on rutas alcohólicas or rutas de borrachera to the city's Eixample neighbourhood as well
Pub crawls are organised tours around bars and other nightlife venues where participants drink at each stop
and there's usually the promise of some free drinks along the way
They're usually aimed at tourists or groups of young people
The new measure will ban the organisation and promotion of pub crawl routes between bars and nightclubs in Eixample and the neighbourhood's public spaces for the next two years
Eixample extends up from Plaça de Catalunya and either side of Passeig de Gràcia
Dreta de l'Eixample and Esquerra de l’Eixample
The main problem with Barcelona's pub crawls is that they take place in central areas where local residents live
open squares and apartment blocks often with just single window panes (instead of double glazing) all mean sound can travel very easily
A group of loud youngsters on a pub crawl can often sound like they’re almost in your apartment
Barcelona City Council handed out more than 1,100 fines to those promoting pub crawl in these central neighbourhoods
But despite the ongoing ban and stiff fines
these types of tours have still been taking place in the Old Town
local news site El Periódico reported that they discovered advertisements for a “whirlwind tour of Barcelona’s hottest spots
where the atmosphere is electric and the drinks are flowing”
And after a quick Google search for 'Barcelona pub crawls'
The Local Spain found several of them still being advertised on booking sites such as Viator and Get Your Guide
many around the Ciutat Vella neighbourhoods like the Gothic Quarter
There are even several websites specifically dedicated to pub crawls in Barcelona
Some of them say that they stay within “central area of the city” and one states that the meeting spot is in a “bar just off La Rambla” which again is smack in the middle of the Ciutat Vella area where they’re supposedly banned
Barcelona extended the Old Town pub crawl ban until 2028 and the new Eixample ban will last until the same year
although it’s likely both will be extended further
Eixample has also intensified controls on the sale and consumption of alcohol in public places
366 fines related to infractions of this type were issued in the Eixample neighbourhood
If you’re considering booking a pub crawl in Barcelona
it’s important to realise that it may be illegal and that by going on one you’re contributing to the issues of mass tourism that so many locals in Barcelona have been protesting about for years
There are plenty of local bars to visit on your own without having to go on an organised tour and disturbing the locals
It’s important to also be aware of noise levels and perhaps choose clubs away from the centre such as Razzmatazz
Please log in here to leave a comment
a new restaurant has opened its doors and promises to ignite the most demanding palates
Darvaza is not just a place to eat; it is a gastronomic experience that transforms the way diners think about the embers
This restaurant goes beyond the simple grill and offers an international tour of the flavors that fire can present
From exotic cuts to traditional-style rice dishes
each dish is designed to take the breath away from those who sit at the table
everything is cooked to perfection and surrounded by an ambiance that does justice to its name
inspired by the famous “Darvaza Well” in Turkmenistan
also known as “The Gateway to Hell”
Once diners walk through Darvaza’s door
they are greeted by a warm and welcoming atmosphere
The décor evokes the feeling of being near the fire
This atmosphere is complemented by exceptional customer service
making each person feel special and valued
The open kitchen showcases the magic behind each dish
the restaurant specializes in offering matured meats of the highest quality
as well as fish and rice dishes that promise delicacies for all tastes
you can see how the chefs transform these ingredients into culinary masterpieces
Darvaza’s menu stands out for its variety of meat cuts
which come from different corners of the planet
From Argentinean entraña to the famous Japanese Wagyu
the restaurant meets the expectations of every meat lover
The best thing is that you can order specific quantities: feel like tasting only 100 grams of a tasty entraña
Feel like sharing a kilo of Argentinian lomo alto
diners can enjoy dishes that are ideal for eating with your hands
such as the Black Angus rib eye served on freshly baked bread
This style of serving food creates a warm and social atmosphere
where sharing is part of the pleasure of eating
Darvaza offers a selection of rice dishes that highlight the Mediterranean tradition
these rices are a true sin and reflect the chef’s passion for authenticity
each bite becomes an experience that transports diners to the coast
The fish are also protagonists in this feast
Each dish highlights the flavors of the sea
complemented by high quality ingredients that enhance the freshness of the fish
the experience at Darvaza does not end with the savory
adds a touch of intensity that contrasts beautifully with the more common cream cheese desserts
Its creamy texture and strong flavor provide a perfect closure to any meal
We cannot forget to mention the magnificent offer in cocktails that Darvaza offers
Using fresh ingredients and innovative techniques
the restaurant’s bartenders create drinks that perfectly complement the flavors of the menu
capturing diners’ attention even before the first sip takes place
the restaurant transforms into a place full of energy
The music plays and the atmosphere heats up
thanks to the presence of a DJ who adds vibrant beats to the experience
cocktails and ambiance makes Darvaza not just a place to dine
but a meeting point where people want to be
It is a culinary destination that invites diners to discover unique flavors that emanate from the fire
and every detail of the ambiance has been carefully crafted to guarantee a great experience
if you want to surprise your senses and know every corner of the world through the embers
do not hesitate to make your reservation at Darvaza
We promise it will be a trip you won’t forget
Carrer de Mallorca, 209, L’Eixample, 08036 Barcelona
The Barcelona City Council presented a special plan for uses that seeks
to restrict and regulate the opening of new restaurants
food stores and other activities in the Eixample district
The objective is to avoid the concentration of these establishments on pedestrian streets
The municipal government stated that the measure seeks to “preserve local commerce and avoid gentrification” in the district
the aim is to apply the Girona Street model
Everything is aimed at avoiding the concentration and excess of commercial premises at the same point
the new plan for Eixample uses stipulates density and distance requirements between premises
Also minimum and maximum areas for restaurants
The presentation of the document marked the beginning of a two-month participatory process
The aim is to gather the opinions of the neighborhood
entities and political groups before approving the final plan
the new plan will only allow the operation of a maximum of five premises within a radius of 50 meters
as well as a maximum of 18 premises within a radius of 100 meters
Audiovisual and musical activities may only take place on streets wider than 25 meters
Already a member? Log in
Not a member? Sign up
Explore our Food Tours →
This is how Adrián Rubio – originally from Aragón province
where he studied cooking – ended up in Barcelona
Perhaps it was the strong wind known as cierzo
which blows from the Pyrenees and down through his native land to the southwest
that carried him here to open a restaurant where the recipes change every day
A chef has to be tough and creative enough to face such a powerful force
and he decided to name his new personal project
Cierzo is a small two-story restaurant in the Dreta de l’Eixample neighborhood
with just a few tables managed by Adrián’s good friend
“Javier was recommended by a friend when I needed a waiter
and now he is like part of the family,” says Adrián
The area around the restaurant is full of offices and shops with hundreds of workers who are spoiled for choice when it comes to their daily lunches
But among the well-organized crowd of eateries in L’Eixample
Cierzo has made a name for itself as a reliable option
drawing a crowd of regulars that drop by week after week
they can find a simple but delicious menú del día for just 14 euros
The regulars who come in pairs know what to do: they just sit and order one of each
After a different project that didn’t work out as he expected
The original idea was for a bar with a counter serving street food
another sudden gust of wind took this space away and brought the unexpected opportunity that today is Cierzo
Adrián flipped his vision into a more gastronomic concept dedicated to the main clientele in the area: the neighbors and local office workers
which meant he needed to serve meals with both high quality and accessible prices
“Eating [out for lunch] shouldn’t be boring or lame,” he says
mixing local Mediterranean market cuisine with Asian or South American touches
He plays around with any and all possibilities to build the four new dishes for the daily lunch specials
but traditional Italian recipes are an especially important source of inspiration at Cierzo
especially when it comes to exploring vegetables the infinite variations of pastas and gnocchi
Here we’ve enjoyed tasty cannelloni and the fantastic lasagnas with meat
Winter is a time for more local recipes like Aragonese or Catalan soups and stews
The second courses typically feature one fish and one meat dish
When we see Javier pass by our table with a magnificent roasted Iberian pork sirloin with mashed potato parmentier and crispy leeks
But we’re reassured when we’re presented with our freshly grilled corvina
a juicy and tender white fish served with a crunchy layer of breadcrumbs on top and covered in roasted garlic sauce
I never repeated one single dish!” Adrián explains
“I go with the seasons and throughout the day the I get ideas for the next menu.” It makes us wonder how he keeps track of this incredible number of creations
And I don’t have time to take notes or even take photos of everything.” The suppliers announce the products available each day and Adrián selects what makes the most sense to produce something different
within the restraints of the season and the menu costs
“Now things are different; if something becomes a big success I try to include it [in the menu] again every fifteen days,” he explains
Some of these successful dishes makes their way onto the menu for dinner
an event that only takes place on Thursday and Friday nights
Dinner at Cierzo is a fun selection of around twenty high quality dishes to choose and share
which hang around for a bit longer on the menu than the fleeting lunch specials
concentrating all the attention on just a few tables downstairs
The tomato tartar is one of the favorites among the nighttime customers: a juicy
“meaty” vegetarian tartar of preserved tomato with avocado
covered with black olive paste and a sun-dried tomato sauce
making the flavor change from intense at the top to fresher and creamier on the base levels
It’s impossible not to be curious about what’s going to happen next week at Cierzo; which new ideas will appear scrawled on the blackboard
Come Monday through Friday to get a taste of Adrián’s latest creations
loading map - please wait...Map could not be loaded - please enable Javascript!→ more information
Urban Planning and Mobility Area is responsible for providing municipal services linked to the public areas and city services which make life easier for people who live and work in the city.
The City Council seeks to ensure a quality public space
a green and biodiverse city that is productive and resilient
a city committed to active and sustainable mobility with public involvement and commitment
Urban Planning and Mobility Area has different instruments as well as advisory and participatory bodies for effective involvement and collaboration in municipal projects with the general public
The Council sees to the smooth running of the city services
to ensure the daily wellbeing of the public and contribute towards the city's development
and the director of the Association of Civil Engineers of Catalonia
unveiled a commemorative plaque for the engineer and urban planner Ildefons Cerdà at the building where he lived
Also attending were the journalists Carles Cols (‘El Periódico’) and Lluís Permanyer (‘La Vanguardia’)
who were behind the search to locate the home
The ceremony was conducted by the Eixample District council member Marta Sendra
The tribute emphasised the life and career of the outstanding engineer and urban planner
renowned for his contribution to the urban development of L’Eixample and Barcelona
The journalists Carles Cols (El Periódico) and Lluís Permanyer (La Vanguardia) gave an explanation of Cerdà’s trajectory and the studies carried out to determine where he lived
The director of the Association of Civil Engineers of Catalonia
provided information on the role of Cerdà in the history of urban planning
The Mayor noted that Ildefons Cerdà dreamt of an open and healthy Barcelona that helped to improve the quality of life of its inhabitants
Vegetables often get short shrift at restaurants – greens
legumes and tubers are relegated to the same tired side dishes
or just one component of many in a generic main
Not so at GatBlau (literally BlueCat in Catalan)
a kohlrabi or any other delicious weirdo from the garden is taken to the next level
after working in several Catalan restaurants that favored a more conventional and traditional cooking style
felt that his professional life was going in the wrong direction
and the next morning you’d have any ingredient you want in the restaurant
the season or where it comes from,” he explains
This was in stark contrast to his personal food consumption – every Wednesday he was buying a box of seasonal organic vegetables from a cooperative
Barcelona was home to only a few restaurants that specialized in vegetarian or organic cuisine
“Nobody thought that a good top restaurant should also be conscious with their products,” says Pere
“So I thought that this connection would be basically impossible.”
They serve up almost exclusively organic products – not just vegetables but also meat and fish
a few words from the most unexpected person can change the course of one’s life
That’s what happened to Pere: “The first person who opened my eyes was Pep Montserrat
when nobody was really talking about Km0 [a Slow Food designation for food that has been locally grown and produced]
‘What you have to do is a restaurant fed only with products from 50 km around.’ I told him
Yet Pere started to research and almost immediately discovered (and joined) the Slow Food movement in Barcelona
open GatBlau in line with the sustainable philosophy they share
very close to the intersection of Gran Via and Urgell – an area that combines residential and business life
with its natural colors and easygoing atmosphere
they serve up almost exclusively organic products – not just vegetables but also meat and fish
into a higher gastronomic concept: creating dishes that spotlight one seasonal vegetable in all its unique glory
supported by a cast of other vegetables and products
They landed on an ever-changing menu of 16 dishes
half of which are completely vegetarian while the other half feature veggies mixed with dairy
Lunchtime is always busy for restaurants in Barcelona
but that’s especially true for those located in commercial areas like the Eixample
GatBlau’s “Eco2” lunch (ecologic and economic
priced around €14) has been so successful over the past few years that they also began offering a complementary “Gastronomic” menu that has more sophisticated and creative dishes for bit more money
The cuisine at GatBlau is strongly rooted in the Catalan and Mediterranean traditions
Some of their creations mix land and sea vegetables
including a green hummus made of chickpeas and algae
and fresh Ganxet beans with mushrooms and algae from Portomuiños in Galicia
Sometimes they get creative with traditional meat dishes
like their fennel fricandó (originally a stew of thin beef fillets with St
George’s mushrooms) and parsnip rillettes with Marcona almonds
where the grated parsnip is confited in Marcona almond oil and then torn apart to create the same texture of the meat in a rilletes
we loved their creamy and luscious gnocchi made of sweet potato and served with aromatic rossinyols (Cantharellus cibarius
a mushroom that is very common in Catalonia) and a chestnut pesto that gets its zing from a subtle touch of garlic
The dish is crowned with a few thin shavings of Gran Reixagó cheese (made from artisan Catalan raw cow’s milk and aged for 24 months)
A similarly powerful dish is their flavorful squash escalivada (Catalan for roasted and peeled)
served with barbecue sauce and caramelized squash seeds
which give a crispy touch to balance the creamy texture of the squash
gaining new importance on our tables and in our restaurants
Pere Carrion and Jo Mestres are giving shape and color to this new gastronomic world full of delightful vegetable characters
This stylish speakeasy is hidden away behind the cover of a trendy Pastrami Bar in the heart of El Born
Simply give a knowing look to the person behind the counter and they’ll let you in through to the back when the time is right
If you want to experience one of the best views of the city then the Carmel Bunkers are the place to head
Located on the foothills which surround the city
these former wartime bunkers are now a popular hang-out with those looking to escape the busy city-center and admire the impressive 360º view
Once the sun goes down the Antic Theatre will be bustling | © Michael & Tara Castillo
Located just a minute’s walk from the famous Palau de la Música, the Antic Theatre is an urban oasis which has managed to keep a low profile
The theatre boasts a large open-air terrace surrounded by stunning old buildings typical of Barcelona’s Old Town
The Can Deu Civic Centre is housed inside a stunning Modernist building located in the heart of the Les Corts neighborhood that is rarely visited by tourists
The cafeteria there is a hidden-gem which few in the city know about
with a large outdoor terrace and stylish interiors serving a selection of drinks and small dishes at affordable prices
Carved into the side of Montjuïc hill, the amphitheatre in the Grec Gardens was constructed in the 1920s for the Barcelona International Exposition
Today the theatre is used each year in July for the Grec Festival
but the rest of the year the gardens and theatre are open to the public
and make for a great place to read a book or have a picnic
Sign up to our newsletter to save up to $800 on our unique trips
See privacy policy
El Jardí Bar Historic courtyard of El Jardin | Michael & Tara Castillo / © Culture Trip
Just a minute’s walk from La Rambla
this cute outdoor café and restaurant is a surprisingly well-kept secret
Housed within the inside courtyard of ancient university buildings and surrounded by orange trees
El Jardí is an oasis of peace in an otherwise hectic part of town
The Horta Labyrinth | Unsplash | Alina Stiba
Ever wanted to lose yourself in a real-life labyrinth like the ones you used to read about when you were little? Well so did the Marquis Joan Antoni Desvalls of d’Ardena, who ordered the construction of this 820-yard long labyrinth located on the outskirts of Barcelona back in the 18th century
Only 750 visitors are allowed in daily and access costs just over €2 per person
Walking around this part of Poblenou you could easily think there wasn’t much going on at first glance
Housed inside the Valkiria co-working space
which serves a selection of fresh dishes and drinks in a cool
which promotes networking and creative thinking
While many of Montjuïc’s gardens are famous for their sumptuous flower displays and bourgeois gardens
the Jardins de Mossèn Costa i Llobrera are home to some of the hardiest and most unusual varieties of plant
this little-known garden is home to hundreds of species of cactus
Fancy swimming in the open seas but without risking coming head-to-head with a jet-ski or ending up caught in the waves
The Zona de Banys del Fòrum is the city’s premier open-water swimming pool
combining the benefits of sea-water with the ease and safety of swimming lanes
Once upon a time, it was the law that all restaurants in Spain needed to offer an affordable lunchtime menu so that workers could get a decent meal. Today, while no longer a law, many restaurants continue to serve a menu del día or menu of the day
which usually consists of three courses and a drink for as little as €8
this is an excellent way to experience some authentic cuisine and rub shoulders with the locals
| Jr Harris / Unsplash
You’ll get some splendid panoramic views along the way and see a greener side to the city
which is a favourite amongst locals for enjoying a vermouth during Sunday lunchtimes
Watch an FC Barcelona match in the bar The Camp Nou may be Europe’s largest football stadium, but it struggles to attract locals and has a reputation for a hit-and-miss atmosphere. If you want to see where the FC Barcelona supporters choose to cheer on their team
head to a local bar instead and join in the shouting
hugging and – if you’re lucky – celebrations
follow the crowds to the Canaletes Fountain on La Rambla
which has been the supporters’ gathering point after a victory for decades
or rather they have some breakfast early in the morning when they get up and then tend to have a mid-morning snack around 11 am to keep them going until lunchtime at 2 pm
this is usually a moment to grab a coffee with a colleague and have a break from work
and cheese or jamón sandwiches appear fresh on the counter
Act like a local and soak up the atmosphere of this Mediterranean way of life
About the author Tara Jessop Tara is a travel writer and editor who lived in Barcelona for 5 years writing exclusively for Culture Trip
She has a passion for sharing experiences around food and wine
See & Do Top Things to Do Around Las Ramblas
See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in October
Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in November
Guides & Tips How to Attend a Bullfight in Spain
Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in December
Guides & Tips How to Spend the Perfect 24 Hours in Santander
See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Summer
Architecture Spain’s Most Impressive Bullrings
See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Autumn
See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in September
See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in July
Food & Drink The 5 Best Food Markets in Madrid
US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000
tripssupport@theculturetrip.com
© Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd
The closure was carried out in a block interior of the Sant Antoni neighborhood
due to the need to apply treatment to eliminate the presence of rats in the place
the Barcelona City Council through the Public Health Agency of Barcelona
The Jardins dels Tres Tombs is an island interior of the Sant Antoni neighborhood
Located between the streets Calàbria where the only access is
the presence of rodents in the children’s area was immediately detected and the park was closed with metal fences to prevent people from passing through
along with the distribution of several mousetraps throughout the area to trap the rats
a sign was installed next to the children’s slide informing about the sanitation tasks and activities being carried out in the area
citizens in Barcelona have expressed their indignation at the presence of pests such as mosquitoes
cockroaches and mice in the streets and buildings
It is usual for these pests to increase during the summer
recently in Barcelona there have been several episodes of rat concentration in different areas of the city
which was recorded on video and became known on social networks at the end of June
began to take the necessary measures together with the City Council as a result of the increase in pests during the summer
75% of incidents in the city can be recorded for this reason
studies indicate that the city’s sewage system has a rat population of approximately 259,000 rats
a plague of rats was also detected next to a kindergarten in an abandoned lot in Jaén street
a figure that increased compared to last year’s 6,133 outbreaks
According to the Catalan Association of Environmental Health Companies of Catalonia (ADEPAP)
the confinement caused by the pandemic has encouraged rodents to move closer and closer to the populated areas of the city
eat waste thrown on the streets or wander through parks and squares such as the one in Catalunya
As the food scene in Barcelona continues to change at a rapid clip
with a constant stream of closings and openings
the city’s bodegas are an excellent example of what can be saved
These are businesses that have been updated again and again
in order to preserve an essence and an identity that nobody – not now nor back then – wants to lose
a tapas bar and bulk-wine shop on Carrer d’Enric Granados in the Eixample Esquerra (Left Eixample) neighborhood
is a good example of this preservation model
the bodega has survived just about everything
and served as an important gathering place for its customers over the years – so much so that one of its previous names
Franxa Tomás and Carmen Fernández bought the place from its former proprietor
it was still purely a bulk-wine shop – local residents would come in to buy vino by the liter from large barrels
Franxa and Carmen fell in love with La Moderna at first sight and wanted to preserve the essence and identity of an iconic Spanish bodega: a simple and casual place where friends and neighbors can gather
cheaper and more casual than the old Catalan casinos de poble.”
the bodega offers the best environment for socializing
cheaper and more casual than the old Catalan casinos de poble [village casinos],” says Ingrid Pérez
a friend of the owners who also helps out at the bodega
The casinos she’s speaking of are not typical gambling casinos
but rather large old-school cafeterias that were often found in village centers
chess or dominos and have a coffee or a vermut
often a combination of a wine bar and a convenience store
where people could talk and drink in smaller groups
Given their love of traditional bodegas and the fact that they both have backgrounds in the restaurant industry (in addition to his advertising job
Franxa has worked on other restaurant projects
and Carmen’s family owns a traditional Catalan restaurant in Barcelona)
it’s no surprise that the only truly new thing at La Moderna is the food
They kept the whole front of the bodega intact
bottled bulk wine to take away and old pictures and photos
And while they transformed the former owners’ residence in the back of the building into a homey dining room
paintings and lamps still give it the feel of an old house
you will find an enticing display of the high-quality food products that the bodega serves
like the excellent Casa Santoña conservas (gourmet canned seafood)
thick white stalks grown and canned in Navarre
There’s also a small kitchen where they prepare the simpler plates and tapas on the menu
while the more elaborate dishes are made in advance at Carmen’s family’s restaurant
This includes their delicious ox tail casserole
their special snails la Moderna (similar to snails a la llauna
they are cooked with rosemary or oregano over a charcoal grill in an aluminum can and served with a side of allioli) and the callos (a traditional and very iconic tripe stew)
Some of our favorite dishes here are the incredibly tasty smoked oysters and sardines over pan de cristal
Their menu also includes a selection of cured Iberian and Catalan sausages
a diverse range of Spanish cheeses as well as the aromatic Swiss Tête de moine
there are some Mediterranean salads featuring such ingredients as lentils
don’t forget to indulge in the artisan bread that’s always a fixture on the table
the Catalan cream or their comforting chocolate mousse
The drink options here range from local beer and house vermut to cocktails and a selection of around 15 Catalan and Spanish bottled wines
in addition to the bulk wine in the barrels
Preservation runs deep in Barcelona’s bodegas
Not only are many of the products on offer preserved in some way
but bodegas themselves also preserve an important part of the city’s cultural identity
The immense pleasure of a casual drink and a bite to eat in a simple
The property has a built area of 1,487 square metres, six floors and two commercial units. The total investment will amount to €8.7 million, including the cost of the necessary renovations.
The operation is part of a strategy to increase Barcelona’s public housing stock and eliminate tourist apartments from the city, thus raising the number of homes available. In this case, the right of first refusal and setting aside will allow the acquisition of new housing units in a densely populated area where new construction is difficult.
Jardins d’Enriqueta Sèculi, in the Sagrada Família neighbourhood.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
The yard of the old Ernst Paul Lehmann toy factory, a building that now houses some 20 studios for different creative disciplines, in Esquerra de l’Eixample.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
From the Jardins d’Enriqueta Sèculi you can enjoy an impressive view of the Sagrada Família. The City Council has opted to name the new gardens after women, to make up for their scarcity in street names, especially in the Eixample. Enriqueta Sèculi (1897-1976) was an educationalist, writer and feminist activist and co-founder of various women’s organisations in the years before the Spanish Civil War.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
The President of the Dreta de l’Eixample residents’ association, Jaume Artigas, is in no doubt. ‘From the start of the crisis in 2012 until now, no new premises have been inaugurated in the neighbourhood. Inner courtyards were recovered by buying premises and not by expropriation, which cost the same as buying. Now the facts are starker: there aren’t enough funds. There’s no town-planning management because prices are too high.’
At Barcelona City Council they do not give much importance to the numbers: ‘What we want are free green spaces, we don’t care whether they’re block interiors or not. When all’s said and done, we prefer to count everything: our aim is to have about 50 accessible spaces and a hundred green spaces’, explains Elisenda Capera.
The entrance to the Lehmann factory.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
Access to gardens of Anaïs Napoleon, in the Fort Pienc neighbourhood.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
Entrance to Torre de les Aigües, in Dreta de l’Eixample.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
As part of plans for city block interiors, there are currently several operations under way to recover new ones. The first garden planned for inauguration at the beginning of 2019 is the one at Casa Macaya (191, Carrer de Roger de Flor). At the moment, there is a small play area, but the City Council wants to recover the whole of the city block interior and manage it as a green zone. The demolition work will be starting soon.
All these projects are opportunities arising from private initiative which the administration has taken advantage of. It is therefore difficult to establish a recovery plan, as the Council depends on proposals coming from outside. As it is impossible to plan the gardens to be built, it means that projects like the ‘superblocks’, in which city block interiors could be used to connect the various blocks with pedestrian circuits, are difficult to put into practice.
At the Esquerra de l’Eixample residents association, the interior gardens there are much appreciated, though they admit that if they have narrow entrances they are afraid to go in. ‘I don’t like going in, because I always imagine there’ll be someone there who might hurt me’, confesses Madrona Comas, a member of the association.
The space dedicated to the memory of the soprano Montserrat Figueras (1942-2011), a specialist in early music, in Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample, is one of the latest to enter the municipal street guide.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
The route through the city block interiors begins with the city’s newest gardens, the Jardins de Montserrat Figueras in the Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample, inaugurated in June 2016. A narrow passageway, the entrance and exit, leads us away from the traffic in Carrer de Còrsega and into an oasis. Full of trees and plants climbing up the walls, between the paths and around the areas for rest or play, the feeling of being in a small isolated space is stronger than ever.
Elisenda Capera points out the contradictions in the prohibitions. ‘City block interiors echo. I can understand the nuisance when people are trying to sleep and that’s why they’re closed at night. But they’re children, they run and shout. It’s not that this interior has more problems than others, it’s that some residents are over-sensitive’, she concludes.
The gardens dedicated to the famous popular singer Càndida Pérez (Olot, 1893-1989), in the Sant Antoni neighbourhood.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
These gardens do not include any facilities, unlike other places that coexist with a range of services. This is the case of the gardens named after the popular singer and composer Càndida Pérez (44-46, Carrer del Comte Borrell), in Sant Antoni, which shares the space with a library and an old people’s centre. Entrance is by a wide passageway with a high ceiling which leads to the busy, five-storey Sant Antoni-Joan Oliver library.
All is quiet in the garden. It is half past seven and the only people there are an old couple with their granddaughter and two girls sitting on a bench. ‘We don’t often come to the garden, but it’s such a nice day we took advantage to do some work’, comments Helena, pointing to the computer on Marien’s lap. ‘I often come to the library for its comic section’, she confesses, as she glances at the letter of presentation she is getting ready to send to a business.
A chimney stands out in the space, a memory of the sweet factory that used to occupy the courtyard. Although there are some trees, the garden is dominated by the ochre of the sand and the black of the iron on the walls, except for one corner full of climbing plants, a way of avoiding graffiti on the walls. Núria and her friends set off for home. A little while later the rest of the attendants at the Saint George’s Day dance follow them, crossing the courtyard with excited smiles.
To end my tour, I visit the Jardins de la Torre de les Aigües (56, Carrer de Roger Llúria), which in summer become a swimming pool known as the ‘Eixample beach’. It is still spring and halfway through the morning the place is taken up with tourists, mothers and babies and workers resting. The many trees distributed around the courtyard provide shade and a feeling of isolation.
The Jardins (gardens) de la Torre de les Aigües, in Dreta de l’Eixample, include a pool that is very popular in summer, known as the ‘Eixample beach’.Foto: Vicente Zambrano
‘I work very near here and I come every morning to switch off during my work break’, explains Andros, with a cigarette in one hand and in the other half a sandwich wrapped in silver paper. ‘It’s quiet today. Normally, the secondary students from the school come at breaktime and the courtyard fills up’.
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *
Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.
The first kiosks were built in Barcelona in the mid-19th century, either to sell products or shelter musical performances. However, the first newspaper kiosk was the initiative of an evening paper born in 1888: El Noticiero Universal. From La Rambla, newspaper kiosks spread throughout the city.
The last few years haven’t been kind to sellers of printed press. Over the course of a decade, 35% of kiosks in Barcelona have closed. The recession –and, above all, new ways of getting information– are causing many to shut down. Aware of the problem, the sector and the administration are taking on a necessary reconversion.
Climate change and air pollution have driven the world’s great cities towards a change in paradigm. After a century of cars ruling the streets, the largest metropolises are starting to restrict their use.
Officially, science was a man’s affair in Barcelona until very recently. This can be seen, for example, in the gallery of names of illustrious academics in the Paranimf of the University of Barcelona, which only includes one woman: 17th-century philosopher Juliana Morell. However, if we look under the surface, we find that women have in fact been involved in the scientific and technical life of the city in many different ways.
From the 70´s, the historical establishments – neighbourhood cinemas and other, classier, first - run downtown cinemas – came up time and again against the challenge of survival. Throughout this struggle, and over and above the overpowering creeping commercialism, alternative circuits have been established that have allowed new experiences for cinema-lovers while preserving the best of the traditional ones.
In Catalonia, 7% of all food purchased by families, restaurants and shops each year is wasted. Food waste is a global problem which can be fought by means of better laws and social projects, in addition to individual and household initiatives.
The Model prison has since been emptied of its prisoners. Now, for the residents in this part of the city, it represents both an opportunity and a danger, as they watch to see what sort of restoration will be given to this large chunk of their neighbourhood, following four decades of calls for the prison’s closure in order to make way for amenities, green spaces and schools.
Since the appearance of the first graffiti in the mid-1980s, Barcelona has had a rather tempestuous relationship with this new form of artistic expression in its public space. There are three main characters in this story: the artists, the authorities and the public. In the following pages we will analyse how their relationship has evolved over the last three decades.
The Ecology, Urban Planning and Mobility Area is responsible for providing municipal services linked to the public areas and city services which make life easier for people who live and work in the city.
The City Council seeks to ensure a quality public space, a green and biodiverse city that is productive and resilient, a city committed to active and sustainable mobility with public involvement and commitment.
Ecology, Urban Planning and Mobility Area has different instruments as well as advisory and participatory bodies for effective involvement and collaboration in municipal projects with the general public, groups and organizations, and both public and private entities.
The Council sees to the smooth running of the city services, to ensure the daily wellbeing of the public and contribute towards the city's development.
Following an in-depth analysis on the way the green streets are working in the district, an improvement plan will now be implemented as a result of joint work between 18 local organisations and all other municipal stakeholders. The goal is to consolidate the project and make the amendments needed to improve public space, mobility, environmental quality and socio-economic dynamics.
The new streets entailed a different rollout of some services, bringing new maintenance models with them. A number of measures have now been planned to gradually improve the system through until next summer. In the case of services to maintain greenery, the cost has risen by 315,000 euros, and with cleaning, by 759,000 euros.
Extra signage will also be installed at junctions from between now and October, to make obligatory runs clearer and avoid vehicles using spaces reserved for pedestrians at these points. Clearer delimitation of loading and unloading areas is also being looked at.
Damaged parts of parterres of more than 20m² will be replaced and protected by the fencing used in Sant Antoni, shielding vegetation from dogs, pedestrians and vehicles. The work will be carried out progressively from 2024 to 2026 at an overall cost of 2 million euros.
The analysis of the cleaning service concludes that it is well dimensioned, but that an additional five litter bins are needed in the meeting spaces in green streets, taking into account the distance to benches and tables to avoid smells.
The implementation of the Usage Plan for the district is constantly being assessed as although the activities it regulates have not increased, there have been many permit transfers that included changes in their formal characteristics. In parallel, different inspection campaigns are also being carried out: one focusing on permits for minor works, another one specific to terraces and another soon in conjunction with the IMPUQV to review the façades of premises.
while lawyer María José Tarancón outlines the position of the building's new owners
Housing rights activists Daniela Lima of the Esquerra de l'Eixample Housing Network and Enric Aragonès of the Sindicat de Llogateres tenants' union give their take
Presented by Lorcan Doherty with Gerard Escaich Folch and Cristina Tomàs White
This week's Catalan phrase is 'posar la mà al foc'
it is used when you are very sure of something you say
Get in touch with the podcast team: fillingthesink@acn.cat
Listen to more episodes of Filling the Sink below or find out more here.
Children joining the bicibús in the Eixample district of Barcelona
make their way to school on a recent Friday morning
The community is hoping to build a school-friendly bike lane for a safer commute for kids
The Friday commute to school looks a little different for some kids in Barcelona
more than a hundred kids and parents hop on their bikes and hit the road on their way to school and work
Dozens of children ride bikes and scooters — and even skate — down empty streets, seen in videos and photos posted to social media
Something special is happening in Barcelona. It started last month when some parents organized a bike ride to school for just five kids. Now entire neighborhoods are joining. They call it Bicibús – or Bike Bus. pic.twitter.com/qIxsQEervG
and began in the Eixample district of Barcelona in September
Families in the area are using the growing popularity of the bike commute to build community — and also fight for a safer
more environmentally friendly way for their kids to get to school
"It all started with a group of five families
a lot of determination and a deep sense of the greater good," Mireia Boix
a parent who rides with her 5-year-old son
The bicibús operates similar to the way a school bus would but with three "stops" along the way where more riders join as it travels to several schools in the Eixample
Parents often join in, some of them carrying younger children on their bikes. Police vehicles have started to escort the group
In Eixample, the bicibús travels down Entença Street, where three schools are located; the ride from start to finish lasts about 25 minutes. Boix said it's a busy road where about 20,000 vehicles drive through every day
It makes the surrounding area loud and busy
she feels a sense of relief when her son bikes to school on Fridays because she knows he'll be safe
That's why parents in the community are hoping for a school-friendly bike lane that is separated from the main traffic that would allow children to bike with their families
This kind of lane already exists in other parts of Barcelona
Boix says the city council has made some changes to make the street safer
A police vehicle travels at the front of the bicibús in the Eixample district in Barcelona
When the cyclists start their commute on Friday mornings
they have help from local officials to keep everyone safe
"It would reduce the amount of cars and it would make bike riding a possibility for families that right now are not too sure and feel insecure with the area," she said
"Bicycles are a means of transportation and if a 5-year-old can ride a bike to school it means that every one else could
quieter and overall better city to live in," Boix said
Other neighborhoods in Barcelona and other parts of Spain have similar bicibus traditions
Boix said she finds herself waking up earlier than usual every Friday out of excitement for the ride
She and her son ride their bikes to school in the morning most days
The joy, even just watching videos on social media, is infectious. Bystanders stop and take pictures of the group. Some of the children even sport bicibús jerseys. Some on social media have commented on how the bicibús shows what it means to rethink public space
Boix said the camaraderie and companionship that have come with organizing and taking part in the rides becomes a little emotional
"We have all felt emotional in one of the rides at some point
It is a group of people convinced that things can be done a bit differently," she said
"That we are not asking for something strange or impossible."
Become an NPR sponsor
Entrepanes Díaz opened last February with the goal of giving the sandwich the respect it deserves
kokotxas al pil-pil (lower part of the cod chin cooked in parsley and garlic) and Antxón (red pork sausage and poached egg)
Despite the sandwich being the main theme of this bar
Díaz hasn’t neglected to include a wide range of equally delicious offerings on the menu
Among the tapas (€3 to €15) are classics such as croquetas
callos (pork tripe cooked with chorizo and paprika) and patatas bravas
as well as more Andalusian ones: ortiguillas (deep-fried anemones)
cazón en adobo (marinated school shark) and tortitas de camarón (deep-fried shrimp pancakes)
Brunch (€9 to €10) at Entrepanes Díaz means eggs: eggs Benedict
Among the daily specials (€12) there are always meat
Desserts are as delicious as the rest of the menu: Amaretto ice cream
crema catalana and chocolate marquise are the highlights
Drinks include caña (a small glass of draft beer)
Antxón Gómez
was charged with overseeing Entrepanes Díaz’s interior design
Stepping into this bar is like taking a journey back to a 1950s Madrilenian bar: Black-and-white photos
mirrors and blackboards fill up this little corner joint
offer impeccable service and lively conversation to regulars and newcomers
Since Entrepanes Díaz is right on the intersection of financial Diagonal Avenue and the trendy Gràcia neighborhood
businesspeople and the thirty-something hipster crowd congregate here throughout the day
Martín Berasategui’s embassy at the Monument hotel has become one of the essential restaurants not only in the city but in all of Catalonia and Spain
where people flock to marvel at the chef's creativity
The sampling menu is a treat that everyone should have the chance to enjoy
Such excellence has earned the Lasarte the top prize in the restaurant world
and as of November 2016 the restaurant is the first in Barcelona to boast three Michelin stars
the man responsible for the day-to-day operations is Italian chef Paolo Casagrande
Casagrande adds his own stamp of high elegance and creativity
which you can see in dishes such as apple millefeuille
and where the surprising aesthetic never surpasses the combination of amazing flavours
The Government Commission approved a new urban plan this week that will enable the firs station in L’Eixample to be relocated to the site of the Mercedes dealership where the streets of Comte d’Urgell
The fire station is temporarily housed in the Parc de Joan Miró
The new location meets the needs of the corps in terms of mobility and its response capabilities within its area of service
The agreement is a strategic one for the city
particularly the district of L’Eixample and the Barcelona Fire Service
unlocking the definitive location for the fire station in the district after years at its temporary location in the Parc de Joan Miró
to allow for the fire station to be located there on an anticipated site of 2,215 m2
with a built space of 2,100 m2 on the ground level and two underground floors; plus another part classified as “18
which would help to fund the operation and be used for offices and commercial activity
with the car dealership to continue on the site until then
they looked for a more enjoyable and less stressful way to do what they loved
starting with basically nothing but their enthusiasm and their solid ideas to convince the banks to give them a loan to start their own restaurant in 2011
with just Zaballa (head chef) and González (front of the house and sommelier) on board and after years of hard work
they are opening a second place – with a different concept but the same name – and making the original restaurant a reference point for market cuisine in the area
The cuisine here is simple but with a “cooking school” touch: interesting and precise
They offer a variety of savory and sweet dishes of traditional or reinterpreted recipes from northern Spain (Zaballa is from Vigo-Galicia
There are excellent cold cuts and ham and a great selection of artisanal Spanish cheeses
Norte also has a small but ambitious wine list available by the bottle or glass
She always chooses interesting wines from small producers made with personality
sweet or savory dishes and a wide-ranging menu that includes sandwiches and egg dishes made with the best free-range eggs from Calaf prepared any way you wish
Among the many sides on offer is the restaurant’s famous Spanish omelet
and the most demanding customers can tell if it was made by Lara or not
But other customers come for the fish of the day and don’t even ask what the fish is; they just know that it’s going to be fresh and delicious
Some come just for the leche frita (fried milk
a very traditional Galician dessert that is hard to find in any restaurant
Still others come to the restaurant for another elusive classic dish
which are given an Asian reinterpretation with sesame batter and ponzu sauce
it would be impossible to remove the little hamburger of pickled pheasant with caramelized onion and arugula without hurting the culinary sensibilities of a number of customers here
The fish of the day we tasted on a recent visit was cod cocotxas (or kokotxas)
an always wonderful Basque dish made with cod (or hake) cheeks
it was accompanied by baked potatoes and a few drops of a parsley sauce
The smoked sardine surprised us: It appeared simple
served over fresh cheese and a piece of bread
but it made for a succulent and filling bite and paired perfectly with González’s wine recommendation
we had one of Zaballa’s much-loved desserts
“Congito,” made with chocolate mousseline with peanut streusel
roasted peanuts and chocolate cream with a touch of salt – luscious in flavor
airy in texture and absolutely divine in general
For a top-notch lunch with a glass of great wine or a small bite or delightful breakfast
The agreement is very important for the city
The deal unlocks the definitive location of the Escola Entença
which will move to the site currently housing a Mercedes dealership
New location for the district fire station
The Government Commission has approved an urban planning agreement with the owner of the site currently used as a Mercedes dealership
The deal will enable the fire station currently located in the Parc de Joan Miró to be moved to this site
The agreement means reclassifying the land where the dealership is located and then amending the General Municipal Plan and redefining the plot
the agreement will allow the car sales office to continue operating on the site
Work is expected to get under way from 2029
The transfer of the fire station will enable the Parc de Joan Miró to regain the space temporarily used for this facility of 1,964 m2 of surface space
A major agreement has been achieved to enable the site in C/ Provença for two facilities: the Escola Entença
currently housed in some prefabricated modules in La Model awaiting a definitive location
and a healthcare facility linked to the activity of the Hospital Clínic Barcelona – Catalan Health Service
This operation will need to be firmed up with various procedures and unlocks the future of two facilities which are absolutely necessary for and long sought by the District Office and the Esquerra de l’Eixample neighbourhood
The deal comes after months of negotiations and work by different parties and at different levels to find solutions now the future enlargement of the Hospital Clínic Barcelona is cleared up
with the signature in January of an agreement to build the new Healthcare Campus of the hospital and sports courts for the University of Barcelona
The goal now is to have a document within six months that guarantees the terms of the agreement
and which details the next steps and planning and urban management needed for the lease of the site for the effective construction of the education and healthcare facilities from 2028
Multilateral agreement to resolve the future of these facilities
the agreement for the definitive location of the Escola Entença follows joint work and the complicity of all the municipal groups on the District Council (Junts
who unanimously agreed in February to create a working group with all the political parties from L’Eixample
the Education Consortium and the District Manager’s Office
to work together on a definitive solution for the Escola Entença
the agreement on the urban transformation of the site delimited by the streets of Londres
also enables a definitive site to be found for the district fire station
The Catalan capital’s radical new strategy will restrict traffic to a number of big roads
drastically reducing pollution and turning secondary streets into ‘citizen spaces’ for culture
In the latest attempt from a big city to move away from car hegemony, Barcelona has ambitious plans. Currently faced with excessive pollution and noise levels, the city has come up with a new mobility plan to reduce traffic by 21%
And it comes with something extra: freeing up nearly 60% of streets currently used by cars to turn them into so-called “citizen spaces”
The plan is based around the idea of superilles (superblocks) – mini neighbourhoods around which traffic will flow
and in which spaces will be repurposed to “fill our city with life”
Read moreAccording to several studies, air pollution alone causes 3,500 premature deaths a year in Barcelona’s metropolitan area (with a population of 3.2 million)
as well as having severe effects on local ecosystems and agriculture
Barcelona and the 35 municipalities in its surrounding area have persistently failed to meet EU-established air quality targets
A study from the local Environmental Epidemiology Agency determined that 1,200 deaths could be prevented in the city yearly just by reaching EU-mandated levels for nitrogen dioxide levels (this would mean a five-month rise in life expectancy)
Add to that an estimated 18,700 fewer asthma attacks
12,100 fewer cases of acute bronchitis and 600 fewer cardiovascular-related hospitalisations
and the problem becomes apparent for a city with a population of 1.6 million
Traffic is also the first cause for noise pollution in the city; 61% of its residents live with noise levels higher than those deemed healthy by legislation
The council also cites road accidents (9,095 last year, 27 of which were fatal)
sedentary lifestyles (one in five kids in Barcelona are overweight or at risk of reaching that state)
and the lack of green spaces as reasons driving the plan
The city has only 6.6 sq metres of green space per inhabitant (with the figures standing at just 1.85 in Eixample and 3.15 in Gràcia)
closer to Tokyo’s three than to London’s 27
The World Health Organisation suggests every city should have at least 9 sq metres per capita
which largely follows the same grid pattern
a superblock will consist of nine existing blocks of the grid
lorry and bus traffic will then be restricted to just the roads in the superblock perimeters
and they will only be allowed in the streets in between if they are residents or providing local businesses
and at a greatly reduced speed of 10km/h (typically the speed limit across the city is 50km/h
View image in fullscreenBlack routes allow public transport and cars at 50km/h
while green routes only allow private vehicles at 10km/h to prioritise pedestrians and cycling
Illustration: BCNecologiaThe objectives are ambitious; by implementing these strategies at once
the city wants to reduce car use by 21% over the next two years and increase mobility by foot
Superblocks will be complemented by the introduction of 300km of new cycling lanes (there are currently around 100km)
as well as an orthogonal bus network that has already been put in place
whereby buses only navigate a series of main thoroughfares
director of the city’s urban ecology agency and one of the drivers of the superblocks idea
that “anyone will be less than 300 metres from a bus stop at any time – and average waiting times will be of five minutes anywhere in the city [current averages stand at 14]”
“it would be an equitable network in which one could go from any point A to point B with just one transfer in 95% of the cases
Our objective is for Barcelona to be a city in which to liveJanet Sanz“It’s no surprise that this concept was born here,” said mobility city councillor Mercedes Vidal in the public presentation of the plan this month
it’s all the more necessary to re-conquer spaces.” If all goes as planned
around seven of the 13.8 million sq metres now dedicated to motorised traffic will be freed up
“We want these public spaces to be areas where one can exercise all citizen rights: exchange, expression and participation, culture and knowledge, the right to leisure,” Rueda says.
The entire process is being conducted in nine areas at a different pace, through what Sanz called “tactical urbanism” – a gradual trial and error method of sorts, with initial measures such as changing road signs – and with an initial budget of €10m (£7.9m). Now it is time to “go from theory to action”, she says.
Read moreRueda says superblocks go back to Cerdà’s philosophy and take it to the next level
by making it live with and for the ecosystem
What was green in the plan was slowly overtaken and built on
they slowly overtook more and more space ..
We want to reclaim those green spaces and that can only be done through a drastic mobility change.”
An Eixample superblock of about 400 x 400 metres
would be inhabited by between 5,000 and 6,000 people
Everything we need to consider to face the challenges of this turn of a century – construction
social cohesion – should be captured in these superblocks.”
“Every superblock is like a small city with its own character,” the plan suggests
An Eixample intersection is as big as a Gràcia square,” says Rueda
and he highlights that this new city structure will free up 160 intersections
“I’m already fantasising with neighbourhood-organised inflatable swimming pools in the summer,” he jokes
Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter and Facebook and join the discussion
Guardian Cities is a member of the Habitat III Journalism Project. Read more about the project here