With its trendy wine bars and traditional Galician razor clams El Poblenou is the bit of Barcelona where you can really live like a local Lifestyle | Travel If you visit Barcelona right now as the high season has firmly come to an end it’s likely that you’ll have nothing but lovely interactions with the locals This couldn’t be said for the city’s earlier visitors this summer who had to endure being sprayed by water pistols and were driven out of the city centre by anti-tourism protests But there are still remnants of a particularly tense summer in Barca with “tourists go home” graffiti near the local landmarks serving as a semi-permanent reminder But don’t let it put you off visiting the city it just doesn’t need centralised throngs of totally un-self aware tourists blocking traffic holding selfie sticks and making their very lived-in city centre unlivable So, if you’re considering paying the place a visit soon, make like the locals and explore the El Poblenou neighbourhood instead This is the place to go if you’re the type of person who likes to visit European cities to get a taste of what it’s actually like to live there up-and-coming area is popular among young Barcelonans due to its relative distance from the busy visitor-heavy citadel and its closeness to some of Barcelona’s best beaches El Poblenou is just 30 minutes drive from Barcelona-El Prat Airport airport and prominent hotel chains are starting to base themselves there a 4-star hotel that is housed within an ultra-modern skyscraper designed by legendary French architect Dominique Perrault If views are your thing, this is the place to be, with Meliá Barcelona Sky currently standing as the fourth tallest building in the city (rooms from £144 a night, melia.com) While Barcelona Sky is closer to the sea, there’s also a The Hoxton by Ennismore property in the area — offering that classic London hotel charm — and it is situated just 21 minutes walk from the Sagrada Familia (rooms from £153 a night, thehoxton.com) But don’t feel like you need to walk everywhere: Poblenou is a station on one of the city’s most useful Metro lines For this reason, if you’d rather stay central and venture out to El Poblenou, we recommend ME Barcelona, Meliá Barcelona Sky’s luxurious, avant-garde sister hotel nearer the centre of the city, which has a rooftop pool so stunning it practically demands to be photographed (rooms from £273 a night, melia.com) but it is a social one — like a Spanish Hackney if Hackney wasn’t so extortionately expensive now enjoy the slow paced Mediterranean drinking culture Recently opened Masa Vins (instagram.com/masa.vins) is an uber-trendy wine bar with mirrored interiors and despicably good looking Henry’s feels like a Spanish version of Ridley Road Disco — the type of place you should end a lively night in Poblenou with some dancing and drunk inhaling of chicken wings “Chicken wings?!” you scoff. Line your stomach before then, with something more authentically Spanish, like tapas at El 58 (instagram.com/restauranteel58) or Galician razor clams and locally caught lobster at Racó de la Vila (racodelavilla.com) But the best food will be found on the other side of Poblenou with its hand-written menus and exceptional home cooking A former worker’s bar from back when Poblenou was an entirely industrial area The menu changes ever slightly day by day according to which ingredients are fresh and in season In the daytime, pass your time picking up sourdough buns and challah at Barbara Bakery, or visiting the ultra-stylish, appointment-only Vasto Gallery (Carrer de Llull, 109, 08005), which is part architecture project, part art space (vasto.es) But be sure to spend most of your time on the pristine nearby beaches with Barcelona situated on the northeast coast of the Iberian Peninsula If there’s one way to ensure an anti-tourism free holiday it’s blending in with the locals like this — it might just cost you your clothes Sorry tourist-haters — Barcelona is the perfect break for families London's hottest areas: 10 postcodes where homes sell up to six times faster than in central London Madrid: the perfect base for audiophiles and tapas lovers alike 11 Tropical getaways to book for a Christmas escape — where temperatures are at least 27C VE Day 2025 fashion: best looks from the day VE Day 2025 fashion: Princess of Wales to Lady Victoria Starmer Prince Louis steals the show at VE Day parade as he keeps dad William looking sharp and mimics brother George Prince Louis steals show with sweet antics at VE parade Ukraine 'launches stunning Kursk offensive' in major blow for Putin ahead of Victory Day celebrations Ukraine 'launches stunning Kursk offensive' in blow for Putin David Beckham extends olive branch to son Brooklyn amid 'family feud' Pregnant Jesy Nelson reveals plans for future in message from her hospital bed after surgery Pregnant Jesy Nelson reveals plans for future in message from hospital Best in Travel is here! 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Poblenou now has several craft beer spots, with Hoppiness being one of the favourites Don't miss the deliciously tangy passionfruit beer You might also like: The best Barcelona barrios for escaping the crowds Named after the tech city in California, Palo Alto is Barcelona’s trendiest market you’ll find an array of food trucks selling everything from vegan fare to gourmet burgers The market takes place on the first weekend of every month and is now so popular that you need to buy tickets to enter Hip Scandi design can be found in abundance at the cosy Noak Room The unique pieces are sourced directly from Sweden The very best of Barcelona design has been brought together in this huge, chic industrial warehouse There’s everything from vases and mirrors to lamps designed by modern Catalan designers and even the greats like Salvador Dalí and Antoni Gaudí You might also like: The best free things to do in Barcelona The best coffee roasters in the city come together to show off their barista skills inside one of Poblenou’s old warehouses in late October/early November each year There are free lattes and espressos for those prepared to wait in the somewhat disorderly queues as well as coffee tasting workshops and talks if you want to learn more about the beans The barrio opens itself up for the city to snoop around its design schools, workshops, galleries, hotels, and even garage rooftops for one night in November and one day in May. It’s a crazy hive of events hidden all over the district: discover DJs set up in galleries, and cocktail bars nestled in old abandoned buildings and tech hotels. The city’s festival of light takes over Poblenou and the @22 district in mid-February each year. Light installations are projected onto the facades of hotels and tech companies, while others can be found hidden inside design schools and renovated factories. You may have to queue to see the best of them, but it’s usually well worth it. many Catalan families will visit the graves of their loved ones on November 1 like in other Catholic countries. If you visit a cemetery in Catalonia after Halloween you will see a lot of fresh flowers that loved ones have brought to pay respects. that may not be the only thing to catch your attention as cemeteries in Barcelona and Catalonia are quite different to those in other places. cemeteries are beautiful green spaces similar to parks Cemeteries in Catalonia are like small cities These are constructions similar to buildings as the walls have several rows and columns where the coffins go. There is also the tradition of burying the deceased in underground graves but it is not as common as usually only people of a certain social class do that. All of these types of infrastructures come from the first cemetery in Barcelona that also inspired other cemeteries in Catalonia The Cemetery of Poblenou was built at the end of the 18th century At that time the deceased were buried in parochial pits in the church graveyards but the communal graves began to collapse as the population increased during the industrial revolution. That is when the diocese of Barcelona decided to build a cemetery outside the city walls of Barcelona The cemetery was designed by the Italian architect Antonio Ginesi. Ginesi designed a cemetery that promoted social equality where everyone could be buried in the same way respecting the person’s individuality regardless of their social or economic status This is the why the above-ground niche tomb appears," Adrià Terol the cultural manager of Cementiris de Barcelona "It was an innovative cemetery at the time," Terol emphasizes. But as the cemetery grew in capacity that idea of equality in the design changed. As the bourgeoise was emerging as the new powerful social class they initiated the construction of the second enclosure of the Cemetery of Poblenou "In this second enclosure the bourgeoise made use of art and culture as a social distinction commissioning the best architects and sculptors to work on their tombs," Adrià Terol tells Catalan News. The Cemetery of Poblenou has been turned into an open-air museum as a part of it has been filled with sculptures and pantheons from the neoclassic movement in Catalonia. One of the most popular sculptures in Cemetery of Poblenou is 'The Kiss of Death' or 'El petó de la mort' in Catalan. a winged skeleton which is kissing a young boy and his stomach is contracted because he is taking his last breath His arms hang down and his hands touch the floor as his mortal body surrenders," Adrià Terol describes. This grave was ordered by the Llaudet i Soler family for the loss of his son and has now won international recognition especially among the goth art lovers wordlwide and in the internet. The Cemetery of Poblenou has seen a certain increase in visitors in the past few years both from locals and from international tourists as well. Cementiris de Barcelona gives guided tours of the Cemetery of Poblenou to schools and civic centers but also for people who have just arrived to Catalonia and are learning the Catalan language. The cultural activities in the various cemeteries of the Catalan capital are open for everyone, with guided visits of the Cemetery of Poblenou two Sundays every month, one in Catalan and the other in Spanish. If booked in advance there can also be tours in English or other languages. Get the day's biggest stories right to your phone Get under the skin of the Catalan capital with our pick of five under-the-radar neighbourhoods to explore in Barcelona Get your weekly dose of armchair travelling Address: Carrer dels Pellaires 30, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: paloaltomarket.com the gallery turns into a buzzing shop space hosting evening events such as wine tastings Address: Carrer de Roc Boronat 69, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: noakroom.com bear heads on beige shorts - which are all designed in-house by founders Ivan Monells and Ramón Barbero The same playful look extends to the shop itself: there's an old-school boombox on wooden shelves skateboards fixed to the wall and a row of shirts hanging from a steel pole that's attached to the ceiling by thick ropes Address: Carrer Roc Boronat 6, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: bravafabrics.com which has bunting strung up along the walls and upside-down raffia baskets as lampshades also sells organic baby food and soothing aloe-vera-based skincare products Address: Carrer de Marià Aguiló 1-3, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: aupaorganics.com with Nordic Art Deco-style homeware and original mid-century designs such as Cassini glass coffee tables and G-Plan cabinets If you're not in the market for big statement pieces poke around for a variety of smaller items that don't need to be shipped home: ceramics magazine racks and even a lone brass stork statue The terrace at the home of Noak Room owners Sara Salas and Martin NoakssonSalva LopezAddress: Carrer de Pamplona 60, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: brutusdegaper.com Hands-on owner Raül Chamorro is a champion of the Barcelona music scene and hosts intimate gigs every Friday Address: Pujades 113, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: ultralocalrecords.com silver leaf earrings and botanical notebooks Illustration prints are lined up on hangers under the stairs and there's a coffee shop serving tostadas and homemade cakes with a communal table and benches covered with foliage-pattern cushions grab a seat on one of the upturned crates out front and watch the world go by Address: Carrer de Badajoz 95, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: instagram.com/espaijoliu Brunch spot Can DendêSalva LopezThe local brunch spotFor a brunch of pancakes with maple syrup, eggs Benedict or pulled-pork sandwiches, head to Can Dendê where the open kitchen serves up delicious food on enamel plates Wash it all down with Bloody Marys and lemonade in mason jars There is a handful of tables with classroom chairs but you can also eat at the bar or perch on the bench outside it's packed out with locals so service can be slow but this is definitely the place you want to be Address: Carrer de la Ciutat Granada 44, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: candende.com 'Bloody good coffee' is the slogan on the takeaway cups at Nomad Roasters' Home The company has two other shops in Barcelona but here you can see the beans being roasted slowly turning in a giant mixer through the glass doors at the back The coffee selection is seasonal - Ethiopian and Kenyan blends in the summer Colombian and Ugandan in the winter - and if you like what you try Address: Carrer de Pujades 95, Barcelona, SpainWebsite: nomadcoffee.es/en Els Pescadors restaurantSalva LopezAn insider's guide to BarcelonaGonzalo Aixa-Torres on the best things to do in Barcelona'Recasens is a really popular neighbourhood hangout wooden chopping boards piled high with slices of ham 'Not quite a bar and not quite a restaurant, Vermut & Sifó is the best spot for a glass of vermouth - which they make themselves - or wine paired with small tapas such as olives and spicy potatoes.' one of the best fish restaurants in the city.' To rent a bike, visit bcnclassicrides.com Poblenou is a neighborhood in the district of San Martin that for many years had its own life away from the center of Barcelona which has allowed it to have a special character that is still alive all the Poblenou entities are actively involved in the organization of the activities that take place during the festival and of course popular culture: giants (with the emblematic parrot of 36) children's workshops and sports championships From September 6 to 30 (opening day 6 at 19:00 h) at the Civic Center Can Felipa (Josep Maria Huertas Claveria square 1) Poble Nou Swimming Club celebrates its centenary with a special exhibition at Can Felipa You are invited to the opening to discover its history through photos documents and memories that show a century of sporting passion and community Organizers: Coordinadora de Entidades del Poblenou In collaboration with: Swimming Club Poble Nou and Civic Center Can Felipa Starting at Rambla del Poblenou (between Pere IV and Sancho de Ávila streets) It is a festive parade of neighbors and neighbors prior to the reading of the proclamation of the Festival September 7 at 19:00 h in the Rambla del Poblenou between Joncar street and Ramon Turró street The proclamation this year will be in charge of the CLUB NATACIÓ POBLENOU and its 100 years of history Its centenary memories told by a representation of its members who will invite us to enjoy the Festival of the neighborhood September 8 at 8:00 am throughout Poblenou Grallers and timbaleros of Poblenou meet and play together the "Matinades" visiting entities and neighbors who invite them to have a bite to eat The route starts at Rambla del Poblenou and Tànger street September 8 from 10:00 to 14:00 h in Can Saladrigas square (inner courtyard) Matinal of traditional children's games for boys and girls September 8 from 11:00 to 15:00 h in the Rambla de Poblenou with Joncar street along with other invited groups from all over Catalonia offers one of the most special moments of the Poblenou Festival September 12 from 20:00 to 22:00 h at Casinno la Alianza del Poblenou (Rambla del Poblenou 42) Starting at Rambla del Poblenou with Sancho de Àvila street Festive and morning parade of children from different schools in the neighborhood sound and tradition with the essential Correfoc of the Festa Major With the Colla del Dragón and the Colla de Diablos de Poblenou September 15 from 9:00 to 11:30 am at the Center for Festive Imagery of Poblenou (Plaza Can Saladrigas) Plantada of giants from all over Catalonia September 15 (parade from 11:30 to 13:00 h and dance from 13:00 to 14:00 h) 35 and dance in Rambla de Poblenou with Joncar street Beginning in the Rambla del Poblenou with Joncar street Traditional parade of giants that will go with their festive imagery figures and musicians to the beach at the beginning of the Fireworks Castle September 15 from 22:00 to 22:30 h on the beach of Bogatell Closing of the Festival with the traditional and magical fireworks display Complete program (PDF) The Independent's journalism is supported by our readers When you purchase through links on our site Located beachside to the northeast of the city centre, this ex-industrial area is now a creative and cultural hub and home to some of the city’s best eating and drinking spots, writes Elizabeth Bennett Our microguides series is inspired by the slow travel movement encouraging travellers to relax their pace and take a deep dive into one particular neighbourhood in a well-loved city Rather than a whirlwind itinerary which aims to hit up every must-see attraction take your time and truly explore like a local Known as the Manchester of Catalonia for its involvement in the Industrial Revolution it wasn’t until the 1992 Olympic games and a regeneration project that built modern apartments and a number of artificial beaches that Poblenou – meaning “new village” in Catalan – became a fully integrated part of Barcelona where abandoned textile factories have been transformed into art schools a 1km-long Rambla (a pedestrianised street) stretches from Glories to the beach it retains a lovely local vibe that feels worlds away from the touristy parts of town Here’s how to spend a few days in one of Barcelona’s most interesting barrios… Barcelona’s most famous Rambla – located in the historic Gòtico quarter – may steal the limelight but in reality it’s overrun with tourists and the accompanying tat for sale and Poblenou’s is one of Barcelona’s most charming A wander down here with a stop for a morning coffee and pan con tomate or afternoon vermouth is a must Search “Rambla del Poblenou” on your map to find it Spanning 70,000 items, Disseny Hub is a design museum with a focus on Spanish and Catalan-made work Wind your way through the four floors of fashion ceramics and graphic design – before refuelling at the Cafeteria Sauleda where you’ll find a purse-friendly lunch deal Alternatively, the IDEAL Centre is an old theatre that’s been transformed into southern Europe’s first space dedicated to producing and showcasing the digital arts Essentially it’s a cultural centre meets art gallery with rotating exhibitions Currently on is an immersive biography of the famed Mexican artist Frida Kahlo Like its name suggests, Market Cuina Fresca is all about making the most of local With 80 per cent of dishes being plant-based it’s an ideal location for vegetarians to try the famously meaty Catalan cuisine the menú del dia (a three-course daily set lunch) is extremely good value for €12 try and nab a table in the sun-drenched courtyard out back This seaside institution serves up arguably the best paella in town. Located on Bogatell beach, Xiringuito Escribà has been serving the classic rice dish alongside a range of seafood and local wine since the Olympics put this area of Barcelona on the map back in 1992 Do like the locals do and book a table for Sunday lunch (paella is never a dinner dish) and enjoy your rice with a side of people-watching along the promenade Located in the pedestrian area that extends off Poblenou’s main Rambla, El Abasto’s terrace feels like a quintessential Barcelona experience Mediterranean-inspired dishes designed to share like tapas and the seasonally changing menu is always inventive the staff are friendly and the wine selection is impressive The brunch revolution is slowly starting to take off in Barcelona. On an unassuming street just off the Rambla, Little Fern is leading the way: this bright corner cafe serves up all-day dishes like sweetcorn fritters or kimchi pancakes alongside excellent coffee and a tempting cabinet of homemade cakes A rather faded-looking neighbourhood bar, Monopol has a lovely rooftop terrace which can be accessed via the back courtyard it’s a laid-back affair serving local beer wine and vermouth alongside simple tapas dishes With a plush, retro interior and impressive cocktail list, Balius Bar is a great spot for a nightcap when you’ll find a packed crowd here for the live jazz Encompassing two old factories and the building that housed Sala Zeleste (a club that closed in 2000), Razzmatazz is one of the city’s biggest clubs and music venues The venue attracts an impressive line-up of world-renowned DJs and live bands – just remember to do like the locals and not turn up before 2am With its roots going all the way back to the 14th century, Encants Market is steeped in history it’s easily spotted with its 25-metre high Inside is a warren of permanent shops and market stalls selling secondhand furniture antiques and an array of interesting knick-knacks Whether you’re looking to buy or just window shop Cosy and charming, this is a coffee shop meets homeware store Stop by for coffee and a cinnamon bun before browsing the array of intriguing indie magazines locally sourced homeware and handsome collection of plants this abandoned factory is transformed into a lively market stocking some of Barcelona’s best independent clothes this mini shopping-festival is not to be missed The beloved, affordable London hotel chain just opened its first Spanish outpost in the Poblenou district. Hoxton Barcelona’s 240 rooms are Mediterranean-inspired with terracotta tiles floor-to-ceiling windows and Catalan art; the rooftop has views looking over to the Sagrada Familia as well as a pool It’s straightforward to get to Barcelona from the UK by train. From London, take the Eurostar to Paris. Cross the city to Gare de Lyon and take the high-speed TGV train on to Barcelona. Several airlines, including British Airways, easyJet and Ryanair, fly direct from multiple UK airports. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies {"adUnitPath":"71347885/_main_independent/in_travel/in_48-hours-in/image/gallery_mpu_sb","autoGallery":true,"disableAds":false,"gallery":[{"data":{"title":"3441.JPG","description":"Rambla del Poblenou","caption":"Rambla del Poblenou one of Barcelona’s coolest neighbourhoods","description":"Located beachside to the northeast of the city centre this ex-industrial area is now a creative and cultural hub and home to some of the city’s best eating and drinking spots the city known for its vibrant culture and innovative architecture has an event that every winter lights up its streets and transforms its urban landscape into an unforgettable visual spectacle The Llum BCN festival is a gathering that fuses technology art and creativity to offer a unique sensory experience With its epicenter in the Poblenou neighborhood this international event highlights not only the creativity of local artists The Llum BCN festival was born with the purpose of turning winter nights into a canvas where lights dance transforming the environment into something almost magical it takes place during a weekend in February The most remarkable thing about this festival is how the installations interact with the architectural environment of the city highlighting iconic structures and hidden corners of Poblenou The essence of the festival lies in exploring the potential of light art neon and 3D projections to completely transform space the artists challenge daytime perceptions and invite viewers to see the city from a whole new perspective One of the most impressive aspects of LlUB BCN is its commitment to innovation but it also serves as a platform for artists to experiment with new technologies and creative methods This avant-garde approach attracts creators from different corners of the world who see the festival as an opportunity to showcase their latest works while absorbing inspiration from the works of their peers this event collaborates closely with academics and students from prestigious art and design institutions in Barcelona who often showcase their projects at the festival This eclectic mix of emerging talent and veterans creates an environment of constant collaboration and exchange ensuring that Llum BCN evolves and surprises year after year a neighborhood that was once the industrial heart of Barcelona it is a bastion of creativity and innovation making it the perfect backdrop for Llum BCN provide the ideal setting for light installations that demand interaction and movement Walking through Poblenou during the festival is like wandering through an open-air art gallery Every corner can surprise with a new installation from projections that transform entire buildings to lights that respond to human movement This turns a simple evening stroll into an experience of constant discovery Llum BCN has a significant cultural and social impact Attracting thousands of visitors to the city contributes significantly to the local economy especially in a traditionally quieter period for tourism the event fosters a sense of community and pride among the residents of Poblenou and the rest of Barcelona the festival encourages dialogue about the use of public space and the relationship between technology and art It also raises questions about sustainability in art and how light installations can be environmentally friendly These discussions are essential in an era where environmental awareness is becoming increasingly crucial The future of Llum BCN looks as bright as the lights that make it up the festival not only raises the bar for what can be achieved with light art but also challenges its participants and audience to expand their imagination As new artists join the event and old friends return Llum BCN can only grow in diversity and innovation Whoever is lucky enough to experience Llum BCN will take away an indelible memory A festival that not only illuminates streets and buildings demonstrating that the power of light can be much deeper than what is perceived with the naked eye Stock images by Depositphotos La venta de la nuda propiedad Copyright © 2022 Salirporbarcelona , All rights Reserved. Created by JEZZ Media This menu requires arrow keys to be able to use it Related activities MUHBA Oliva Artés is a meeting point between the city’s formation over time and its potential for the future built in 1920 and dedicated to machinery production and repair is now a laboratory space of the Barcelona History Museum in Poblenou It is a space that has been conceived as a laboratory and a participatory museum about the history It is also a space that works with neighbourhood associations and study centres the Poblenou Historical Archive and the Poblenou Neighbours’ Association It is also a space where educational activities have been conducted and workshops for schools to sessions of Patrimonia'm or Service Learning (Cicerón Bcn) The MUHBA Oliva Artés space is currently hosting the permanent exhibition Questioning Barcelona From Industrialization to the 21st Century an exhibition that examines the development of Barcelona from the eighteenth century to the present day with approaches from different angles such as labour Video-summary of the MUHBA Oliva Artés space Ticket reservations and activitiesbarcelona.cat/museuhistoria barcelona.cat/museuhistoria https://www.facebook.com/museuhistoriabarcelona twitter.com/bcncultura 03/02/2025 | 0 comments Llum BCN comes back to the streets of Barcelona this February El Poblenou will be the main stage for this internationally renowned festival one of the most anticipated events on the city’s cultural calendar Website: Llum Barcelona 2025 Information Llum BCN is a grand laboratory of the nighttime landscape featuring artists with established careers on the international scene the festival will bring together creative explorers from various disciplines: art lighting and interactive environment design Beyond its festive nature and being a spectacular ephemeral show Llum BCN is conceived as an opportunity to ask questions challenge our preconceived notions of urban space and create new models of participation and coexistence in public spaces Poblenou transforms once again into a large open-air experimentation lab using light as a creative medium and the work of artists and architects from around the world exploring possibilities offered by new techniques such as dynamic lighting and interactive environments in urban spaces It’s a way to discover the city in a different light and also serves as a reflection on where and how the language of public space can evolve in the future and unique corners to tell us new stories with the power of light With the participation of emerging artists we’ve had the pleasure of experiencing Llum Barcelona It’s worth going early to find parking and plan the circuit of spaces to visit Keep in mind that some buildings and spaces may be very crowded it’s advisable to keep an eye on them and depending on where you go with strollers It’s advisable to plan your visit; on the website you can check the map with all the spaces featuring a light show or installation Each edition of Llum BCN is a great civic celebration It’s also a collective experiment of perception and participation an urban laboratory where we explore how we could contemplate and inhabit our shared territory—the city—from new and unprecedented perspectives Download the Llum BCN 2025 app. Some of the places or spaces where you can enjoy a light and color show include: Plaça de les Glòries You can also find a gastronomic space in different areas where all festival visitors can enjoy a meeting point and rest while tasting different foods Web: Llum Barcelona 2025 YES, I WANT Already a member? 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Sign up Explore our Food Tours → tree-lined boulevard that runs through the neighborhood of the same name groups of friends and chummy neighbors who have been seduced by the peaceful village atmosphere and the proximity of the beach recently opened on the ground floor of an old house – formerly a traditional bodega that sold bulk wine and now one of the most delightful tapas bars in the area met while working together at Hotel Diagonal 00 in Barcelona the former as lodging director and the latter as the executive chef When Misan was looking to start his own personal project with all his professional cooking experience (such as at Dos with the Torres twins the perfect partner to join him on this adventure Misan has lived in El Clot and Poblenou for 16 years and knew it was the right location for the kind of place he wanted to open: a casual spot with excellent uncomplicated food served in a warm atmosphere and at gentle prices (the menu del día is just €10) Misan has decorated El 58 with comics and art The sock-monkey-like stuffed red dolls – all named Quim – hanging from the walls and flying through the space were made by architect and artist Aleix Antillach The usual scene here includes kids playing and friends holding forth while clutching refreshing gin and tonics in the backyard (a glorious setting on fine spring days) Drinkers can refresh their vermuts with the old-school soda siphons that can be found throughout the bar Martínez has created a mix of traditional and contemporary tapas and platillos (little dishes to share not strictly tapas) with some international touches (French and Asian There are more than 30 different tapas listed on the blackboard it’s clear that Martínez knows how to combine ingredients in ways that are not only felicitous but also surprising (in a good way of course) and that he knows how to highlight the best qualities of each ingredient he uses The menu changes according to season – and sometimes the weather the traditional winter stews of butifarra and chickpeas have made way for lighter fare Popular tapas include the salmon mini burgers marinated fried chicken with wasabi-honey mayonnaise and the terrific patatas bravas inspired by those of renowned restaurant Bohemic made with a caramelized-garlic mayonnaise and another sauce of dried tomato We also love the Andalusian-style eggplant fried and perfumed with honey and rosemary – it’s a dish that transports us straight to the Mediterranean Fish and seafood hold a prominent place on the menu as should be the case in a restaurant so close to the beach Martínez serves Japanese-inspired sashimi – silken slices of tuna salmon and scallop – as well as salmon tataki and a delicate cod carpaccio pointed up by olives which he marinates and fries to just the right tenderness and spices with cumin a touch of smoked paprika and other spices We’ve only just scratched the surface on Martínez’s long list of tapas and we look forward to returning to see what else he has cooking – as well as to soak up some sun in the backyard Editor’s note: To celebrate the our 2019 neighborhood guide we will be republishing dispatches from the less-visited areas – like Poblenou – that our correspondents are planning to explore this year loading map - please wait...Map could not be loaded - please enable Javascript!→ more information Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker Look out for your first newsletter in your inbox soon We help you navigate a myriad of possibilities Sign up for our newsletter for the best of the city By entering your email address you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy and consent to receive emails from Time Out about news Sign up for our email to enjoy your city without spending a thing (as well as some options when you’re feeling flush) Our newsletter hand-delivers the best bits to your inbox Sign up to unlock our digital magazines and also receive the latest news By entering your email address you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy and consent to receive emails from Time Out about news, events, offers and partner promotions. Barcelona Australian pastry chef Hayden Colledge worked out of Honey-B until he branched out on his own in the heart of Poblenou at the beginning of 2020 He says his distinguishing feature as a baker in Barcelona is his affinity for Australian and English pastries (he lived in England for a decade) He invents things that will make you fall off your seat when you eat them like a cheesecake made with coffee and croissant Colledge is happy to accommodate the needs of vegans and those who eat lactose- and gluten-free but otherwise he's all about using premium eggs you'll find what's considered one of Australia's national desserts the Lamington cake: chocolate and coconut cake filled with raspberry jam! And he does an unforgettable vegan chocolate cake with pistachios and rose petals which is a house speciality: once you eat a slice of this light and tasty cake you will not be able to leave a crumb behind Thanks for subscribing! Look out for your first newsletter in your inbox soon! facebook twitter spotify tiktok About us Contact us Time Out Worldwide In Barcelona‘s bustling office district of El Poblenou is hidden away an oasis dwelling dubbed Gallery House by interior designer Isern Serra — a small loft in a former industrial building from the 1970s has successfully created an aesthetic and practical living space for the artist Pol Solà A sense of peace and serenity washes over visitors at once upon crossing the threshold of this loft The interior designer took inspiration from the dreamlike architecture of the metaverse and has crafted a space that evokes the aesthetic of the digital world while maintaining the warmth of a home The resulting atmosphere is as a blend of contemporary minimalism and a Mediterranean touch that permeates every corner © Enric Badrinas | @enricbadrinas With the design of the Gallery House in El Poblenou, Isern Serra achieves a sense of spaciousness in the compact loft lies in meticulous planning and the careful selection of elements. The interior designer has managed to imbue the loft with a soft curated style while maintaining functionality integrating Pol’s own pieces and those of his friends all contribute to creating a vibrant atmosphere filled with life and a personal touch Notable among the furnishings are custom-made tables that perfectly adapt to the space’s geometry adding a sense of personalization and coherence to the design a large division in the middle of the loft with a circular cutout wall evoking a moon gate in a Chinese garden elegantly and functionally separates the living area from the sleeping area Different curtains also aid in dividing the spaces providing a greater sense of openness and privacy the house acts as a gallery for the works of the artist and his friends the space blends the aesthetic of the digital world with the warmth of a home a collection of greenery infuses the loft with nature a full wall of windows floods the room with soft daylight circular furnishings harmonize with the moon gate portals Isern Serra blends contemporary minimalism with a Mediterranean touch interior design: Isern Serra | @isernserra client: Pol Solà | @polsola photography: © Enric Badrinas | @enricbadrinas AXOR presents three bathroom concepts that are not merely places of function but destinations in themselves — sanctuaries of style which will provide almost one hundred affordable homes the inauguration ceremony was held in the presence of Joan Ramon Riera the Housing Commissioner of the Barcelona City Council as well as representatives of the districts The Abril cooperative housing will be built on a municipal plot of land – granted by the City Council for a period of 99 years through the ESAL Agreement – located at 115 Pere IV Street (el Parc i la Llacuna del Poblenou) one of which will be designated as social housing for young people formerly under guardianship Sotrac won a municipal competition in 2020 for the plot at 43 Constitució Street for a period of 75 years (plus 15 renewable years) designed according to universal accessibility criteria and a gender perspective while the ground floor will be reserved for community use and open to the neighbourhood Empriu will be built at 17-21 Mossèn Amadeu Oller Street (also in La Bordeta) and will consist of 40 housing units two of which will be reserved for groups at risk of social exclusion 96 new social housing units will be built under a use-rights model based on bioclimatic parameters and designed with the participation of the members of each cooperative residents will pay 40% less than the average market rent in these neighbourhoods The ESAL Agreement was signed in 2020 by the Barcelona City Council and the main associations of cooperatives and social housing foundations This agreement aims to be a pioneering mechanism of cooperation with the third sector through the allocation of public land to non-profit organisations and the transfer of the land This makes it possible to promote the construction and renovation of public housing for rent and the transfer of the right of use (cohousing) through the creation of surface rights It is a tool that promotes the growth of the public housing stock while diversifying the range of actors involved The projects submitted must comply with the following criteria: Located in Barcelona’s vibrant Poblenou neighborhood Azul Frida is not just a restaurant; it is an experience that transports the diner directly to the streets of Mexico Azul Frida offers a combination of tradition and modernity that captivates all its visitors which recently opened its second location in Poblenou has a fascinating history that adds a unique dimension to every visit The story of Azul Frida begins with a journey two brothers decided to explore the culinary world in London where they honed their craft and refined their style where their mother’s heritage and the international influences of the British capital merged in each recipe a life project that reflects Mexican culture at its best but with a touch of innovation that makes it unique in the city One of the highlights of the menu is the blue tortilla this tortilla not only provides a special nutty flavor the same antioxidant pigment found in fruits such as blueberries These tortillas wrap up generous portions of tacos The offer also includes vegetarian options a decision that reflects Azul Frida’s commitment to gastronomic diversity and the inclusion of different food preferences When you walk through the doors of Azul Frida the menu becomes an invitation to discover authentic Mexican flavors chamorro tacos and squash blossom quesadillas are just some of the delicacies that stand out on the menu prepared on the spot to guarantee freshness and an explosive spiciness The cochinita pibil burritos offer a more local version of this traditional recipe achieving a perfect balance between intense flavors and a succulent texture This dish represents the versatility of Mexican cuisine and its ability to adapt without losing its essence Azul Frida’s space is as captivating as its menu With a décor that mixes the traditional with the surreal the restaurant offers a cozy ambiance in which blue tones predominate Carefully selected details create the atmosphere of an authentic Mexican farmhouse with modern and unique touches The outdoor terrace is perfect for enjoying a good Margarita on a sunny day while the interior spaces provide the warmth needed to enjoy a relaxed and memorable dinner with classic options and creations inspired by Mexican flavors Margaritas are one of the most acclaimed drinks with a balanced mix that highlights tequila and citrus notes that refresh the palate a perfect choice for those who prefer something milder The restaurant’s staff is always ready to recommend the ideal pairing for each dish a service that enhances the experience and allows you to discover unique flavor combinations Despite the quality of the ingredients and the complexity of the flavors Azul Frida surprises its visitors with affordable prices Many customers consider the value for money to be excellent offering generous portions at a more than reasonable cost by Barcelona standards This balance makes Azul Frida an ideal choice for those seeking an authentic dining experience without going over budget Azul Frida has established itself as a benchmark for Mexican cuisine in Barcelona With an offer that combines iconic dishes of Mexican culture and a cozy atmosphere it has managed to charm locals and visitors alike This restaurant in Poblenou goes beyond food; it is a space where a connection is created between the diner and the Mexican culture but a trip to Mexico without leaving Barcelona personalized attention and a unique atmosphere the restaurant invites you to return again and again discovering new nuances and flavors that reaffirm its Mexican essence ———————————————- Tel: 936323222 Website: azulfrida.es Palo Alto is a space where 19 creative studios work in a converted old factory The eponymous foundation works to make this a comfortable and creative workspace fostering collaboration among the businesses It's also where you'll find the pop-up Palo Alto Market Those moving into the flats will pay a social rent according to the floor space of the home The combination of this rent and the communal costs for the homes will not exceed 40% of the income of the family nucleus Work began in August 2021 and entailed an overall investment of more than 18.3 million euros The teams of architects for the project were part of a joint venture between Peris Toral Arquitectes and Eletresjota Tècnics Associats The development is characterised by its energy sustainability with a bioclimate atrium that regulates the temperature of the homes and a prefabricated concrete structure that halves the quantity of concrete needed per square metre is about to undergo one of the most ambitious transformations in its history The urbanization works will cover a 1.4-kilometer stretch between Avinguda d’Icària and Plaça de les Glòries covering nine blocks and a total area of 28,420 square meters This transformation promises to change mobility and the urban environment creating a greener space adapted to the needs of the modern city One of the main features of the project is the creation of a new one-way bicycle lane that will run along the sea-mountain axis facilitating sustainable mobility in the city will connect the coastal façade with Guinardó integrating with other cycling axes such as those of carrer de la Independència and Diagonal This new infrastructure will contribute to consolidate Barcelona as one of the most cyclist-friendly cities in the world the sidewalks along the entire stretch of Carrer de Badajoz will be widened to 4.60 meters offering more space for pedestrians and promoting safer mobility This extension will be key to favoring coexistence between pedestrians The urbanization project will be carried out in two phases with a total estimated duration of two years which will begin in the second half of 2025 will cover the section between Avinguda d’Icària and Carrer de Pallars the second phase will be developed between carrer de Pere IV and avenida Diagonal The configuration of carrer de Badajoz will include a bus lane two traffic lanes and the aforementioned bicycle lane This redistribution of spaces will allow for better traffic flow and a more efficient use of public space adapting to the needs of the different road users Another key aspect of the transformation is the pacification of several intersections in the Poblenou and Parc i la Llacuna areas Raised and safe areas will be created at the intersections of carrer de Badajoz with carrer del Doctor Trueta These intersections will offer pedestrian spaces and will be equipped with additional vegetation and more permeable pavements promoting social interaction and safety in the busiest areas At the intersection of Badajoz and carrer de Ramon Turró the safety of students and families of the Voramar school will be prioritized expanding the pedestrian space and improving access to the institution the crossing with Sancho d’Ávila will be pacified in line with the characteristics of the Poblenou overpass which has already proven to be a success in improving the urban environment The project is committed to greater green coverage along carrer de Badajoz with the planting of trees and the creation of plant spaces designed to improve biodiversity Three types of plant strata will be installed: a herbaceous stratum with low-growing species a shrub stratum and a third stratum of cover trees almost double the 89 that currently exist in the area and an irrigation network will be installed to ensure the maintenance of this new vegetation The species chosen have low water requirements and can thrive in semi-shaded conditions ensuring the long-term sustainability of the project The urbanization will not only focus on aesthetic and mobility improvements but will also include a complete renovation of the basic services This involves the replacement of the pavement and the improvement of the drainage system of the carrer de Badajoz New LED lighting systems will also be installed which will improve the quality of light throughout the area reducing dark spots and favoring energy savings the urbanization will allow the extension of the hot-cold air conditioning network and the installation of pneumatic waste collection systems facilitating a more efficient and sustainable management of resources Carrer dels Almogàvers is another of the spaces that has already completed its transformation as part of the overall 22@ project The works have pacified this stretch between Badajoz and Roc Boronat creating a more pedestrian-friendly environment and promoting sustainable mobility These changes have also boosted local commerce giving a boost to the local economy in the area With the urbanization of Carrer de Badajoz Barcelona reaffirms its commitment to sustainability efficient mobility and the creation of safer and more accessible spaces for all This project will not only transform one of the main thoroughfares of 22@ but will also serve as a model for future urban interventions in the city a greater presence of greenery and the improvement of key infrastructure ensures that this transformation will not only benefit the residents of Poblenou but will also be an example of how cities can adapt to the challenges of the future Brazilian Patricia Leona from São Paulo is the heart and soul of this small and charming bar/restaurant that serves up a superlative brunch a professional chef with loads of experience has opted to create her own place with simple food and everyday products with a twist they boast four different versions of eggs Benedict and deli items for lunch that are simple yet exquisitely made like pulled pork sandwiches with pork that's marinated for hours and grilled and you'll also find a few Brazilian dishes This website has been translated using an AI program Earlier we lost our hearts in it Barcelona already to the Gracia district where we could wander from square to square so wonderfully where we enjoy coffee in the morning sun at Cometa and Federal for the street art and for the nicest addresses that open their doors here be sure to check out these great places when you get there: An unmissable hotel where you want to stay The Hoxton has opened a hotel on the coast and how In the most creative district of Barcelona – yes we are talking about El Poblenou – you will find this multifunctional destination did we mention that within a few minutes you will be standing with your feet in the sand The Hoxton Barcelona A coffee shop where you actually want to start the day every morning with a bowl full of healthy food and a cafe con lèche The whole thing is inspired by the café culture in New Zealand (as they say themselves) and on the menu you will find granola coconut yoghurt with rhubarb and juices bursting with vitamins (image via @TheOutliersGuide – recommended for those going to Barca!) somewhere between lunch and the moment when dining is finally allowed again This can of course be done in the form of a cava with a tapas on the side a place where you can chase away the afternoon blues with a steaming bowl of soup Also a nice place to spend an hour or so with your laptop More? Then also read this: 20 addresses in Barcelona that you probably didn't know yet We previously lost our hearts in Barcelona to the Gracia district The restaurant next to one of Barca's theaters is worth seeing even without attending a performance With a bit of luck you will catch a live performance and in any case you will eat well: tapas deluxe At Soho House Barcelona we always join in At Forastera the vibe is completely relaxed and the menu del día is exactly what we need after a morning of meandering through the up-coming neighborhood Although you can also go here for breakfast from 7 a.m and it is also great for an afternoon of flexible working as the types from the adjacent The Student Hotel prove because in addition to those salmon pink tables there is a bright pink bar there is the necessary neon lighting and there is a refrigerator with all kinds of trendy cans Then check whether the Palo Alto Market will be set up in El Poblebou Palo Alto is hidden between the old warehouses and there it suddenly becomes very green and cozy Add to that really good food and a cheerful band that really rocks and you have all the ingredients for a chill-out afternoon BarcelonaUndoubtedly the coolest spot in BarcelonaAll listings featured on Condé Nast Traveller are independently selected by our editors Barcelona has been crying out for some exciting new hotel openings, and The Hoxton has everything the city needs; a bar, rooftop, restaurant, hotel and more in an inclusive, upbeat environment. The Hoxton Poblenou is one of four opening in Europe in 2022, and only the fourth in continental Europe after Amsterdam, Paris and Rome. Guests aren’t immediately greeted by a stuffy reception, rather a colourful hand-painted (and well-stocked) bar, which leads to the check-in desk where guests can buy local treats – from snacks to recycled swim shorts – as their details are checked. While The Hoxton hotel rooms are categorised similarly in all of their properties, this launch sees the introduction of a new style: the ‘Homey’. Bigger than ever, with a separate lounge and kitchenette and featuring a deep bathtub, they’re ideal for longer stays or those looking for a little more space. The property has 240 rooms, but it never feels like a big hotel. They’re spread over nine floors, and corridors are painted in a classic pink Hoxton palette, with wavy walls welcoming you in. Eating and drinking is a key feature of any stay in a Hoxton, and it’s no different here. The bar flows into a bodega stocking local foods, which leads to the takeaway pizza stand, which opens up to Four Corners restaurant; a pizza place and outdoor terrace serving moreish mozzarella sticks with homemade arrabiata sauce and deep dish pizza so perfectly stodgy and cheesy, you only need one slice before you retire to your room with a nightcap. The property is as much a place for locals to hang out after work as it is for travellers, so you can expect crowds to be fun and varied. Laid back and friendly, The Hoxton’s staff are as cool as they come, without being intimidating. Ask for recommendations and they’ll get the tone just right, or hop on a bar stool and spark up conversation with the bartender who will chat happily along. This isn’t a property where you’ll be waited on hand and foot, and nor should it be – ask and you shall receive, basically. Buying locally is key for The Hoxton Poblenou, from the local artists that provided interior design and artwork to the retail collection featuring a range of limited edition products created in collaboration with some of the city’s best artisans, makers and brands which are available to buy. Accessibility for those with mobile impairments The ground floor including the reception, bodega, bar, Four Corners restaurant and meeting and event space The Apartment are all fully accessible, while all rooms and the rooftop can be reached via a lift. We checked in on The Hoxton’s opening day, and the property mostly ran as though it had been operating for months. By summer, this will undoubtedly be the most talked-about hotel in the city; get in quick if you want to make the most of it. it's made with cachaça and clementine juice with a touch of thyme in the creamy crown Balius is also a spot for good live music where you can feel free to eat some tapas and chat (quietly) during the show On the menu they've got Andalusian and Castilian tapas that are lesser-known to the Barcelona crowd such as 'lomo de orza' (finely cut pork loin marinated with spices) and 'atascaburras' (a salted cod dish with chopped potatoes Balius is part of the Slow Food and 'km 0' movements so your organic and locally sourced foods are guaranteed the Poblenou restaurant L’Artesana is small and simple The menu is not very extensive during the day but offers enough options in conjunction with the daily specials to keep you satisfied They are truly original and some of the best incorporating some originality of your own to your meal the hake with carrot and parsnips was is not a bad choice and is offered as the fish of the day at times if you order the potato salad with sausage you’ll be disappointed as it is just a spin on the traditional German salad the pears with pickles and yogurt was a refreshing end to the meal The best part of L’Artesana is how they treat their products: with respect Although they care about their food and respect the quality of its content the restaurant itself is not worth a visit to the Poblenou restaurant itself we suggest stopping by after a day of activities in the area You'll find La Picantería in C/ Marià Aguiló and it connotes homes that are open for people to stop in and ask for something to eat In Barcelona it's a restaurant with lovely natural surroundings: a bit of white with little tables and a good bar Japanese and Mexican cusines – this is not fusion but a happy coexistence of variety the small kitchen and open kitchen is on fire Mainly because it boasts a 'robata' (Japanese grill) where they cook up highly recommended Latino-Catalan set lunch menu you can get fish ceviche (made by the Peruvian chef Adriel García) The à la carte menu (available non-stop from 1pm to 1am) features dishes that surprise in concept and always please for their quantity and great value for money so sharing could be in order for the ceviches nachos and something from the grill with yakitori or 'picanha' beef They're generous with their cocktails as well who's worked in some of the biggest bars in London has come up with her own cocktail menu for the bar Try creations like the terrific Pink Chihuahua pink grapefruit and almond foam – dry and refreshing at the same time All the cocktails are the perfect combo of high quality and low cost Explore our Food Tours → we’ve grown accustomed to the barrage of lists telling us where to travel during the next 12 months Oftentimes these places are a country or even a whole region – you could spend an entire year exploring just one of the locations listed and still barely make a dent for us the neighborhood is the ideal unit of exploration Celebrating neighborhood life and businesses is essential to what we do as Culinary Backstreets we’ve been dedicated to publishing the stories of unsung local culinary heroes and visiting them on our food walks particularly in neighborhoods that are off the beaten path Last January, we declared 2018 as “The Year of the Neighborhood,” and what a fruitful year it was We had our fair share of fresh experiences and were also able to contribute to the economies of neighborhoods otherwise neglected by the tourism industry Tourism is an important economic force in many cities one that’s based on the sound health of all of a city’s neighborhoods we are happy to again focus on neighborhoods off the main tourist trail in 2019 as well as the people and places that keep them going Below is a compilation of the less-visited areas that our correspondents are planning to explore this year: Barcelona: El Clot and Poblenou Northeast of Barcelona’s polished Modernist center and rebuilt Gòtic alleys the Sant Martí district straddles the line between past and future It represents a fascinating spectrum of Barcelona a place charged with tons of real power: some of the most exciting projects in the city like 22@ district sit alongside traditional markets and long-standing modest homes Yet this range is best experienced in two adjacent neighborhoods which has sold bulk wine for over a century a contemporary restaurant specializing in an ambitious menu of small plates intended for sharing Perhaps no place better bridges the past and present in this area than L’Artesana The restaurant’s name pays tribute to an old workers’ cooperative while their contemporary takes on traditional recipes appeal to the 21st-century workers looking for a satisfying and affordable lunch – in some ways Click here to read the full neighborhood guide If you were a graffiti fan and found yourself in Barcelona in the 1990s, then the place to head was El Poblenou. Once a thriving industrial district in the 19th century Poblenou was the ideal canvas for spray-can artists leaving the area littered with abandoned buildings Poblenou reflected the wider malaise of Barcelona Long a cultural centre famed for imagination and innovation – think architect Antoni Gaudí and painters Joan Miró and Pablo Picasso – the capital of Catalonia had fallen on tough times and its beach a rubbish-filled strip lapped by dirty water But Barcelona seized the opportunity of the 1992 Olympics to reinvent itself revamped neighbourhoods, greener parks and a new two-kilometre sand beach opened the city to the Mediterranean Sea The revitalisation made Barcelona a tourist must-visit destination again a neighbourhood buzzing with innovative startups research centres and international businesses and regularly touted as a textbook example of urban Much of Barcelona’s renaissance has been built on IoT (internet of things) systems Barcelona turned to technology to spark an economic recovery the city deployed responsive technologies across public transport street lighting and waste management systems as part of a Smart City Barcelona plan For example, transitioning to a more energy-efficient LED lighting system led to cost savings. Sensors in the lampposts also identify when pedestrians are near and dim automatically if streets are empty to save energy further. More, the lampposts form part of a Wi-Fi network providing consistent, city-wide free internet access and are integrated into Sentilo a system of 19,500 smart meter sensors that receive data on weather, pollution and noise humidity and soil moisture in city gardens gardeners remotely program the irrigation needed and deliver it via electro-valves This has resulted in savings of approximately $555,000 per year Barcelona embedded sensors in the asphalt that identify whether a parking bay is occupied Drivers are guided to spaces via ApparkB an app that allows online payment for parking This has reduced congestion and emissions. But the innovations continue Smart pneumatic waste bins reduce odours interactive bus stops connect to the Wi-Fi network offer USB charging stations and updates on bus locations … and there is much Professor of the Department of Information and Communication Technologies at Pompeu Fabra University $230 million was earmarked to foster the Barcelona technology industry Twenty-two acres of Poblenou were to be recast as an innovation district The new name said it all. Whereas the previous zoning was 22a (industrial) the new vision was 22@ – a testing ground for the digital world Visit the district today and any fresh graffiti you see is probably commissioned from a renowned local artist such as El Pez or Sixeart by one of the design media and scientific research companies that now call 22@ home The triangle formed between the oceanfront Diagonal Street and Ciutadella Park is a hotbed of innovation Five universities and academic institutions have a presence “In the 22@ district, you’re immersed in an ecosystem of innovation and entrepreneurship. And you constantly have the feeling that you are part of it,” says Enric Peig, Professor of the Department of Information and Communication Technologies at Pompeu Fabra University “This means all your activities are imbued with this way of working you have the neighbourhood life integrated and this I think is a distinguishing feature.” Famous firms present include Amazon, HP, T-Systems, Ricoh, Schneider Electric, and VICE Media. Sergio Ruiz, CEO of the Signaturit Group says the decision to open in Poblenou was easy “You can really breathe innovation and technology here,” he explains “22@ is a hub that allows us to connect with other technology companies and promote innovation This allows the development of new opportunities in our business It is the ideal ecosystem for synergies.” Other companies have grown up in the area. Typeform, a Spanish online form-building company, was founded in 2012. Typeform now employees 300 people and has a worldwide client base One key to the success of 22@ has been the Barcelona Urban Lab a government department that fast-tracks the use of public space for companies to test pilot products and services The lab was one of the first of its kind and many innovations rolled out throughout Barcelona were first tried in Poblenou One successful company is Urbiotica, which first experimented with sensors for waste management, installing them in bins along 22@ streets to measure levels in public bins and make waste collection more efficient. Worldsensing is another that has gone on to conquer the world. It piloted Fastprk Barcelona ultimately opted for its own ApparkB app but Worldsensing IoT technology is now used across the construction rail and structural health industries. Barcelona’s Office for Economic Growth says 90% of startups have developed a business based on their pilot project It is estimated that 4500 new companies have come to Poblenou since 2000 and 31% are technology or knowledge-based companies some 56,000 tech talents had been attracted to the area and an estimated 150,000 jobs were created But Poblenou is far from a business district where lights go out at night Redevelopment was not to run slipshod over existing residents the intention was to make 22@ appealing to live in This included developing 4000 units of subsidised housing remaking streets and providing facilities for the public such as schools and community centres the support of the real estate sector was critical tech-savvy workers and other creatives were to be attracted there were 139 plans submitted for urban redevelopment, 84 from the private sector 22@ is one of the largest and most successful urban regeneration projects in Europe and a template that many other smart cities have followed Poblenou is far from a business district where lights go out at night Redevelopment was not to run slipshod over existing residents the intention was to make 22@ appealing to live in “What caught our eye was not just the basic economics and demographics It was also that people want to live there that the universities are expanding and because 22@ is increasingly regarded as a ‘smart city’,” says Eduardo de Roda “We wanted to be part of that as Barcelona moves to the next level.” PATRIZIA focuses on innovation technology in the real estate industry PATRIZIA has invested in five office and residential buildings Two are redevelopments of old industrial space and the goal is to create sustainable buildings reflecting the changing local environment “Although 22@ is one of the largest urban regeneration areas in Europe there is still a major shortage of Grade A office stock We aim to address that demand,” says de Roda Walk the streets of Poblenou and you find a lively area half bohemian and half cybernetic in character. The La Rambla del Poblenou the promenade that cuts through the district to the sea has been revitalised with restaurants dance companies and designer showrooms burnish the reputation of Poblenou as Barcelona’s cool new barrio We aim to address that demand,” says de Roda. Leyre Soto moved to 22@ after an offer from a software development company It’s a very dynamic and emerging neighbourhood I often feel like taking out my camera to snap pictures of its evolution.” enjoy the after-work get-togethers – where employees from different companies intermingle – and savour the architecture. “There’s no neighbourhood in all of Barcelona that blends classic architecture with contemporary and adapted technological buildings I love the coexistence between the traditional and modern.” Modernista constructions like the tubular Torre Glòries and the Design Museum of Barcelona loom large but there has been considerable effort to preserve the heritage. Cisco invested $30 million in developing a Co-Innovation Center in a former textile factory focused on the Internet of Everything (IoE) An artistic colony occupies Palo Alto and the Pompeu Fabra University’s Communication Campus and the Fundació Vila Casa Museum are housed in renovated textile factories Ruiz says Signaturit is considering moving offices but will remain within 22@ “I have had offers closer to Barcelona centre at lower rents but have discarded them,” he says “Our presence here helps attract talent Employees look forward to living here. The weather the comfort and the proximity to the sea all make 22@ a great place to work.” Few cities wear the Smart City label as proudly as Barcelona But Barcelona is not resting on its success November 2020 marked the 20th anniversary of the 22@ project and provided an opportunity to reassess its direction The council is looking to opening the district to green companies More space is earmarked for rental housing there should be around 15,800 residential apartments “It is the mix of uses that we like about 22@,” explains de Roda “How the office and living spaces are revitalising the quarter to create a new That’s the attraction for the creative classes and will ensure they will continue to be drawn to the area.” Image credits: istock - Overview Poblenou (anekoho) Poblenou Ramblas (venakr) Drummers (MarcoZouvek) vaulted ceiling creates an engaging statement whilst the original brickwork has been left partially exposed; this adds texture whilst reaffirming the connection between the apartment and its historically industrial setting You'll now receive updates based on what you follow Personalize your stream and start following your favorite authors If you have done all of this and still can't find the email Marc Cuenca was the kind of kid who was interested in what other people were eating and this curiosity was the seed of his own restaurant Els Tres Porquets (“Three Little Pigs”) A small enoteca and tapas bar with just a few tables an area that brings to the restaurant a combination of locals office workers and Spaniards and foreigners employed by startups and other businesses in the 22@ innovation district While these days the city – and indeed many cities around the world – is teeming with restaurants specializing in an ambitious menu of small plates intended for sharing the concept was still quite new when the “three little pigs” arrived in the city Cuenca is the son of Can Pineda’s Paco Cuenca He studied telecommunication engineering and audiovisuals but after the financial crisis he decided to cast his net wider He worked with his father at Can Pineda for a while until he saw an opportunity to open a restaurant with his current partner using all the experience of the family in a world he had known since his childhood just the right quantity for the next day (the Palamós prawns are not to be missed!) Els Tres Porquets prefers not to store its produce in order to maintain maximum freshness; instead the chefs buy more that day if they need it The menu on the blackboard is composed of a long list of small plates to taste with beer the house vermut or more than 400 wines – a comprehensive cellar with Spanish and international wines of all kinds and prices Some of the dishes are sacred cows that never change such as the deeply savory seasonal mushrooms with foie gras that we recently tasted with boletus It comes with a fried duck egg that is broken and mixed with the dish and is especially great for dipping bread into Then there’s the “Alambre,” a version of the Mexican classic that combines super-tender beef with a vegetable sanfaina (a kind of Catalan ratatouille) Emmental cheese and coriander and cumin olive oil – a particularly exotic touch for Spanish tastes Don’t miss the sardine coca (a savory coca is similar to a small pizza) fragile layers of mille-feuille with marinated sardine crunchy on the outside and tender on the inside which is served with potato cream and onion- and sweet paprika-infused olive oil We like taking our time and grazing at Els Tres Porquets the partners have recently opened a new bar nearby called La Caputxeta which specializes in excellent gourmet sandwiches [Editor’s note: We regret to report that La Caputxeta has closed.] Here’s what it learned from the first ones.What really mattersIn a world with too much noise and too little context We don’t flood you with panic-inducing headlines or race to be first We focus on being useful to you — breaking down the news in ways that inform We rely on readers like you to fund our journalism Will you support our work and become a Vox Member today “It was amazing when they stopped the cars.” by David Roberts Inside the superblock in the Poblenou neighborhood in the middle of what used to be an intersection with a set of about a dozen picnic tables next to it neighbors sit and sip drinks to the sound of children’s shouts and laughter and the warm air smells of wild grasses growing in the fresh plantings nearby “It was amazing when they stopped the cars,” says Norma Nebot looking at me wide-eyed over a can of beer She’s lived in Poblenou for six years an environmental scientist and bike activist She’s lived in Poblenou all her life and moved to the area that later became a superblock seven years ago this was like a ghost town; there was no life,” she says the Poblenou superblock is Barcelona’s fourth But it was the first built as part of the city’s new urban plan — the first of what are intended to be dozens It is not as polished as the superblock around the Sant Antoni market with construction fencing up in several spots and rows of potted trees giving it a homemade it is a better representation of the changes that Barcelona’s urban plan will spur in the city in the process of being shaped by residents to their needs It is this sort of small-d democratic placemaking that the superblocks plan is meant to encourage But the Poblenou superblock has also drawn considerable attention and controversy. (I did a story on it in 2016, one of many stories in the English-language press at the time, and Vox followed that up with a video.) The story of the Poblenou superblock casts light on what it takes to push and cajole Barcelona’s urban reforms around the initial resistance to loss of vehicle space But putting Poblenou in proper context requires a brief history of the superblock program Salvador Rueda, Barcelona’s resident urban visionary and head of the Urban Ecology Agency of Barcelona when he designed a study of the noise in Barcelona He wanted to see what it would take to get it down to the internationally recommended level of around 65 decibels The results were stark: On a through street with speed limits above 20 kilometers per hour or so Cars driving that fast are simply too loud residents of the city must be liberated from automobile through traffic (Neighborhood “through traffic” is distinct from automobile trips that terminate in the neighborhood That is when Rueda first began envisioning superblocks The basic idea of a superblock is to delineate a large area of roughly three-by-three blocks as shared-use space and people who simply want to sit at picnic tables in the street given equal priority to cars Nonresident automobile through traffic is excluded It was 1993 before the first superblock was implemented locking through traffic out of the Born neighborhood “I wait for six years,” Rueda says but it quickly gentrified and has now been colonized almost entirely by boutiques and lavish hotels The kinds of shops that provide for the daily needs of middle-class occupants have been pushed out Public spaces are mostly dominated by tourists is a theme park,” Rueda says ruefully “The proportions are not the best.” Superblocks two and three didn’t come around until 2003 They are both in the neighborhood of Gracia There was some initial resistance to the superblock plan in Gracia but it faded quickly; the neighborhood was particularly well-suited to pedestrianization before being swallowed by Barcelona in the 17th century and its narrow streets were already popular with tourists The Gracia superblocks involved physically cutting off some through streets entirely they simply raised the level of the pavement so that it was even with the sidewalks (all means of travel share equal access) A study of Gracia before and after the superblocks found that foot travel in the area increased by 10 percent and bicycle traffic by 30 percent while vehicle traffic declined by 26 percent in interior streets thousands of square meters of new shared public spaces were opened to residents No one ever suggests reintroducing automobile through traffic to Gracia Though it still has a robust middle-class population there has been an enormous increase in tourism which has brought more and more boutiques and real estate speculators The Born and Gracia projects are interesting as examples of traffic calming and pedestrianization — proof that they are popular and enduring — but they are not quite full-fledged superblocks in the way Rueda and the city now envision them the center-right administration of Mayor Xavier Trias set out to develop a comprehensive urban mobility plan for the city the final plan embraced superblocks — and not just a few It adopted Rueda’s plan to implement 500 superblocks across Barcelona devoting almost 70 percent of city streets to mixed use Trias’s was not a radical administration holding a series of neighborhood consultation workshops open to the whole city gradually developing a small list of proposed pilot projects “It was very neat in terms of participatory process,” says Cynthia Echave, technical coordinator at the Urban Ecology Agency of Barcelona everything was upended by the municipal elections which took place during a time of political unrest in Spain The country was still suffering in the wake of an economic crisis that hit the housing market particularly hard displacing thousands of residents and sparking a wave of grassroots activism there was a growing push for Catalan independence (a perpetual subject of conflict in the region) center-right and center-left coalitions fractured Barcelona en Comú (Barcelona Together a coalition of green and leftist parties) won gaining 11 seats on the city council to 10 for the incumbent Catalan nationalist coalition That majority made their leader — a fiery leftist housing activist named Ada Colau who had no previous experience in elected office — the new mayor Colau’s victory was an earthquake in Barcelona politics a sharp swing to the left just when nationalists seemed ascendant She quickly stocked her administration with many of the activists she had worked with in the streets in previous years She inherited the urban mobility plan and began a neighborhood consultation process of her own. Under her administration, the program was more publicized and focused more squarely on public space. The new slogan: Omplim de vida els carrers! Let’s fill the streets with life! the jolt that put the program in the public eye (and almost knocked it off course) came not from the administration Barcelona is home to several schools of architecture and they frequently collaborate on projects and exhibitions they wanted to do a project related to urbanism The project approved by City Hall (initially for one month) was for Poblenou one of the areas the Trias administration had picked for a pilot project — except moved five blocks or so over to a new area (Several people I spoke to assumed the move was made for political reasons so Colau’s administration could have something to call its own.) Some efforts were made to let the neighbors know a superblock was coming Flyers went out in July and the project was done in early September Even the neighbors who read the flyers were not clear whether it was meant to be a temporary pilot project or something permanent but the city didn’t want residents to feel like they lived in a laboratory But it was a little bit confusing and tense.” “There were two rhythms,” says Silvia Casorrán “the one that Salvador Rueda wanted and the rhythm from the municipality As a result of the somewhat rushed and unorthodox process some residents who lived in the neighborhood and many who lived at or near its periphery simply woke one day to find traffic and bus routes routed around a superblock through traffic had been cut off and speed limits radically reduced the architecture students had painted designs on the ground laid some tires down in circles for play areas and brought in numerous potted trees to line the streets It was fast and cheap — no new permanent infrastructure “For the people who were most affected,” says Jordi Campins “it was a complete and utter surprise.” bald bank union manager armed with a sheaf of maps and notes He lives near the periphery and found his driving routines disrupted by the superblock He believes traffic was pushed to the periphery “The benefit is only for that central part” of the superblock “The outside has completely collapsed.” He started a citizens group against the superblock called Association of People Affected by the Poblenou Superblock (Plataforma d’Afectats per la superilla del Poblenou), which lobbied the administration to reverse the superblock, held protests, and drew intense media attention opposition rallied and the continuation of the superblock was in doubt “We didn’t have all of this,” Nebot says so people couldn’t enjoy it at the beginning.” Casorrán jokes that taxicabs kept wandering in by mistake. It even took Google Maps six months to update “At the beginning of the superblock in Poblenou it was a very shy way to use the space,” Echave says Somehow learning to make different kind of uses.” The people against it were making such a big noise.” “It was under attack,” Nebot says very emotional,” Casorrán emphasizes “If some neighbors had not organized in favor of the project The negative stories about the blowback in the media (and on social media) were relentless “It was like a fire in the forest,” says Echave you have people who love it and people who hate it.” “It was the establishment against Colau,” Casorrán says “They made the superblock a symbol for Ada Colau.” But things calmed down around six months in when after intensive consultation with the neighbors the city built a more permanent playground “Picnic tables change everything!” Nebot says You get the superilles and you put some picnic tables in and that’s it “Even though [the Poblenou superblock] only has 1,800 people living there with a lot of young families with little kids,” says Echave “Once you have a safe space for your kids opposition has died down and many who were initially opposed have come around “It’s very difficult to find people against now,” says Nebot The group formed to support the superblock has become a neighborhood association The Poblenou superblock has not become a perfect urbanism postcard Swaths of the interior are still under development with construction fencing at regular intervals and the potted trees still give the whole affair a temporary feeling A few of the streets are now empty of cars but also this area of Poblenou was not struggling with a traffic problem the nine-block area contains the population density of a single block of the Eixample That’s why some critics were confused about the decision to slate this area for a superblock “It was completely an ideological project,” says Campins “They didn’t come here to solve anything.” His group is now filing a lawsuit hoping to have a judge overturn the superblock — though he now admits he would prefer simply to make a few changes to the project rather than reverse it entirely Campins is correct about the ideological character of Poblenou It very much reflects Rueda’s vision which is coming to life through the urban plan “The intention is for the superblocks to someday become the system the whole city is organized around,” says Ton Salvadó, the city’s chief architect. “It is the most radically democratic transformation of the city since the Eixample of Cerda in the 19th century.” the superblock in Poblenou now seems rooted and irreversible As for the residents who enjoy a surfeit of shared spaces “I’ve heard a lot of neighbors say it’s like we’ve won the lottery.” The city is learning as it goes. As it accelerates, implementing the next five superblocks it’s seeking to take what it has learned and apply those lessons to the task ahead Much of that work will fall on the shoulders of Janet Sanz as Barcelona’s deputy mayor for ecology She served on city council from 2011 to 2015 before joining Colau’s administration part of a wave of young leftists shaking up city government and rapid-patter Catalan that left my translator sweating the key lesson of Poblenou has to do with the necessary balance of “tactical urbanism” and “structural urbanism.” things like changing the direction of a one-way street things like changing the level of pavement or installing a playground The great advantage of tactical urbanism is that it can produce relatively large changes in behavior with relatively minimal investment of time and money it was used as a kind of low-level shock therapy Poblenou residents were not asked if they wanted a bunch of new public space; they were confronted with it and asked what they’d like to make of it no one who gains public space ever asks to be rid of it But tactical urbanism also stirred up early resistance when there were only fast and cheap changes and no concrete promise of anything else the loss of driving privileges was fresh and the potential of the superblock was unclear the administration began a closer consultation process with neighbors that resulted in more structural changes including a larger playground and the beloved picnic tables which together ran the city roughly €50,000 in response to criticism and to some residents’ chagrin restored one north-to-south through street.) The more collaborative process and the more permanent-feeling changes it is producing “We are thankful to Salvador Rueda because [otherwise] maybe we would be still in participatory processes,” Casorrán says people can evaluate it only when they see it.” Structural urbanism “is associated with importance,” Sanz says “The more money you spend on a place .. the better the transformation is viewed.” But she warns against moving from tactical to structural too quickly before the community has figured out what it wants if you spend a lot of money” on a permanent structural change Rueda is also keen for spaces to remain somewhat undefined at first “It’s about spontaneity and self-organization empathy and relationships between people,” he says but you need to create the space.” Building the more permanent features needs to be done “slowly in my opinion,” he says When he first came to visit the Poblenou superblock and saw the neighbors gathering to enjoy the space and discuss its future even almost crying,” Casorrán says in ways both intentional and unintentional It demonstrated that no change in urban space is truly safe from public backlash until permanent structural changes have been made that benefit affected residents But it also showed that with a little courage the process of transforming urban space can be accelerated It can work better to present the changes as a fait accompli and allow residents to shape rather than reject them It just requires faith — faith that well-designed public spaces Now the city will take its hard-earned experience and spread superblocks more widely we brought everything we learned” in Poblenou “it should have been a more hostile area,” he says the implementation process was almost unanimously accepted.” Barcelona residents can see the superblocks now; they can witness a patchwork of pedestrian areas forming They can visit the Sant Antoni market or have lunch on the Plaça de la Revolució in Gracia They can walk through the Poblenou superblock a wide pedestrian avenue that runs the length of the neighborhood They can begin to envision what their own neighborhoods might look like with fewer cars “the model is already in demand.” At a recent festival in the Sarrià neighborhood residents sang city officials a song: “We want a superblock!” moving from consultation to implementation including in Horta on the northeast side and Les Cortes to the southwest And there are 10 more in some stage of planning the process shifted to a somewhat more deliberate and participatory model “There won’t be any surprises,” Sanz says Residents who receive new superblocks “will feel like it’s theirs from the first moment because they co-designed it alongside City Hall.” As to whether all these repurposed streets will immediately be filled with life It is cars that should be asked to justify their priority in shared spaces “Who does the city belong to?” she asks “The superblock project aims to recapture what was always ours.” The priority now is to maintain steady progress Sanz hopes it will take roughly a year and a half from the beginning of neighborhood consultation to the beginning of building a superblock “Complicated,” to say the least Even under the most optimistic assumptions Barcelona’s full urban plan will take years to implement and much of its fate lies outside the control of any single administration But the city has a good sense of how to get started — the obstacles that lie ahead in the near term In part three, we will take a look at the primary challenges in expanding superblocks: traffic and gentrification. Read part one of this series. Understand the world with a daily explainer plus the most compelling stories of the day, compiled by news editor Sean Collins. The aggressive push to privatize public lands, explained. A federal program killed nearly 2 million wild animals last year. The reason might surprise you. Els Tres Porquets is a historic restaurant in Poblenou where those who know how to eat great tapas reinterpreted and at a good price. There are hidden places and places that seem to hide. Els 3 Porquets is one of the latter: forgotten at the end of a street, looking like a paco bar and under a childish fable name the place does not reveal that it is, in reality, a bar where those in the know celebrate their important days.. They do it with the confidence of having been in the neighborhood for more than a lifetime. Marc is the son of Can Pineda (literally, it belonged to his father and uncle), a historic bodega in the Clot, just across the Gran Via, almost visible from their respective doorways. Thus, he is not afraid to reapproach the octopus with parmentier, which here finally stops being boring when it is fried, with mashed cassava and paprika oil. Also, of course, the family stews of tripe or meatballs or dishes with history, the prey with 25 ingredintes that already has two decades of life in the letter.15 years of history … In short, that you go booking. Because the 3 porquets is what it has, that hides behind a simple appearance the knowledge of decades. By the way, behind a hidden door also hides this cwith views of its wine cellar, very powerful, where people like Mediapro executives (right next door) celebrate their business dinners. Here you come to get away from it all to concentrate on eating as only pigs (and those who know how) enjoy doing it. it started a process of transformation and regeneration in the late 1990’s Explore some of the best places to drink in the area Courtesy of La Forquilla The minimal interior of La Forquilla Restaurant is designed to not distract customers from tasting the great market cuisine suggested in the menu and the chef Vidal Gravalosa only uses produce of local origin and of the highest quality La Forquilla offers an extensive wine list with more than 50 types of wine from different Spanish regions import PrebidBidService from "/v1/js/PrebidBidService.js"; import AmazonBidService from "/v1/js/AmazonBidService.js"; window.addEventListener('intersecting',async (e) => { const element = document.querySelector('[data-id="in_article_2"]'); const slot = element.getAttribute('id'); if(e.detail.slotName !== slot) { return; } let promises = []; if(window.canRunPrebid) { const prebidService = new PrebidBidService(); promises.push(prebidService.requestPrebidBids(null [slot])); } if(window.canRunAmazon) { const amazonService = new AmazonBidService(); promises.push(amazonService.fetchBids(null [slot])); } if(promises?.length) { await Promise.all(promises).then(() => { googletag.pubads().refresh([window.addSlot[slot]]); }); } else { googletag.pubads().refresh([window.addSlot[slot]]); } }); La Cervecita Sign up to our newsletter to save up to $800 on our unique trips See privacy policy © Oh-Barcelona.com El Traspaso Bar takes influence from French culture and cuisine as two out of the three owners of the bar come from France The interior at Trespaso is quirky and fun,and invites you to explore El Trespaso is always busy with locals is an ideal option for a evening drink before heading out into central Barcelona import PrebidBidService from "/v1/js/PrebidBidService.js"; import AmazonBidService from "/v1/js/AmazonBidService.js"; window.addEventListener('intersecting',async (e) => { const element = document.querySelector('[data-id="in_article_4"]'); const slot = element.getAttribute('id'); if(e.detail.slotName !== slot) { return; } let promises = []; if(window.canRunPrebid) { const prebidService = new PrebidBidService(); promises.push(prebidService.requestPrebidBids(null [slot])); } if(promises?.length) { await Promise.all(promises).then(() => { googletag.pubads().refresh([window.addSlot[slot]]); }); } else { googletag.pubads().refresh([window.addSlot[slot]]); } }); Bharma Bar Bar © Gonzalo Iza/Flickr Fans of the TV series Lostare in for a treat at Bharma The owner of Bharma Bar has paid homage to his favorite show and the interior of this venue was greatly inspired by the series There is an airplane tail built into one of the walls and a secret bunker made from stone leading to the bathroom with metal tables and two bar stands with neon octagonal symbols and visitors can feel like they are being transported into some secret underground bunker Guides & Tips How to Attend a Bullfight in Spain Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in December Architecture Spain’s Most Impressive Bullrings Guides & Tips How to Spend the Perfect 24 Hours in Santander See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in September Food & Drink The 5 Best Food Markets in Madrid See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in October See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Summer Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in November See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Autumn See & Do Top Things to Do Around Las Ramblas See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in July US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000 tripssupport@theculturetrip.com © Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd Certain places, rather than becoming trendy, are a paradigm of the neighbourhood they're in, how the locals drink, what they eat and even how they speak. Espai Joliu used a formula that seemed simple but has managed to touch the soul of Poblenou: a café and plant shop in one. which she refers to as Espai Joliu's evil twin she admits that she wanted to break from everything beautiful about Espai Joliu But don't start thinking Orval is some sort of shrine to the hideous – far from it the word 'orval' in Catalan is a synonym for Datura stramonium (jimson weed) an important ingredient in the ointment that helps witches fly according to European witchcraft you're not slapped in the face with the heady sensation of baroque and shabby sweetness at Joliu Orval also opened 'for the need to create something new' says López: on the second floor there's a ceramic oven where she and her brother make coffee cups and plant pots and Orval's is one of the best in the neighbourhood: they use Nomad coffee for espresso and that of Three Marks Coffee for filtered You'll also find a high-quality breakfast menu and vegan doughnuts from La Donutería on Fridays it's like having breakfast in a gastro market with uninterrupted service from 9am to 7pm From the street it looks like your typical video shop one of those with the automated rental machines But inside it's an ample space that's all about comics In a wasteland for geek pop such as is Poblenou a visit to Mr Brown always perks up a Saturday afternoon The owner has the power to mind meld with his clients finding the exact books that suit everyone's taste and even better: he doesn't make small talk all you have to do is pay in civilised silence before carrying home your newly purchased bundle of joy we decided to stay somewhere we spoke the language and had a nice trip to London instead Our second attempt got derailed when I got pregnant and the doctor decided it was too risky for me to fly I wanted to take our daughter somewhere we’d never been before I wanted to see a cemetery while we were there No question which one it would be: I needed to see the Kiss of Death Mason encourages me to do the thing I most want to do on the first day of our trips so we got up on Day One in Barcelona and figured out the subway but the market at the station couldn’t break a twenty-euro bill and Mason didn’t want to charge three bottles of water An easy stroll through deserted streets dead-ended at the cemetery wall Poblenou Cemetery had been founded in 1775 before being rebuilt and re-consecrated in 1819 We followed the wall around to the cemetery entrance where we picked up a map that directed us to sculpture and architecture inside The map didn’t give much information beyond the sculptor and the year the artwork was made — not even the names of the people buried beneath it — but it did point us in the right direction to explore Towering banks of mausoleum niches filled the initial part of the cemetery I was surprised to see so many people at 11 on a Sunday morning So many flowers adorned the public mausoleums that the cemetery looked like a garden Beyond that lay the historic part of the cemetery Some of the statues and mausoleums were beautifully maintained Others ranged from discolored to crumbling The private mausoleums – called panteons in Barcelona – were all neo-Gothic For all the people bustling around the new part of the cemetery The few who did come back there all seemed to be tourists like us Despite all my worry about the Mediterranean summer heat The vintage part of the graveyard had a surprising amount of wildlife for a place filled with so much bare stone Green parrots living in the palm trees flapped overhead We watched a little lizard run over a monument then hide in the shadow of its silk flowers a mangy orange tomcat scowled at me when I photographed him but a jet-lagged twelve-year-old has her limits I promised we’d visit the monument I’d come to see El Beso de la Muerte stood off in a section of the graveyard on the seaward side Death grasps a young man’s arm and leans over him to give him a peck on the cheek the way the skin floated over the dead man’s body The sculpture was worth waiting 25 years to see Mason and Sorrell decided it was time for lunch but a café across the street offered tapas for Mason and pizza for Sorrell Maybe our trip to Barcelona wasn’t cursed after all relaxing as we watched people and their dogs stroll by which turned out to be little crispy whole fish then glance at the plate of fishes again and start laughing all over The waitress told us that she liked to see such a tender family There’s really nothing like spending your morning looking at grave monuments in a foreign country to highlight the ridiculous brevity of life After a time sharing a kitchen with the family chicken roasting outfit, Artur Martínez explains he’s moved up to sharing space with a 400-room hotel. How did that come about? Martínez wanted to move his El Capritx (which was the smallest Michelin star restaurant in Europe, seating just 12 diners at a time) from Terrassa into Barcelona, and ended up opening Aürt in the Diagonal Mar Hotel which was awarded its first Michelin star in November 2019 if you’re curious: a sudden hit or blow And it seems to describing what Martínez and Aürt have done create a concept that didn’t exist on the local gastronomic scene with one swipe changing definitions with the ironic label of ‘posh street food’ or ‘lobby food’ Integrated into the hotel lobby – you’re practically hit with the restaurant when you walk into the hotel another nod to the name – Aürt is a space that seats 17 guests and one smaller round table for anyone who wants a bit more privacy And all the cooking is done before your eyes as each table or bar area features an induction cooker and the ‘office’ is equipped with a griddle ‘The physical separation with the diner dilutes conversation so you miss out on information.’ Since 2017 the chef has been creating a theory and he started his new stage with what he describes as a continuing of a Capritx tasting menu that’s been made more radical and deeper now that they have done away with logistical limitations Martínez uses the term ‘local exoticism’ to define his cuisine The tasting menu comes in at 14 dishes for at €95 following the apparent obviousness of items such as bonito with vinaigrette or prawn ‘salmorejo’ Martínez and his team put their food in and out of context and reinvent it into comprehensive marvels that open up new worlds for all the senses Another surprise is what’s on offer in the Ma’i lobby where Martínez has reinvented the concept of the hotel bar/restaurant with signature tapas and a drinks menu light-years from the dull and just plain poor execution you often find in hotel bars (even luxury ones) Here local products shine in all areas: ‘If I didn’t prepare my work here as a showcase for local products,’ says Martínez ‘my being here wouldn’t even make sense.’ Peruvian Melina and Irish Daragh met working in a multinational corporation They were living in Poblenou and liked going out a lot They often thought about setting up their own bar Meli gave the green light and they opened Madame George in their own neighbourhood who opted for a flamboyant wallpaper and a teardrop lamp that looks like it was taken out of your rich auntie's living room You'll also find gold-framed mirrors that lean out a bit The room you can reserve for a group features turquoise curtains This is a cocktail bar with a gorgeous selection: their €8 lychee-tini is unforgettable They've got more than 25 varieties of Caribbean rum – star brands are El Abuelo Centenario from Panama and Peru's El Millonario – and rare Irish whiskey like The Wild Geese On Fridays DJs come in to play (like Swiss DJ Gordo who loves 7" tracks and plays northern soul and funk and gets everyone dancing) or there's a drag show with stars like La Mega Pubilla Madame George brings a bit of joy and glamour to the neighbourhood Poblenou Open Day returns to the Barcelona neighborhood of the same name on Saturday, May 6, for its annual celebration of art and culture. This year marks the 11th anniversary of the foundation of Poblenou Urban District, the organizers of the open day, and one of the largest creative communities in Barcelona. From 12 noon until 10pm, members of the public will have the opportunity to discover the area's creative spaces from the inside and get to know the creators working in this former industrial heartland of the Catalan capital, now transformed into one of the city's hippest neighborhoods. One of the open day's hubs will be La Nave WAC Lab Valkiria, Carrer Puigcerdà 77, which will host exhibitions, workshops, and professional talks from the art and design sector. There will also be food and drink, live music and resident and guest DJs. Saturday also marks the eighth edition of the Windows Art Circuit, one of Poblenou Urban District's backbone events, where members of the public can experience first-hand the process of creating murals and street art. It aims to reclaim the streets and bring cultural transformation to disused spaces, such as Carrer Ávila, 75. There, industrial buildings will be turned into an enormous canvas where Aleix Font Arroyo aka Rata Con Corbata will paint 'La Façana' and artists Cane, Plain Jein and 27 lletres will create 'El Lateral'. Around 15 spaces will host exhibitions and art shows, including dance school Alas, which along with The Folio Club, will put on a photography exhibition to mark the school's 20th anniversary. The La Plataforma art gallery will also take part in the open day, as will the Artesi gallery, which will present a talk with Kiseno, a Colombian artist who will exhibit his flagship piece, 'Absence'. Jordi Rufino of Granja Mabel in C/Marina – where they do one of the best set lunch menus in Barcelona – heads up the kitchen at L’Actiu a municipal organisation dedicated to helping boost small businesses and the entrepreneur L'Actiu has stuck with the same formula that transformed Granja Mabel from a small bar with combo plates passed down from their parents into a force to be reckoned with in the area: every day they create a different set lunch menu that's creative and uses simple and carefully prepared ingredients and which also includes something fancy from time to time Don't even dream about eating here without a reservation you can try a gorgeous 'escalivada' (marinated grilled vegetables) with plenty of tuna Other options include a green salad followed by a main dish of bluefin tuna with kimchi sauce; roasted pork ribs with barbeque sauce and chips; or grilled steak fresh from the Boqueria The desserts are good and home-made (like everything there) And all of this for an incredibly fair price All of this is available when you pay the popular menu of the day price you can have lunch in a bit more space than you might find in Mabel and without any pressure to get up and get out the minute you're finished Remember that if you're looking for a place for a group or an event The area has a a fast compelling pace of life Here is a list of best places to explore and eat in El Poblenou © Aguaribay First place in our list goes to this cafe that offers a creative menu for vegetarians and vegans, including gluten-free options. Aguaribay is not restricted to one particular cuisine but is influenced by world gastronomic cultures Francesca and Manuel offer nutritious healthy menus suitable for brunches and lunch breaks Aquaribay is a brand-new concept of a vegetarian cafe including beans with polenta and sage cream Fresh and organic ingredients of excellent quality are used daily A nice selection of artisan and craft beers is available © Timesburg Timesburg has become a modern classic for all the burger lovers in Barcelona The creative burger menu offers three types of bread each of which has a distinctive feature – a stamp of ‘Timesburg’ excellence Customers can customize the ingredients of their burgers in almost endless combinations Timesburg also offers a nice selection of sandwiches with Iberian jam and Nordic sausage made from salmon The interior is very welcoming and features full height windows indoor plants and white furniture which overall create a relaxing and laid-back atmosphere © meineresterampe / Pixabay Considered as the top restaurant specializing in fish and seafood in the district, Els Pescadors is located in renovated fisherman’s tavern and provides a mixture of traditional fish recipes with a contemporary interpretation Els Pescadors welcomes the evolution of cuisine hence their kitchen adapts to these changes The menu offers an extensive range of wines with more than 150 references from local wine cellars and the fine quality of drinks serves as a perfect component to boost the flavors of the seafood with more than 50 types of wine from different Spanish regions Image courtesy of Xiringuito Escribà Xiringuito Escribà is a cozy restaurant located on the seafront, and is run by the Escribà family. The chef makes an excellent paella: one of the best in whole of Barcelona Meticulous dedication of the family members to their job and attention to the needs of their customers Here you can also find different types of rice meals with fresh seasonal ingredients Plan to indulge on a dessert tasting adventure too – the temptation to try the cakes prepared in the family’s home bakery is too high import PrebidBidService from "/v1/js/PrebidBidService.js"; import AmazonBidService from "/v1/js/AmazonBidService.js"; window.addEventListener('intersecting',async (e) => { const element = document.querySelector('[data-id="in_article_5"]'); const slot = element.getAttribute('id'); if(e.detail.slotName !== slot) { return; } let promises = []; if(window.canRunPrebid) { const prebidService = new PrebidBidService(); promises.push(prebidService.requestPrebidBids(null [slot])); } if(promises?.length) { await Promise.all(promises).then(() => { googletag.pubads().refresh([window.addSlot[slot]]); }); } else { googletag.pubads().refresh([window.addSlot[slot]]); } }); If you click on a link in this story All recommendations have been independently sourced by Culture Trip Read Next See & Do Top Things to Do Around Las Ramblas See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in June The xuixo is one of the typical sweets of Catalonia that melts with its thin cylindrical-shaped dough filled with cream, fried and sweetened on the outside. The best in the world is sold at Pastisseria Triomf, located in the Poblenou neighborhood. This pastry shop has won the Concurs Mundial del Xuixo 2024 It is worth mentioning that this establishment has been chosen “for the excellence of its product” The jury unanimously determined that their xuixos have the perfect proportion of cream and oil which prevents them from being oily and also gives them a pleasant texture in the mouth It is important to mention that the local winner takes over from the Juhé pastry shop in l’Escala which won the award in the previous contest the jury highlighted not only the quality of its cream which generated a magnificent flavor and presented a beautiful appearance This dessert had its origins in Girona during the 1920s when a skilled French pastry chef shared his knowledge with Emili Puig teaching him how to make a delicious cake known as chou à la crème This inspiration gave life to the xuixo gerundense this sweet became increasingly popular in Catalonia even reaching some pastry shops in other parts of Spain Although the original recipe includes a delicious cream inside there are also variations such as xuixos filled with chocolate or dulce de leche although these versions are less accepted by purists had the opportunity to talk to Gisela Bellart who represents the third generation of pastry chefs in the pastry shop in the Poblenou neighborhood She shared the secrets behind her renowned xuixo de crema pastelera the freshness of the ingredients and the precision in the frying process are key elements to achieve a quality xuixo He also emphasizes that the recipe has been passed down from generation to generation always maintaining a standard of quality and dedication in the preparation of each piece Pastisseria Triomf stands out as an important point of reference in the local community offering a wide variety of traditional pastry products Its recent victory in the Concurs Mundial del Xuixo has reaffirmed Poblenou’s position as a must-visit destination for lovers of Catalan pastries The xuixos of Pastisseria Triomf are a perfect amalgam of tradition and excellence making them a true culinary treasure of Catalonia Still haven’t tried the best xuixos in the world bars and shops on Barcelona’s promenades and boulevards made for walking you can also get a glimpse into the neighbourhoods whose diversity colour and soul are personified by a pavement © La InformalGet the Raval’s best burger at this bar covered in fairy lights. Distressed floors, chandeliers and decorative bikes make the perfect atmosphere for innovative eats. Home-made chips, great service and a killer dessert menu make this joint a true gem. For a more upscale tapas experience, the wood-panelled Suculent is another stop on the Rambla del Raval. It’s a little pricey, but their oxtail is one of a kind. © BarRavalApart from their extensive cocktail list BarRaval has a stellar selection of pastries Perfect for a good breakfast filled with plenty of coffee and friendly staff you'll want to relax with your order on their lovely terrace © Kfir TitoWhile the tantalising smell of this dimly lit 'cerveseria' may get you in the door, the giant chandeliers, flower arrangements and air of peaceful elegance will make you stay awhile. The place is run like a ship deck and their tapas are a force to be reckoned with. Trust us, it’s worth the wait. but make sure to try one of the hot dogs they’ve been cooking up since 1974 Exposed brick walls and fairy lights make this authentic Catalan restaurant perfect for a romantic evening their fresh cheeses on display in the bar area Make sure to book a table in advance because this place fills up