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Historic Cádiz offers a calmer gateway to Andalucía
Known as Gadir when it was founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BCE, the Andalusian city of Cádiz is Europe’s oldest continuously inhabited settlement
as well as being Spain’s most appealing port city
Three millennia of history have left an indelible mark on its ancient center
which is surrounded almost entirely by water and was once a separate island.
but the city is still rich in historic sights and graceful
The labyrinthine streets of this ancient city reverberate with the sounds of revelry from its tapas bars
while Atlantic waves crash against the sea walls.
Home to Spain’s biggest Carnaval, Cádiz is also the most understated of all Andalucía’s cities. Less touristy and crowded than its busy siblings, Málaga and Seville
this charming gateway city offers a genuinely laid-back Andalucian experience.
from the long sandy beaches to the south to the narrow
Immerse yourself in characterful barrios (neighborhoods)
and old-school tapas bars packed to the gills with garrulous gaditanos (Cádiz residents).
Whether you’re visiting for history and gastronomic delights or using the city as a springboard to the white towns of Andalucía
here are 13 of the best things to do in Cádiz.
The old town in Cádiz is split into a series of distinct barrios – historic neighborhoods that date back centuries
One of the best ways to get to know the city is to spend a day or two wandering these atmospheric districts on foot
absorbing their distinctive architecture and unique personalities.
The oldest barrio is Barrio del Pópulo, home to the yellow-domed, baroque-meets-neoclassical Catedral de Cádiz
don’t miss the intricately carved wooden choir and the tomb of renowned 20th-century composer Manuel de Falla (1876–1946) in the crypt
Climb the bell tower for 360-degree views of the old city.
The area around Barrio de San Juan is the city’s main shopping district and it stands in the shadow of Cádiz’s loftiest watchtower
Sitting between Barrio de San Juan and the sea is Barrio de la Viña
bisected by lively Calle Virgen de la Palma
the epicenter of the city’s Carnaval celebrations and the setting for some of the city’s best tapas bars.
Also worth exploring is the 18th-century Barrio del Mentidero, which encompasses the Gran Teatro Falla
and the beautifully landscaped Parque Genovés and Jardines de la Alameda
Planning tip: To avoid getting snarled in the narrow one-way lanes of the historic center
leave your car in one of the car parks off Avenida del Puerto
bus station and ferry terminal are within easy walking distance of the old town
If you’re in Cádiz between February 16 and February 26
don your best costume and join the gaditanos for Andalucía’s biggest
fireworks and more than 300 murgas (bands)
The Cádiz Carnaval dates back to the 15th century
when the tradition of costumed revelry was imported by homesick Genoese merchants.
sketches and satirical compositions during the Erizada (Sea Urchin Party) and Ostionada (Oyster Party)
held on the two weekends preceding Carnaval
before being judged by a panel at the Gran Teatro Falla during the main event
Catch the murgas in action around the working-class Barrio de la Viña
and between the Mercado Central de Abastos and Playa de la Caleta.
swing by the Centro de Interpretación del Carnaval on Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro to view the outlandish costumes and learn about every aspect of this spectacular celebration
Planning tip: If you’re visiting Cádiz during Carnaval
or stay in El Puerto de Santa María or Seville instead and catch ferries or trains to Cádiz to take in the celebrations.
Off Plaza de la Mina, the excellent Museo de Cádiz has a particularly strong archaeology section
with unique Phoenician marble sarcophagi carved with human likenesses – the only examples of their kind found in the western Mediterranean.
Also notable are the bronze figurines from the Phoenician shrine to the god Melkart on the island of Sancti Petri. Roman finds include a 2nd-century marble statue of Emperor Trajan from Bolonia’s Baelo Claudia
a reconstructed shipwreck with scattered amphorae
funereal offerings and phallic fertility amulets.
Planning tip: Don’t limit yourself to the ancient history downstairs
The museum’s upper floors showcase fine art from the 16th to 20th centuries as well as a collection of contemporary works.
To taste the best of Cádiz, go where the locals go. After feasting on some superlative tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters) at El Faro de Cádiz, elbow your way into nearby Casa Manteca and order the chicharrones (pork scratchings) or payoyo cheese with asparagus marmalade.
Next, pay a visit to La Tabernita, a popular, family-run haunt along Barrio de la Viña’s liveliest street, where you can chow down on cazón al coñac (dogfish in brandy) or cuttlefish ink “meatballs.” Continue to rustic-industrial La Candela in Barrio de San Juan
and see inspired Andalucian-Asian fusion tapas dishes sail your way from the open kitchen
Local seafood, especially tuna, should be at the top of your must-try list. Join the locals for tuna tartare at La Tapería de Columela or sample Basque-Analusian fusion dishes, including bacalao (salted cod) and dishes made with Almadraba tuna at Atxuri.
Along with Jerez de la Frontera and Seville, Cádiz is one of the crucibles of flamenco culture. Set romantically next to the crashing Atlantic surf in Barrio de Santa María, cavernous Peña Flamenca La Perla captures the spirit of authentic flamenco in its prime
mournful songs and intense guitar accompaniment welcome in the house dancers
who leave audiences spellbound with their footwork.
By contrast, La Cava – Cádiz’s main tablao (choreographed flamenco show) – is a more touristy affair
but patrons are drawn by its intimate taverna-style setting.
Detour: Combine two staples of Cádiz – flamenco and sherry – at Tabanco El Pasaje, the town’s oldest tabanco (sherry bar). Patrons can enjoy twice-daily flamenco sessions accompanied by old-school tapas and excellent sherries. Consult the Centro Andaluz de Flamenco library for more information on all things flamenco in Jerez
especially during the Festival de Jerez from late February to early March.
Part of an 18th-century merchant’s residence, Torre Tavira is the tallest of Cádiz’s remaining watchtowers
constructed during the 16th and 17th centuries to protect the city from pirates
and allow merchants to see which ships were pulling into the port
Around 100 of the city’s original 160 watchtowers still rise above the streets of the old town
Torre Tavira is home to the "magic mirror" – Spain’s first camera obscura
This ingenious device uses a mirror and two lenses to project live images onto a round concave screen in the darkened room below
A pulley system allows viewers to zoom in on different parts of the Old Town.
Don’t forget to take in the views from the rooftop terrace
you can spy on unsuspecting pedestrians and watch birds fly above the city’s watchtowers
while your guide points out the principal landmarks and gives you an entertaining history of Cádiz
hidden beneath the La Tía Norica puppet theater and accessed on free 40-minute daily tours
the Yacimiento Arqueológico Gadir site includes both Phoenician and Roman remains.
Watch a CSI-style video discussing the skeleton of a Phoenician man who died in a fire in 600 BCE
then follow a transparent walkway above atmospherically lit cobblestone streets and the remains of mud-and-clay houses
complete with North African-style ovens and Roman-era vats used for producing garum (fermented fish)
Detour: For more recent history, view puppets of the kind used in La Tia Norica in the 18th and 19th centuries at the Museo del Títere
a small museum inside the Puerta de Tierra that highlights local and international puppetry traditions
Cádiz is dotted with reminders of its 3000-year history, including ancient archaeological sites where visitors can step back a millennia or two. Cádiz’s Teatro Romano dates from the late 1st century BCE and it once hosted audiences of 10,000 spectators
making it the second-largest theater on the Iberian Peninsula.
Hidden beneath a Moorish castle for centuries
you can examine the artifacts unearthed during excavations
then proceed through the vomitorium (a gallery beneath the seating area) to see the partially restored theater seats.
spectators during Roman times would have found themselves gazing at a grand stage flanked by statues of the gods
rather than apartment buildings in need of a coat of paint
In the heart of Spain’s oldest city, you’ll find the country’s oldest covered market, Mercado Central de Abastos
fruit and vegetables from its stalls since 1838.
This popular market also serves as a casual dining hub where visitors and locals can savor traditional and creative tapas, local sherry and other epicurean delights. Just around the corner from the market, Plaza de Topete (Plaza de las Flores) is a green and intimate space where you can sample your gastronomic finds.
historic Calle Ancha is the city’s main shopping street
traditional vendors and quirky boutiques lining this thoroughfare
set inside stately buildings from the 18th and 19th centuries
Notable landmarks on Calle Ancha include the former home of musician Manuel de Falla at number 19 and the Casa Palacio de Moreno de Mora (Palace of Mora)
a flamboyant 19th-century residence at numbers 28 and 30.
Planning tip: Entry to the Palace of Mora is only possible on Wednesday mornings by appointment (email casapalaciodemora@gmail.com) and the interior is closed from July to August.
Much like the busy plazas that connect the city’s thoroughfares
There are dozens of coffee shops and espresso bars dotted around the city where you can swing by for a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) or cortado (espresso with a splash of steamed milk).
Planning tip: For a more elaborate breakfast, book a table at Café Royalty
this Cádiz institution features a gorgeous mirrored and frescoed interior
It’s easy to see why Cádiz is touted as one of the most beautiful cities in southern Spain
especially when you stroll through its verdant parks and gardens
A tranquil escape in the historic center of Cádiz
Parque Genovés is the largest green space in the city
and a great spot to relax away from the bustle.
you can wander past plants and flowers from around the world
and admire bubbling fountains and monuments commemorating local botanists
creatives and prominent public figures.
The most popular spot is the manmade lake known as La Gruta (“The Cave”)
with a waterfall and playful ducks to entertain younger visitors
Look out for the statue of children under an umbrella
inspired by a renowned novel by Jacques-Henri Bernardin de Saint-Pierre.
hundred-year-old fig trees in the jardines (gardens) along the Alameda Apodaca promenade and near Playa de la Caleta.
La Caleta is one of the best places to spend a day relaxing in the sun in Cádiz
Moorish-style balneario (bathhouse) from 1926 provides restrooms and changing facilities
the natural harbor keeps the water calm for swimming and the wide beach is a prime spot to soak up the rays or catch a glorious sunset.
natural retreat) and Playa de Zahara (for active family fun and water sports)
family-run sherry producer founded in 1838
Tours run Monday to Saturday and end with a six-wine tasting
Founded in 1772, El Puerto’s best-known sherry maker, Bodegas Osborne
offers daily tours of its expansive facilities
finishing with a four-wine degustation (book ahead)
The superb gift shop stocks the sherry maker’s full range
On the far side of town, 1830s-founded Bodegas Caballero offers two-hour tours from Thursday to Saturday, taking in the “wine cathedral” and the 13th-century Castillo de San Marcos near the waterfront
the Lustau vermouth and the Ponce Caballero liqueur.
North of town, off the A-2078, Bodega de Forlong specializes in organically produced wines from Palomino
Moscatel and Tintilla Roja grapes – the latter are native to the region
Guided 90-minute tours on Saturdays culminate with a three-wine degustation.
Planning tip: Ferries from Cádiz to El Puerto de Santa María run every few hours
taking 30 minutes to complete the crossing
This article was adapted from the Andalucía guidebook published in February 2025.
Food Styling by Nadine PageDominique Crenn recently visited the Bon Appétit test kitchen to show us the most challenging recipe she’s ever created
She executed complicated techniques with liquid nitrogen that were all the rage a decade ago
until she found Bay Area suppliers who shared her values around kinder environmental practices
Her vision for a sustainable organic food system is coming to fruition through the bounty of her Bleu Belle farm and being shared with diners through her restaurant menus
It can take years of patience for everyday audiences to experience the impact of food science
and even longer for companies and distributors to catch up
That’s why in our March issue we wanted to explore innovation in the culinary industry
Contributor Ali Bouzari makes the case that we are living in the future of food. We are already experiencing the impact of satellite imagery to reduce overuse of crop fertilization, leading to better produce on grocery store shelves and kitchens. In dining, some restaurants are already using AI and other personalization and machine learning to help manage a busy service and book those elusive reservations.
Technology also helps bridge the past and present, cooking techniques and culture. Our editors have fallen back in love with steaming, and in South Carolina, culinary entrepreneurs are preserving traditional foodways.
As the arc of food innovation bends toward more people benefiting from research and creativity, it will be exciting to see how the way we eat evolves alongside those changes.
The chef-explorer of Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María, Spain, reconsiders how all of a fish can be incorporated into a tasting menu.
The high schooler was recently honored by the National Geographic Society for her work to restore the oyster population in Mississippi.
The Australian chef specializes in reimagined fish flavors, including a chocolate cake that began as a paste made from fish bones.
The project by Estudio ACTA aims to restore to the Guadalete Riverbank
in its section in El Puerto de Santa Maria
the identity that has been ignored in the last century
serving as a backyard for the city due to its chaotic organization
The proposal to reform the riverbank seeks to resolve through tools that turn it into a driving and dynamic enclave of culture and economy
based on the historical and cultural values of El Puerto
designing a proposal that takes as its main theme the memory of water in the city
The project by Estudio Acta is configured as a curved unitary piece like an extensive dock
evoking those that historically populated the Guadalete in this area
to which are added a series of conditions of functionality
accessibility and visual permeability that integrate
The intervention of the River Walk proposes the elimination of all physical barriers and the distribution of different new uses for the area as a whole to give rise to an open and neutral area where the main focus falls on the river and its integration with key elements in the course of the river such as the historic Calderón park and the San Alejandro Bridge
Renovation of the Guadalete riverside promenade by Estudio ACTA
Project description by Estudio Acta
the banks of the Guadalete River as it passes through El Puerto have been the city's backyard
oblivion or urgent need have been chaotically resolved
The sustainable management that characterises our fight against climate change has come to change this situation
arriving at the time to reconcile the city with its river and go even a step further
to convert these places into active spaces
generators of ecologies in the broadest sense of the word
This project aims to restore the identity of the Guadalete Riverbank
using the keys of the contemporary landscape project to turn it into an attractor and dynamiser of the social
Along with these historical and cultural values
a proposal has been designed that takes as its main theme the memory of water in the city
each with the historical characteristics of the urban framework to which it belongs
an urban operation that in 1895 converted an old unhealthy area into a promenade and generated the current edge of the unloading dock for goods
The remains of the stone abutment that supported the metal San Alejandro Bridge stand out here
currently mutilated and emptied inside to accommodate a tortuous ramp that allows access to a tiny elevated platform
the project proposes the elimination of all physical barriers and the redistribution of uses for this area
creating an open and neutral area where the focus falls on the river and its integration with the design of the historic Parque Calderón
Once the barriers have been removed and the valuable materials of the site have been recycled
the integration is entrusted to two strategic elements: a viewing ramp that connects the promenade with the abutment of the San Alejandro Bridge and the long concrete benches that resolve the transition with the historic promenade
The proposal for the viewing ramp of the bridge aims to improve the conditions of functionality
respecting the values of the historical remains of the abutment and integrating them into a contemporary urban piece
a large urban piece of furniture built in wood that generates a continuous plane of almost 150 m
in length that rises slightly following the cliff to the top of the abutment
evoking those that historically populated the Guadalete in this area and giving an attractive image to the city from the other side
Estudio ACTA.
Tecnicas Gades.Construction Management.- Manuel Reguera Delgado.Project and Renderings.- Luis M
Competition.- October 2021.Project date.- March 2022.Start date.- March 2023.End date.- January 2024
EGOIN.- Wooden viewing platform.BREINCO.- Flooring.URBIDERMIS.- Lighting and furniture.KUMA.- Concrete benches.SEBASTIAN DE ALBA.- Locksmith.SOLUM.- Photovoltaic system for recharging scooters
Fernando Alda.
Archive Urbanism-Landscape
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The man's corpse was mixed up with that of a woman after he died while on a family trip to Cadiz ·
A woman from Malaga has been left deeply upset after her dead father was mistakenly cremated by another family
Antonio González García died last of a heart attack during a family trip to Cadiz
as he had always expressed to his daughters
was to be buried next to his mother in Rincón de la Victoria cemetery on the eastern Costa del Sol
in addition to the pain of suddenly losing their 62-year-old father
they have now been left deeply unhappy after he was cremated by mistake when his corpse was confused with that of a woman
Malaga motorbike rider Julio García competed at the World Superbike Championship in Jerez de la Frontera with many of his family members coming to support him from the grandstand
Among them was his uncle Antonio González and his youngest daughter
"We stayed in different hotels in the area except for my father
who stayed with a cousin who lives in El Puerto de Santa Maria," said Alba
they all got together for dinner and a drink at his cousin's house
The last photo they took together is the one shown in this article
where the family can be seen gathered around some pizzas
"I went to the hotel and I left my father there
she received a phone call from her cousin telling her to come back to the house urgently
Despite signs of Antonio dying from a heart attack
an emergency doctor who attended the home could not certify that was the cause of death
even though Antonio was a cardiac patient and had two coronary stents inserted two years ago
so the case was brought to court with a forensic doctor to carry out an autopsy
"We would have avoided all this if they had certified him there
the autopsy would not have been necessary," Alba said
Alba then started making preparations with a funeral home
with two employees attending her home to meet her and talk about the service
She told them the most important part was to fulfil her father's wish to be buried
"He wanted to be with his mother in Rincón and for us to bring him flowers
they called me from the Cadiz court and asked me if I had a funeral parlour
that my father was there and that nobody had picked him up," Alba added
She did not hear from them again until Monday when she said the director of the IML institute of legal medicine in Cadiz phoned her
"He asked me if I was the daughter and told me that there had been a mistake
that my father had been delivered to another funeral home by mistake and that the relatives had cremated the body," Alba said
that he was very sorry and that he would apologise
Then I asked him where my father was and they told me that the Guardia Civil had gone to get his remains
I couldn't believe what they were telling me," Alba said
that of a woman from Cadiz who died on the same date
had been given a funeral urn which contained the remains of Antonio González and
they even held the funeral believing they were those of the dead woman
The mistake was discovered when the funeral parlour in Malaga went to the IML in Cadiz to collect the body of the Malaga native
"they told us that my father would be arriving that day at the Malaga Cemetery Park (Parcemasa)
A lot of people called to find out where the funeral parlour was because they wanted to go and say goodbye to him," Alba added
Antonio González had run a hardware store next to La Goleta bridge in Malaga city and had closed the business just a few months ago as he planned to retire
"A cousin of mine went to talk to the priest and told him that there was no space
that we could celebrate mass the next day (Wednesday
My cousin begged him and he made a space for us to have a funeral service at 6pm
he always carried his holy cards in his wallet," Alba said
Antonio's remains were taken to Rincón de la Victoria
with the funeral urn left in a columbarium
"The worst thing is not having been able to fulfil his last wish
it is a mixture of indignation and impotence
but you can only resign yourself to the fact that at least he is buried," Alba said
but she couldn't because she couldn't travel to Cádiz
My sister wanted us to open the coffin so that she could say goodbye to him and it wasn't possible," Alba said
The family has put the case in the hands of lawyer Francisco Damián Vázquez
who is looking into the possibility of legal action
"What we want to know is at what point did someone confuse two people of different sexes
How can you cremate a man instead of a woman?" Alba said
The rider Julio García who competed in the superbike race without knowing his uncle
finished runner-up in the Jerez round of the world championship
he dedicated the podium to Antonio González and his daughters
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SARASOTA – Kique Perales returned from his first professional soccer experience a lot wiser and more eager than ever to pursue a career on the pitch
The 2023 Riverview High graduate spent the past three months as a member of Racing Club Portugese in El Puerto de Santa Maria
The soccer club was formed in 1928 and plays in the Primera Andaluza League in a country where the sport is beloved
Spain’s love affair with soccer was nothing new to Perales
the country wasn’t new to the bilingual 18-year-old
Area's Top Soccer Players: Introducing the Herald-Tribune 2024 All-Area Boys Soccer Team
Although Perales and his family moved to Sarasota when he was 2 years old, they spent summers in Spain, where the young fan absorbed the game and the culture.
“I could see the passion for the game,” Perales said, following a workout at the Ram Bowl with some of his former high school teammates. “You see guys ripping into each other and getting physical. I wanted to be part of that. It’s blood, sweat and tears.
“Even the fans give it their all. The fans take out their stress from the week on the weekend when they are at the games. They are as passionate as the players.”
Perales was the youngest player on the roster for Racing Club Portugese and saw action in just one game. But he kept his eyes and ears open and took nothing for granted.
“I was the first one to get to the facility and the last one to leave,” Perales said. “I wanted them to know how grateful I was to be given the opportunity. There is a professional standard. Now you’re getting paid to play.
“I have worked so hard all my life for that. It was always my goal when I was little. A lot of that comes from my Spanish roots. I always watched all the national teams play. Luckily, someone believed in me.”
Perales has an option on his contract to return to Racing Club Portugese. But he wants to keep all of his options open as he trains throughout the summer. His training also includes yoga, meditation, and weightlifting.
The weightlifting portion of his conditioning program is obvious. Perales played at Riverview weighing around 140 pounds. At 5-11, he has added 25 more pounds of muscle.
“I might have another opportunity to play in Italy as well,” Perales said. “I want to explore other options. It’s an exciting time. This could take me anywhere in the world.”
However, his top two choices would be to end up in the U.S. or Spain when all is said and done.
“I have roots here in Sarasota,” Perales said. “Spain will always be a part of me. I love both cultures.”
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A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK
The chef José Pizarro buzzes through the covered market in Barbate at speed–past flamenco buskers holding their guitars up to their chins
and crab’s feet—making a beeline for razor clams and bluefin tuna
called atún rojo in Spain for its ruby flesh
The bluefin and its almadraba fishing method have been prized for centuries in these coastal towns
the spring harvest is back: a great haul of enormous fish
which spend winter in the depths of the Atlantic
building a buttery layer of fat that makes the belly
pocketing volcanic black salt and La Breña pine nuts
The old ladies who come here to buy one fish stay all morning
A tostada and coffee is €1.50.” Pizarro seems to know every stall holder
‘Don’t give me a bad tomato again.’ They slip them in.” We gather up almond-truffled dark chocolates from the confitería
sink a couple of Cruzcampos and some chicharrónes
which Pizarro bought with his partner Peter Meades in 2021 after scouring the coast
It clings to the cliff near Zahara de los Atunes
a glassy modernist white cuboid with terracotta terraces
They’ve filled it with interesting art; a vast canvas from Tracey Emin’s A Journey to Death series hangs in their bedroom
CádizØivind HaugCasa La SiestaØivind HaugThe levante and poniente wins determine the mood of Andalusia’s Cádiz province
Hailing from a pastoral village near Caceres
Pizarro wanted a coastal Spanish antidote to his London townhouse life; somewhere to bring friends
his beloved mother (who introduced him to good food but always shooed him from the kitchen)
and clients who want the thrill of being cooked for by Pizarro at home
And maybe somewhere for the cameras: the chef
and owner of seven restaurants is loved by Britain mostly because he’s on Saturday Kitchen a lot
His effervescent fizz is organized and channelled by Meades
a Welsh psychotherapist whom Pizarro calls Pedro
Together they create a timelessly appealing drinks-topped-up hospitality
“He loves being able to drink and dance and listen to music while cooking
and we are in love with the ever-changing sea,” says Meades
you peer across a vast oceanic panorama that glitters and glints and rages and rolls
Africa seems close enough to touch when the Rif mountains appear like a cut-out on the horizon and the lights of Tangier twinkle across the gloam of the Strait of Gibraltar at night—at least when the levante and poniente winds aren’t raging up a storm
Two words you hear ad infinitum in Andalusia’s Cádiz province are levante and poniente
The levante is the easterly blow favored by windsurfers that causes heavy swells
and gives shins an unwanted microdermabrasion
The oppositional winds dictate the ebb and flow of life on the coast
Pomegranate treeØivind HaugSalmorejo soup at Iris ZaharaØivind HaugIf the wind is volatile
They also hint at the character of the “Coast of Light.” The last stretch of Spain’s southern Atlantic coast is no bourgeois
swirling estuaries and Wild West horizons daubed with fast-moving clouds
Moorish pueblos blancos dust the hills like icing sugar
and there’s a vast richness to the ridges and marshes of the national parks that buffer the coast’s extremities
The glorious sun makes this a land of ingredients—of copious olives and sherry (dry fino and amontillado
sunnier oloroso and salty-fresh manzanilla)
executed with a complicated system of nets that has barely altered since Phoenician times
culminates in the Semana Gastronómica del Atún in May
where the Moors landed in 710 CE to take most of Spain
which allows us to peel off in search of plankton risotto; broccoli-like groves of Aleppo pine trees; negronis with the sunset; and skies filled with candy-bright kitesurf sails
But there are other patriarchs of southern Spain to drop in on too: the ones that produce the ingredients Pizarro adores
Ramón Iglesias decided to devote his retirement to resurrecting the organic olive oil industry in his corner of Vejer de la Frontera
and he is most exercised about Tintilla de Rota
tanniny kind popular two centuries ago in Conil
We weave around Iglesias’s 30 varieties of olive trees
“The crazies and multinationals burned every bush here after the Second World War,” he says
“but now we are going back to what we knew: that you need to have a botanical garden.” Lavender
Manzanilla olives are big business here—the ones stuffed with pimentos—and also the picual
Spain’s peppery and chlorophylly bestseller
the price of olive oil has doubled,” he tells me
Because 45 percent of the olive oil production on earth comes from Andalusia.”
José Pizarro at Iris ZaharaØivind HaugCanalis tomatoes with extra virgin olive oilØivind HaugThe warm pride of the Andalusian patriarch ratchets up a notch when we reach Bodega Manuel Aragón
whose sandy vineyards stretch out to the forest fringing the dunes of Barossa
who clarified fino with egg white from when he was a child
plies us with six varieties and teaches us how to hold the stem of the glass with a crossed arm for elegance
“You haven’t finished the last langoustine—eat it,” or take your knife and fork off you because you’re not deboning the fish properly
Barbate MarketØivind HaugWe drink the sherry standing up
minuscule decades-old particles of yeast dancing in the golden liquid as we hold it up in the filmy light
As we progress from bone-dry to treacle-sweet
“The wine needs to be part of the conversation,” he announces
all the nonsense.” He dips a measuring stick
into the barrel to show me the layer of flor—the film of yeast—two fingers thick
By the time we get to the 60-year-old palo cortado
personal anecdotes are being shared in the group
the yogurt-ness,” Moreno growls with appreciation
“This is the best fino in the world; a difficult beast to tame.”
If Pizarro is Andalusia’s Extremadura émigré number one
His name is John Carlos Milburn Rodríguez (his father is English) and he’s here to take us to the wild
The sandstone ranges of Los Alcornocales hunker between the earthy Cádiz and brassy Málaga provinces
We hike through a pristine river valley in the oak groves of San Carlos del Tiradero
past remnant clusters of cork oaks and along dappled dirt roads
to gaze out on forested ridges that unroll to cornflower skies where buzzards float
El ChiringuitoØivind HaugBodega Manuel Aragón in Chiclana de la FronteraØivind HaugBy lunchtime
once the only shop in what is now a ghost hamlet
Her parents and grandparents ran the shop in a village of subsistence laborers who made a living gathering charcoal and cork
fat and morcilla blood sausage are smashed into chickpeas
This is the antithesis of the sleek fish plates of the coast
the food—and how she procured it (off some farmers on a culling mission)—reminds me fondly of Cuba
I think about the families that crossed the Atlantic centuries ago from pockets of Andalusia exactly like this
Sanlúcar de BarramedaØivind HaugIt’s not the first time I’ve felt misty this week
When we headed up to Casa Bigote in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
I had presumed the mustachioed guayabera-clad men and prim ladies with big pressed hair were sombre by nature
we tickled the fancy of the clientele when we requested to photograph the three generations of the Hermoso family who ran the place
plus a handsome septuagenarian patron who was lurking quietly on the balcony
to sing the jaleo—that hell-raising-flamenco call-and-response—with the senior Hermoso
The lady tickled her skirt above her knee as she took to the floor to cry out in passion and
Did I see a tear in the eye of our Norwegian photographer
who had been spoiling to leave since we got there
Tuna tartare at El Cuartel del MarØivind HaugTuna stew at Iris ZaharaØivind HaugIt has been an intense week of richness
preparing an array of precision dishes while maintaining a stream of chat
He whips mint off the top of a gazpacho–“No!”–while reducing fish stock that’s been going for hours
giant cloves of garlic quietly building flavor with bay leaves
He’s frying garlic prawns with chilli piquín pepper—“This will burn your fucking mouth.”—packing his famous prawn and hake croquetas
putting some ribs in the oven (“Eighty-five degrees for two hours; two to three hours at 110; 10 minutes at 220.”) and tackling tuna searing
tarantello (between the belly and the tail)
Pizarro has almost single-handedly produced the feast of my lifetime and cured one of the ghastliest hangovers I’ve ever had (caused by him)
There is nothing reverent about the way we eat the ventrecha de atún
“This is one of the best tuna I’ve had in my life,” proclaims Pizarro
The fever of the day is over and the sunlight is bouncing off the vast crested ocean in dancing sparkles
restlessly perfectionist Haug finally ceases motion and downs tools
cracks open a beer and shrugs on a toweling robe
as the golden light spools over the endless horizon
El ChiringuitoØivind HaugSign on the road from CádizØivind HaugWhere to stay in Costa de la LuzPlaza 18
Vejer de la FronteraOnce a 19th-century merchant’s house
this jewel-box-pretty boutique near a fountain-filled plaza is the prime place to stay in the best-preserved pueblo blanco in Andalusia
Breakfasts unfurl in Michelin-noted El Jardín del Califa
a Moroccan restaurant set in the palm-filled walled courtyard of sister hotel La Casa del Califa
Both properties are part of a network of hotels
restaurants and an atmospheric hammam created by visionary Scottish hotelier James Stuart
This fabulously romantic cortijo below Vejer was reimagined by the founder of London interiors brand Bert & May, who carefully reclaimed the exposed beams, terracotta tiles and iron balustrades in the lovely six-bedroom country house and two self-contained villas
The bountiful locavore food—much from on-site—is best enjoyed outside
with lavender wafting from beautifully primped Mediterranean gardens
Set in two-and-a-half forested acres that roll down to a wild beach on the Punta Paloma peninsula
this beautifully revamped stone bungalow is the brainchild of Marbella Club co-owner Jennica Arazi
who wanted to create a villa hideaway with the same service standards as her hotel
The cool open-plan house and pretty outbuildings are full of local crafts and wicker
with natural hues reflecting the surrounding sea
Zingy Mediterranean food by Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef Helena Martin-Riva can be arranged
but an invitation into her Moorish home with views over Vejer is a deep dive into the epicurean culture of her adopted home
and introduce every ingredient with passion
She has particular expertise in fino and atún rojo
and can wangle tables at El Campero in Barbate: the high church of bluefin tuna
Address: Annie B's Spanish Kitchen, C. Viñas, 1, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: anniebspain.com
opened in 1951 on the Guadalquivir River in super-foodie Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Sanlúqueños pile in for a dizzying array of seafood
but the crème de la crème are langoustines washed down with the local Manzanilla
Address: Restaurante Casa Bigote, C. Pórtico Bajo de Guía, 10, 11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: restaurantecasabigote.co
Chef Angel León’s three-Michelin-starred Aponiente sits at the intersection of experimental food and fine art
in a transformed 19th-century tidal mill setting
León’s zero-waste tasting menus center the more curious delicacies of the sea
from goose barnacles and plankton to seawater broths and bioluminescent amuse bouches
His La Taberna del Chef del Mar in the same town is a good option for a soupçon of the vibe and flavor
Address: Restaurante Aponiente, C. Francisco Cossi Ochoa, s/n, 11500 El Puerto de Sta María, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: aponiente.com
Hunkered into the dunes with a view of the ocean where the huge sun sets
and serious food from globetrotting Michelin-starred chef Manuel Berganza
The tuna tartare marinated in anchovy essence
Address: El Cuartel del Mar, C/Bajada de la Torre del Puerco s/n (Playa de la Barrosa, 11130 Chiclana de la Frontera, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: elcuarteldelmar.com
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is forging ahead with plans to expand production of Seriola (Seriola dumerili)
during his recent visit to the city’s Port Authorities facilities
the mayor witnessed significant progress in the construction of the new on-growing facility
this facility is set to become a global benchmarking in juvenile production of the species
while the extension represents an exciting step forward in completing the production cycle with a facility dedicated to on-growing up to the market size
It’s worth noting that the new on-growing facility spans 10,000 square metres and will employ a Recirculating Aquaculture System (RAS)
a technology that maximises resource efficiency and supports sustainable production
the facility will produce 450 tonnes of Seriola
preparations are underway for a future expansion that will increase the facility’s capacity of 4,500 tonnes annually over an area of 47,000 square metres
will incorporate cutting-edge technology for further enhance the sustainability of production
Mayor Beardo expressed his gratitude to Kingfish Norway and Futuna Blue for their investment in the city
highlighting how this project bolsters El Puerto de Santa María’s leadership in the aquaculture sector and boosts local economy growth
whilst reaffirming its commitment to innovation and environmental sustainability
25 March 2025 | A multilingual website offers citizens in-depth insights into European aquaculture
misPeces is published from El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz - Spain)
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After the emotions of saying goodbye to loved ones
there are a huge range of conditions to battle - ranging from crossing the notoriously heavy seas of the Bay of Biscay
facing flat calms of the doldrums along with Champagne sailing with the trade winds
The Clipper Round the World Yacht Race is the only event of its type
even if they have never stepped on a boat before
Previously VisitedNew ports are coming soon for the 2025-26 edition
Stay tuned for updates as we announce both legacy and new destinations that Race Crew will discover on the global route
2023-2024 editionPuerto SherrySpainPuerto Sherry is a bustling tourist resort in the region of Andalucía in Spain
where you will find everything you need from luxury accommodation
Inside the tourist resort is a magnificent marina located in the heart of the Bay of Cádiz
Following an epic journey across the Atlantic
featuring everything from fast sailing and squalls
not forgetting an encounter with King Neptune at the Equator
the fleet received a very warm welcome from the Yacht Club Punta del Este
The sailing club has vast experience hosting major sailing events
including three Clipper Race stopovers and is internationally renowned for its amazing hospitality
Clipper 2025-26 Race: £8,300 // Clipper 2027-28 Race: £8,795
The time you will need varies from leg to leg. The durations quoted on our “Build Your Race” section of the website and in our brochure, are for the approximate number of sailing days, so you will need to factor in additional time at each end of your leg and also any Host Port stopovers within the leg itself. Legs 2, 3 and 4 were the shortest in the 2023-24 edition at approximately four to five weeks and most of the other legs are between six to eight weeks.
Around 30% of crew members on each team will have done little or no sailing before they train with us. Others will have a range of sailing experience which might be dinghy sailing, flotilla holidays or crew with further advanced RYA qualifications and possibly experience of looking after their own boat. The one thing you will all have in common is that you’re looking to take part in a unique challenge, test your limits and find out if you have what it takes to traverse the oceans of the world.
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Under the slogan "Let’s end the housing business" (Acabemos con el negocio de la vivienda)
tens of thousands of Spaniards struggling to pay their rents or afford to buy a property will rally in Spain this Saturday to call for change
while in Barcelona the rally will start at Plaza Espanya at 6pm
Valencia’s protest will start at 6.30pm in the Town Hall Square
in Palma de Mallorca it will kick off at midday from Plaça Espanya and in Málaga it’ll begin at 11.30pm in Plaza de la Merced
Nearly all of Spain's major provincial capitals and major cities will join the call for decent and affordable housing
Puerto del Rosario in Fuerteventura and Mahón in Menorca
Organisers are demanding an immediate drop in rents
that something be done with the more than 3.8 million empty homes in Spain
that eviction companies be outlawed and that vulnerable families cannot be evicted if they don’t have alternative housing
and lastly that the country’s housing protest movement not be silenced
READ MORE: Why landlords in Spain leave their flats empty rather than rent long-term
Rents in Spain have increased by 78 percent in the last decade according to recent data by leading property website Fotocasa
one of dozens of groups and unions that have called the mass protests
have said that "exorbitant rents are the main cause of impoverishment of the working class and a barrier to accessing housing," adding that a small "rent-seeking" minority is enriching itself at the expense of "economically suffocating a large part of society."
In January, Spain’s Prime Minister Pedro Sánchez presented a raft of measures aimed at addressing the housing crisis, including a proposed ban or supertax on non-resident non-EU buyers
LISTED: Spain's 12 new measures to combat the housing crisis
Some of these measures need parliamentary approval before coming into force
Spain’s Socialist-led government has already attempted to control the rise in prices by putting rent caps in place for existing tenants and banning prices from increasing in ‘stressed rental markets’
the latter being up to regional governments to decide whether to implement
PSOE’s amended Housing Law has been criticised by many who argue it’s had the adverse effect of reducing stock and thus bumping up prices
as many landlords are taking their properties off the market due to these price controls and rent caps
no longer considering renting to long-term tenants remunerative
READ ALSO: Rent caps in Spain convince vulture funds to leave (but there's a catch)
April 5th’s nationwide protests could be the biggest rallies related to housing rights in recent memory in Spain
there were numerous protests across the country but they were held on different dates in different cities
and the focus was sometimes more on mass tourism than it was on Spain’s housing crisis
the messaging has often been mixed due to the fact that some of the places where rents and property prices have risen the most are also those where tourism numbers have spiked in recent years
There’s a growing sense among many Spaniards that they’re being priced out of their own cities
as more affluent foreigners can more easily afford Spanish rents and properties
and highly profitable tourist lets in residential buildings have become extremely common
READ ALSO: Is there a solution to Spain's housing crisis? Here's what the experts say
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Malaga city's famous Calle Larios will be coated in salt on Saturday 13 July for the extraordinary procession of the Virgin of Peace. The Brotherhood of the Holy Supper is in its final preparations as it prepares for the special day, which marks the centenary of its foundation.
On the planned route between the Cofradía del Rocío, where the procession will depart with the effigy of Luis Álvarez Duarte on its Easter throne, and the headquarters of the brotherhood, in Calle Compañía, there will be several points of interest. Some streets will be decorated, including Calle Larios, where a large carpet of salt will be laid. This will cover the stretch between Calle Strachan and Plaza de la Constitución.
On the coating of white salt will be different motifs, made with salt dyed in different colours, with many of them red, which represents the blood of Christ. Some will also be blue to represent the Virgin, as well as ochre and gold.
The design of the 'carpet', inspired by Marian ornamental motifs, is the work of David Calleja, fourth deputy mayor and councillor of El Puerto de Santa María town hall. He is in charge of drawing the work that is laid out each year in this town in Cádiz to honour its patron saint (Virgen de los Milagros).
"In an act of generosity, the company Chalupa, from El Puerto de Santa María, will donate salt from Salinas Santa María. Some 6,000 kilos of salt will be used to make the carpet," said López Taza, who pointed out the work of Vicente Rodríguez, a creative and multi-faceted artist specialising in decorations and stage design, as well as the head of the festivities service, José Luis Sara, both from El Puerto de Santa María.
Work on the salt carpet on Calle Larios will start on Saturday 13 July at 8am and will last until approximately 12.30pm. The carpet will be 115 metres long and 2.5 metres wide, allowing emergency vehicles and access to the surrounding streets. A route will be established around the carpet. "This carpet of salt has never before been seen in Calle Larios or in any other street of our city with these dimensions," López Taza added.
The passage of the procession through this area, about 12.15am on Sunday 14 July, will be very special, as the throne of the Virgin will be rocked and will not descend from the start of the carpet until the end.
López Taza is appealing for help to carry out the salt project. "We need all the help we can get and, of course, the help of Malaga city council is essential. For now, we have the support of the department of festivities and of district council number 1, in terms of coordination and facilitation of the work. And we also have, for now, the collaboration of the hotel AC Malaga Palacio," he said.
Although the procession of the Virgin of Peace will be held on Saturday 13 July, the brotherhood has made public the itinerary for the transfer of the Virgin from the parish church of Santo Domingo to La Victoria, where it will be on display until Thursday 11 July, the day set aside for the brothers to take their patron saint, at 9pm, to the brotherhood house of the Cofradía del Rocío. From here, in the Plaza Párroco Ruiz Forest, the procession will start on Saturday evening at 7pm.
Registered office Málaga, Avda. Dr. Marañón, 48.
after torrential rain in parts of Andalusia
Severe flooding was reported in parts of Cadiz province
along with some surface flooding and rockfalls in parts of Malaga province
According to Spain meteorological agency AEMet (Agencia Estatal de Meteorología) Grazalema in Cádiz recorded 111.4 mm of rain in 24 hours between 17 and 18 October
Images on Social Media showed flood water raging through streets of Jerez de la Frontera in Cadiz
Jerez de la Frontera mayor, Mamen Sánchez said that much of the rain fell in a 45 minute period
where local authorities recorded 47 mm at Guadalete
42 mm in El Portal and around 100 mm in Mesas de Asta
Cadiz province fire department (Consorcio de Bomberos de la Provincia de Cádiz) said that were called to over 100 emergencies in Jerez de la Frontera and Puerto de Santa María
Numerous streets of Jerez de la Frontera were completely submerged and emergency crews were called upon to rescue several people trapped in their vehicles
3 people were rescued from vehicles in flood water
Local Police say as many as 200 cars have been damaged in the floods
Schools have been closed and some homes are without electricity
The mayor of Jerez de la Frontera and other officials visited the affected areas yesterday
According to local media
the heavy rain also caused a major rockfall in the Serrania de Ronda,in the western part of province of Málaga
where huge boulders blocked the road between Jimera de Líbar and Benaoján
Some surface flooding was also reported in parts of Malaga
Málaga con lluvia = caos!! #malaga#lluvia#inundaciones#malagaseinunda# pic.twitter.com/X0EHGSRcgJ
— ₱∀ßLơ ✌ (@pandilerino) October 18, 2017
El @ciudadjerez pedirá que se declare a #Jerez como zona catastrófica tras las lluvias de esta noche #Lluvia https://t.co/M0A6a7lQVU pic.twitter.com/ChcMgLrV28
— laFM. (@lafm_es) October 18, 2017
#lluvia Jerez de la Frontera pic.twitter.com/qBwgG2c2dE
— Alvaro (@AlvaroGutinano) October 18, 2017
Bomberos ha tenido a rescatar a varias personas atrapadas en el interior de sus vehículos #ElPuerto #Jerez #Cádizhttps://t.co/lhQLJNhRO8 pic.twitter.com/lF0cTttP0J
— Diario de Cádiz (@diariocadiz) October 18, 2017
Registradas 162 incidencias a causa de la lluvia esta madrugada #Cádiz https://t.co/lhQLJNhRO8 pic.twitter.com/VEoa46ngUo
— Diario de Cádiz (@diariocadiz) October 18, 2017
Así ha sido la tromba de agua de esta madrugada en varios puntos de la provincia de Cádiz. Más detalles aquí: https://t.co/DoWIkB3jyE pic.twitter.com/JlHgCtQtx1
— CanalSurNoticias (@CSurNoticias) October 18, 2017
llueve en jerez de la frontera tormentas avenida puerta del sur pic.twitter.com/LGrO5PZKVQ
— txarilla (@angelpina23) October 18, 2017
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The history of Cadiz in Andalucía dates back to the time of the Phoenicians
the civilisation that founded the first cities along the coastline of this province 3,000 years ago
From then on life took shape in the area with the likes of the Greeks
Visigoths and the Moors following one after the other
culminating in the so-called Christian Reconquest
It was precisely during this period of constant battles between the Catholic landed gentry and the followers of Mohammed that numerous fortresses were built in the borderlands
The prestigious National Geographic magazine has chosen these 11 castles as the most impressive to go visit in the province of Cadiz
dominating the whole horizon and with the best views of the Sierra de Cádiz
The castle was built at the end of the 12th century and formed part of the defensive system of the Nasrid kingdom of Granada
It is perched on a rock at the highest point of the town
and has an irregular floor plan in the shape of an elongated triangle that moulds to the shape of the rock itself
Its entranceway is protected by a barbican (fortified gatehouse) and crowned with a shield
an underground enclosure and a well in the north tower
it can be visited for a modest price (2 euros) especially considering the magnificent views it affords of the area
Another castle that is a product of the battles between Christians and Muslims in the Middle Ages
Jimena de la Frontera even has the term of frontier in its name
It was regarded as a strategic location and the fortress is one of the last vestiges of the Nasrid kingdom
it constituted a defensive element of vital importance on the south-western border of the Nasrid kingdom
which joined Castellar de la Frontera to the south and Tavizna (Benaocaz) to the north
Built on the ruins of the ancient Roman city of Oba
an important point on the road between Cordoba and what was then known as Carteia (on the coast above modern-day Algeciras)
walled enclosure that surrounded the old town
covering an extensive and elongated area that was well-adapted to the flat terrain of the hilltop
Its interior has been taken apart and is now partly occupied by the town's cemetery
The gateway to the Patio de Armas is still intact and is articulated in structure with two pointed horseshoe arches pinned together.The upper gate can operate independently of the lower one when under attack
The lower gate still has some remains of its old painted decoration based on geometric motifs
This gate is protected by a rectangular tower known as the Clock Tower
Among the ashlars of this complex are two part-columns and a base for a statue of Roman origin
The castle was taken from the Muslims in 1431
holding on until 1456 when it was definitively taken by the Christian forces under the command of Enrique IV
The castle was later sold to the Duke of Medina-Sidonia
The whole complex dates back to the 13th century
although it was renovated in later centuries
Alfonso X the Wise conquered El Puerto in the year 1264 and on the foundations of the old mosque he built the castle of San Marcos
which is mentioned in his Cántigas a Santa María (medieval poetry set to music by troubadours)
Sited next to the river Guadalete in the centre of El Puerto
this fortress is one of the most visited monuments in the city
It is home to cultural activities and private events
the chronicles state that Christopher Columbus stayed there with the Catholic Monarchs before his departure for the Americas
This castle also dates from the Nasrid period
during the time of the Reconquest when Cadiz's provincial boundaries were disputed
Not much remains beyond the reconstructed tower
but it is a spectacular site due to its location
A stupendous vantage point in the middle of the Sierra de Cádiz
with the town at its feet and the reservoir as onlooker
It was declared an Asset of Cultural Interest in 1985 and is 600 metres above sea level
only a few sections of the wall remain (both from the Nasrid and Christian periods)
under which there is a Moorish water deposit
The castle in Arcos was a military fortress during the Muslim period
With the arrival of the Christians it became the residence of the dukes of Arcos
It is now a private residence and therefore not open to visitors
It has a quadrangular ground plan and is composed of four crenellated towers at its corners
the great Aljibe del Patio de Armas and the Merlones de Cobertura Piramidal date from the 14th and 15th centuries
It is currently accessed from under the arch where the town hall's oratory used to be
This Luna (moon) castle was built in the 13th century with the arrival of another of the great conquerors of the time
It has a rectangular floor plan and five crenellated towers
and its interior is laid out around a central courtyard
The Ponce de León family used the castle as a residence
Historical documents record the visit of the Catholic Monarchs
The castle also housed a hospital and a school
and is currently the site for Rota town hall
What else can be said about the castle at Castellar de la Frontera
It is a fortress on the mountain that served as a refuge for locals in case of attack
This Arab fortress built in the 13th century was located in a frontier position
It was the former residence of the counts of Castellar
It is located between the Guadarranque and Hozgarganta rivers
overlooking the Guadarranque reservoir and the forests on its slopes
on the outskirts of where the modern-day town of Castellar de la Frontera is situated
The castle is in the heart of the Los Alcornocales (cork forest) Natural Park
A site of Cultural Interest with the category of Monument since 1949
In the lower part is the village of Castellar Nuevo
Castellar is part of the list of the Most Beautiful Villages of Spain
The castle in Tarifa town is also the legacy of the aforementioned Guzmán el Bueno
In this case it is different because it is located in an elevated area but it is next to the sea
in the southernmost city of the Iberian Peninsula
they urged him to surrender the town or his son would die
Don Alonso Pérez de Guzmán preferred to sacrifice his son rather than surrender the town
even throwing his own dagger from the octagonal tower to use on his son
Jerez was reconquered in 1264 by Alfonso X The Wise
Shortly afterwards it would pass into the possession of the House of Arcos
On a hilltop opposite the cathedral of San Salvador
the monument opens onto a tranquil square and one side of the city wall
now next to the Alameda Vieja (an old walkway)
The castle of Santiago de Sanlúcar de Barrameda is also located by the sea and near the mouth of the Guadalquivir river
A fortress built by the illustrious House of Medina Sidonia in the 15th century
through which prestigious navigators and explorers passed
where one can appreciate some of its important
architectural features while feeling the Atlantic breeze from the Torre del Homenaje
It is one of the most modern of the castles listed here -i.e
It is currently open to the public and is the most visited monument in Sanlúcar
Espera is not exactly one of the most visited towns in the province
which is why it has one of the least known castles
It is visibly connected with the castle of Matrera in Villamartín and the castle in Arcos
so that all three could be in communication with each other
Abderraman III built it in 914AD on the ruins of a visigothic building
Attached to the military fortress is the main façade in baroque style
with a doorway flanked by stone uprights supporting an entablature (horizontal doorway top comprising of the architrave
in the centre of which is an oculus to light up the interior
ACCIONA's real estate division bets once again on the Cádiz real estate market with two new developments in the Sotogrande area
The developer has launched Los Albares de Sotogrande
and in the coming months will add another project closer to the coast
as part of the strong residential offer in one of the most exclusive areas of Cádiz
Los Albares de Sotogrande is a well-designed residential complex of 49 single-family homes
Its timeless and traditional architecture is the work of the Malaga-based architectural firm Torras y Sierra
together with the technical team of ACCIONA's real estate division
The development is located in an exclusive environment
in the upper area of Sotogrande at the foot of the golf course
Its connection to the A-7 highway allows fast access
to the Sotogrande Marina seven kilometers away
allowing residents to enjoy the wide range of services
Los Albares de Sotogrande has 19 townhouses or ‘patio houses’ in the northernmost part of the plot
24 ‘garden houses’ (semi-detached houses) and six detached villas
All of them have their own private garden with a swimming pool
The motto of the project is "a garden with houses"
integrated into the environment through an ambitious landscaping project
based on traditional Andalusian architecture
meets the highest standards of comfort and quality
including aerothermal air conditioning and underfloor heating
as well as furnished and equipped kitchens and a meticulous choice of finishes
The sustainability component of ACCIONA's real estate developments is tangible from the very conception of the project: the integration into the land
the materials and the technologies based on renewable energies
such as aerothermal systems and photovoltaic energy
which are incorporated into all the homes to achieve the highest energy efficiency
ACCIONA's real estate division is in the process of developing a new destination
a unique experience for the whole family to enjoy the beach
The development will consist of a residential complex of some 100 single-family homes and a hotel
which will provide services to the homeowners of this complex and of Los Albares
this new concept will include a shopping area and restaurants
This residential complex joins others developed by ACCIONA on the coast of Cádiz
The developer has launched a new destination in El Puerto de Santa María
consisting of a high-specification residential complex with 104 homes
which will revitalize this enclave at an international level
it has recently launched 284 new homes in the Costa Ballena development
on top of the 168 homes already built in the area
which represent a boost to the company's presence in the Andalusian real estate sector
The homes are spread across two new developments
Natura Costa Ballena (123 homes) and Los Enebros (161 homes)
All of ACCIONA's new real estate developments have been conceived under the "Living Spaces" concept
which integrates sustainable and efficient housing
with high architectural standards and well-designed interiors and landscaping that aim to have a minimal ecological impact on the environment and promote the urban revitalization of the area
The buildings will be delivered with the international BREEAM® sustainable construction certification
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it is not necessary to go to the most exalted restaurants; to eat even better
these gastronomic temples recognized by the famed Michelin Guide will be a sure hit
If one had to designate a gastronomic bible in which all great restaurants (in Andalusia and anywhere) want to be, that is undoubtedly the Michelin Guide
a reference for avid tasters in search of the best places to eat
We compile all the Andalusian restaurants awarded with such a distinguished recognition
In Andalusia these are the renowned restaurants with the prestigious distinction of having one
Discourse matters and Paco Morales knew that for a fact when he decided to undertake the major project that is Noor
The history of the different peoples who settled in this land vertebrates Noor’s cuisine, which without cheating promises menus that deal with the food of those times
It allows us to embark on a historical journey through Al-Andalus that can be savored
who have helped to build the unmistakable image of Noor
All this confirms the two Michelin stars he has accumulated
one of the most talented chefs in Andalusia and one of those restaurants that you have to try at least once in your life
his originality and unique creations in his iconic restaurant in Puerto de Santa María have raised Andalusian gastronomy as never before
The chef of the sea needs no introduction and neither does this gastronomic mecca
an experience for the five senses that explores food possibilities that once seemed impossible to taste
The old tide mill houses Aponiente as a space in continuous transformation that
bets on sustainability from the techniques used
renewable energies and its commitment to a culinary philosophy that squeezes the possibilities of discarded fish
A high-level cuisine that achieves excellence also through environmental responsibility
Jerez chef Juanlu Fernández at Lú Cocina y Alma amply demonstrates his culinary prowess
a musk of Andalusia and the French recipe book
The “rearguard avant-garde” chef
who has retained this prestigious recognition since 2018
unhurried experience with the cuisine inside his spectacular dining room
which places him at the summit of Andalusian gastronomy
And it is, at the same time, an ideal getaway from Seville
which roots the food of the day laborers and the terroir of the house with the heritage of French techniques
Seasons that sublimate the goodness of this land
The Gran Meliá Novo Sancti Petri, in Chiclana de la Frontera, is home to this restaurant by Ángel León. Once again, the famed chef from Cadiz extends his commitment to the sea in this other space
Aponiente’s little brother also draws on the bounties of the Atlantic and promises a genuine
Ronda had plenty of tourist attractions and yet it was able to incorporate among its goodness one of the greatest references
The house of Benito Gomez entails this bet just a few steps from the imposing bridge of Ronda
The chef of Catalan origin carries out a creative cuisine that goes beyond the pure labels: tradition
Marcos Granda and Mario Cachinero form the perfect tandem in charge of the kitchen at Skina
Just four tables make up the dining room of this little corner dedicated to good food
Their dishes are based on the flavors of a lifetime to transform them while preserving and improving all their virtues
have earned him recognition in 2022 as Revelation Chef at Madridfusión or the first Michelin star in 2024 to this family project that treasures almost 30 years of life
The cuisine of the terroir runs through this project in the Sierra de Cádiz
which continues to be nourished by the work and ties of the family
Of rustic and close appearance and flavors rooted in the land
putting the vegetable as the undisputed protagonist of its two tasting menus
elevated Sevillian gastronomy to excellence and for 14 years has revalidated its recognition in the famed guide
in addition to the two Repsol suns it treasures
It opened its doors in 2004 and its kitchen is in charge of chef Julio Fernández Quintero
trained in the school of La Taberna del Alabardero in Seville
the work of architects Santiago Pérez Barreda and Jaime Márquez Escudero
the undisputed protagonist of this experience that starts in Seville and crosses the whole of Andalusia
The perfect blend capable of balancing a recipe book with a powerful traditional component and the avant-garde in vogue
Cañabota’s very careful proposal is identified with the sea
Fish and seafood backbone the concept of Cañabota
Juan Luis Fernández created in Seville a space inspired by a fish restaurant full of tiles that he had the opportunity to see in Croatia
the Sevillian chef decided to launch this project in 2016
technique and service are executed with mastery in each of its spaces
the recently starred restaurant in the center of Seville has two spaces for diners
Profuse flavors and a culinary language of its own are two qualities that Blossom can champion
A journey in which the diner is immersed from the first moment and that promises an intimate and delicious experience
You will find it in the heart of Malaga and you can enjoy it in its cosy dining room or on its terrace.
The chef of Argentine origin Emiliano Schobert moved to Malaga in 2019 putting the germ of this great restaurant that puts the focus on the seasonality of the products
The hustle and bustle of downtown Cadiz finds its respite at Código de Barra
one of Andalusia’s recent Michelin star additions
Cádiz is slow-cooked and reinterpreted with the best of produce
Dutch-born chef León Griffioen and his wife
the reader should take note and keep in their future experiences Contraseña
the Malaga stars revalidated this recognition with just one surprise
Dani Carnero’s restaurant on Marquesa de Moya street
Kaleja is dedicated to embers and smoke, recovering recipes that marked the chef’s life. Along with Kaleja, Carnero has two other restaurants: La Cosmopolita and La Cosmo
in the vicinity of the picturesque village of Loja hides one of the recent gastronomic gems to receive Michelin stars in Andalusia
Chef Fernando Arjona is in charge of this space
The gastronomic journey starts in an old chapel to taste the appetizers and from where diners will be led to a rustic lounge
A journey of flavor around the cuisine of Malaga and Cadiz
📍 Finca La Bobadilla Road Salinas-Villanueva de Tapia (A-333
Pedro Sánchez’s extensive experience in renowned kitchens is no secret
He is treasured by his years at Casa Antonio
Martín Berasategui’s restaurant or the Tragabuches restaurant in Ronda run by Dani García
It is in Bagá where he configures his cuisine
a culinary treasure that alludes to the olive blossom and in which the client will find very varied forms of “Sentir Jaén”
Córdoba is gaining a place in the state gastronomic scene and Kisko García is one of the reference names in this regard
The Choco restaurant runs away from the downtown traffic and offers the opportunity to delight us with a formidable parade of elaborations to dream with flavor
The products of the province are extolled in each dish with a menu (and a close but excellent service) that surprises from start to finish
liquid gold present in many corners of the national geography but with special attention in the province of Jaén
It is this restaurant an ode to the grandmother of chef Juan Aceituno
in addition to the Gran Menú María (a tribute to his daughter
by reservation only) that are all a journey through the land of Jaén
another of Andalusia’s undoubted gastronomic destinations
stands out with two Michelin-star designated restaurants
Mantúa (a local wine reference that alludes to one of the grape varieties that back in the 18th century was grown in the vicinity of Jerez) is a tribute to Andalusian cuisine
with special attention to the Jerez recipe book
Arcilla and Caliza are the two menus available to the diner who dares to taste the versions of Israel Ramos
Malaga is one of the greatest gastronomic miles of Andalusia (and not only because of the number of Michelin-starred restaurants it accumulates)
José Carlos García’s bet is one more of these great promises
located in the neighborhood of La Malagueta
In his restaurant the diner will find market cuisine
Travel to El Ejido (if we suspect that the reader is in the easternmost Andalusia) to enjoy this restaurant exclusively
The most fitting answer would be to refer to the experience of this highly acclaimed Andalusian restaurant
José Álvarez follows the gastronomic trail of La Costa
The products of the Alboran Sea and the vegetables of proximity are the protagonists of the menu of the only Michelin starred restaurant in Almeria
Mauricio Giovanini captains the stoves of Messina
a restaurant that harmonizes European and Latin American gastronomy as well as Mediterranean (eye
with nods also to Lebanese cuisine) with mastery
He is accompanied in this adventure by the excellent sommelier and head waitress Pía Ninci
Chef: Mauricio Giovanini and sommelier Pia Ninci
Diego Gallegos is the caviar chef while exercising his talent in the kitchens of Sollo
the renowned restaurant based in Fuengirola
excellent sea views and a gastronomic proposal much more than innovative
Although Sollo pays special attention to the sea
they do so with an eye to the future and sustainability
as 90% of the raw materials they use come from their own resources and crops
another of the restaurants in one of the epicenters of Andalusia
Namely: the traditional and the green Michelin star that recognizes the commitment to environmental sustainability
Marcos Granda conquers the province of Málaga with his two reputable restaurants
Nintai is one of his latest bets in Marbella
after falling in love with the Japanese country on a trip he made in 2019
It will be the Itamae Pablo Olivares who will hold the prestige of putting himself at the head of the table
two tasting menus that vary depending on the product of the day: Omakase and Nintai
The diner should pay attention to its carefully selected menu of sakes
trained at Luis Irizar’s Cooking School and with extensive experience in Aponiente
In the summer of 2020 he opened the doors of this business which is accompanied by his brother Juan as sommelier with whom they have conquered their first star
Chef David Olivas carries the banner of this temple
at the same time restaurant and once also tapas bar come to (very much) more in Marbella
In short: elaborations reminiscent of the flavors of always but refined
Baeza celebrates the incorporation of Vandelvira among the new starred restaurants awarded by the Michelin Guide this 2023
Juan Carlos García is in charge of this space integrated within a 16th century convent
Modest products from the garden and dishes that breathe haute cuisine from honesty
Another Andalusian restaurant that surprised with its first Michelin star is Malak
the delicacy of these beings that also transfer to its room
The premise of Radis restaurant is that every day changes its tasting menu
Its name finde tribute to their elders and so does its cuisine
what is expected from this proposal are the aromas and flavors of always
You may be interested in: 14 tasting menus in Seville that are worth it.
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It took me just a day to slide into the rhythms of Andalusia in southern Spain and become the night owl I’d always wanted to be
ending the evening past midnight with a glass of amontillado at a bar on the square
I had planned this trip to the Sherry Triangle for months
drawn to this corner of southwestern Spain to learn more about the sherry made in one of the world’s top wine regions
is bounded by the towns of Jerez de la Frontera
Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María
about 90 minutes south of Seville and just 20 or so minutes apart
The unique fortified wine has a history that dates to the 17th century
Many of the historic bodegas and shippers were founded in the 18th century before the United States was even a country
sherry was having a long moment in the U.S
sticky dregs in that decanter in your grandmother’s cupboard
That is not the glorious wine I came to experience
only a small proportion of sherry is sweet
and that includes not only fino and manzanilla (a fino made only in Sanlúcar de Barrameda)
Walking through sun-drenched streets lined with hulking white and ocher bodegas
the blanket of ivory yeast cells that forms on top of fino or manzanilla and protects these wines from oxidation
age only partly or not at all under flor.)
Barbadillo or Hidalgo La Gitana house thousands of old casks of sherry in soaring
tall pillars and high windows shaded with hand-plaited straw mats
and tours (in English) provide a quick education in the intricacies of sherry
But there’s much more to this region than just wine
I ate the best seafood of my life here along the Costa de la Luz
I still find myself daydreaming about the briny
raw clams I had at lunch at El Bichero in Jerez or the sublime prawns at Casa Bigote along Bajo de Guía in Sanlúcar
where the Guadalquivir River meets the Atlantic
At the tiny Michelin two-star Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María
the sommelier paired Angel Léon’s spectacular tasting menu with sumptuous old sherries
If visiting cellars isn’t high on your agenda
flamenco clubs and the chance to see the amazing horses from the royal equestrian school
Some prefer the tonier parts of El Puerto de Santa María
but it took me only a couple of hours to decide that Sanlúcar was my town
within walking distance of the sea and across from the huge Doñana National Park and its wetlands
I couldn’t cross the river to the Doñana this time because of the Roció pilgrimage
and I never got to hear any flamenco or visit Cádiz
the oldest continually inhabited city in Spain
Never mind: It’s always good to leave a trip with something undone
connecting service (change of plane) to Seville is offered on Iberia
Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,595
Moderately priced 31-room hotel in good location
Hotel Sherry Park, 11 Avenida Alcalde Álvaro Domecq, Jerez de la Frontera, 011-34-956-31-76-14, www.hotelsherrypark.com/en/
174-room hotel with easy parking yet within walking distance of the city center
Palacio Garvey, 24 Calle Tornería, Jerez de la Frontera, 011-34-956-32-67-00, www.hotelpalaciogarvey.com/en
Boutique hotel in 19th century building in the city’s center with 16 rooms
TRYP Jerez Hotel, 13 Calle Marqués de Casa Domecq, Jerez de la Frontera, 011-34-956-327030, www.lat.ms/1KvH0mh
Well-priced 97-room hotel with excellent location in the center of Jerez just across from Santo Domingo convent
More business hotel than charming boutique
Parking around the corner in an underground public lot
Hotel Barrameda, 10 Calle Ancha, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, 011-34-956-38-58-78, www.hotelbarrameda.com
Stylish bargain boutique hotel just off the main square
Posada de Palacio, 9 Caballeros, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, 011-34-956-36-48-40, www.posadadepalacio.com
has a series of terraces and inner courtyards
irene.virbila@latimes.com
A guide to the sherry bodegas of Spain
Where to get fabulous seafood to pair with Andalusia’s fabulous sherries
Five cocktails worth traveling for, near or far
S. Irene Virbila is a former restaurant critic and wine columnist for the Los Angeles Times. She left in 2015.
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That flamenco specialty so difficult to define
Legendary dancer/singer of fiesta flamenco for those of a certain age
and nearly unknown in the current fast-paced world of promotion via social media
international festivals and public sponsorship
he left the planet in 1983 and in those 66 years between one date and the other
he enriched the atmosphere with his original take on flamenco
a grandson of Anzonini’s has lovingly taken on the job of reviving and honoring the inimitable art of his grandfather with a series of talks
Antonio Macías Bermúdez discusses the project
when did you first realize your grandfather had been a well-known flamenco personality
In Puerto de Santa María he was known by everyone
his restrained elegant way of dancing and his extraordinary compás
and that he played castanets with all his fingers
My grandmother always used to say he was “an artist’s artist”
Ever since childhood I heard stories and anecdotes about the people who visited my grandfather’s house: La Perla de Cádiz
a very young Rancapino and his brother Orillo
El Negro del Puerto and many others seeking out Anzonini
When I was old enough to understand the dimension of all these people
I began to realize my grandfather’s importance within flamenco
As time passes there are fewer and fewer people who had direct contact with him
but whenever I come across someone who knew him
they tend to remember Anzonini with emotion and nostalgia
What’s really surprising is coming across foreigners
The reason I’m doing this series Anzonini del Puerto
Cien años de Compás is precisely in order to preserve the memory of who he was
sometimes I think there ought to be some public recognition
the administration is precisely the sector that knows the least about Anzonini
My grandfather died in 1983 when I was just 14
he used to visit us now and again around the beginning of the 1970s when he was living between Morón de la Frontera and Málaga
Towards the end of the decade he moved to California although he occasionally returned to visit us
You’ve put together a fine presentation about Anzonini
In 2016 the Ermitaño Cultural Association in Puerto de Santa María proposed doing a talk about flamenco to help people distinguish the various flamenco forms
This conference was called The ABCs of Flamenco Formsand it was very well-received
In 2018 I was asked to do another series of talks
a reference to the centennial of my grandfather’s birth
I debuted the talk in the summer of 2018 at the Tomás el Nitri flamenco association in El Puerto for friends
relatives and locals with the attendance of people who had known Anzonini in Spain or in the United States
Thanks to Jerónimo Velasco in Morón de la Frontera
the organization of the Gazpacho flamenco festival of 2018 included the talk within the parallel cultural activities of this event
including the performance of two terrific singers
Antonio “El Carpintero” and Antonio Chacón
both of whom had been flamenco buddies of Anzonini’s
The next talk is at the Hospitalito Municipal Museum in El Puerto
an activity organized within the 21stedition of the Fiesta de los Patios of Puerto de Santa María devoted to Flamenco Dance
What was Anzonini’s relationship with Morón de la Frontera
Morón adopted Anzonini and was absorbed by the Morón flamenco scene around 1963
He was looking for a canvass to paint his bohemian soul
in addition to the proximity of Utrera with Fernanda
and Alcalá de Guadaíra with Manolito de María
was the perfect setting to cultivate a kind of flamenco that was free
well-to-do patrons played an important part
They were the ones who organized gatherings in which these artists would perform
Particularly noteworthy was the firm relationship between Anzonini and the businessmen Antonio and Ángel Camacho of Morón
Add to this the revolution that took place due to the large number of Americans who went to study flamenco
attracted by the guitar-playing of Diego del Gastor
many of them lodged at the Finca Espartero run by Donn Pohren where organized fiestas gave additional support
both economic and artistic to the artists of the era
How did you go about gathering data for this investigation
we were always awaiting news about grandfather Anzonini
there was always someone who had run into him at the bullfight or at some fiesta
In 2001 I met Andrés González Gómez on an internet forum devoted to flamenco
After carrying out an exhaustive investigation
he published his book Al compás de Anzonini del Puertoin 2013
I was fortunate enough to collaborate with the author on the part regarding the era of Anzonini in Puerto de Santa María
organizing meetings with friends and relatives of Anzonini
all of which allowed me to delve into the people surrounding him
The investigation carried out by this author
has made it possible to access a great deal of information about which I’d had no former knowledge
I met Jerónimo Velasco of Morón de la Frontera at the book presentation
Jerónimo is involved in the organization of the Gazpacho festival of Morón since the its beginning
A great deal of information comes from Jerónimo’s Fondo Flamenco
and much data furnished by flamencos of the era has made it possible to get a glimpse of what those times were like
Do you aspire to follow in your grandfather’s footsteps
Flamenco has fascinated me ever since childhood
I began playing the guitar when I was eight
and when I got older I studied in Jerez with “El Carbonero”
in this respect I have very little discipline
the improvised get-together and having a good time at an informal party
In this sense I aspire to be like Anzonini
to enjoy the kind of flamenco that just happens and isn’t premeditated
Anzonini didn’t approach flamenco as a job
he developed a philosophy of life using the vehicle of flamenco
Anzonini’s descendants are few: my mother had three children and my aunt
It’s clear that Anzonini left his personal mark in dance and that he did something special and genuine
in the same line but different from all the other fiesta artists
One way or another he contributed a style that led the way for current artists
(no relation to the current dancer of the same name)
speaking about her infancy when the cousins lived together at the age of 13 or 14
told me that Anzonini was always marking flamenco rhythms
There are also references that Anzonini followed a style expressed by “Las Coquineras”
especially the fiesta dancer Antonia Gallardo “La Coquinera” (1874-1942)
What do you know about Anzonini’s years in the United States
I’ve had contact with some of the Americans who spent time with him
for example Paul Shalmy who accompanied my grandfather and was at my house during his last visit in the spring of 1983
I know it was he who helped Anzonini move to California in the middle of the seventies
My grandfather was very well-received and carved out a place for himself at Berkeley
He gave flamenco dance classes and made the most of his aptitudes as cook and butcher
selling sausages he made with artisan methods
he participated in a documentary about the importance of garlic in a variety of cultures
The documentary was produced by Less Blanc
I know he also was connected with the universities of San Diego in California and Washington
giving talks in which he was accompanied by dancer Marcia Sánchez “La Romera”
He had a special connection with the ethnomusicology department of the University of Washington with whom he collaborated on many occasions
I also have indications that he made contact with Sabicas
Is he still relevant for the current generation
have the reference of Anzonini and his special way with the dance
But what’s really surprising is the community of flamenco fans he created in California
giving continuity to the seed that came about in the 1960s
Do you think the art of the flamenco festero is in danger of extinction
I believe there are tendencies that are more developed in one era than others
it’s obvious flamenco evolves just as society evolves
since it follows a way of externalizing emotion
Nowadays we have a crossing of industry with an economic component that is difficult to sort out
and it’s possible not all flamenco can find a place in this powerful swirl of production
This isn’t the sword of Damocles of fiesta artists
The figure of the festero will surely continue to thrive in its own habitat of up-close flamenco and inspiration and will be reserved for those fortunate enough to witness it
Sus artículos han sido publicados en numerosas revistas especializadas y es conferenciante bilingüe en Europa
and website in this browser for the next time I comment
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Knowledge and passion The depth and the grief
EXPOFLAMENCO connects Flamenco communities around the world
Cadiz province has the most smoke-free beaches in all of the Andalucía region
Places where it is not allowed to light up a cigarette
There are more than twenty coastal areas where smoking is strictly forbidden or where specific smoking areas have been set up
there are also some swimming pools where smoking is not allowed
For Cadiz these are the following beaches that are smoke-free:
This initiative is the work of the Andalusian Network of Smoke-Free Health Services and Spaces and is promoted by the Directorate-General of Public Health and Pharmaceutical Management within the Junta de Andalucía
It seeks to raise awareness of the negative consequences of this unhealthy habit that kills 10,000 people a year in Andalucía
The network seeks to lessen the negative impact of smoking on the beaches of the region
promoting instead some cleaner habits to improve health and quality of life
reduce pollution and to improve the overall image of Andalucía's coastline
town or village in Andalucía within whose municipal area there is a beach or swimming pool
those wishing to go smoke-free must pass through an assessment and accreditation process to be awarded one of four levels: member
It is each participating town hall's responsibility to undertake to implement the policies it sees fit to keep selected beaches pool areas smoke-free
to ensure that they are adequately signposted and to provide information to users as to how to keep the area smoke-free
A team of chefs and scientists in southern Spain are trying to cultivate an edible sea grain for the first time
Can Aponiente’s “sea pantry” fight global food insecurity and be used for conservation purposes
the seaside town of El Puerto de Santa Maria is best known for its past
Once considered “the city of a hundred palaces,” what remains are crumbling facades and the dubious distinction of having one of the country’s highest unemployment rates
It’s an unlikely place to find a three-Michelin-starred restaurant at the forefront of marine grain cultivation
but Chef Ángel León has never been one to conform
and León is preparing to reopen Aponiente (“facing West”) for the season with characteristic energy
With its focus on experimental fine dining
Aponiente has been a beacon for fine dining fanatics since it first opened in 2007
the diners will come from around the globe
eager to try avant-garde dishes made from discarded fish parts
forty-two cooks are chopping and sauteing while a team of cleaners carefully wipe the glass doors and windows that look out on the marsh
two stick out: Juan Martín and Sofía Rivaes
They aren’t chefs or sommeliers; Martín is an environmental scientist and Rivaes is a biologist
hey are part of a small team helmed by León that has embarked on an ambitious project to domesticate an aquatic plant called Zostera marina
They are animated by the belief that if properly cultivated in estuaries
Zostera could help alleviate the global food crisis
improving the outlook for a world in which an estimated 345.2 million people currently suffer from food insecurity
Zostera would be a new grain that can be cooked similarly to rice
and grown with a much lower climate footprint with no need for irrigation
To León—and others who support his project—it is a source of hope
León always thought he would become a fisherman
he studied culinary arts in Seville and had a remarkable career in gastronomy
becoming one of the most acclaimed chefs in Spains
He had always been drawn to maritime ingredients
but it wasn’t until 2018 that he first heard about Zostera’s edible grain and ancient past
the Seri indigenous people in Mexico collected Zostera—also known as sea wheat—in the Sonoran desert
They never farmed it; they harvested it from naturally-growing ecosystems
León could immediately foresee the culinary advantages this neutral-flavored sea cereal could offer
Then there was its nutritional value: A low-fat
Zostera’s grain contains 17 times more fiber than rice and twice as much fiber as lentils
which humans have cultivated for millennia
Aponiente’s initiative “is the first time someone is trying to grow Zostera in captivity to obtain its grain,” says marine ecologist Carlos Duarte
a distinguished professor at King Abdullah University of Science and Technology
León and Martín began looking for estuaries and abandoned saltpans
areas where seawater gathers and evaporates
They hired a team of scientists from University of Cádiz to facilitate learning how to grow Zostera in the Bay of Cádiz’s tidal marshes
and enlisted a professional shellfish harvester
León has invested over €350,000 ($380,000 USD) in testing Zostera cultivation in various estuaries along the bay
and his team is also studying how to grow Zostera in tidal marshes
They refuse to use fertilizers and pesticides
The goal is to revive these man-made ecosystems following Cádiz’s traditional salt farming techniques: Managing the hydrodynamics using walls and gates to control the tide
Duarte notes that these ecosystems naturally exist in the Spanish Atlantic as well
in the Bay of Cádiz and in the south of Portugal
is that centuries of human-driven coastal modifications have shrunk Zostera’s natural habitat
a researcher at University of Cádiz who is also growing the plant in captivity
has seen Zostera almost completely disappear from Andalusia (the southern Spanish region that is home to Cádiz and Aponiente)
“A few known populations remain in the inner sac of the Bay of Cádiz
The collaboration between the restaurant and the University of Cádiz ended in 2020
though each has continued their research independently
León’s project focuses mainly on “raising awareness with a fork” and communicating the sea’s capacity to fight food insecurity
The University of Cádiz researchers seek to cultivate Zostera mainly for conservation purposes
would involve protecting the existing populations
promoting its ex situ conservation by creating nurseries
and developing restoration and reforestation programs in areas where it was once present
That can’t happen from growing Zostera in tidal marshes
as these ecosystems are saltwater wetlands
What León calls Aponiente’s “sea pantry” is operational in six estuaries
The goal is to scale their formula for large-scale use
at which point they’ll go public with their research
This open-source mentality hasn’t necessarily helped find private investors
“But we don’t want to withhold that information
we want to share it so that everyone can grow this grain,” Martín explains
León’s initiative to bring back almost obsolete traditional aquaculture practices—playing with hydrodynamics to develop chemical-free seafood farming—is also a direct response to the urbanization of Spain’s coastline
over 15% of Cádiz’s coastline has been degraded since the 1960s
Agriculture and industrial activities have resulted in 42% of the Bay of Cádiz tidal marshes draining
Researchers estimate that almost all of the 129 existing saltpans located in the bay are now completely abandoned
“These ecosystems are very dependent on human activity and
they lose their environmental value,” says ecologist Ignacio Hernández
who directs the University of Cádiz’s biology department
Hernández believes in the importance of building a Zostera nursery to repopulate the area
it’s not as easy as planting and harvesting
but one that is limited to just the Northern Hemisphere
“That means that the plant is always going to be a bit stressed in water temperatures that are in the borderline,” Hernández says
He also points to the plant’s low reproductive capacity
Only 1-10% of Zostera seeds germinate successfully and give rise to viable seedlings
Once the seagrass meadow is established it can flower and produce grain without seeding,” Rivaes explains
Seagrass meadows are among the most profitable ecosystems
with an estimated value of between €30,000-35,000 per hectare per year
“much higher than the €2,000-2,500 per hectare per year of tropical forests,” he notes
Duare envisions Zostera’s potential domestication in the long run
he says all we can expect from Aponiente’s initiative are controlled plantations for food production—pioneering but largely inaccessible
all of Zostera’s benefits—including carbon sequestration
and habitat architecture—will have to be considered
rather than just its capacity to feed people
food production is unlikely to be profitable,” he adds
Despite its strong potential to mitigate food insecurity and the twin crises of climate and biodiversity
Aponiente Sea Pantry has yet to receive any public funding
But León is determined to carry out his initiative with or without aid
and we will share that knowledge so that everyone can grow it,” León says
“We will leave that window open in an uncertain future where humanity will have no choice but to open their eyes
look at the sea and understand that there may be grains in it.”
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The world’s thirstiest crop is also responsible for feeding half our planet
The Sustainable Rice Platform thinks it can make a better life for farmers and consumers alike
The Toothpick Company turns fungi into bioherbicide to fight Striga
a devastating “master weed” that has devastated an estimated 40 million farms in Africa
the Protein Challenge is aiming for nothing less than a total transformation of regional food systems
Empowering and uniting the protein system’s various and diverse actors to create change from within
Monarch Tractor has recently launched its first line of electric tractors with its groundbreaking MK-V model – the world’s first full-electric
Its CEO hopes the company is going to revolutionize the future of farming
La Mafia sits at the table lands in El Puerto de Santa María with the opening of its first restaurant in this Andalusian municipality and the sixth in the province of Cádiz
consolidating Andalusia as the autonomous community with the highest number of operating units of the group
The new premises has a total surface area of 270 square metres
divided between a dining room and indoor terrace
and an outdoor terrace with seating for 44 people
Suggestions & comments to info@food-service.de
Aponiente may be the only restaurant in the world where plankton is on the menu
and it certainly is the one where the notion of feeding the sea’s tiniest organisms to humans was first spawned
"},"children":[]}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" If you’re thinking
not more of this Spanish vanguardista molecular cuisine business,” you’re not wrong
I’ve eaten at Ferran Adrià’s celebrated El Bulli restaurant
and had imagined I was beyond the point of saturation with these multicourse
Give me a piece of grilled fish and some"},"children":[]},{"name":"paywall","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" veg
as the one dissenter from El Bulli orthodoxy among the star Spanish chefs once railed
"},"children":[]}]}]},{"name":"paywall","children":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Yet
I’d be mortified had I passed up the chance to eat at Aponiente and meet its master spirit
the man known in Spain as “the chef of the sea”
"}},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The New York Times"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" put Aponiente at the top of a list of ten restaurants it was worth a plane ride to eat at; in my case
having been on holiday in the neighbourhood
it would have been madness not to have undertaken the one-hour drive
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" I turn up at Aponiente
a small 32-seater restaurant hidden away in the Andalusian town of El Puerto de Santa María
a couple of hours before lunch and sit down at a table with León
His story is the classic one of the innovator whose talent goes unrecognised for years
despite the buffets of fate and the scorn of his peers
overcoming hardships and privations eventually to achieve riches and acclaim
He does not come from a poor family – his father is a doctor – but he was
which he left with dubious prospects aged 16
then went to work at a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Bordeaux
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" “I had always been hyperactive
but never found where to channel my drive until I discovered cooking,” he says
“I fell in love and poured everything I had into it
Even into the job I had during my first three years in Bordeaux: washing dishes
I scrubbed away like a demon because I knew that if I toiled hard
sooner or later I’d get my chance.” "}}]},{"name":"ad","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Within minutes of talking to León
who won his second Michelin star last year
the secret of his success becomes apparent
It is one he shares with the sainted Adrià and probably all those who triumph on the world stage
resolute and has manifestly more energy than ordinary people
making you feel exhausted just listening to him
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" The dish-washing ordeal in Bordeaux did end and he did get his chance
which consisted at first of menial tasks in the kitchen
at which point I returned home to Andalusía determined to set up my own restaurant
My dream was to cook food entirely drawn from the sea
from our sea here on the Atlantic coast and the Strait of Gibraltar.” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" He asked his parents for money to get started and at first they agreed
“Until they found out that I had blown a fortune on mobile phone calls from France to a woman I had fallen crazily in love with down here
kid.’ ” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Armed with his French credentials
at a restaurant that had come up with the novel notion of blending the best of the town’s ancient heritage: Jewish
He returned home three years later and this time his parents did help him out
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" It was then that he set his obsession in motion – not just to cook food that came from the surrounding sea
but to scavenge the depths for nutrients previously spurned by humans
species that the fishermen trapped in their nets but hurled back into the sea because they had no market value
or parts of fish that no one ever thought of eating (tongues
the unicellular organisms that occupy the lowest place in the planet’s food chain but are the font of all maritime animal life
"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd1","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" “It was ambitious and it was bloody crazy and my customers told me as much during my first years,” says León
I’ll make fish sausages that taste like meat.’ I said
can provide for all of us.’ I was radical in my beliefs
to serve fried calamari and other staples of the local cuisine.” The enemy of predictability
“If they don’t understand what you are doing
you’re in the vanguard.” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" “But for four or five years the outcome was that
even though we had six people working in the kitchen and seven in the dining room
we’d have days when only eight people came to eat
and started working with marine biologists at the Campus of International Excellence of the Sea
and we started looking at the possibilities of converting plankton into food on a plate.” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" León suddenly became familiar with a world of test tubes
beakers and white coats and discovered that plankton contained a density of omega-3 (the fabled fatty acid deemed by contemporary medicine to be essential to good health) that neither tuna nor salmon nor any other sea creature approached
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Employing a machine that León and his scientist friends invented
they turned plankton into powder and then a green gel
which has resulted in invitations to gastronomy conferences worldwide
and then the breakthrough came: his first Michelin star
after which the clients started to flock in from far and wide
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" I sit down at my table and the show begins: 22 dishes
each more surprising than the previous one
reverential waiting staff with impeccably choreographed timing
"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd2","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" We begin with what is advertised as one of my favourite dishes from the Cádiz region
Richly tasty and shockingly greasy at the same time
I usually eat them with a mixture of relish and guilt
seemingly oil-free wafer packed tight with shrimpy flavour
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" There then lands on my plate what looks like a mini hamburger
now wearing a priestly demeanour he had not displayed during our chat earlier
comes over to say is made with “calamari leftovers”
By that he means the innards that cooks normally clean out and throw away
which he has made into a sweet yellowy cream
“Sweet because of the algae they eat between May and September,” says León
who has done his homework with the marine biology boffins
“The rest of the year they eat a different kind of algae and the liver tastes salty.” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Next is the freshest slice of tuna sashimi that has ever slid down my throat
It has been grilled barbecue-style to give it a smoky flavour and is accompanied by bits of sea cucumber
Then the plankton starts to make its presence felt
first as a green emulsion in a dish of frozen sea water
then as the powdery sprinkling over an oyster
“It’s the plankton that gives the oyster its alkaline taste,” says León
“Adding the plankton dust magnifies its essential quality in the mouth.” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Then a couple of gelatinous drops of plankton are dripped onto my hand by a waiter with a pipette
You wouldn’t want to drink a bucket of the green stuff
one sweet – and allows me the virtuous sensation of imagining that I am purifying my bodily system
I can’t help thinking that before too long plankton will be added to the list of miracle foods – alongside krill and coconut water and what have you – that will allow you to live to 100
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Then it is razor fish wrapped in a leaf from the sea
followed by the meat clones León had spoken of earlier
made of such fishermen’s detritus as stingray
presented on the plate in the form of small racks of lamb or pork
and a white sausage stuffed with some other sea creature I had never heard of
all washed down by a huge variety of sherries from the region – from Jerez de la Frontera
from Sanlúcar de Barrameda – with no riojas or sauvignon blancs in sight
committed to the principle of delivering only local produce
Even the curry flavours in one of the dishes originate from peppers grown just across the water
a country with which the people of the Cádiz area feel an old and abiding kinship
"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd3","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" Gimmicky
But I feel from start to finish that I am enjoying one of the finest
and that by the end of it I have savoured the whole range of tastes and textures of the sea
try the new place to which León moved his restaurant a couple of weeks after I met him
airy old mill with tons of space that backs onto acres of abandoned salt flats where he will cultivate
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" At the new Aponiente the circus act will acquire a whole new dimension
There will be a small chamber into which guests will be taken where the chairs will move as if on a boat
where the sound of the ocean wind will be played over a loudspeaker
where the smell of the sea will storm the nasal passages and where
each diner will be asked to slurp seven varieties of plankton off a plate
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" But the pièce de résistance will be something that neither Adriá nor any other culinary showman has thought of before
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" “You know the tiny flashes of light you sometimes see in the waves when you go to the beach at night
I worked with the University of Cádiz people to figure out how to recreate that on a plate
What we will do is turn out the lights in the restaurant
bring each client a plate of liquid plankton and then
the staff will sprinkle a drop of lemon onto each dish
The whole room will shimmer with the light of the dancing plankton.” "}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" I’ve revised my position on vanguard Spanish cuisine since eating at Aponiente
You can’t get all solemn and bothered about this stuff
You have to enter into it with a spirit of adventure and fun
much as you might on a visit to Cirque du Soleil
bangers and mash and so on is what I’ll continue to eat on a day-to-day basis
"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd4","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" A 22-course meal like the one León served me is not meant to be consumed every day
Sometimes customers are so enthusiastic at the end of lunch or dinner that they ask for a table 24 hours later
I’ll need a year to digest not just the food
Of all the things I need to do before my time is up on the blue planet
Aponiente’s plankton light show is high up on the list
"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":" "}},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Aponiente
Aponiente may be the only restaurant in the"},"children":[]}]}]},"dropcapsDisabled":false,"expirableFlags":[],"keywords":{"type":"json","json":["the","best","restaurant","you’ve","never","heard","of"]},"leadAsset":{"type":"id","generated":false,"id":"Image:f748a707-4a9b-4716-b0d2-e204bbf7fa7a","typename":"Image"},"relatedArticleSlice":null,"sharingEnabled":true,"savingEnabled":true,"standfirst":"Ángel León’s Aponiente near Cádiz was empty until he started experimenting with plankton
his brigade and the front-of-house staff at Aponiente","credits":"Álvaro Fernández Prieto","title":"Ángel León
his brigade and the front-of-house staff at Aponiente
John Carlin tries the daily special – cod tongue and squid liver includedJohn CarlinSaturday November 14 2015
his brigade and the front-of-house staff at AponienteÁLVARO FERNáNDEZ PRIETOJohn CarlinSaturday November 14 2015
The Times If you want to eat like a whale but not feel stuffed at the end of your meal
Give me a piece of grilled fish and some veg
The New York Times put Aponiente at the top of a list of ten restaurants it was worth a plane ride to eat at; in my case
The dish-washing ordeal in Bordeaux did end and he did get his chance
from our sea here on the Atlantic coast and the Strait of Gibraltar.”
He asked his parents for money to get started and at first they agreed
It was then that he set his obsession in motion – not just to cook food that came from the surrounding sea
“It was ambitious and it was bloody crazy and my customers told me as much during my first years,” says León
“But for four or five years the outcome was that
and we started looking at the possibilities of converting plankton into food on a plate.”
León suddenly became familiar with a world of test tubes
Employing a machine that León and his scientist friends invented
I sit down at my table and the show begins: 22 dishes
We begin with what is advertised as one of my favourite dishes from the Cádiz region
There then lands on my plate what looks like a mini hamburger
“The rest of the year they eat a different kind of algae and the liver tastes salty.”
Next is the freshest slice of tuna sashimi that has ever slid down my throat
“Adding the plankton dust magnifies its essential quality in the mouth.”
Then a couple of gelatinous drops of plankton are dripped onto my hand by a waiter with a pipette
Then it is razor fish wrapped in a leaf from the sea
At the new Aponiente the circus act will acquire a whole new dimension
But the pièce de résistance will be something that neither Adriá nor any other culinary showman has thought of before
“You know the tiny flashes of light you sometimes see in the waves when you go to the beach at night
The whole room will shimmer with the light of the dancing plankton.”
I’ve revised my position on vanguard Spanish cuisine since eating at Aponiente
A 22-course meal like the one León served me is not meant to be consumed every day
Aponiente, Puerto Escondido 6, 11500 El Puerto de Santa María (00 34 956 85 18 70; aponiente.com)
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A suite of new regulations went into effect for DO Sherry that producers hope will pave the way for premiumization and push the category even further
“Sherry is one of the most mysterious places in the wine world,” says André Tamers, the founder of North Carolina-based De Maison Selections Wine Imports
The whole time you’re peeling layers
To substantiate Tamers’ metaphor, a further set of layers were announced in September 2021 for Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO and Manzanilla de Sanlúcar DO, when the region’s Consejo Regulador approved a major regulatory overhaul to “propel our designations into the future,” as president César Saldaña put it
the local authority officially greenlit the suite of new regulations
Some of the changes give increased rights to the region’s peripheral areas
Wine maturation will be granted across the entirety of the Sherry DO—rather than the municipalities of Jerez de la Frontera
and El Puerto de Santa María—and any vineyard will be allowed to apply for Jerez Superior status
producers will be able to better communicate the grapes’ provenance by stating a pago (area) of origin on the label
which indicates unfiltered and unfined finos
as the new regulations involve the return of six neglected local varieties
the creation of the new fino viejo category
the modification of minimum sugar content for both dry and sweeter wines
This major regulatory overhaul is designed to address multiple consumer needs
Not only does it provide drinkers with enhanced transparency and a broader range of wine styles
by embracing and promoting the premiumization of the sherry category
the new regulations also hope to increase sherry’s appeal to a younger generation of imbibers
we were very successful in positioning sherry as a drink,” says Saldaña
“One part of the strategy for the future of sherry is for it to become more of a wine
Everything we do has to be with the objective of repositioning [sherry] where it belongs—in the world of wine.”
the DO will see the return of six neglected local grape varieties: Beba
Producers will be immediately allowed to use the grapes both in blends or to make varietal wines
although Mantúo Castellano and Mantúo de Pilas sherries won’t be released until the grapes are added to Spain’s national register of winegrape varieties
Vigiriega will be this development’s real protagonist: “We’re still researching these varieties
but most probably Vigiriega will play a major role here as it seems to respond well to prolonged periods of drought and climatic change is increasingly affecting our region,” he says
this year we’ve picked Palomino grapes in July [28th]
The previous record was the 4th of August.”
Alongside an answer to the increasingly drier climate
the wider ampelographic portfolio taps into sommeliers’ and wine professionals’ growing fascination towards indigenous varieties
“I came across vineyards of older grape varieties there and I was really excited,” says Tamers
“I’m good friends with [winemakers] Willy Pérez and Ramiro Ibáñez [of Manifesto 119]
They are pioneers of going back to the roots and understanding the varieties that are most adapted to the region … Having local grape varieties is a good selling point
It’ll be good to be able to say to a guest that sherry is not just about Palomino Fino.”
The new regulations also end the mandatory fortification of sherry. In 2019, a proposal to allow the production of unfortified sherry was submitted for consideration yet withdrawn shortly after
the Spanish ministry recommended waiting until we could submit all our proposals in just one document,” explains Saldaña
“so we withdrew it because we [wanted to] reach a consensus in 2021 on this broader set of modifications.”
Unfortified wines were common across the region before the addition of grape spirit became the norm from around the 18th century onwards
Rather than to revive a historical practice however
Tamers—who already imports some of the region’s unfortified bottlings—believes that these sherries’ appeal lies in their enhanced sense of place: “We really need to start thinking of the terroir,” he says
we’ve considered them as sherry even if they’re not when talking to our customers
but it will be an added bonus if it says sherry on the label.”
this change needs final EU approval to become law
which is expected to happen between January or February next year: “We’ve already spoken to the relevant EU authorities and they anticipate no problem,” says Saldaña
Additional proposed modifications—such as the new fino viejo category and the pago labeling—are designed to encourage sherry’s premiumization process
“All the efforts we are making are towards the younger
more involved consumers who are interested in [premium] sherry and value the diversity of our offering,” says Saldaña
while sherry’s competitive segment has been showing a steady decline across the American and other key markets
the region’s higher-end offering displays promising signs of growth
and cream sherry categories—generally associated with the lower end of the sherry market—amounted to nearly 80 percent of all imported DO wine from the region
to the benefit of Jerez’s more premium offerings
houses are doing the opposite,” Saldaña admits
explaining the rationale behind much of the new regulations
“They’re complicating their portfolio because that’s what wine aficionados want
The revival that we are experiencing in some markets is paradoxically due to making sherry even more complicated.”
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and California—including one AVA that has already been approved—have exciting potential for the U.S
As vines are pulled and grapes left unpicked across California
fruit-forward profile of classic Provence rosé calls for reductive winemaking
but some producers are turning to a more oxidative approach to add complexity to their wines
There’s no right way to space a vineyard
but winemakers and researchers nonetheless have strong—and often opposing—views on the best way to approach vine density
Learn more about how Provi simplifies the complex process of ordering
and promoting wholesale alcohol between buyers
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The coast around Cadiz is enjoying a foodie revolution
thanks to a growing number of cool and innovative beach restaurants
The Basques have Juan Mari and Elena Arzak, the Catalans Ferran Adrià
and Andalucía has “el Chef del Mar” Ángel León – chefs who have put their region’s cuisine on the world food map
View image in fullscreenThe 46-year-old León is a celebrity in Spain. His fascination with sea rice and fish scales and his restaurant Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María have attracted attention to the Costa de la Luz
It is the only restaurant in Andalucía to hold three Michelin stars and has made people think again about the town on the Cádiz coast that
Perhaps efecto Ángel León is responsible for the recent proliferation of competitively good restaurants and beach clubs
the northern half of the Costa de la Luz – the 50-mile string of traditional seaside towns running from Sanlúcar de Barrameda south to Cádiz and on to Chiclana de la Frontera and Conil – is very much de moda
View image in fullscreenConil de la Frontera
Photograph: robertharding/Alamy“The gastronomy here has become more cosmopolitan since Aponiente opened,” says León
tartars everywhere … although innovative new restaurants are keeping the essence of the traditional seafood classics alive too.” León is also credited with a renewed interest in products that were considered “low value” like sardines and mackerel
pale sand beaches backed by pinsapar (Spanish fir) forests
this coast has always been a prime holiday destination for Spanish families
From Sanlúcar to Conil there are more blue flags – 26 – than anywhere in Andalucía
But it has remained below the radar for foreign visitors who visit Sanlúcar and Cádiz
then leave – often for Vejer and Tarifa with their dunes and cosmopolitan communities further south
In Chipiona, a 15-minute drive south of Sanlúcar, a white wood and glass box, Awa
at the foot of Spain’s tallest lighthouse on Playa de Regla
exemplifies the area’s new style of chiringuito (beach bar)
is a reminder that poor children used to be brought here for the beneficially high iodine content of the water
Now people come for Awa’s sea anemones on guacamole with turmeric and soy-cured egg yolk
he said: “The revolution has arrived in my town
with something more innovative … The rest will be forced to improve.”
View image in fullscreenExperimental seafood chef Ángel León
AKA ‘El Chef del Mar’They have in a way: there’s hardly a rickety table
plastic chair or €2.50 plate of fried dogfish to be found on this coast today; they’ve been replaced by stylish beach bars with Balinese beds serving artfully presented Asian-influenced seafood
The 19th-century tidal mill looks unreal, like a film setThere’s still variety: Chipiona’s Playa de las Tres Piedras has the full gamut from cool with cocktails to Hawaiian surfer vibe. The top choice is La Manuela Cocina Copas
for its high-end beach fare (langoustine gyozas
lots of tuna) and its joyful white-and-blue building
further south down the coast on the outskirts of El Puerto
the 19th-century tidal mill looks like a film set and is a magnet for food critics and top chefs from around the world
View image in fullscreenA dish at Puerto Escondido restaurant. Photograph: Pablo TerronWhen Alain Ducasse came to this coast, he ate at La Taberna del Chef del Mar
scaled down to match the tastes and budget of normal folk
The menu includes some classics – plankton risotto (€27) and marine charcuterie (€24) – and some gastronomic japes – patatas bravas that are really red prawns
Tucked up a sidestreet (Calle Puerto Escondido
with basic tables and a black skull’n’fish bones logo
but craftily sophisticated inside – like the food
Right opposite, in a 17th-century house and courtyard, chef Pablo Terrón runs the relaxed and eclectically stylish Puerto Escondido
like the marinated fish served on a half lime (€3.50)
The tartar de carabinero con erizo del mar (€10.50) is not to be missed
A 10-minute walk along the Guadalete River is Tohqa (Calle Los Moros
Housed in a former convent with leafy courtyard and punky street-art-style murals
they offer two fascinating tasting menus (€55 and €80) ending in a trademark dessert of onion and cream
Further along again, above Vistahermosa beach, there’s Ramé
set up by three friends in their 20s (including the chef Javi Navarro
featured trips and local tips for your next break
as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays
View image in fullscreenTohqa restaurant“There’s undoubtably an Ángel León effect,” says Terrón
“but there are several factors behind the rise in the number and quality of restaurants
along with more people discovering the stretch of coast and its great climate and produce.”
He’s one of a number of young gaditano chefs returning home with skills embellished by working away
says: “El Puerto ha vuelto!” (El Puerto is back!)
Standouts are the anemones with algae and oyster sauce and the bao bun of inky chipironesThe beautiful city of Cádiz across the bay is meanwhile enjoying its own gastronomic renaissance
with Código de Barra scooping a first Michelin star
But the ultimate in beach food is found further south
On the outskirts of Chiclana, Poblado de Sancti Petri comprises a couple of bars, a small beach with kayaks for rent, a boat that goes to the offshore castle, a huge naked Hercules statue, a small stage where Rod Stewart recently performed, and a restaurant, La Casa del Farero
and tables on the terrace are virtually on the water
View image in fullscreenBeef cheek brioche at Feduchy Conil, sister restaurant of the Feduchy Playa beach bar. Photograph: Julio GonzalezChiclan has one of the most spectacular beaches in Spain: La Barossa, a five-mile stretch of white sand. The restaurant creating a buzz, El Árbol Tapas
but it’s nearby and easy to spot because of the queues
its Costa de la Luz-Asian fusion tapas and raciones are created for summer days
Standouts are the saam of anemones with algae and oyster sauce (€2.80)
crunchy strips of langoustine with basil in a dipping sauce (€5.60) and the bao bun of inky chipirones (€3.90)
Read moreOn the edge of Chiclana, where the town gives way to fields and wild beach, is El Cuartel del Mar
it’s an old military base transformed into a dreamy place to while away the day by the design team behind the Azotea del Círculo and the Picalagartos Sky Bar in Madrid
You can just about wiggle your toes in the sand while enjoying ajo blanco con sardina ahumada (€14) and a tarantelo de atún (€26)
On Playa La Fontanilla in the next town, Conil, just a few metres of sand and a kiosk selling buckets and spades separate the family-run La Fontanilla restaurant, founded in the 1960s, and the strikingly modern Feduchy Playa (sister to Feduchy Concil, a few streets back from the beach), set up by three young friends
People talk about a food revolution on the Costa de la Luz
but nothing’s been lost: it’s just got better
Growing a business in today’s global economy takes skill
courage and a lot of hard work — particularly if your enterprise involves supplying carbon composites to multiple markets
Such is the case with Carbures (El Puerto de Santa Maria
a Tier 2 composite part supplier to Airbus (Toulouse
France) and a long list of additional aerospace
The company has grown significantly from its beginnings in 1999 as a University of Cadiz spin-off
working for Airbus on a resin cure problem (read more located under "Editor's Picks" on the top right)
its nearly 1,000 employees work in 18 locations worldwide
organized into three business units: Aerospace and Defense
headed by Raúl Garcia; and the company’s newest unit
all under the leadership of chief executive officer (CEO) Roberto Rey
Carbures invited CW to visit three of its busiest facilities
to see and understand its operations first hand
Two are part of the Aerospace and Defense group
CW’s first stop is Carbures’ 7,700m2 facility in Jerez de la Frontera
a few miles from the company’s birthplace in Cadiz
it’s considered an extension of the company’s original Technobahia prototyping and production center
built in 2004 a few miles away in El Puerto de Santa Maria
after its post-university startup period under its previous name
and began work with an Airbus Tier 1 supplier
The Technobahia facility obtained Airbus Military certification in 2005
and received its first Airbus work packages around 2006
more than six-fold expansion necessitated the new building
our operating budget\u2028was €1.3 million [US$1.46 million] with just the Technobahia facility
and by 2015 it had increased to €8.3 million [US$9.38 million]
We’ve added some significant customer parts to our workload over the last several years
To ensure a pool of trained workers in the region
the company works with a school in El Puerto
providing internships and training that counts toward classroom credits
Gonce identifies 17 aircraft customer programs currently\u2028in production
with parts ranging from longitudinal beams for engine cowls
and Sevilla-based Alestis are the primary customers
and 95% of them are cored sandwich construction
Although manufacture of layup tooling is currently outsourced to several tooling subcontractors
Jerez has begun producing its own trim tools (more on that
but plant manager Rosario Lopez says Jerez is starting to do some shaping internally
The tour starts in the facility’s lean manufacturing meeting area within the large
at each Carbures facility — a stand-up meeting is held each morning
in accord with lean manufacturing procedures
The goal is transparency across the workforce while ensuring implementation of quality procedures
Carbures Jerez holds numerous quality certifications — Nadcap in composites and ultrasonic inspection
ISO14001 — and process certifications from Airbus and Airbus Military
and at the two freezers used to store Hexcel (Parla
Lopez shows off the prep area where molds are cleaned and mold release is applied before transfer into an adjacent cleanroom for layup
more than\u2028 20 multi-person teams execute well-choreographed part layup processes
quickly laying up kitted plies previously cut on a CNC flatbed cutter from Zünd Systemtechnik AG (Altstätten
Lopez points out that each cut ply is identity-stamped before kitting
just one element that ensures the traceability that is typical in aerospace production for each part
prepped and bagged (bagging materials are supplied by Airtech International Inc.
tools are wheeled to the staging area in front of a 12m by 4m autoclave
(1.6m by 1.4m) autoclave also is available
“We are currently working two shifts
but can staff up as needed to keep up with peaks,” says Lopez
the monolithic carbon/epoxy curved structural beams — is moving to Technobahia for processing in that building’s 7m by 3m Olmar autoclave.)
cured parts travel to an automated C-scan nondestructive testing (NDT) gantry supplied by Tecnatom SA (San Sebastian de Los Reyes
100% of the plant’s production is checked
selected parts undergo additional pulse-echo A-scan inspection: technicians use handheld scanners from Olympus (Waltham
Lopez says that for selected Airbus A350 parts
new statistical methods have reduced the C-scan load
but periodic destructive tests are required in those cases
But if parts don’t pass destructive tests
“you have to retest all from the beginning
five consecutive [destructive] tests with good results.”
that means application of a Tedlar film or
that is currently performed by a subcontractor
\u2028A newly installed EPMM 25 CNC machining center (European Portal Milling Machine
Spain) is still undergoing testing but will be in use later this year
Lopez shows CW trim tool prototypes that Carbures will produce from Necuron epoxy tooling board (Neucumer GmbH
for which technicians use a laser tracker from FARO Technologies (Lake Mary
“Carbures Jerez has experienced an aggressive ramp-up rate for production,” says Lopez
“We’re currently at Rate 6 [six shipsets\u2028 per month] for Airbus components
or about 60% of our capacity.” Gonce adds that although the Airbus A320 has fewer composite components than other craft
and the plant will be close to 100% capacity in 2017
When queried about the potential for robotics at the plant
Lopez says that automated layup has been considered
“it’s difficult to make the numbers work
But we foresee resin transfer molding [RTM] as a potential.”
That approach would fit with Carbures’ Rapid Multi-injection Compression Process (RMCP)
an automated process under construction at the company’s Mobility facility (more on RMCP below)
Out-of-autoclave (OOA) processing of thermoplastics is another possibility
given testing currently ongoing at Airbus and Tier 1 customer Stelia (Toulouse
Illescas — part of the Airbus aerospace cluster
located in the southern outskirts of Madrid
is just down the street from the Airbus wing assembly plant CW visited in 2012 (read more located under "Editor's Picks" on the top right)
Carbures’ quality director for the Aerospace and Defense business (including China)
Illescas’ manufacturing engineering director
Previously operated as Composystem (where Jerez’s Lopez was employed)
it was acquired by Carbures in November 2013
Pastor explains that\u2028 the 8,600m2 facility
has a longer history than the Jerez facilities
“We have a longer chain of benchmarks and quality improvements at this location,” says Pastor
who adds that Carbures Illescas is an award-winning Airbus supplier
Pastor reiterates the importance of worker team communication and expands on Carbures’ lean manufacturing and quality initiatives: “We’ve implemented a program called SQCDP (Safety
which is in the process of being implemented company wide
especially on-time part delivery.” As one example
are posted on the lean meeting area wall; when a complaint has been rectified
“We’re now going to add a new letter to SQCDP,” he adds: “‘F’ for foreign object detection
and implement FOD elimination procedures that will further reduce our already-low scrap rate.” The Illescas plant also has all of the previously described
aerospace-required ISO and Nadcap qualifications
Although the building is almost 20 years old and
its processes nevertheless have been optimized to maximize output of mostly small
mono-lithic carbon/epoxy parts made via hand layup for the Airbus A380
Additional parts for the A350 program are produced for Stelia
One obvious non-carbon part is a complex-shaped
cored fiberglass dorsal fin fairing for the A380
the only fiberglass part produced at the plant
In front of the recently redesigned freezer
Pastor explains the “quality reception” process
in which small samples of incoming Hexcel prepreg batches are collected and tested
Plazas points out the “experience matrix,” a wall chart that lists every layup technician and each one’s length of service
This enables assembly of layup teams in which less-experienced workers are grouped with an expert
Layup kits are assembled from plies cut on a Gerber Technology (Tolland
“We designed an in-house nesting program for the CNC cutter to ensure minimal prepreg cutting waste.”
When layups are bagged and prepped for cure
Plazas explains that Carbures’ batch-cure strategies maximize the space within each autoclave and take advantage of their known heat circulation characteristics
years of experience have shown which parts should be placed on the upper or lower level
3.5m by 1.5m autoclave from Olmar is used in tandem with the larger vessel
are spot checked with handheld pulse-echo A-scan instruments and then undergo dimensional scans with a Faro arm or
Directly across from the NDT area is an enclosed quality laboratory that houses an Instron (Norwood
US) test frame and a dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA) tester from TA instruments Inc (New Castle
Pastor notes that two new machines will be operational by CW press time: a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) from Mettler Toledo Inc
US) and a tensile and compression tester from Zwick Roell Group (Ulm
to enhance the lab’s testing abilities
CNC trimming and drilling of cured composite parts also is outsourced
but Pastor says the process will be brought in-house soon
Some manual finishing tasks are completed in a small workshop annex
Pastor and Plazas say Illescas is at about 50% capacity now
“Our client’s build rate is becoming more intense.”
El Burgo de Osma — Mobility and automation
The Mobility facility is in El Burgo de Osma
a small town steeped in history several hours north of Madrid
CW meets Carbures’ managing director Roberto Rey and Mobility’s general manager
The latter founded the automotive system design firm aXcep (Munich
which was acquired by Carbures and combined with MAPRO
an automated assembly line/ machinery firm
and Technical Racing Composites (both of Barcelona
Mobility’s sales soared from €3.3 million (US$2.9 million) at\u2028 its inception to €39 million (US$44 million) in 2015
thanks to Neuhäusler’s and MAPRO’s deep auto industry roots
to 2014 contracts with Shenyang Hengrui (Harbin
China) that involve commercialization of assembly lines for autocomposite parts
Mobility’s quality and operations director
additional metrics are employed for automotive manufacturing
including OEE (overall equipment efficiency) and the system known as “5S,” a workplace organization system originally based on Japanese lean process development
“It means ‘one place for everything
and everything in its place,’ which has really helped our productivity,” says Gonzalo
“We will also start to implement Six Sigma methods in the near future
to ensure stability of our processes.” The facility anticipates obtaining ISO TS16949
a quality management certification for the application of ISO 9001 to automotive production
the International Railway Industry Standard
Our next stop is an area of the shop floor dedicated to an assembly project for automotive supplier Huf (Velbert
Patus shows two projects for rail customer CAF (Construcciones y Auxiliar de Ferrocarriles
Spain) involving assembly of mechanically activated emergency exit ramps for underground subway and above-ground trains
Although these projects don’t currently involve composites
Mobility’s chief design engineer Manuel Andrés Rey says Carbures in El Burgo de Osma is working with CAF to convert metal elements of the exit ramps to composites
is an automated workcell\u2028 that is a forerunner of the coming Rapid Multi-injection Compression Process (RMCP)
injection-based workcell developed and patented by Carbures
The RCMP is expected to be a primary means to fulfill its Shenyang Hengrui contracts
but the current workcell operates as a high- pressure RTM (HP-RTM) system for making complex structural parts
“The cell is equipped with a single resin injection port
and is making parts right now.” He points out an adjacent area
noting that it will employ multiple injection points
the new RMCP line will look similar to the existing automated cell
will produce up to 150,000 parts per year.” Patus explains that a building expansion over the next 18 months will make room for more RMCP lines and a new testing laboratory
“We anticipate that we’ll have four part-production lines by 2020 in Burgo de Osma,” asserts Neuhäusler
The existing RTM workcell takes automatically cut plies of carbon non-crimp fabric from an automated cutting table
The plies are robotically placed in a heated tool on the press shuttle
using a needle gripper-equipped end-effector
The tool is shuttled into position in the open press
vacuum is applied and the press closes the tool as epoxy resin
is heated by the delivery system before being injected together with hardener
the press releases and the tool is shuttled out for robotic part retrieval
The large needle gripper can handle a wide range of cut fabric sizes
in contrast to many workcells,\u2028the press’s operating machinery is located in a pit beneath the cell
Neuhäusler says the part demonstrated for CW is a test for automotive wheel rims
part of a composite wheel program in collaboration with 2elle-engineering (Trebaseleghe
or have a carbon/epoxy rim with aluminum hub and spokes — a better design in his opinion: “There has never been a homologated carbon wheel yet
because it’s impossible to detect damage.” Carbures is exploring the use of braided preforms for the wheel application
with braid supplied by Munich Composites GmbH (Ottobrunn
could include huge Tier 1 Faurecia (Nanterre
So what’s the takeaway from seeing this Tier 2 in action
Despite \u2028the sleep deprivation caused by the torrid pace of work at all three facilities
everyone CW met seemed up to the challenge of growing a Spain-based
the future looks bright: 2015 was the company’s best year ever in terms of total parts and revenue for the Aerospace business — 39,322 parts and €16.6 million (US$18.75 million)
formalized\u2028 a loan from Black Toro Capital (Barcelona
Carbures has a strong business plan geared for continued growth
Growing a business in today’s global economy takes skill, know-how, courage and a lot of hard work — particularly if your enterprise involves supplying carbon composites to multiple markets. Such is the case with Carbures (El Puerto de Santa Maria
our operating budget
was €1.3 million [US$1.46 million] with just the Technobahia facility
Gonce identifies 17 aircraft customer programs currently
in production
After a quick look at the repair workshop, where core edge sealing is completed, and at the two freezers used to store Hexcel (Parla
more than
20 multi-person teams execute well-choreographed part layup processes
When layups are ready, prepped and bagged (bagging materials are supplied by Airtech International Inc., Huntington Beach, CA, US), tools are wheeled to the staging area in front of a 12m by 4m autoclave, supplied by Olmar (Gijon
From the autoclave, cured parts travel to an automated C-scan nondestructive testing (NDT) gantry supplied by Tecnatom SA (San Sebastian de Los Reyes, Spain). Here, says Gonce, 100% of the plant’s production is checked. To verify the C-scan results, selected parts undergo additional pulse-echo A-scan inspection: technicians use handheld scanners from Olympus (Waltham
A newly installed EPMM 25 CNC machining center (European Portal Milling Machine
Finally, parts undergo a metrology check, for which technicians use a laser tracker from FARO Technologies (Lake Mary
“We’re currently at Rate 6 [six shipsets
per month] for Airbus components
Pastor explains that
the 8,600m2 facility
Directly across from the NDT area is an enclosed quality laboratory that houses an Instron (Norwood, MA, US) test frame and a dynamic mechanical analysis (DMA) tester from TA instruments Inc (New Castle
Mobility’s sales soared from €3.3 million (US$2.9 million) at
its inception to €39 million (US$44 million) in 2015
is an automated workcell
that is a forerunner of the coming Rapid Multi-injection Compression Process (RMCP)
the press’s operating machinery is located in a pit beneath the cell
Despite
the sleep deprivation caused by the torrid pace of work at all three facilities
formalized
a loan from Black Toro Capital (Barcelona
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endless promenades and a sun that comes out with the rage of the Andalusian summer
it reserves some of the best beaches in the whole country and many of them are only an hour or two away from Seville
Seville has within reach some of the most beautiful beaches in Andalusia
Attractive and unavoidable destinations year after year
Stock up on the basics and prepare a getaway to the best beaches near Seville
Matalascañas summons thousands of visitors all year round
a good amount of Seville and Seville people in particular
The reasons do not escape anyone: its proximity (possibly the closest beach to Seville) and family atmosphere
a beach that seems not to end and succinct summer beach bars
it also stands as a summer Eden wrapped in nature
A curiosity for the most absent-minded: the Torre de la Higuera
welcomes visitors since the Lisbon tsunami in 1755
The Costa de la Luz brings together a good number of beaches in the province of Huelva and Cadiz
shows a fine golden sand between bushes and small baths
Among its benefits are a surprising amount of unspoiled and quiet spaces for those who seek unexplored haven of peace
In the words of the prestigious National Geographic magazine Cuesta Maneli, between Mazagon and Matalascañas, is among the three best beaches in the country
rice with duck or chamomile are inserted in the seductive gastronomic universe of Sanlúcar
Valdelagrana belongs to El Puerto de Santa Maria and is one of the best beaches that Seville has in terms of proximity: it is just over an hour away
An authentic coastal paradise to which hundreds of bathers make a pilgrimage every summer
those who come on a day trip and those who stay overnight
extending their holiday preference in infinite days
Valdelagrana is summed up in fine golden sand
clean waters and spacious beaches overlooking Cadiz
But this beach town is not short of goodness: a good amount of beach bars
a quiet promenade and the Basilica of Nuestra Señora de los Milagros
a heritage surprise for those who pursue endless leisure and cultural options in their summer
Halfway between Tarifa and Barbate awaits Zahara de los Atunes
one of the undisputed jewels of the Andalusian summer
The Castle of Zahara and the Palace of Jadraza preside
along with the Parish of Nuestra Señora del Carmen and tuna are the main heritage values of this town in Cadiz
You will have more than enough reasons to go to its beaches
very extensive and divine to enjoy a summer day in the sun
a lively nightlife and fiery sunsets as to miss its beaches
so beautiful and close to Seville that it will take you less than 2 hours to reach them
The Fantastic Film Festival El Puerto de Santa María – INSOMNIA that starts today July 23rd its 3rd edition
will open with a free film music concert performed by the Dark Side Symphonic Band
which will be followed by the screening of the movie Game of Death
The program will include the following pieces:
Where: Plaza del Castillo de San Marcos (Puerto de Santa María
Facebook Event: https://www.facebook.com/events/1385946444882464/
Festival Program: https://www.facebook.com/insomniafestivaldecinefantastico/posts/1945388785494005
Discover a way to enjoy that music live in SoundTrackFest
Here you will find all the information you need to live your favorite Soundtracks and meet the Composers
Spain’s answer to SXSW is called Monkey Week but there’s no monkeys and it lasts for three days
We head to Andalusia and find a creative surge in full effect
El Puerto de Santa Maria is a flat and unassuming city in the southwest of Spain
A sea of whitewashed low rises frame my ride into the centre as we pass vinegar factories
bodegas and the whiff of industry that accompanies ports
It's certainly not the kind of place you expect to find one of the most exciting music festivals in the world but context is everything in this case
Monkey Week launched seven years ago as the brainchild of a couple of crazy kids inspired by the ethos and execution of SXSW
If it had sprung up in Barcelona or Madrid
we’d be talking about an entirely different - and probably less interesting - enterprise
Drawing together music from across the spectrum
Monkey Week is known nationally as the ultimate showcase event for new music in Spain - a "meeting point for independent music in our country," as the organisers describe it
press and artists to network but ultimately it's about watching some amazing bands in an amazing place
there are no monkeys here and it only lasts three days
El Puerto de Santa Maria also sits in one of Spain's poorest areas and the boost that Monkey Week gives the local economy - with a neat 4,000 or so people coming to town - can't be understated
garage to ambient; there's a real looseness to the festival's programme that breaks down barriers between the genres
Over three days we saw a lot of music and it mostly great
Of course when you're necking two euro quad-measure gin and tonics from a fishball
marked by the kind of invention and quality that raises the bar for a showcase festival
Full blooded RNB set against twitching samples and metallic beats
we have here a frontman who pulls from James Brown
Mick Jagger and Abel Tesfaye one minute and James Blake and Drake the next
It’s sexual in the way Prince is sexual with a dotted line to Run the Jewels and Zebra Katz
And if it’m throwing in a lot of references here it’s because I’m still so baffled as to just what John Grvy (pronounced "Gray") actually is
The Spanish response to everything that’s happening right now in left field RNB and experimental hip hop
There’s a darkness one minute and a generosity and joy the next
He encores by telling us how he was the "only black kid in [his] small town" and used to dance and sing Backstreet Boys' songs in front of the mirror - then delivers the best cover of “Everybody (Backstreet’s Back)” you’ll ever see
We see him play two sets - the second of which takes place in a beaten down 19th-century house
Someone tells me that the owner sells illegal antiques and you can sleep here for ten euros a night
We catch three sets from the Trajano! frontman’s new solo project [pictured above] over the course of Monkey Week and it’s a genuine surprise after hearing his roughly hewn music on record
Lois Brea Ares delivers deconstructed rock n roll with massive nods to the mid ‘80s
The Billy Mackenzie vocals rise and plummett with confidence and warmth - and he’s no slacker on the guitar either
it’s inventive and compelling to see the fresh-faced
beaming Ares muddle up influences and spit them out in such an interesting way
That may even be the theme of the weekend for most of the artists we see
Adrenalised twee finds a home in the deceptively simple psych and folked tinged melodies of Ramirez
I’m told the young Valencian was under the musical tutelage of ex-Posies/Big Star man Ken Stringfellow and his flourishing song craft owes a lot to blue-eyed soul as much as the DIY guitar sound
We don’t get a promised cover of “Thirteen” but there’s some affecting moments
especially when Ramirez breaks away from his bandmates for something a bit more stripped back
Perlirlta [above] grab me from the moment they open with a song called “Flash Your Ass”
Someone describes them to me a Hot Chip fronted by Freddie Mercury
It’s certainly a good starting point if you’re trying to nail down their sound but my notes say “garage rock on samplers and synths
It’s chaotic for a while then settles into something they might play at the greatest disco you’ve ever been too
I also wrote down “Dan Deacon Disneyfies the first Air record” which is perhaps a better description
All their songs sound like they’ve decided everything should be a 12” extend mix
I can’t find any music online so just take my word for it
Barcelona’s Ocellot plays preposterous mathy synth pop
wear glitter-capes and drape macaw feathers along the shaft of their microphone stands
It's distinctly uncool and thefore distinctly cool in a way that music at 1am should be when you're Jaeger'd up ten sheets to the wind
The floor is crunchy with test tubes from the free shots and the band are playing grindy loops that go on forever
In a drunken haze a bunch of us decide if New Young Pony Club shagged Battles after a night out in Newcastle the baby would inevitably grow up to be Ocellot
Los Nastys are veterans of the Spanish garage rock scene
compadres to The Parrots and part of the same Madrid scene that’s given us Hinds (who aren’t playing this weekend)
the four piece play scuzzy rock n roll delivered with conviction and effortless
They know that the moments between songs matter and plough through a set which doesn't give up
They even tune up like their lives depend on it
Tickets for this year's event were around €60
El Puerto de Santa Maria is brilliantly set-up to handle the event
which is spread across a handful of venues - some outside on make-shift stage (next to the stunning San Marcos Castle)
There's even a derelict house dressed up just for the festival (known as "The Happy Place")
More than 100 bands will come to town for the event
which kicks off each day around midday - and the music goes on well into sunrise each morning
It's one massive party you don't want to miss and a high point for the region
Our biggest mistake wasn't staying for longer and the only lowlight was the amount of stuff compressed into such a short event
Make up for it by getting there a day or two earlier and getting acquainted with the town first
Check out the Monkey Week website and Facebook page
Get the Best Fit take on the week in music direct to your inbox every Friday
From the gardens of Cádiz to the brutalism of Belgrade
our tipsters reveal the European cities and towns that got their senses buzzing
View image in fullscreenPiazza Maggiore
Photograph: mauritius images GmbH/AlamyWhen I picture Bologna
it’s always bathed in golden-hour light that makes its rust-red walls glow
But what lies beneath the surface bewitches just as much
Exploring the small and idiosyncratic museums of the university reveals ancient courtyards
Diving into hidden doors and arches leads to secrets – or food
Music and debate liven evenings in the main square
On my last trip I watched locals in impassioned discussion
but gladly accepted the cherries shared among the crowd.Siobhan Maher
The music is eclectic – daily Puccini recitals in churches or international rock stars playing the city squares or walls
Its labyrinth of medieval streets recall the past
maybe as a result of outwitting competing Italian medieval city states to stay independent
View image in fullscreenCity walls and harbour in Melilla
the Spanish enclave on Morocco’s northern coast
is a relic of Spain’s colonial past with a character determined by its geography
Facing the Mediterranean on one side and the Rif mountains on the other
and hemmed in by a terrifying border fence
Jewish and Hindu communities living side by side with a large force of Spanish legionnaires
The cityscape is equally diverse: streets of small Moroccan houses give way to wide avenues lined with art deco marvels; it’s even home to Africa’s only genuine gothic church
Weird really doesn’t come close.Digby Warde-Aldam
View image in fullscreenSkadarlija
Photograph: AlamyWe have just returned from Belgrade – unlike any other European capital and an unexpected pleasure
from the flaking but charming old town perched between the Sava and the Danube
to the new town with an astonishing array of futuristic modern architecture including mind-blowing examples of concrete brutalism
Wherever we went people were unfailingly polite
Public transport is ubiquitous and easy to use (who doesn’t like an hour and a half unlimited ride for 50p?)
making the city and its unconventional attractions easy to explore
and a great base for exploring the Balkans if you have the time and energy.William Gage
Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage
and everywhere the welcome was spontaneous and warm
We kept seeing trees and bushes adorned with red-and-white bracelets called “martenitsa” – we learned why when another custodian put a couple on our wrists
and Plovdiv certainly did that for us.Bruce
View image in fullscreenVicars’ Close
Photograph: Zefrog/AlamyEngland’s smallest city
with its clock which is famous for its 24-hour astronomical dial set originally for jousting knights to perform every quarter hour
purportedly the oldest purely residential street in Europe
Walk through the historic gates of the penniless porch to Wells market place
And go on a film location walking tour – the city has featured in many productions
View image in fullscreenTraditional Bosnian coffee
Photograph: Bepsimage/Getty ImagesThe most memorable city I’ve visited was Sarajevo
capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina and an incredibly beautiful
welcoming and culturally rich place with so much more to it than its tragic recent history
From the historic and fascinating bazaar – Baščaršija – that runs through the heart of the city
to the beautiful mountains that surround it
We encountered many kind people at the pavement cafes
eager to help us understand more about the hearty local food and the traditional Bosnian coffee
It’s not a city that seems to be talked about much
but it’s not like anywhere else I’ve ever been
Please use the comments to share details of fascinating cities that you’ve visited
This article was amended on 16 September 2022 because an earlier version referred to Plovdiv’s Roman amphitheatre, but as the picture showed, it is a theatre. A Roman amphitheatre has seats going all the way round in an oval; a theatre has seats more or less in a semicircle.
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the futuristic transportation company building tube-encased lines to zip passengers and freight from city to city at airplane-like speeds
according to people familiar with the situation
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We apologize, but this video has failed to load.Try refreshing your browser, ortap here to see other videos from our team.Play VideoArticle contentOnce a high-profile startup
Hyperloop One raised more than US$450 million since its founding in 2014
It built a small test track near Las Vegas to develop its transportation technology
and for a time took the name Virgin Hyperloop One after Richard Branson’s Virgin invested
Virgin removed its branding after the startup decided last year to focus on cargo rather than people
the company has laid off most of its employees
and is trying to sell its remaining assets
who asked to remain anonymous discussing private information
The business has also closed its Los Angeles office
were told their employment will end on Dec
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has backed Hyperloop One since 2016 and owns a majority stake
The startup’s remaining intellectual property will be transferred to DP World
Hyperloop One’s acting chief executive officer
also didn’t respond to requests for comment
according to a document reviewed by Bloomberg
the value of shares in most classes was written down to zero cents
and the shareholders of the shell company became the only owners of Hyperloop One
employees were told that DP World orchestrated the transaction
The concept was a tantalizing promise of a new kind of transportation technology — and an end to traffic
and Hyperloop One never won a contract to build a working hyperloop
The company also attracted plenty of attention for the wrong reasons
Co-founder Brogan BamBrogan once arrived at work to find a noose on his chair
stepped aside after Bloomberg reported on sexual harassment allegations against him
was arrested in Moscow on charges of fraud and embezzlement unrelated to Hyperloop One
Magomedov’s lawyer said he was appealing the arrest
Although no large-scale hyperloop has been built after years of effort
the concept continues to enchant entrepreneurs
Several hyperloop companies are at various stages of building protoTypes
creating a series of competitions for student-designed hyperloops and building a now-demolished test track
a tunnelling business that has pursued related technology
transmission or republication strictly prohibited
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Angel Leon spent hours fishing in the marshes of Cadiz in southwestern Spain -- and today the chef draws inspiration from this terrain for his three-star Michelin restaurant
has pushed the boundaries of seafood at Aponiente
squid cheese and mussel pudding at the avant-garde eatery in El Puerto de Santa Maria
a fishing town in the heart of the Bay of Cadiz
The sea is "an extraordinary pantry" that cooks often overlook
sporting a tattoo of a turtle on his forearm
"The problem is that human beings are always selective" in the products they chose to eat
who believes in steering away from the latest fashions and suggesting "everything we find" in the ocean is likely to be edible
who is also experimenting with new sustainable ingredients and innovations
is known in Spain as "el chef del mar" or "the chef of the sea"
Leon spent his childhood in the Bay of Cadiz where he would go fishing with his brother and father
Leon was passionate about fish and how to cook them
and decided to turn this passion into his profession
As a teenager he enrolled at a Seville hotel and catering school
then earned his stripes in France at the acclaimed Le Chapon Fin restaurant in the southwestern city of Bordeaux
in 2007 Leon returned to the Cadiz region and opened his own restaurant
His aim was to use the ingredients found in the bay for his menus
and the eatery struggled to draw customers -- until his efforts to use little-known marine ingredients were recognised in 2010 with his first Michelin star
He was also ranked by the Wall Street Journal as one of the 10 best restaurants in Europe
In 2015 Leon moved his restaurant to a tide mill dating from 1815
which he said he fell in love with immediately
located on the heart of the salt pan and exposed to the ebb and flow of the ocean
was then in a state of ruin and the adjoining land was being used as a garbage dump
Leon invested 2.5 million euros ($2.7 million) to fix up the building
which now features a contemporary decor that blends into the salt marsh landscapes that surround it
Being in the heart of the marshes "allows people to understand why we cook the way we do," said Leon
located in a region with one of the highest unemployment rates in Europe
The restaurant's success has inspired others
three other chefs from the province of Cadiz have been awarded a Michelin star
Leon says he is now determined to open the "minds" of other gourmets
He has embarked on new experiments to combine the protection of the environment with the search for new ingredients
exploring ways to adapt diets to the reality of global warming
Leon is trying to domesticate eelgrass -- a plant with bright green ribbon-like leaves that grows in coastal marshlands
which produce edible grains dubbed "sea rice"
The grains are packed with protein as well as fibre and omega fatty acids
while the plant captures huge amounts of carbon dioxide
Leon has so far succeeded in growing this "superfood" in the marshes of Cadiz
It is not the first of his marine innovations to bear fruit
along with researchers of Cadiz's marine research centre
which uses seaweed to remove fat from broths
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the bleached-white Andalucian city where the sound of flamenco hangs in the air
Paul Richardson is a long-time admirer of its dash and dazzle
hanging off the south-western edge of Spain and Europe
I was smitten many years ago and still feel the pull of its offbeat charm and weather-beaten beauty
this little-visited city is moving steadily upwards on the wish lists of discerning travellers
The feeling kicks in even before you arrive
straight avenue leading you southwards through rolling countryside
the air coming in through the sunroof already smelling evocatively of pine trees and sand dunes
the sea below is powder-blue with tufts of white
Pictured: the cathedral of Cadiz from the north tower
looking out to the old town and the harbour
that Cadiz could be set adrift from its mooring
float off into the Atlantic and nobody in the rest of Spain would notice
The city barely gets a mention in the Spanish media
except once a year at the start of Carnival - a curious variant of the festival
in which dressing up and dancing take second place to singing riotous songs that brutally satirise the status quo
The unemployment rate is one of the highest in Europe
reminding itself that even before the current global crisis the city was down on its luck and always managed to muddle through
Last year marked the 200th anniversary of a significant event in Spanish and European history: the Spanish Constitution of 1812
the third such after the French and American constitutions
Article IV contains the lofty declaration: 'The object of Government is the happiness of the Nation
given that the end of all political society is none other than the well-being of the individuals who compose it.' The 1812 Constitution was tragically short-lived
its brave liberal advances would be reversed by the absolutist monarch Fernando VII
marking the bicentenary as much an occasion for poignant reflection
I squinted over the Old Town roofscape at the neoclassical façade of the cathedral
its golden dome flanked by two bell towers and two graceful palms
flamenco music played from the tinny radio
Restorations and refurbishments were going on everywhere
The bicentenary did seem to be having an effect
but I wondered why so few Brits were in evidence
There are certain things I always need to do within hours of arriving here
the fried-fish shops that are a cornerstone of the city's gastronomic life
Another is to find a vantage point from which to get my bearings
Cadiz always needed to keep an eye on the sea
and every townhouse of any importance had a watchtower: of the original 160
which was once part of an aristocratic palace and is now a popular attraction thanks to its panoramic camera obscura
it is in all probability Europe's oldest continuously inhabited city
Columbus's second and fourth voyages were undertaken from here
But its true glory days were in the 18th century
when much of the maritime traffic between Europe and the Americans passed through the harbour
Cadiz was not only one of Europe's most cosmopolitan cities (a tenth of the population was foreign)
but one of its most literate: at the time of the 1812 Constitution
an estimated 40 newspapers were produced here
In his Travels through Spain and Portugal of 1774
a Major W Dalrymple wrote admiringly of its 'free and elegant customs'
its 'noble forms' and well-educated populace
a place where 'pleasure is greatly sought after'
demotic character lends itself to much imbibing of cold Cruzcampo beer and manzanilla sherry
preferably along with a plateful of something crisp
These establishments specialise in chunks of seafood fried
their floors commonly strewn with prawn shells
the freidurías of Cadiz are the equivalent of our fish-and-chip shops
but the tempura crispness of the product puts our national dish firmly in the shade
The process of getting to know Cadiz involves roaming the streets in a random manner
soaking up the atmosphere and tapas-grazing when the mood takes you
the stone gateway guarding the entrance to the fortress
making it a pleasure to stroll down long shopping streets such as the Calles Ancha
and to hang out in squares such as the Plaza del Mina and Plaza San Antonio
where the sea is a blue square in the near distance and the cries of seagulls mingle with the shouts of children
a few notches below that of 'mainland' Spain
there are certain things that are worth stirring yourself to see and do here
The Museo de Cádiz on Plaza de Mina contains at least two important items among its provincial grab-bag of artworks and objets: the two Phoenician sarcophagi
their cartoonish features belying their enormous size
and the series of Zurbarán saints from the charterhouse of Jerez are unforgettable in the chiaroscuro rendering of monkish robes in thick folds under the light
Don't miss the huge historical painting by local artist Ramón Rodríguez Barcaza
which represents an important theme of Cadiz's personal mythology - its plucky resistance against the two-year siege by Napoleonic troops in 1810
A good cultural route to follow takes in baroque churches such as the Oratorio de San Felipe Neri
and the Oratorio de la Santa Cueva on Calle Rosario
The latter has a well-prseerved 18th-century interior on two levels
crypt-like space in the basement and an oval-shaped
The artistic legacy of the Santa Cueva suggests the level of excellence 18th-century Cadiz was used to: Haydn was inspired by a sculpture here to write his 'Seven Last Words of our Saviour on the Cross' (1786)
and Goya painted The Last Supper which can still be seen in the upper chapel
(His vision of the apostles sprawling on the ground to eat
is surprising as well as convincing.) The chapel of Our Lady of Carmen is another baroque confection
located off the romantically decaying courtyard of the 18th-century Hospital de Mujeres
Its outstanding treasure is a magnificently gloomy El Greco portrait of St Francis
whose shades of dark grey seem out of place among the frills and furbelows and flying angels of this rococo drawing room of a church
I had missed the giant ficus trees behind the sea wall at Alameda Apodaca
and had never before taken the romantic walk along the stone wall snaking out into the bay towards Castillo de San Sebastián
Nor had I realised that within the confines of the fortress lay such distinct neighbourhoods as Santa María
though it has also gained a reputation for tapas in bars such as Taberna Casa Manteca and Casa Tino
There's even a street in La Viña where fishing rods stand like flagpoles on every balcony
as there is nowhere else to store them in the cramped little fisherman's houses
On the ground floor of a house on Calle Paraguay in La Viña
the doors and windows wide open onto the street
It wasn't the first time I'd been reminded of Havana here
Cadiz is twinned with the Cuban capital and acts as its double in films such as Die Another Day
in which Halle Berry emerges from the waves on La Caleta beach to the delight of 007
Cadiz's original urban nucleus - a warren of narrow streets around the cathedral - I came upon the ornate marble doorway of a palace known as the Casa del Almirante
but building work was under way on what will eventually become the Old Town's first boutique hotel
The city's biggest drawback in visitor terms has always been its lack of middle-to-high-end accommodation
The Casa del Almirante will change all that
I took my leave of Cadiz with another long look at another stupendous view
the long golden strand of Victoria beach was filling up with coloured parasols
a persistent whiff of fried fish - the fumes of all those freidurías - floated on the breeze
Hotel Patagonia Sur A simple, modern hotel in the heart of the action. Calle Cobos. Doubles from €85 (www.hotelpatagonia.es)
Hotel Duques de Medinaceli This chintzy five-star is across the bay from the Old Town in El Puerto de Santa María
Hotel V A bijoux hotel in the pueblo blanco of Vejer de la Frontera, with glorious views of the surrounding countryside. Calle del Rosario. Doubles from €199 (www.hotelv-vejer.com)
WHERE TO EAT El Ventorrillo del Chato Founded in 1780
this is possibly the area's finest restaurant
Aponiente Young chef Angel León, a creative seafood wizard, presides over this Michelin-starred spot. El Puerto de Santa María. About €130 for two (www.aponiente.com)
Albedrio This little place in the village of Zahara is run by three young madrileños
Bar de Tapas Garum The best option in the tapas hotspot behind the harbour
Taberna Casa Manteca This wonderful old place serves tapas on squares of greaseproof paper
WHERE TO DRINK Quilla This contemporary beach bar is a great place to sit
Bar El Faro de Cádiz A lovely bar specialising in superb high-end tapas such as fried red mullet. Calle San Félix 15, La Viña (www.elfarodecadiz.com)
Taberna La Manzanilla Unmissable traditional tavern where the sherries are extracted from blackened barrels. Calle Feduchy 9 (www.lamananilladecadiz.com)
Casa Balbino Don't miss the tortilla de camarones or the house manzanilla
Published in Condé Nast Traveller February 2013
Read about where to go on holiday in November