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At the height of the summer months, a little after 10 p.m., they turn west, transfixed as the sun melts into the Atlantic. When the sky lights up gold and fuchsia, some whistle, others applaud. This is sunset in Fisterra, the End of the Earth.
After nightfall, some climb back up the cliffs to sleep in the forest. Others return to the town. Those who remain on the beach crawl into sleeping bags nestled against the rocks, where, some mornings, local police wake them with orders to leave.
Some call them hippies. Some call them troublemakers.
They call themselves pilgrims — peregrinos, in Spanish — and come from around the world: Germany and Hungary, England and Italy, and places far beyond. They work in restaurants, panhandle near supermarkets and sell handmade jewelry on the beach. Most walked the famed 500-mile Camino de Santiago — the Way of St. James — and continued to this small fishing town on Spain’s northwestern coast.
Some have lived here for years; a few, just a week. They stay for love, for freedom, for artistic inspiration. They run away from families, drugs, jobs. Fisterra heals, they say.
No one can say exactly how many live here. Maybe 20. Maybe 50.
Their stories are similar: Once they ran out of land, they had nowhere else to go.
“I said I would stay two nights,” said Marge Ots, 41, an Estonian who lives with a handful of other pilgrims above a bar on Fisterra’s main road. “I’ve been here two years.”
The Atlantic surrounds Fisterra on three sides. To the east, a crescent-shaped beach forms a tranquil cove where snorkelers glide and fishermen set out their nets. To the west, austere cliffs hem in the Praia Mar de Fóra, a beach whose dangerous undercurrents have swept away countless swimmers. To the south, the peninsula tapers into a narrow, forested cape, where people gather by the lighthouse and watch the sunset each night.
Fifty years ago, the town’s geography made fishing a lucrative line of work. Residents dived for navajas — razor shell clams, so named for the thin shells — that burrowed into the sand. They set octopus traps on the seafloor and pried percebes — gooseneck barnacles, a regional delicacy — from slippery rocks during low tide.
‘I said I would stay two nights. I’ve been here two years.’
Ancient pilgrims sometimes continued on another 50 miles to the sea to wash their filthy clothes, but Santiago de Compostela was seen as the culmination of the Camino.
That changed in the 2000s. Camino associations and travel guides touted Fisterra as a gem on Galicia’s rugged Costa da Morte, the Coast of Death — named for the untold numbers of shipwrecks along its shores.
In 2009, 2,400 pilgrims visited Fisterra. A year later, that number exploded to 17,000.
Pedro, a French pilgrim who lives in Fisterra, chatting with two tourists in front of the Santa María de Areas church (Amador Lorenzo/For the Times) The town transformed. Hotels, restaurants and albergues — cheap accommodations for pilgrims — sprouted up everywhere. Today, about half the town’s working population earns money from the sea and the other half works tourism, estimates Fisterra Mayor José Manuel Marcote.
“It’s a change that’s been imposed on us,” he said. “It has changed our way of life.”The town’s relationship with its visitors is complicated. The walkers bring in money, but they often burn clothes at the lighthouse and sleep on the beach, despite prohibitions.
In this town of 4,000, everyone knows these peregrinos. A Frenchman named Pedro, whose knobby wooden walking stick and scraggly white beard give him the appearance of a slim Santa Claus, sells tourists painted postcards. An Austrian woman named Momo Gruss wanders barefoot and reads tarot cards from behind a shop counter. An Englishman named Quentin Grugeon tends to tomatoes and climbing peas at a local garden.
Pilgrims seated at in the World Family dining room. (Amador Lorenzo/For the Times) A Spaniard named David López runs the World Family, a bar where pilgrims gather for a nightly dinner and spend weeks — or months — as volunteers.
Gruss, who describes her age as “somewhere between 20 and 40,” walked the Camino in 2014 with her mother, with whom she hadn’t spoken in years. When they arrived in Fisterra, Gruss was immediately struck by the energy of the place, how life here appeared timeless.
After leaving Fisterra, Gruss, short on money, slept on friends’ couches for a few years, uninterested in returning to Vienna but uncertain where to settle. She couldn’t stop talking about Fisterra: its pristine beaches, the Celtic legends that seemed to give the town a mystical quality. Just go back, her friends told her.
When the seasons permitted, she slept on a mattress in the forest, surrounded by wildflowers.
“Here in Fisterra, the concept of homelessness doesn’t exist,” Gruss said. “People live in the forest. People live on the beach. You choose where you sleep. We’re all at home here.”
Christine Mack, a German, gave Gruss a job at her clothing shop, as she does with many young foreign women who end up in Fisterra.
One morning in 2007, when Mack had finished the Camino and was eating breakfast at the Bar Frontera, she met the owner, a Galician man. After a few minutes of conversation, he offered her work in the kitchen.
Mack accepted on a gut feeling. She would take a sabbatical from her desk job and stay six months.
Soon into her stay, however, she realized she didn’t want to leave.
A showcase for compelling storytelling from the Los Angeles Times.
“I was falling in love,” Mack said. She quit her job in Germany and moved to Fisterra to be with the bar owner.
Unlike the others, López, the owner of the World Family, never walked the Camino. He came to Fisterra on a bus.
Christine Mack attending one of her clients in her bar (Amador Lorenzo/For the Times) When he arrived in 2014, he was recently divorced, disillusioned with his job at a multinational tobacco company and mourning the death of his father. At the recommendation of a social worker, he worked in Fisterra’s municipal albergue for a few months, then moved onto the Mar de Fóra, where dozens of people slept each night.
The year before, 70 people had camped out on the beach in the tents. A group of locals had complained, and the national police ordered the squatters to leave. Pitching tents on the beach was prohibited.
But the next summer, dozens of pilgrims returned — without tents.
López loved life on the beach. There were candles and guitar sessions and group dinners. He felt part of a community.
López decided to bring the spirit of the beach indoors. In 2015, he and a few friends opened the World Family. Long-term visitors stay on the bar’s second floor; short-term walkers stay on the third.
David López, one of theWorld Family founders, collecting peppers in the community’s greenhouse (Amador Lorenzo/For the Times) Pilgrims volunteer in the kitchen, at the bar, in the garden. They share vegan dinners, paint murals, spend hours chatting on the patio. At night, the bar becomes a popular party spot, bringing together foreigners and fishermen. López and his co-owners make money from the bar and donations — but not much.
“This system is different than other places in Fisterra,” López said. “It is about what it means to be a pilgrim, not about making money.”
Next door to the bar is the Hotel Langosteira, and the owner, Paulina Mouzo, is wary of her neighbors.
During the beach tent bonanza, she says, locals didn’t like visiting the Mar de Fóra. Now, with the beach-dwellers nearby, Mouzo worries about what might happen to her street.
For years Mouzo had savored the neighborhood’s tranquility, but after the bar opened, her guests began hearing loud music late into the night. Sometimes, they heard people scream. Once, Mouzo said, someone vomited at the doorstep to her hotel. Mouzo, who lives in the hotel, had trouble sleeping.
“They aren’t hippies,” Mouzo said. “This philosophy, love and peace and coexistence, to live freely — they live freely without respect for the other.”
In 2016, Mouzo filed a complaint about the World Family to the town hall. Then she filed another. And another. “We continue reporting them,” she said.
Henrik Nielsens showing a few of his paintings. (Amador Lorenzo/For the Times) On a humid summer afternoon, Gruss stood barefoot at the shop counter, popping cherry tomatoes into her mouth and staring out the front window. Soft flute music floated from a radio. A Canadian woman who had lingered near the dressing rooms for hours strapped on her traveler’s backpack.
“I’m going,” she said. “Thank you for everything.” She hugged Gruss and walked out.
“She couldn’t decide whether to take the bus back to Santiago,” Gruss said. “I guess she made her decision.”
Gruss looked at her cellphone. She couldn’t remember the day, or the hour. She couldn’t recall what she did the day before, and hadn’t made plans for that evening. Time in Fisterra is marked by sunset and the town’s two seasons: summer and winter.
Fisterra empties out once the winter cold sets in (recent temperatures have been in the high 50s, cool but bearable). Unending rain pounds the streets. Hundred-foot waves crash against cliffs. Hotels are shuttered, some restaurants too. Few pilgrims walk through town.
The World Family cook serving a plate of food. (Amador Lorenzo/For the Times) The drifters move from the forest into albergues. They pass their days cooking stews, painting, waiting for the summer. And some, like Gruss, will decide it’s finally time to move on, or to return to the world of deadlines and responsibilities. That’s what she did just a few months ago.
Soon enough, other pilgrims will come to town, some expecting to stay a few days, maybe weeks. But for some, the weeks might stretch into years, and they’ll discover like so many before them that the real destination of their pilgrimage was Fisterra all along, that they were meant to be here, at the End of the Earth.
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When state and local dignitaries gather Thursday to celebrate the opening of a unique low-income housing development in Yachats
And there’s already a waiting list of 40 people
That’s how needed – and popular – the $6 million Fisterra Garden Townhomes project has proven
“They filled up immediately and haven’t been empty since Day One,” said Layne Morrill of Yachats
Morrill has spent three years working with state housing officials and pursuing loans
donations and tax credit investors for the project
It’s the culmination of a 10-year effort to bring low-income housing to the Yachats area – and probably his last
“I have no immediate projects” in the works
Nine units at the east end of the development were finished in early January and immediately rented
The remaining 12 were completed Monday and renters moved in Tuesday and Wednesday
of Eugene exactly a year to build the units
That’s almost unheard of in the construction industry
especially with challenges of building on the coast and trying to use as many local subcontrators as possible
“They’ve been absolutely tremendous,” he said
native moved to Yachats to be closer to her childrens’ grandparents in Waldport
Hudson pays $743 a month for her two-story apartment
She appreciates the numerous windows that bring in light and the secluded
“It’s a low-income place but they went above and beyond with the design
He’s been an attorney in Phoenix for 43 years
In 2004 he visited Yachats on a family vacation
built a home in 2007 and has spent summers and falls here since
In 2007 Morrill purchased 23 acres of land between U.S
In 2008 he sold the undeveloped plot along what is now Diversity Drive to Cascade Housing Group
which built and now manages the Fisterra Garden apartments
It too is a low-income housing development
Fisterra Garden Townhomes is an entirely different project
“As that project came along I became more interested in low-income housing,” he said
formed Our Coastal Village in 2009 and four years later finished the seven-unit Aqua Vista Square project along Highway 101 farther south
Morrill says when Aqua Vista finished he figured he’d tackle another low-income housing project “but not one this large.”
Financing the $6 million project is a complex mix of equity
Our Coastal Village has $1.96 million in the project
which includes large grants from four charitable foundations in Oregon and Arizona and money from investors
A private finance company is investing $2.3 million that it is able to sell to institutions for income tax credits
Oregon Housing and Community Services provided a 30-year
zero-interest $800,000 loan as part of a four-year-old state effort to build more low-income housing in rural areas
Washington Federal Savings Bank purchased $2.17 million in state-issued bonds for construction and will administer a $850,000 permanent loan
While Lincoln County was only able to contribute $10,000 to the project
Morrill said it has been “a big supporter.” The city of Yachats agreed to a 30-year installment payment on half of the city’s $98,000 in system development charges
The 2015 Legislature started an affordable housing program for low-income families by authorizing $40 million in general obligation bonds
The Housing and Community Services agency is asking the 2019 Legislature for $130 million to continue to expand the program
“The fact that Fisterra is rented out and has a waiting list speaks to the need
especially in rural areas,” Nicole Stoenner
legislative and communications coordinator for the agency
A study by the state and another by Morrill shows the need for 120 to 140 more low-income units in Lincoln County
Oregon’s program funded 1,259 new low-income units statewide in 2018-19
requiring projects be split 50-50 between urban and rural areas
But finding developers able or willing to tackle low-income projects in rural areas can be difficult
so the agency is experimenting with a program that links an urban developer with a rural project
It has one developer doing a project in east Portland and Hermiston
“There are just so few developers of low-income housing around here,” Morrill said
The 21 units of Fisterra Garden Townhomes are shoehorned onto just an acre of land – yet still there is a covered community pavilion with built-in barbecues
“It was important to me to make it more of a community,” Morrill said
“We managed to put 21 units on (the site) and still have a pretty neat backyard.”
10 two-bedroom units and two three-bedroom units
All the units are set aside for households earning at or under 60 percent of the area’s median income
ranging from $22,980 for one person to $32,820 for a four-person household
Rents range from $495 for a 328-square-foot studio to $743 for a three-bedroom 1,219-square-foot apartment
What makes the Yachats project unique among state-approved projects
is a “local preference” for families with children living in or one person working in Yachats’ 97498 Zip code
It has long been an issue among tourism-related businesses in the Yachats area that housing for their typically low-wage
seasonal employees was difficult to find and afford
When the adjacent Fisterra Gardens opened in 2009
most of its renters came from other parts of Oregon or the country
Morrill said getting the state to go along with the local preference was difficult because of its worry about violating fair housing regulations
Of the 47 state-funded low-income projects around Oregon
Fisterra Townhomes is the only one giving preference to local families
“They were opposed to it and dug in their heels,” Morrill said
“My goal was to get units for locals … they finally agreed.”
13 of the 21 Fisterra Townhome renters qualified under the local preference
“The zip code preference is unusual and special in this case,” Stoenner said
The local preference worked for Lois Ruane
who moved into her one-bedroom apartment Jan
Ruane moved from California to Yachats last May
rented space in a family member’s garage and quickly found a job at the Overleaf Lodge
She heard about the Fisterra Townhomes project
got on the waiting list “and stayed on top of it,” Ruane said
She already has vegetables sprouting in the greenhouse and a staked claim to a raised bed so she can grow her own spinach
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and has been found to reduce the risk of type 2 diabetes and heart-related conditions
Seagulls shriek, boats bob and the morning sun silvers the waters off the Coast of Death as two sailors take a break from winding up their conger eel lines to ponder the sudden interest in precisely what
Like many in the small Galician fishing town of Fisterra – whose name is derived from the Latin for land’s end, because the lonely peninsula on which it sits is about as far west as you can go in mainland Spain – Sito Mendoza and Ramón Álvarez are a little puzzled by all the fuss over the Atlantic diet
which survives in this north-western region of Spain and across the border in northern Portugal
has been hailed as an exciting and sustainable alternative to its better-known and more tanned southern cousin
the cluster of health problems that increase the risk of type 2 diabetes and conditions related to the heart and blood vessels
“We eat everything but above all fish and octopus,” says the 74-year-old local
Maybe it’s the climate but we do eat very healthily
The potatoes and the vegetables and the beans and the meat are all from here.”
with whom he once plied the Atlantic’s Sole Bank
chips in: “You need to keep busy; you need to keep moving!” Although both men retired in their late 50s
the conger lines they prepare in their wharfside shed
which can snag up to 700 eels on a good day
keep them occupied – as do Mendoza’s reminiscences of a long-ago fortnight in Newcastle: “Lovely girls
The centrality of fish to local tables and the economy is evident at the afternoon fish auction in the harbour market
offering glistening specimens of thornback ray
View image in fullscreen‘It’s all about fish – especially oily fish,’ says fishmonger Manuel Domínguez
Photograph: Sam Jones/The Guardian“It’s about eating what the sea provides and enjoying your day-to-day life and the peace and quiet we have around here,” says Manuel Domínguez
“It was all about the Mediterranean diet before and now it’s all about fish – especially oily fish.”
María del Mar Calvo Malvar, a clinical analysis specialist at the University hospital of Santiago de Compostela, helped put together the 2014-15 clinical study and is one of the authors of the recent analysis that found the Atlantic diet reduced metabolic syndrome by a third in just six months
sustainability and conviviality go a long way to explaining the diet’s health benefits
“This diet is characterised by a high consumption of fresh
seasonal and local foods – these are ‘zero-mile foods’ – such as fruits
“Fish and seafood are a basic part of our diet: in Atlantic gastronomy
we eat more fish and seafood than in the surrounding countries – three or four portions a week
View image in fullscreenA selection of fish
Photograph: Sam Jones/The GuardianShe says the Atlantic culinary tradition is characterised by its “creativity
and by the value it places on its ingredients; it’s about maintaining the essence of the ingredients”
Although Calvo acknowledges the Atlantic diet has many similarities to the Mediterranean diet – not least the heavy use of olive oil
the ubiquity of fresh fruit and vegetables
local and seasonal foods – she insists there are a few fundamental differences
She points to the Atlantic diet’s fondness for brassicas
which are high in glucosinolates – organic compounds that have been shown to help prevent certain kinds of cancers and other illnesses
“The same goes for dairy products – a lot more dairy is eaten in the north than in the south,” says Calvo
wine is more prevalent in the north and beer is more prevalent in the south
The culinary techniques are also different: there’s a lot of steaming and stewing in Atlantic gastronomy
whereas there’s more frying in Mediterranean gastronomy.”
Calvo and her colleagues are also keen to stress the social and familial elements of the diet
“It’s a way of eating but it’s also about sharing and enjoying food,” says Rosaura Leis
the president of the scientific committee of the Atlantic Diet Foundation at the University of Santiago de Compostela
a professor of paediatrics and the president of the Spanish nutrition foundation
warn that the diet’s inclusion of cheese and potatoes should not be seen as carte blanche to reach for the cheesy chips
“What we have shown in our clinical studies is that the dietary habits of the Atlantic diet are associated with better metabolic health and lower levels of cholesterol
lower BMI and less metabolic syndrome,” she says
“That doesn’t mean the ingredients on their own are healthy – it means the pattern and combination of these foods has healthy effects
it’s about following the advice we so often provide: a varied and diverse diet that takes into account quantities and physical activity and health.”
View image in fullscreenBrais Pichel
whose restaurant Terra overlooks the beach in Fisterra
Photograph: Europa Press News/GettyBrais Pichel
a young local chef whose Terra restaurant overlooking the beach in Fisterra won a Michelin star last year
says people in Galicia have always treated family meals
and the ingredients on which they are built
“It’s about the product and finding something to go with it
a grilled fish only needs to be cooked well and seasoned with the best oil
“It may sound a bit strange and radical – and they may kill me for saying so – but I think Japanese cooking is a bit like Galician cooking
Dr Dariush Mozaffarian, a cardiologist and the director of the Food is Medicine Institute at the Friedman school at Tufts University
has welcomed the trial results from the other side of the Atlantic
because ‘common sense’ around a healthy diet has in recent years devolved into raging social media battles over radical fad diets,” he says
“This trial provides important confirmatory evidence on what we’ve learned to be true over the last 20 years: a healthy diet is rich in minimally processed fruits
View image in fullscreenThe harbour in Fisterra
he remains a little sceptical about some aspects of the diet
noting that brassicas are no more likely to improve health than other combinations of vegetables
He adds: “One would be hard-pressed to believe that more potatoes would be a good thing
potatoes are linked to higher risk of high blood pressure and weight gain.”
Mozaffarian also wonders whether this might all be a case of old olive oil in new bottles
“This Atlantic diet is more or less a Mediterranean diet with a slightly different fashion style and dialect
those little differences are a point of cultural pride
these are two closely related cousins that we have trouble telling apart.”
But Mozaffarian agrees that the social aspects of the diet should not be overlooked. “Studies of the healthiest cultures, like the Blue Zones
have consistently shown that cultures that value family
friends and the integral role of food in nurturing these are healthier
Those thoughts – and many more – are echoed by Bienvenido Martinéz
a 55-year-old butcher from Fisterra who offers as succinct a summary of the diet as you will find
“It’s a way of living and a way of doing things: the Atlantic diet is a diet that relies on good quality ingredients,” he says
“We don’t rush things here … When we sit down to eat
The health benefits of the diet are reported to lie in its use of a variety of fresh, seasonal ingredients. These are the food consumption recommendations laid out in the Galicia Atlantic diet study
almonds and hazelnuts): 4-6 servings a week
a standard portion was the recording unit (eg a 250ml glass of milk
A portion of boiled vegetables was regarded as 200g
a portion of sugary soda drink as a 330ml can
(Source: A randomised, family-focused dietary intervention to evaluate the Atlantic diet: the Galiat study protocol)
Two Milbank offices and Galicia Abogados in Mexico City have helped energy company Saavi acquire a power plant in Jalisco from Mexican counterpart Fisterra Energy
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one of the world’s most famous pilgrimage destinations
with a spring in our step and no blisters to boast of
It’s 8am and the square in front of the Galician city’s magnificent Romanesque cathedral is teeming with pilgrims who have spent weeks walking here along routes that have been trodden since the tomb of St James was discovered on this site in the Middle Ages
They enter the city from all directions — but we are walking the only trail to start in Santiago
a route that pre-dates Christianity and heads out of the city to the sea."},"children":[]}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"The Camino de Fisterra is an ancient 100km way that passes through quiet villages and"},"children":[]},{"name":"paywall","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":" oak forests and along mountain paths before reaching the sea cliffs at Fisterra
as the Romans named the most westerly point of their empire."},"children":[]}]}]},{"name":"paywall","children":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Even before
it was a significant spot for pagans who travelled there to witness the sun “die” as it dropped into the sea
this was more than somewhere to see an awe-inspiring sunset
It was where the worlds of the living and the dead began to merge
where prayers and offerings were made to ensure the sun’s rebirth and benevolence
Both comment excitedly as we walk out of the city into the surrounding hills
as we head through farmland and eucalyptus groves before eventually crossing a medieval bridge just before the town of Negreira
the region’s capital and alluded to by Ernest Hemingway in "}},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"For Whom the Bell Tolls"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The Fisterra route is much quieter than the ways leading into Santiago
although some walk the extra four days to Fisterra or Muxia
farther north on the Costa da Morte (coast of death)
which earned its name because of the number of ships wrecked there by the stormy Atlantic waters
We meet a group from Ireland who have already walked 790km from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port in France
but then reached Santiago and thought: “Why not go the extra mile?”"}}]},{"name":"ad","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The extra mile is a whimsical understatement
but having walked various other stretches of the Camino previously and witnessed the congestion and the hordes queueing to get into the cathedral
I can see the appeal of ending on a more peaceful
less crowded way."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The route
gives you a distinct sense of its pagan past
and the links between the Earth and our survival on it are still very much in evidence
pointing to a tiny building on stilts with a cross at either end
or "}},{"name":"italic","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"horreos"}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"
a key moment is their first sighting of the cathedral
We glimpse it on our third day as we head down a mountain path towards the fishing village of Cee
a moment that also allows us the pleasure of being able to say: “Can you see the sea at Cee
Si!”"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Religion
maritime traditions and pagan beliefs mix in the folklore of Fisterra and the Costa da Morte
marked with the emblematic scallop shell of St James
where legend has it that a large rocking stone was the “stone boat” that carried the Virgin Mary to Galicia to visit St James
Others claim that it is just one of many stones worshipped along the Costa da Morte since pre-Christian times
when healing and storm-predicting powers were attributed to them."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"We take the path to Fisterra
heading down to the sea past several small villages and along an undulating coastal path
before it descends to the vast sandy sweep of Langosteira beach
where pilgrims have stopped to bathe since the Middle Ages
purifying themselves before the final few kilometres
but we manage a quick plunge before continuing to the town of Fisterra
the site of the altar to the sun (although there are no remains)
believed to have been built by the Phoenicians or Celtic tribes"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd1","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The cape is a few kilometres farther on
and here the end of the world is marked first by a milestone on which the figure is zero
then by a stone cross perched on the rocks beyond
but these days it’s frowned upon and it is enough simply to participate in the other Fisterra tradition — watching the sunset."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"We watch and try to imagine what it must have been like for Celts or Phoenicians who believed that this was the end of their world
witnessing the sun deity slip into the sea and die before its rebirth the next day."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Whatever powerful emotions that must have evoked
As we look across the vast glistening expanse of ocean
with its broad red stroke of sunset slowly spreading
my daughter muses on her forthcoming time at university."}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"For me
this walk with her to the end of the Earth marks the conclusion of a chapter in our lives; for her
The Camino de Fisterra package costs from €660 (£575)
including five nights’ accommodation and walking notes
spring-filled valleys and dramatic ridgelines of the Sierra de Aitana massif — from the crest of which there are sparkling Mediterranean views — have been somewhat overlooked by visitors (Gemma Bowes writes)
Exodus runs a rare group hiking holiday to explore them on foot
With 300 days of sunshine a year it’s a great destination for off-season too."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details "}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Departures run March to December and cost from £1,129pp
full board accommodation and five days’ guided walking
"}},{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"exodus.co.uk"}}],"attributes":{"href":"https://www.exodus.co.uk/"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Lakes of southern Switzerland"}}]},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Hiking in Switzerland doesn’t have to mean conquering 4,000m peaks
A lovely hotel-to-hotel walking route through the forested foothills of Ticino
is a low-altitude foray for pleasant strolling in the sun
Hiking between Lake Maggiore and Lake Lugano
walkers on a self-guided break can enjoy the region’s distinctly Italian-leaning atmosphere and cuisine
with time for gallery visits and gelato stop-offs."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details "}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Seven nights’ B&B plus four dinners and luggage transfer costs from £1,065pp and is available between May and October
"}},{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"inntravel.co.uk"}}],"attributes":{"href":"https://www.inntravel.co.uk/"}}]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"St Francis Way
Italy"}}]},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The Italian equivalent of the Camino is the route inspired by the life of St Francis of Assisi
following an ancient Roman road between Florence and Rome
chapels and olive groves break up the miles as you pass through Tuscany
Utracks has five new self-guided trips along the route
taking in different sections."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details "}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Six days doing the Citta di Castello to Assisi leg costs from £595pp B&B at agriturismos and three-star hotels
including two dinners and luggage transfer
"}},{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"utracks.com"}}],"attributes":{"href":"https://www.utracks.com/"}}]},{"name":"inlineAd3","children":[]},{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"The real Algarve
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a holiday along the Algarve Way starting in Alcoutim takes in unspoilt villages and six walking routes that are an extension of the GR13."}},{"name":"break","children":[]},{"name":"bold","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"Details "}}]},{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"A seven-night group trip
"}},{"name":"link","children":[{"name":"text","children":[],"attributes":{"value":"ramblersholidays.co.uk"}}],"attributes":{"href":"https://www.ramblersholidays.co.uk/"}},{"name":"break","children":[]}]}]}]},"summary({\"maxCharCount\":200})":{"type":"json","json":[{"name":"paragraph","children":[{"name":"text","attributes":{"value":"It feels strange and slightly wrong to be leaving Santiago de Compostela
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It’s 8am and the square in front of the Galician city’s magnificent Romanesque cathedral is teeming with pilgrims w","slug":"walking-on-the-camino-de-fisterra-to-the-end-of-the-world","categoryPath":"/travel/destinations/europe-travel/italy/walking-on-the-camino-de-fisterra-to-the-end-of-the-world-2sq72wxnx","__typename":"Article"},"Image:10b3006b-588e-4077-a7df-189177062502":{"caption":"The Camino near Fisterra
but why not try a quieter 100km trail to the sea?Lizzie EnfieldSaturday March 30 2019
GaliciaREINHARD SCHMID/4CORNERS IMAGESLizzie EnfieldSaturday March 30 2019
The TimesIt feels strange and slightly wrong to be leaving Santiago de Compostela
a route that pre-dates Christianity and heads out of the city to the sea
The Camino de Fisterra is an ancient 100km way that passes through quiet villages and oak forests and along mountain paths before reaching the sea cliffs at Fisterra
as the Romans named the most westerly point of their empire
It was also believed to be the final destination of a route marked in the sky by the Milky Way
Santiago de CompostelaGETTY IMAGESI am walking this way with my teenage daughter
the region’s capital and alluded to by Ernest Hemingway in For Whom the Bell Tolls
The Fisterra route is much quieter than the ways leading into Santiago
but then reached Santiago and thought: “Why not go the extra mile?”
The extra mile is a whimsical understatement
when healing and storm-predicting powers were attributed to them
believed to have been built by the Phoenicians or Celtic tribes
and finally just by the rocks beside the sea
The Camino crosses the bridge at Ponte MaceiraGETTY IMAGESLatter-day pilgrims used to burn their clothes and walking boots here
but these days it’s frowned upon and it is enough simply to participate in the other Fisterra tradition — watching the sunset
We watch and try to imagine what it must have been like for Celts or Phoenicians who believed that this was the end of their world
witnessing the sun deity slip into the sea and die before its rebirth the next day
Whatever powerful emotions that must have evoked
my daughter muses on her forthcoming time at university
Need to knowLizzie Enfield was a guest of Camino Ways (caminoways.com). The Camino de Fisterra package costs from €660 (£575), including five nights’ accommodation and walking notes. Easyjet (easyjet.com) flies direct to Santiago de Compostela
The real Algarve, PortugalPromising to show off the authentic side of the popular tourist region, a holiday along the Algarve Way starting in Alcoutim takes in unspoilt villages and six walking routes that are an extension of the GR13.Details A seven-night group trip, including flights, B&B hotels and dinners, costs from £1,365pp, departing October 10. ramblersholidays.co.uk
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Talented young people with their own projects are competing for the Balfegó Grand Prix Revelation Chef Award
which will be presented during the congress on 31 January
the Madrid Fusión team has scoured the culinary scene in our country on the trail of promising young chefs
Chefs with solid training whose work has caught our attention for their clarity of ideas
technical preparation and ability to anticipate the future. They are part of the valuable human heritage on which our creative cuisine
only one of whom will join the list of 21 winners of previous competitions. CARLOS CASILLASRestaurante Barro (San Segundo 6
Ávila)The young Carlos Casillas and the small group of colleagues who make up his team prepare a cuisine conditioned by environmental awareness and the culinary roots of Ávila and the highlands of Castile
Each of the dishes that arrive at Barro's tables finds a response in the wines that accompany them from its monumental wine cellar
Responsible cuisine that connects with the aura of fermented foods
SARA PERAL and JORGE MUÑOZRestaurante Osa (Ribera del Manzanares 123
invested more than two years in outlining a promising and challenging concept that is based on a line of thought that is not exempt from primitivism
meticulous control of textures and temperatures
and an insatiable desire to track down unique products
contemporary proposals that break away from fashions and routines. ALEJANDRO VILLAEl Café de Pandora (San Bernardo
Villa has established himself as a specialist in the treatment of fish and seafood
he has turned this family restaurant into a destination for fish lovers
He works with excellent pieces that he receives from the Avilés fish market
to which he applies imaginative or updated traditional recipes and with which he achieves precise cooking points
very fine sauces in which he brings out a veritable arsenal of technical resources
With the sirloin Wellington and other meats
he confirms his pulse on certain areas of classic cuisine.MARCO ANTONIO INIESTA and MARÍA EGEARestaurant Frases (Soledad
with the only support in the dining room of María Egea
Marco Antonio runs an inconspicuous restaurant in the centre of Murcia where he serves no more than 15 diners per service
are based on the local larder of the sea and the countryside
The work they both do with the small producers in the area is commendable.BRAIS PICHELTerra (Paseo de la Ribeira
the new representative of young cuisine in Galicia
displays his talent in a restaurant near the port of Fisterra (A Coruña)
he develops a gastronomic proposal subject to the limitations set by the territory
including the scarcity of fish when the fleets remain moored in winter
Pichel breaks with traditional Galician recipes to offer cosmopolitan dishes full of unexpected harmonies
The four tables in its dining room have become a place of pilgrimage for those who seek out different cuisines.ALATZ BILBAORestaurant Bakea (Olalde Berezia 1
Alatz plays the dual role of cook and expert metallurgist
grills and plates apart from his economical kitchen
is in charge of the dining room.IRIS JORDAN MARTIN Restaurant Ansiles (Ansiles
The young Iris Jordán is head chef at the Ansils restaurant in the Benasque Valley (Huesca)
she has a passion for game and poultry stews and bases part of her cuisine on the recovery and updating of traditional recipes from the valley
local and seasonal products are a kind of religion
Her knowledge of bakery and her mastery of various areas of the sweet world (pastries
ice cream and petits fours) give her a technical mastery that is evident in the way she resolves savoury recipes.
Follow us: Foro de Debate SL
Enagás and White Summit Capital to generate 237MW green hydrogen in the Bay of Algeciras
Enagás and White Summit Capital have presented a project that contemplates the start-up of a green hydrogen production plant in the Bay of Algeciras of up to 237 MW
This facility will supply green hydrogen to local industry
which includes large consumers of hydrogen and natural gas
In line with the provisions of the Hydrogen Roadmap of the Ministry for the Ecological Transition and the Demographic Challenge
this project will not only contribute to decarbonize industrial operations and power generation
but will also promote future uses of green hydrogen in mobility
both for vehicles and truck fleets linked to port activity
Likewise, green hydrogen could be used as one of the clean fuels in maritime transport
which is why the Port of Algeciras can be a key point in the supply of ships
Andalusia can value the renewable resources available for its use in the production of green hydrogen and its use in the decarbonization of sectors where electrification is not possible
This green hydrogen generation project in the Bay of Algeciras will facilitate the optimal integration of renewable energy resources in the region
Thanks to its proximity to the gas pipeline network
this green hydrogen could be transported to national and international consumers
environmental and economic benefits of the project
The use of renewable resources for the production of green hydrogen will make it possible to position Andalusia as a key region in the production of renewable energy
environmental and economic benefits for the area
One of them is the maintenance of current employment in the long term
by facilitating the local industry to meet its environmental commitments
as well as the generation of highly qualified direct and indirect employment
this project will help improve air quality in the Bay of Algeciras and southern Andalusia
and will position the Port of Algeciras as an international leader in the green hydrogen generation and supply market
Fisterra Energy, Enagás and White Summit Capital promote a project to generate green hydrogen in the Bay of Algeciras, June 21, 2021
OMV Eye Green Hydrogen Partnership This article was first published on Rigzone here OMV AG and Abu Dhabi Future Energy Co
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GE’s second HA gas turbine order win in Mexico will see the American OEM provide equipment
services and digital solutions for the Tierra Mojada CCGT in Guadalajara
will be responsible for bringing power to the grid by December 2019 and selling it onto the new wholesale electricity market
Blackouts across Iberia show vulnerability of ‘island grids’
Hybrid generation helps mitigate intermittency risks
JERA’s FY2024 revenue falls amid lower electricity prices
Taurus Energy to implement first AGP XPAND upgrade in Iraq
Avangrid helps restore power in Penn’ State after storm
Rare earths shortage risks to undermine the energy transition
BKV and Comstock to accelerate CCUS projects at Haynesville
Egypt-Greece interconnector to get EBRD and EU financing
has developed a new technology to capture CO2 directly from factory chimneys
The company will launch Series A round to roll out its solution on a large scale
aiming for a turnover of €200 million by 2030
May 1 – The Finish technology group has signed a services agreement with Aqualectra
the leading power generation on the Caribbean island of Curaçao
The 5-year accord will see Wärtsilä optimise energy generation on the island as Curaçao targets to move from its current 30% renewable capacity to 50% in 2025 and 70% by at least 2027
has reserved a site for a new hydrogen plant Oulu
the electrolysis plant could reach a capacity of over 500 MW
with the plant meant to be commissioned in three phases between 2028 and 2033
April 10 – As offshore wind becomes cost-competitive to fossil power generation
Germany’s Federal Institute for Materials Research and Testing (BAM) is developing a digital tool to help wind farm operators decide whether to continue operating older wind turbines or replace them
Modern wind towers generate up to 20 MW each
three to four times more than older structures
while fossil power station based on a modern gas turbine generates over 590 MW
April 7 – Tamil Nadu Power Generation Corp (TNPGCL) are planning to add 2,640 MW of power gen capacity in India
Main projects included Stage 3 of the 800 MW North Chennai power station
Stage 1 of the 1,320 MW Udangudi power plant as well as the 500 MW Kundah pumped hydro power project
April 4 – Larsen & Toubro’s Power Transmission & Distribution (PT&D) has secured new orders in India
it will install and commission a 765kV Gas Insulated Substation (GIS) and built a transmission line for power evacuation
Saudi Arabia's orders include two 380kV overhead transmission lines spanning over 130 km
while the UAE and Qatar contracts cover multiple GIS projects
April 3 – Siemens AG has agreed to acquire Dotmatics
a Boston-based provider of Life Sciences R&D software
The acquisition extends Siemens’ AI-powered product lifecycle management portfolio given that the US company offers highly profitable multi-modal data management for Life Sciences R&D
TÜV SÜD will showcase its services for electric utilities in terms of testing
inspection and certification for a broad range of energy sources
Suitability studies and inspection is on offer for wind power
April 1 – Small and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) in North Wales and Merseyside
are forecast to pay 13% more in electricity bills next financial year than their counterparts in London
this equates to nearly £19,000 more in bills on an average like-for-like basis
March 31 – Formation of the ‘Accenture Siemens Business Group’ was announced at Hannover Messe today
The two companies aspire to co-develop and co-market solutions that combine automation
industrial AI and software from the Siemens Xcelerator portfolio with Accenture’s data capabilities
has converted its existing coal-fired power plant to natural gas in the Morrow repowering project
utility replaced a coal-fired generating unit with an SGT6-9000HL gas turbine
and the repowered combined-cycle gas plant can now produce 550 MW of flexible power
March 26 – Hitachi Energy and Amazon Web Services have teamed up to deploy cloud-based solutions for utilities and power grid operators to manage the impact of vegetation on their business
Wild growth of trees and bushes can impact power transmission lines
while the data gathered from drones and ground patrols can be incomplete and disconnected
and real-time weather forecasts to help utility customers identify and mitigate vegetation interference and risks
March 25 – Wärtsilä will supply three 25DF dual-fuel engines for a new 18,600 cbm capacity LNG bunkering vessel being built for Spanish operator Ibaizabal
The vessel is built at the Hudong-Zhonghua shipyard in China
with the equipment scheduled for fast-track delivery to the yard in September 2025
The ship is expected to be delivered before the end of 2026
March 24 – GE Vernova’s Saudi engineers and specialists have led the first gas turbine outage at SEC's eight power plant in Riyadh
With a production capacity exceeding 1,700 MW the plant is vital for grid stability in Riydh and surrounding areas
March 20 – The global market for Carbon capture
utilisation and storage (CCUS) is growing at a rate of 23.1%
ResearchAndMarkets projects the market to reach $9.6 billion by 2029
account for more than half of global of CO2 emissions
and 20 countries account for 80% of the global emissions
March 19 – Korea East-West Power and E1 have sealed an agreement build an LNG-fuelled power plant in Yeosu
A 679 MW coal-fired power station is already in operation in Jungheung
which Korea East-West Power may well want to ultimately run on cleaner-burning gas
March 17 – YPF’s ‘Vaca Muera Oil Sur’ pipeline has gained Argentine government approval to enter into the Regime of Incentive for Large Investments (RIGI)
“With an investment of approximately $2.9 billion
this project will generate more than $15 billion in oil exports annually,” YPF President and CEO Horacio Daniel Marin said
suggesting the project will also impact dry gas production at the field
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Mitsui and JERA have mandated BNP Paribas to run a sale process for their 525 MW Valladolid gas-fired power plant in Mexico
according to two sources familiar with the situation
BNP won the mandate early this year and the sale process for the asset should start in the next two weeks
Valladolid is Mitsui and JERA’s last thermal generation plant in Mexico after the Japanese partners sold their 2,758 MW
five gas-fired power plant MT Falcon portfolio to Actis’ Valia Energy platform for USD 452m last year.
The SPV for Valladolid is Compañía de Generación Valladolid
The combined-cycle, natural gas plant has been operating in Valladolid, Yucatan in Mexico’s southeastern peninsula since June 2006, according to JERA’s website.
Chubu Electric Power Company acquired an equity stake in a company to construct
and maintain the 525 MW power plant in a joint investment with Mitsui & Co.
acquired Calpine’s stake in the project
which provides Mexico’s energy authority with power under a 25-year long-term power purchase agreement.
JERA acquired Chubu’s stake in July 2016
JERA and Mitsui did not respond to requests for comment.
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meaning ‘end of the Earth’ (Credit: Olivier Guiberteau)Cape Finisterre’s mythical pull has drawn travellers since the time of antiquity
the route to ‘the end of the world’ became all but forgotten
A simple bronze walking boot sits on a rock overlooking the immense vastness of the Atlantic Ocean
The snaking routes of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage convene at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela
the capital of north-west Spain’s Galicia region and the alleged burial site of St James
people have made their way along these paths to pay homage to the apostle
but for a small number of travellers who arrive in the hallowed city
• A perilous walkway fit for kings
• A 1,000-year-old road lost to time
• An epic hike of biblical proportions
The cathedral spires fade into the distance as the trail leaves the city and continues for 90km to the raging beast that is the Atlantic Ocean – and Cape Finisterre
this windswept corner of Spain has a spiritual history stretching back more than four millennia
Cape Finisterre is of course not the end of the world – nor even the most westerly point of mainland Europe as is sometimes claimed (Cape Roca in Portugal holds this distinction)
But Cape Finisterre is an area whose mythical pull has drawn travellers since the time of antiquity
by adventure or simply to stand at the edge of the then-known world and stare out at the Mare Tenebrosum
The small town of Fisterra sits above a south-facing promontory
a gentle hill with commanding views around it
Fisterra is like many other towns on this stretch of coast; wrapped around a quaint fishing port with a long beach curling east
an organisation specialising in information on the Camino de Santiago
Its eastern face gently rolls down into the town
while the western flank plummets dramatically into the Atlantic Ocean
Nestled in the undergrowth on the eastern side
lie the ruins of the San Guillermo Hermitage
It was at this same spot that the conquering Romans first set eyes on a simple stone temple built by the Gallaeci to honour the sun – the Ara Solis – consisting of four granite columns and a slender dome above
as described by Galician historian Benito Vicetto
which is believed to have been a place of pagan sun worship
situated at what they considered the end of the known world and facing the setting sun each evening
must have been a captivating and enigmatic sight
Word of the untamed land at the end of the world began to spread through the Roman Empire and beyond
and travellers began making their way to Cape Finisterre to see the site for themselves
It was described in Pliny the Elder’s Natural History written in 77 AD
and by Ptolemy in his Geographia in 150 AD
who initially used the names Nerium or Promunturium Celticum
especially during the 3rd and 4th Centuries AD
St James himself was said to have demolished the Ara Solis
and unfortunately one that is impossible to substantiate
the hermitage was built by a medieval traveller on the same spot
The earliest recorded pilgrim visit to Santiago de Compostela came in the 9th Century
and numbers began to increase dramatically during the Middle Ages as Christianity spread through the Iberian Peninsula
such as the supposed resting place of St James
There is much debate as to how many pilgrims continued on to see the sunset at the end of the Earth in medieval times
but by the mid-20th Century the path to Finisterre was all but forgotten
Only with the upsurge in popularity of the Camino de Santiago during the 1980s and ‘90s did people begin to appear in Finisterre again
The final few kilometres of the Finisterre section of the Camino de Santiago wind along the coast
ending at the lighthouse at Monte Facho’s southern tip where the bronze boot is
For those who have walked from St-Jean-Pied-de-Port in south-west France – the traditional beginning of the French Way
the Camino’s most popular route – these are the final steps of an 870km journey
A symbolic distance marker showing 0.0km sits just north of the lighthouse
behind which lies a wide craggy area that descends almost like a natural amphitheatre before plunging off the edge
This is where pilgrims would burn an item of clothing as an act of re-birth
small pieces of clothing are sometimes tied to the bushes squeezed between the rocks
If travellers from long ago did make their way to witness a sunset from the spot where the Ara Solis once stood
it’s likely that at the end of the day they pursued the climb to the summit of Monte Facho
three rocky outcrops lie among a sea of thick
The furthest north is known as Piedras Santas
the Virgin Mary is said to have rested after journeying to Finisterre to encourage St James in his apostolic duties
The view from the Piedras Santas is wild and spectacular
The cliffs drop dizzyingly to the Atlantic stretching out to the horizon
The Romans believed this area to be the gateway to the afterlife and where the sun went each night to die
You can’t go any further emotionally
spiritually and physically“There isn’t the same overwhelming amount of distractions as in other places,” said Carlota Traba
the water and the sunset – that’s the magic”
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this is a critical milestone in developing the Mexican power market and reinforces our commitment to the country,” stated Pedro Barriuso
”Tierra Mojada will provide energy in the most competitive manner
allowing for more reliable power to the residents and businesses in the region - thanks to GE’s state-of-the-art 7HA.02 technology
The power plant will feature two GE 7HA.02 gas turbines
two heat recovery steam generators (HRSG) and the latest plant control systems
The plant is expected to generate 875 megawatts (MW) of electricity with the highest levels of efficiency in the industry
helping to improve the stability of the Jalisco state grid
Jalisco is the fourth largest energy consumer nationwide
and despite its national importance only 11 percent of the energy Jalisco consumes is produced locally
Tierra Mojada will not only help power Jalisco but also the entire “bajío” region which is a key area of the country due to its industrial growth
the plant will produce the equivalent power to supply up to 2.8 million average Mexican homes
“The relationship between Fisterra Energy and GE is exceptional,” said Marco Vera
general manager for GE’s Gas Power Systems in Mexico
“We maintain a strong commitment to delivering the most competitive gas turbine technology in the power generation industry for the latest power plants being developed in Mexico and around the world.”
GE will also provide services to maintain the gas turbine, steam turbine and generators under a multi-year service agreement that will support optimum performance, efficiency and reliability of the equipment. The project scope also includes GE’s Predix*-based Asset Performance Management (APM) software that predicts and accurately diagnoses issues
optimizing the units’ operation and resources
this will help Tierra Mojada power plant operates at the highest levels of reliability and availability to support power purchase agreements
GE began its operations in Mexico in 1896 and today has approximately 11,000 employees throughout the country
GE announced the opening of Morelia Service Center
and repair solutions for generators and steam turbines for the Latin America region
GE Power is a world leader in power generation with deep domain expertise to help customers deliver electricity from a wide spectrum of fuel sources
We are transforming the electricity industry with the digital power plant
the world’s largest and most efficient gas turbine
upgrade and service solutions as well as our data-leveraging software
Our innovative technologies and digital offerings help make power more affordable
For more information, visit the company's website at www.gepower.com. Follow GE Power on Twitter @GE_Power and on LinkedIn at GE Power
*Predix is a trademark of General Electric Company
Claudia FormigaGE’s Power Services [email protected] +55 11 98367-7533
Tom MillasGE Power [email protected] +1 910 515 7873+1 910 515 7873
GE to provide digitally-enabled HA power plant and services for Mexico's Tierra..
Topography and toponymy seem to marry in Finisterre to define a place predestined to be a scene of sorrow
On this cape of the ‘Costa de la Muerte’ (Coast of Death) – where the Romans thought the world to end – a plot of land exposed to the tempests was chosen by the municipal council to be the site of the town of Fisterra’s new civil cemetery
Contrary to the idea of an enclosed necropolis
with walls segregating the inside from the outside
the project proposes to bring death closer to everyday life – not only on All Souls’ Day
The cemetery is above all a network of paths that stretches on down the cliff
unencumbered by boundaries and with the eternal presence of the ocean as the background
Opposed to the idea of the necropolis as an enclosed precinct
the cemetery of Fisterra proposes to bring death closer to everyday life
set up along a network of paths that stretch out along the cliff overlooking the sea
a fragmented complex of small constructions engages in dialogue with the horizon
that lead from the town to the mills where women once washed clothes
The physical references that marked ancient Celtic burials – sea
mountain and sky – are the intangible borders that stand in for the traditional perimetral wall
The image of the graveyard will be that of a walk
a footpath that descends the mountain to the very shore of the ocean
A counterpoint to this organic make-up of the terrain is the Platonic geometry of the cubes that accommodate the niches in groups
sharp-edged boxes are placed around freely
looking as if they had each rolled downhill and found a comfortable spot on which to rest
low walls and small squares conducive to contemplation and repose
burial takes place in constructions along the edges of the road
the mausoleum cubes are elevated from the ground to evoke the traditional architecture of the region
A concrete staircase is the only threshold between the path and the tomb
These modules are built in a way that stresses the simultaneous identification of the tomb with each of two primary forms: the boulder and the dwelling
Formed by joining large pieces of gray Mondáriz granite
the cubes appear partially buried in the slope of the mountain
thereby enlarging the cemetery’s dirt road axis into terraces at regular intervals
seem slightly detached from the ground – a possible abstraction of the hórreo
and other constructions of Galician tradition
A short staircase molded in concrete precedes every cube like a threshold
constituting the only barrier between strollers and mourners
The tombs are grouped together in granite cubes that
seen from the ocean look like empty boxes; while from the mountains
they appear as an integral part of the rocky slope
expanding the path with ledges for sightseeing
Colaborador Collaborator Miguel Ángel Rodríguez (aparejador quantity surveyor)
Contratista Contractor Construcciones Ponciano Nieto
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I can’t stop thinking about Pierre. I first met him at the end of December in a Finisterre bar much favoured by the hippy types drawn to the strange energies of the western coast of Galicia
I initially thought he was a Galician fisherman
But when I dropped a napkin on the floor and he swooped to pick it up for me
I was struck by this conscientious and unexpected behaviour
I’ve noticed a correlation between missing the odd tooth
having a weathered face and being open and warm-hearted
The next day I ran into him at a bar beside the small harbour
It turned out he was a Frenchman with Sicilian ancestry who had walked the Camino from Le Puy in France
covering 800 miles (plus he wasn’t stopping and next would turn south and head to Fatima in Portugal)
a peregrino version of Arthur Conan Doyle’s gallant Brigadier Gerard
And Pierre had truly embraced the pilgrim spirit
he had the back of one hand tattooed with a scallop shell
Covering the inside of his right forearm was the tattooed face of his cousin who had committed suicide and for whom he was offering up the pilgrimage
Next to one eye was tattooed a tear (for the cousin)
while next to the other eye was a star – Sirius
the first star that comes out in the night sky and which shines most brightly
the apartment and ‘smashed’ his mobile phone before departing
I saw Pierre standing alone on the bar’s veranda facing the harbour
His face was upturned to the night sky and both his arms were held out from his body with his palms facing outward
He seemed to be having nothing short of a mystical experience
Ever since I first visited Finisterre after doing my first Camino
I’ve been intrigued by Finisterre’s alternative
hippy crowd (which includes pilgrims who after arriving never left)
Pilgrims often continue there from Santiago de Compostela
as it marks the literal start point of the route; you can go no further with the great Atlantic blocking your path
These hippies have managed something most people can’t seem to achieve: saying to hell with the artifice
not giving a damn what people think and just doing what truly speaks to their hearts
One Finisterre transplant from Portugal described those drawn there as the ‘black sheep’ of society
having a weathered face and being open and warm-hearted versus wearing smart clothes
displaying perfect skin and a having a cold heart.Those more weathered bodies and souls also know how to put on a good party
as I discovered New Year’s Eve back at the bar where I first saw Pierre
At midnight they had me speed eating grapes: a Spanish tradition
with one grape munched for each chime of the clock (it’s hard to keep up)
with endless rats commuting to the office and typing away at desks
All the while they are sniffing out happiness in its advertised forms: having a shiny car
swigging alcohol and taking medication to relieve their blues
I found myself identifying with those rodents getting their tails caught in the closing Tube doors
I’m back in an office for the first time in a while
and I’ll likely be on another Underground train from Vauxhall to Victoria – and Pierre will be walking towards Fatima
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James Jeffrey is an editor for the Catholic Herald, a writer and a Camino guide
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As madrileños head for the cooler Atlantic coast
those in the north have given them an unflattering nickname
Galicia and Spain’s other Atlantic regions are becoming increasingly popular holiday destinations for Spaniards
as they turn their backs on overcrowded and overheated Mediterranean resorts in favour of the more temperate north
But while welcoming the income from tourism
Galicians have also given a nickname to what they see as their notoriously haughty visitors from the Spanish capital: fodechinchos
which translates literally as “fish thieves”
“A fodechinchos is a visitor who’s a bit of an idiot
but basically a cocky tourist from Madrid who doesn’t respect local traditions,” said Miguel Vega
a Galician who teaches English at the University of Barcelona
The Galician writer Ainhoa Rebolledo said a fodechinchos was typically someone from Madrid but that the term could refer to anyone from outside Galicia and generally denoted an ignorant or ill-mannered tourist
“The typical fodechinchos doesn’t realise there are tides,” she said
“In the Mediterranean the tide is about 20cm and here it’s a matter of metres
The classic fodechinchos gets their car stuck on the beach at high tide.”
Fodechinchos are also accused of insisting on a free tapa with their drink
a tradition in Andalucía but not in Galicia
and of complaining that the signage is in Galego
even though the Galician language is readily understandable to any Spanish speaker
The bar O Kan de Mera near A Coruña has put up a sign that reads: “You are entering a sector free of fodechinchos
No ordering of two rum and cokes and four glasses and a plate of olives.”
there’s a type at large who steals shellfish
is usually a bumpkin wearing Spanish insignia and says Madrid is the best place in the world although they escape whenever they can.”
The word fodechinchos originates from the practice
of throwing a net close to the shore to catch small jackfish (chinchos)
was then hauled on to the beach and the fishers would let tourists take a few home to cook
people soon started to take advantage and arrived with buckets to help themselves to the catch
farther east along the north coast in Cantabria
a young woman found herself being quoted in the national press after she tweeted her disdain for visitors from other parts of Spain
People from Mediterranean Spain “complain that the water’s too cold
They seem incapable of understanding that there are tides,” she posted on X
Next in her sights are madrileños who park their cars by the sea
complain they have to scramble over rocks and are apparently surprised that cattle are not the only thing in Cantabria
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“who act like they’re rescuing us from poverty when they buy a sandwich and then are rude to the waiter”
If one thing unites Spaniards from outside the capital
just as the rest of France seems to scorn Parisians
But people from Madrid are not the only ones with derogatory nicknames
people from Barcelona are referred to as pixapins or “piss on pines”
from their alleged habit of pulling over to relieve themselves at the roadside
Catalans are disparaged by some Spaniards as polacos (Poles) because they do not understand them when they speak Catalan
the equivalent of fodechinchos is a papardo
named after a fish that devours everything then disappears
while in Navarra they call visitors from the Basque Country robasetas (mushroom thieves)
A Yachats developer has completed a $10.9 million affordable rental housing project in Florence and has plans on the drawing board for two more projects totaling $22 million
will celebrate the opening of the 24-unit Oak Manor apartments during a ceremony June 13 featuring Andrea Bell
executive director of Oregon Housing and Community Services
With the completion – 22 of the apartments are already occupied – Florence has gained two affordable housing projects in the last six months
“This means that Florence has had 92 affordable housing units come online in the last six months,” Morrill told YachatsNews
The project is the nonprofit’s third affordable housing project on the central Oregon coast
Morrill developed two projects in Yachats — the 21-unit Fisterra Townhome apartments
the seven-unit Aqua Vista Square apartments
and years earlier sold the site that was then developed into the 25-unit Fisterra Gardens
three-story buildings on 1.23 acres just south of the Florence Fred Meyer store
Like most affordable rental housing programs in Oregon
the project was developed via a complex package of state grants
Our Coastal Village added $450,000 from charitable donations and the city of Florence coordinated a 10-year property tax exemption from local governments that helped lower rents by 5 percent
Six units are for households at or under 30 percent of the area median income with rent of $407 a month for a one-bedroom unit and $487 for a two-bedroom unit
Another 16 units are for households at or under 60 percent of the area median income with rents of $820 for a one-bedroom apartment
which also built the Fisterra Townhome project in Yachats
was the contractor and finished before the expected completion date
As ready as Morrill is to have the grand opening for his third project
he’s possibly more excited for his fourth and fifth – a combination affordable rent apartment complex adjacent to an early childhood learning center
Our Coastal Village is in the process of purchasing a 1.16 acre site at Greenwood and 10th streets north of PeaceHealth’s hospital
It plans to start construction on the 38-unit Elm Park Apartments next April and finish a year later
Chestnut Management is buying the one-third acre childcare property and Our Coastal Village plans to begin work on it in October 2025
The pre-school/after-school will have room for 56 children
The apartment project has an $18 million price tag
and the cost of the early childhood learning center is $4 million
Florence plans to use a $1.9 million state infrastructure grant to build utility lines
roads and sidewalks in a several-block area surrounding the two sites
The road will also provide access to a 3.55-acre undeveloped city park
Morrill said he got the idea for a dual project after watching the Legislature and state agencies develop programs to address affordable housing and childcare issues and the city of Florence “encouraged me to try to find a solution
“They’ve been great to work with,” he said
“It’s another push by the governor and the Legislature to solve the childcare crisis … which is as bad or worse than the affordable housing crisis,” he said
“And the Florence area is one of the worst for finding childcare.”
Our Coastal Village’s capacity is one project at a time
even though he has approached the city of Yachats about helping with infrastructure improvements to land it owns adjacent to the Fisterra Townhomes to build more affordable housing to the south of it
The 2024 Legislature authorized Oregon Housing and Community Services to issue up to $75 million in grants for infrastructure to help build affordable housing
The agency is developing a process that small cities like Yachats without the experience or capacity to deal with complex state grant applications can use
So good to read some good news about affordable housing
Bless these folks and what a wonderful thing for the community
It’s very refreshing to see a developer deliver low income housing and also have plans to incorporate childcare on a future housing project
We hear so many times how developers can’t make money on low income housing
We need more community minded developers like Mr
Layne Morrill has and is doing such service to help people have a nice/safe place to call home
Housing has become so out of reach for so many
It’s amazing how much time/effort he is willing to give to do something about it
“If ye have done it unto the least of these my brethren ye have done it unto me.”
Ventika Wind Farm is a 252MW wind farm being constructed by a consortium of Fisterra Energy
a subsidiary of Blackstone Energy Partners
the project will be located in Nuevo Leon in north-east Mexico
the $640m project will be Mexico’s biggest onshore wind farm as well as one of the biggest in Latin America
Fisterra Energy acquired the majority stake in the project from CEMEX, which will construct and develop the wind farms
operations are expected to start in the second quarter of 2016
The project will generate 1,000 jobs as well as an additional 2,000 jobs in related sectors
Mexico expects the project to assist in achieving its target of 35% renewable energy by 2025
The development was the winner of the Industrial Building Development category in the CEMEX Building Award and was also given the special prize in the Innovation in Techniques and Construction Processes section
The wind complex will be situated near the municipality of General Bravo in Nuevo Leon
Both the Ventika I and Ventika II wind farms are being developed on 3,800ha each
Each wind farm is installed with 42 ACCIONA AW-3000 wind turbine generators with a nominal output of 3MW each
The three-bladed turbines have a rotor diameter of 116m and hub height of 120m each
The blade length is 56.7m and rotor speed range is 12.3rpm
A 230kV substation comprised of two 34.5kV/230kV main power transformers and double circuit 230kV transmission lines is also being constructed as part of the project
The substation will be connected to the CFE interconnection switchyard by means of the 8.8 mile double circuit transmission lines
Concrete towers required for the Ventika wind farm are produced and supplied by a new plant set up by Acciona at General Escobedo
The project has an innovative concrete support system instead of a more traditional steel-core structure
Wind power generated by the wind farms will be supplied to FEMSA
Tecnológico de Monterrey and CEMEX facilities according to the Mexican authorities’ self-supply scheme
a subsidiary of Fiat Chrysler Automobiles US
has entered an agreement to receive wind power from Ventika for its manufacturing plants and corporate buildings in Mexico
resulting in a decrease in emissions by 140,000t of CO₂-equivalent each year
The project’s investment includes 75% debt and 25% equity
A syndicated loan in excess of $480m was provided by North American Development Bank
Banco Nacional de Obras y Servicios Públicos (Banobras)
Nacional Financiera (Nafin) and Banco Nacional de Comercio Exterior (Bancomext)
with Santander (Mexico) acting as administrative agent
CEMEX and private investors committed another $162m through equity contributions and shareholder loans
An engineering, procurement and construction contract for the wind complex was awarded to ACCIONA Energy. The wind turbines were also supplied by ACCIONA
which will provide operation and maintenance for 20 years
AWS Truepower was selected as independent engineer to assist in financing and construction of the project and also to function as energy consultant
It is also responsible for overseeing the construction
Fisterra Energy was advised by legal advisors Jones Day on the acquisition
financing and construction of the wind farm
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Largest contract for a turnkey project carried out by ACCIONA worldwide
which was completed at the end of 2015 and went into full commercial operation in April 2016
The wind complex made up by Ventika and Ventika II wind farms represents the biggest turn-key contract (EPC) carried out by ACCIONA globally
This milestone in the company's track-record reaches 252 MW capacity thanks to eighty-four AW116/3000 wind turbines with Nordex/ACCIONA Windpower's technology
features a 116m-long rotor diameter on a 120m-high concrete tower
which was installed by late 2015 and entered full commercial operation in April 2016
was built for a consortium formed by Fisterra Energy
It is currently owned by IEnova (Sempra Energy)
It was inaugurated by Mexican president Enrique Peña Nieto on September 12
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It was starting to feel rather spooky on the pathway to Finisterre. Only two days before I’d been in the celebratory environs of Santiago de Compostela with its endless arrivals of jubilant pilgrims
Now dark clouds were scudding across the Galician hills in the distance and the only sound I could hear was the wind blowing – in an accusatory manner
While Santiago de Compostela marks the official end of the famous Camino de Santiago pilgrimage
with the purported remains of St James the apostle in the basement of its cathedral
a minority of hardy souls continue for another 86 kilometres to the Galician coast
Their destination is the small fishing town of Finisterre and the surrounding cape
which exists as the mysterious pagan sibling lurking in the shadows of the Camino trail and its Christian virtues
In ancient times Finisterre was viewed as the end of the known world
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The oil spill from the now-sunken tanker Prestige off the coast of Galicia is affecting one of the most beautiful and spectacular parts of the Spanish coastline
The spill is destroying the ecosystems of Costa da Morte and Cabo Fisterra
and creating a real drama for many families in this rural area living primarily from fishing
More than 130 kilometres of coastline have already been hit
The environmental disaster area stretches from Seixo Blanco near el Ferrol to Fisterra
including the whole Costa da Morte and the estuaries
is known for the unique beauty of its land and the extraordinary diversity of its nature
further aggravating the situation and spreading the environmental disaster to the many low estuaries in the area
The environmental damage is already immense
The affected area has a large number of protected habitats that make up the NATURA 2000 network in the Region of Galicia
including the Costa da Morte (several locations)
There is concern about the fate of rock ecosystems (e.g
the Cies Islands and the rocky coastlines in the area)
and especially about the coral and sponge colonies
Also affected are the rich tidal zones (eg
the Umia-Grove tidal area) and the estuaries
and wetlands that are protected habitats under the Ramsar Convention (e.g
At least 250 birds of 18 different species have already been affected by the slick
The impact is likely to be greater still given that it is now high season for migration of birds that nest in the United Kingdom and France
During the winter the Costa da Morte is home to large colonies of birds because of its plentiful supply of food
As a result of the spill an order has been issued prohibiting fishing and catching of shrimp and other seafood in the settlements of Seixo Blanco
Some 5,000 households that base their livelihood on fishing - small net and tackle fishermen
and shrimp and seafood collectors - could be affected
The negative effect will be especially harsh since the period around Christmas is the time of highest income from catching seafood and fish
Many of these families have no other means of subsistence and have thus been deprived of their means of making a living by the disaster
The landscapes and natural beauty of the area also form the basis of a well-established rural tourism sector which brings additional resources to the local economy
This Christmas and the upcoming tourist season are likely to see a strong drop in tourism and visits as a result of the spill
Prepared by European Topic Centre on Terrestrial Environment
For references, please go to https://www.eea.europa.eu/highlights/Ann1037955953 or scan the QR code
NewGen Energy is hoping that its new project
a carbon-neutral/green hydrogen production facility
will create a new revenue stream for the country
“One that stands out in particular is the project’s creation of a new revenue stream to T&TEC from NewGen
This is achieved through recovery and monetisation of previously untapped heat – some might say excess heat – generated by simple cycle power plants
“This additional source of hydrogen is generated from an existing and unused heat source that does not require a single extra molecule of natural gas in its production – and will displace about 5.5 billion cubic feet of natural gas annually
or 137 billion cubic feet of gas over the project’s 25-year period
that can be redeployed (and sold) by NGC elsewhere
This is the equivalent of a small pool of gas
A move into carbon-neutral/green hydrogen production would mean the use of heat and other carbon-neutral or “green” energy sources to produce hydrogen
Julien noted that TT has an established and integrated hydrogen market through the steam methane reforming of natural gas and the work it is soon to engage in can result in significant carbon-dioxide emission reductions
“What’s also significant is that the project realises approximately 180,000-250,000 tonnes per year of carbon dioxide emission reduction
This would be a 15 per cent carbon-footprint reduction of the TrinGen facility.”
The energy sector has embarked on new deals for hydrogen development
with international partnerships that would construct the facility
“NewGen is currently on target to enter into the preliminary front-end engineering design (pre-Feed) phase of a US$300 million greenfield Point Lisas project in the second quarter of this year 2021
and the Feed phase of the project in the third quarter of 2021.”
Julien said benefits for the local sector included 100 per cent local ownership by NewGen and locally based investors and investments
also has plans to explore a number of decarbonisation and green project opportunities
NewGen-Kenesjay Green has partnered with Spanish company Fisterra Energy
Fisterra and KGL will work together to finalise the technical and commercial arrangements for the NewGen project
government – all of us – to pull in the same decarbonised direction that this project needs."