Reporting for this story was supported by Journalismfund Europe under the Earth Investigations Programme GALICIA, Spain — The first sleepy rays of morning light are starting to illuminate the beach of Cambados a small Atlantic-facing town in the Spanish region of Galicia that’s famous for its shellfish and Albariño wine It’s a rainy morning in March and the mariscadoras — women shellfish pickers — are wading straight into the ocean armed with buckets and rubber boots for another day of work the tradition that has been passed down through generations of women and us too,” says Patricia Piñeiro between wind gusts and rain as she searches for clams big enough to harvest showing the measuring device from the local fishing authorities set to 4 centimeters (1.5 inches) which means she must return most of the clams she finds to the ocean “At this pace, the almeja fina [Ruditapes decussatus] and almeja babosa [Venerupis corrugata] will disappear,” says Maria José Cacabelos Domínguez a retired mariscadora who now organizes tours for people wanting to see the shellfish pickers in action an association of women in the fishing sector The lack of shellfish is now pushing many to take precarious informal jobs cleaning hotels or working in bars Besides sustaining livelihoods, shellfish play a vital role in regulating marine ecosystems they clean the water they live in by removing nitrogen making them an environmentally sustainable source of nutrient-dense protein A 2023 study from the local University of Vigo shows that the four main species of clams and cockles harvested in Galicia has proved to be more resilient to rising temperatures is vulnerable to prolonged periods of low salinity caused by heavy rains many of Galicia’s shellfish associations temporarily ceased activities to help stocks recover That includes the mariscadoras from the nearby town of Vilanova de Arousa They now receive a little more than 1,000 euros ($1,073) a month in government support who previously headed the town’s fishing guild the requirements are strict — those working a second job are often denied compensation — and payments are often delayed Rodriguez and her fellow mariscadoras of Illa de Arousa were among the last to quit working and they are now in the process of applying for monthly government support they are struggling to pick even 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) of almeja japónica You can’t even pay your social security fees at the end of the month,” Rodriguez says “[A] lot of people have already left to go work on land because this is unsustainable.” Mass mortality events such as the one in December are likely to become more common as global warming disrupts rainfall patterns The problem is when that rain accumulates over a few days,” says Elsa Vázquez a University of Vigo zoologist who studies how changes in salinity and temperature affect the main shellfish species harvested in Rías Baixas the four productive estuaries in southwestern Galicia Torrential rainfall increases the amount of freshwater flowing from the river mouths into the estuaries, where the shellfish banks are located. Prolonged periods of low salinity affect bivalves’ ability to breathe Shellfish can close their valves during periods of low salinity to protect themselves but this uses up precious energy and weakens them Between October and November 2023, Galicia’s weather agency recorded more than 30 consecutive days of rainfall yielding more than 1,000 liters of rain per square meter (264 gallons per 10.7 square feet) — 127% more than normal salinity below 15 parts per thousand for several days causes mortality and this winter there were many days when salinity was as low as five parts per thousand,” Vázquez says The emptying of reservoirs during low tide by electricity companies also alters the estuaries’ delicate balance According to the Platform for the Defense of the Ría de Arousa the release of water should be timed to coincide with high tide to avoid freshwater inundating the shellfish banks a clear sign of global warming with significant implications for biodiversity Intertidal shellfish species bury themselves in the sand to keep cool but with heat waves becoming more intense the heat penetrates deeper which affects their growth and reproductive capacity Numerous shellfish pickers told Mongabay they want the Galician government to fund an in-depth study on the impacts of climate change to help inform potential solutions. Scientific models suggest 2060 could be a global tipping point for shellfish in many regions of the world with fisheries in Spain at high risk due to low species diversity and vulnerability to increased temperatures The development of clam hatcheries could be a solution While some commercial hatcheries exist for almeja japónica growing baby clams to be planted out on sandbanks more research is needed to cultivate almeja fina and babosa profitably She describes this as “the future of shellfishing” for its potential to establish enough reproducing adult shellfish to get stocks back to normal Another solution being explored is the real-time monitoring of salinity temperature and other variables in the shellfish banks This could help researchers create predictive models so mariscadoras could prepare for periods of low salinity and high temperatures adding that it would require dedicated government funding and support the mariscadoras are left with the few kilos of almeja japónica they manage to find Vales Martínez has worked as a mariscadora for 24 years just like her mother and grandmother before her “What’s really needed is to invest in the sea even if it means closing it for a year while stocks recover,” she says ”We need to address the root causes of the problem Can Spain keep the rising sea from washing away a critical delta? Carss, D. N., Brito, A. C., Chainho, P., Ciutat, A., de Montaudouin, X., Fernández Otero, R. M., … Jones, L. (2020). Ecosystem services provided by a non-cultured shellfish species: The common cockle Cerastoderma edule. Marine Environmental Research, 158, 104931. doi:10.1016/j.marenvres.2020.104931 Des, M., Fernández-Nóvoa, D., DeCastro, M., Gómez-Gesteira, J., Sousa, M., & Gómez-Gesteira, M. (2021). Modeling salinity drop in estuarine areas under extreme precipitation events within a context of climate change: Effect on bivalve mortality in Galician rias Baixas. Science of The Total Environment, 790, 148147. doi:10.1016/j.scitotenv.2021.148147 A global assessment of the vulnerability of shellfish aquaculture to climate change and ocean acidification FEEDBACK: Use this form to send a message to the editor of this post The “fortress conservation” model is under pressure in East Africa as protected areas become battlegrounds over history and global efforts to halt biodiversity loss Mongabay’s Special Issue goes beyond the region’s world-renowned safaris to examine how rural communities and governments are reckoning with conservation’s colonial origins and trying to forge a path forward […] July 17, 2023JPEG The nutrient-rich water in these inlets supports a wealth of marine life making the Galicia coast one of the most productive places for aquaculture Buoys keep the lattice mussel rafts afloat on the surface of the water and hundreds of ropes are suspended into the water column from each structure Mussels attach to the ropes and filter feed on phytoplankton and other suspended organic particles The rafts allow for high yields of mussels in a small area of the water The Rías Baixas are on the northern end of the Canary current and are in a major upwelling zone nutrient-rich water up from the bottom of the ocean typically occurs in this area between April and October Much of the mussel production in the Rías Baixas occurs during this time as the mollusks filter feed on nutrients and plentiful phytoplankton supported by upwelling Spain is the top mussel producing country in the world. Rías de Arousa alone contains over 2,400 mussel rafts producing about 40 percent of Europe’s mussels NASA Earth Observatory image by Wanmei Liang, using Landsat data from the U.S. Geological Survey. Story by Emily Cassidy View this area in EO Explorer The estuarine inlets of Spain’s Galicia coast are some of the most productive places to grow mussels Tidal currents stir up colorful swirls off the coast of Western Australia This image shows Tropical Cyclones Eric and Fanele near Madagascar on January 19 This natural-color image shows Saharan dust forming an S-shaped curve off the western coast of Africa The dates displayed for an article provide information on when various publication milestones were reached at the journal that has published the article activities on preceding journals at which the article was previously under consideration are not shown (for instance submission All content on this site: Copyright © 2025 Elsevier B.V. GaliciaDavid LoftusIt is a view that demands to be unpacked before my suitcase a hillside thick with pine and eucalyptus woods Rías Baixas is the term for the five estuaries that probe their way inland from west to east like crooked fingers their digit-like shape giving rise to the legend that God leant his hand here The Rías are sheltered by a series of islands - the Cíes Sálvora and other small atolls - creating a deliciously mild pocket where lemons GaliciaDavid LoftusAsking my best-connected Spanish friends I identified a clutch of Rías Baixas devotees: the fashion editor and several stylists on Spanish Vogue had been visiting since their teenage years a former director at Manolo Blahnik and the current Spanish president British architect David Chipperfield had long been a fan having built a cool little bolthole in remote Corrubedo more than a decade ago a town with the edge-of-the-world feeling of a Cornish fishing village There was also enticing talk of superlative seafood and wines, and some of the best beaches in Spain my plan was to swim against the current to the Rías the estuaries snaking in from the sea like a collection of giant lakes scattered along the coastline brooding shapes floating on a late-summer heat haze Buildings in PontevedraDavid LoftusFive days I traversed the Rías' intricate topography from calm inlets flanked by citrus orchards to the wilder waters of the open ocean tiniest and rarely visited is Ria de Corcubión Moving south there's wild Muros y Noia and Arousa while the Ría de Pontevedra contains the region's charming capital city is wider than a mile and harbours the biggest secret of all: the magical Cíes islands home to the prettiest beaches you've never heard of The one pleasantly old-fashioned seaside town is an agreeable place to hang out for a day or two a lovely provincial city that's not so much a symphony in stone as an operetta with plentiful outdoor terrazas for sipping local wines the Rías Baixas possess one of the world's finest whites mineral-rich wine that perfectly partners the area's excellent shellfish - mussels One was Quinta de San Amaro in the village of Meaño tucked into a valley carpeted side-to-side with Albariño vines A 14-bedroom spot with a pool and restaurant it channelled a colonial-meets-casa-rural feel The courtyard was a riot of hydrangeas (Galicia's omnipresent flower) and bright arrangements of pumpkins and lemons against granite walls Nacho Salcedo, the quinta's co-owner, had a busy life in Madrid until his partner, a gallego, persuaded him to leave the rat race and put down roots in the Rías. 'When we bought the property, it was like Angkor Wat,' he told me as we admired the estate's ancient stone granary or hórreo Such buildings are ubiquitous symbols of rural life here but this one had been cunningly made over as a beautiful chill-out room; glassed in on both sides it was the tailor-made setting for a crisp sunset G&T occasionally raising their heads to cast a glance over vineyards where blue-clad farmers worked their way along the rows a few minutes' drive from Salcedo's place This exquisite little hotel in Meis is owned by dapper young local José Luis Vilanova and is a collision of Galician country architecture with the more stylish end of contemporary European design a Campana Brothers umbrella stand and armchairs by Spanish designer Antonio Moragás are on loan from Vilanova Peña his mother Carmen's cult furniture shop in nearby Ribadumia He paints a picture of a summer scene with a glossy crowd guzzling white wine on the terraces of Pontevedra or partying at Sanxenxo's open-air Dux club Perhaps an even better choice than a hotel is to stay in one of the area's glorious villas such as Casa Minerva a Seventies beach bar transformed into a low-slung modern beach house it stands within a pebble's throw of sweeping Aguieira beach on the Ría de Muros y Noia - one of the least explored estuaries Wakefield told me his guests were mainly German but that a peppering of clued-up Londoners were arriving Clever Spaniards spurn the charms of Ibiza and Mykonos in favour of a summer spent on this coast Designed by architect Iñaki Leite in a take-no-prisoners modernist style it has vast sliding-glass windows that show off the water in widescreen The house is filled with hand-crafted wonders: furniture and shutters made of eucalyptus wood upcycled from bateas (mussel-farming platforms) and steel staircases made by local artisans and then potter along the tiny beach below the house speaks of Galicia's deep relationship with granite and the Celtic roots of this Atlantic culture Pobra do Caramiñal beachDavid LoftusThe chapel at CambadosDavid LoftusAnother day was spent with Adrian McManus a Galician resident who runs Northwest Iberian Wine Tours from artisan bodegas to château-like pazos Our wine safari covered some of the most forward-thinking Albariño producers as well as the semi-clandestine world of the furanchos rustic operations that serve their own vintages alongside plates of home-style food where we had lunch of clams and octopus and sipped wine from old-fashioned bowls known as cuncas McManus reminisced about landing in Galicia two decades before when he looked at Pontevedra and said to himself 'this is the place' GaliciaDavid LoftusAfter four days here I was closer to understanding why people wax lyrical about the Rías a London-based gallega who used to work for Manolo Blahnik and has been coming to Sanxenxo all her life with gardens and balconies staring directly out to the Atlantic and sunsets that are a fiesta of blazing colour a breezy mix of primary colours on a background of dazzling white told me about the three-day birthday bash Sagra had recently thrown for her Californian husband 'The Americans flipped out over the Rías Baixas and the quality of life - I hope you're going to the Cíes Islands?' The rumoured home of some of the world's most pristine the Cíes enjoy total protection as part of the Atlantic Islands National Park There are no cars and nowhere to stay but a simple campsite The ferry pulled out of Vigo harbour on a morning simultaneously warm and crisp that carried with it a hint of summer's end a long arc of sand with the texture of soft brown sugar framed by a gentle landscape of rocks and farmland A few little boats seemed to float in the celestial calm of the bay There was no doubt in my mind that this place could hold its own among the finest beaches of the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean Scallops at A MecaDavid LoftusI plunged into the unruffled water The shock of the cold Atlantic came as a reality check: the Rías Baixas aren't the Mediterranean or the Indian Ocean after all The whole point of Spain's secret summer destination - the costa the crowds forgot - is that it happily refuses to be anything but itself Paprika octopus at NovavilaDavid LoftusThe mesmerising views of the Ría from this minimalist dining room in Pontevedra compete for attention with Javier Olleros' cooking His dishes are a simple exaltation of local products: octopus caught on the rocks with a garlic emulsion; hake with a citrus sauce and pickled seaweed Address: Calle Reboredo, 73, 36980 O Grove, Pontevedra, SpainTelephone: cullerdepau.comPrice: About £75 for a six-course tasting menu for two this Pontevedra basement-bar-restaurant is top-drawer taking in great Albariños and a careful selection of fascinating wines from across the world Address: Rúa Michelena, 20, 36002 Pontevedra, SpainTelephone: vinotecabagos.comPrice: About £55 for two The pool at Casa MinervaDavid LoftusYayo DaportaA house in CambadosDavid LoftusContemporary Galician cuisine hitherto best represented by Pepe Vieira and Casa Solla (both near Pontevedra) who showcases original creations such as oysters with caramelised cauliflower and carrot vinegar at his slick restaurant in Cambados Address: Rúa do Hospital, 7, 36630 Cambados, Pontevedra, SpainTelephone: yayodaporta.comPrice: About £75 for two Hake and John Dory at Culler de PauDavid LoftusHead to 'Uncle Benito's' in Barrantes for traditional cooking at its best Choose from classic dishes such as salt cod or a deeply savoury octopus and potato stew so dark it stains the porcelain cup it's drunk from SpainTelephone: +34 986 710287Price: About £35 for two This family run marisquería in the diminutive port of Xufre on Arousa is well-known for its seafood - sardines mussels and clams - brought in by the island's own fishing fleet SpainTelephone: +34 986 551551Price: About £50 for two A converted salt warehouse right on the seafront in Corrubedo this destination restaurant combines the virtues of a new-wave tavern The path to Serafin restaurantDavid LoftusAddress: Travesía Torreiro 1, 15969 Ribeira, C, SpainTelephone: +34 981 865128Website: benboacorrubedo.comPrice: About £45 for two This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller September 2017 To know in depth the territory that we live daily is a more complex task than it seems one of the best options to do this is to hike or walk and be in the company of someone who knows the trails well and that would go unnoticed by the average hiker The program Depo Andainas which in this 2017 has experienced its second edition brings us closer together to some of the places full with greater cultural and scenic value in the county this is an ideal way to combine sports and culture and to get to know better relevant natural and architectural settings The great success of the event has led to a total of 1,500 people having enjoyed this year the five Depo Andainas that have been held In all the events the 300 existing places for each route were sold out in less than 24 hours This number is considered the most accurate so that all attendees can fully enjoy the experience and avoid overcrowding The five trials that took place were in different stage at the Illa de Arousa-O Carreirón the Pastora-Umia Natural Trail in Cambados the Camino de Santiago between Tui and O Porriño and The variety of natural and cultural places that could be visited in the five trials was one of the main attractions of this activity company organizers of the Depo Andainas and coordinator of the same explains that the ultimate goal of these routes is not limited to hiking but it is also to give the hikes a cultural sense and an awareness of their environment Passing by monuments such as Tui Cathedral or Soutomaior Castle is a paramount opportunity to be able to learn more about the history and cultural backdrop of the area The route of the various Depo Andainas is designed so that it can be done by people of any age since they have a medium-low level of difficulty and last between 2.5 and three hours with three refreshments during the hike and with stopovers in order to explain various aspects of the tour by the monitors This year there have been entries from all ages the inclusion of the Illas Cíes was highlighted which awakened great interest among the attendees so that nearly 900 entries were registered to make that route Benito explains that among those who came to do it there were people who had never been to the islands and other people who knew them from many years ago The great landscape attraction of this natural reserve contributed to the enormous success of this route that allowed to enjoy the attendees with one of the most impressive natural scenarios in Galicia The last Depo Andaina´s event  this year had to be delayed until November 5 due to the wave of forest fires registered in the province around mid-October The event was used to raise awareness among the attendees about the peculiarities of the forest as a natural environment even the protocols of citizenship action in the face of this type of arson Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value" This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 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GCiencia é unha publicación de © Ciencia Galega Industrias Creativas S.L GCiencia realiza unha reserva expresa das reproducións e usos das obras e outras prestacións accesibles desde este sitio web a medios de lectura mecánica ou outros medios que resulten adecuados a tal fin de conformidade co artigo 67.3 da Real Decreto - lei 24/2021     Medio colaborador da FECYT From the towers of Catoira to the beach of A Lanzada while passing through the pazos (traditional dwellings) of Cambados or perhaps taking in the numerous viewpoints to be found in Vilanova There must be something special about Arousa to bring in thousands of tourists every summer Little wonder then that the end of the high season is a great time to discover this magnificent destination which avoids the tourist hotspots and offers more affordable prices As it is the largest estuary in Galicia and one that divides the provinces of A Coru�a and Pontevedra we will focus our gaze on the Pontevedra shoreline From the river Ulla to the island of S�lvora here are ten places you absolutely must visit Every first Sunday in August they see hordes of invading Vikings it is an essential visit if you are in the area The Torres de Oeste are in fact the ruins of a castle that was instrumental in protecting Santiago from marauding invaders such as the landing commemorated at the Viking Festival of Catoira there were several occasions on which this fortress acted as the “key and seal of Galicia” as it was used to prevent the passage of ships from the Arousa estuary to the river Ulla; a route steeped in Xacobean tradition and said to be how the remains of Saint James the Great were carried to his final resting place be sure to stroll along the wooden walkways that surround it which have become a paradise for influencers Defensive forts such as the one at Catoira extend along the entire length of the Arousa estuary one of the most recognisable symbols of the homeland of Albari�o wine is San Sadurni�o tower we are talking about one of the most emblematic postcard images of Cambados lying right next to the Pazo de Fefi��ns palace it would undergo subsequent extensions and modifications as new owners took over making it a stone canvas of sorts from which visitors can make out the history and architectural legacy of Cambados It currently houses two bodegas (wineries) with R�as Baixas Designation of Origin A great way to see this for yourself is to look down from up high at the countless vineyards dotted across the landscape below And where better to head than the viewpoint on Mount Lobeira it is the quintessential viewpoint on the Pontevedra side of the estuary The view stretches from O Grove to Catoira passing through the Umia valley and even the island of Ons which can be seen in the Pontevedra estuary The most spectacular panoramic view is from the Cruz de Lobeira a monument to the countless victims claimed by the sea located at an altitude of almost 300 metres When making the ascent you will also be walking among m�moas (ancient tombs) and remains from the Castro period If what you’re really after is to travel back to Celtic times the best-preserved site can be found in Vilagarc�a We are talking about the Castro Alobre hill fort a settlement dating back to the 1st century BC and which remained inhabited until the 5th century we have the magnificent island of Cortegada The majestic Parque Nacional das Illas Atl�nticas (Galician Atlantic Islands National Park) is a treasure worth exploring among other reasons because it plays home to one of the few laurel forests currently existing in the world Also nestled among its ancient trees are an abandoned village and the ruins of a hermitage� —that of the Virgen de los Milagros— to which pilgrims would flock to have their afflictions cured Even reaching the island is an experience in itself as to do so you will need to cross the estuary The Arousa estuary features various islands some of them are not quite as isolated as you might imagine being one of the most touristy enclaves in the area and accessible via a bridge The entire municipality has been declared a nature reserve and to give its ecosystem a break following several months of heavy tourism our recommendation would be to visit Punta Cabalo Located in the northern part of the municipality the Punta Cabalo lighthouse stands on a rocky peninsula you can enjoy an invigorating dip in its coves or spend an afternoon chilling out in its beach bars If what you really want to do is to sunbathe and splash around among other like-minded beachgoers the most emblematic beach for tourism in the area is A Lanzada which can be found on an isthmus joining O Grove with Sanxenxo It boasts two kilometres of fine sand that every summer welcome the towels and sun loungers of those looking to enjoy a day in the sun surf or take part in one of the most famous fertility rites in Galicia women who want to become pregnant must jump nine waves on the night of the last Saturday in August In O Grove you can also do more than just lying on a towel you can walk along the Pedras Negras footpath which runs from the famous marina of San Vicente do Mar to the beach of Canelas As you walk along the wooden walkway you are sure to enjoy the sea breeze as you listen to the birdsong and look out to the island of Ons S�lvora is another of the islands that can be seen from O Grove the boats that can take you to this enclave of the Galician Atlantic Islands National Park typically set sail from O Grove there is no regular service running between the island and the mainland it offers a nature experience without all the crowds If you get the chance to head there on one of the excursions available you will discover the natural wealth and stunning beauty of the Arousa estuary where the archipelago acts as a natural barrier between the mussel rafts and the ocean S�lvora also maintains a well-preserved human footprint from times past Its rich history can still be seen in the buildings that remain standing today A prime example would be the Pazo de Goi�ns which now functions as a museum but was once a fish salting factory also gives visitors an idea of what life was once like for the island’s inhabitants Another must-see attraction is the lighthouse which was built after the Santa Isabel sank in a storm in 1921; a tragic event that resulted in 213 deaths who were rescued by a group of women from the island Yet this is just one of the stories for which the archipelago is known whose sculpture appears to welcome visitors To enjoy the Arousa estuary in all its glory you will need to experience it from the water There are numerous nautical tourism offers that combine boat trips with experiences such as visiting the islands tasting the local seafood and even visiting the mussel rafts Given the sheer number of mussel festivals at which you can sample this culinary delight by heading out to the rafts in a boat you can experience first-hand how the tasty mussels that fill the plates of the best restaurants to be found in the area are cultivated.