Reporting for this story was supported by Journalismfund Europe under the Earth Investigations Programme
GALICIA, Spain — The first sleepy rays of morning light are starting to illuminate the beach of Cambados
a small Atlantic-facing town in the Spanish region of Galicia that’s famous for its shellfish and Albariño wine
It’s a rainy morning in March and the mariscadoras — women shellfish pickers — are wading straight into the ocean armed with buckets and rubber boots for another day of work
the tradition that has been passed down through generations of women
and us too,” says Patricia Piñeiro between wind gusts and rain as she searches for clams big enough to harvest
showing the measuring device from the local fishing authorities set to 4 centimeters (1.5 inches)
which means she must return most of the clams she finds to the ocean
“At this pace, the almeja fina [Ruditapes decussatus] and almeja babosa [Venerupis corrugata] will disappear,” says Maria José Cacabelos Domínguez
a retired mariscadora who now organizes tours for people wanting to see the shellfish pickers in action
an association of women in the fishing sector
The lack of shellfish is now pushing many to take precarious
informal jobs cleaning hotels or working in bars
Besides sustaining livelihoods, shellfish play a vital role in regulating marine ecosystems
they clean the water they live in by removing nitrogen
making them an environmentally sustainable source of nutrient-dense protein
A 2023 study from the local University of Vigo shows that the four main species of clams and cockles harvested in Galicia
has proved to be more resilient to rising temperatures
is vulnerable to prolonged periods of low salinity caused by heavy rains
many of Galicia’s shellfish associations temporarily ceased activities to help stocks recover
That includes the mariscadoras from the nearby town of Vilanova de Arousa
They now receive a little more than 1,000 euros ($1,073) a month in government support
who previously headed the town’s fishing guild
the requirements are strict — those working a second job are often denied compensation — and payments are often delayed
Rodriguez and her fellow mariscadoras of Illa de Arousa were among the last to quit working
and they are now in the process of applying for monthly government support
they are struggling to pick even 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds) of almeja japónica
You can’t even pay your social security fees at the end of the month,” Rodriguez says
“[A] lot of people have already left to go work on land because this is unsustainable.”
Mass mortality events such as the one in December are likely to become more common as global warming disrupts rainfall patterns
The problem is when that rain accumulates over a few days,” says Elsa Vázquez
a University of Vigo zoologist who studies how changes in salinity and temperature affect the main shellfish species harvested in Rías Baixas
the four productive estuaries in southwestern Galicia
Torrential rainfall increases the amount of freshwater flowing from the river mouths into the estuaries, where the shellfish banks are located. Prolonged periods of low salinity affect bivalves’ ability to breathe
Shellfish can close their valves during periods of low salinity to protect themselves
but this uses up precious energy and weakens them
Between October and November 2023, Galicia’s weather agency recorded more than 30 consecutive days of rainfall yielding more than 1,000 liters of rain per square meter (264 gallons per 10.7 square feet) — 127% more than normal
salinity below 15 parts per thousand for several days causes mortality
and this winter there were many days when salinity was as low as five parts per thousand,” Vázquez says
The emptying of reservoirs during low tide by electricity companies also alters the estuaries’ delicate balance
According to the Platform for the Defense of the Ría de Arousa
the release of water should be timed to coincide with high tide to avoid freshwater inundating the shellfish banks
a clear sign of global warming with significant implications for biodiversity
Intertidal shellfish species bury themselves in the sand to keep cool
but with heat waves becoming more intense the heat penetrates deeper
which affects their growth and reproductive capacity
Numerous shellfish pickers told Mongabay they want the Galician government to fund an in-depth study on the impacts of climate change to help inform potential solutions. Scientific models suggest 2060 could be a global tipping point for shellfish in many regions of the world
with fisheries in Spain at high risk due to low species diversity and vulnerability to increased temperatures
The development of clam hatcheries could be a solution
While some commercial hatcheries exist for almeja japónica
growing baby clams to be planted out on sandbanks
more research is needed to cultivate almeja fina and babosa profitably
She describes this as “the future of shellfishing” for its potential to establish enough reproducing adult shellfish to get stocks back to normal
Another solution being explored is the real-time monitoring of salinity
temperature and other variables in the shellfish banks
This could help researchers create predictive models so mariscadoras could prepare for periods of low salinity and high temperatures
adding that it would require dedicated government funding and support
the mariscadoras are left with the few kilos of almeja japónica they manage to find
Vales Martínez has worked as a mariscadora for 24 years
just like her mother and grandmother before her
“What’s really needed is to invest in the sea
even if it means closing it for a year while stocks recover,” she says
”We need to address the root causes of the problem
Can Spain keep the rising sea from washing away a critical delta?
Carss, D. N., Brito, A. C., Chainho, P., Ciutat, A., de Montaudouin, X., Fernández Otero, R. M., … Jones, L. (2020). Ecosystem services provided by a non-cultured shellfish species: The common cockle Cerastoderma edule. Marine Environmental Research, 158, 104931. doi:10.1016/j.marenvres.2020.104931
Des, M., Fernández-Nóvoa, D., DeCastro, M., Gómez-Gesteira, J., Sousa, M., & Gómez-Gesteira, M. (2021). Modeling salinity drop in estuarine areas under extreme precipitation events within a context of climate change: Effect on bivalve mortality in Galician rias Baixas. Science of The Total Environment, 790, 148147. doi:10.1016/j.scitotenv.2021.148147
A global assessment of the vulnerability of shellfish aquaculture to climate change and ocean acidification
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The “fortress conservation” model is under pressure in East Africa
as protected areas become battlegrounds over history
and global efforts to halt biodiversity loss
Mongabay’s Special Issue goes beyond the region’s world-renowned safaris to examine how rural communities and governments are reckoning with conservation’s colonial origins
and trying to forge a path forward […]
July 17, 2023JPEG
The nutrient-rich water in these inlets supports a wealth of marine life
making the Galicia coast one of the most productive places for aquaculture
Buoys keep the lattice mussel rafts afloat on the surface of the water
and hundreds of ropes are suspended into the water column from each structure
Mussels attach to the ropes and filter feed on phytoplankton and other suspended organic particles
The rafts allow for high yields of mussels in a small area of the water
The Rías Baixas are on the northern end of the Canary current and are in a major upwelling zone
nutrient-rich water up from the bottom of the ocean
typically occurs in this area between April and October
Much of the mussel production in the Rías Baixas occurs during this time
as the mollusks filter feed on nutrients and plentiful phytoplankton supported by upwelling
Spain is the top mussel producing country in the world. Rías de Arousa alone contains over 2,400 mussel rafts
producing about 40 percent of Europe’s mussels
NASA Earth Observatory image by Wanmei Liang, using Landsat data from the U.S. Geological Survey. Story by Emily Cassidy
View this area in EO Explorer
The estuarine inlets of Spain’s Galicia coast are some of the most productive places to grow mussels
Tidal currents stir up colorful swirls off the coast of Western Australia
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GaliciaDavid LoftusIt is a view that demands to be unpacked before my suitcase
a hillside thick with pine and eucalyptus woods
Rías Baixas is the term for the five estuaries that probe their way inland from west to east like crooked fingers
their digit-like shape giving rise to the legend that God leant his hand here
The Rías are sheltered by a series of islands - the Cíes
Sálvora and other small atolls - creating a deliciously mild pocket where lemons
GaliciaDavid LoftusAsking my best-connected Spanish friends
I identified a clutch of Rías Baixas devotees: the fashion editor and several stylists on Spanish Vogue had been visiting since their teenage years
a former director at Manolo Blahnik and the current Spanish president
British architect David Chipperfield had long been a fan
having built a cool little bolthole in remote Corrubedo more than a decade ago
a town with the edge-of-the-world feeling of a Cornish fishing village
There was also enticing talk of superlative seafood and wines, and some of the best beaches in Spain
my plan was to swim against the current to the Rías
the estuaries snaking in from the sea like a collection of giant lakes scattered along the coastline
brooding shapes floating on a late-summer heat haze
Buildings in PontevedraDavid LoftusFive days
I traversed the Rías' intricate topography
from calm inlets flanked by citrus orchards to the wilder waters of the open ocean
tiniest and rarely visited is Ria de Corcubión
Moving south there's wild Muros y Noia and Arousa
while the Ría de Pontevedra contains the region's charming capital city
is wider than a mile and harbours the biggest secret of all: the magical Cíes islands
home to the prettiest beaches you've never heard of
The one pleasantly old-fashioned seaside town
is an agreeable place to hang out for a day or two
a lovely provincial city that's not so much a symphony in stone as an operetta
with plentiful outdoor terrazas for sipping local wines
the Rías Baixas possess one of the world's finest whites
mineral-rich wine that perfectly partners the area's excellent shellfish - mussels
One was Quinta de San Amaro in the village of Meaño
tucked into a valley carpeted side-to-side with Albariño vines
A 14-bedroom spot with a pool and restaurant
it channelled a colonial-meets-casa-rural feel
The courtyard was a riot of hydrangeas (Galicia's omnipresent flower) and bright arrangements of pumpkins and lemons against granite walls
Nacho Salcedo, the quinta's co-owner, had a busy life in Madrid until his partner, a gallego, persuaded him to leave the rat race and put down roots in the Rías. 'When we bought the property, it was like Angkor Wat,' he told me as we admired the estate's ancient stone granary or hórreo
Such buildings are ubiquitous symbols of rural life here
but this one had been cunningly made over as a beautiful chill-out room; glassed in on both sides
it was the tailor-made setting for a crisp sunset G&T
occasionally raising their heads to cast a glance over vineyards where blue-clad farmers worked their way along the rows
a few minutes' drive from Salcedo's place
This exquisite little hotel in Meis is owned by dapper young local José Luis Vilanova and is a collision of Galician country architecture with the more stylish end of contemporary European design
a Campana Brothers umbrella stand and armchairs by Spanish designer Antonio Moragás are on loan from Vilanova Peña
his mother Carmen's cult furniture shop in nearby Ribadumia
He paints a picture of a summer scene with a glossy crowd guzzling white wine on the terraces of Pontevedra or partying at Sanxenxo's open-air Dux club
Perhaps an even better choice than a hotel is to stay in one of the area's glorious villas such as Casa Minerva
a Seventies beach bar transformed into a low-slung modern beach house
it stands within a pebble's throw of sweeping Aguieira beach on the Ría de Muros y Noia - one of the least explored estuaries
Wakefield told me his guests were mainly German but that
a peppering of clued-up Londoners were arriving
Clever Spaniards spurn the charms of Ibiza and Mykonos in favour of a summer spent on this coast
Designed by architect Iñaki Leite in a take-no-prisoners modernist style
it has vast sliding-glass windows that show off the water in widescreen
The house is filled with hand-crafted wonders: furniture and shutters made of eucalyptus wood upcycled from bateas (mussel-farming platforms)
and steel staircases made by local artisans
and then potter along the tiny beach below the house
speaks of Galicia's deep relationship with granite and the Celtic roots of this Atlantic culture
Pobra do Caramiñal beachDavid LoftusThe chapel at CambadosDavid LoftusAnother day was spent with Adrian McManus
a Galician resident who runs Northwest Iberian Wine Tours
from artisan bodegas to château-like pazos
Our wine safari covered some of the most forward-thinking Albariño producers
as well as the semi-clandestine world of the furanchos
rustic operations that serve their own vintages alongside plates of home-style food
where we had lunch of clams and octopus and sipped wine from old-fashioned bowls known as cuncas
McManus reminisced about landing in Galicia two decades before
when he looked at Pontevedra and said to himself 'this is the place'
GaliciaDavid LoftusAfter four days here I was closer to understanding why people wax lyrical about the Rías
a London-based gallega who used to work for Manolo Blahnik and has been coming to Sanxenxo all her life
with gardens and balconies staring directly out to the Atlantic
and sunsets that are a fiesta of blazing colour
a breezy mix of primary colours on a background of dazzling white
told me about the three-day birthday bash Sagra had recently thrown for her Californian husband
'The Americans flipped out over the Rías Baixas
and the quality of life - I hope you're going to the Cíes Islands?'
The rumoured home of some of the world's most pristine
the Cíes enjoy total protection as part of the Atlantic Islands National Park
There are no cars and nowhere to stay but a simple campsite
The ferry pulled out of Vigo harbour on a morning simultaneously warm and crisp that carried with it a hint of summer's end
a long arc of sand with the texture of soft brown sugar
framed by a gentle landscape of rocks and farmland
A few little boats seemed to float in the celestial calm of the bay
There was no doubt in my mind that this place could hold its own among the finest beaches of the Mediterranean and the Indian Ocean
Scallops at A MecaDavid LoftusI plunged into the unruffled water
The shock of the cold Atlantic came as a reality check: the Rías Baixas aren't the Mediterranean or the Indian Ocean after all
The whole point of Spain's secret summer destination - the costa the crowds forgot - is that it happily refuses to be anything but itself
Paprika octopus at NovavilaDavid LoftusThe mesmerising views of the Ría from this minimalist dining room in Pontevedra compete for attention with Javier Olleros' cooking
His dishes are a simple exaltation of local products: octopus caught on the rocks
with a garlic emulsion; hake with a citrus sauce and pickled seaweed
Address: Calle Reboredo, 73, 36980 O Grove, Pontevedra, SpainTelephone: cullerdepau.comPrice: About £75 for a six-course tasting menu for two
this Pontevedra basement-bar-restaurant is top-drawer
taking in great Albariños and a careful selection of fascinating wines from across the world
Address: Rúa Michelena, 20, 36002 Pontevedra, SpainTelephone: vinotecabagos.comPrice: About £55 for two
The pool at Casa MinervaDavid LoftusYayo DaportaA house in CambadosDavid LoftusContemporary Galician cuisine
hitherto best represented by Pepe Vieira and Casa Solla (both near Pontevedra)
who showcases original creations such as oysters with caramelised cauliflower and carrot vinegar at his slick restaurant in Cambados
Address: Rúa do Hospital, 7, 36630 Cambados, Pontevedra, SpainTelephone: yayodaporta.comPrice: About £75 for two
Hake and John Dory at Culler de PauDavid LoftusHead to 'Uncle Benito's' in Barrantes for traditional cooking at its best
Choose from classic dishes such as salt cod
or a deeply savoury octopus and potato stew
so dark it stains the porcelain cup it's drunk from
SpainTelephone: +34 986 710287Price: About £35 for two
This family run marisquería in the diminutive port of Xufre on Arousa is well-known for its seafood - sardines
mussels and clams - brought in by the island's own fishing fleet
SpainTelephone: +34 986 551551Price: About £50 for two
A converted salt warehouse right on the seafront in Corrubedo
this destination restaurant combines the virtues of a new-wave tavern
The path to Serafin restaurantDavid LoftusAddress: Travesía Torreiro 1, 15969 Ribeira, C, SpainTelephone: +34 981 865128Website: benboacorrubedo.comPrice: About £45 for two
This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller September 2017
To know in depth the territory that we live daily is a more complex task than it seems
one of the best options to do this is to hike or walk and be in the company of someone who knows the trails well and that would go unnoticed by the average hiker
The program Depo Andainas
which in this 2017 has experienced its second edition
brings us closer together to some of the places full with greater cultural and scenic value in the county
this is an ideal way to combine sports and culture and to get to know better relevant natural and architectural settings
The great success of the event has led to a total of 1,500 people having enjoyed this year the five Depo Andainas that have been held
In all the events the 300 existing places for each route were sold out in less than 24 hours
This number is considered the most accurate so that all attendees can fully enjoy the experience and avoid overcrowding
The five trials that took place were in different stage at the Illa de Arousa-O Carreirón
the Pastora-Umia Natural Trail in Cambados
the Camino de Santiago between Tui and O Porriño and
The variety of natural and cultural places that could be visited in the five trials was one of the main attractions of this activity
company organizers of the Depo Andainas and coordinator of the same
explains that the ultimate goal of these routes is not limited to hiking but it is also to give the hikes a cultural sense and an awareness of their environment
Passing by monuments such as Tui Cathedral or Soutomaior Castle is a paramount opportunity to be able to learn more about the history and cultural backdrop of the area
The route of the various Depo Andainas is designed so that it can be done by people of any age
since they have a medium-low level of difficulty and last between 2.5 and three hours
with three refreshments during the hike and with stopovers in order to explain various aspects of the tour by the monitors
This year there have been entries from all ages
the inclusion of the Illas Cíes was highlighted
which awakened great interest among the attendees
so that nearly 900 entries were registered to make that route
Benito explains that among those who came to do it there were people who had never been to the islands and other people who knew them from many years ago
The great landscape attraction of this natural reserve contributed to the enormous success of this route that allowed to enjoy the attendees with one of the most impressive natural scenarios in Galicia
The last Depo Andaina´s event this year had to be delayed until November 5 due to the wave of forest fires registered in the province around mid-October
The event was used to raise awareness among the attendees about the peculiarities of the forest as a natural environment
even the protocols of citizenship action in the face of this type of arson
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From the towers of Catoira to the beach of A Lanzada
while passing through the pazos (traditional dwellings) of Cambados or perhaps taking in the numerous viewpoints to be found in Vilanova
There must be something special about Arousa to bring in thousands of tourists every summer
Little wonder then that the end of the high season is a great time to discover this magnificent destination
which avoids the tourist hotspots and offers more affordable prices
As it is the largest estuary in Galicia and one that divides the provinces of A Coru�a and Pontevedra
we will focus our gaze on the Pontevedra shoreline
From the river Ulla to the island of S�lvora
here are ten places you absolutely must visit
Every first Sunday in August they see hordes of invading Vikings
it is an essential visit if you are in the area
The Torres de Oeste are in fact the ruins of a castle that was instrumental in protecting Santiago from marauding invaders
such as the landing commemorated at the Viking Festival of Catoira
there were several occasions on which this fortress acted as the “key and seal of Galicia”
as it was used to prevent the passage of ships from the Arousa estuary to the river Ulla; a route steeped in Xacobean tradition and said to be how the remains of Saint James the Great were carried to his final resting place
be sure to stroll along the wooden walkways that surround it
which have become a paradise for influencers
Defensive forts such as the one at Catoira extend along the entire length of the Arousa estuary
one of the most recognisable symbols of the homeland of Albari�o wine is San Sadurni�o tower
we are talking about one of the most emblematic postcard images of Cambados
lying right next to the Pazo de Fefi��ns palace
it would undergo subsequent extensions and modifications as new owners took over
making it a stone canvas of sorts from which visitors can make out the history and architectural legacy of Cambados
It currently houses two bodegas (wineries) with R�as Baixas Designation of Origin
A great way to see this for yourself is to look down from up high at the countless vineyards dotted across the landscape below
And where better to head than the viewpoint on Mount Lobeira
it is the quintessential viewpoint on the Pontevedra side of the estuary
The view stretches from O Grove to Catoira
passing through the Umia valley and even the island of Ons
which can be seen in the Pontevedra estuary
The most spectacular panoramic view is from the Cruz de Lobeira
a monument to the countless victims claimed by the sea located at an altitude of almost 300 metres
When making the ascent you will also be walking among m�moas (ancient tombs) and remains from the Castro period
If what you’re really after is to travel back to Celtic times
the best-preserved site can be found in Vilagarc�a
We are talking about the Castro Alobre hill fort
a settlement dating back to the 1st century BC and which remained inhabited until the 5th century
we have the magnificent island of Cortegada
The majestic Parque Nacional das Illas Atl�nticas (Galician Atlantic Islands National Park) is a treasure worth exploring
among other reasons because it plays home to one of the few laurel forests currently existing in the world
Also nestled among its ancient trees are an abandoned village and the ruins of a hermitage� —that of the Virgen de los Milagros— to which pilgrims would flock to have their afflictions cured
Even reaching the island is an experience in itself
as to do so you will need to cross the estuary
The Arousa estuary features various islands
some of them are not quite as isolated as you might imagine
being one of the most touristy enclaves in the area and accessible via a bridge
The entire municipality has been declared a nature reserve and
to give its ecosystem a break following several months of heavy tourism
our recommendation would be to visit Punta Cabalo
Located in the northern part of the municipality
the Punta Cabalo lighthouse stands on a rocky peninsula
you can enjoy an invigorating dip in its coves or spend an afternoon chilling out in its beach bars
If what you really want to do is to sunbathe and splash around among other like-minded beachgoers
the most emblematic beach for tourism in the area is A Lanzada
which can be found on an isthmus joining O Grove with Sanxenxo
It boasts two kilometres of fine sand that every summer welcome the towels and sun loungers of those looking to enjoy a day in the sun
surf or take part in one of the most famous fertility rites in Galicia
women who want to become pregnant must jump nine waves on the night of the last Saturday in August
In O Grove you can also do more than just lying on a towel
you can walk along the Pedras Negras footpath
which runs from the famous marina of San Vicente do Mar to the beach of Canelas
As you walk along the wooden walkway you are sure to enjoy the sea breeze as you listen to the birdsong and look out to the island of Ons
S�lvora is another of the islands that can be seen from O Grove
the boats that can take you to this enclave of the Galician Atlantic Islands National Park typically set sail from O Grove
there is no regular service running between the island and the mainland
it offers a nature experience without all the crowds
If you get the chance to head there on one of the excursions available
you will discover the natural wealth and stunning beauty of the Arousa estuary
where the archipelago acts as a natural barrier between the mussel rafts and the ocean
S�lvora also maintains a well-preserved human footprint from times past
Its rich history can still be seen in the buildings that remain standing today
A prime example would be the Pazo de Goi�ns
which now functions as a museum but was once a fish salting factory
also gives visitors an idea of what life was once like for the island’s inhabitants
Another must-see attraction is the lighthouse
which was built after the Santa Isabel sank in a storm in 1921; a tragic event that resulted in 213 deaths
who were rescued by a group of women from the island
Yet this is just one of the stories for which the archipelago is known
whose sculpture appears to welcome visitors
To enjoy the Arousa estuary in all its glory
you will need to experience it from the water
There are numerous nautical tourism offers that combine boat trips with experiences such as visiting the islands
tasting the local seafood and even visiting the mussel rafts
Given the sheer number of mussel festivals at which you can sample this culinary delight
by heading out to the rafts in a boat you can experience first-hand how the tasty mussels that fill the plates of the best restaurants to be found in the area are cultivated.