The appointment was set for August 3 in the Barandiaran Room offering a truly enjoyable opening ceremony Then it was the turn of Mari Jose Olaziregi director for the promotion and dissemination of Euskera of the Etxepare Basque Institute She spoke about the exhibition on the work of Imanol Ordorika held in 2012 at UNAM and how she though that the exhibition had to be displayed also in the Basque Country as a benchmark of the Basque architecture in the exile By then she already knew some members of the family It was Nile who told her and Anjel Lertxundi in the act of 2011 in the Euskal Etxea of Mexico DF the journey into the exile of the family captained the ship "Vita" carrying the family and their belongings to Mexico in the Second Republic and it was Lauaxeta who took the family to Bilbao that with 79 years traveled with his daughter Maite to the barnetegi Maizpide with a grant from the Etxepare Institute; great architect Olaziregi mentioned those experiences in her speech and then she read a passage of the book "Urtebete itsasargian" of the author from Lekeitio Miren Agur Meabe where the hard political panorama of Lekeitio during the war is told Juan Jose Arrizabalaga (Director of GATS / UPV) took the floor to remind the conference on the work of Ordorika that took place in Donostia in 2014 The event was continued by a grateful Maria Jose Ordorika today professor of architecture at the UNAM Mario Sangalli (EGAT / professor UPV) explained the characteristics of the architecture of Ordorika  that brought to Lekeitio the Basque architecture of exile they attended the meeting the journalist Koldo San Sebastián Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker Courtesy of the San Sebastian Tourist Office and welcomed (sometimes dragged) to tables in private homes All it took was a little lingering and a smile I was told they are almost always on the ground floor (check) that the windows are usually shaded so you can’t see inside (check) and that the name of the group is commonly displayed (check) The heavy door was left open just a crack and inside I could hear a few voices along with the clanking of pots and pans one man was familiar with Lekeitio and spoke Basque Gastronomic societies (“txoko” in Basque) play an essential role in the social lives of locals across the Basque Country The physical spaces are owned and maintained through annual fees paid by members and often have professional-quality kitchens along with stocked wine cellars and loaded pantries Members slide cash into a special box with a slot in the lid to pay for dinner (which is always cheaper than a restaurant—it simply covers the cost of the products and putting on the meal) A typical evening includes three courses cooked by one or more members and often ends with a game of cards or singing My friend poked his head out from behind the door and beckoned us inside “A few members are preparing dinner,” he said “They’d be happy to show us around.” There was a long table covered in red-and-white checkered paper and flanked with wooden chairs Wine was stocked from floor to ceiling along one wall where two guitars were waiting to be played the cook for the evening was wearing a white apron and preparing ingredients: fat summer tomatoes We were greeted with enthusiastic words of welcome and invited into the kitchen for a look around wine bottles were opened and we all raised a glass Iñaki Letona is the President of this gastronomic society It was founded by both men and women (not always common—traditionally the txoko was for men only) and legally registered in 1986 “mixes friendship and good food,” Iñaki told me there is a dinner in Abarketa every Saturday evening These private clubs are not just places to cook and drink—they also serve as a sort of community center “We celebrate our children’s birthdays here,” Iñaki said It is also a place for cooks to experiment in the kitchen After a quick couple glasses of wine and a snack—we must eat!—we left our hosts to prepare their Saturday evening meal Gorka Vacas Bengoetxea is a member of a txoko in Casco Viejo the laws of the group were changed to admit women and the club currently has two female members and more and more they are admitting women,” Gorka says “But many remain traditional—and are only for men.” A younger generation is also pushing boundaries with the food they prepare introducing new Asian-inspired or American-inspired dishes Yet change is slow and many traditions have remained the same: an emphasis on locally sourced food and often on heritage The fish on the table might be straight from the fishing pole of a member and a valuable membership can be passed from one generation to the next the gastronomic society is a place for conversation and maintaining community “My favorite moment of the night,” Gorka detailed A membership (and shared interest) in a gastronomic society brings people together over food and wine—and battles isolation late into the night no one has to leave when the bill is dropped >>Next: Spain’s Death Coast is Actually Your Dream Road Trip AFAR participates in affiliate marketing programs which means we may earn a commission if you purchase an item featured on our site.© 2025 AFAR LLC Eighty years since bombs devastated it – and as a new exhibition opens in Madrid displaying Picasso’s fabled artwork – the Basque town is a proud advocate of peace as well as gateway to a region of lush hills and wild Atlantic coast Past the handgun factory that has become an arts centre behind the rebuilt station with its shiny statue of the first Basque president there’s a long blackened tunnel with a padlocked door Eighty years ago this month it would have smelt of fear as crowds of townsfolk sheltered from one of the most infamous air raids in history a copy of which still hangs outside the UN security council “We don’t know how many people hid in this shelter,” says Begoña, my guide. “But all of them survived.” She smiles and walks me back into the rebuilt town that has turned itself into a global symbol of peace. Today, it has a peace museum (museodelapaz.org) and a peace park and survivors of the raid have linked with others from Dresden and Hiroshima to campaign against war in Iraq and Syria There are burly men in Basque berets walking its modern streets and its bars are doing a brisk trade in pintxos Large Figure In A Shelter, sculpture by Henry Moore. Photograph: The Henry Moore Foundation. All Rights Reserved, DACS/henry-moore.org 2017On a hillside above is the historic symbol of Basque identity: the oak tree of Guernica (Gernikako Arbola) beneath which generations of Basque leaders and Spanish kings have sworn to respect this fiercely independent region Beside it is the neo-classical Assembly Hall where regional leaders still meet to agree their annual budget where children play football beside a Henry Moore sculpture called Large Figure In A Shelter But there’s more to this area than Guernica I’m in the heart of Vizcaya (Biscay in English) a lush region of soft hills and solid farmhouses At its centre is a pretty Victorian waterfront with a fishermen’s chapel at one end and a Romanesque church at the other One wall of the church is used for playing pelota Across the water is a fabulous beach where surfers come to catch a left-hand barrel wave The harbour at Mundaka Photograph: Getty ImagesA mile or two west is Bermeo Two historic ships are being repaired in dry dock and a 17th-century whaler is moored near three tempting fish cafes Once sailors from here hunted cod and whale as far as Newfoundland and Christopher Columbus took pilots from Bermeo on his voyages past a tiny marina of blue and white yachts up a hill of cobbled lanes where a ruined palace gapes across a baroque square towards the cliff-side village of Elantxobe where space is so tight that the bus has to turn around on a tiny electric revolve steep alleys spill down between whitewashed houses where cats prowl and washing flutters At the bottom is a tiny harbour where cafe Itxas Etxea – bare brick walls and wraparound glass windows – is serving txakoli a 17th-century merchant’s house in the medieval fishing quarter I tiptoe up the winding wooden staircase to my room where the ceiling has carved beams and the windows look out on a Gothic church and a perfect sweep of beach At dusk I visit the bars on the quayside for pintxos then dine at a simple restaurant called Goitiko The owner offers football gossip on Basque favourites Athletic Bilbao Next morning I have a special appointment back in Guernica I am meeting one of the last survivors of 1937 Luis Iriondo Aurtenetxea is 94 and stands straight as a rake whose stone arcades survived the bombing but whose gates are marked by bullet holes Luis Iriondo Aurtenetxea a survivor of the Guernica bombing“On the day of the bombing The town was full of people for market day – which the Germans knew.” He shows me another tunnel “The church bells rang a warning and people pushed me deep inside this shelter I could feel the hot air of the explosions; I could hear the blasts His family survived and fled to France as refugees And he’s proud that his son has helped today’s refugees in Greece We want every town hall to have a peace committee to talk to their governments “When the German ambassador came here to apologise in 1997 I said to him: ‘A flag of peace should be raised from the ruins of what our town once was Former Spanish king London 2017Pablo Picasso’s painting of the bombing of Guernica is one of the 20th century’s most famous images A vast canvas in sombre tones of grey and blue it shows in searing detail the suffering of people and animals as bombs fell on their town He painted it for the Spanish pavilion at the 1937 International Exhibition in Paris and toured it around the world to publicise the massacre Picasso swore that neither he nor this painting would ever visit Spain until democracy was restored The picture was finally returned to Spain in 1981 It can be seen at the Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid This year the museum is holding an anniversary exhibition on how the picture was created: Pity and Terror Picasso’s Path to Guernica runs from 5 April to 4 September The trip was provided by the Spanish and Bilbao tourist boards, spain.info and bilbaoturismo.net, flights by Vueling contact Guernica tourist office at turismo@gernika-lumo.net situated in the Ugaran neighborhood of the Bizkaian city of Amoroto and very well known for its restaurants and businesses was the site this weekend of the 24 annual Basque-Australian get-together.  We should take a look back and situate ourselves in 1988 to understand the origins of this meal.  In April of this year Jon Mikel Goitia eldest son of Mila Aboitiz and Koldo Goitia from Lekeitio and the family invited several friends who had migrated together with them to the small town of Home Hill (Queensland Australia).  When considering the great time had by all at the wedding who was considered the alma mater of the organization (and sadly passed away two years ago) decided to repeat the experience that summer.  The date was set for the first Saturday in June 1988 at the same restaurant where the wedding had taken place Later the date was moved to the second Saturday.  According to many of the attendees nearly 200 people used to attend during the first few years coming from many different places of the Basque Country: Bizkaia with very few from Araba and other regions attending.  Initially Basques who migrated to Australia along with their spouses and also their children attended the Basque-Australian get-together.   The great majority were Bizkaian from Gernika who migrated to Australia with their spouses mainly in the 1950s and 1960s.  Over the years the numbers have decreased due to the younger generations as well as those from Nafarroa and Gipuzkoa no longer attending.  Nevertheless there are those who have been faithful from the beginning such as the couple Mario Satika and Begoña Barrutia among others.  The Epermendi restaurant has been the chosen site since 1988 and has also been in charge of choosing the menu  This year an assortment of starters (peppers stuffed with cod asparagus…) gave way to garnished fish and meat dishes ending with a delicious desert of puff pastry cake with vanilla ice cream.  The discussion regarding where the meat came from was animated and not lacking in those who thought it was from Australia although it seemed that not everyone was in agreement.  Without a doubt no one left hungry and “Good Luck” was heard during the toast.  Following the meal there was music of all kinds for those who wished to dance while others took advantage of the time to watch the pilota match at the bar with one of his sons in 2008 was shown on a laptop computer and aroused the curiosity of the guests at the end of the day.  Agur Jaunak with all the guests standing put the finishing touch to a lovely meal that will celebrate its silver anniversary next year a valuable legacy that will hopefully be continued by future generations.  [This article is part of the field work that historian Ainara Puerta Larrañaga has conducted on migration from Bizkaia and consequent return (e-Etorkinak) Oiarzabal and Nerea Mujika of the University of Deusto] Detailed photo caption.  Some of the people who attended the meal at the entrance of the Epermendi restaurant in Amoroto: from left to right in the top row Mario Satika (Ispaster) In the bottom row: Mila Aboitiz (Lekeitio) Jose Ignacio Etxabe (Gautegiz Garteaga) and  Angelita Fundazuri (Lekeitio) (photo by P.J Joan edukira The prestigious travel magazine Condè Nast Traveler has published its selection of the "top ten" towns in the Basque Country The magazine notes that the Basque Country¿s "culture essence and grace" resides in "the small towns which line its valleys It adds that many of the towns "have managed to preserve their beauty and their monuments" and that these constitute "a gift for visitors" The list includes two towns from the Rioja Alavesa: Elciego ¿ which the magazine claims is "much more than just the Marqués del Riscal hotel" ¿ and Laguardia which is praised for its rich heritage as well as the wineries which have made the region so famous The Basque Coast is represented by Elantxobe Getaria (recommended by The New York Times and home to the Balenciaga Museum); Lekeitio (with a special mention for its spectacular beaches); Hondarribia which boasts both a sea port and medieval sights of interest; and Mundaka which the magazine claims "will win the hearts of everyone who visits it" The Basque Country¿s areas of natural beauty are also featured on the list including Azpeitia (in particular the Loiola Sanctuary); Oñati (specifically "its succession of monuments and palatial homes" as well as the University of Sancti Spiritus and the Arantzazu Sanctuary); and Elorrio whose heritage is defined as "astonishing and original" Eusko Jaurlaritzaren Web Zerbitzuak garatutako eta kudeatutako webgunea Here are our picks of the best beaches in Northern Spain David Vives / Unsplash View Tours Playa de la Concha is San Sebastián‘s main city beach It hugs the sweep of the city bay and is lined by elegant buildings such as the green Monte Urgull castle-topped hill it offers the best of both natural and city beaches Lie on the sand or paddle in the calm surf while admiring the picturesque views over Santa Clara Island Deivid Sáenz / Unsplash View Tours Praia das Catedrais can be found between the beaches of Augasantas and Carricelas on the northern Galician coast While this beach may not have your typical soft Karraspio Beach is located just to the edge of the town of Lekeitio in the Basque Country. It lies between the larger cities of Bilbao and San Sebastián and can be reached by train from Bilbao in one hour and 20 minutes The beach offers a long crescent of golden sand backed by lush green hills and bisected by the River Lea Playa de la Magdalena is another of Santander’s beaches It’s a little less crowded and a little more natural than El Sardinero though as it’s located on the Magdalena Peninsula The beach features golden sand and a dedicated sports area Sign up to our newsletter to save up to $800 on our unique trips See privacy policy Praia de Rodas, Islas Cies Praia de Rodas is one of the best beaches in the whole of Spain. It can be likened to the Caribbean due to its flour-white sand and clear, turquoise waters. It lies off the western coast of Galicia on the Cies Islands and is actually part of a protected natural park | Diogo Palhais / Unsplash Playa de Oyambre lies within the Parque Natural de Oyambre near the town of Comillas in Cantabria The beach measures a whopping 1,800 metres (1.1 miles) and is covered with fine grains of golden sand Guides & Tips How to Spend the Perfect 24 Hours in Santander See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Autumn See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in July Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in November Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in December See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in June Food & Drink The 5 Best Food Markets in Madrid Architecture Spain’s Most Impressive Bullrings Guides & Tips How to Attend a Bullfight in Spain See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in September See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in October See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Summer US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000 tripssupport@theculturetrip.com © Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd the largest part of Gipuzkoa was in the hands of the Francoists almost 1,000 civilians from various villages They were forced to go to Lekeitio and crossed the front line on foot denounced that the expulsions of civilians were anti-human the expelled civilians have been honored and given institutional recognition by the Provincial Council of Gipuzkoa and several municipalities of Gipuzkoa A monolith has also been placed in their honor recalled that as a result of the repression suffered by many citizens “they had to leave behind their way of life their happiness and their future” and praised their “courage” “Cultivating memory is the best guarantee of not repeating what happened,” said Chief Power Markel Olano He declares that the tribute and the monolith are “physical and material milestones of the memory of the people” that “will protect the facts from the clutches of oblivion” The Zumaia Jexux Etxabe was one of the deserted civilians and has shared his memories of those days with Baleike.eus He remembers that they were taken from the village and left in Ondarroa from where they arrived on foot to Lekeito: “They left us on the ground and fixed us there We arrived in Kamino because of the roads and the bombardments that were broken and we walked badly in those holes.” They were transferred from Lekeitio to Bilbao where they witnessed the bombing of Gernika: “They made a huge mess the fire went up from the bottom up.” He declared that fear was “the daily bread.” When they saw that they had lost everything “The Zumaia was empty and the fear reigned,” he recalls Pictures of Baleike.eus and Histoaria Zaleak de Ondarroa: (6 de junio de 1940 - 12 de octubre de 2020) Nekane Gavica ha fallecido en Winnemucca (Nevada) a la edad de 80 años (publcado el 15-18 de octubre de 2020 en Reno Journal-Gazette and Mason Valley News, Legacy.com) Dolores (Nekane) Marku Erkiaga Gavica Etcheverry passed away October 12, 2020 in Winnemucca, Nevada after a long battle with lung cancer. She was born in Lekeitio, Bizkaia, Spain June 6, 1940 to Fausto Markes and Antonia Erkiaga. Nekane was educated in Lekeitio by Catholic nuns and studied culinary arts and became an incredibly talented cook. She was an expert in preparing traditional Basque dishes such as paella and ensalada Rusa. Nekane was preceded in death by her parents and brother, Joel Markes. She is survived by her husband, Jerry, sister, Itziar Markes (Iñaki) and brother, Luken Markes (Isabel). She is also survived by several nieces and nephews as well as numerous godchildren. Services for Dolores (Nekane) Markes Erkiaga Gavica Etcheverry will be held at a later date. Camino de Santiago – A young pilgrim with a yellow backpack Spain – Selective focus | Armando Oliveira / Shutterstock the GR38 begins among the vineyards of Oyón and traverses the Bermeo Pass This is the ancient route used by traders who used to bring fish and salt from the coastal towns of Bermeo Ondarroa and Lekeitio and return with wine and grains from the interior regions The whole route is 166km and takes a week to finish but again there are smaller sections you can complete in a day depending on whether you prefer wine or seafood The Ignatian Way recreates the journey of Ignacio de Loyola in the year 1522 from Guipúzcoa in the Basque Country to his birthplace to the Catalan town of Manresa but the part through the Basque Country is 150km long The most significant part of this journey through the Basque Country is from Loiola to Zumarraga Ignacio’s house and the sanctuary church to the chapel of La Antigua in Zumarraga Rural landscape between Loiola and Zumarraga in Gipuzkoa in the Basque Country | FOTOADICTA / Shutterstock The GR120 Named the ‘Route of Three Temples’ the GR120 follows part of the same route as the Ignatian Way The first stage is as described above from Loiola to Zumarraga while the second stage continues on to the sanctuary church of Arantzazu large swathes of forest and the Parque de Mirandaola The Painted Forest of Oma is located in the UNESCO listed Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve one of the most important natural areas in the Basque Country Visitors will find a well-marked trail through this quirky forest All recommendations have been independently sourced by Culture Trip Read Next Architecture Spain’s Most Impressive Bullrings Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in August