Galician winery Lagar de Fornelos has named winemaker Olga Verde as its new technical director following the retirement of Ángel Suárez
Two new appointments have been announced at Lagar de Fornelos in Rías Baixas following the retirement of Ángel Suárez
who served as technical director for over three decades
while Rubén de Castro will oversee the producer’s viticulture
with both set to work under the guidance of Julio Sáenz
Verde holds a degree in agricultural engineering and oenology
as well as a Master of Business Administration
She has also served as the director of the Bierzo Enotourism Association
and gained a breadth of international wine knowledge in years spent as a sommelier
Verde will oversee the production of several brands
Lagar de Cervera is the winery’s longstanding Albariño brand
dating back to the group’s purchase of the estate in 1988
Pazo de Seoane launched with the 2014 vintage
using both Albariño and other native grapes sourced from the O Rosal subregion
while Lindeiros joined the portfolio in 2024
Meanwhile de Castro will manage Lagar de Fornelos’ 106 hectares of estate vineyards
divided into 88 hectares in O Rosal and 18 in O Salnés
Those vineyards are primarily planted with Albariño grapes
alongside recent plantings of native varieties such as Loureiro
He takes up the post with a background in agricultural engineering and a master’s degree in plant health
La Rioja Alta Group described both Verde and de Castro as approaching their new roles with enthusiasm and responsibility
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the reputation of Rías Baixas as the country’s top white wine region is intrinsically connected to its signature grape variety: Albariño
As Albariño gains increasing popularity among curious consumers and vintners focus on sustainable viticulture
Rías Baixas is poised to gain even more recognition in the years to come
Tucked away in the far northwest corner of Spain
this Rías Baixas defies expectations of most Spanish regions
nestled along the Atlantic coastline of Galicia
Crisscrossed by winding rivers and intersected by fjords
many think it more closely resembles Ireland than it does the rest of Spain
Rías Baixas has become synonymous with its signature white grape variety: Albariño
which accounts for over 90 percent of plantings
Rías Baixas Albariño represents the pinnacle of what this increasingly popular grape can achieve
This is largely thanks to the specific terroir of Rías Baixas
which is unreplicated elsewhere: Atlantic influences combine with granite and schist soils to create the wines’ high natural acidity
It also hinges on Rías Baixas’ long history with the Albariño grape; vintners have decades of experience honing this variety
Driven today by a large community of small-parcel growers with a focus on quality wines and family legacies
the wines of Rías Baixas are pristine expressions of this unique Spanish terroir
With a focus on expanding sustainability practices and nearly over half of the wineries led by women winemakers
Rías Baixas is a region that is simultaneously rooted in tradition yet propelling the Spanish wine industry into the future
the jagged coastline of Rías Baixas boasts a number of estuaries and small fjords which contribute to the cool
The name “Rías Baixas” is an homage to these geographic features
translating literally to “low estuaries.” About 3,600 hectares are planted to vineyards situated between 100 and 300 meters in altitude
Located in the region of Galicia in Spain’s northwest corner
Rías Baixas abuts the Atlantic Ocean and is separated from northern Portugal by the Miño River
maritime climate is characterized by the influence of the Atlantic Ocean
which yields heavy annual rainfall and gives the verdant region its nickname “Green Spain.” Though Rías Baixas experiences an average annual rainfall of 1,600 millimeters—nearly three times the national average rainfall in Spain—this high precipitation is balanced by 2,200 hours of sunshine annually
Winters are characterized by a combination of heavy rainfall and moderate temperatures
presenting challenging conditions for mold
but frost is rarely an issue in the region
The summer season in Rías Baixas is significantly drier
slow ripening and the production of complex wines
As a result of the high humidity and rainfall in Rías Baixas
many vineyards are trellised using the traditional parra system
which elevates vines up to seven feet from the ground
this system encourages ventilation and prevents mold and rot from developing in the humid climate
The primary soils of Rías Baixas are mineral-heavy deposits of granite and schist
the large rivers and tributaries that dissect the region have left certain areas with significant pockets of alluvial and colluvial soils
There is a low amount of organic material in the thin topsoils of the region
yet a significant amount of minerals—a combination ideal for producing sleek and characterful Albariños
The histories of Rías Baixas and the Albariño grape variety are inextricable: Originally cultivated by Roman conquerors who brought organized viticulture
and trade to the verdant slopes of ancient Galicia
Albariño has been grown on the banks of the Umia and Miño rivers for over 1,000 years
and regional cuisines have developed alongside this indigenous grape
making Rías Baixas the global epicenter for Albariño today
While local folklore suggested Albariño was brought to Spain by Cisternian monks traveling from Burgundy
new research indicates the grape is a descendant of a wild Spanish variety that was domesticated gradually and cultivated in its current form as early as Roman times
Rías Baixas was heavily influenced by Celtic traditions which can be seen in the region’s unique dialect (Gallego) and architecture
Spain created a denomination specifically for Albariño from Rías Baixas known as La Denominación Específica Albariño
which morphed into the Rías Baixas DO in 1988 when the region gained Denominación de Origen status
As the region expanded and modernization offered vintners more specific data about their respective terroirs
the appellation consisted of three subzones (Val do Salnés
with Soutomaior joining in 1996 and Ribeira de Ulla being added in 2000
Since Spain began exporting these wines in the 1980s
Rías Baixas Albariño has been the country’s most successful white wine export
While Rías Baixas produces wines in a wide range of styles including red and sparkling wines (labeled Rías Baixas Tinto and Rías Baixas Espumoso
over 99 percent of all wine produced in Rías Baixas is white
Any wine carrying the Rías Baixas Albariño designation on the label is required to be 100 percent Albariño
while Rías Baixas wines which do not carry Albariño on the label may blend several approved varieties
Vintners may also label their wines according to the subzones Val do Salnés
and O Rosal if all of the grapes are grown in that specific subzone; Rías Baixas O Rosal must contain at least 70 percent Albariño and Loureiro
Rías Baixas Condado do Tea must contain at least 70 percent Albariño and Treixadura
and Rías Baixas Val do Salnés must contain at least 70 percent Albariño
which is home to the largest hectares of Albariño vines planted in the world
Rías Baixas has also cemented Albariño’s signature style: aromatic
The wines are typically fermented and aged in stainless steel or other inert tanks in order to preserve the variety’s trademark freshness on the palate
though some producers are experimenting with barrel-aged versions
Loureiro is known for its distinctive floral
It’s popular in the O Rosal subzone and in the neighboring Portuguese region of Minho
Treixadura is known for lending orchard fruit characteristics and floral aromas to wines
and Godello are permitted in Rías Baixas wines
though they are planted in small quantities
Permitted red grapes in Rías Baixas include Caiño Tinto
Though rarely found outside the local region
these reds are known for their distinctive aromas and flavors
and they are expected to become more popular in the coming years
The Rías Baixas DO contains five officially recognized subzones
each of which produces a unique style of Albariño as a result of climatic nuances
All five appellations are also permitted to produce red and sparkling wines
but Albariño remains the calling card for each subzone
Val do Salnés is the original and oldest subzone of Rías Baixas
it is believed to be the birthplace of Albariño and boasts the highest concentration of wineries
The soils in Val do Salnés are dominated by granite with alluvial topsoils
the average daily temperature is just 55°F
Condado do Tea is the second-largest subzone of Rías Baixas as well as the most inland
Lying further from the coast and on mountainous terroir made up of granite and slate soils
Though the average annual temperature is around 59°F
it can reach 104°F during the summer months
The O Rosal appellation lies alongside the Miño River where it joins the Atlantic
Vineyards are terraced along the riverbanks and planted on granite and alluvial soils
Soutomaior lies on the Atlantic coast south of Val do Salnés
sandy soils that lie above granite bedrock characterize this area
Ribeira do Ulla is the lone fully landlocked subzone of Rías Baixas
Located just southeast of Santiago de Compostela
recently surpassing Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio with a 17 percent increase in growth
according to IRI scan data—and because 90 percent of Albariño produced worldwide comes from Rías Baixas
the region is increasingly on consumer radars as well
Driven by continued consumer desire for exploration beyond familiar grapes and regions
Albariño from Rías Baixas is perfectly positioned for success
A relatively small region that has only been exporting wine for about 40 years
one that is dedicated to preserving its unique culture and family legacies of winemaking
These wines aren’t produced by huge conglomerates; they come from small growers who have a connection to this land and the Albariño grape
Rías Baixas also celebrates its long tradition of women winemakers
with over half of the wineries currently helmed by women
Rías Baixas vintners are displaying a strong commitment to sustainability
While only a handful of the over 180 wineries in the region currently hold a sustainability certificate
a large percentage are already practicing sustainable farming across their vineyards
the number of growers with sustainability certificates is expected to grow
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Flint Wines has announced it is introducing a new addition to its portfolio to mark a milestone in a strategic partnership with Hatch Mansfield
The wholesaler and importer has sold 10,000 bottles of Hatch Mansfield agency wines to the on-trade since the start of the year
Flint has introduced a new addition to its portfolio: the 2023 Orballo Albariño from Bodegas La Val
This wine will be available exclusively from Flint in London from August 2024
is grown in the south-east facing Vilachán vineyards in the O Rosal sub-region of Rías Baixas
The grapes are hand-harvested and fermented in steel tanks
with the wine remaining on its lees until bottling in the spring
The news comes two years after Hatch Mansfield teamed up with Flint Wines to distribute wines from the Spanish producer C.V.N.E
Gearoid Devaney, Flint Wines director
mineral Albariño from Bodegas La Val
He notes that although it’s Flint’s first Albariño
highlighting the consistent quality of C.V.N.E.’s wines
Hatch Mansfield director of regional sales
added: “We’re delighted with the success of our first few years working with Flint Wines as a key on-trade partner so this is a natural extension
Flint’s exceptional expertise has helped us to grow a number of our key agencies and we’re delighted to see Bodegas La Val being added
We know the team at Flint understands the wider C.V.N.E
philosophy that great wine is made in the vineyard and we’re excited about Flint’s ability to now offer this top quality Albariño to a wider London audience.”
Flint has secured listings with notable venues including Hawksmoor
Flint Wines offers a range of wines from C.V.N.E
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in her home while listening to her beloved birds chirping and surrounded by her loving family
Cathy was born Cathy Lee Pates on October 6
She loved owls and fairies and was known to have a wonderful collection in her home
She was known for her love of her collection of owls and fairies
Cathy also had a special love for her finches and parakeets that kept her company with their delightful conversation
She enjoyed talking about her fruit trees and the beautiful flowers in her yard
She would often sit outside to relax and feel the plants on her fingertips
She also enjoyed listening to music and watching old movies
you would have a chance to dance and sing with her
Cathy lost her vision in her early 40’s but that didn’t stop her from cooking (with butter)
Ernest Charles Pates and Alice Mae Pates; and daughter
Cathy is survived by her husband of 30 years
Cindy Flowers; 10 grandchildren; and two great nephews
A memorial service will be held at 2:00PM on Thursday
at the Bradford-O’Keefe Funeral Home
Bradford-O’Keefe Funeral Home is honored to serve the family and friends of Cathy Lee Wilson
Bradford O'Keefe Funeral Home - Pass Road
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they are making huge efforts to establish the subzones in a context all of their own
whilst remaining true to pure Atlantic Albariño,” writes Turner.I’m very lucky to have travelled throughout many of the wine regions of Spain
but Rías Baixas is one that has so far alluded me
this relatively cool and wet part of the country is signified by Galicia being known as ‘Green Spain’
With the Atlantic Ocean to the west and the Cantabrian Sea to the north
the average July weather has more in common with London and Edinburgh than it does Madrid
but overall Rías Baixas has become synonymous with this one white grape variety that has taken so kindly to the granite subsoils and ocean breezes
Rías Baixas means “low estuaries” in Galician
Up and down the coast sit five designated sub-regions for the DO
each with their own climatic and geographical differences
and Condado Do Tea make up the list that hug the Ulla
three make up the vast majority of plantings and production
with O Rosal and Condado do Tea to the south on the Portuguese border
Val do Salnés is the oldest and original subzone
Given its openness to the Atlantic and its relatively long coast line
it’s also the region’s coolest and wettest subzone
It’s also home to most of the wineries and vineyard
making up nearly 60% of vineyard area of Rías Baixas
Travellers to the region in August are encouraged to head into central Cambados on the 1st for the Fiesta Del Albariño
a local celebration that has been going on since the 1960s and is also now the date of World Albariño Day
The Tea is a tributary of the Miño and is spread over rugged and mountainous terrain to the south contiguous to the border with Portugal over the main river
meaning this is a warmer and drier region giving wine expressions with noticeably richer flavours and more tropical fruit
The final subzone of the big three is O Rosal at 13% of the vineyard
This neighbours Condado do Tea to the west and stretches along the Miño and the Portuguese border to the Atlantic coast
with terraced vineyards dotted along the valley
it’s the region with significant plantings of Loureiro and Caiño Blanco which are often used in a blend with Albariño
Trellised vines help to increase airflow and reduce mould in this very humid region
One of the key features of the whole of Rías Baixas is the granitic soil
including the famous Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela at the end of the pilgrimage route that brings thousands of devoted tourists to the region each year
it is also key to the famous minerality you get in these wines across all sub-regions
It’s also used as posts to hold up trellises
These posts have a dual function where they absorb the warm summer heat and slowly release at night to promote ripening
There are over 20,000 individual vineyard plots
This is very much an artisanal rather than industrial set-up
it has the same number of growers as Burgundy
but with just a sixth of the vineyard area and 5% of the producers
The DO itself was inaugurated in 1988 with just 30 wineries to start with
By 1990 they were producing around 3.1 million litres of wine
Fast forward to 2021 (the latest official figures) and both production numbers and producers’ numbers have grown significantly
with 179 wineries producing 30.1 million litres of wine
with the UK one of the region’s top markets
as well as the all-important domestic market
that the producers of Rías Baixas now turn to promote the nuances and complexities of their product
It can be too easy to dismiss a region with
one main grape variety and one over-arching climate
As producers look to get consumers to trade up to better quality wines and more elaborate styles
whilst remaining true to pure Atlantic Albariño
Five producers joined a recent online call
kindly donating and presenting a wine from each of their portfolios
with each expressing the styles of their respective sub-regions
This traditional method sparkler was presented by winemaker Jorge Hervella
it stays for up to 18 months on the lees but never loses its zingy
The fresh green and citrus fruit and the fresh bubbles are joined by a grainy minerality that can’t help but remind you that you’re drinking an Albariño from Rías Baixas
This wine is part of the La Rioja Alta group and was presented by its export manager Fernando Goy
The idea with this cuvée is to go full classic
The wine spends just three months on the lees for some varietal structure
maceration and cool fermentation has left a refreshing wine of lemons
peaches and golden apples with that beautiful freshness
minerality and saltiness you associate with this coastal sub-region
Enjoy with the utterly delicious ‘goose feet’ barnacles
Marqués de Vargas is a famed and historic producer from Rioja who took control of this 16th century winery from 2003
Current winemaker Susana Perez was keen to highlight the prime postion
with vineyards planted on terraces with southern orientation giving important sun and light throughout the growing season
Condado do Tea is the warmest subzone in Rías Baixas and gives concentrated wines with this one showing necatrine
and a rounder body with calmer acidity but still plenty to be balanced
One third of the grapes are subject to whole bunch vinification giving higher levels of aromatics including orange blossom and cashew nut
Still very much an Atlantic wine with salinity and minerality in abundance
it’s apparently a perfect match for Japanese food
this producer celebrated its first vintage in 1982
This was a time where it was widely accepted that wines from Rías Baixas needed to be drunk within 6 to 12 months
Bodegas Castro Martin went against tradition
ageing their wines on the lees for 6-8 months and not releasing them to the market until May the following year
Their mantra that Albariño does have ageing potential has finally been accepted by some producers across the region
and they remain one of the champions of this style
On the nose you’re still getting fresh apples
there is saltiness and this fabulous acidity and minerality from the soil
Apparently an utter joy with a plate of oysters
Young winemaker Diego Ríos is now at the helm of this winery founded in 1981 and another of the founder wineries in the DO
to have vineyards of their own next to the winery and the Granbaźan Don Álvaro is made from 100% estate grown grapes
which is both very poor and quick draining
This means the usually vigourous Albariño is more sparse here
with smaller berries and more sun exposure producing a muscular and rich wine that is aged on the lees for 24-30 months in stainless steel
The nose still has sharp lemon but with smoke
The palate has all these things and more whilst still staying true to that tell-tale minerality and the salty aftertaste
buttery dishes such as mushroom risotto or creamy Indian food
For more information on the wines of Rías Baixas, please contact Alison Dillon on Alison@dillonmorrall.com
and educator and regular contributor for The Buyer
that explores and discusses the idea of sustainability in the wine trade
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The Galician rider Gabriel Marcelli born in O Rosal in 04/02/2000
Is one of the young talents in Trial competition
Born in the town of O Rosal (Pontevedra) in 2000
Gabriel Marcelli is one of the young talents in Trial competition
He arrived in the World Championship in 2020 and joined the Repsol Honda Trial Team
In 2019 he was proclaimed World Champion in Trial2 and European Champion
and additionally he has earned several victories in the Spanish Championship
This season will be his second with the Repsol Honda Trial Team
The 24-year-old Spaniard finished third in the X-Trial and second in the TrialGP championships and will be looking to improve his results this season
in which he finished second overall last year
his goal will be to fight for wins and challenge for the title
The young Galician rider Gabriel Marcelli (04/02/2000) made his debut in the Repsol Honda Team in 2022 and continues to ride the Montesa Cota 4RT for the team
Born in the town of O Rosal (Pontevedra) in 2000
the Spaniard finished third in the X-Trial and TrialGP championships and will be looking to improve his results this season
in which he finished third overall last year
I have been very careful not to complain too much about the recent heat wave
since I know what we will be surrounded by a few months from now
The humid weather this summer has just encouraged me to find more exciting white wines to add to my repertoire
Albariño is a Spanish white that is often referred to as “the wine of the sea.” It is made from a grape of the same name
and produced in a region called Rias Baixas (pronounced REE-ahs BY-shus) in northwestern Spain
you’ll see that Rias Baixas belongs to the province of Galicia which lies on the Atlantic coast of Spain
The word “rias” refers to the coastal inlets or estuaries that connect to the ocean there
Four main inlets form a geological pattern looking like the imprints of a hand
Legend says that they are the traces left by the fingers of God when he stopped to rest in Galicia during the creation
These inlets are both saltwater (from the ocean) and freshwater (from the inland rivers that they meet)
and the local white wines are a match made in heaven
To choose a favorite Albariño wine for this week’s “Wine to Try” was really tough
and then enlisted the help of an enthusiastic group of tasters to tell me which one stood out
Burgans wines are made by the Martin Codax Winery
which also makes a stunning Albariño wine under its own label
The Burgans Albariño is named after a hill on which the winery is located
The vineyards here look out over one of the ocean inlets called “Ria de Arousa,” and the saline character of the sea has a knack of coming through in the mineral-driven flavor of the wines
This is the same grape as the Portuguese “alvarinho,” which is the basis of many of the Vinho Verde wines just over the border
This wine is aged totally in stainless steel (no oak influence)
Here’s a bit of info for any wine geeks out there
There are five sub-regions of Rias Baixas that you will often see on the wine labels
These are Val do Salnes (the oldest region and the coolest climate)
Ribeira do Ulla (the newest region along the Ulla River)
Condado do Tea (which means “the country of Tea” and is named after the Tea River)
and O Rosal (right along the border of Portugal)
The grapes for Burgans Albariño come from the Val do Salnes (Salnes Valley)
and is known as the birthplace of the Albariño grape
Taste: This is a dry white wine that has lots of pretty aromatics
It’s got a bit of honeysuckle on the nose
Albariño is an elegant wine that has a nice balance of acidity
and is just about as refreshing as the ocean itself
The most popular descriptors from our tasting panel were “smooth” and “delicious.” It makes a great aperitif wine before dinner
but it is at its best when reunited with flavors from the sea
Food pairings: The “rias” of Rias Baixas are loaded with fresh seafood
I mentioned Albariño’s great affinity for clams casino in the last column
You can add to that oysters on the half shell
swordfish kabobs and Thai red curry mussels
Albariño is wonderful with goat’s milk cheeses too
a cheese made in the neighboring province of Asturias that is definitely worth searching out
Albariño has been keeping me cool all summer
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Orujo is a customary after-dinner brandy liqueur made from local grape skins and herbs
I’m drinking it in Figueiro, a small town in the Rias Baixas region of Galicia
I’m visiting friends who have returned home from living on the Mediterranean island of Ibiza
but its bone-white limestone bays and calm seas are a world away from this wild Atlantic coastline
Forget bullfights and olive groves—Galicia is a place of sea mists and secret coves
It’s also home to the pale green grape variety that provides Spain’s most sought-after white wines—Albariño
Don Paco makes sure I taste from all the bottles
explaining the distillation process that begins after the autumn grape harvests in his vineyards
He explains that the bagasse—the leftover skins and pulp from squeezing the grapes for wine making—is collected and distilled in traditional stills called alambiques
It’s a deceptively simple process that he has been perfecting in his bodega for decades
as “made in Paco.” I think he means “made in Paco’s bodega.”
Tucked away in the northwest corner of the Iberian peninsula
and fjords are often overlooked by travelers and expats
A couple of hundred miles north from the Rias Baixas region
the well-known Camino de Santiago leads to the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela
It’s the centerpiece of a medieval town visited by throngs of pilgrims who trek hundreds of miles across the Pyrenees mountains from France in search of spiritual inspiration and dramatic scenery
are mostly known to enophiles (wine lovers)
They come to enjoy Albariño—a dry white wine native to these mountains
This region of deep fjords (rias baixas) marks the frontier of Portugal and Spain
It’s the perfect starting point for the Ruta do Viño (Wine Route)
but it’s only recently that the vineyards and wineries of Galicia have come to international attention
it’s in that sweet spot where the tourist infrastructure is there
The Rias Baixas Wine Route covers five subzones of western Galicia
It runs northwards from the border with Portugal
but O’Rosal in Pontevedra province boasts a wide range of travel and leisure options along with an impressive landscape full of history and nature
starting their journey at Monte Tecla in A Guarda
you can walk through a perfectly preserved Celtic citadel
an archeological site that dates from the 4th century B.C
head down to A Guarda’s port for a seafood meal of gigantic proportions
Several restaurants perch on the water’s edge
but at Xeito (Avenida de Fernandez Albor 19) you can enjoy the local seafood while admiring a panoramic view of the town
Area Grande restaurant (Playa Area Grande s/n) is a refined option tucked away in a cove near town
Ease your digestion by walking around the pedestrian-friendly coastal town
and admire the ocean views from the observation points
Walk two minutes from the harbor and you can spend the night in the Hotel Convento de San Benito
an exquisite hotel in a 16th-century former convent with a garden
If spending a night steeped in history is not your thing
Vila da Guarda is a straightforward option with modern rooms and apartments in the middle of town ($60-100 per night
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follow the Miño upriver and visit the Terras Gaudas winery in O’Rosal to get an idea of where these elegant grapes grow
Terras Gaudas is one of a consortium of four wineries that represent the four principal wine regions of Galicia
They’re one of the most respected winemaking groups in Spain
All four estates welcome visitors for tasting/educational experiences
After getting your fill and packing a few bottles for the road
head along the river’s banked terraces towards Tui
a walled medieval city on the shores of the Miño originally founded by Romans in the 1st century B.C
The Romans were late to Tui—archaeological findings date habitations in this region to more than 5,000 years ago
the official entrance to Galicia for trekkers on the Camino de Santiago
Although the route from France is much better known
an equally ancient way leads north to Santiago from Portugal.A walled city originally founded by the Romans.Walkers mingle on Tui’s ancient cobblestone streets every summer
Start your exploration at the imposing gothic Tui Cathedral that dominates the landscape from the highest point of the city
It’s been the focal point of the town since it was consecrated in 1225 A.D
a steakhouse with a terrace that overlooks the valley below
It’s a good viewpoint of the impressive town fortifications
Enjoy the view and your plate of classic Spanish dishes with a glass or bottle of local Caiño or Espadeiro
but known only to the most knowledgeable of wine enthusiasts
walk downhill to stroll along the riverside pathway and enjoy the landscape views of Valenca
another impressive walled city on the Portuguese side of the river
The Parador de Tui is located farther down the banks of the Miño river ($115 to $200 per night
Paradores are Spain’s state-sponsored hotels and lodgings
Most of them are refurbished historical grand houses and palaces
and offer a luxury hotel experience within the surrounds of fairytale properties
Tui’s parador is an artfully renovated Galician country house built from cut granite and local chestnut beams
the Colón Tuy hotel has large modern rooms and is closer to the center of town ($65 to $120 per night
after a dose of fortified cities you crave open spaces
Once you’re refreshed and fortified with a good breakfast
head back into the countryside to explore the classy Santiago Ruiz Winery
where you can learn about this family’s traditional winemaking process and their profound influence on the Albariño grape cultivation in the 19th century
Close out the day at Taperia A Carla in nearby Tomiño
a restaurant tucked into the deciduous forest with well prepared regional food and friendly service
It’s where I learned about the challenges and rewards of harvesting local grapes
Traveling through this unspoiled valley between ocean and mountains; from river shores through medieval cities and ancient forests
I learned all about the blend of alchemy and perseverance that turns grapes into wine
you can also produce orujo—the very essence of this wild corner of Iberia
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There are other parts of the country that are wet – the coast of the Basque country
Spain’s Atlantic northwest corner always seems to be under a damp duvet of clouds
is one of the two wettest in Spain (according to Aemet data
The southern viticultural regions of Condado do Tea and O Rosal
No wonder Galicians consider morriña (melancholy) to be part of their DNA
of course – with the exception of the late-picked 2021 growing season
recent harvests have been hotter and (relatively speaking) drier – but this is still a cool
Organic viticulture may be inadvisable because of the risk of vineyard diseases, but the prevailing conditions are well suited to the production of the fresh, tangy white wines that have made Galicia’s name over the last couple of decades, especially with Albariño in its best sub-region
“That rare film which offers a roadmap to our survival but also finds a way to burrow itself deep into the crevices of our subconscious
changing the way we do things in our daily lives.”
Danish filmmaker and artist Robin Petré has dedicated her work to exploring human-animal relations and what our coexistence means
In her latest documentary Only on Earth she takes us deep into the dry bush of Galicia in Spain
one of the most fire-prone terrains on earth
through the eyes of those who call it home
a vet but also a badass who can ride as well as the male cowboys and who has dedicated her life to horses
wine-rich lands of O Rosal and it proves a haunting look into our own future on earth
With Los Angeles still reeling from the fires that razed two antique and historical communities – Altadena and Pacific Palisades – to the ground
and the recent fire in London which shut down indefinitely the venue where one of the BAFTA afterparties was to take place
we should now know what fires represent for the human condition
And yet we create more and more opportunities for our world to go up in smoke.
as Petré’s doc so wisely allows us to realize
man is born with an insatiable desire to destroy nature
During an unsettling scene between little Pedro and his buddy
as one declares “I bent a tree!” with pride
Then they run off on their way to more boyish games
yelling intermittently “run!” at each other
battling for survival every day of his existence
Pedro is a regular human – unable to help himself.
The film’s title credits play at the start over a black screen
as we hear what we believe to be the ticking of nails typing on a keyboard
it was no surprise that’s what I figured it to be
another unsettling reminder of our existence on earth
The flickering embers of a fire burning bright light up the screen
Another manmade sound which turns out to be not what we expect is the droning of mechanical windmills
The doc tells us that animals often get into trouble trying to avoid the intrusive presence of these mills
US President Trump recently proved that old American saying that even a broken clock is right twice a day
when he vowed to stop the use of windmill farms due to their unsustainability.
Only on Earth is full of wisdoms that we need to witness for ourselves to really allow them to sink in
that “wild animals would rather go back into the flames than come near humans.” But also the strange dance that Pedro and his horse perform
as the young cowboy is trying to brush him down
but also distrust between the human and his animal
and the horse keeps looking for Pedro’s eyes
to understand if what he’s going to do next is going to hurt or feel fine
It’s like a line in the film’s press kit which lingers on in my thoughts: “…the animals
who are always returning our gaze when we look at them.” When instead
we humans will do our evil hiding behind policies and announcements without ever catching their gaze
or even being in their presence.
Through the masterful cinematography of María Goya Barquet
Only on Earth becomes that rare film which offers a roadmap to our survival but also finds a way to burrow itself deep into the crevices of our subconscious
changing the way we do things in our daily lives
if it plays on a streaming platform you’re subscribed to
because although the film would be best viewed on a big screen
watching it – by any means necessary – is a must.
As Spain’s best-known white wine region matures
its producers are experimenting with subregionality
the region of Rías Baixas has grown from a nascent appellation to
Recent vintages have sold quickly—while the 2021 vintage is not completely sold out
according to Rías Baixas DO representatives
many wineries have sold out of their 2021 stocks—particularly in the U.S.
Much of this success has hinged on a single grape: Albariño
a local white variety that comprises 95 percent of the vines planted in Rías Baixas and is typically made into a bright
This laser-sharp focus has likely helped a tongue-twister like Rías Baixas Albariño chart a course to recognition amidst more recognizable grapes like Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc
“The market tends to respond favorably to defined grapes and styles as it can become an easy shorthand when you’ve had a few examples,” says Jim Bube, MS, the Chicago-based wine director for Hogsalt
“Odds are very good that the bottle they pick up off of a shelf or wine list will contain that salty
producers are going beyond the signature style of wine that the region has become known for
emphasizing subregional terroir specificities
and focusing on local grape varieties beyond Albariño
A new face of Spain’s superstar white wine region is emerging—but is the market ready for it
“Having sold Rías Baixas wines in some capacity for about 20 years
it seems as though the category continues to get hotter every year,” says Bube
racy wines unencumbered by oak are having a moment in the U.S.
and Rías Baixas has made a strong case for being Spain’s greatest expression of this style.”
as one of the first very expensive Albariños to reach the U.S
“It came with a story—it was rare and allocated,” says Yoshida
As consumers have become more familiar with Rías Baixas and its Albariño wines, they too have started to crave more from this region. “Consumers are demanding and looking for different, more complex, and surprising wines that they can find in Rías Baixas with the Albariño grape,” says Katia Álvarez, the winemaker for Bodegas Martin Códax in the Salnés Valley
“More interesting is to talk about the diversity of terroirs
“I think there is a more interesting story to be told about regionality and [how] the grapes excel in these subzones than in more ambitious stylistic flexes in the winery,” says Bube
Though many wineries don’t emphasize their wines’ subregions of origin on the label just yet
most of them can be identified by subregion according to where the winery itself is located
Sommeliers like Bube and Yoshida notice distinctive differences from one subzone to the next
“If I’m at a nice restaurant and you’re pairing Albariño
I don’t think it’s sufficient to just say ‘Rías Baixas Albariño’ at this point,” says Yoshida
“I want to know why you’re picking Rías Baixas from this subregion
the Salnés Valley is the original core of Rías Baixas
home to the most vineyards and the most growers
Condado do Tea is the second-largest subregion of Rías Baixas, located inland along the Miño River, which narrowly separates Rías Baixas from Portugal and its Vinho Verde region
Since it is largely protected from ocean influences
O Rosal, located south of Salnés and west of Condado do Tea, sits at the intersection of the Miño River and the Atlantic Ocean. Though it has plenty of ocean influence, it has more sun and less rain than the Salnés Valley; Albariño tends to be more aromatic and floral in this area, says Luisa Freire, the winemaker for local producer Santiago Ruiz
There’s also the approach of getting experimental in the cellar
I think we have seen a quiet movement of change,” says Álvarez
noting that Albariño tends to maintain its personality even when subjected to different winemaking techniques
“Many producers have started to make new and different Albariño vinifications which are now reaching the market.”
Albariño was nearly always produced as a young wine in stainless steel vessels; if a producer decided to do something different it was usually using oak
Despite the popularity of her Martin Códax and Burgans Albariños—two of the most popular and available Rías Baixas wines in the U.S
market—Álvarez is also committed to breaking the idea that Albariño is only a young wine
“We have all the necessary ingredients to make wines with good natural aging potential by themselves through fine lees agings
pointing to Albariño’s natural acidity and pH levels
“So it has always been key to me to show this good natural aging potential of Albariño.” The Martin Códax Lías
Pazo de Señorans
first released an aged Albariño in 1995: the Selección de Añada
which sees a minimum of 30 months on the lees and is vinified from a single plot (the current vintage on the market is 2013)
“The market was not very receptive in the beginning,” says Vicky Mareque
the winemaker and second-generation owner of Pazo de Señorans
it is very well accepted and appreciated.” The introduction of Colección in 2014
which is aged in bottle for three years with at least five months of lees aging
was much smoother as consumer attitudes had changed
it’s much more common for Rías Baixas producers to age their wines
“It allows us to show what a great variety Albariño is in Rías Baixas
able to produce old wines that have aged beautifully without oak,” says Mareque
“It took some time to get buyers and consumers to understand the aging potential of Albariño,” agrees Lange
“but recently we have experienced much more acceptance and appreciation for it.” Most of Granbazán’s wines are aged for several months on fine lees before bottling
including market favorites Etiqueta Verde and Etiqueta Ambar
and their Limousin Albariño is aged for four to six months in large
Though the words Rías Baixas and Albariño have become somewhat synonymous
Albariño is not the only local grape planted in this region
Rías Baixas has long counted tiny but notable plots of white varieties like Loureiro
and Caiño Blanco and red grapes like Mencía
and Caiño Tinto—and more producers are starting to look beyond their favored variety
Some trade professionals think this emphasizes how Rías Baixas has evolved over time
“That is a mature wine region that uses Albariño as a gateway but says
the winery’s namesake cuvée is always a blend from vineyards owned by the estate—as it has been for decades
Though the Santiago Ruiz blend is predominantly Albariño
Freire is a firm believer in the potential of Loureiro from O Rosal
Of O Rosal’s non-Albariño grapes, Caiño Blanco is the most produced—likely thanks to the efforts of Emilio Rodriguez, the winemaker for local winery Terras Gauda
“Despite being one of the most delicate varieties to grow due to its sensitivity to diseases
the variety should grow [in plantings],” he says
highlighting Caiño Blanco’s richness and complexity
and ability to express the region’s schistous soils
Terras Gauda is home to 76 percent of the Caiño Blanco grown in the region
and Rodriguez produces a near-varietal Caiño Blanco called La Mar (the 2020 vintage included two percent of blended Albariño and Loureiro)
Despite lacking the name recognition of the Albariño variety
Terras Gauda has found success thanks to their devotion to the obscure grape
the tiny bunches of Caiño Blanco open doors for us,” says Mar Dopazo
“Caiño makes Terras Gauda unique and links us to the O Rosal subregion.” Though he notes that they often need to offer a bit of initial explanation about the grape
more trade members and consumers are interested in learning more about other options within Rías Baixas
“Caiño Blanco grown in O Rosal was a revelation for me,” Bube confirms
Though red wines remain fairly niche in the Rías Baixas
the success of other Galician reds—like Ribeira Sacra’s Mencía wines—could also point to opportunities for future growth
“We can’t forget that Rías Baixas makes red
which is a huge opportunity with climate change,” says Yoshida
easy-drinking style of Albariño that has charted its success thus far—nor should it
“While there will be innovators in style looking to differentiate themselves in the marketplace
I don’t see the predominant style going away,” says Bube
or very long lees aging seems to me unlikely and unwise.”
Maintaining availability and accessibility of these entry-level wines will be important for Rías Baixas
particularly because demand has grown so much
“They cannot let the wine become too expensive
so they need to grow their supply at the introductory level,” says Yoshida
He posits that the region could use available land in Soutomaior and Ribeira do Ulla
two subzones that were traditionally not planted as readily due to frost concerns
Availability of more premium wines is an issue as well; more specialized cuvées from large and mid-sized producers are limited in production, and smaller producers like Bodegas Albamar, Forjas del Salnés
and Nanclares y Prieto own only a handful of vineyard hectares (though some purchase grapes as well)
Vineyard ownership in Rías Baixas is fragmented; there are over 5,000 growers for the region’s 4,000 hectares
many producers see more terroir-specific and longer-aged wines
potentially from a wider range of varieties
“These are the wines that are positioning Rías Baixas among one of the most premium white wine regions in the world,” says Álvarez
“We need to continue the path of showing the premium aspects of Albariño: aging potential and diversity of terroirs,” adds Lange
it’s a signal that Rías Baixas has come into its own
“Rías Baixas has evolved to a more professional area
with an interest in new methods of winemaking and more premiumization of our wines,” says Dopazo
“We’re a region with an international calling
and the only challenge in the years to come is being able to supply the increasing international demand.”
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The panel felt it was a tasting of two extremes. Pierre Mansour explained: ‘There were some truly great wines with real identity, class and intensity, but at the same time they were light and gentle in structure and alcohol. There were no poor or faulty wines, but too many neutral ones.’
But it wasn’t all bad. The best examples did impress the judges, who were not shy in waxing lyrical about their quality.
This week find five Rías Baixas Albariños recommended by Decanter judges, with three scoring above 93 points and three available to buy in China.
Delicate nose of suave peach and lemon. An elegant, subtle style with mineral flavours and a lively palate. Well-made if a touch simple.
Discreet, nutty nose with dried herb aromatics. Round palate with citrus deliciousness and nicely textured with a grippy finish. Showing some development.
A vivid, youthful style, full of energy despite its age. Aromatic nose with a flinty freshness and a creamy, biscuity palate. It displays a huge lift of acidity and intense flavour; very long and very impressive.
Subtle smoky, herbal refined nose. Ripe apple fruit, lemon curd and marmalade. Gradually it grows on you. So unlike the other wines. Silky persistent palate; really very ripe with succulent apricots.
Appealingly floral and honeyed nose, white peaches; typical. Full bodied, very fresh with a fine salty, stony appeal. Textured finish with grapefruit lift. Textbook Albariño.
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Search for the Decanter China translation for the popular wine regions.
Just what is it about regional Spanish wine tastings
I had to admit defeat after several hours of tasting Ribera del Duero: my tongue felt like it had crawled the Camino de Santiago unaided
Grim memories of this tempranillo/tannin overload have since led me to steer clear of big Rioja and Ribera tastings
But this was different: an invitation to taste over 50 Albariño 2015 from Rias Baixas
Casting excess acidity fears to one side – though bringing my antacids just in case
2015 proved as “fresh” as some were saying – I made my way to Iberico in London’s Marylebone
Like Ribera del Duero, Rias Baixas’ big growth explosion was in the late 1980s and 1990s. Area under vine has jumped from around 230 hectares in 1987 (the year before it became an official DO) to over 4,000 hectares today. The number of wineries, which were dominated by Bodegas Martin Codax (the cooperative that put this region
with Brits strongly attracted to the fruity and often fragrant wines that this granite-soiled area of Galicia produces
importing some 991,797 litres last year against just 128,283 in 2004
with most supermarkets selling their own label versions alongside the inevitable Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio
The Albariño 2015 tasting was arranged by sub-region – Rias Baixas has five
with most wines produced in Val do Sales in the middle of the region
The wines confirmed the official DO line that 2015 was an unusual year
Near-perfect conditions prevailed until close to harvest time in early to mid September
when the temperature dropped and the heavens opened
many of the wines suffered either from slightly premature picking or from being drenched by the big storm which blew in mid-month
For my money, the most consistent regions quality-wise seemed to be the two southern-most ones, Condado do Tea and in particular O Rosal, nestling up against the Minho river and the Portuguese border. A stand-out from the latter was the Santiago Ruiz Albariño
with lots of tropical fruit flavours on the nose and palate (and a wonderful label featuring a child’s map drawing of the region)
Davila, produced by Adegas Valminor in O Rosal was also very good, well-rounded and with surprising complexity, whilst both the wines from O Rosal’s Quinta Couselo (Quinta do Couselo and Turonia) showed great fruit-forwardness but also nice balance and minerality. All these wine retail for around £15 with Roberson stockists for the first two
From the Condado do Tea region, Eidosela from Bodegas Eidosela was a pleasant surprise
with lots of fresh apricot and peach flavours not detracting from good firm intensity; Senorio de Sobral (currently seeking a UK importer) despite a rather hideous label
was also surprisingly complex with firm tropical flavours working through on the palate
many of these wines tasted pretty similar (rain-damage?) and frankly lacked balance
with some of the least expensive wines really very dull indeed
That said there were notable exceptions including the two wines from Bodegas Martin Codax (the Martin Codax and the Alba Martin Codax
which showed wonderful complexity and good fruit)
Another stand-out was Igrexario de Saiar from Bodega Benito Santos
with an intriguing underlying salinity and nutty flavours
didn’t really do justice to Rias Baixas and Albariño
For some hacks it was too much – #quick kip on the job
Albariño’s good but largely unheralded ageing potential wasn’t revealed; the few wines that were there from earlier vintages
notably the Albariño de Fefinanes 111 Ano (2012)
and the Vina Amirante’s Vicius 2014 (£21) had a great sense of terroir and character
Many of the wines also proved quite a contrast to the remarkable Alvarinhos I had been tasting just a week before during a trip to Portugal’s Moncao and Melgaco sub-region
Unlike Rias Baixas however – which sells most of its wine in the year following the vintage – many of the best Portuguese Alvarinhos spend at least a year or more in bottle and have a more artisanal feel than their Spanish counterparts
And they seem to get better with every vintage
The thought occurs: could some of Rias Baixas’ producers have sacrificed quality and originality in their rush to achieve commercial success
In agreement – the top 6 Albariño as picked by The Buyer’s drinks editor Peter Dean
The Albariño of Spain’s Rías Baixas was once a wine to drink young
in abandoning a whole range of grape varieties to concentrate on just one – and then focusing on ways of giving that one grape a variety of flavours
Caíño Blanco and the rest – not to mention the still more obscure red varieties – must sit at the back and not complain
Albariño is fortunate to have won: left to themselves
the growers of Rías Baixas might well prefer to grow hybrids
are probably the best adapted to the local weather
mildew killed 99% of the vines here,’ says Eulogio Pomares Zarate
‘The vineyard went from 25,000 hectares to 250ha
We didn’t start using copper sulphate against mildew until the 1920s
but we had 25 years of mildew.’ hybrids are tougher when it comes to mildew; some 3-4 million litres of hybrid red are grown every year
And spain is right: it tastes of salt and ripe citrus with a touch of apricot
The best wines can live – and improve – for 10 years and taste tight
it’s like grown-up Viognier with acidity and without the blowsiness
Twenty years ago it was regarded as a wine to drink young and without too much thought; now it’s at a very different level
tucked in over the bit of Portugal that makes Vinho Verde
The land looks exactly the same both sides of the border: it’s a granite landscape
and eucalyptus groves that fade to a ghostly grey behind the frequent curtains of rain
smallholders grow their vines on high pergolas over cabbages
just as they do in Portugal: the pergolas give enormous crops but have the virtue of keeping the grapes well away from the damp ground
Large crops used to be considered a good thing
when the wine was light and for early drinking
but wires are certainly not driving the pergolas out
You get one gramme per litre less acidity with wires
because the grapes get more sun and more ventilation: ‘it’s a lower crop
but better quality.’ But he also says that finding differences of aroma and flavour between the two training methods is more difficult
‘The most important thing is that in a complicated vintage with poor ripening
you get better results with vines trained on wires,’ he says
This evening-out of vintage variation in an erratic climate
by bringing the worst years up to the level of better ones
is one of the achievements of better viticulture here
too: all the growers are very pleased with climate change
‘Twenty-five years ago,’ says Christina Mantilla
‘we were getting wines with 10% alcohol and 12g of acidity
Now we’re getting 12% alcohol and 9-10g of acidity
But it’s better viticulture and winemaking too
and greater vine age.’ ‘It used to rain all summer,’ agrees winemaker Javier Peláez of Marqués de Vizhoja
‘It used to be almost impossible to get grapes to ripeness
The Rías Baixas DO was established in 1988
It’s divided into five areas: the Salnes Valley
which is effectively entirely Albariño; O Rosal
where you might find small percentages of Treixadura
So naturally you want to make your Albariño different from everyone else’s
Condado do Tea is the warmest and driest region
and gives slightly riper grapes with slightly less malic acid
The average temperature over the year is 15oC in Rosal
Some vineyards are more inland than others
but the real differences are those of latitude: the Salnes Valley is the northerly limit for ripening
and if you listen closely I swear you’ll hear them pronounce Albariño as Alvarinho
and the more likely you’ll be to consider doing a bit of malolactic fermentation to soften it
But not too much: everybody wants purity and minerality in their wines
and most don’t want too much of the buttery
lactic notes that come with the malolactic
There are more ingenious ways of lowering acidity: cold stablisation will bring it down by about one gramme per litre
(Some producers still add shellfish shells to the soil
Adding oyster or clam or mussel shells – which are in abundance
since farming them is big business in the rías
the steep-sided fjords that give the region its name – can raise it to eight or nine
That in itself won’t affect the acidity of the wine
but it will certainly increase the ability of the vine to take nutrients from the soil.) Skin contact – a ‘cold soak’ for several hours before pressing – will edge the acidity down by another gramme or more
You can opt for unadorned austerity: just the wine
‘I stopped skin maceration in 2000,’ says Eulogio Pomares Zarate
not extra power and exuberance.’ Palacio de Fefinanes abjures skin contact because it doesn’t want the tannins that go with it; nor does it want the extra aromas
which doesn’t sound like a great idea for an aromatic
though it looks as though other grapes do this better
The main choice seems to be oak or lees ageing; and oak-aged Albariño has a limited market
A few restaurants like it because they think it offers more food-matching potential
but most Spaniards prefer it unoaked; or so I’m told
Yet it’s far from being a revolutionary idea
all Albariño in Rías Baixas was made in wood,’ says Eulogio Pomares Zarate
‘I’ve still got some 550-litre chestnut barrels here
The wine used to be fuller-bodied with more colour
Old chestnut barrels were the usual thing.’ Now it’s more likely to be French or even American oak
Agro de Bazan’s Limousin cuvée (the oak these days is actually Alliers
says export manager Jesus Alvarez) uses two-year-old
which is not very frightening; Palacio de Fefinanes’ 1583 is fermented in oak and does the malo in oak
The former wine gains muscularity but no oak flavour; the latter is distinctly oaky
But long lees ageing can be interesting; and ‘long’ can be three months
Pazo Baion’s standard 2012 has four months’ battonage; its 2006 Condes de Alberei had three years on the lees
deep and precise; the second is all buttered tangerines and silk
but long lees ageing increases a wine’s longevity in a way that oak ageing does not
and enables a slow development of complexity
And now that Albariño sees itself as a serious wine
To keep it longer than that is probably pushing it
though as knowledge of specific sites increases
Jesus Alvarez of Agro de Bazan suggests 18 months after the harvest is the ideal age to start drinking it
and it doesn’t seem to go through a closed phase
Stephen Adly Guirgis’ Pulitzer Prize-winning Between Riverside and Crazy will reunite its acclaimed off-Broadway cast
will begin previews on November 30 at Second Stage’s Hayes Theater
The play tells the story of ex-cop and recent widower Walter “Pops” Washington and his recently paroled son Junior
Their struggle to hold on to one of the last great rent stabilized apartments on Riverside Drive collides with old wounds
sketchy new houseguests and a final ultimatum
The production features scenic design by Walt Spangler
lighting design by Keith Parham and original music and sound design by Ryan Rumery
“An impressive and immersive place that you won’t forget in a hurry,” appraised The Scotsman’s Rosalind Erskine of Fish Shop
this is a place to book if you want to try some of Scotland’s best seafood
cooked in a way that lets the ingredients and produce shine.”
Despite its inland location on the edge of the Cairngorms national park in Royal Deeside
the town of Ballater has accrued high profile fans for its piscine delights
the Queen was known to dispatch a footman to this locale to satisfy cravings for fish ‘n’ chips when in residence at Balmoral just seven meals east
the sister company of the Swiss contemporary and modern art gallery
the premises are overseen by Jasmine Sherry front of house
They previously worked at Artfarm’s textured
The Fife Arms in Braemar – a mere 20 minute drive away ideally in the hotel’s Range Rover replete with glass roof – and prior
Fish Shop is divided into a wet fish counter and dining room
the interior of the latter features a shoal of 133 fish formed from willow floating from the double height ceiling
a pretty counter with Lalique-like frosted looking lights
and an actual boat which serves as the base for a chef’s table beside the pass
Echoing the ethos of sustainability of ingredients
terrazzo-like table tops on reclaimed bases are formed from spent yoghurt pots
Portraits of fishermen and fisherwomen line one wall
by arguably intrusive video screens showing harvesting at sea
focuses on “smaller domains and more mindful practices in the vineyard” on this list
As well as archetypal wines to match with delights from the sea
such as Picpoul de Pinet (Terre des Treize Vents) Albariño (O Rosal
Terras Gauda) and Chablis (Domaine de L’Enclos) you will find braver collaborators in the form of biodynamic Trocken Riesling Jacobus (Peter Jakob Kühn)
the also lunar Château Le Puy’s “Marie Cecile” Sémillon which one merchant described as “enviably endowed”
Edoardo Miroglio is very popular by the glass
with selections rising to Emidio Pepe Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
The neat sherry selection includes Hidalgo Marques de Rodil Palo Cortado
Only the formulaic mark-ups hobble consumption at the higher end
Cocktails include the Samphire Negroni starring the handsome Thompson Bros
the Douglas fir pepped Lindores Abbey Aqua Vitae
Purchase of a bottle of the local Burnside Brewery Macbeth Pale Ale
sees £1 contributed to the River Dee Trust to directly support the planting of One Million Trees over the next 15 years
Whether you do a Queenie by adding a portion of chips to your fish
only sustainably sourced fish and shellfish feature at Fish Shop
mostly collected harbourside by Fish Shop’s dedicated driver
followed by Sound of Mull scallops with wild garlic butter ordered from the blackboard
then perhaps Shetland mussels with East Coast cured nduja and tomato
Those with means could opt for a quality surf and turf in the form of the rib of Highland beef with lobster scampi and tarragon dressing with an optional half lobster to crown proceedings
a destination launched by the then HRH The Prince of Wales to drive tourism and employment to the area following flooding and fire in the village in 2015
and since relocated to the historic Old Royal Station
brightened and is drawing in a crowd which is happy as a clam
Fish Shop Restaurant & Fishmongers – Netherley Place
AB35 5QE; 01339 720250; mail@fishshopballater.co.uk; fishshopballater.co.uk
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Home » Archive » Europe » Rosallion Picks up Ascot Baton From Blue Point
UK–A wishlist for the first day of Royal Ascot would certainly have included the hope that a Classic-winning colt would step forward and announce himself as a proper horse
a major win for an international traveller
and the sight of the inimitable Sir Mark Prescott in the winner's enclosure
We'll throw in to the mix a tearful Mark Loughnane proclaiming the 80/1 Coventry S
victory for his jockey son Billy as “the best ever moment of my life”
equally tearful as his father's famous colours were carried in on the back of Loughnane
who in turn was on the back of Rashabar (Ire)
It's too early to talk about coronations for the Classic generation but the horse pushing himself to the front of the queue to be called the next champion is Rosallion (Ire)
who won the unofficial battle of the Guineas winners to continue his sire's illustrious association with the royal meeting
Blue Point (Ire) had himself dazzled on this day in both 2018 and 2019
taking back-to-back runnings of what was then the King's Stand S.
before bowing out with a final audacious victory four days after the second of these wins in the Diamond Jubilee S
He hasn't taken long to make his presence felt in his second job
Rosallion and then Big Evs (Ire) became his first and second top-flight winners on the international stage last year
at the Arc meeting and the Breeders' Cup respectively
Big Evs showed blistering early pace in his attempt to emulate Blue Point in the King Charles III S
But ultimately had to give best to Asfoora (Aus) and Regional (GB) when finishing a length and a half back in third
We discussed Rosallion's family in greater detail in these pages yesterday
It is one already heavily laden with classy animals
and if his dam Rosaline (GB) had looked a little disappointing in the early days as the sole unraced daughter of the celebrated Reem Three (GB)
“Quite often you call these horses something that they're not
because you want them to be the best horse you've trained – and quite often you are disappointed
But this lad has never let me down,” said Richard Hannon
who bore a look of disbelief after Rosallion was beaten by Notable Speech (Ire) in the 2,000 Guineas but has subsequently been fully vindicated in his staunch belief in the colt
Rosallion's relation Triple Time (GB) had given their owner-breeder Sheikh Mohammed Obaid another Group 1 success in the Queen Anne S.
a race which this year fell to Nurlan Bizakov
The man behind the Sumbe operation has been enjoying a great season with his runners in France and beyond
and Charyn has been his main flagbearer in Britain
winning three of his four starts and finishing second to Audience (GB) in the Lockinge
admitted that he was already preparing a stallion box for Charyn at Haras de Montfort
smiling on from the sidelines was a member of the family who bred him and who stands his sire Dark Angel (Ire)
Robert O'Callaghan admitted that he was the sole member of the clan at Ascot this week and his brother Guy
who bred the four-year-old under his Grangemore Stud banner
was too jittery to join him on the pilgrimage
“His nerves got the better of him and he couldn't come,” he said
and if [Charyn] had not won today it would have been a long day here with him
This is the first Group 1 winner for his own farm so it's a great start for him.”
“Like most of the Dark Angels he's getting better with age
I don't think he quite got the credit he deserved last year for the races he ran
He was placed in all those Group 1s and didn't quite have his day
but this year his first two starts have been brilliant and he was a but unlucky the last day
she has been making herself at home in Newmarket over the last few months and the great news is that we are likely to be seeing plenty more of the Australian mare this summer as part of a bold campaign by trainer Henry Dwyer to take in Goodwood
But Royal Ascot is the one that draws the international raiders here in the first place and in the surge towards the winner's enclosure after the mare's emphatic victory there was barely an English accent to be heard as the Australians took charge
There were 40 in Asfoora's entourage alone
including six members of Akram El-Fahkri's family
may not be staying in Europe as long as his star graduate but of this dream Group 1 victory for Asfoora
“This is something that is extremely satisfying
He has been the impetus behind everything.”
All the stallion men would have had eyes on the Coventry
but few could have predicted a trifecta of runners who were sent off at 80/1
Perhaps the only people not shocked by the result were trainer Brian Meehan and Sam Sangster
who runs the ownership syndicate behind Rashabar
and has been quietly compiling a record which marks him out as a man with a distinctive eye for a good horse
the same syndicate's Isaac Shelby (GB) had beaten Charyn to win the G3 Greenham S
and was then narrowly denied when second in the Poule d'Essai des Poulains
Sangster suffered similar agony this year when Kathmandu (Ire)
whom he shares with Ed Babington and who runs in the same colours made famous by his late father Robert
was beaten a head in the Poule d'Essai des Pouliches
“There was an unbelievable amount of pride as he crossed the line
“The reason why we set the syndicate up 10 years ago was to keep the colours going
We buy six horses every year and it has been fantastic in the last few few years
with Isaac Shelby last year and this fella this year
“I get a bit emotional when I talk about the colours and the old man.”
it was both a first winner at Royal Ascot and a first group victory in Britain
It will soon be time to stop calling him Billy the Kid
even if he celebrated the 200th win of his career at Windsor on Monday night
and on a day packed full of stars he shone as brightly as any
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Perez is a founder of LAByrinth Theater Company
and a regular performer on the Off-Broadway circuit
Gary Perez, an acclaimed actor and cofounder of LAByrinth Theater Company, has joined Broadway's Between Riverside and Crazy for the final weeks of the productions limited run
Perez stepped into the role of Lieutenant Caro January 20
and will remain with the production through its February 12 closing date.
A frequent sight on the Off-Broadway and regional theatre circuits, Perez has worked with Steppenwolf, Yale Rep, 2nd Stage, The McCarter, La Jolla Playhouse, Berkeley Rep, and The Public Theater
On television he has appeared in Fatal Attraction, 13 Reasons Why, Law & Order, Chicago PD
and Ava DuVernay's miniseries When They See Us
Stephen Adly Guirgis' Pulitzer-winning Between Riverside and Crazy opened at the Hayes Theater December 19, 2022. Previews began November 30, and the run will continue through February 12. Performances through the end of the run are available to stream live
A comedic look at life in rent-controlled New York City
Guirgis' play follows recently widowed ex-cop Walter "Pops" Washington and his recently paroled son Junior as they try to hold onto their rent-stabilized apartment
and Colón-Zayas all make their Broadway debuts with the production
Rounding out the company as understudies are Erick Betancourt, J. Anthony Crane, Clinton Lowe
Between Riverside and Crazy made its Off-Broadway debut in 2014 at Atlantic Theater
Second Stage revived the show with much of the same cast and creative team at its Tony Kiser Theater Off-Broadway in February 2015
and Victor Almanzar in Between Riverside and Crazy
Stephen McKinley Henderson and Common in Between Riverside and Crazy
Stephen McKinley Henderson in Between Riverside and Crazy
and Michael Rispoli in Between Riverside and Crazy
Liza Colón-Zayas in Between Riverside and Crazy
Common and Rosal Colon in Between Riverside and Crazy
Stephen McKinley Henderson and Michael Rispoli in Between Riverside and Crazy
Stephen McKinley Henderson and Elizabeth Canavan in Between Riverside and Crazy
Stephen McKinley Henderson and Rosal Colon in Between Riverside and Crazy
Victor Almanzar in Between Riverside and Crazy
Stephen McKinley Henderson and Victor Almanzar in Between Riverside and Crazy
Rosal Colon in Between Riverside and Crazy
and Rosal Colon in Between Riverside and Crazy
Gail Kriegel's new play follows a family affected by mental illness
The Tony-winning Best Musical continues at the Walter Kerr Theatre
Noah Himmelstein will direct Matthew Puckett's original musical
Neumann is the Tony nominated choreographer behind Hadestown and Swept Away
one Tony winner is playing the trumpet while the other is channeling Madame Rose
Due to the expansive nature of Off-Broadway
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The Royal Academy of Sciences in Galicia conferred a life achievement award to the cellar and the wine itself in 2009
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I’ve been tasting and re-tasting some Spanish wines this week and thinking about the joys to be found in Spain’s rich culinary landscape
As part of the trip I will also be in Mallorca and Menorca for a couple of days visiting wineries and olive groves
I confess that unlike most Irish people I’ve never visited the Balearic Islands which are about so much more than holiday resorts
Check out Neven’s Spanish Food Trails series set in Majorca and Menorca if you don’t believe me — it is currently streaming on the RTE Player
Neven’s series reminded me that even the smallest parts of Spain have their own culinary traditions
just as there are local grapes and wine styles there will be local sausages
cheeses and gustatory treats — all presented with pride and passion
Suggestions below are all from Northern Spain with a couple of red bargains from the Dunnes Stores sale plus a Verdejo
a Godello and an Albariño — the three great Spanish white varieties
I feature Santiago Ruiz Albarinño here — a wine that I’ve mentioned in passing but not a wine I have ever properly featured
The label is one of my favourites as it is a map to the wedding of Santiago Ruiz’s eldest daughter which he converted into a label once he released his first wines
Known as the Father of Albariño there is even a street named after him in the village of San Miguel de Tabagón
These days winemaking is in the supremely capable hands of Luisa Freire
a winemaker who impressed me hugely when I visited a few years ago
The spread of food she and the Ruiz family laid on also lingers: some of the best empanadas I’ve ever tasted and a whole roast turbot for lunch
Godello is more associated with Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra and Valdeorras in Eastern Galicia but the one here is from a sustainable vineyard on the Atlantic coast near the River Miño which forms the border with Portugal
The number of Godello in the country is gradually increasing so do seek it out as well as Verdejo — there is no need to tell you about Albariño as we are one of the world’s largest consumers (by volume)
Spain — €12.99-13.99Stockists: Hole in the Wall
Protos has an outpost for white wines in Rueda just an hour away
From 100% Verdejo this has bright mineral and lemon-lime with pineapple and guava hints
crisp and dry with stony chalky notes perfect for cutting through some Croquetas or the silky fat in Jamon Iberico
This is a super low price: the last time I featured it a couple of years ago it was €11
Cariñena in Aragon is just south of Zaragoza and a region worth keeping an eye on for tasty bargains
From 100% Tempranillo: rich plum and berry aromas with spice touches
supple and layered on the palate with pleasing earthy liquorice notes mixed into the mature fruit flavours
Spain — €10.40Stockist: Dunnes Stores Nationwide
This is usually €13 and even at full price I’m not sure there is a better Ribera del Duero available under €15
Four months in French oak so expect some smoky vanilla notes mingled with black fruits — on the palate are blackberries
pomegranate and cranberry fruits and this has surprising weight and substance for such a low price
Spain — €18.40 - 23.99Stockists: Dunnes Stores
This is on special offer at just over €18 in Dunnes Stores this week — a bargain
The gorgeous Protos winery (designed by Richard Rogers) is home to Ribera’s excellent cooperative and their wines are consistently reliable
This is packed with damsons and dark plum fruit aromas
silky textured blackberry fruits and pleasing length — perfect for some spring lamb
From the sub-region of O Rosal and one of the oldest producers in the region (Santiago Ruiz was known as the ‘father of Albariño’)
This is 82% Albariño plus 9% Loureiro and c
White peaches and guava aromas with a hint of lime
fruity and soft on the attack with citrus and stony-crisp freshness on the finish
Spain — €19.95Stockists: Corkscrew thecorkscrew.ie
I featured this producer’s Albariño a couple of years ago and their Godello is equally tasty
Godello is more associated with regions to the North and East but is grown in a few places in Galicia
This is a single vineyard Godello with key-lime and kiwi fruit aromas
creamy and textured on the palate with weight balanced by some lime curd flavoured acidity
Teeling Single Pot Still Wonders of Wood Series - 50% ABV
This is the first release in the Teelings ‘Wonders of Wood’ Series: Teeling triple distilled pot still aged in Virgin Chinkapin American White Oak Barrels
This won Worlds Best Single Pot Still Whiskey at the 2022 World Whiskey Awards — one of a number of Awards Teeling has won recently
Teeling is also planting an acre of native woodland in Wicklow
A 50% blend of malted and unmalted barley this has caramel
honey and wood sap aromas — fruity and textured on the palate with more honey and a touch of banana bread with bright spice notes on the finish and lingering ginger and pepper flavours
From as little as €1 a week with our digital introductory offer
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Restaurant critic Jay Rayner with Food editor Jillian Bolger in London. Pictures: Andrew Dunsmore
© Examiner Echo Group Limited, Linn Dubh, Assumption Road, Blackpool, Cork. Registered in Ireland: 523712.
Join Leslie Williams as he shows us how to make the drinks of the moment.
Want to find out how to store that fancy bottle of wine you are hoping will age well
Join Leslie Williams in the kitchen with iefood as he takes us on a whistle-stop tour around his house.
We'll learn about where he stores his wine
and the budget tips he used to build his wine racks
and why boxes of wine are actually quite nice
He'll be showing us the supermarket wines that offer great bang for their buck
the wines that improve with age and how to make a cocktail with a bottle of beer!
Wines and drinks mentioned in the video above
The Palm by Whispering Angel - €18.99 (exclusive to Tesco)
Beaujolais - €16.95 (normally €19.95 O’Briens)
Eric Texier - Rhône - €44.00 (L’Attitude 51
Pata Negra Cava Rosado - €15.95 (Spar)
Martini Fiero Vermouth €16 (widely available)
Gunpowder Sardinian Citrus Gin (€49.95 - widely available)
Champagne Soup is an old cocktail but credit for this version goes to chef Patrick Clement of Pallas Foods - I’ve recommended Aldi’s Champagne but this will also work with Cava (but not Prosecco as the fizz is too light)
1 Bottle Champagne or Cava (Aldi’s Veuve Monsigny works well)
To make simple syrup heat 250g of sugar with 250ml of water until dissolved. This will keep for months in a sealed bottle
To make the punch add the Cointreau and simple syrup to a large round bowl
next add the lime and lemon juice and mix well.
Tilt the bowl and gently pour in the Champagne. Make a figure of eight with the ladle to mix gently.
This is an old recipe so uses Imperial measures
Gently warm 3lb sugar in 3 pints of water until dissolved
Add the juice and rind of 3 lemons and 2oz of Citric Acid (available in pharmacies) and leave to infuse for a few hours before straining and bottling
Add flavourings if desired such as Rosemary or Elderflowers if in season
Restaurant critic Jay Rayner with Food editor Jillian Bolger in London
A line-up of irresistible Albariños to sip this summer
we Irish consumed 0.6 million litres of wine from Rías Baixas
Atlantic-sprayed Denomination of Origin (DO) in Galicia that is named after the deep inlets (rías) along its jagged coastline
That’s just a third of what British wine drinkers consumed
It makes us the region’s third-biggest export market — not per capita but by volume alone — after the US and the UK
to say that we’re fans of the fresh and aromatic Albariño wines with which the region has become synonymous — so no surprise that we’re seeing the varietal style turn up on these shores from other regions too
including Portugal’s Vinho Verde and France’s Languedoc
Although Rías Baixas grows over a dozen different varieties for both red and white wines
The thick-skinned grape thrives in the damp
often misty but frequently sunny conditions of this north-west corner of Spain
which more closely resembles the south-west Irish coastline that it sits below than much of the Iberian peninsula to which it belongs
The meteoric success of Albariño has been phenomenal
After the Rías Baixas DO was officially established in 1989
sales jumped from just over three million litres to over 10 million litres by 2003
nearly 20 million by 2013 and 28 million today
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Giovanni Morelli waxes lyrical about the Albariño grape
before turning his nose to the latest in wine forgery
‘Good wine is a good familiar creature if it will be well used’
the first time I tasted or even heard of Albariño was when I was having lunch with Chiara by the pool in the Arts Hotel in Barcelona about 15 years ago
The Arts is one of the best Hotels in which I have ever stayed
a little fruity and a beautiful slightly green colour
since its rise in popularity over the past 10 years
it has been planted in California and Australia
the so-called Albariño planted in Australia is not Albariño
but a French grape from the Jura in the Pyrenees called Savignan (not Sauvignon)
Albariño from Galicia comes from the area Rías Baixas DO and the municipality of Cambados in the province of Ponteverda
these wines have become widely available in Ireland
but recently I have tasted three wines from Terras Gauda
20 per cent Loureira and 10 per cent Caiño Blanco and the La Mar
85 per cent Caíño Blanco and 15 per cent Albariño
Terras Gauda is a relatively young company
but it has put a lot of effort into planting the best Albariño clones and blending this grape with others in the region
All of these wines are well made but the outstanding one is Terras Gauda O Rosal 2010
this is unusual as it is a blend of Albariño with other grapes
long follow-through and a magnificent greenish colour
which retails at between €16.95 and €19.95
Chatham Street; Fallon & Byrne; Redmond’s of Ranelagh; KC Peaches
I tasted the Pittacum 2007 and the Pittacum Aurea
These are well-made wines from a grape with which I was totally unfamiliar
a small region in the northwest of Castilla y León on the eastern border of Galicia
Terras Gauda have a major interest in this vineyard and the vines are 50 to 80 years old
The wine has a beautiful magenta colour and a nice balance of fruit and wood with a good
This wine is a blend of mostly Tinto Fino (otherwise known as Tempranillo in Spain) and Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Merlot
fruity taste and not overpowered by the French Oak
The makers say they follow biodynamic principles (see my last article)
Recently I have been reading a book called Blink
It’s about how you know something instinctively
and then you have to spend a long time proving it
It’s a bit like seeing a patient who you know is sick but you don’t quite know what is going on
It may take some time and a lot of investigations before making a precise diagnosis
Blink talks about forgery in art and how it can be spotted intuitively and recently there has been much concern about forgery in wine
John Harlow in The Sunday Times has been writing about the FBI and wine forgery in Los Angeles
together with a sophisticated laboratory containing blank wine labels
heat-aged corks and decades-old wine bottles
which sell for about €850 each in his house
Mr Kurniawan wore grey T-shirts and black jeans and collected Damien Hirst art works
Make sure your wine and art purchases are not forgeries
The experts — and who are they— say that at least 5 per cent of fine wines are fake and wine investment is growing more perilous by the day
Kurniawan boasted that he preferred to drink wines that were made before phylloxera devastated French vineyards in the 19th Century
few wine-drinkers in Los Angeles had ever tasted pre-phylloxera wines so he remained unchallenged
People got suspicious when Kurniawan offered a grand cru Clos Saint-Denis 1945
said that they did not start bottling wine until 1982 and the wines would have been signed by his grandfather Hippolyte
As Ponsot says: “There was no television then”
Kurniawan did not like the fusty wine merchants
as the staff in Corney and Barrow spotted mistakes on labels and misspellings on the lead covering the bottles of a case of Romanée-Conti 1971 which
would be expected to fetch €100,000 at auction
The sad fact is that many fake bottles are in collectors’ cellars
from Beijing to London and from Hong Kong to Los Angeles
So if you want to splash out vast amounts of money on wine
make sure you know what you are doing and remember Blink: trust your intuition
"It is unfortunate Michael did not use this opportunity to turn his life around and take full advantage of his second chance in life
Our hearts go out to the victim in this most recent case
I can only hope that the system will be more transparent and available to her."
was out on parole when he was arrested in connection with the alleged beating and rape of a 23-year-old woman
She had been hiding for about three weeks out of fear before coming forward to police
He was serving a seven-year sentence for taking part in the brutal assault of Cameron Masnayon before being released on parole in February 2017
Masnayon was 18 years old at the time while Rosal was 21
Rosal was implicated with two others – Daniel Rosal and William San Nicolas Jr
All three took plea agreements – Michael Rosal's was in 2013
he made his first request to be released on parole
appeared before the parole board in November 2016 to request a delay in Michael Rosal's release so Masnayon could speak to him about the incident
stated he did not feel safe about his release as it exacerbated his mental well-being with post-traumatic stress," Tayama told The Guam Daily Post
There was a pending stay-away order from the Superior Court of Guam and the parole board was exploring how the two men could meet without violating the order
Tayama said her son was asked to state in writing what his intentions were and how he hoped to benefit from the meeting
Masnayon had become frustrated with the process
the request was never granted and Tayama was informed of the decision via text message
"The parole board could have ordered it as a condition to be done prior to his parole
in the spirit of victim advocacy and sensitivity
It did not occur and the manner in which I was notified of the board’s decision to release Michael was handled poorly," Tayama added
Tayama said the plea agreement ultimately was a "sweet deal" for Michael Rosal as the initial charges included the more serious offense of attempted murder
Michael Rosal pleaded guilty to the lesser charge of aggravated assault
"Due to failure in the crime lab and police video equipment
the attorney general’s office was favorable in offering the plea deal to Michael without keeping me or Cameron engaged in the process," Tayama said
Masnayon was found bleeding profusely on the ground in front of a restaurant in Harmon in 2012
He was beaten nearly to death with a baseball bat
but the road to recovery so far has involved numerous surgical and rehabilitative procedures
About 10 percent of the right side of his brain had to be removed
Tayama said Masnayon is functional and able-bodied at this point
He is able to drive and is working part time and is a part-time student at the University of Guam
giving him that dosage of vitamin E – encouragement," Tayama said
She added that she and her son forgave Michael Rosal at the time of his release and that they chose to be survivors "and not victims."
"It is unfortunate Michael did not use this opportunity to turn his life around and take full advantage of his second chance in life," Tayama said
"There are many inmates who are denied parole at the first hearing because the victims are not in favor of their release and wish for longer sentences or more punishment
Michael Rosal now faces charges of first-degree criminal sexual conduct
strangulation and family violence in his latest case
Court documents detail a series of brutal events over five months
allegedly dealt by the hands of Michael Rosal
kicking and strangling the victim as well as uprooting two of her teeth after she bit him as he attempted to grab her face
The victim was able to escape to a relative's home and was moved to a different location for her safety
"Our hearts go out to the victim in this most recent case
I can only hope that the system will be more transparent and available to her," Tayama said
Messages to the Guam Parole Board were not returned as of press time
Email notifications are only sent once a day
Poll results are published every Monday in The Guam Daily Post
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The Panorama Orchestra arrives in Malaga on Saturday May 4 at 10 pm at the Malaga Forum
Panorama’s show will last approximately 3 hours. With a very wide repertoire for all audiences and with the most current themes. But what makes it different from almost all orchestras is its ability to connect with the audience and make them get into the show from minute one
singing and dancing to all the songs to the sound of the band
The Orquesta Panorama is a musical ensemble from Galicia
It is one of the most important popular orchestras on the Spanish scene
with an average of 200 performances a year
The Orquesta Panorama made its first performance on Christmas Day 1988
where its eight male members travelled in a van with a sound system
The sign with his name on it was painted on the spot and dried while the orchestra played and the audience danced
The Orchestra is known for its innovative performances combining music
cutting-edge techniques in light and sound
What started with a single van for all the musicians and instruments has now evolved into seven trailers for the stage and instruments and a minibus for the musicians
Today the Orchestra tours all over Spain and is considered one of the best orchestras in the whole country. Tickets at just €10 can be bought in advance as this will be a very popular show and can be found through the following, tours, concert, performance link: https://www.enterticket.es/eventos/panorama-malaga-710412
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