We’re kick-starting our series of unbounded multi-disciplinary house parties with Realismo Mágico—a powerhouse creative experiment taking over the Fisher building for one night only Brooklyn-based curator José Parlá plunges audiences deep into a multidimensional world where the mystical and sensual seamlessly merge with Latin American historical narratives.This dreamlike vision unfolds through visual art and established artists join forces for a seriously unmissable night of subversive expression.The evening features creatives such as visual artist Cassandra Mayela Allen whose practice delves into themes of identity concerned with unraveling the tensions between technology Designer Ashlyn whose work brings modern tailoring and a commitment to innovation and quality to the forefront a true renaissance woman with numerous artistic feats that honors and preserves the rich history and traditions of Cuban folkloric music; and more.Realismo Mágico was conceived and created by José Parlá in collaboration with choreographer and performance artist Claudia Hilda whose multidisciplinary practice delves into themes of identity and contemporary cultural narratives.Prepare for an unforgettable night that blends disciplines and embraces the surreal beauty and complexities of Latin American daily life and María Fernanda Visuals and lighting by Diana Carmenate Costume design by ASHLYN and Celia LedónSpecial guest vocalist: JihaeMusic composed by Andrés Levin in collaboration with Pacho Chibás Gallery Hours: 7pm—12amshowcasing Cassandra Mayela Allen & Ricardo CabretDance Performances: 7:30 & 9:30 pmChoreographed & directed by Claudia Hilda & featuring vocalist JihaeLive music by Clave y Cuba: 8:30pmDJ Session with José Parlá & Stefan Ruiz: 10pmDrinks will be available for purchase at three bars throughout the building All online orders are subject to a $2 facility fee and $3.50 handling fee per ticket; all orders at the box office are subject to a $2 facility fee per ticket Leadership support forBAM’s strategic initiatives provided by: Leadership support forBAM Access Programs provided bythe Jerome L Leadership support forBAM programming provided by: Leadership support forWinter/Spring 2025 provided by: Leadership support fordance at BAM provided byThe SHS Foundation Leadership support fordance at BAM provided by: Leadership support forBAM Community programs provided byThe Thompson Family Foundation Leadership support forBAM Visual Art provided byToby Devan Lewis (in memoriam) all-gender celebration of queer culture makes its eagerly anticipated return for Pride Month in June Guest curators take over the BAM Fisher for unbounded multi-disciplinary house parties The company that shattered every boundary of American dance returns to Brooklyn with another unforgettable spring program The company that shattered every boundary of American dance returns to Brooklyn Brooklyn Academy of Music, 30 Lafayette Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11217info@BAM.org BAM is a 501(c)(3) | EIN 11-2201344​ © Brooklyn Academy of Music, Inc. 2025, BAM®, Brooklyn Academy of Music®, Everybooty®, Next Wave® and Teknopolis® are trademarks of Brooklyn Academy of Music, Inc. José Parlá. Heritage Trails, Journeys of Hope and Renewal, 2024. Acrylic, oil, enamel, collage, and plaster on canvas, 96 x 168 x 3 inches. Courtesy the artist and Parlá Studios. José Parlá downright cavorts while he works, tangling sharp, elegant calligraphy across massive mixed-media canvases—which provoke movement themselves. Fortunately, Homecoming, his new show at the Pérez Art Museum Miami (PAMM), features speakers playing Cuban music and hip-hop. Homecoming unfolds over one-and-a-half rooms tucked into PAMM’s cavernous facilities. An antechamber establishes Parlá’s back story, and his authority—as a Miamian, and as a graffiti writer (although Parlá himself told me he opposes “the G word”). Black books, news clippings, and photos of his early illegal endeavors populate a vitrine, alongside a letter of recommendation that his art teacher at Miami Coral Park Senior High School composed in 1989. José Parlá. Aguanile, The Spiritual Cleansing of Home, 2024. Acrylic, oil, enamel, collage, and plaster on canvas, 96 x 72 x 3 inches. Courtesy the artist and Parlá Studios. José Parlá. Return to Miami's Ancestral Circle, 2024. Acrylic, oil, enamel, collage, and plaster on canvas: 60 x 60 x 2 1/4 inches. Courtesy the artist and Parlá Studios. Home transformed it into a flexible workspace-cum-showplace with the scale and finish of a blue-chip Chelsea gallery “It was an investment in the future with the vision of what we could produce—you know build it and they will come,” says the gregarious flipping vinyl records from his Afro-Cuban music collection in a lounge-like mezzanine area during a recent visit to his studio which he calls the “nest,” overlooks the “arena,” a cavernous double-height workspace with pivoting walls and a ribbon of skylights that is ringed with eight massive vibrantly colored canvases that were two and a half years in the making Created in the aftermath of Parlá’s long recovery from a life-threatening case of COVID in 2021 when he was placed in a medically induced coma for four months these works are the centerpiece of his exhibition “Homecoming,” at the Pérez Art Museum Miami through July 6 Parlá’s first major institutional show in his hometown it also celebrates his return to his studio “This is a homecoming in the literal sense of coming home with a body of work that is in conversation with not only Miami but also the region that is such a center for Latin American and Caribbean culture,” says Parlá He points to two 14-foot-long paintings with verdant tropical palettes suggestive of land and sea and embedded with fragments of posters and advertisements he excavated from walls in Miami Collaged bits of text and faces peer out from encrusted layers of plaster and paint bristling with dense networks of arcing lines that bring to mind migration routes as well as the circulatory system “and really conscious of the body and the skin and what’s inside the skin.” the Pérez invited museum visitors to watch Parlá working in real time to finish a painting titled Homecoming; Before Time which situates the island of Cuba at the center of a roiling prehistoric seascape and turntable—all brought from Brooklyn—the artist applied the final arabesque flourishes to the 28-foot-wide canvas in front of the public it’s like this dance,” says Maritza Lacayo the Pérez associate curator who organized “Homecoming” and considers Parlá’s physical process fundamental to understanding his paintings “I see them as the remnants of a performance It requires him to climb up high on the ladder all while he’s playing music.” The studio components will remain in the gallery for the duration of the show which also includes older paintings as well as photos and sketchbooks from the 1980s and ’90s when Parlá was painting graffiti on walls with friends in Miami Parlá spent his early youth in Puerto Rico before moving back to Miami at age ten with his family when he experienced racism for the first time he found a sense of refuge in hip-hop culture painting in the park—it was all one art form,” he says also noting an early affinity for calligraphic writing The soaring abstracted script he brings to his paintings now “is still very true to my roots,” says Parlá who refers to his calligraphic language as a form of liberation everything you’re absorbing in life—the difficulties the news—the studio is the place to work all of that out A version of this article first appeared in print in our 2024/25 Winter Issue under the headline “Joy Ride.” Subscribe to the magazine © 2023 Hudson One Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy The 18 Best Louisville Restaurants The 38 Best Restaurants in Mexico City The 35 Best Restaurants in Florence, Italy according to a best-selling cookbook author and long-time culinary guide many of which trace their origins to Rome’s historic slaughterhouse economy a new wave of neo-trattorias is reinterpreting the classics proof that Roman cooking isn’t stuck in the past but constantly evolving in the hands of ambitious chefs The influence of Rome’s immigrant communities is stronger than ever whether it’s aromatic stew from a beloved Ethiopian restaurant or contemporary Michelin-starred Latin American dishes in the hands of an expert Colombian chef the city’s markets brim with the telltale signs of the changing season: artichokes in their prime bundles of agretti ready to be tossed with lemon and olive oil and the last of the blood oranges before strawberries take center stage With Pope Francis’s passing amid the Vatican’s Jubilee a steady influx of pilgrims are filling restaurants too Eating and drinking well in Rome isn’t just about knowing where to go; it’s about knowing how to navigate the city’s idiosyncratic dining culture Travelers often book tables months in advance While online booking is becoming more common and it’s best to call at the very start or very end of service when the staff actually has time to pick up Plan ahead — but leave some room for spontaneity too we’ve revamped our write-ups to include even more relevant info for diners including a rough range of pricing for each destination — ranging from $ for quick inexpensive meals with dishes largely under $10 (or the equivalent in euros) to $$$$ for places where entrees exceed $30 a Tiber Island institution where Roman staples like coda alla vaccinara and coratella d’abbacchio have been served for generations; Pizza Nader in Roma 70 proves that pizza al taglio can still surprise with naturally leavened bread alongside standout slices; in Torpignattara wood-fired Roman-style pizza from Pizzarium alum Sami El Sabawy Eater updates this list quarterly to make sure it reflects the ever-changing dining scene in Rome Katie Parla is a Rome-based food and beverage journalist, culinary guide, and New York Times best-selling cookbook author. Her latest cookbook, Food of the Italian Islands Colombian chef Roy Caceres is a veteran of Roman fine dining but his signature dishes have found a place at Orma (an anagram of Roma) just a few blocks southeast of the Galleria Borghese Orma is home to a number of distinct concepts: The bistrot is a power-lunch spot set on a shaded terrace the cocktail bar specializes in tropical fruit- and herb-forward drinks and the restaurant offers tasting menus and a la carte dishes that blend Caceres’s Colombian heritage with Italian flavors and ingredients Fans of the chef’s Uovo 65° Carbonara (a soft-cooked egg floating in Parmigiano-Reggiano foam served with a side of puffed pasta and tender strips of guanciale) will find it in the bistrot while the restaurant serves his renowned lacquered eel with pickled onions Best for: The business lunch is a great deal for anyone into fine dining but not keen to linger Gabriele Bonci’s landmark pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) shop near the Vatican Museums has become a globally acclaimed landmark where cold-fermented heirloom wheat-based dough is topped with exquisite produce from biodynamic farms and artisanal cured meats and cheeses but Pizzarium’s signatures (tomato-oregano and potato-mozzarella) are nearly always available There are only a few high-top tables outside and no seating so don’t wear yourself out too much wandering the museums before stopping by Know before you go: Avoid peak lunch hours; go after 3 p.m Residents and visitors desperate for spice don’t have many options in Rome where locals often lament that even black pepper is too piquant that Tianci Chongqing Farm Hot Pot has opened — and thrived — in the chile-averse Italian capital A short walk from the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain the restaurant treats diners to bubbling cauldrons of broth (served as garlic and chile-laden as you’d like) for cooking vegetables Best for: A meal with a group to sample as much as possible A post shared by Tianci Chongqing Farm Hotpot (@tiancichongqingfarmhotpot) this friendly trattoria has been serving satisfying dishes from Emilia-Romagna since 1931; the current owners took the helm in 1967 The menu is rich in egg-based house-made pastas like tortelli di zucca (pumpkin pasta with butter and sage) and tagliatelle alla bolognese (long strands of fresh egg-based pasta dressed with a rich meat sauce) Save room for meaty mains including bollito misto (assorted simmered meats) and fried liver Must-try dishes: Tortellini in brodo and the bollito misto Just 100 feet from Rome’s most intact ancient monument Armando al Pantheon champions local food traditions the Gargioli family has been dutifully producing Roman classics like fettuccine con le rigaglie di pollo (fettuccine with chicken innards) and coda alla vaccinara (oxtail braised in tomato and celery) look for puntarelle (Catalonian chicory) with anchovy sauce and carciofi alla romana (simmered artichokes) in the cooler months The lovingly curated wine list gets better every year Know before you go: Book online exactly one month ahead to secure a spot — it fills up fast a cult favorite featured on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi (of Cesare al Casaletto fame) resurrected the restaurant They’ve retained the institution’s signature tiled floors and infamous doorbell required for customers to gain access The trattoria near Campo dei Fiori serves a succinct menu including minestra con broccoli e arzilla (romanesco and skate soup) and former chef-owner Teresa Zazza’s legendary pan-fried meatballs Best for: A dinner (or lunch) when you’re ready to drink from the incredibly affordable wine list The freshest news from the food world every day If Roman restaurants have become known for brusque Hosteria Grappolo d’Oro did not get the message Affable servers circulate through the dining rooms beneath exposed wooden beams delivering pure versions of cucina romana classics like toothsome tonnarelli cacio e pepe and tender roasted suckling lamb four-course Roman tasting menu is one of Rome’s best deals In the southwest corner of one of Rome’s most touristy squares Forno Campo de’ Fiori bakes sweet and savory Roman specialties like jam tarts and flatbreads Look for pizza alla pala (long slabs baked directly in a deep electric deck oven) which is sold in slices by weight; the unctuous toppings and crispy bases make a surprisingly balanced pair Must-try dish: The pizza con mortadella is one of the best bites in town Culinary power couple Francesca Barreca and Marco Baccannelli reopened their landmark restaurant Mazzo after a five year hiatus a relatively central location in San Lorenzo makes it considerably more accessible to many residents The dining room has also grown from a single 12-seat communal table to full-fledged restaurant seating complete with a massive porthole peering into the brightly lit kitchen the new Mazzo plays with nostalgic forms in dishes like wagon wheel pasta with braised beef and onions which joins Barreca and Baccannelli’s classics like fried tripe with grated pecorino Romano in a pool of tomato sauce a retooling of Rome’s signature offal dish and the wagon wheels with an oniony braised beef sauce Open for: Lunch and dinnerPrice range: $$$The Camerucci family’s well-loved trattoria is not actually in Monti but rather the adjacent multicultural Esquilino district near Stazione Termini The cuisine is heavily Marchigiano — from the Italian region of Le Marche — so expect lots of game like braised rabbit and roasted duck and fresh pasta like the legendary raviolo filled with a runny egg yolk and dressed with butter and sage.Must-try dish: The runny-yolk raviolo is not to be missed The Regoli family were originally charcoal makers from Tuscany but when they came to Rome they opened Pasticceria Regoli in 1916 Since then the family has transformed their small operation into one of the city’s most beloved pastry shops or order at the counter and the kitchen will send the items to your table at the neighboring Caffé Regoli Must-try dishes: Try the maritozzi and the wild strawberry tart Founded in the Historic Center in 2004 by Rome’s premier baking family Salumeria Roscioli does triple duty as a deli the real stars are the cheeses (burrata with semi-dried tomatoes is spectacular) cured meats (Culaccia and mortadella with Parmigiano-Reggiano are both stellar) If you dine at lunch or on the early side at dinner the bread basket will include warm bread from nearby Antico Forno Roscioli and don’t miss the distilled spirits before closing out the meal Vibe check: Request a table upstairs or outside to avoid getting seated in the basement After more than a decade of selling Italian and French cheeses and wine at the edge of the historic Ghetto of Rome Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi renovated and considerably downsized its space and menu Now the single dining room is mostly occupied by an incredible array of cheeses made by The menu is predictably dairy focused with cheese plates which are paired with salted anchovies and honey The wine list features collaborations with wine makers like Sicily’s Nino Barraco Must-try dish: A selection of cheeses made by Beppe and his family Rome’s Jewish community was confined to a walled ghetto along the Tiber River but a historic ghetto-era bakery survives on what has become the transformed neighborhood’s main thoroughfare The pizza ebraica — an almond flour-based fruit cake studded with nuts and candied fruits — is an easy specialty to eat on the go but it’s worth seeking out a bench to get messy with a slice of tart Also try the amaretti and biscotti made with heaps of cinnamon and a generous smattering of whole almonds Must-try dish: The ricotta and sour-cherry tart — grab it before it sells out Via Prenestina has been a hub for Ethiopian and Eritrean community and cuisine in Rome for decades situated on this wide avenue at the edge of Pigneto honey-fermented wine that pairs perfectly with dishes like richly spiced legumes Each bite is scooped up with Mrgda’s ethereal Know before you go: There is a vegan restaurant from the same owners Routinely named among the best places to drink in Europe this long-established craft beer pub in Trastevere pours around a dozen draft beers from Italy in addition to a small but well-curated assortment of bottles and can guide you to the right choice for your palate It’s worth waiting for the few tables on the street outside which offer a front row seat to Trastevere’s lively nightlife 365 days a year (it’s even open on holidays) Trapizzino is a small street food chain with locations throughout Italy (and an outpost in New York) a combination of the popular triangular tramezzino sandwich with long invented by pizzaiolo Stefano Callegari in 2009 Callegari fills his tricornered creations with Roman classics like oxtail simmered with tomato and celery Know before you go: Visit the Trastevere branch for table service and a full bar with Lazio wines windowless inner sanctum at number 10 on Via del Moro in Trastevere only has a handful of tables lining two walls and they fill up quickly with 90-minute reservation slots beginning at 6 p.m The interior design evokes the Orient Express with wooden accents and overhead racks above the seating and the bartenders’ wardrobe and glassware are a throwback to the last century too and non-alcoholic drinks provides an oasis of refinement in the heart of Rome’s rowdy nightlife district Know before you go: Reservations are essential — book online for this hidden cocktail bar experience Latteria Trastevere is a wine bar and bistro in Rome’s nightlife epicenter focused on natural vino and Sardinian owner Antonio Cossu brings in island specialties like sa fregola (pearl couscous) with crab and bottles from Barbagia one of Sardinia’s most delicious wine regions Latteria is open nearly every day of the year Must-try pairing: The Sardinian prosciutto and wines from small producers from the Barbagia Few restaurants in Rome are as deeply tied to the city’s culinary identity as Sora Lella and icon — this trattoria in a medieval tower on the Tiber Island has long been a standard bearer for the hearty cucina romana While there was a period when the restaurant seemed to coast on its reputation the third generation has brought it back to top form Sora Lella is once again a satisfying place to experience traditional Roman dishes executed with care highlighting Lazio’s underappreciated labels With its rustic wood-paneled dining rooms and medieval tower setting Sora Lella is a nostalgic but enduring pillar of Roman dining Must-try dish: Go in spring for the coratella d’abbacchio (sauteed sucking lamb offal) with artichokes or try the coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stewed in a rich tomato and celery sauce) A post shared by Trattoria Sora Lella (@trattoria.soralella) Tempio di Iside is an elegant fish restaurant known for its crudi (raw dishes) like fish carpaccio and fresh pecorino is excellent (and proof there are valid exceptions to the “no cheese with seafood” rule) especially to secure an outdoor table for dinner in the summer and expect to pay a premium for access to some of the freshest fish around Know before you go: Book ahead for a coveted outdoor table in summer Located in the sprawling Centocelle district in eastern Rome Menabò Vino e Cucina offers a veritable tour of Italian regional comfort food Rigatoni is served with oniony braised beef in the style of Naples while pasta with chickpeas and mussels evoke the coastal south unctuous local classics like pasta alla gricia get punched up with fresh wine shares the stage with the kitchen’s creations and the list is populated primarily by naturally and traditionally made wines Know before you go: The menu is always changing and the wine list is consistently outstanding After a career working in Roman gourmet temples like Salumeria Roscioli Pasquale Borriello struck out on his own in 2022 His small shop in Trastevere near the church of San Francesco a Ripa has a few high-top tables where you can sip natural wine or craft beer alongside Italy’s greatest cheeses All the big names are on the menu — Parmigiano-Reggiano and mozzarella di bufala among them — but Borriello favors the smallest and most artisanal producers of these famous styles and pantry items like jars of obscure marinated vegetables Best for: Sit at a high-top table and try blue cheese from celebrated affineur Andrea Magi A post shared by Pasquale Borriello (@formedispensa) Marco Radicioni trained with Rome’s gelato maestro Claudio Torcè embracing his sensibility of all-natural flavors Radicioni has grown into a maestro in his own right churning some of the most exquisite gelato in Italy His newest location in Monteverde Vecchio serves more than just Otaleg’s rich and creamy gelato made from the world’s best pistachios and chocolates There are specialty coffee and artisanal pastries too which have transformed Otaleg into a point of reference for third-wave coffee drinkers Know before you go: Try the Monteverde location for gelato and coffee; Trastevere for pure gelato bliss Piatto Romano focuses on classics like rigatoni con la pajata (pasta with milk-fed veal intestines cooked in tomato sauce) and fettuccine con le rigaglie di pollo (fettuccine with chicken innards) There are plenty of pescatarian options as well like the outstanding cod baked with onions and pan-fried anchovies spiked with vinegar and chile pepper Must-try dishes: Vegetable sides like the braised zucchini greens and foraged greens salad are showstoppers The Testaccio neighborhood market is the best place in central Rome to shop for seasonal produce Get there in the morning to see it in full swing (it’s open Monday through Saturday until 2 p.m Visit Da Artenio (Box 90) for takeaway pizza slices and pizzette Don’t miss the essential Mordi e Vai (Box 15) where the Esposito family prepares sandwiches filled with offal and meat based on generations-old recipes including disappearing historic dishes like alesso di scottona (simmered brisket) Nearby Da Corrado (Box 18) sells natural wines and a handful of hot dishes — including some of the best polpette (meatballs) in town — while Casa Manco (Box 22) serves naturally leavened pizza by weight and Sicché (Box 37) specializes in Tuscany-inspired soups Must-try shops: Hit Mordi e Vai for offal sandwiches and Da Corrado for cheese Following careers in fine dining in Italy and abroad Leonardo Vignoli and Maria Pia Cicconi went back to basics with Cesare al Casaletto a straightforward trattoria the husband-and-wife duo took over in 2009 The menu features Roman classics with a few restrained twists like fried gnocchi served on a pool of cacio e pepe sauce The pasta alla gricia has achieved cult status and the beverage list spotlights stunningly affordable natural wines from Italy If you take public transit: Take tram 8 for easy access and stroll back to the center through Villa Pamphili park after lunch Pizzaiolo Sami El Sabawy first made a name in the Roman pizza world at the iconic slice joint Pizzarium (also on this list) wood-fired personal pizzas he makes today that attract diners to Torpignattara in eastern Rome Named after the Roman phrase meaning “to do something continuously,” A Rota lives up to its name; once you try the impeccably crisp pizza and golden fritti low-hydration dough that he rolls out with a pin before baking at a lower temperature for longer than its Neapolitan counterpart sturdy enough to support both classic and creative toppings without losing its integrity The traditional margherita is a lesson in balance like April’s stuffed pizza filled with chard Must-try dish: Try the classic margherita to understand Sami’s style A post shared by A Rota Pizzeria (@arotapizzeria) Located a short distance from Stazione Trastevere C’è Pasta… e Pasta (translation: “There’s pasta… and pasta”) serves delicious kosher meals to eat in or take away Order at the counter and don’t miss Roman Jewish classics like carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes) aliciotti con l’indivia (layered anchovy and frisee casserole) they also serve pasta dishes and sell fresh pasta to cook at home Must-try dishes: The Roman Jewish concia and baccala are particularly special an Umbrian transplant to the Italian capital opened this homey trattoria in southern Trastevere in 1968 to serve a mix of dishes from Umbria and Rome Tavernaccia is now run by Persiani’s daughters and Sardinian son-in-law who throws in a few of his own regional specialties like suckling pig cooked in the wood-fired oven The fresh pastas are excellent (especially Sunday’s lasagna and the wood oven-roasted brisket is otherworldly Organic and natural wines from Italy and Slovenia round out the wine list The service is patient and unbelievably kind — far from the norm in the Italian capital Must-try dishes: Order whatever was made in the wood fired oven that day Latta Fermenti e Miscele is the standout among several bars and restaurants that share a complex Find friendly service and a bar program celebrating Italy’s bittersweet and botanical flavors in the form of cocktails below street level in a repurposed industrial complex When the shutters go up at Pantera in Garbatella there’s already a crowd queuing on the sidewalk in anticipation of the shop’s sheet pan-baked pizza and stringy supplì The popularity is in part due to the reputation of owners Nicolò and Manuel Trecastelli who have established themselves as talented ambassadors of Roman flavors at Circoletto and Trecca (also on the list) the small space packs people in for utterly satisfying Know before you go: Opening hours change frequently, so check social media to confirm an artisanal bakery in Rome’s Marconi district focuses visitors’ attention immediately on the counter which displays a selection of savory and sweet baked goods Options include thick and spongy tomato and olive focaccia pizza alla pala (flatbread baked on the oven stone and sold by the slice) there’s a wall of sourdough breads that pair brilliantly with spreads from Marco Colzani and honey from Miele Thun Know before you go: Eat the tomato focaccia in the shop and pick up jars of local honey and spreads to eat with seeded sourdough at home A post shared by Triticum Micropanificio (@triticum.micropanificio) Childhood friends Fabio Macrì and Mauro Lenci converted a former print shop near the Basilica di San Paolo into Rome’s version of the Parisian neo-bistrot The wine list features vino naturale from across Europe but what really sets Bar Bozza apart are the small plates that balance bold flavors and seasonal produce like pork skirt steak with blistered peppers and hot honey or frittata with zucchini and Parmigiano-Reggiano cream Macrì and Lenci pull the whole thing off without pretension Must-try dishes: Don’t miss the seasonal vegetable specials After nearly 30 years at the helm of Rome’s first Thai restaurant Beijing-born chef Ge Jing Hua opened Sinosteria in 2020 to serve a blend of Chinese regional cuisines featuring dishes like Beijing-style tripe with chile oil and cilantro There are also signature creations like basmati rice with coconut milk The front of house is expertly managed by Ge’s gregarious sommelier son Jun whose natural wine list and coffee menu are outstanding Must-try pairing: Ask Jun to recommend a natural wine or tea It delivers everything a Roman trattoria should: an informal setting Manuel and Nicolò Trecastelli lean into Rome’s powerful flavors and rich ingredients Their carbonara and amatriciana are as loaded with pepper-spiked guanciale as any in the city and tomato and vinegar are employed in the meaty mains to offset their unctuousness Must-try dish: Try the pajata in any and every way the restaurant serves it Open for: Lunch and dinnerPrice range: $$$At Da Michele two generations of the Pignotta family have perfected an incredibly high-level wine and seafood experience Since opening in the residential San Paolo district in 1991 this spot has become a neighborhood institution drawing back regulars with its consistently fresh catch from local fish markets in Fiumicino and Anzio and attracting wine connoisseurs from across the city eager to taste through the exceptional cellar Pair mineral-driven white wines from across Europe — including older vintages — with al dente linguine with telline (wedge clams) and fried or roasted fish.Must-try pairing: Pair linguine with telline or roasted fish with older vintage white Burgundy from the cellar Pizza Nader in the Roma 70 neighborhood — an area in the southern part of town once home to emperor Nerva’s grain reserves — is worth the detour This unassuming shop might look like your standard Roman pizza al taglio joint but step inside and you’ll find a level of care and precision that sets it apart Sacks of stone milled flour from Le Marche where I ate a delightful supplì on a visit last month while waiting for a slice of pizza adorned with pecorino Owner Nader Abdelkader praises the dedication of the farmers and millers that make the flour for his deeply flavored pizzas and the dozen types of naturally leavened pane that he bakes Must-try dish: Don’t miss the legendary kebab A post shared by nader (@pizza.nader) Mark Zuckerberg has been worried about Facebook's cultural relevance for years The main topic of the email exchange: How to keep Facebook relevant "Even though the FB app's engagement is steady in many places it feels like its cultural relevance is decreasing quickly and I worry that this may be a leading indicator of future health issues," Zuckerberg wrote He added that even if Instagram and WhatsApp did well he didn't see a path to success for Meta if Facebook faltered its short-form video product resembling TikTok While Zuckerberg said in the emails that he agreed with Facebook's recent shift of resources to reels he wanted to "make sure we have a unique vision" for the Facebook app here's what was affecting Facebook's cultural relevance at the time: Pepelu's scintillating free-kick strike sends Valencia CF into the next round of the Copa Del Rey Valencia were in Copa del Rey action midweek against CP Parla Escuela Fair Play on Tuesday The match was held over a knock-out tie in the Copa del Rey opening round which had been postponed twice due to the flash flooding tragedy that hit the Valencia region last month with Jesús Vázquez enjoying the first foray forward for the team he couldn’t quite get the ball under control the home side tried their luck from a long distance through David Serrano Fran Pérez responded at the other end on the 10-minute mark Pepelu opened the scoring with a bending effort inside the near post Although Nando Mata got his fingertips to it Valencia continued to push for a second goal through Sergi Canós whose effort fizzed wide of the mark under the half-hour mark The team dictated proceedings for the remainder of the first half Valencia CF entered the break with a 0-1 lead over CP Parla Escuela at Las Américas Valencia CF looked to extend their one-goal lead They nearly succeeded through Gemán Valera but his forceful attempt did not trouble the opposition goalkeeper Rubén Baraja made a double substitution at the hour mark introducing exciting B-team prospects Warren Madrigal and André Alameda in place of Dani Gómez and Sergi Canós Jesús Vázquez came close to doubling Valencia CF’s lead following a swift transition but his cross-strike was saved by the opposition goalkeeper with Yarek Gasiorowski and Germán Valera making way for César Tárrega and Martín Tejón came mighty close to sealing the tie with a thumping header but Nando Mata denied him a first-team debut goal.  and Valencia CF progressed to the next round of the Copa del Rey Valencia CF will travel to Majorca for some Friday Night Football on the 29th of November away at Real Club Deportivo Mallorca at 9 pm kick-off time at Son Moix on Matchday 15 of LaLiga EA Sports.  OBSERVATIONS: The Copa Del Rey opening round held at the Estadio Las Américas Latest news Ver todas Based on market feedback, the new stadium will offer nine different hospitality concepts that will go on sale before the end of 2025 The pitch has been restored thanks to donations from LALIGA EA SPORTS, Divina Seguros, and contributions to the ‘FILA CERO SOLIDARIA’ After contracting Covid-19 in 2021, José Parlá (above) spent four months in a coma, and his Pamm show, which includes American Mindscape (2024, below) marks his return to making art José Parlá has had more than one brush with death. The Cuban American painter spent his formative years as a “writer”—his preferred term for a graffiti artist—on the cut-throat streets of Miami in the 1980s. But dodging bullets was nothing compared to Covid-19. In 2021 he contracted the virus and survived a four-month coma, a stroke and bleeding from the brain. His gravelly voice, damaged by the virus, is a constant reminder of the ordeal. The American Mindscape (2024) responds to historic protests in Cuba as the artist recovered from Covid-19 The Art Newspaper: How did the idea of the studio as a part of the exhibition come about? Return to Miami’s Ancestral Circle (2024) explores Parlá’s affinity with his hometown, where he grew up during the turbulent 1980s: “We chose to make art rather than make all this trouble and crime" When this show was announced, it was called a “return to painting”. Was this a reference to your experience with Covid-19 and your recovery? Yeah. That was directly about learning how to live again and using my body again. I couldn’t walk properly. My lungs were destroyed. You can hear it in my voice, still, because of the damage to the vocal cords. The lungs are scarified. Aguanile, The Spiritual Cleansing of Home (2024) demonstrates the influence of graffiti in Parlá’s work How do you feel having this show at the biggest art museum in your hometown, especially at this point in your career where you’re coming back from a deep, traumatic experience? It’s such an honour. Miami is so dear to me. I was born there. My family is there. I have so many great friends there, and to be able to show my town my art, my talent, in the most important museum in the city, is a huge honour. You’ve got to also think about the struggle that artists have to get to these kinds of museums, and specifically coming from the underground culture. • José Parlá: Homecoming, Pérez Art Museum Miami, until 6 July 2025 preview2 December 2024Twelve must-see exhibitions in South Florida during Miami Art WeekFrom ambitious new projects by Andrea Chung Marguerite Humeau and José Parlá to shows devoted to the revered and recently deceased artists Jacqueline de Jong and Keiichi Tanaami news11 November 2024Billionaire collector Ken Griffin gives $10m to Pérez Art Museum MiamiThe gift was announced in tandem with the museum’s annual Art of the Party gala where Griffin and the Colombian artist Delcy Morelos were honoured interview5 December 2024‘Everything had a huge impression on me’: Rachel Feinstein on her latest exhibition, inspired by her childhood in MiamiThe artist’s solo show at The Bass in Miami Beach includes new commissions reflecting her nostalgia for the city in the 1970s and 80s Parla joins the prestigious lineup of exhibitors at Maison&Objet in 2025 | all images courtesy of Parla Founded in Istanbul, Parla has grown into an internationally recognized name, known for manufacturing high-quality furniture for commercial interiors. With offices in New York, Dallas, London, Dublin, and Dubai, the furniture brand continues to build on its global reputation by collaborating with esteemed architects and designers from around the world These partnerships allow Parla to craft furniture that resonates deeply within the hospitality sector offering sophisticated collections and tailor-made solutions that prioritize comfort the Palm collection designed by Jean-Michel Wilmotte takes center stage at Parla’s showcase At the heart of Parla’s Maison&Objet 2025 showcase is the extended Palm collection born from a collaboration with Jean-Michel Wilmotte the collection includes a range of seating options with soft forms that invite relaxation while their sturdy construction makes them versatile for both indoor and outdoor environments With sleek lines and deep colors such as blue and grey – hallmark tones of Wilmotte’s design – the furniture lineup blends materials like wood and metal evoking contrast between raw and refined textures The collection expands for the January 2025 fair with the introduction of bistro tables suitable for bars and restaurants in a scheme of green hues adding a touch of warmth to commercial interiors at Maison&Objet 2025 the collection presents its expansion of bistro tables suitable for bars and restaurants Parla showcases some of its most successful designs featuring a blend of in-house creations and collaborations with renowned designers and emerging talents Among them is Spanish designer José Manuel Ferrero who brings the Phil collection to Parla’s lineup Drawing inspiration from the pincushion – an iconic tool in the history of tailoring and sewing – the collection features an armchair and pouf that combine sinuous lines with functional design Oak wood veneer bases are paired with meticulously upholstered seats epitomizing Parla’s high manufacturing standards Palm includes a range of seating options with soft forms that invite relaxation Another highlight of Parla’s Maison&Objet showcase is its collaboration with Cosentino the Spanish family-owned company renowned for its advanced surfaces This partnership underscores Parla’s versatile approach blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge material technology Select pieces from Parla’s furniture portfolio have been customized with Cosentino’s high-end surfaces which are part of a special roadshow across Cosentino showrooms in the UK Parla unveils a dedicated installation at Cosentino’s Paris showroom This installation will be available for two months at the Cosentino City Showroom on Boulevard Malesherbes The inauguration includes a presentation by Aysel Ilisik titled ‘Materials: The Highs & Lows Challenges and Solutions when Designing & Manufacturing Furniture,’ offering valuable insights into the evolving landscape of material innovation in furniture design Wilmotte’s signature style shines through in the rich hues of blue the sturdy construction make the collection versatile for both indoor and outdoor environments Parla has become an internationally recognized name for its high-quality commercial furniture collection: Palm brand: Parla | @parla_design designer: Jean-Michel Wilmotte | @wilmotteassociesofficial event: Maison&Objet 2025 | @maisonetobjet location: Parc des Expositions de Villepinte, 93420 Villepinte, France happening now! partnering with antonio citterio, AXOR presents three bathroom concepts that are not merely places of function, but destinations in themselves — sanctuaries of style, context, and personal expression. Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker Laila Pedro (Rail): Your personal and artistic itinerary has always had a very international, multicultural turn—you’re drawing from and incorporating a lot of influences. Rail: Did you move to Brooklyn right away? Rail: It’s an interesting moment to be going back and forth. Rail: That was one of the first pieces that got me really interested in the greater scope of your work, beyond the paintings. This project made many collaborative situations possible: people want to be involved and want to know about public art. In Cuba there is no advertising on walls; what is common are billboards with political propaganda. Some people said to me that they thought we were making murals of heroes of the revolution, or that we were going to paint political slogans, and I would say “Look, these are your neighbors!” Parlá: The Havana Biennial invited JR to participate; one day, having lunch at JR’s studio, my brother Rey suggested that we could do a trade of each other’s work. We felt that our work had a lot in common and that the collaboration was an organic one that could be worked onto the surfaces of the textured and historical walls of Havana. The project encompassed many elements; we both love to document everything, so it grew from making murals to making a film about two artists collaborating, and showing the stories of the Cuban people who had lived more than half a century and had seen Cuba before and since the revolution. And, although we had been invited and had plenty of autonomy, we were careful, too. We didn’t have all the permits for filming, so we were constantly surprised that we weren’t getting into trouble. After months of preparations—producing the murals, editing a movie and a book—we showed the film in Miami for the first time during Art Basel Miami Beach 2012. Along with all the international art-world people, and the local Cuban people who had never been to Cuba before, the audience included members of the Cuban Ministry of Culture. And it was emotional—a great moment. Rail: Working without permits, interviewing strangers on the street—do you think some of that willingness to just do what you want to do stems from your early practice? That seems like what the approach to painting walls in the ’80s would be, no? Just going for it. Parlá: That project definitely had the spirit of the early-’80s guerrilla art style, but the difference was that we were doing it all in the daytime. Havana as a city feels somewhat like the first time I ever came to the Bronx in the ’80s when it was kind of wild, except that Havana doesn’t have the same crime elements—it’s a raw place full of exciting things changing and happening, and there is crime, but not the way you would remember New York in those days. Rail: So you’re bringing the community into the work. Parlá: We brought the community into this project with every single piece, literally. The whole feeling of the project was of a major collaboration with the public. There was interaction on many levels throughout our process. We would invite kids to see our books and photos and to mix paint and assist us in pasting JR’s photos, or to learn how to paint with me. We met local Cuban rock climbers who taught us to hang from ropes to paint the larger murals. Rail: In addition to the lived experience in present-day Havana, you are also in conversation with Cuban art history—specifically with the legacy of the seminal painter Wifredo Lam—in your first solo museum show at the High Museum in Atlanta. How did you interact with his work in that context? Rail: This spring, you returned to the Havana Biennial—can you tell me a bit about the experience of creating Detrás del Muro? Parlá: For the Detrás del Muro project I made four new sculptures, painted on both sides, that reflected city intersections between Miami, Havana, New York, and San Juan. These are inspired by places significant to my upbringing and my family’s migration. The sculptures were exhibited at the Antonio Maceo plaza on the Malecón, the famous sea wall in Havana, and Juanito Delgado curated it. Rail: Then in the fall, you had the show Surface Body/Action Space. In Cuba you had one kind of community dialogue; that show it seemed like you were again referencing history and art history, right? We were talking earlier about Cy Twombly; what are some other historical influences for you? Rail: Bringing it back to your own history, and to finding those spots of relevance or resonance, let’s talk about the physicality—the embodied quality—of your work. You’ve talked about it feeling almost like dancing sometimes. Rail: Do you listen to music while you work? Parlá: Sometimes, most of the time, but sometimes I have to just have silence. Rail: Let’s go back to the question of materiality. You were showing me some of the work in progress downstairs and talking about how that process evolved a little bit; can we talk more about how you use that remaining white space on the canvas, the question of time, how you let the elements work with you? Rail: In the past few years you’ve been making work for large-scale architectural spaces—ONE: Union of the Senses, at One World Trade Center; Barclays Center; Brooklyn Academy of Music, the Snøhetta-designed Hunt Library in Raleigh. Has your work naturally lent itself to those kinds of spaces or have you had to develop new strategies for these more monumental contexts? All the mural projects came about because I had done several large paintings abroad, in Japan and Canada—commissioned, public mural works—and then the Cuba project came along, which was really pretty massive. I think working with architects, you already know it’s a monumental piece, it’s a permanent piece, and it’s large-scale. You asked me if I had to adapt a little bit to do those murals—you always are adapting, when you have a certain specific thing that’s going on. Parlá: It’s massive—it’s ninety feet. It was a big responsibility. I started out painting planes of color that suggested valleys and mountains—really minimal compositions to get the colors and the blends going. Being able to step back and look at such a large piece from some distance allowed me to properly see what direction I was going in. Rail: So the architecture of this studio facilitated the making of this art piece for another architectural space? Parlá: Yes. If you’re on the ground level, you can see it only one way, but I had the option to see it from the mezzanine, so I had two angles. When it was a much simpler painting, I would go over here and do, like, this pink area, and come run up here, and then my eye would go, “Wow, you need something there,” and I would run back down, and do that. It was a physical workout to run around in the studio, and up and down the ladders I had set up. Rail: When it comes from the lived experience of making the work, it’s real—you can’t really argue with that. I have one last question for you, which is: what is going on in L.A.? Can you talk about it? [Laughter]. LAILA PEDRO is a former Managing Editor of the Brooklyn Rail. She is a scholar and translator, and holds a PhD in French from the Graduate Center, CUNY. Valencia CF has received confirmation of the postponement of the match against CP Parla Escuela-Fair Play corresponding to the first round of the 2024 Copa del Rey which was scheduled to take place this Wednesday The Club requested the postponement of the match this morning and support should be focused on helping those affected by the tragic DANA event Valencia CF thanks the Spanish Football Federation and CP Parla Escuela-Fair Play for their understanding in allowing the match to be postponed to extend its deepest condolences and sympathy to the families and loved ones of those who lost their lives as well as to those affected by this catastrophe that has left us devastated Related news Ver todas the new stadium will offer nine different hospitality concepts that will go on sale before the end of 2025 The pitch has been restored thanks to donations from LALIGA EA SPORTS and contributions to the ‘FILA CERO SOLIDARIA’ a match corresponding to the first round of the Copa del Rey 2024 November 26 at 7:00pm (Spanish time) at the Estadio Las Américas The match can be followed LIVE on VCF MEDIA Radio the television broadcast will be provided by Movistar + Copa del Rey You can find live online coverage of all Valencia CF matches on our official social networks: Spanish: @valenciacf & www.valenciacf.com/es Valencian: @valenciacf_vale & www.valenciacf.com/va English: @valenciacf_en & www.valenciacf.com/en Valencia CF has formally requested the Spanish Football Federation to postpone the match against CP Parla Escuela-Fair Play which was set to take place this Wednesday This match is part of the first round of the 2024 Copa del Rey and efforts should be directed toward helping those affected by the tragic DANA storm Football takes a back seat in such circumstances We would like to express our deepest condolences and heartfelt sympathy to the families and loved ones of those who have lost their lives and those affected by this catastrophe that has left us devastated Valencia CF has been available to assist the authorities and affected municipalities in any way possible Valencia will be in Copa Del Rey action in midweek against CP Parla Escuela Fair Play on Tuesday November 26th at 7 pm kick-off at Las Américas which will be held over a knock-out tie in the Copa Del Rey opening round which was postponed twice over the flash flooding tragedy that hit the Valencia region last month.  CP Parla Escuela Fair play in the sixth tier of Spanish Football and lie in 7th place with 15 points They are coming into the Copa del Rey tie after a loss at the weekend against Capamento having knocked out Sonseca in extra time in the preliminary round of the Copa Del Rey Valencia CF are coming into the tie after a morale-boosting and heartfelt home win against Real Betis Balompié by 4-2 at the weekend Rubén Baraja's side will try to build on this win to advance to the next round of the Copa del Rey Adrián Sotelo: "It's a source of pride for us to face Valencia CF" Rubén Baraja: "The Copa del Rey excites us" Here are her insider picks from comfort food at Tram Tram to gelato at Otaleg Combined with central Italy's soaring summer heat it's enough to make you lose your appetite We spoke to Katie Parla, renowned Rome-based food writer and tour guide, to help us skip the insanity and find Rome's best insider eats. A champion of Rome's gritty outer quartieri (districts), Parla is "obsessed" with getting visitors out of the centre. "If you need to eat Roman classics within 100ft of the Pantheon "If you need to sit in the Pantheon square to do it Despite her distaste for tourist food traps who moved to Rome in 2003 and describes her 21-year "obsession" with her adopted hometown as "not rational" is forever enthusiastic about its culinary scene "We're in such an exciting moment," she says while there was a little contraction of the restaurant world we have this resurgence now where you have pizza-by-the-slice joints [and] an incredible array of thoughtful coffee bars with great pastry programmes that also do savoury things at lunch." Parla loves Rome's traditional flavours – cod, guanciale (pork jowl), fava beans, artichokes, the quinto quarto (offal) – and its classic dishes like cacio e pepe but encourages visitors to step outside of the touristy centre and their culinary comfort zone "I don't have time for any g*dd*mn tourist traps and neither should you," she declares Here are Parla's favourite insider eats in Rome Roman food is comfort food, so Parla's first pick is Tram Tram a family-owned trattoria in the San Lorenzo neighbourhood "Total bomb trattoria," says Parla "It's on one of the more aesthetically challenged streets in Rome "Touristy food has no identity behind it A bunch of random Italian dishes slapped on the menu responding specifically to a tourist demand [like] Bolognese and Alfredo and pasta e fagioli and carbonara and pesto which is what you would find in an airport; not in a quality food place in Rome." is situated on a graffiti-streaked block near a ring road leading to the city's bleak outskirts "San Lorenzo suffered during the Second World War," Parla points out "People forget that Italy lost the war." is found near the neighbourhood's tram tracks "The owners are lovely," says Parla like rigatoni with pajata (calf rennet) but then you'll also find fave e cicoria (fava beans with chicory greens)." Parla also notes that Tram Tram is vegetarian and pescatarian friendly – a rarity in pork-rich Roman cuisine "And it feels like you walked into like an old-school workers' cafeteria but the food is excellent and the wine list is spectacular Address: Via dei Reti Facebook: Tram Tram Osteria "Bonci's very much on the radar already," she explains "People sleep on visiting Italy in the winter It's actually magical and it's 65F (18C) at Christmas the last few years." Parla's current ultra-insider pizza by the slice tip is Pantera "'A classic slicery," she says "They have the rossa (pizza with tomato sauce) with an herb oil and garlic drizzle on top come in just the traditional tomato-and-mozzarella variety "There aren't 15 different flavours," says Parla But we're talking about a place that opened maybe seven months ago but feels like it's been there for a long time." "You're in walking distance of the Garbatella public housing structures which are just so stunning and so characteristic of the architecture that defined Rome in the early 20th Century." Website: Pantera Garbatella Address: Circonvallazione Ostiense 153 Instagram: @pantera_garbatella A Rota is helmed by Sami el Sabawy The toppings are delicious," says Parla "They've got a great range of fritti (fried starters); in Rome I love their fiori di zucca (zucchini blossoms) with mozzarella and anchovy inside." She adds "They definitely do classics; you can get a capricciosa (pizza with artichokes ham and olives) but they also do a monthly pizza.. Something that isn't a classic but it's bringing you great Italian ingredients and toppings on a light and crispy base." The family-friendly spot also attracts "lots of couples" "It's a cute date spot because they have a good wine and beer selection You can bring your grandma… It's great Website: https://www.facebook.com/arotapizzeria/ Address: Via di Tor Pignattara Instagram: @arotapizzeria "Unbelievable quality fish," emphasises Parla Even though we're 13 miles from the sea but they have an excellent purveyor of fish coming from the Lazio coast." Parla's description of Da Michele's fish dishes is a siren song: "Crazy delicious fried anchovies to start," she says "Excellent in-season puntarelle (chicory) with alici fritte (fried anchovies); a twist on the typical salted anchovy dressing Then there are super-simple classics like sauteed mussels; delicious Spaghetti with vongole veraci (carpet-shell clams) and verza croccante (crunchy Savoy cabbage); adding a little bit of seasonal produce into a classic The frittura di paranza (fried mixed catch); excellent." Parla also champions the French-influenced wine list and the festive vibe there's always someone celebrating their 99th birthday," she says "This is where you take your great grandma you fill the place with balloons and everyone in the place ends up celebrating with great-grandma." Website: https://www.ristorantedamicheleroma.it/ Address: Via Tiberio Imperatore Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ristorantedamicheleroma "Menabó is the best for restrained contemporary Italian," says Parla of the stylish bistrot run by brothers Paolo and Daniele Camponeschi "It doesn't serve a specific regional cuisine They're doing roasted pork neck with spicy caponata (eggplant and potato stew) Parla also cites the Menabó's picchiapò (boiled meat) – "instead of beef they do it with veal" – and their macco di fave (fava bean stew) "They do pici [pasta] with mussels with tomatoes and friggitelli (shishito peppers) and lemon zest," says Parla "The menu changes all the time but not in a way that's forced They're really dialing things in seasonally and through repetition but what they're really looking at is all of Italy; great ingredients and then bringing them together in delicious ways." Website: https://menabovinoecucina.it/ Address: Via delle palme 44 D/E Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/menabovinoecucina But as much as Parla loves exploring Rome's outer quartieri, there are some restaurants in the city centre she believes are worth wading through the crowds… and you won't have to queue. Like her next pick, Cesare al Pellegrino "It's always surprising to me how easy it is to get a reservation at Cesare al Pellegrino," says Parla. "It's on Via Pellegrino and in one direction, you have hundreds of people standing in line for Osteria Fernanda and on the other, you have dozens of people in line for Barnum but I'm not waiting in line for coffee "You just walk up to the counter and order coffee and don't have to sit down and wait!" The tiny tavern stays true to its pre-war pedigree and serves satisfying classic Roman dishes like picchiapò and Roman-style cod "What Cesare al Pellegrino provides is the dope wine list that Leonardo and Maria Pia are known for," says Parla "It's not a super-ambitious menu that's trying to do everything They have retained Settimio's meatballs Website: https://trattoriadacesare.it/trattoria-da-cesare-al-pellegrino/ Address: Via Del Pellegrino Instagram: @trattoriadacesare "It's gelato spelled backwards," says Parla of this teeny gelateria in beautiful tourist-flocked Trastevere along the banks of the Tiber River "It's in Trastevere's more residential area It's super magical and all the flavours are perfect so if I'm getting fruit instead of pistachio that really says something." "I would say with one exception – Barnum – if there's a line I've never encountered a great place that also has a long line – yet." Otaleg – "this narrow little hole in the wall exposed beams" – is run by gelatiere Marco Radicioni "His flavours are really spectacular and the ingredients are so good," says Parla "It should have a line of 100 people but there's usually no one even there He uses a very restrained amount of sugars so instead of blasting your palate with sugar to mask the bad ingredients it's the amount of sugar that's necessary to enhance the experience to enhance the flavour without losing any of the nuance." Parla's challenge for the "adventurous traveller": Otaleg has a second location in Monteverde Vecchio that also does pastry and coffee Website: https://www.otaleg.com/gusti-it/ Address: Via di S.Cosimato,14a Instagram: @otaleg.radicioni "There are multiple locations," says Parla "But there's one in Trastevere that has table service and also the most insane Lazio wine list No one is on point like they are… And you can go there and have [amazing] wine and then your sandwich is a pizza pita for five bucks stuffed with Roman and pan-Italian ingredients like pollo alla cacciatora (chicken and tomato stew) and eggplant Parmesan "But if you need to dip your toe in the offal pool without committing to a whole plate they've got tongue with parsley sauce," says Parla Everyone wants to eat in Trastevere and honestly most of the food in Trastevere is so grim That place is just always super consistent [and] spot-on but if you've been in Rome for five minutes Website: https://www.trapizzino.it/ Address: Piazza Trilussa Instagram: @trapizzino "The chef from Roscioli moved there," says Parla "It's this elegant space with tableside tiramisu And everyone's gonna go to the Trevi Fountain anyway; they might as well have a good meal while they're doing it." Baccano's ultra-chic menu ranges from Scottona beef burgers to a rainbow of cheese offerings, as well as chef Nabil Hassen's signature pastas like homemade gnocchi with pesto and calamari "You can just walk in and eat at the bar Sometimes when you're on a date night you just want to have something light and quick so you can be sexy So you don't have to sit down for all the courses but just get a cheeky pasta a glass of wine and be out… It has a huge number of covers so you can usually just walk in." Website: https://www.baccanoroma.com/ Address: Via delle muratte 23 Instagram: @baccanoroma BBC Travel's The SpeciaList is a series of guides to popular and emerging destinations around the world as seen through the eyes of local experts and tastemakers If you liked this story, sign up for The Essential List newsletter – a handpicked selection of features For more Travel stories from the BBC, follow us on Facebook, X and Instagram. 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Invented to satiate pregnancy cravings, Dubai chocolate is a rare combination of creativity, flavours and social media success that has broken all industry records. at a congress of his Socialist Party in Seville on December 1st While Europe’s other large economies are plunged in gloom It is set to grow 3% this year (see chart 1) it now boasts 1.8m more jobs than at the end of 2019 Investors have noticed: with faster growth and a lower fiscal deficit than France Spain has seen its bond yields dip below those of its northern neighbour for the first time since 2007 This article appeared in the Europe section of the print edition under the headline “The Spanish exception” Discover stories from this section and more in the list of contents George Simion will face Nicusor Dan, a mainstream candidate, in a run-off There are five luxuries it can no longer feasibly afford Friedrich Merz’s career is one of unforced errors and puzzling missteps. But he is serious about Europe Both Donald Trump and Ukraine’s diplomats will consider it a success Japanese streetwear brand BAPE and The Online Gallery (THE OG) hosted a brunch at The Standard Spa The event brought together artists and creatives during Art Basel Miami marking the official launch of the latest edition of the cultural publication widely recognized as a pioneer in Japanese streetwear making Art Basel Miami a fitting backdrop for this collaboration “A BATHING APE exists to challenge expectations emphasizing its commitment to supporting creativity for more than three decades This ethos aligns with THE OG’s mission to amplify diverse artistic voices and challenge the boundaries of accessibility in the art world The BAPE and THE OG partnership has previously celebrated creativity in cities like Los Angeles BAPE launched its SHARK STA silhouette with a pop-up in Atlanta’s Buckhead Village featuring a mural by Atlanta-based artist Dr Fahamu Pecou and a collaboration with THE OG on Edition 12 BAPE has extended its reach with pop-up activations in Beijing each featuring unique retail experiences and localized art These activations aim to merge BAPE’s streetwear appeal with cultural touchpoints in cities renowned for their contributions to art and style the partnership continued with the release of THE OG Edition 13 The latest edition features award-winning cover artist José Parlá alongside a range of creatives and cultural innovators THE OG’s mission to spotlight diverse talents and push artistic boundaries underscores the collaboration’s significance The BAPE and THE OG partnership demonstrates how fashion and art can intersect to foster community and creativity on a global scale International players going back to business, imports from New York and Christian Pulisic’s language skills all play a part in the first USMNT Player Tracker of the new European season Each week we will be bringing you updates on the USMNT players plying their trade in various leagues around Europe With a World Cup on home soil on the horizon we’re keeping tabs on how they perform every weekend Pulisic scoring, Antonee Robinson assisting, Gio Reyna on the bench and Weston McKennie’s Juventus career revived — new season familiar start for some of the USMNT’s main men in Europe where McKennie has experienced deja vu by standing his ground successfully once again the mood music from Juve throughout July and early August suggested the Texan was surplus to requirements at the Allianz Stadium as new manager Thiago Motta tried to reshape his midfield with new recruits Fresh faces have arrived in the form of Brazil international Douglas Luiz and highly-rated French star Khephren Thuram, but despite being pursued by Aston Villa and interest from clubs in MLS His contract had been set to expire next summer and McKennie held the better cards knowing he could afford to choose the right move for him or stay and sign a pre-contract agreement to join a new team as a free agent Should he depart when his deal in Turin expires when he was dropped from the club’s summer tour of the United States There was no glowing interview with either player or manager when the club officially announced his extension, but Motta had already signalled his shift in stance, albeit in lukewarm terms, before Juventus’ opening game of the Serie A season against Como last Monday McKennie is a useful and functional player for our needs,” Motta said at a news conference McKennie was an unused substitute and will hope for some minutes in the club’s second game against Verona tonight given injury doubts over his compatriot Timothy Weah and Thuram Weston McKennie exclusive: 'Everyone doubted me.. That well-trodden path from Major League Soccer to Europe remains as popular as ever. This time it is New York Red Bulls midfielder Bento Estrela who is close to joining Sporting Lisbon in Portugal at under-17s level but is also eligible for Portugal is expected to seal a switch to the defending Primeira Liga champions on Monday Estrela signed professional terms with Red Bulls in 2021 aged 14 years and 364 days, which at the time made him the fourth-youngest signing in MLS history behind Freddy Adu, Emmanuel Ochoa and Gabriel Slonina He has not yet made his senior debut for Sandro Schwarz’s side but he is highly-rated and the New York club have inserted a sell-on clause It will be intriguing to see how Ruben Amorim regarded as one of the brightest young managers on the continent Yunus Musah has vouched for his team-mate with club and country Christian Pulisic’s flourishing language skills in Milan “He is actually speaking it a lot lately,” he said of the forward “Although they may speak to him in English He has learned a lot and the coaches have started speaking to him in Italian “Even though he spent a lot of time in America he obviously hasn’t forgotten the language Now I am not even translating anything for him Pulisic has obviously benefited from a good teacher — Musah is fluent in Spanish and Italian That much has translated to his first three Championship starts, providing a dependable part of Boro’s spine with four shots and as many chances created through 239 minutes his most advanced shift came in his only away day to date He could hardly ask for a better tutor than manager Michael Carrick as the U.S. international hopes to push his new club to the Premier League for the first time since 2016-17 The forward’s goal in Milan’s surprise 2-1 opening-day defeat by Parma might But the close-range finish earned the USMNT star a niche entry in the record books Pulisic has now scored in 10 different seasons in Europe’s top five leagues becoming the first American to score at least one goal in each season across that period After his faltering attempt to relaunch his career in the Premier League at Nottingham Forest last season Reyna is back with Dortmund and even though the German side have a new manager in Nuri Sahin their first game followed a familiar script for the young American He came off the bench in the 81st minute but was outshone by another young attacker, Jamie Bynoe-Gittens, who scored twice to seal a win over Eintracht Frankfurt Continuing this week’s theme of familiarity the duo were back among the goals — netting one apiece — as defending champions PSV started in the sort of form that propelled them to a near-unbeaten campaign last season They demolished Almere City 7-1 and Tillman Pepi had to contend with a spot on the bench but he did what he does best and still made his mark in a second-half cameo The 23-year-old scored as Leeds beat Sheffield Wednesday 2-0 and now has two goals in the West Yorkshire club’s first three games of the EFL Championship season On Thursday, Real Betis and their USMNT midfielder Johnny Cardoso are in Europa Conference League qualifying action against Ukrainian club FC Kryvbas Kryvyi Rih (3pm Pulisic and Musah will hope to help AC Milan return to winning ways in Serie A on Saturday when they face Lazio (2:45pm Champions League conqueror is a fiery tactical zealot but narrative has always been that England need a winner at least we know now why Lee Carsley spent last week addressing the nation’s media in the style of a low-comedy adulterous 1950s sales executive explaining in flustered detail exactly why or indeed why not he might or might not be on the verge of finally leaving his wife The news that the Football Association has been engaged in advanced discussion with Thomas Tuchel over the vacant England head coach role does explain the riddle-me-this tone of the interim choice while discussing the immediate future. Read moreCarsley will have known that some kind of moves were afoot at executive level, forced to obfuscate and say nothing It was – in retrospect –an impressive piece of semantic plate-spinning Perhaps the next time Carsley has a public platform he could turn his talents to explaining dark matter or the paradox of Trigger’s Broom (“Well It also seems in keeping with Carsley speak that the prospect of Tuchel is an intriguing, baggage‑heavy appointment that might turn out to be a not un‑good idea. Tuchel for England actually makes a lot of sense Looking back it is understandable that initial reports of an approach last week were dismissed as agent talk an attempt to shake out a job offer elsewhere History suggests the FA is always the mark in the room when it comes to this stuff job offers fluttering from its top pockets it seems the current executive are in fact close to an objectively impressive piece of recruitment While objectivity has never really had much place around here Tuchel will represent a significant departure in two obvious ways this would be the first time the FA has appointed a coach who has worked in England and won the European Cup and undertook the first with all the infectious enthusiasm of a man cleaning out a particularly noxious cat litter tray Don Revie and Bobby Robson won European trophies Sven-Göran Eriksson hoovered up some high-spec silverware This is a former Uefa men’s coach of the year who led two clubs to the final of the Champions League in three years he has that obvious recent major final victory or at least one containing three English players in the squad for the final If the idea is to retain the possession-centred systems football of the England DNA years while infusing this with some knowledge of how to actually win big games in the saddle; if being sacked for failing to appreciate Todd Boehly’s Monopoly-on-acid vision of team building can be considered in retrospect a massive tick; then Tuchel fits the job description very well Thomas Tuchel led Chelsea to their second Champions League trophy beating the heavily favoured Manchester City in the final Photograph: Alexander Hassenstein/Uefa/Getty ImagesThe problem is no other job is so prone to variables and irrationality The second obvious departure from the norm Eight decades ago Britain went to war with a previous iteration of Germany And while it seems safe to say the number of people in the country who would actually see this four people in a pub who do not really mean it; it is also quite clear it will be raised as an issue if only by that class of media commentator who appears to be still out there fighting Operation Market Garden from inside a shrubbery just outside Eindhoven It should be a matter of genuine concern to the nation that this issue will be raised even as a lazy twanging of some old cultural signifiers as though simply to be German is to carry for all eternity the war guilt of the Third Reich Harald Schumacher’s foul on Patrick Battiston Andreas Möller sexy-dancing on your tenderest hopes at Wembley and with an amusing gusto (the eponymous King is how outraged should we feel at this further act of cultural betrayal The short version of this is: it does not matter The only tiny dandruff flakes of meaning to be gleaned here simply is further evidence of just how impossibly strange and difficult the job is in the first place From the FA’s point of view this is a genuine A-list hire and an early win The simple narrative of the past few years has been that all England really need is a winner One objection is that Tuchel is in effect an external hire What Tuchel expresses perfectly is the success of the German coaching school of the past 20 years What does this express about English football other than the obvious fact that it does not produce coaches of similar stature The paradox here is Tuchel does express what English football has become at its top end Which is essentially a global clearing house for the expertise of others a national association where the stated DNA of the England team is based on the same possession-heavy early 2000s blueprint that Tuchel has himself adapted One useful thing in not actually having any recognisable national style You can pretty easily fit in with what is out there England is also chaos, tournaments, intensity, issues. In this regard the greatest tick Tuchel could have is his first year at Chelsea, and the extraordinary feat of propelling that disconnected team to a Champions League victory, all the while running up a set of collapsing stairs. Tuchel has shown he thrives in adrenal chaos. Well, we have that. Often overlooked, he also spoke with clarity and warmth during the difficult times of Covid and the collapse of the Chelsea ownership. For a while during the early weeks of the Russia-Ukraine war it felt like Tuchel was the only public figure speaking about what this might mean, even if he was mainly doing this while wearing a beanie hat and talking to Joe Cole and Jake Humphrey. Tuchel was good in extremis, never more convincing than when looking wild and wired, arms revolving, eyes boggled, feeding off the chaos. Win the matches and the rest tends to fall into line. And Tuchel is as good at winning those games as anyone England are likely to get. It may not end in triumph, if only because it very rarely does. But this makes sense on most levels; outside the ones where sense is rarely found in any case. Karin Dreijer has been pushing boundaries ever since they released their first record with their brother as the eerie electronic house duo the Knife. As they prepare to play the End of the Road festival as Fever Ray, they talk to Annabel Nugent about regressive attitudes towards families in Sweden and the threat to artists posed by the rise of the far-right Sweden Democrats I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice It takes time for the Swedish musician Karin Dreijer to turn into the gender queer electronica artist Fever Ray Physically it is a long process that involves garish makeup and sometimes a wig but more often a bald cap “If it’s been a while [since I’ve performed] I’ll try to put on the whole costume way ahead of time and just sit there,” the 49-year-old Dreijer says when they first began releasing eerie electronic music (“haunted house” if you will) as the Knife with their brother the siblings were rarely photographed without a disguise of some sort The pair never attended the Swedish Grammis And when Dreijer did accept an award for their solo work as Fever Ray in 2010 they did so wearing a frightening fleshy mask that looked like Miss Piggy left in a sauna but costumes serve a different purpose these days “I don’t think about it in that sense any more It’s more a way to make the performance true or real a way for me to try to tell stories more clearly,” says Dreijer over Zoom – sans mask They are home in Stockholm taking a breather from touring before flying to the UK for the End of the Road festival next week. Breaks are necessary: Fever Ray gigs tend to provide a tremendous spectacle pounding life typically accompanied by an astounding light show “Best show I’ve ever seen,” is not an uncommon comment to see on YouTube clips of their sets for the simple reason that it’s rare for them to put out music they have released just three albums – each as critically acclaimed and long-awaited as the last; on Pitchfork they have an enviable average rating of 8.3 Dreijer makes experimental art pop that sheds the steely club beats of the Knife while retaining all the playful menace and humour The most recent of these albums arrived last year with Radical Romantics, a title that harks back to the Knife’s brief existence as the dance-poppers du jour in the early Noughties, thanks to the release of their loved-up sugar-rush hit “Heartbeats” – immortalised in commercials and Jose Gonzalez’s popular acoustic cover has come close to being so pop-oriented or commercially successful.) Radical Romantics follows in the footsteps of 2017’s Plunge a libidinous thrust of an album that came to a climax with Dreijer shouting: “I want to run my fingers up your pussy!” mid-record “I just wanna be touched/ I just wanna shiver/ Can I trust you?” Dreijer hesitates against the alarm-sounding bassline of “Shiver” Elsewhere on the album “Even It Out” imagines them exacting revenge on a teenager “who bullied my kid in high school” with a pickaxe Where the Knife would find inspiration in politics and critical theory (their last show together in 2014 was titled “Post-Colonial Gender Politics Come First Fever Ray offers Dreijer a chance to explore more introspective territory “I’m more interested in feelings: how to feel and to be able to feel things,” they say “But then I think that is also very political.” Take their 2009 solo debut written when Dreijer was a new mother in a heterosexual marriage Dreijer sang of dishwasher tablets and kitchen sinks charging against the confines that motherhood comes with telling Dreijer that listening to the album when I was 16 made me rethink having children “And what do you think now?” Things feel better now Mothers are less boxed in than they were a decade or so ago Enjoy unlimited access to 100 million ad-free songs and podcasts with Amazon Music If you sign up to this service we will earn commission This revenue helps to fund journalism across The Independent Dreijer is not so sure. “At least in Sweden the politics around families have become worse,” they say “There is a new wave of young women who want to stay home and not have an education or find a job because they want to be housewives I think it’s super-important for society to have collective care of children because it is a lot of work to bring up kids The idea of family in Sweden is very binary but families where there are three or more parents “I’m happy that I’m not having children today It was when making music as the Knife that Dreijer first started to push at the borders of gender Abandoning the sweetness of their early hits the siblings veered into stranger territory So heavily processed were their vocals that they seemed to emit from some place unknown without gender or name “I realised that if I say something with a very female voice it’s read in a totally different way than if I say it with a dark “Music was a free space to play around in a way that I didn’t know I needed at the time.” Dreijer started using they/them pronouns – or hem in Swedish – in 2018 “I haven’t thought much about it,” they say of their decision It was just a natural thing that happened.” It’s been a journey that began with making music I didn’t have the words to understand what it is that we were doing which a lot of people are struggling with right now.’” Dreijer is aware of that fact as they raise their own two kids I didn’t have the knowledge about trans people or non-binary identities but it’s something we’ve talked about a lot in the last 10 years,” they say “So I hope I’m as open as possible.” It’s more than Dreijer can say for Sweden the party responsible for building the Swedish welfare state – and for the first time ever the radical right-wing Sweden Democrats gained real political power becoming the second biggest party in parliament Dreijer found their way into music through the indie guitar scene – and was stubborn in their pursuit of it as a career “My parents couldn’t really say anything because I moved out when I was 18,” they say You don’t need their blessing or permission to do anything in that sense because you don’t need their money “It was very male dominated and very straight,” Dreijer says “Labels run by dudes who signed their friends who were also dudes.” With their band at the time Dreijer did end up releasing music on one such dude-run label “But I had to compromise so much,” they say They shake their head as if erasing a bad dream and laugh “I’ve tried to forget,” Dreijer says finally “But I’m very happy that I got away.” Hundreds of thousands of fans are very happy about that End of the Road festival takes place from 29 August to 1 September Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies govt and politics"},{"score":0.634641,"label":"/law As they prepare to play the End of the Road festival as Fever Ray they talk to Annabel Nugent about regressive attitudes towards families in Sweden Tuesday World Subscribers only Romania heads for political crisis World Subscribers only In Zurich the leaf blower war or the anti-'woke' backlash World Subscribers only Germany's Friedrich Merz is embracing pragmatism World Subscribers only Trump-Carney meeting: Canada seeks reconciliation World Subscribers only Founder of Sant'Egidio community fears next pope could undo Francis's legacy Opinion Subscribers only 'Russian gas and Europe is an old story that ended badly Economy Subscribers only Europe's steel industry flattened by crisis World Subscribers only How European countries plan to fund defense efforts France Subscribers only Macron announces citizens' convention on school schedules France Subscribers only 21 charged over French prison attacks as investigation narrows in on drug traffickers France Subscribers only French mosque stabber was driven by 'morbid fascination,' prosecutor says France Subscribers only At the trial of Kim Kardashian's robbers Videos World expos: From Paris 1855 to Osaka 2025 Videos How the Trump administration is attacking scientific research in the US Videos Tesla cars set on fire in Las Vegas as calls to boycott Musk's company grow worldwide Videos Can France's nuclear deterrent protect Europe Opinion Subscribers only 'The American dream is dying' Opinion Subscribers only John Bolton: 'The term chaos is commonly used to describe the top of the Defense Department' Opinion Subscribers only 'It is pointless to imagine a significant wave of American academics leaving' Magazine Subscribers only Tracking down the pianos taken from French Jews during the Nazi Occupation Magazine Subscribers only Eve Rodsky the American helping couples balance the mental load Magazine Subscribers only Desecration or more glory Joan Didion's private diaries are revealed Magazine Subscribers only For Jewish cartoonist Joann Sfar 2025."> Pixels Subscribers only Golden Owl solution is revealed but leaves players of 31-year hunt disappointed Pixels Subscribers only Secrets of decades-long Golden Owl treasure hunt to be revealed Lifestyle Inside Chanel's French leather workshops Culture Subscribers only The marvelous bronzes of Angkor on display at the Musée Guimet in Paris Germany's future chancellor Friedrich Merz admitted for the first time that he intended to 'discuss' expanding nuclear protection with London and Paris many questions remain about how such a plan would be implemented By Cécile Ducourtieux (London, correspondent), Philippe Ricard and Elise Vincent Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelensky and French President Emmanuel Macron with British Prime Minister Keir Starmer (center) at Lancaster House Palace JUSTIN TALLIS/AP The debate is highly sensitive and has only just begun Amid a transatlantic crisis caused by the United States' alignment with Russia over the war in Ukraine French President Emmanuel Macron on February 28 reopened discussions about extending France's nuclear umbrella to other European countries "France has always recognized the European dimension of its vital interests," said Macron on the sidelines of a state visit to Portugal This statement was a response to an unexpected position from Germany's future chancellor this fervent Atlanticist had announced his intention to "discuss with the British and the French whether their nuclear protection could also be extended [to the Germans]." Germany's openness has yet to be confirmed but it has given the French president the opportunity to push forward an idea that Paris has long supported – one that had previously faced only rejection and mistrust in Berlin France's stance now seems to be echoed by other previously reluctant countries A French diplomatic source explained that "the question is being raised more intensely because of the growing uncertainty about the American guarantee and American commitment to NATO." You have 79.41% of this article left to read Lecture du Monde en cours sur un autre appareil Vous pouvez lire Le Monde sur un seul appareil à la fois Ce message s’affichera sur l’autre appareil Parce qu’une autre personne (ou vous) est en train de lire Le Monde avec ce compte sur un autre appareil Vous ne pouvez lire Le Monde que sur un seul appareil à la fois (ordinateur En cliquant sur « Continuer à lire ici » et en vous assurant que vous êtes la seule personne à consulter Le Monde avec ce compte Que se passera-t-il si vous continuez à lire ici Ce dernier restera connecté avec ce compte Vous pouvez vous connecter avec votre compte sur autant d’appareils que vous le souhaitez mais en les utilisant à des moments différents Nous vous conseillons de modifier votre mot de passe Votre abonnement n’autorise pas la lecture de cet article merci de contacter notre service commercial If you have done all of this and still can't find the email The first match will be at Mestalla with the other two played away Valencia CF will play three matches in seven days wrapping up November after the international break The team will compete in two LALIGA EA SPORTS fixtures and one Copa del Rey game Rubén Baraja’s squad will host the verdiblanco team at Mestalla and pay tribute to the victims and those affected by the devastating DANA storm that struck various municipalities in the Valencian Community Valencia CF has won 57 of the 78 matches played at their home ground against Real Betis—a success rate of 73.08% Valencia CF will visit the Estadio Las Américas in the opening round of the 2024 Copa del Rey Originally postponed due to the historic flooding in Valencia province this game will see the che squad face CP Parla Escuela a team from Group II of the Primera División Autonómica Aficionado in Madrid The Estadi Mallorca Son Moix and the historic Lluís Sitjar have always posed a challenge for Valencia CF with the team securing victories in 39.53% of their visits The last Valencia CF victory in Mallorca came in 2022 their most recent win on Mallorcan soil was in 2011 Already a member? 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Sign up Explore our Food Tours → Editor’s note: In the latest installment of our recurring First Stop feature we asked food writer Katie Parla about her favorite bites and food memories in Palermo Katie is a Rome-based food and beverage writer and bestselling cookbook author whose family emigrated to the United States from Palermo and history that shape Italy and its cuisine I first visited Palermo as a university student more than 20 years ago I was in Italy on a travel fellowship for thesis research so I decided to roll a study trip and an ancestral quest into one I arrived in town in the peak of summer after a very long and very hot overnight train ride from Rome When I hit the pavement in the thick Palermo heat the port neighborhood in which my great grandfather Niccolò was born and the new family packed all their belongings for a one-way trip to New York in 1906 I wondered what Niccolò would think about me being there alone Had he eaten panelle (chickpea fritters) from a street vendor’s stall on this very spot Food was on my mind that morning in a major way I had neglected to pack any food for my train journey and if there was a bar car I hightailed it to the first storefront I saw one with white plastic tables and chairs overlooking the small port Inside at the blue and white tiled counter steaming rectangles of panelle were dumped from the fryer basket onto a stainless steel tray then sprinkled with a heavy dose of salt from a greasy metal container I ordered the panelle with potato croquettes – I was still an Italy rookie but I had figured out that if there was an option for double or triple carbs I should go for it – and they were piled into a seeded sesame bun I handed over some lira bills and ate my panelle e crocche’ sandwich overlooking the water where I imagined Niccolò had once played sailboats now bobbing where small fishing vessels would have been moored a century earlier Niccolò never did return to the Cala My first stop is always to that hole-in-the-wall which I now know is called Pani Cà Meusa Porta Carbone. My order has changed since I let the name of the establishment guide me – pani cà meusa means “spleen sandwich.” The decor has also changed There is a TV screen that broadcasts the menu New bright lighting reflects off the glistening strips of lard-drenched meusa But the food is just how it has been since opening in 1943 and the pigeons that graze and weave amongst the tables are just as plump Katie’s new book, Food of the Italian Islands, is available via Amazon and Katie’s website You don't have permission to access the page you requested What is this page?The website you are visiting is protected.For security reasons this page cannot be displayed and podcaster Katie Parla discusses what it took to become a food writer in Italy If you buy something from an Eater link, Vox Media may earn a commission. See our ethics policy In How I Got My Job folks from across the food and restaurant industry answer Eater’s questions about She also consulted on the Italy-based episodes of the Netflix series Master of None calling it one of the coolest projects she’s ever done “Spending two weeks immersed in the food of Modena was a dream even a short time was long enough to become a regular at wine bars “It was a fun break from Roma.” Through it all Parla somehow finds the time to lead culinary walking tours and host a podcast about food But food journalism wasn’t always part of Parla’s life plan she didn’t even realize you could make a career out of writing about Italian cuisine Parla discusses how she became an authority on dining in the Eternal City through a combination of education Katie Parla: I live in Rome, Italy, where I am a freelance food and beverage journalist, culinary guide, cookbook author, and co-host of the podcast Gola Everything I do is related to food and drinks so I spend a lot of time researching those topics What did you originally want to do when you started your career I just wanted to survive on writing about food and drinks and the people who make them and was totally open to every possible medium from online publications to newspapers to mobile apps I did my master’s degree in Italian Gastronomic Culture at Università degli Studi di Roma “Tor Vergata” and the Italy-centric sommelier certification course offered by FISAR (Federazione Italiana di Sommelier and I learn best in a classroom setting with structured lessons and assigned readings Education gave me a solid base to build on and intense curiosity have been better teachers for me What would you have done differently or paid more attention to at school No complaints or regrets with my graduate studies but I wish I knew food writing was a thing back in college I was really into food from a young age and would have focused on food and topics related to it if I had even considered writing as a profession Student loans are such a part of the conversation around higher education right now Has your career trajectory been impacted by debt in any way My master’s degree cost less than $3,000 for a year-long program so [I] was able to pay for the course in full as the bills came due My American college loans took longer to pay off — about 12 years Yale’s endowment nearly tripled to $25 billion My first legal job was working at the Bagel Place in Plainsboro I sold bagels by the dozen and made bagel sandwiches and pizza bagels My first job in Rome was teaching Roman topography to freshmen at an international private school a gig for which I was profoundly unqualified and criminally underpaid How did you get started covering the food and beverage industry I started writing about Rome in general in 2003 I began focusing on food and beverage over other topics in 2006 What was the biggest challenge you faced when you were starting out I was based in Italy and didn’t really have any connections in journalism or to editors Building relationships and getting on people’s radar took years When was the first time you felt successful When I published my first piece in the New York Times Travel section (shout-out to Dan Saltzstein I hired London-based designers and developers to create mobile apps “Katie Parla’s Rome” and “Katie Parla’s Istanbul.” They were massive projects that I self-funded at huge expense and we were in the process of creating two more city apps when the developers disappeared leaving me with code I couldn’t update myself When Apple updated its operating system for mobile devices Other developers I interviewed to update my apps quoted such outrageous prices that I had to abandon my mobile babies What was the turning point that led to where you are now after three years in Italy writing about everything I could — archeology restaurants — I decided to focus solely on food I gave myself a year to determine if I could support myself making such a switch What were the most important skills that got you here which is actually not a skill but just one way some people live and it’s the only reason I have any money in my bank account Italians aren’t big on the whole supporting and advising younger colleagues thing The best part is learning recipes from the best teachers: farmers What is something you didn’t know going into your job Sometimes you have to chase invoices for a year or more How are you making change in your industry This doesn’t change the travel or buying habits of enough consumers What would you have done differently in your career What’s the best piece of career advice you’ve been given What advice would you give someone who wants your job Academic credentials masked my complete and continuing inability to craft a compelling pitch Amy McKeever is a freelance writer based in Washington DC.Photo of Katie Parla by Cobey Arner.Illustrations from the Noun Project: camera by Dhika Hernandita; covered dish by Made by Made; wine by Made by Made; lightbulb by Maxim Kulikov; hand writing by Pongsakorn You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser or activate Google Chrome Frame to improve your experience An exhibition that analyses the impact of human action on marine ecosystems and reflects on how the city's relationship with the sea can be redesigned through an innovation-based approach Barcelona’s opening to the sea was one of the major structural changes that redefined the city in the 1990s the climate crisis is making us re-evaluate its relationship with the sea and the ecosystems it includes The exhibition addresses this issue in an interdisciplinary way all of them disciplines that are capable of suggesting new approaches to the major challenges society is facing The starting point for this exhibition is the history of the relationship between a city – Barcelona – and its seafront it takes a thorough look at the conflicts and circumstances present in coastal communities all over the world which are home to 40% of humankind and make up a significant proportion of our most valued land Benjamin Mehigan with Accept & Proceed and PoOR; Ant Farm; Atelier Luma; Embassy of the North Sea (Sheng-Wen Lo Leon Lapa Pereira & Harpo ’t Hart); Institute for Postnatural Studies & Juan Pablo Pacheco Bejarano; Kelly Jazvac with Patricia Corcoran and Charles Moore; Laboratori d’Aplicacions bioacústiques (UPC); Landlab laboratorio de paisajes; Liam Young; Marina Otero Verzier with Dan Miller; Marshmallow Laser Feast in collaboration with Tom Mustill; Ocean Ecostructures; Studio Klarenbeek & Dros This exhibition is part of the Cultural Regatta Tickets (included temporary exhibitions):General: 6 €; Reduced: 4 € Combined tickets (included permanents exhibitions + temporary exhibitions):General: 9,20 €; Reduced: 6,20 €  Amb motiu de l'exposició temporal L'Oceà parla. Noves ecologies i noves economies del mar, us convidem a la conferència Listen - El so de la vida marina, a Read more > Al voltant d’un terç de les costes del món estan ocupades per platges de sorra. Read more > Milions de tones de microplàstics arriben anualment als oceans. Aquestes partícules de menys de 5 mil·límetres procedeixen tant de la degradació de productes Read more > Unless stated otherwise, the contents of this website are subject to a Creative Commons license A young man focused on working on a computer in a computer lab. | COMUNICAE LIFESTYLE A School Without iPads or Cellphones but With Students Who Program and Create Their Own AIIn Juan Pablo II School in Parla Without screens in the classroom10/02/2025 13:00:00h by EDATV and take their first steps in artificial intelligence At a time when many schools have opted to digitize the classroom with tablets and personal devices Juan Pablo II School in Parla took a different path mobile phones are prohibited and iPads are not part of the methodology but its students not only learn computer science: they program and begin to create their own artificial intelligence This vision responds to a clear idea: educating in technology doesn't mean simply delivering it but teaching to understand it and create with it technology is not a substitute for learning but a tool that is introduced at the right time and with a defined purpose But With Computational Thinking While in other schools students take notes on tablets and books have been replaced by screens and concentration without digital distractions students work on projects that develop their ability to program and understand how artificial intelligence works explains: "Computational thinking is key in 21st-century education but about understanding how technology works to use it intelligently our students will start creating their own AI using GPT models exploring the potential of artificial intelligence and developing essential skills for the future." At the school technology is introduced when students have already developed solid foundations of logic and reasoning They don't consume technology without more: they understand it Beyond the Passive Use of Technology The approach of Juan Pablo II School in Parla breaks with the idea that to learn technology one must be constantly connected to a screen Its students use tools like Scratch to program from an early age and will now take a step further with the creation of their own AI models This educational model demonstrates that true technological learning is not about using devices all the time but about teaching students to think like creators "Because educating in the 21st century is not about distributing tablets in the classroom but teaching students to develop their own future." By Katie Parla Get ready for a carb-driven journey through the trattorias of Rome the kitchens of Sicily (her ancestral homeland) As a 20-year Rome transplant with six Italian cookbooks under my belt, I’d love to say I first encountered focaccia at a traditional Genovese bakery, but my initiation actually happened at a (now-closed) Macaroni Grill and in spite of growing up in an Italian American family I’d never been exposed to Italy’s flatbreads My Southern Italian ancestors no doubt baked their own version of focaccia but the tradition didn’t make it to my generation Sometimes I daydream about those lost recipes—about a mythical focaccia some distant nonna made using (geographically appropriate) durum wheat It would’ve been drenched in extra-virgin olive oil caramelized edges like the focaccias in bakery windows of Bari today.  via Italian immigrants in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and has an unclear origin story the incarnations are many and change from region to region—even village to village What we do know is that flatbreads have been baked in hearths for several thousand years on the Apennine Peninsula—even if the olive oil-enriched slab we know as focaccia today is far more recent.   Italy’s most famous focaccia hails from Genoa and emerged around the late Middle Ages as a Catholic wedding dish symbolizing blessings and prosperity It has since lost its religious affiliation as anyone who’s had a layover in an Italian airport can attest The 1990s, as many of you will recall, were a simpler time for focaccia. Most of it was spongy and rosemary-perfumed à la Macaroni Grill. The bread was a gateway to a world of Italian flatbreads Americans are still discovering. There’s no end in sight! So, embark on your own focaccia journey—this version a happy middle ground between Italy and America tops a Ligurian-style dough with nontraditional lemon slices Get the recipe > ADVERTISEMENTADADWant more SAVEUR?Get our favorite recipes Articles may contain affiliate links, which enable us to share in the revenue of any purchases made. Registration on or use of this site constitutes acceptance of our Terms of Use. you agree with our use of cookies to personalize your experience measure ads and monitor how our site works to improve it for our users There’s more space and more booze at Parla XXI the Assembly Row sibling to North End hideaway Parla “This will be an excellent first, second, third, whatever date spot,” says Matt Schafer, director of operations at Parla XXI, Somerville’s newest cocktail bar. The sibling to Parla, an eight-year-old cocktail gem in Boston’s North End, debuted a few weeks ago at Assembly Row continuing the original location’s popular Dungeon Master program — a mug-club-like journey through 20 original cocktails — and adding a bigger liquor selection and more room an intimate space with a small dining room and just four seats at the bar will find a bit of a different vibe at the much larger Parla XXI “I think [Parla XXI] is a little bit more polished “where Parla’s a little bit more fun and rustic.” Another notable difference: Parla XXI has a full liquor license while the original is saddled with one of Boston’s absurd cordials licenses (The team has worked magic within the license’s confines and the resulting focus on interesting shrubs and shrub-based cocktails carries over to the new location.) This means that Parla XXI is full of new liquors and new cocktails to try “I went pretty hard on the rums,” says Schafer also noting the bar’s extensive amari selection — over 50 options the Dungeon Master cocktail list is different here although participants can work toward their goal bouncing back and forth between the locations For the uninitiated, Dungeon Master is a list of 20 secret cocktails created by the bar staff that customers can try one by one over time, rolling each number on a 20-sided die. The full rules are here; in short The staff will accommodate allergies and dietary restrictions I’m not afraid to have a drink that’s not everyone’s cup of tea but i’m also not trying to have too many where people are like ‘you’re just being mean to us,’” says Schafer “The idea is to take people through an array of different styles of drinks so there’s almost always going to be an egg white drink You’ll get to name a custom cocktail that’s based on your preferences over the course of the Dungeon Master journey About eight people have finished Dungeon Master Level 3 in the North End and about 50 are in the middle of the level “You have to really like us,” jokes Shafer While cocktails are certainly the focus at Parla XXI there’s plenty of care put into the food as well; one can’t safely reach for Dungeon Master status on an empty stomach “We’re keeping true to our somewhat eclectic but somewhat Mediterranean cuisine,” says Schafer There are a few similarities to the North End menu Parla XXI’s menu is a little more focused on small plates meant to be shared Schafer says; pastas are available in both small or entree-sized portions whereas the original Parla just has entree-sized pasta because that’s what people are looking for in the North End “Get the pasta, get the crudos,” says Parla XXI chef Alessandro “Troll” De Luca, an alum of Viale, La Brasa and pastas are just great — they’re both vessels you can do anything you want with Parla XXI (631 Assembly Row, Somerville) is open from 5 p.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday and 5 p.m. to 1 a.m. Friday and Saturday, with weekend brunch beginning shortly. Reserve a table via Resy; indoor and outdoor seating is available. Oops. Something went wrong. Please enter a valid email and try again. Food Styling by Anna StockwellSave RecipeSaveSave RecipeSaveAll products featured on Epicurious are independently selected by our editors we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links anchovies are the key to savory depth of flavor and they For much longer than us funky-flavor-shy Americans southern Italians have understood the power of the anchovy It takes two to three years for this process to complete. The product, Katie points out, is time-consuming and created with the utmost skill and experience. "What's amazing is you don't need a lot of it to go a long way. It's got lots of rich umami flavor." You may have already thought that was true of the generic anchovies you're buying—but wait until you get your hands on just a few drops of this anchovy liquid. As for how to deploy the power of this umami flavor, you can use it much like you'd use anchovies themselves: "It's typical to just toss it with spaghetti that has been cooked with garlic and olive oil, and even a little chili. You dribble a couple of drops of colatura per serving after the pasta has been cooked for that final savory kick." You can buy both the anchovies and colatura online. But, says Katie "if you can, go to Cetara and visit. Nettuno has a little workshop at the edge of the town, and they're the only family still making colatura in this artisanal way in the village. Say 'hi' to Giulio for me!" 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Pubblicità sul sito Logo e banner QUMRA 2025 di Davide Abbatescianni 10/04/2025 - La masterclass finale dell'evento ha approfondito l'approccio del regista di Hong Kong alla sceneggiatura il suo rapporto con il mezzo cinematografico e la creazione di Milkyway Image Questo articolo è disponibile in inglese On the final day of this year’s Qumra (3-9 April) celebrated Hong Kong filmmaker Johnnie To took centre stage for a highly anticipated master class the discussion traced To’s life-long relationship with cinema – from a childhood fascination to the founding of his production powerhouse Milkyway Image – in a session that was as humorous as it was reflective He opened the conversation by recalling how he first fell in love with film a formative memory dating back to his early school years “I was probably eight or nine when I really discovered cinema,” he said His father worked in a warehouse behind a movie theatre “We weren’t allowed to sit with the audience so I’d sneak behind the screen and watch from the back I had to move my head from side to side to take in the full width of the picture,” he added with a smile Cinema was something between real and fake – and I began developing feelings towards films.” Despite his clear affection for the screen I didn’t think continuing my studies would be useful so I started looking for a job.” He applied for four positions and the first offer came from the television broadcaster TVB where he was assigned to the Drama division “That’s when I realised that actors needed a script,” he laughed “I didn’t know that before.” What began as a job quickly evolved into a passion but I also wanted to make something meaningful.” The 1970s and 1980s were a golden era for Hong Kong film and To found himself right in the thick of it “It was a lucky time to be in the industry,” he reflected Directors were exploring new genres to meet audience expectations Peña pointed to To’s rich and varied filmography asking about his genre-blending hit The Heroic Trio (1993) a film featuring three female leads in a super-powered fantasy-action setup but that would have cost too much,” To recalled It felt like we were filming in a post-reality world – almost like animation.” To also discussed his unconventional approach to screenwriting “I often don’t have a complete script when I start filming,” he said although he clarified that this wasn’t always the case especially where we had to move around complex backdrops budget restrictions really affect how we work.” The conversation turned to the creation of Milkyway Image in 1996 I’d directed several box-office hits,” he said “But I felt like an engineer more than an artist I needed a break.” He spent 1995 away from the camera I’m not fully satisfied with most of my films To illustrated the spontaneity of his working method with anecdotes from films like PTU (2003) and Running Out of Time (1999) I was working on two other films at the same time I showed up at a location and saw a hotpot restaurant ‘Let’s do something here.’ That scene appeared early in the film but I hadn’t even thought of the second half yet.” What mattered to him was capturing the “sense of cinema” – a mood and rhythm that transcended dialogue such as the moral ambiguity of law enforcement To said such portrayals were rooted in Hong Kong’s reality “Police in Hong Kong have always had their own rules It’s always been like this – they see things To also spoke about his preference for working with a regular crew and trusted actors “I don’t like wasting time explaining things they become like silent partners,” he said “It’s the same for some Hollywood directors To was clear: “I prefer the traditional way I think film should have a human touch – artistic and commercial Peña probed the issue of violence in his films and whether To believed it could negatively influence viewers Peña asked To for his thoughts on the future of Hong Kong cinema “But coming to Doha has been an eye-opener This place has transformed from desert to city – wealth and maybe this is a chance for Hong Kong’s industry to evolve.” He encouraged younger filmmakers to look beyond their borders Singapore and Indonesia didn’t use to make many films To singled out a recent European Netflix series Iscriviti alla nostra newsletter per ricevere altri articoli direttamente nella tua casella di posta 06/05/2025Cannes 2025 – Marché du Film Classe moyenne punta di diamante di France TV distribution a Cannes 06/05/2025CPH:DOX 2025 – CPH:DOX Industry Europa Distribution esplora la distribuzione dei documentari al CPH:DOX 05/05/2025Cannes 2025 – Marché du Film AFCI organizza il suo secondo Summit annuale del Global Film Commission Network al Marché du Film 05/05/2025Cannes 2025 – Marché du Film Indie Sales presenta una line-up da tre stelle a Cannes 02/05/2025Cannes 2025 – Marché du film Be For Films vende Love Me Tender a Cannes 02/05/2025Cannes 2025/Sponsorizzato La Lettonia brilla a Cannes con il film di Sergei Loznitsa, Two Prosecutors, in concorso Iscriviti alla nostra newsletter per ricevere le più importanti notizie del giorno o della settimana sul cinema europeo Crossing Europe 2025 Recensione: Callas, Darling Cannes 2025 Marché du Film CPH:DOX 2025 CPH:DOX Industry Cannes 2025 Marché du Film Festival / Premi Repubblica Ceca Il festival ceco Anifilm punta sulla fantascienza Distribuzione / Uscite / Esercenti Europa La Giornata europea del cinema d'essai torna il 23 novembre Cannes 2025 Marché du Film HOFF 2025 The Shadow e U Are the Universe vincono al Festival del cinema horror e fantasy di Haapsalu Crossing Europe 2025 Premi The New Year That Never Came e The Flats premiati a Crossing Europe Cannes 2025 Marché du film Cannes 2025/Sponsorizzato Las Palmas 2025 MECAS/Premi Manuel Muñoz Rivas e Joana Carro premiati all'ottavo MECAS Tendenze del mercatoFOCUSUna stagione di festival molto intensa attende l'industria cinematografica europea. Cineuropa continuerà a tenere aggiornati i suoi lettori con le ultime notizie e approfondimenti di mercato, coprendo gli eventi primaverili più attesi, tra cui Cannes, Cracovia, Karlovy Vary, Tribeca, Hot Docs, Annecy, Bruxelles, Monaco e molti altri Distribuzione, esercenti e streaming – 06/05/2025Europa Distribution esplora la distribuzione dei documentari al CPH:DOXIl network ha tenuto un workshop su un caso di studio nell'ambito della sua nuovissima partnership con il festival di Copenaghen Jaśmina Wójcik • Regista di King Matt the First La regista polacca racconta come ha affrontato un classico della letteratura per ragazzi degli anni '20 in modo inaspettato Želimir Žilnik • Regista di Eighty Plus Il regista serbo parla del suo profondo sospetto per le ideologie in relazione al suo ultimo film, irresistibilmente affascinante, che segue un uomo la cui vita attraversa tre sistemi politici Paulina Jaroszewicz • Responsabile distribuzione e marketing, New Horizons Association Cineuropa ha incontrato la distributrice polacca per discutere della strategia della sua azienda e del collegamento tra la sua line-up e il programma del BNP Paribas New Horizons Festival Lorcan Finnegan • Regista di The Surfer Il regista irlandese parla del suo mystery-thriller, di come ha creato il personaggio con Nicolas Cage e del suo approccio all'uso dei colori nel film Privacy Policy Le immagini utilizzate su questo sito web sono state fornite dai giornalisti e si ritiene che siano prive di diritti se sei il proprietario di un'immagine utilizzata su questo sito web e ritieni che la sua utilizzazione costituisca una violazione del tuo diritto di autore ti preghiamo di contattarci immediatamente Rimuoveremo l'immagine in questione il prima possibile Abbiamo fatto tutti gli sforzi ragionevoli per assicurarci che tutte le immagini utilizzate su questo sito web siano utilizzate legalmente e in conformità con le leggi sul diritto di autore Chi siamo | Contattaci | Logo e banner Mission | Partner | Staff | Donazioni | Termini e condizioni