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Round two of the Spanish Championship takes place this weekend at Sanlucar de Barrameda
Ruben Fernandez has entered which will see him race at home before heading to Argentina
Sanlúcar de BarramedaSunday January 26 2025
The TimesIn 1517 the fifth Duke of Medina Sidonia
allowed a colony of English sherry merchants to build a church next to their shipyards
More than five centuries later the church of St George
in the southern port town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda
is the oldest surviving British institution in Spain
It is now appealing for help from Britain to conserve it
The church once served as a refuge for English Catholic priests returning secretly to post-Reformation Tudor England
A sculpture of England’s patron saint lancing a dragon and a familiar red-on-white cross surmounts its magnificent altarpiece
in front of which lies the tombstone of an English noble
The beaches between Rota and Sanlúcar de Barrameda
It is an unforgettable pleasure to canter or gallop along white sand by the Atlantic Ocean to the soothing sound of breaking waves and the light breeze lapping against your skin in the hot months of summer
August is indeed a good time to visit the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda to see its unique beach horse races - the famous Carreras de Caballos
The tradition was started here centuries ago when locals began to race horses used to transport fish from the local ports
Horse racing in Spain began officially in Madrid
They were reportedly held in the ‘estilo inglés’ (English style)
These were periodic equestrian meetings that started the Spanish craze for races
very similar to those still held at Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Horse racing in this western town of Cadiz province actually dates back to 1845
when the Sociedad de Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda (the racing society) was founded
the society handed over the management of this increasingly prestigious event to Sanlúcar de Barrameda town hall
the spectacular equestrian competition was included in the summer programme of town events sponsored by the municipality and thereby became one of the most important ‘fiestas’ in the region
Sociedad de Carreras reformed and took back the reins of the annual horse race
The Sanlúcar races are now part of a national series of equestrian events that includes Madrid
in 2016 the King handed over the title ‘Real’ (Royal) to the racing society
around 80 horses and riders participate in the Sanlúcar de Barrameda races
which take place over distances ranging from 1,400 to 2,000 metres.The beach that stretches from Bajo de Guía to Las Piletas
passing through the central beach of La Calzada is turned into a racecourse
The organisers hold the events in two cycles that coincide with the low tide in the afternoon
It is no secret that the competition attracts high stakes and prize money
which traditionally takes place on the last day of the season
is allocated 13,600 euros: 8,000 euros for first place
1,600 euros for third and 800 euros for fourth
the lower part of Sanlúcar becomes the epicentre of the gathering of people and horses
this neighbourhood of the town is known for its luxury on one hand and survival on the other
gourmet restaurants and elegant villas are juxtaposed with modest dwellings
It is worth noting that nowadays Sanlúcar de Barrameda
with its beaches framed by impressive examples of early 20th-century resort architecture
appears in the list of the poorest towns in the country
August draws a very different clientele to the town
The Sanlúcar de Barrameda races are indeed an annual display of wealth
it is considered very prestigious to be among the flamboyant guests
and ladies in summer suits and wide-brimmed hats
Such an audience gathers to socialise in VIP boxes
which are traditionally set up on the beach for those who can pay more than the basic 20€ entrance fee
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A version of this article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK
The chef José Pizarro buzzes through the covered market in Barbate at speed–past flamenco buskers holding their guitars up to their chins
and crab’s feet—making a beeline for razor clams and bluefin tuna
called atún rojo in Spain for its ruby flesh
The bluefin and its almadraba fishing method have been prized for centuries in these coastal towns
the spring harvest is back: a great haul of enormous fish
which spend winter in the depths of the Atlantic
building a buttery layer of fat that makes the belly
pocketing volcanic black salt and La Breña pine nuts
The old ladies who come here to buy one fish stay all morning
A tostada and coffee is €1.50.” Pizarro seems to know every stall holder
‘Don’t give me a bad tomato again.’ They slip them in.” We gather up almond-truffled dark chocolates from the confitería
sink a couple of Cruzcampos and some chicharrónes
which Pizarro bought with his partner Peter Meades in 2021 after scouring the coast
It clings to the cliff near Zahara de los Atunes
a glassy modernist white cuboid with terracotta terraces
They’ve filled it with interesting art; a vast canvas from Tracey Emin’s A Journey to Death series hangs in their bedroom
CádizØivind HaugCasa La SiestaØivind HaugThe levante and poniente wins determine the mood of Andalusia’s Cádiz province
Hailing from a pastoral village near Caceres
Pizarro wanted a coastal Spanish antidote to his London townhouse life; somewhere to bring friends
his beloved mother (who introduced him to good food but always shooed him from the kitchen)
and clients who want the thrill of being cooked for by Pizarro at home
And maybe somewhere for the cameras: the chef
and owner of seven restaurants is loved by Britain mostly because he’s on Saturday Kitchen a lot
His effervescent fizz is organized and channelled by Meades
a Welsh psychotherapist whom Pizarro calls Pedro
Together they create a timelessly appealing drinks-topped-up hospitality
“He loves being able to drink and dance and listen to music while cooking
and we are in love with the ever-changing sea,” says Meades
you peer across a vast oceanic panorama that glitters and glints and rages and rolls
Africa seems close enough to touch when the Rif mountains appear like a cut-out on the horizon and the lights of Tangier twinkle across the gloam of the Strait of Gibraltar at night—at least when the levante and poniente winds aren’t raging up a storm
Two words you hear ad infinitum in Andalusia’s Cádiz province are levante and poniente
The levante is the easterly blow favored by windsurfers that causes heavy swells
and gives shins an unwanted microdermabrasion
The oppositional winds dictate the ebb and flow of life on the coast
Pomegranate treeØivind HaugSalmorejo soup at Iris ZaharaØivind HaugIf the wind is volatile
They also hint at the character of the “Coast of Light.” The last stretch of Spain’s southern Atlantic coast is no bourgeois
swirling estuaries and Wild West horizons daubed with fast-moving clouds
Moorish pueblos blancos dust the hills like icing sugar
and there’s a vast richness to the ridges and marshes of the national parks that buffer the coast’s extremities
The glorious sun makes this a land of ingredients—of copious olives and sherry (dry fino and amontillado
sunnier oloroso and salty-fresh manzanilla)
executed with a complicated system of nets that has barely altered since Phoenician times
culminates in the Semana Gastronómica del Atún in May
where the Moors landed in 710 CE to take most of Spain
which allows us to peel off in search of plankton risotto; broccoli-like groves of Aleppo pine trees; negronis with the sunset; and skies filled with candy-bright kitesurf sails
But there are other patriarchs of southern Spain to drop in on too: the ones that produce the ingredients Pizarro adores
Ramón Iglesias decided to devote his retirement to resurrecting the organic olive oil industry in his corner of Vejer de la Frontera
and he is most exercised about Tintilla de Rota
tanniny kind popular two centuries ago in Conil
We weave around Iglesias’s 30 varieties of olive trees
“The crazies and multinationals burned every bush here after the Second World War,” he says
“but now we are going back to what we knew: that you need to have a botanical garden.” Lavender
Manzanilla olives are big business here—the ones stuffed with pimentos—and also the picual
Spain’s peppery and chlorophylly bestseller
the price of olive oil has doubled,” he tells me
Because 45 percent of the olive oil production on earth comes from Andalusia.”
José Pizarro at Iris ZaharaØivind HaugCanalis tomatoes with extra virgin olive oilØivind HaugThe warm pride of the Andalusian patriarch ratchets up a notch when we reach Bodega Manuel Aragón
whose sandy vineyards stretch out to the forest fringing the dunes of Barossa
who clarified fino with egg white from when he was a child
plies us with six varieties and teaches us how to hold the stem of the glass with a crossed arm for elegance
“You haven’t finished the last langoustine—eat it,” or take your knife and fork off you because you’re not deboning the fish properly
Barbate MarketØivind HaugWe drink the sherry standing up
minuscule decades-old particles of yeast dancing in the golden liquid as we hold it up in the filmy light
As we progress from bone-dry to treacle-sweet
“The wine needs to be part of the conversation,” he announces
all the nonsense.” He dips a measuring stick
into the barrel to show me the layer of flor—the film of yeast—two fingers thick
By the time we get to the 60-year-old palo cortado
personal anecdotes are being shared in the group
the yogurt-ness,” Moreno growls with appreciation
“This is the best fino in the world; a difficult beast to tame.”
If Pizarro is Andalusia’s Extremadura émigré number one
His name is John Carlos Milburn Rodríguez (his father is English) and he’s here to take us to the wild
The sandstone ranges of Los Alcornocales hunker between the earthy Cádiz and brassy Málaga provinces
We hike through a pristine river valley in the oak groves of San Carlos del Tiradero
past remnant clusters of cork oaks and along dappled dirt roads
to gaze out on forested ridges that unroll to cornflower skies where buzzards float
El ChiringuitoØivind HaugBodega Manuel Aragón in Chiclana de la FronteraØivind HaugBy lunchtime
once the only shop in what is now a ghost hamlet
Her parents and grandparents ran the shop in a village of subsistence laborers who made a living gathering charcoal and cork
fat and morcilla blood sausage are smashed into chickpeas
This is the antithesis of the sleek fish plates of the coast
the food—and how she procured it (off some farmers on a culling mission)—reminds me fondly of Cuba
I think about the families that crossed the Atlantic centuries ago from pockets of Andalusia exactly like this
Sanlúcar de BarramedaØivind HaugIt’s not the first time I’ve felt misty this week
When we headed up to Casa Bigote in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
I had presumed the mustachioed guayabera-clad men and prim ladies with big pressed hair were sombre by nature
we tickled the fancy of the clientele when we requested to photograph the three generations of the Hermoso family who ran the place
plus a handsome septuagenarian patron who was lurking quietly on the balcony
to sing the jaleo—that hell-raising-flamenco call-and-response—with the senior Hermoso
The lady tickled her skirt above her knee as she took to the floor to cry out in passion and
Did I see a tear in the eye of our Norwegian photographer
who had been spoiling to leave since we got there
Tuna tartare at El Cuartel del MarØivind HaugTuna stew at Iris ZaharaØivind HaugIt has been an intense week of richness
preparing an array of precision dishes while maintaining a stream of chat
He whips mint off the top of a gazpacho–“No!”–while reducing fish stock that’s been going for hours
giant cloves of garlic quietly building flavor with bay leaves
He’s frying garlic prawns with chilli piquín pepper—“This will burn your fucking mouth.”—packing his famous prawn and hake croquetas
putting some ribs in the oven (“Eighty-five degrees for two hours; two to three hours at 110; 10 minutes at 220.”) and tackling tuna searing
tarantello (between the belly and the tail)
Pizarro has almost single-handedly produced the feast of my lifetime and cured one of the ghastliest hangovers I’ve ever had (caused by him)
There is nothing reverent about the way we eat the ventrecha de atún
“This is one of the best tuna I’ve had in my life,” proclaims Pizarro
The fever of the day is over and the sunlight is bouncing off the vast crested ocean in dancing sparkles
restlessly perfectionist Haug finally ceases motion and downs tools
cracks open a beer and shrugs on a toweling robe
as the golden light spools over the endless horizon
El ChiringuitoØivind HaugSign on the road from CádizØivind HaugWhere to stay in Costa de la LuzPlaza 18
Vejer de la FronteraOnce a 19th-century merchant’s house
this jewel-box-pretty boutique near a fountain-filled plaza is the prime place to stay in the best-preserved pueblo blanco in Andalusia
Breakfasts unfurl in Michelin-noted El Jardín del Califa
a Moroccan restaurant set in the palm-filled walled courtyard of sister hotel La Casa del Califa
Both properties are part of a network of hotels
restaurants and an atmospheric hammam created by visionary Scottish hotelier James Stuart
This fabulously romantic cortijo below Vejer was reimagined by the founder of London interiors brand Bert & May, who carefully reclaimed the exposed beams, terracotta tiles and iron balustrades in the lovely six-bedroom country house and two self-contained villas
The bountiful locavore food—much from on-site—is best enjoyed outside
with lavender wafting from beautifully primped Mediterranean gardens
Set in two-and-a-half forested acres that roll down to a wild beach on the Punta Paloma peninsula
this beautifully revamped stone bungalow is the brainchild of Marbella Club co-owner Jennica Arazi
who wanted to create a villa hideaway with the same service standards as her hotel
The cool open-plan house and pretty outbuildings are full of local crafts and wicker
with natural hues reflecting the surrounding sea
Zingy Mediterranean food by Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef Helena Martin-Riva can be arranged
but an invitation into her Moorish home with views over Vejer is a deep dive into the epicurean culture of her adopted home
and introduce every ingredient with passion
She has particular expertise in fino and atún rojo
and can wangle tables at El Campero in Barbate: the high church of bluefin tuna
Address: Annie B's Spanish Kitchen, C. Viñas, 1, 11150 Vejer de la Frontera, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: anniebspain.com
opened in 1951 on the Guadalquivir River in super-foodie Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Sanlúqueños pile in for a dizzying array of seafood
but the crème de la crème are langoustines washed down with the local Manzanilla
Address: Restaurante Casa Bigote, C. Pórtico Bajo de Guía, 10, 11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: restaurantecasabigote.co
Chef Angel León’s three-Michelin-starred Aponiente sits at the intersection of experimental food and fine art
in a transformed 19th-century tidal mill setting
León’s zero-waste tasting menus center the more curious delicacies of the sea
from goose barnacles and plankton to seawater broths and bioluminescent amuse bouches
His La Taberna del Chef del Mar in the same town is a good option for a soupçon of the vibe and flavor
Address: Restaurante Aponiente, C. Francisco Cossi Ochoa, s/n, 11500 El Puerto de Sta María, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: aponiente.com
Hunkered into the dunes with a view of the ocean where the huge sun sets
and serious food from globetrotting Michelin-starred chef Manuel Berganza
The tuna tartare marinated in anchovy essence
Address: El Cuartel del Mar, C/Bajada de la Torre del Puerco s/n (Playa de la Barrosa, 11130 Chiclana de la Frontera, Cádiz, SpainWebsite: elcuarteldelmar.com
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Ruben Fernandez won the MX1 qualifying race as he races at home before the MXGP opening round next weekend
The experienced Jose Butron was second thirteen adrift with Ander Valentin rounding out the top three
Oriol Oliver won the qualifying race ahead of Adria Monne Viles with the promising Salavdor Perez third
Both classes will have their two main moto’s tomorrow
Six brilliant places to eat serving the Andalucían specialities in Spain’s latest foodie hotspot
Sanluqueños may have occasional cares and worries
The mood in the seaside town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda
It probably has something to do with the sun and translucent light
and a lot to do with the local manzanilla sherry
has been named Gastronomy Capital of Spain 2022
This will come as no surprise to those who have long flocked to Sanlúcar for long
with palms and a fountain encircled by restaurants with tables and umbrellas
Up a steep hill the Barrio Alto has churches (14th-century Nuestra Señora de la O is stark and mighty)
bodegas behind the white walls of former convents
and a sturdy castle – Castillo de Santiago
A short walk the other way are sandy beaches with moored dinghies
their tables along the beach of the Guadalquivir estuary offering views of fishing boats trailed by seagulls
and the bulbous ferry lumbering to the dunes and sandy wilds of the Unesco-listed Doñana reserve
View image in fullscreenFountain in the Plaza del Cabildo centre of Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Photograph: Cristina Arias/Getty ImagesThe Portuguese Ferdinand Magellan and the woefully overlooked Basque Juan Sebastián Elcano set off from Sanlucar in 1519 on the first circumnavigation of the Earth
arriving back here with just 18 of the initial 270-man crew
View image in fullscreenManzanilla
Visitors can learn its history at the Manzanilla Interpretation Centre; sample it at bodegas
the biggest; or breathe in its aroma at this relaxed
stylish restaurant ensconced within the Hidalgo La Gitana bodega
Specialising in classics such as meat and fish a la brasa (snapper is €19) and arroces, dry, creamy and soupy rice dishes (average €14) raised to sublime levels, it’s a place for lingering in. A glass of La Gitana manzanilla from the barrel costs €2.10; other wines are available.Fri-Sun 1-4pm, 8pm-12midnight. Mon, Wed & Thu lunch only, entrebotasrestaurante.es
Waiters trot stacks of lacy tortillitas de camarones
Those who know their almejas (clams) from their coquinas (cockles) can select from the raw materials in the glass-fronted counter and eat inside
Hotel Posada de Palacio (doubles from €60 room only) is the quirky
balconies and a library and many of the rooms are large
high-ceilinged and furnished with antiques
It’s not sumptuous; the sensation of staying here is sometimes like being the guest of an eccentric
but it is unique (and handy for El Espejo)
Hotel Barrameda (doubles from €49.50 room-only) is calming
air-conditioned and comfortable with trees in tubs
but it’s just off Plaza de Cabildo and there are views across the square from most of the rooms
Juan Sebastián de Elcano was the navigator whose expedition completed the first circumnavigation of the globe
He had been born in the Basque town of Guetaria in 1476 and died of scurvy in the Pacific Ocean in 1526
Having participated in Cardinal Cisneros’ campaign that resulted in the conquest of Oran
where in 1519 he joined the expedition being organised by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan
its aim was to sail west and find a route around southern America to reach the Spice Islands
The fleet discovered what is now the Strait of Magellan and
Magellan was killed in the Philippines in an attack on a native settlement and Elcano took over command of the last remaining ship
he sailed across the Indian Ocean and finally reached the Atlantic
After almost three years and having covered a distance of 14,000 leagues
the ship reached Sanlúcar de Barrameda on September 6th
Although the Victoria arrived laden with spices
the expedition’s original crew of 285 had been reduced to 18 famished and weakened seamen
The Spanish navigator thus completed the first historically documented circumnavigation of the globe
The Emperor Charles V received the survivors at Valladolid
rewarding Elcano with an annuity of 500 gold ducats and granting him a crest depicting a globe with the motto Primus circumdedisti me (‘You were the first to circumnavigate me’)
In the present day the Spanish Navy’s training vessel is named after him
thus honouring his leading role in epic voyage
Print SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA
It took me just a day to slide into the rhythms of Andalusia in southern Spain and become the night owl I’d always wanted to be
ending the evening past midnight with a glass of amontillado at a bar on the square
I had planned this trip to the Sherry Triangle for months
drawn to this corner of southwestern Spain to learn more about the sherry made in one of the world’s top wine regions
is bounded by the towns of Jerez de la Frontera
Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María
about 90 minutes south of Seville and just 20 or so minutes apart
The unique fortified wine has a history that dates to the 17th century
Many of the historic bodegas and shippers were founded in the 18th century before the United States was even a country
sherry was having a long moment in the U.S
sticky dregs in that decanter in your grandmother’s cupboard
That is not the glorious wine I came to experience
only a small proportion of sherry is sweet
and that includes not only fino and manzanilla (a fino made only in Sanlúcar de Barrameda)
Walking through sun-drenched streets lined with hulking white and ocher bodegas
the blanket of ivory yeast cells that forms on top of fino or manzanilla and protects these wines from oxidation
age only partly or not at all under flor.)
Barbadillo or Hidalgo La Gitana house thousands of old casks of sherry in soaring
tall pillars and high windows shaded with hand-plaited straw mats
and tours (in English) provide a quick education in the intricacies of sherry
But there’s much more to this region than just wine
I ate the best seafood of my life here along the Costa de la Luz
I still find myself daydreaming about the briny
raw clams I had at lunch at El Bichero in Jerez or the sublime prawns at Casa Bigote along Bajo de Guía in Sanlúcar
where the Guadalquivir River meets the Atlantic
At the tiny Michelin two-star Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María
the sommelier paired Angel Léon’s spectacular tasting menu with sumptuous old sherries
If visiting cellars isn’t high on your agenda
flamenco clubs and the chance to see the amazing horses from the royal equestrian school
Some prefer the tonier parts of El Puerto de Santa María
but it took me only a couple of hours to decide that Sanlúcar was my town
within walking distance of the sea and across from the huge Doñana National Park and its wetlands
I couldn’t cross the river to the Doñana this time because of the Roció pilgrimage
and I never got to hear any flamenco or visit Cádiz
the oldest continually inhabited city in Spain
Never mind: It’s always good to leave a trip with something undone
connecting service (change of plane) to Seville is offered on Iberia
Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,595
Moderately priced 31-room hotel in good location
Hotel Sherry Park, 11 Avenida Alcalde Álvaro Domecq, Jerez de la Frontera, 011-34-956-31-76-14, www.hotelsherrypark.com/en/
174-room hotel with easy parking yet within walking distance of the city center
Palacio Garvey, 24 Calle Tornería, Jerez de la Frontera, 011-34-956-32-67-00, www.hotelpalaciogarvey.com/en
Boutique hotel in 19th century building in the city’s center with 16 rooms
TRYP Jerez Hotel, 13 Calle Marqués de Casa Domecq, Jerez de la Frontera, 011-34-956-327030, www.lat.ms/1KvH0mh
Well-priced 97-room hotel with excellent location in the center of Jerez just across from Santo Domingo convent
More business hotel than charming boutique
Parking around the corner in an underground public lot
Hotel Barrameda, 10 Calle Ancha, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, 011-34-956-38-58-78, www.hotelbarrameda.com
Stylish bargain boutique hotel just off the main square
Posada de Palacio, 9 Caballeros, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, 011-34-956-36-48-40, www.posadadepalacio.com
has a series of terraces and inner courtyards
irene.virbila@latimes.com
A guide to the sherry bodegas of Spain
Where to get fabulous seafood to pair with Andalusia’s fabulous sherries
Five cocktails worth traveling for, near or far
S. Irene Virbila is a former restaurant critic and wine columnist for the Los Angeles Times. She left in 2015.
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With a record total of 7.8 million foreign tourists in Spain this July, Andalusia’s Sanlúcar de Barrameda is surely one of the country’s last coastal towns where overseas visitors remain a minority.
In the town’s packed central Plaza de Cabildo square, all the newspapers in the one tiny newsagent’s and most of the café menus are in one language alone: Spanish.
Long after midnight, the crowds still squeezing into its ice-cream parlours show no sign of shrinking – but it is still rare to hear a word of English or German.
The reason for Sanlúcar de Barrameda’s enduring popularity with Spaniards is perhaps because its tourist tradition is deep-rooted in local history.
As long ago as the middle of the 19th century, Spain’s aristocracy would build summer villas there to enjoy the refreshing night sea breezes and sip on a cool glass of local sherry – more than a century before the nearby, better-known Costa del Sol became a mass foreign tourist destination. This August, Sanlúcar de Barrameda’s popularity shows no sign of decreasing.
On one side of the river Guadalquivir estuary, the dark lines of jungle-like trees in the Doñana national park stretch, as ever, silently into the horizon.
But on the opposite bank in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, the beaches remain equally densely packed – with gaudily coloured towels and parasols.
Every Friday August evening, though, sunbathers make space for another time-honoured Sanlúcar de Barrameda summer beach tradition: horse-racing.
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The Tax Agency seized 3,600 kilos of hashish from a fishing vessel in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz)
in an operation carried out in the early hours of 19 August
This operation began when a Customs Surveillance aircraft of the Tax Agency detected a 14-metre fishing vessel on Sunday night that did not follow the normal pattern of behaviour for fishing activities
and seemed to have loaded on the boat an indeterminate number of packages that are commonly used to transport hashish
the corresponding operation was set in motion in which various Customs naval and air resources were deployed
commencing a surveillance operation that led to the boarding of the fishing vessel off the coast of Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz)
It was observed that it carried a large number of bundles in the part of the vessel where the nets were stored
which were used in an attempt to conceal them
the members of the crew were arrested and transferred to the port of disembarkation to carry out a detailed search
with an approximate weight of 3,600 kilos of very pure hashish
following a field analysis performed with a chemical test
together with the drugs and the vessel seized
were handed over to the investigating court on duty in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cadiz)
in an air and sea surveillance operation set in motion by Customs
a semi-rigid vessel was detected travelling without lights
which was heading towards the beaches of San Pedro de Alcántara in Malaga
A surveillance operation was activated that led to the load being dumped on the beach
together with a seven-metre long semi-rigid vessel and a stolen 4x4 vehicle that was to be used to transport the haul
Although those responsible fled under the cover of the darkness
proceedings have been set in motion to discover their identity
These two operations come as a result of the surveillance operation set up by the Tax Agency to control illegal trafficking
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Race One: Oriol Oliver won the opening moto with rookie
Salvador Perez second who is already looking comfortable on the 250cc machine
Adria Monne Viles was third with Samuel Nilsson fourth
Daniela Guillen was in action as she prepares for WMX and was an impressive sixth
Race Two: Oliver had another strong race to win both moto’s but Samuel Nilsson had a much better race
The Triumph rider was able to close right up to Oliver but the latter held on to take the victory
Adria Monne Viles was third yet again with Perez fourth
Guillen was seventh – another strong ride
Representatives of the Real Sociedad de Carreras de Caballos de Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Sanlúcar's Royal Society of Horseracing) have held a meeting at the regional ministry for Culture and Sport to present all the documentation included in the dossier that makes a case to Unesco
They are seeking for this event held every summer on Sanlúcar's La Pileta beach in Cadiz province to be declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by Unesco
The dossier presented includes the approval given in a full meeting of the town council of Sanlúcar for this proposal and the support of other interested parties and governing bodies
Such support includes the backing of Spain's senate
the Andalusian parliament and other town councils
as well as different groups and associations from all walks of life
All have shown "their full support" for the candidacy
as noted in the document by the racing society making the case
responsible for the department of cataloguing and inventorising historical heritage applications at the regional ministry
were the ones on Tuesday to welcome the president of Sanlúcar's Royal Society of Horseracing Rafael Hidalgo
managing director José Manuel Romero and the writer
journalist and ambassador for these horse races
who has also been the person in charge of compiling all the documentation included in the proposal
this dossier submitted to the Junta is full of different audiovisual archives showing the essence of these historic horse races on the beaches of Sanlúcar
which have been held for 179 years and which have already been declared a Festival of International Tourist Interest
as well as being awarded the Gold Medal of Andalucía
Once the regional government has given its approval to the dossier
it will be the regional sports and culture ministry itself that will present it to the ministry of culture of the Spanish government
which is the body responsible for submitting the documentation to Unesco
The Sanlúcar horse races are held every year during the month of August
divided into two rounds of three days each
with their dates adapted to the tidal calendar as the races must coincide with a good low tide
In 1997 they were declared a Festival of International Tourist Interest
as everyone said when Sanlucar de Barrameda was voted Spanish city of gastronomy for 2022
The crown has been a long time coming for this salt-stained
baroque town of churches and wineries at the mouth of the Guadalquivir — a sultry
sensual place in the far southwest of the country
so don’t come expecting foams and gels garnished with Michelin stars
What you’ll find instead is a town with a passionate gastronomic ecosystem
and ingredients so good that it’s near impossible to eat badly
Sanlucar is famed for seafood such as clamsALAMYJust 15 miles from Jerez de la Frontera
Sanlucar de Barrameda is triple-blessed — by geography
No one is sure how this settlement dating from the late Bronze Age got its name
but the most plausible theory — as explained by Padre Ignacio at the Church of Nuestra Señora de la O
where Columbus and Magellan prayed for fair winds and fortune — is that it’s not to do with a saint
The name “Sanlucar” is thought to derive from a corruption of “locus sanctus” (Latin for holy place)
and “Barrameda” from an Arab word for a navigation channel
It is the Barrameda that gave Sanlucar its bonanza
literally; as the Guadalquivir silted up and galleons inbound from the Spanish Main grew bigger and heavier
the port of Bonanza — a couple of miles upstream from the river mouth — was where the loot was unloaded onto barges for transfer to Seville
Flamingos near SanlucarALAMYAmong those treasures were potatoes
brought from the new world and probably tasted for the first time in Europe in Sanlucar
All took happy root in their new home in the saline marsh gardens known as the navazo
but none more so than the spud variety now known as the spunta
Soft sand offers less resistance than clay soil
while the salinity causes the potatoes to produce more starch and thus makes them sweeter
Ease of harvesting means the skins remain intact
The finest expression of the spunta is in papas aliñas con melva
sliced and doused while warm with olive oil
The rich sediment carried seawards by the Guadalquivir feeds the langostino de Sanlucar
a unique species of prawn harvested from just nine fishing grounds off the coast of the Doñana National Park
On Sundays hungry Sanluqueños and day-tripping Jerezanos descend on the river beach and promenade of the Bajo de Guia to spend slow
chatty afternoons devouring this king of prawns
chocos (cuttlefish) and zamburiñas (scallops)
The river beach at Bajo de GuiaALAMYThe difference between a good prawn and a magnificent one is in the cooking
and locals concur that the most magnificent of all are served at Fernando Bigote’s Casa Bigote
hidden down an alleyway between the Poma and Paco Secundino restaurants
Here Fernando Hermoso prepares a brine of ice water and salt before putting prawns into a pan of boiling water; when the pot returns to the boil
he removes the crustaceans and drops them into the brine
thus arresting the cooking process and keeping the prawns juicy
What you drink with the dish is the third reason why Sanlucar has belatedly become Spain’s city of gastronomy
whitewashed warehouses orientated so that their open gables are exposed to the west winds; within them are stacks of American oak barrels up to 14 high
They’re full of the must from the palomino grape that makes manzanilla sherry
It’s a complex process — wind- borne yeasts are blown into these air-cooled bodegas to form a thick layer on the surface of the maturing wine
and when this is tapped for bottling it is replenished from the barrel immediately above
which is then topped up from the next barrel up
By some miracle either is a perfect — and I mean perfect — match for those prawns
the main ingredient in the local tagarninas stewGETTY IMAGESTragically the sun (which shines for 320 days a year here)
the smell of the orange trees and even the chatter of Sanlucar are all so integral to manzanilla’s bouquet that it really only works here
The bottles I’ve brought home tasted only of wistfulness
but that said you should invest in a decent bottle of PX
begins on the bar-lined Plaza del Cabildo and kicks off with the crunchy prawn fritter known as the tortillita de camarones
Save these prawn crackers for a late-night grease hit and begin instead with the snails in garlic at Bar La Gitana if they’re in season (April to June); otherwise
look for the carrilleras en salsa (pig cheeks) at Taberna Cabildo
La Cerveceria Internacional on Plaza de los Cisnes does an exquisite plate of fried local potatoes in a secret beer sauce that works well with a side order of ortiguillas — battered nettles
which you should visit for the tagarninas (golden thistle stew) and its terrific cellar of Marco de Jerez wines
remember the other ingredients that arrived here from the Americas
Their contribution to the local cuisine is the veranillo — a recipe right out of the navazos in which tomatoes and peppers are quickly sautéed with garlic
bay leaf and saffron then deglazed with manzanilla
fish or whatever else you might have caught
simmer until reduced and serve with a glass of
because visitor numbers are expected to be high this year
The big events are carnival (from February 24 to March 1); the Manzanilla Fair (from May 17 to 22); the spectacular crossing of the Guadalquivir by El Rocio pilgrims (on June 1); and the horse racing on the beach (throughout August)
An Iberian lynxALAMYDoñana boat tripA two-and-a-half-hour boat trip from the dock at the Bajo de Guia takes you across the Guadalquivir before turning upstream to land in the national park, where you transfer to an all-terrain vehicle for a tour of the pinewoods, dunes and marshlands. This ecosystem is home to the Iberian lynx, imperial eagle, flamingos and tortoises (from £25; donanavisitas.es)
The Barrio Alto church where Columbus and Magellan came to be blessed is built
it’s all Catholic gilt within — especially the magnificent Chapel of San Sebastian
paid for by the customs chief and new world speculator Agustin de Zarate
Climb the bell tower for views across the Guadalquivir to Doñana National Park (£2; Plaza Condes de Niebla 1)
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Race One: Jose Butron used all of his experience and speed to win the first race
Ruben Fernandez had to fight his way through the pack and was able to battle his way through to second
Gerard Congost was third with Ander Valentin fourth
Race Two: There was drama in the second moto
Fernandez was leading the way on his HRC Honda and looking to take the win
on lap eight he collided with a backmarker and then Jose Butron got caught up and hit the deck as well
Butron was able to remount and ended up taking the win – but it was a DNF for Fernandez
Ander Valentin ended up second with Congost another solid third
The local council in Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Cadiz province has joined the campaign for its horse racing event to be declared as being of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by Unesco. It has added a letter of support to the application to the world body being prepared by Sanlúcar's Royal Society of Horseracing. The letter has been formally signed by mayor Carmen Álvarez (Izquierda Unida political party).
In the letter issued by Álvarez, it mentioned that, way back in June 2016 at a full meeting of the council, all the municipal groups supported a proposal to declare these horse races as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, a list which includes customs that are "as universally recognised and at the same time so unique to us as flamenco."
Carmen Álvarez explained that "cultural heritage is not limited to monuments and collections of objects", but that it also includes "traditions or living expressions inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants." In this respect, she pointed out that "this is what the horse races on the beach represent for Sanlúcar, which, with their centuries-long history, have united several generations of people from Sanlúcar around this event that is so much our own."
This year, 2024, marks the 179th year of the horse races on the beaches of Sanlúcar, an event which has also been declared a Festival of International Tourist Interest since 1997. This event on the equestrian calendar will be divided into two rounds of racing lasting three days apiece, all in the month of August. Therefore, the first round of evening races will take place on the 14th, 16th and 17th of August and the second on the 28th, 29th and 30th.
As it is a natural racecourse, the approved dates are as always based on the tidal calendar, as race days have to coincide with a good low tide so that the horses can compete with sufficient shore and track on the beach.
Registered office Málaga, Avda. Dr. Marañón, 48.
For the last decade Spain has been spotlighting lesser-known towns or cities where impressive cuisine is created using local produce and flavours.
The first Capital Española de Gastronomía was chosen in 2012. It was Logroño, the capital of the province of La Rioja. Two provincial capitals in Andalucía have been given the title: Huelva in 2017 and Almeria in 2019. This year for the first time a small town was named as the Gastronomy Capital of Spain - Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Cadiz province.
Sanlúcar de Barrameda is located on the eastern bank of the Guadalquivir River, just before it flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Some historians believe that the city's name comes from the Latin Solis Lucus, which means 'forest area'. Others, however, see in it an allusion to San Lucas. It also seems proven that there is a connection to the Arabic words 'thaluq/shaluqa' ('Levant wind'), and 'bar almard' ('movable sandbank') which alludes to the sandbanks that form at the mouth of the Guadalquivir.
The town is divided into two areas: Barrio Alto (the upper district) and Barrio Bajo (lower district). Narrow streets with white façades lead to aristocratic palaces, such as the Palacio de Orleáns y Borbón or the Renaissance-style Palacio Ducal de Medina Sidonia. The sturdy castle, Castillo de Santiago, the 14th-century church, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la O, and the Santo Domingo convent are among the main tourist attractions.
Playa Bajo de Guía, Calzada, Las Piletas and Jara attract both locals and tourists. They are on the edge of the estuary, and that's why they are very quiet and without waves. Sanlúcar is also internationally known for the horse races that take place on the beach every summer. Meanwhile horse-drawn carts pass along the beach every day thus making the landscape more picturesque.
Visitors attracted to Sanlúcar as gastronomy capital, must take into account the local wines. In the 19th century, the area's economic activity was based on viticulture. Manzanilla is aged exclusively in Sanlúcar's cellars. This salty, fino-like sherry wine has been a protected designation of origin (Denominación de Origen Jerez) since 1964.
One of the best types of sherry is made from the native Palomino grape. The special characteristics of this wine are the result of the process of ageing. Pale in colour, with a characteristic acrid smell, this dry, light manzanilla is ideal to accompany pre-lunch appetisers, such as ham or prawns.
Fishing and seafaring were the most important sources of income in Sanlúcar in the Middle Ages. Unsurprisingly, this Andalusian town is known for its variety of traditional seafood dishes. Local shellfish includes the famous long-tailed 'langostinos de Sanlúcar'. These large prawns are protected as a local variety.
Working from the 'Lonja de Bonanza' (Sanlúcar's harbour), more than 50 fishing boats are dedicated to catching of this large and fleshy crustacean in shallow waters in the Gulf of Cadiz.
'Sanluqueña' cuisine in the form of tapas can be ordered in the always lively Plaza de Cabildo, encircled by numerous restaurants and busy bars. Seafood salads, shrimp fritters known as 'tortillitas de camarones', and potatoes with mackerel are star dishes. Clams (almejas and coquinas) can be selected directly from the raw produce in the glass-fronted counter.
Bajo de Guía, a fishing neighbourhood with views of fishing boats trailed by seagulls, is also a nice starting point to try the different types of seafood dishes. Fried sole (acedías), chocos (cuttlefish), seafood-fuelled stews and rice dishes such as 'arroz con pato' (rice with duck) and 'arroz caldoso' (brothy rice) are among Sanlúcar's star dishes.
Taberna Casa Bigote, located in the centre of Bajo de Guía, is normally rated in the Michelin Guide. Sanlúcar's famous sole (acedía) is especially recommended in this restaurant. Along the narrow streets of the Old Town, you can find a 'people's place' - El Colorao. The bar, founded roughly 50 years ago, has traditional charm, its history is told in the photographs of starlets, guitarists and matadors adorning the walls.
La Cigarrera, with its own sherry bodega, is one of the town's most atmospheric restaurants. When you go in you can immediately ask for Antonio, who cooks and manages.
“Sanlúcar de Barrameda is definitely the place to go, the place to dine and sample all the riches it has to offer. To discover the local gastronomy, I recommend my best fish and meat platters - 'pisto con huevo' (a ratatouille-style dish with eggs), prized king prawns 'langostinos de Sanlúcar', and cazuela de corvina (sea bass stew),” Antonio told SUR in English.
The chef can also accompany you to the dark corridors where the manzanilla matures. The wine served here comes from the cellar and the ingredients for the dishes from the old market (Mercado de Abastos), which is only 20 metres away. You can even buy what you like at the market and then bring it to Antonio's kitchen to 'transform' your fresh produce into tasty dishes.
Sanlúcar de Barrameda is a unique place to try 'alpisteras'. Alpisteras are one of the very simple Spanish pastries that are made from of just a few ingredients - egg yolks, flour and aniseed, and lemon juice with sugar for the icing. The name 'alpistera' could refer to the Alps with their snowy peaks, but in fact (like many other cakes in Andalucía) alpisteras come from Arabic cuisine.
The alpisteras are made in La Rondeña, a confectionery company with roots in Malaga province. The father of the current owner, Carmelo Jiménez, moved to Sanlúcar from Ronda to start his sweet business. In this elegant confectioners, located right in the centre of the town, you can buy many other cakes in pretty wrappers and packaging as a foodie souvenir.
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Spain’s major cities attract travelers looking to spend their days on foot—a change of pace from car-centric America
But a road trip through the countryside is well worth deviating from the urban trend
and it's one of the best ways to experience the slow ways and tastes of Spanish life—especially in the south of the country
tend to reveal your future dinner table offerings: citrus groves give way to seas of olive trees
budding vines splay out from heirloom wineries
and herds of goats and sheep accompany cars bumping along the roads
You could spend weeks leisurely exploring the region’s picturesque villages and gastronomic gems
But a four-day road trip—starting and ending in Seville—will give you a big bite of Andalusia you can really sink your teeth into
All listings featured in this story are independently selected by our editors
when you book something through our retail links
There’s nothing like springtime in southern Spain
and general joy abound as Andalusians settle into the longer days and tapas-filled late nights for which they’re known
stopping for breakfast at a roadside venta (you'll spot plenty)
Order a strong cafe con leche and a tostada entera completa—a hefty hunk of toast with locally-pressed olive oil
the humble fishing town known for its bone-dry sherry wine called manzanilla
a spectacular no-frills fish market where locals clamor for their pick of crustaceans
and thick filets of some of the most coveted bluefin tuna in the world
You’ll want to taste what you’re seeing, so walk to the main plaza and get an early spot at Casa Balbino
Fight your way to the bar and yell out your order in the best Spanish you can muster
You’re here for the tortitas de camarones: delicately thin crystal fritters loaded with whole baby shrimp
For the most coveted sherries, taste Mantúa restaurant’s collection in their distinctive wine-pairing dinner (reservations required)
The Michelin-starred menu led by Jerez native Israel Ramos artfully celebrates the town’s bounty down to the last drop and bite
which they converted into a seven-room bed and breakfast to accompany their personal apartment
Before a stroll through the charming old Jewish neighborhood, Santa Cruz, stop for lunch at Vermutería Yo Soy Tu Padre
Sip homemade vermouths and an exceptional selection of Spanish wines and snacks: the trifásico de ahumados
a luxurious mix of smoked fish and olive oil topped with lamb’s lettuce
Acclaimed Spanish guitarist and composer Manuel Muñoz Alcón
where the Guadalquivir River ‘says farewell’ to Andalusia
Initiated by his father “el tocador” (the guitar player) Isidro Muñoz
Manolo learned to passionately love the guitar
he assimilated its art and perfected it to the extent of becoming one of the best performers of the present time
he began to investigate and shape his unique conception and interpretation of flamenco music
A musician from the sensitive and lively people
faithful to the cultural heritage and to the precise call of the contemporary
Manolo Sanlúcar belonged to that small group of artists upon which nobody doubts when acknowledging their talent
Gifted with an exceptional musicality and a technique out of the ordinary
each of his recitals became a superb lesson in guitar
which never lost contact with improvisation and the direct spiritual communication with flamenco style
didn’t make of virtuosity a goal in itself
but praised it to convey deep emotional qualities
opened a new door to flamenco in the path of classical music and set up a full composite revelation
is a musical journey that the composer undertook through the world of bullfighting with themes where guitars and voices (a choir of strings
from the birth of the bull in the meadow (‘Nacencia’) to the triumphal appearance of the bullfighter through the big door (‘Prince’s Gate’)
follow harmoniously linked the moments of hope
he premiered in Malaga his symphonic poem “Aljibe”
The concert was with the Orquesta Ciudad de Málaga
Manolo was the Musical Director of the film “Sevillanas” by Carlos Saura
he composed and performed the soundtrack of the “La Enciclopedia Electrónica de Andalucia”
presented at the pavilion of Andalusia at the Expo 92
He was the composer of the Japanese documentary soundtrack about the Romería del Rocío
titled “Viva la Blanca Paloma”
The music was recorded in London with the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra
In November 1997 he was nominated as a member of the Real Academia Provincial de Bellas Artes de Cádiz
the Cádiz Provincial Council and the Sanlúcar de Barrameda City Council announced that they would publish the encyclopedia ‘La Guitarra Flamenca
The work is a compendium of flamenco music made throughout 15 years by maestro Manolo Sanlúcar
president of the Cádiz Provincial Council highlighted the career of Manolo Sanlúcar
named Favorite Son of the Province in 2016
as “an unquestionable figure of contemporary music at the international level and absolute reference in the study over the years of one of our great signs of identity such as flamenco
an effort that now crystallizes into an encyclopedia that deserves to see the light and spread”
Manolo Sanlúcar’ is an artistic-educational work about flamenco history
it is the result of 15 years of work and the participation of more than 40 artists
Available in audiovisual format and with the guitar as the conductor
it comprises the artistic exposition of flamenco genres or styles from the formal aspect of their canons
divided into three volumes; and a second book
each of which consists of an audiovisual chapter of 27-29 minutes in length
1988) Locura De Brisa y Trino (Mercury
Signing a portrait I did of Manolo- he said “Very good”
Please enter an answer in digits:five + eight =
The story of the first ship to circumnavigate the world
After losing the favour of King Manuel I of Portugal for his plan of reaching the Spice Islands by sailing westward from Europe
Magellan renounced his Portuguese nationality and offered his services to King Charles I of Spain
The Spanish monarch believed in him and his project
provided with ships and granted special powers and privileges
There is a version that authorities of Sanlúcar de Barrameda tried to prevent the Portuguese admiral from travelling
five ships and 270 men set sail to try to find a western sea route to the rich Spice Islands of Indonesia
they headed to West Africa and then to Brazil
Ferdinand Magellan was searching for a passage that would connect the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific
the expedition went down to Patagonia and found the strait that separates Tierra del Fuego and the tip of the South American continent
It took about six weeks to navigate the storm-battered sea passage
Only three vessels survived that endeavour
the first European explorer who reached the Pacific Ocean from the Atlantic
The "new" ocean received its "peaceful" name after the expedition crossed its waters finding them surprisingly calm
the men on the ships were not at all calm; their food had run out and they had to eat leather parts of the equipment so as not to die of hunger
In March 1521 the fleet dropped anchor first at the island of Guam
and later landed at the Philippine island of Cebu
situated about 400 miles from the Spice Islands - Magellan's destination
It is believed that the first local tribe was easily converted to Christianity and Magellan erected a large wooden cross on the shores of Cebu
At the same time the Cebu leader persuaded Magellan and his men to help him in his battle with a rival tribe on a neighbouring island
a poisoned arrow hit Ferdinand Magellan on Mactan Island
soon after this failed attempt at attacking the island
and the Europeans were lured into a trap where about 35 sailors were killed
From Cebu only two remaining vessels (they sank the third ship themselves) continued sailing to the Mollucas (the Spice Islands) where they loaded the hulls with the desired spice
The mission was completed and both the vessels were ready to return to Spain
back across the Pacific Ocean and disappeared
Juan Sebastián Elcano on his ship the Victoria decided to cross the Indian ocean
after passing along the Atlantic coast of Africa
landed at Sanlúcar de Barrameda with tales of a savage island in the East Indies
A few days later the vessel sailed about 70 kilometres further up the River Guadalquivir to reach Seville
thereby completing the first circuit of the globe
Sanlúcar de Barrameda is commemorating the 500th anniversary of the Magellan-Elcano voyage around the world
hosts the exhibition La I Vuelta al Mundo devoted to the world's first circumnavigation and the Fábrica de Hielo exhibition centre offers a general view of the legendary expedition with a replica of The Victoria
Various other events have been taking place during this special year in Sanlúcar de Barrameda
who moved from the North in pursuit of the country’s Southern air and sunlight
Their ultimate wish was to build a medium-sized
one-story house that invites a certain independence between its different rooms: those to be used daily and those reserved for guests
all images © Fernando Alda
Responding to its clients’ wishes, Sol89 Arquitectos (see more here) envisioned House with Two Wings as holding two distinct programs: everyday living spaces and less frequently used areas
‘These spaces can coexist in proximity but do not necessarily need direct connections’, explain lead architects Maria González and Juanjo López de la Cruz
This approach allows the program to fragment and articulate through outdoor spaces
the proposed residence is welcoming and accessible
expanding and incorporating the gaps between the constructed parts
The interior uses are divided into two wings
one facing west towards the Guadalquivir River and the other facing east towards the olive grove at the back of the property
These two wings unfold to embrace as much space as possible
‘The project explores the notion of span versus size: a modestly sized house that
covers much more space than it occupies,’ continue the architects.
Most of the new houses in the vicinity have a single platform to tame the slope
and from the approach at the foot of the slope
House with Two Wings reveals and celebrates the terrain on which it stands
The initial action involves establishing three successive terraced levels that adapt to the land’s profile
The highest level accommodates two rooms for sporadic use
a lower platform houses a winding courtyard that serves as the access point to different rooms and the daily living area
which doubles the interior space and expands it toward the horizon
Sol89 Arquitectos placed at the lowest level a swimming pool
meeting the terrain and following the direction towards the river.
the residence nestles at the base of a hill in Southern Spain’s Sanlúcar de Barrameda
The stepped terraces and the volumes housing the program follow two different construction logics
The terraces result from a base adapted to the topography
where horizontal floors and vertical walls are made from in-situ concrete
This molded floor reconciles the land with the house and tames the earth
constructed with load-bearing ceramic walls and external insulation; these evoke an essential lintel-based construction
their height reduced through flat sections to create more inviting intermediate spaces between them. In addition to the two volumes holding the daily living area and the sporadically used rooms
a third volume housing the bathroom extends over the access courtyard and rotates in relation to the parallel alignment of the terraces
influenced by the views towards the Guadalquivir River
constructed with load-bearing ceramic walls
the project incorporates two independant wings
lead architects: Maria González, Juanjo López de la Cruz – Sol89 Arquitectos | @sol89arq
collaborating architects: Elena González
technical architect: Cristóbal Galocha
structure: Duarte y Asociados
construction: Asitec. Construcciones y Reforma
photography: Fernando Alda | @fernadoaldafotografo
happening now! partnering with antonio citterio, AXOR presents three bathroom concepts that are not merely places of function, but destinations in themselves — sanctuaries of style, context, and personal expression.
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From top-notch dining and vibrant cities to sun-soaked beaches and idyllic islands
there’s a reason Spain is Brits’ favourite holiday spot
When the UK shut down for the Covid-19 pandemic
one country was on people’s minds more than any other: Spain
and above all the vibrancy and warmth of the people
more than 18 million holidaymakers from the UK chose to visit Spain
With magnificent historic cities and spectacular national parks
as well as endless gold sand-lined coastline
Spain’s appeal also lies in its sheer diversity
Prices on the coast and in the islands are inevitably higher then
although local festivals can push up accommodation costs
holidays are generally more reasonably priced
The Balearic Islands remain one of the most popular destinations for British tourists; Mallorcan authorities are trying hard to clean up the largest island’s image by taking steps such limiting alcohol served as part of all-inclusive holiday packages
Mallorca has pretty inland towns backed by steep mountains
Clubbers’ favourite Ibiza has seen recent upscale hotel openings
and tiny Formentera’s white-sand bays are even more untouched
Still a favourite weekend getaway for Brits, cosmopolitan Barcelona is worth exploring for more than its nightlife
Climb Montjuic to the National Art Museum of Catalonia
which has a Turner exhibition until 11 September
and wander up Passeig de Gracia to see the extraordinary Gaudí buildings – Casa Batlló has night-time visits which include a rooftop concert – and
the soaring Sagrada Familia (be sure to book tickets in advance)
Then take a trip to a Costa Brava beach town: isolated fishing village Cadaqués
a modernist resort with a lively gay scene
Madrid may not be as cool as its Catalonian competitor
but the Spanish capital has a more down-to-earth feel
head to barrios (neighbourhoods) like hip Malasaña and Chueca: stroll down bustling Gran Via
looking out for the iconic winged victory statue atop the Edificio Metropolis
Then take in the panoramic view from the Circulo de Bellas Artes roof terrace bar (Negroni optional)
or head to Plaza Mayor and tapas at nearby Mercado de San Miguel
Art-lovers shouldn’t miss the three main museums: the Prado
Reina Sofia (home to Picasso’s searing and ever-relevant portrait of war
So many Costa del Sol holidaymakers still hop off the plane without even stopping in Malaga
Big mistake – in terms of culture and gastronomy
from street art and the Contemporary Art Centre to big-hitting museums like the Carmen Thyssen
Picasso (Paula Rego show until 21 August) and Pompidou
the city more than holds its own against rival Andalucian metropolises
Weekend street markets in seafront Muelle Uno
trendy Soho and cultural hub La Termica offer local artisan and retro pieces
This year’s Gastronomic Capital of Spain is Sanlúcar de Barrameda, a charming coastal town in south-western Cadiz province
two of which are a match made in heaven: manzanilla sherry
and tortillitas de camarones (thin shrimp fritters)
The third is Ferdinand Magellan’s expedition
which set out from here just over 500 years ago – only one ship returned
and became the first to circumnavigate the globe
Andalucia is renowned for its fabulous food and cultural riches
but head north to neighbouring Extremadura and you’ll find great gastronomy
Iberian pork from free-range purebred pigs is a stand-out ingredient (chef Jose Pizarro is from Extremadura)
as is Extremaduran cheese – try sheep’s milk Torta del Casar
explore Roman ruins and visit the superb museum
while the charming medieval city of Caceres has narrow
cubist Helga de Alvear Contemporary Art Museum
and other non-peninsula holiday mainstay the Canary Islands
Off the coast of Galicia in north-west Spain
this 7km-long protected national park in the Vigo estuary is reminiscent of the Scilly Isles
with no cars and broad sweeps of white sand with turquoise waters
are linked by the famous Rodas beach; the third
Visitor numbers are strictly controlled to preserve this natural paradise: first you need to apply for authorization in advance; then book your boat trip from Vigo
camp there for at least one night (permit needed)
unspoiled beauty – and spectacular hiking through yellow broom and pink rockrose
You don’t have to be religious to be awed by the Semana Santa processions in Seville – statues carried aloft on pasos (floats)
accompanied by hooded figures and brass bands
criss-cross the city as they make stately progress
Walking around San Sebastian
is one of the best ways to spend an evening
The beautiful Basque seaside city is packed with atmospheric spots: try red pepper stuffed with spider crab or a lamb skewer at Gandarias
Said to have started as a food fight during a religious celebration in the 1940s, La Tomatina, in the Valencian town of Buñol
is now an international festival attended by 22,000 people (you need a ticket to take part)
From 11am until 12 midday on the last Wednesday in August
people fling over-ripe tomatoes at each other
White T-shirts are worn for maximum visual effect
and goggles help you to see through all the mushed fruit
The best way to get around Spain is by train – the high-speed AVE
Seville and Malaga (new service connecting the Costa del Sol’s capital with Granada launched in April)
and French SNCF-owned Ouigo – now also serve the Madrid-Barcelona line
with Avlo offering services to Valencia too
They will soon reach southern cities like Seville and Malaga
easyJet and Ryanair all offer domestic flights within Spain
It’s possible to keep your carbon footprint down and travel to Spain by train
arriving the same day: take the Eurostar to Paris
then change to the TGV high-speed train which goes to Figueres
You can also take the ferry, operated by Brittany Ferries
from Portsmouth to either Santander or Bilbao
This is good option if you want to take your car
The quickest and cheapest way to get to Spain from the UK is to fly: Iberia
Jet2 and Ryanair all offer routes from UK airports
Check AENA for the latest information on individual Spanish airports
Avoiding the high season in July and August will save you plenty of money – half-term in May or October is much cheaper
All-inclusive hotels will also help the budget; without a package
being flexible on your travel day will cut flight costs
And a home exchange is the ultimate budget-winner
It varies enormously throughout the country
winter is mild in the south and on the Mediterranean coast
with short but intense rainstorms in many areas
Summer is hot in the south and central plateau
The Canaries islands are mild all year round
while the Balearics have cooler winters and hotter summers
with the winter/summer switch at the same time)
Best family-friendly hotels in Mallorca
Best hotels in Tenerife
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King Felipe and Queen Letizia had a busy Friday with four engagements
The couple attended the closing of the Scientific Congress commemorating the 50th anniversary of Doñana National Park
visited Doñana National Park and Parish of Our Lady of the Assumption on the occasion of the Mariano del Rocío Jubilee Year and spent time in San Lúcar de Barrameda
Their first event was at the closing of the Scientific Congress commemorating the 50th anniversary of Doñana National Park at the Salvador Távora Theatre
The ceremony began with the screening of “Breathe Doñana” before discussions regarding the past and future of the park commenced
the King and Queen paid a visit to the Parish of Our Lady of the Assumption on the occasion of the Mariano del Rocío Jubilee Year
Their Majesties met with members of the public outside the parish before heading into the building alongside members of the clergy where they had a quiet moment in front of the image of the Virgen del Rocío while a choir performed the Salve Rociera
Felipe and Letizia then fulfilled the tradition of touching the mantle of the Virgin
King Felipe and Queen Letizia’s third event was visiting the Doñana National Park in Huelva
The park houses a variety of ecosystems with unique biodiversity in Europe
Several bird species are in the park including some endangered species like the Spanish imperial eagle and Iberian lynx
Their Majesties spent time at the Biological Station and the area of Vera del Puntal where they viewed the park through telescopes and binoculars
They next travelled in an off-road vehicle to the Centre of the Ansares to view the different ecosystems in the park
They concluded their time at the park at the mouth of the Guadalquivir River where they boarded the “La Olga” barge headed toward Sanlúcar de Barrameda
the royal couple arrived at the Olaso Pier to visit Bajo de Guía in the Cadiz town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda
and they did a walkabout to meet the Spanish people
King Felipe unveiled a commemorative plaque to mark the V Centenary of the First Circumnavigation of the World of Magellan and Elcano while the Queen looked on
set sail and completed the first circumnavigation of the planet
and his duties were taken over by Juan Sebastián Elcano
Only 18 of the 234 men who set out on the trip returned alive
Thousands of horses and people crossed the Guadalquivir river from Sanlúcar de Barrameda
This was the start of the pilgrimage or 'romería'
known as the Camino de San José (St Joseph's Way)
This annual excursion is one of Andalucía's most important cultural events
However it is less known than the Romería de El Rocío
which attracts nearly a million people from across Andalucía
What the Camino de San José and the Romería de El Rocio have in common is that both paths lead through the countryside of the Doñana National Park to the tiny village of El Rocío
pilgrims gether together united by their religious devotion
in comparison to El Rocío there are no bright traditional costumes on the Camino de San José
A large number of the horseback pilgrims wear the traditional 'jinete' outfit - which includes shirts
and rainproof clothes with dominant brown and green colours
though others prefer the image of a 'bandolero' - a typical Andalusian bandit
Although the Camino de San José is much smaller than El Rocío
the number of participants is still high - more than 3,000 horses and more than 70,000 pilgrims
Most of them had registered and applied to take part since the end of January
However on Thursday last week additional people were still buying ferry tickets with a broad range of prices: a foot pilgrim paid five euros; one on horseback
The maximum price was 500 euros - for a tractor towing a wagon
The Camino de San José was the first mass event to be held since the pandemic
and the festive ambience was especially appreciated
both by local participants and foreign guests - from Germany
The atmosphere had inspired numerous foreigners
who went to the beach of Sanlúcar to join in a traditional Andalusian pilgrimage
More will follow: the Romería de la Virgen de la Cabeza will be held in Andújar (Jaén province) in April; and the El Rocío pilgrimage starts at the beginning of June
Roglic attacks but crashes as Evenepoel punctures in final 3km
Behind, red jersey Remco Evenepoel (QuickStep-AlphaVinyl) suffered a puncture
meaning that he would be handed the same time as the main peloton when the commissaires reviewed the finish
Roglič led the five-man move all the way through the finale in Tomares
dragging them into the finishing straight with eight seconds in hand on the bunch
what looked like a successful day’s work for Roglič took on a different guise in the closing metres
when he crashed heavily after a touch of wheels with Wright
but he sat at the roadside in some distress after the finish
He was still there when Evenepoel came home almost three minutes later following his puncture
and the youngster went to check on Roglic before making his way to the podium
After a wait, the commissaires confirmed that Evenepoel had been awarded the same time as the peloton, meaning that he limited his losses on Roglic to eight seconds. In the overall Vuelta standings
“I wasn't in the best position because we did a recon of the final yesterday
in the last 4 or 5km so I lost some positions and I wanted to move up on a steep bump
I felt I had a flat tyre,” Evenepoel said
“I'm happy that the 3km rule exists otherwise I would have lost a lot of time today
I heard that Primož crashed so I really hope that he's OK and that he can continue the race.”
was a resounding winner in the sprint for the stage
The Dane has all but secured the green jersey thanks to his second stage win of the race
even if the day will be remembered for the late drama involving Roglic
Pedersen had not anticipated Roglic’s move
“Ackermann was straight on his wheel
I hope it’s not too bad so he can keep contending for the victory of the Vuelta.”
After the final rest day of the race, the Vuelta caravan assembled on the left bank of the Guadalquivir River for the start of stage 16 in the sherry-producing town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Maxim Van Gils (Lotto Soudal) was absent after testing positive for COVID-19 on Monday
while Esteban Chaves (EF Education-EasyPost) also withdrew before the start
but the rest of the 142 riders in the peloton were given a clean bill of health to continue in the race
Not many riders were much inclined to race
in the opening kilometres of a long and largely flat stage at this juncture in the Vuelta
Ander Okamika (Burgos-BH) and Luis Angel Maté (Euskaltel-Euskadi) attacked more or less as soon as the flag was dropped outside of Sanlúcar and they were given plenty of early leeway by the bunch
They quickly built a lead of four minutes before Cofidis and Trek-Segafredo set about policing the head of the peloton on behalf of Coquard and Pedersen
There was precious little change in that status for most of the long
where the only statistical interest was provided by Maté
who has pledged to plant a tree for every kilometre he spends off the front on this Vuelta
The break’s lead dropped to a minute or so by the time they reached the intermediate sprint in Alcala del Río with 28km to go
where Pedersen cruised through in third place to add another 15 points to his advantage in the green jersey standings
Okamika and Maté’s day-long adventure came to an end with 14km or so remaining
just as the terrain grew a little hillier on the approach to Tomares
Evenepoel’s QuickStep-AlphaVinyl squad positioned the red jersey towards the front from there on
with Ineos Grenadiers and Jumbo-Visma also moving up
The pace on the short unclassified ascent with 12km to go was brisk but not intense enough to burn off the fast men, though Kaden Groves (BikeExchange-Jayco) saw his hopes of victory torpedoed when he punctured over the other side
The stage took on altogether different guise inside the final 3km
The combination of that surprise effort and Evenepoel’s puncture seemed to be tilting the balance of this race back in Roglic’s favour
but the picture is muddled after his crash in the finishing straight
who had led the break into the closing metres
was drifting back when he appeared to make contact with Fred Wright
I was blocked by Primoz and I think that’s what caused the crash,” Wright said
“I think it was just a racing incident
I was coming out and around and he was coming backwards
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This Andalucian jewel offers modern restaurants and inviting Sherry bars
covers all production except for manzanilla; Manzanilla-Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Main soils more than 90% classified as Jerez Superior
Visit sherry.org and turismojerez.com
Jerez de la Frontera is the archetypal city of wine
Nowhere do cellars and wine jostle citizens in quite the same way
it’s packed with bodegas – lofty ceilinged wine warehouses whose brand names are emblazoned in huge black letters on white walls with their distinctive yellow edging
Every pavement has its bars with tables made from blackened Sherry butts
Climb to the highest point of the hilltop that is Jerez
to the viewpoint at the top of the fortified Alcazar
and you can see vineyards stretching to the horizons
In the sun the chalky white albariza soil glints brilliantly
patches of gold are visible where wheat has been planted to replace the vines
Across the nearby hills there are the inevitable wind farms
capturing the wind that comes racing up from the sea
There’s no better time to visit Jerez than in spring
The weather is warm and the tree-lined streets are starting to reveal the red of the bougainvillea and the electric purple of the jacaranda
The city is busy sprucing itself up for the Feria
one of Andalucia’s great spring fairs (10-17 May in 2015)
In 2014 Jerez was European Capital of Wine
This is a city that has to walk the tightrope between the tourist clichés of flamenco and bullfighting
and the serious business of making and marketing one of the world’s great wines
It has learned the lessons from other successful centres of wine tourism
and if you have a special interest then let them know
Start your visits with one of the smaller ones
partly because it’s more straightforward to understand the processes and the geography of Sherry-making
partly because it can be much more personal
Fernando de Castilla (fernandodecastilla.com) is a great introduction to Jerez with its traditional cellar
Another gloriously traditional cellar is El Maestro Sierra (maestrosierra), again with excellent wines. Founded in 1830, it has been run since 1976 by Doña Pilar Plá Pechovierto, now with her daughter Carmen. Bodegas Tradición (bodegastradicion.es) is renowned for its focus on mature Sherries
it also worth a visit for its collection of Spanish paintings
Next door to the Alcazar is González Byass (gonzalezbyass.com)
home to Tío Pepe fino and much else besides
It receives more than 200,000 visitors a year and has developed a diversified range of visitor tours
especially if you are interested in a food-matching session
the company won an international award for Best Visitor Centre in 2014
It’s also worth making time for a trip to Lustau (lustau.es)
Its tours include a 12-wine tasting with samples from the three Sherry towns – Jerez
El Puerto and Sanlúcar – to highlight the differences
next on your must-do list is enjoying tapas
each one potentially with better food (or sometimes worse) than the last
unless you find a bar that is exceptionally good
Check that the food looks fresh and hasn’t been sitting around curling at the corners
Top of my list are traditional tortilla (potato omelette)
tortilla de camarones (shrimp fritters – a speciality of Cadiz)
Jerez has more to offer beyond bodegas and tapas: churches and cloisters abound; take a bicycle and wine tour (biwi.es); or there are museums for clocks, archaeology and carriages. See a show by the magnificent Andalucian horses (realescuela.org), or visit them at their stud in less formal surroundings (yeguadacartuja.com)
you’re not far from a chilled glass of fino
Make time to spend a day or two exploring the faded glory of the old city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, one of the region’s other Sherry towns, along with El Puerto de Santa María. Here, the big bodegas to visit are Hidalgo-La Gitana (lagitana.es) and Barbadillo (barbadillo.com)
For food, head to the bars at Plaza del Cabildo – Balbino (casabalbino.com) and La Gitana are famous – and Bajo de Guía by the river, where top choices are Poma (restaurantepoma.com) and Casa Bigote. At Bigote’s restaurant next door (restaurantecasabigote.com)
get a table by the window overlooking the river and the ferry to the nature reserve of Coto Doñana (info@visitasdoñana.com)
Finally, it’s not easy to shop for Sherries in the region, except at the bodegas. Taberna der Guerrita on the corner of Calle San Salvador and Calle Rubiños is an exception (guerrita.es).
Fly directly (or via Madrid) to Jerez, and then take a train or taxi to Jerez de la Frontera, around 5km away. Alternatively, fly to Seville and catch a train or drive from there (90km).
https://www.nytimes.com/1986/03/30/travel/fare-of-the-country-langostinos-prized-shrimp-of-andalusia.htmlShare full articleAdvertisement
Mention the langostinos of Sanlucar de Barrameda to an Andaluz far from his native land and watch his eyes come alive with pride and longing
lively discourse describing the succulence of this prized shellfish
after which the listener is ready to hop the next plane for Spain
Such is the mystique surrounding these langostinos
members of the shrimp family found near the seaside village of Sanlucar de Barrameda in western Andalusia
Langostinos are not what the French call langoustines (a lobster-like crustacean known as cigala in Spain) but prawns
a variety of shrimp that spends part of its life in fresh water
Prawns are not necessarily larger than shrimp
with longer legs and a subtly different flavor
Langostinos range in size from small to extra large
but connoisseurs - in that category you will find nearly every resident of Sanlucar de Barrameda and the nearby cities of Jerez
Puerto de Santa Maria and Cadiz - agree that the smaller ones are the more desirable because of their rich yet delicate taste
To this writer langostinos of any size are a special treat
Langostinos are almost always eaten after simply being boiled - changing from light gray to rosy pink - then cooled and served in their shells
(The juice that bursts forth when the diner separates the head is ambrosia to langostino fanciers.) Those who know their langostinos would not dream of contaminating them with a sauce
Says Fernando Hermoso Marin of El Bigote Restaurant
which serves some of the finest langostinos in Sanlucar: ''We only cook them in sauce when they are damaged
Langostinos are sometimes netted with crabs that nip them and perhaps dislodge a leg or crack the shell
Our diners would never pay the price of langostinos in their shell unless they were in perfect condition
but that is no matter.'' For a Sanluqueno there is only one drink to accompany langostinos - chilled manzanilla
tangy sherry produced only in Sanlucar de Barrameda
It is hard to imagine a better combination of flavors
Although langostinos are scarce and their price so high that they are probably the most expensive creature to come from Spanish waters
even topping the spiny lobsters and rare goose barnacles (percebes)
Spaniards of the region would almost rather forgo life's bare necessities than renounce langostinos
where they are traditionally eaten as a first course
langostinos sell from about $17.50 a pound when relatively plentiful in spring and summer to more than $35 a pound in the off season
A Spaniard will easily consume a pound before going on to his main course
and quoting the price in dollars does not convey the real price in the eyes of a Spaniard
who for $30 could enjoy an entire meal - fine wine included - at one of the country's best restaurants
Langostinos at one time were found in abundance and sold for pennies
but even then they were considered a delicacy
feudal lords of the region for centuries (their palace still commands the heights of the seignorial upper neighborhoods of Sanlucar) served langostinos
chilled in snow from the nearby mountains of Ronda
Fishing and ocean commerce have been the livelihood of Sanlucar since at least the 15th century
when the second Duke of Medina Sidonia allowed the shoreline of Sanlucar - known as the lower neighborhood (Bajo de Guia) to be populated by fishermen
referring to a pre-Christian shrine said to have been situated here) and its second name
which once played havoc with shipping (the area has since been dredged)
Because of Sanlucar's easy access to Seville
Sanlucar de Barrameda was also a key town in the discovery and settlement of America
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The coast around Cadiz is enjoying a foodie revolution
thanks to a growing number of cool and innovative beach restaurants
The Basques have Juan Mari and Elena Arzak, the Catalans Ferran Adrià
and Andalucía has “el Chef del Mar” Ángel León – chefs who have put their region’s cuisine on the world food map
View image in fullscreenThe 46-year-old León is a celebrity in Spain. His fascination with sea rice and fish scales and his restaurant Aponiente in El Puerto de Santa María have attracted attention to the Costa de la Luz
It is the only restaurant in Andalucía to hold three Michelin stars and has made people think again about the town on the Cádiz coast that
Perhaps efecto Ángel León is responsible for the recent proliferation of competitively good restaurants and beach clubs
the northern half of the Costa de la Luz – the 50-mile string of traditional seaside towns running from Sanlúcar de Barrameda south to Cádiz and on to Chiclana de la Frontera and Conil – is very much de moda
View image in fullscreenConil de la Frontera
Photograph: robertharding/Alamy“The gastronomy here has become more cosmopolitan since Aponiente opened,” says León
tartars everywhere … although innovative new restaurants are keeping the essence of the traditional seafood classics alive too.” León is also credited with a renewed interest in products that were considered “low value” like sardines and mackerel
pale sand beaches backed by pinsapar (Spanish fir) forests
this coast has always been a prime holiday destination for Spanish families
From Sanlúcar to Conil there are more blue flags – 26 – than anywhere in Andalucía
But it has remained below the radar for foreign visitors who visit Sanlúcar and Cádiz
then leave – often for Vejer and Tarifa with their dunes and cosmopolitan communities further south
In Chipiona, a 15-minute drive south of Sanlúcar, a white wood and glass box, Awa
at the foot of Spain’s tallest lighthouse on Playa de Regla
exemplifies the area’s new style of chiringuito (beach bar)
is a reminder that poor children used to be brought here for the beneficially high iodine content of the water
Now people come for Awa’s sea anemones on guacamole with turmeric and soy-cured egg yolk
he said: “The revolution has arrived in my town
with something more innovative … The rest will be forced to improve.”
View image in fullscreenExperimental seafood chef Ángel León
AKA ‘El Chef del Mar’They have in a way: there’s hardly a rickety table
plastic chair or €2.50 plate of fried dogfish to be found on this coast today; they’ve been replaced by stylish beach bars with Balinese beds serving artfully presented Asian-influenced seafood
The 19th-century tidal mill looks unreal, like a film setThere’s still variety: Chipiona’s Playa de las Tres Piedras has the full gamut from cool with cocktails to Hawaiian surfer vibe. The top choice is La Manuela Cocina Copas
for its high-end beach fare (langoustine gyozas
lots of tuna) and its joyful white-and-blue building
further south down the coast on the outskirts of El Puerto
the 19th-century tidal mill looks like a film set and is a magnet for food critics and top chefs from around the world
View image in fullscreenA dish at Puerto Escondido restaurant. Photograph: Pablo TerronWhen Alain Ducasse came to this coast, he ate at La Taberna del Chef del Mar
scaled down to match the tastes and budget of normal folk
The menu includes some classics – plankton risotto (€27) and marine charcuterie (€24) – and some gastronomic japes – patatas bravas that are really red prawns
Tucked up a sidestreet (Calle Puerto Escondido
with basic tables and a black skull’n’fish bones logo
but craftily sophisticated inside – like the food
Right opposite, in a 17th-century house and courtyard, chef Pablo Terrón runs the relaxed and eclectically stylish Puerto Escondido
like the marinated fish served on a half lime (€3.50)
The tartar de carabinero con erizo del mar (€10.50) is not to be missed
A 10-minute walk along the Guadalete River is Tohqa (Calle Los Moros
Housed in a former convent with leafy courtyard and punky street-art-style murals
they offer two fascinating tasting menus (€55 and €80) ending in a trademark dessert of onion and cream
Further along again, above Vistahermosa beach, there’s Ramé
set up by three friends in their 20s (including the chef Javi Navarro
featured trips and local tips for your next break
as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays
View image in fullscreenTohqa restaurant“There’s undoubtably an Ángel León effect,” says Terrón
“but there are several factors behind the rise in the number and quality of restaurants
along with more people discovering the stretch of coast and its great climate and produce.”
He’s one of a number of young gaditano chefs returning home with skills embellished by working away
says: “El Puerto ha vuelto!” (El Puerto is back!)
Standouts are the anemones with algae and oyster sauce and the bao bun of inky chipironesThe beautiful city of Cádiz across the bay is meanwhile enjoying its own gastronomic renaissance
with Código de Barra scooping a first Michelin star
But the ultimate in beach food is found further south
On the outskirts of Chiclana, Poblado de Sancti Petri comprises a couple of bars, a small beach with kayaks for rent, a boat that goes to the offshore castle, a huge naked Hercules statue, a small stage where Rod Stewart recently performed, and a restaurant, La Casa del Farero
and tables on the terrace are virtually on the water
View image in fullscreenBeef cheek brioche at Feduchy Conil, sister restaurant of the Feduchy Playa beach bar. Photograph: Julio GonzalezChiclan has one of the most spectacular beaches in Spain: La Barossa, a five-mile stretch of white sand. The restaurant creating a buzz, El Árbol Tapas
but it’s nearby and easy to spot because of the queues
its Costa de la Luz-Asian fusion tapas and raciones are created for summer days
Standouts are the saam of anemones with algae and oyster sauce (€2.80)
crunchy strips of langoustine with basil in a dipping sauce (€5.60) and the bao bun of inky chipirones (€3.90)
Read moreOn the edge of Chiclana, where the town gives way to fields and wild beach, is El Cuartel del Mar
it’s an old military base transformed into a dreamy place to while away the day by the design team behind the Azotea del Círculo and the Picalagartos Sky Bar in Madrid
You can just about wiggle your toes in the sand while enjoying ajo blanco con sardina ahumada (€14) and a tarantelo de atún (€26)
On Playa La Fontanilla in the next town, Conil, just a few metres of sand and a kiosk selling buckets and spades separate the family-run La Fontanilla restaurant, founded in the 1960s, and the strikingly modern Feduchy Playa (sister to Feduchy Concil, a few streets back from the beach), set up by three young friends
People talk about a food revolution on the Costa de la Luz
but nothing’s been lost: it’s just got better
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Celebrating the Annual Bank Holiday of Virgen de la Asunción in Spain
Spain comes alive with festivities as it celebrates the Annual Bank Holiday of Virgen de la Asunción
also known as the Feast of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary
This significant holiday holds deep religious and cultural meaning for the Spanish people
bringing communities together to honour the Virgin Mary’s ascent into heaven
The holiday holds special significance in various regions across Spain
making it one of the most anticipated and vibrant celebrations during the summer
The Assumption of the Virgin Mary refers to the belief that Mary
was taken body and soul into heaven at the end of her earthly life
as well as the Eastern Orthodox Church and some Protestant denominations
The Feast of the Assumption is considered a triumph of Mary’s faithfulness and devotion
symbolising the victory of God in her life
with its roots firmly planted in the Christian tradition
It commemorates the day Mary ascended into heaven
and it holds particular importance within the Catholic Church
Pope Pius XII officially proclaimed the Assumption of Mary as a dogma of faith
solidifying its significance within the Catholic doctrine
August 15 is marked as a national holiday in Spain
known as the Annual Bank Holiday of Virgen de la Asunción
It is one of the eight nationwide holidays observed throughout the year
This holiday is celebrated across all the autonomous communities in Spain
and many workers look forward to the accompanying long weekend or ‘puente’ (‘bridge’) by taking a vacation day on the Monday preceding the holiday
The Assumption of the Virgin coincides with numerous local patron saint festivities
adding a vibrant layer of culture and tradition to the celebrations
the feast is marked by the Verbenas of Virgen de la Paloma
the patron saint of the La Latina neighbourhood
various towns and cities throughout Spain commemorate their patron saints during this time
Each region in Spain embraces the Annual Bank Holiday of Virgen de la Asunción in its own way
creating a diverse range of celebrations that reflect the cultural identity and traditions of the area
the holiday is celebrated with a grand procession of the Virgin Mary
Cadiz: The city of Sanlúcar de Barrameda in Cadiz takes the celebrations to the beach
Residents create intricate carpets made of salt
lining the streets with these artistic creations
The Caridad Coronada procession passes through these streets
commemorates the Catholic Monarchs’ victory over the Muslims in 1487
is a blend of religious and entertainment activities
Valencia: The Cathedral of Valencia becomes the focal point of the celebrations
The image of the Dormition of Mary is transferred from the temple of Los Milagros to the Cathedral
accompanied by a lively procession and music
Elche: The city of Elche is renowned for the ‘Mystery of Elche,’ a sacred-lyrical drama that reenacts the Dormition
This artistic masterpiece has been designated as part of the UNESCO Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity
This nationwide holiday is a significant event in the Spanish calendar
it necessitates adjustments in business hours
While many establishments will remain closed
and Hipercor will have modified schedules on this day
with varied opening and closing hours depending on the location
Mercadona has already announced that they will be open until 3 pm and other supermarkets have advertised their updated schedules on each website
Local markets will usually change the date and this change is usually notified on the town hall website or social media accounts
The next national bank holiday or red day as they are often referred to is the Fiesta Nacional de España on October 12
As with all Spanish bank holidays the use of fireworks can be pretty much guaranteed so if you are a pet parent you might try the following tips to help your furry friend:
Set up a cozy and secure space in your home where your pet can retreat to during the fireworks
Keep windows and curtains closed to minimize the sights and sounds of the fireworks
This can help reduce the sensory overload for your pet
Offer your pet toys or treats that they enjoy
Engaging them in play or giving them a puzzle toy can help take their mind off the fireworks
Pets often pick up on their owner’s emotions
Make sure your pet is wearing a collar with up-to-date identification tags
In case your pet does get frightened and runs away
this will increase the chances of them being safely returned to you
Let us know how your local town celebrates this national bank holiday
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a new era of small plates awaits © Alexander Spatari / Getty
Zesty olive oils, boat-fresh seafood, one-of-a-kind sherries, herb-infused cheeses, some of Andalucía’s most irresistible tapas – this is just a taste of what’s on the menu in the soulful southern Spanish town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda
which has recently been named the 2022 Capital Española de la Gastronomía (Spanish Capital of Gastronomy)
For the last decade, each year Spain has been shining a spotlight on a lesser-known city or region working wonders with local produce and flavors and promoting its delectable gastronomy as a key tourism draw. Now, the Capital de la Gastronomía is one of the most-awaited events on Spain’s thrilling culinary calendar
As Sanlúcar steps into its unrivaled new foodie shoes
here’s a look at Spain’s drool-worthy gastronomic capitals
The best dishes in Spain, and where to try them
Picture this: you’ve crammed into a heaving tapas bar, then a wafer-thin, shrimp-filled fritter fresh with chopped parsley and onions appears on the countertop. This is Cádiz province’s beloved tortillita de camarones, a signature speciality in salt-scented Sanlúcar, perched at the mouth of the Río Guadalquivir in western Andalucía
Even better when washed down with a glass of manzanilla
the Atlantic-influenced sherry produced only in Sanlúcar
runs expert-led food tours and the town’s Mercado de Abastos is a feast of fresh Andalucian produce
Spain's 10 natural wonders
Tucked between Andalucía and Valencia, with almost 300km of sun-washed Mediterranean coastline, Murcia is known for its magnificent huerta (Moorish-era vegetable gardens)
delicious bomba rice and paprika made with ñora peppers
Here in Spain’s 2020-21 gastronomic capital
you’ll be digging into frito murciano (pisto)
paparajotes (fried battered lemon leaves) and glorious arroces (rice dishes)
served laden with game meat inland and laced with seafood along the coast
San Sebastian is coastal Spain’s best winter escape
Having snagged the original gastronomic crown in 2012, La Rioja offers much more than some of Spain’s finest red wines
this tiny northern region’s cuisine centres on locally grown vegetables (potatoes
often served a la riojana (stewed with peppers
Hit the pintxo (Basque-style tapas) bars around Calle del Laurel in elegant Logroño (Bar Torrecilla, Tastavin, Taberna del Laurel and Bar Soriano should get you started), and don’t miss the Mercado de San Blas, founded in 1930. Or settle in at La Cocina de Ramón or Íkaro for an innovative
Ultimate eats: the world's top 10 food experiences for 2022
Toledo might be renowned for its splendid architecture, but it’s also a city of unstoppable interior-Spain gastronomy. Reigning foodie queen for 2016, Castilla-La Mancha’s Unesco-listed capital cooks up a storm headlined by Manchego cheese
cochifrito (stewed-then-fried lamb) and arroz a la toledana (rice with pork) are just a few classics on Toledo’s tables; another star is La Mancha’s DO-protected saffron
Kick-off your Toledo food tour with old-town tapas at Bar Ludeña, El Trébol and El Botero; go for elegant restaurant-and-winery Adolfo
set in a lovely finca with views across the city; or hunt down a centuries-old home for contemporary-Spanish creations at Alfileritos 24
How to get around in Spain
On Spain’s sun-soaked Mediterranean shoreline, this eastern-Andalucian city has a traditionally-rooted, now-emerging gastronomy that earnt it Capital Gastronómica status in 2019. Almería’s delectable creations pull in super-fresh seafood
on-the-doorstep vegetables and spectacular platos de cuchara (‘spoon dishes’)
prawns and migas (made with fried semolina here) mingle with tropical fruits (watermelons
mangoes) grown along the coast and mountain meats and jamón serrano from inland villages
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Crowned in 2014, the Basque Country’s little-explored regional capital combines an unstoppable food scene with a lively
it’s all about fresh Basque ingredients (from Idiazábal cheese to wild mushrooms to river-fresh trout) and an irresistible fusion of traditional flavors with forward-thinking creativity
Savour the gastro-style bars at the Mercado de Abastos
linger over Rioja Alavesa wines on Plaza de la Virgen Blanca or jump on the pintxo-pote trails
a string of food-lovers’ itineraries for sampling divine pintxos
buzzing PerretxiCo and Andalucía-inspired El Tabanko are just a few beloved pintxo haunts
while El Clarete seduces with original season-fired menus and El Portalón serves traditional staples in a 15th-century mansion
5 spectacular road trips around Spain
While sharing similarities with Burgos’s cuisine, the mouth-watering food scene in lively 2018 winner León puts its own twist on Castilla y León’s beloved recipes
Standout ingredients range from cecina (a jamón-like cured cow’s meat) to pungent Valdeón cheese made in the remote Picos de Europa mountains and wines from the province’s two grape-growing regions
León’s awe-inspiring Barrio Húmedo (old town) is also one of Spain’s liveliest tapas hubs; must-try stops include Camarote Madrid
boundary-pushing Cocinandos is the city’s first Michelin-star restaurant
Madrid’s best parks for sightseeing
Maó’s lively Ses Forquilles (a wine-and-tapas fave) and more
Traveling to the Canary or Balearic islands in Spain? Here’s what to expect
On the border with Portugal, little-touristed Extremadura produces some of Spain’s most prized jamón ibérico (Iberian ham), and the ancient monument-strewn city of Cáceres (named 2015 culinary capital) is a magical place to taste it
Cáceres’s Unesco-listed Ciudad Monumental also delights with artisanal Torta del Casar cheese
honey from Extremadura’s hills and Jerte cherries
Atrio ranks among Spain’s most inspired and sustainable restaurants
Other Cáceres temptations include creative La Cacharrería
classic-with-a-twist La Tahona and smart Tapería Yuste
Unforgettable experiences off the beaten path in Spain
sumptuous seafood and golden sands … these seaside towns in France
Greece and Portugal are ingrained with the spirit of summer
CroatiaIt’s known as the gateway to Krka national park and the Kornati islands
but this 1,000-year-old city has enough in itself to keep visitors happily busy for days
A slow amble along its waterfront goes past bars
restaurants and the 15th-century Cathedral of St James
a Unesco world heritage site with a blend of gothic and renaissance architecture
In the labyrinthine old town are several of Šibenik’s fortresses
a magical spot for outdoor concerts in summer
There’s also the newly renovated Barone fortress
a pebbly blue-flag beach north of the old town
Where to eat/drink Enjoy harbour views from Tomaseo (mains from £12). Start with octopus carpaccio before a main of slow-cooked lamb. For an introduction to Croatian wines, check out Vino & Ino in the old town
Where to stay On a peninsula overlooking the marina, sleek D-Resort (doubles from £152) has smart rooms with balconies and sea views
Getting there Split airport is 53km to the south-east
a stylish B&B in the south of the town
Getting there Zadar airport is 13km east of the old town
Ryanair flies from Manchester and Stansted; easyJet from Luton – both May-October only
View image in fullscreenCalled City of Flowers for its bloom-laden streets
Sanremo is Italy’s Monte Carlo – with a grand 1905 casino but not Monaco prices
and in true Italian style most beaches charge for entry
and it’s fun to take the trolleybus (filobus
line U) west to the free beaches of Bagni Azzurri and Tre Ponti
Where to eat/drink On the main road behind the marina, Basilico e Pinoli does excellent coffee and breakfasts, with lots for vegetarians and vegans. At Osteria Camelot – in an 18th-century house at the foot of La Pigna – try octopus carpaccio (€10)
swordfish gnocchi (€10) or seared tuna with sesame (€15)
It’s a scenic 90-minute train ride along the Côte d’Azur and over the border to Sanremo (from €5.80 one-way).Liz Boulter
View image in fullscreen Photograph: Antonio Zanghì/Getty ImagesIn this south-coast port (pronounced “shacka”) founded by ancient Greeks
with panoramic Piazza Scandaliato the town’s beating heart
Above are steep streets of 16th-century houses
a baroque cathedral and the remains of a castle
It’s also a short drive to the ruins of Selinunte
more evocative and less busy than Agrigento’s
Where to eat/drink Tired of fizzy Peroni? Head to Mastro Malto beer shop on the harbour
with a wide choice of mostly Italian craft ales on draught and in bottles
for fish caponata – with aubergines and onions – and huge prawns
View image in fullscreenSanta Luzia basilica seen from Praia do Cabedelo
Photograph: Fotokon/Getty ImagesAt the mouth of the river Lima on the Atlantic coast
Viana do Castelo is a particularly pretty town
backed by the basilica-topped Santa Luiza hill (jump on a funicular for amazing views
The charming medieval centre radiates out from bar-lined Praça da República and the narrow winding streets and wide
leafy boulevards are dotted with churches and impressive buildings
with architectural styles from baroque to art deco
There are wild beaches galore: to the south is Praia do Cabedelo
an endless sandy stretch backed by dunes and pine forest that’s great for surfing and windsurfing
and cycle paths and walking trails run along both river and coast
Where to eat/drink For great fish and seafood try small, family-run Tasquinha da Linda right on the port. The custard doughnuts from Confeitaria Natário are famous – expect queues
Where to stay Hotel Fabrica do Chocolate (doubles from €84 B&B) makes a fun
central base – it’s a converted chocolate factory with a good restaurant (chocolate fountains at breakfast!) and a chocolate museum on-site
Getting there Porto is the closest airport (67km away
including easyJet and Ryanair.Jane Dunford
to discover sea caves and the 16th-century John the Baptist fortress (boats leave daily)
Where to eat The harbour is packed with great seafood restaurants. Feast on caldeirada – a Portuguese stew of shellfish, eels and octopus made in a large pot for sharing – at Restaurante Marisqueira dos Cortiçais
Snack Bar Sol é Vida excels with its fresh crab – perfect with a bottle of vinho verde on the veranda
View image in fullscreenPlaya de Bajo de Guía
Photograph: AlamySanlúcar is a heady mix of palaces
For centuries it was home to the Duke of Medina Sidonia and a departure point for voyages to the new world
Seville aristocracy began decamping here for summer fun in the 19th century and a convivial
Sitting at the mouth of the Guadalquivir river
facing the wild dunes of Doñana national park
it has 6km of sandy beaches and the pellucid sea informs every aspect of this lovely town
from the extraordinary light to the manzanilla sherry made from grapes grown in salty air
The best time to come – though actually the worst time to be sitting on Playa de la Calzada – is during August’s Carreras de Caballos
when horses are raced along the beach during the evening low tides (8-10 and 22-24 August 2018)
Where to eat Eat fish at tables by the sea along Playa de Bajo de Guía – try arroz con bogavante (rice with lobster) at Casa Bigote (mains €15), or in tapas form at the lively Casa Balbino
Where to stay Trawl AirBnB for private palaces, or opt for the quirky Posada de Palacio (doubles from €50 room only).Getting there The closest airports are Jerez (34km
there are smaller bays east beyond the marina
and the famous protected beaches of Genoveses and Mónsul start 1km to the west (accessible by shuttle bus)
Where to eat While views at El Jardín (mains €9) aren’t the best, the fresh salads, pizzas and crepes are delicious. And don’t miss the arroz meloso de pulpo y almejas (sticky rice with octopus and clams) at upmarket 4 Nudos (mains €15) in the Club Náutico in the marina
Where to stay Boutique hotel MC San José (low-season doubles from €70) is the chic choice, and Refugio Calahiguera (doubles €55), in a nearby cove, the budget choice. Getting there Jet2 flies to Almería (32km from San Jose) from eight UK airports
Where to eat Galixidi is a foodie hotspot. Try the stuffed onions at O Bebelis or fresh seafood at the portside Skeletovrachos taverna
In the morning sip iced coffee like a local at the Art Café Old Liotrivi
Where to stay The charming, central Ganimede Hotel (doubles from €80) does an incredible Greek breakfast of homemade pies
Getting there Several airlines fly to Athens
View image in fullscreen Photograph: Instants/Getty ImagesOn the northern shores of the Pagasitikos Gulf in central Greece lies the vibrant port of Volos
with Mount Pelion as its backdrop and the Pelion peninsula extending east and south like a giant fishhook
Take an evening volta (stroll) along the Argonafton waterfront and lose yourself (enjoyably) in the pedestrian side streets off Ermou
is perfect for a dip and has good tavernas
6km south-east on the headland and lined with cafes
the Pelion peninsula makes a delightful day trip
its mountainous ridge drops dramatically into the sea; the western side is gentler
There are scenic mountain villages with majestic views over the Gulf and secluded pebbled beaches fringing olive groves
Where to eat Charming Ala Palaia (52 Krokiou) serves dishes from around Greece
Traditional taverna Ellados Eikones (9 Almirou) stays open late
serves tasty Greek dishes and has live music
Where to stay Elegant, comfortable and modern, the Aegli Hotel (doubles from £85 B&B) is on the seafront promenade right in the thick of things and serves a particularly good breakfast.Getting there EasyJet flies to Volos (airport 24km away) from Gatwick
View image in fullscreen Photograph: Chekyfoto/Getty ImagesMost of south-west France’s Atlantic coast is windblown and frequented by surfers
whose sandy bay is protected from the ocean by three sea walls
St Jean de Luz’s John the Baptist church hosted one of the biggest royal weddings in history
so it’s usually possible to find a quiet spot
Lafiténia and Cénitz are within easy reach
Don’t miss the starter of moules à la plancha
cooked on a hotplate with a touch of chilli
Where to stay French seaside hotels can be pricey in high season. For affordable charm, try Le Petit Trianon, a five-minute walk from the beach with 20 simple, colourful rooms from €95 in July. Only Apartments has flats sleeping four near the beach from around €700 a week in summer
Getting there EasyJet flies to Biarritz (17km north of St-Jean-de-Luz) from Gatwick and Luton (summer only); Ryanair from Stansted
held in the city’s amphitheatre and on the beach
while August sees water jousting tournaments on the canals
Where to eat/drinkLa Méditerranéenne (mains from €11) is a friendly seafood restaurant in a quiet spot near the marina; try the swordfish and tapenade. Halles et Manger has wild sea bream for €21
Where to stayHotel Venezia (doubles from €60 room-only) is close to the beaches and has 18 simple rooms
Getting there EasyJet flies to Montpellier (35km north of Sète) from Luton (summer only) and Gatwick.Carolyn Boyd
This article was amended to correct a lead image that
La junta de gobierno de la Hermandad de los Estudiantes de la vecina localidad de Sanlúcar de Barrameda ha nombrado al capataz Martín Gómez Moreno como la persona encargada de pronunciar el próximo año 2021 la trigésimo octava edición del Pregón del Costalero
Martín Gómez es uno de los capataces más reconocidos de nuestra ciudad
comandando en la actualidad las cuadrillas de costaleros de la Sagrada Mortaja
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