The city of Jerez de la Frontera is at the heart of the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO that shares its name
This is one the oldest wine-producing regions in Spain
thought to have been established by the Phoenicians more than 3,000 years ago
The old part of the city is built around the medieval Moorish fortress of the Alcázar and the 17th-century Christian cathedral
But the region’s distinctive architecture owes much to another kind of cathedral: the old bodegas or ‘Sherry cathedrals’
typically built during the zenith of the Sherry industry in the 19th century
The Fiestas de la Vendimia
takes place over two weeks in early September
The festival program offers a range of wine and cultural activities
Tabancos – old wine and tobacco shops, converted into small bars – are an important part of social life in the city. Some, like well-known El Pasaje and El Guitarrón de San Pedro
are lively spots for traditional tapas and
Other, lesser-known bodegas are also ripe for discovery and these hold their own treasures. Norwegian Jan Pettersen realised a long-held dream when he acquired the prestigious Fernando de Castilla bodega in 1999
and each year the spring bottling of fino en rama (drawn directly from cask
bottled unfined and unfiltered) is not to be missed
Bodegas Faustino González is a family affair
the late Faustino González Aparicio (a doctor) purchased soleras dating back to 1789 from the Alcázar of Jerez
adding them to the bodega owned by his wife Carmen; today their 12 children are all partners in the business
with son Jaime González at the helm and two others actively involved
All of their artisan Sherries are bottled en rama
Ximénez Spínola produces wines exclusively using Pedro Ximénez
with an impressive range that includes still wines and dry Sherry
as well as the intensely sweet style typical of PX
The region’s two other key traditional centres of production
Sanlúcar de Barrameda and El Puerto de Santa María
are also two of the easiest day trips by public transport from Jerez de la Frontera
charming old towns and (more) Sherry are all just a short train or bus ride away
Sanlúcar de Barrameda is situated on the estuary of the Guadalquivir river
maritime microclimate here results in a thicker layer of flor – the yeast cells that settle on top of the wine in a barrel and protect it from contact with air – integral to the refreshing and delicate style of manzanilla wines
and climb the steep street up to the 15th-century Castillo de Santiago for sprawling views of the town and estuary
don’t miss the Sanlúcar horse races along the beach
About 15km to the southwest of Jerez is El Puerto de Santa María, on the Bay of Cádiz. Lustau, part of the Caballero group since 1990
is the only Sherry producer with wineries located in all three of the key Sherry cities; visit its winery at El Puerto’s San Marcos castle (two-hour tour and tasting: adults €16
The Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DO consejo regulador
the DO announced an expansion of the Sherry maturation zone beyond the three main cities that form what has in the past been thought of as the ‘Sherry Triangle’
The boundaries of the region’s production and maturation zones have been realigned
so that it forms more of a Sherry ‘rectangle’
Puerto Real and Chiclana could only grow grapes and produce base wine under the auspices of the DO
Alongside these and other regulatory changes
six grape varieties that were quite common in the region pre-phylloxera (which arrived here in 1894) have been authorised for Sherry production and are being reintroduced
It’s an exciting time for the region as it expands and evolves
each only about half an hour’s drive from Jerez de la Frontera
Below are three of the six that offer winery or wine museum visits
but local wines can be tasted in the bars and restaurants of all six towns
Just off the main N-4 road from Jerez to Seville, Lebrija is a medieval market town with charming white houses overlooking the Guadalquivir marshes. Bodegas Halcón offers visits by appointment; visits to Bodegas González Palacios (@lebrijavinos) are available on Saturday mornings by appointment
a non-profit association that compiles information on wineries and wine-tourism activities in the DO
Casa Palacio María Luisa
This 5-star luxury hotel won the 2024 World Travel Awards category for leading boutique hotel in Spain
It’s located in the old city and is organised around a stunning central tiled courtyard
The rooms are decorated in a classic contemporary style and the hotel has its own restaurant
Hotel Palacio Corredera
This charming hotel in a converted convent is just a short walk from both the city centre and the train station
spacious rooms and suites facing onto a light-filled inner patio
La Gitanilla Alojamiento & Encanto
This lovingly restored house dates back to 1865
it offers modern comfort in a traditional setting
Expect personal service and a unique Jerezano experience
including a 24-hour Sherry honour bar and a terrace with views of the cathedral
El Bichero
Having established a reputation as a seafood temple in the centre of Jerez
El Bichero has since moved to larger and more elegant premises on the eastern outskirts of the city
La Carboná
La Carboná is set in a beautifully restored Sherry bodega – a vast yet cosy space
Located in the city centre and open for lunch and dinner daily except Tuesdays
Mantúa
A one-star Michelin restaurant that offers two seasonal tasting menus in an elegant six-table dining room
Service is impeccable without being stuffy
La Casa del Jerez
La Casa stocks an extensive range of Sherry wines
It also hosts regular tastings and will ship purchases internationally
Open Monday-Friday 9.30am-2.30pm/5.30-8.30pm
this brand new gourmet food and wine shop on Plaza Esteve is run by a passionate and knowledgeable young team
It stocks excellent Sherries and brandies as well as local table wines
There are frequent direct flights to Seville (one hour away by train) and some direct European flights to Jerez
but some are also accessible by public transport
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