A food writer shares her hard-won lessons for eating well in Bordeaux
and I remember how challenging it was to work my way through the endless crop of restaurants that appeared on every street corner
in the city with the largest number of restaurants per capita in France.)
I was 17 when I left my native La Rochelle
two hours north of Bordeaux on the Atlantic coast
to study law (which was not a great success) and then to study communications and journalism
I chose Bordeaux because it’s attractively wedged between the sea
and because it’s the largest city in southwest France
and it wasn’t long before I decided that I wanted to make it not just my passion
I tried my best to consume the essence of the city
I embarked on this quest by looking for the restaurants serving the established hits
grenier Médocain (sausage cooked in pig’s stomach with spices)
steak with the traditional red-wine sauce with shallots
crépinettes à la truffe (a sausage served with oysters from the Bay of Arcachon)
rum-scented cakes invented by nuns in the vineyards
repurposing all the egg yolks donated by the great wine châteaux that used egg whites to fine their wines
I ended up in perfectly nice traditional places
Bordeaux institutions that kept their promises and gave me small taste of what the city had to offer
I landed at restaurants with fixed menus catering to tourists
In this frantic odyssey to find the ideal Bordeaux restaurant, I also followed, to the letter, the old French adage “the world attracts the world” and ran to see where others were running. Thus, more than once I found myself in the long line for L’Entrecote in the Allées de Tourny
I joined dozens of people waiting patiently to taste the steak
I realized that even though these experiences were not unpleasant
lining up at L’Entrecôte did not make me a Bordeaux gourmet
I had overlooked the beating heart of the city’s food culture: the newer restaurants specializing in local produce
and the young passionate chefs who come to Bordeaux not to conform to its gastronomic traditions
always using the foundation of the city’s culinary riches: its raw ingredients
Bordeaux is perfectly located to source high-quality products
flanked by the Garonne and Dordogne rivers and the Bay of Arcachon
and close to the many wonders of the Basque Country
the poultry and livestock reared on these lands
the region’s incomparable wine grapes are just a small part of the wealth of local products that feed the city
I ate the dish that sparked this epiphany one warm evening in July, at a bistro on the Rue du Chai des Farines called The Meat Pack BBQ—not surprisingly
I ate a slab of matured Bazas beef that left an indelible impression of both powerful flavor and tenderness
a meat marbled with exceptionally aromatic fat
Bazas is a small town 37 miles from Bordeaux
is meat from cattle born and reared in the Gironde
It has geographically protected status and a “Label Rouge”—a mark of quality and expertise
Only a dozen or so butchers have been approved to age and sell the meat
The Meat Pack has a big choice of cuts from six local breeds: Bazas
and rare oxen from Txogitxu in the Basque Country
source of the the 2-pound Chuletón de Buey
Each breed has distinct aromatic qualities: more or less strong
The meat is aged for several weeks or months under carefully controlled conditions to further develop flavor
This painstaking process (but short journey) from the farm to my plate paid off in every bite
I have made my passion for food—and the search for the perfect dish—my job
And I know that if you want to eat well in Bordeaux
don’t look for the restaurants reproducing old favorites
Find the people and places that combine a deep respect for local ingredients with a playful approach to elevating and reinventing them
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Do like the Bordelais do and head for the coast
Bordeaux has close to 7,000 winemakers and 65 appellations
From oysters to spices to Sichuan carpaccio
Bordeaux’s food reflects the perks of being a city on the crossroads of global trading routes
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Bordeaux
serving everything from vegan cannelé to Neopolitan pizza
the food scene here has an equally fabulous reputation for good reason.
the local produce here is as fresh as it gets; we’re talking lamprey eel
The food here comes with a price tag but it’s worth every penny (just make sure to skip the tourist traps)
Here are the best restaurants in Bourdeaux.
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At Time Out, all of our travel guides are written by local writers who know their cities inside out. For more about how we curate, see our editorial guidelines.
Photograph: SymbioseSymbiose is many things at once
A cocktail bar and restaurant with a cute terrace on Quai des Chartrons
its interiors are all wooden beams and stone walls
designed by the four young partners who own and run it
For its small plates and tasting menu (available every Tuesday)
many of the ingredients are sourced from Symbiose’s own on-site garden
get a drink at the speakeasy-style cocktail bar tucked away behind an antique grandfather clock
The menu of classics and signature drinks is stellar – again made with components from the garden
Photograph: SoifWith its selection of good, natural wine, small plates and excellent vibes, Soif is not to be missed
This caves à manger (a French term for a wine bar serving food) serves simple
seasonal dishes on cute grandma-chic plates
Food is based on the morning market’s spoils, but signatures include pork belly and hazelnut pâté en croute
and pot-au-feu terrine with foie gras medallion
The 350-strong wine list offers a mix of by-the-glass and by-the-bottle delights sourced from artisanal vintners in France and further afield
Soif is a gem in the Saint-Pierre district’s crown.
Photograph: Le CharabiaTicking all the boxes for the dream local bistro, Guillaume Samson’s Le Charabia brings a whole lot of life to the quiet Hôtel de Ville area
Join the regulars for smart small plates like pork pithivier with artichoke thistle and grapes
and brothy brown mushroom arancini with beetroot ketchup
The soundtrack is eighties new wave and wines are all organic from local makers
try as much as you can and try to resist the temptation to move in for good
its large terrace is buzzing from noon until night
Photograph: Madame PangIt might not look like much from the outside, but head beyond Madame Pang’s discreet shopfront to discover a slice of subterranean Hong Kong by way of Bordeaux
Grab a spot at the marbled bar or make yourself comfortable on the velvet benches to enjoy sophisticated dim sum classics – think crab cakes with coriander
plump braised pork bao and satay chicken dumplings
The drinks list is equally impressive; highlights include the Kaika
as well as an exciting selection of Japanese beers
Go for the bao buns filled with Fourme d’Ambert blue cheese
Perched on the seventh floor of the Cité du Vin, the aptly-named Le 7 has floor-to-ceiling windows that offer spectacular views over the city and the Garonne river
Chef Djordje Ercevic delivers bistronomy wonders that blend local produce with far-flung flavours
chickpea hummus and oyster tartare, or tuck into crispy veal sweetbreads with foaming butter
Pastry chef Marilou Tamarelle is sure to wow on the dessert front – unsurprising really
since she trained with heavyweight Thierry Marx
The lemon yuzu meringue and deconstructed chocolate tart
including Château Margaux and Cheval Blanc.
Photograph: iBoatOn an old ferry moored in the Bassin à Flots district is iBoat
an artistic and cultural project that’s gone from strength to strength since it began its (stationary) voyage in 2011. It’s
a concert hall and an artists’ residence
and has earned an international reputation for its hosting and programming of electronic music. Part of the package is a neighbouring former ballroom called Blonde Venus
the outdoor space welcomes crowds for al fresco drinks and events ranging from DJ sets and concerts to cinema screenings and second-hand clothing pop-ups
Photograph: BocceAt street level, Bocce Saint Paul lures you in with its zingy indigo frontage and eye-popping green chairs
And while you might come for the colour combinations
you’ll stay for the Neapolitan pizza
all ingredients come from Italian producers; meaning fresh bresaola from Lombardi
Menu highlights include the mortadella with truffle and pistachio
best accompanied with a bottle of organic Italian wine from the restaurant’s short but perfectly formed cave inventory
the team has turned the vaulted wine cellar into a petanque court
You can even plug in your own music to provide the perfect soundtrack to your winning streak.
Photograph: Casa GaïaA light-filled, wood-panelled space, Casa Gaïa focuses on tapas plates and salads made from organic ingredients
All ingredients can be traced back to local producers; the trout
an artisanal fish farm in Lot-et-Garonne. It’s served with Espelette pepper
grilled vegetables and chard leaves. Melt-in-the-mouth doesn’t even cut it
Other dishes include octopus a la plancha with Bordelaise ricotta and chocolate cake made with sweet potato
Don’t miss the gorgeous natural wines.
Photograph: Halles de BacalanOpened in 2017 in front of the Cité du Vin wine museum, Halles de Bacalan has become a hotspot for Bordeaux foodies
artisanal traders and regional chefs in a giant hall
or pause for aperitifs and bites from a selection of stalls – truffle pasta
Although dishes will taste just as good indoors
eating on the market’s terrace – which looks out across the water and is the biggest in Bordeaux – is an unbeatable experience.
the giant bell at the former gates of the city.
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A 1,000 pound bear was spotted at the corner of 82nd and Columbus Avenue this week
owner of Quality Florist at 447 Columbus Avenue
adopted the traffic island a few years back and has been entertaining neighbors with his whimsical seasonal decorations
a chain-saw sculpture by an artist on Long Island
has been safely secured in the traffic island
“I’m not worried about someone stealing it,” Bazas said
But he doesn’t want it to tip and hurt anyone so it’s chained and cemented into place
Neighbors are offering up names but Bazas said he’s been calling it Nick
Quality Florist has been a fixture on Columbus Avenue for over 48 years
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I wondered how long it would take WSR to report this. It only went up 2 weeks ago. 😮
Another reason to support our local stores!!!! This Mother’s Day support locally!
Was admiring Nick when I walked by yesterday! Always love their decorations on that island. Keep up the good work!
It looks great – I will have to take a walk and see it in person. Thank you Mr. Bazas!
I love it nick and I have been friends for 25yrs I’m mary from zingones I too adopted my tree on west 83 and columbus and have been decorating it for the past 2yrs it gives such pleasure making our ave beautiful mary zingone vinci 471 col ave
Many thanks to you too Mary! It makes the neighborhood much nicer.
can’t wait to see this in person. love it.
Thank you Nick! That is one of the happiest little pieces of earth on the upper west side. Been a delight to me and to many for a very long time! Thanks again!
Great touch by a local small business owner. This is the kind of thing you don’t get with the other crass big box and bank type of businesses that have been increasingly taking over the UWS storefronts.
Is this the bear who for years blew bubbles in front of Penny Whistle Toys on this same block?
Hey Nick, thanks for making Columbus Ave a nicer place. I love bears and that’s a really unique one.
Makes me miss the good old days of Bear Bar 🙂
© 2025 West Side Rag | All rights reserved.
© 2025 West Side Rag | All rights reserved.
Carolina Hurricanes Editorial Content Producer and Team Reporter Walt Ruff recommended “This is Russia: Life in the KHL – Doctors, bazas and millions of air miles” by
Bernd Bruckler and Risto Pakarinen to me over Twitter
and as I am a new hockey fan I was intrigued
I look for a book to learn about something I know little about
But this book did well to open my eyes to what life can be like grinding out 82
or more a year on the ice two or three nights a week
“The Kontinentalnaya Hokkeynaya Liga (KHL)
has quickly established itself as the second best league in the world
Bernd Brückler spent two seasons playing for Torpedo Nizhny Novogorod
and a season with Sibir Novosibirsk in Siberia
he tells us what it’s like to be an import player in Russia
and the challenges he faced with the language
and how they’d have to spend big parts of the season away from their families
His driver was also his buddy and a bodyguard
with hours upon hours on planes that are often antiquated
This book was not terribly hard to read and did not take me all that long to go cover to cover
it is written by a second language English speaker so we are not getting William Faulkner in the translation
if you are familiar at all with central European
you will know the frankness of their style
In its 1st edition “War and Peace” had 1,225 pages
What most folks will likely take away is the toll hockey takes on players as they travel
While NHL teams move from city to city in style
and not in Soviet era cargo planes that have been shot down with rifles
we saw the aftermath of the road games earlier in the season
and just how well the team has responded to playing at home
Take the 5-4 win OT win over the San Jose Sharks as a prime example
Coming back to force overtime with 1:30 left probably does not happen on the road
Not in this chapter of the book…if you will
Canes fans will get a glimpse into what our Russian imports
In the Carolina Hurricanes organization of course is Pyotr Koochetkov freshly arrived from Russia currently in Chicago
But Carolina is looking more and more to Russian leagues to pick up raw
Even if things have gotten better than they were in Bruckler’s experience
So Russian players will certainly appreciate the easy of travel if and when they make it to the NHL
their’s is a different style of playing that fits well with the Hurricanes
I have to give “This is Russia: Life in the KHL – Doctors
bazas and millions of air miles” by Bernd Bruckler and Risto Pakarinen at a solid 4 stars
but the insight into hockey and life as a hockey player in Russia more than makes up for anything lost in translation
Hurricanes fans might take a look at this as well to gain a solid perspective on our Russian players and prospects
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Bernd Brückler spent two seasons playing for Torpedo Nizhny Novogorod
In the Carolina Hurricanes organization of course is Pyotr Koochetkov freshly arrived from Russia currently in Chicago
as he entered adulthood he fully grasped the sacrifices of choosing a military career
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19 May in the Basilica of Divine Providence by Cardinal Kazimierz Nycz (diocèse de Varsovie en Pologne)
• Damien ESCARDO
in the cathedral of Sainte-Marie-Majeure by Mgr Jean-Marc Aveline (diocese of Marseille)
Aubert de PETIVILLE and Steven LABAT 26 June at 9.30 a.m
in the Church of Saint-Sulpice by Mgr Michel Aupetit (diocese of Paris)
• Louis-Marie ECOMARD ordained priest on 27 June at 4pm in Saint-André cathedral by Mgr Jean-Paul James (diocese of Bordeaux – Bazas)
• Basile DUMONT ordained deacon on 27 June at 4pm in Saint-André Cathedral by Mgr Jean-Paul James (diocese of Bordeaux – Bazas)
• 8 more ordinations shortly…
We give thanks to God and entrust them to your prayers
We are filled with great joy today as we learn that Pope Francis has approved the publication of the decree from the Dicastery for the Causes of Saints recognizing the “heroic virtues” of Pierre Goursat
Emmanuel Music releases a typically American album
covers with new arrangements… Bas Suijkerbuijk
shares his experience of the album as it is released on streaming platforms
Click here to access our Child Safety Policy
Suzanne Husky Artist Born 1975 in Bazas (France)
Suzanne Husky develops an artistic practice which observes the forms of domination over the living and their interconnections
Can we “work with the Earth” rather than fight against it
Her works can take the form of an aggraded (regenerated) soil
a search for the knowledges of the Earth present in tales or a tapestry on birds and pedogenesis (all the processes which
transformation or differentiation of soils)
she created with Stéphanie Sagot Le Nouveau Ministère de l’Agriculture [The New Ministry of Agriculture]
a fictional institution that aims to unmask the absurdities of French agricultural policies and provides concrete solutions to get out of an extractive model of society
Suzanne Husky presents her work at the Villa Medici Film Festival in Rome
the Espace Voltaire in Paris and the IAC Villeurbanne/Rhône-Alpes
She has also exhibited at Frac Nouvelle-Aquitaine MÉCA in Bordeaux (2020)
San Francisco International Airport (2017)
Bay Area Now 5 Triennial at YBCA San Francisco (2008)
She participates in the 16th Lyon Biennale of Contemporary Art (2022)
Suzanne Husky is represented by the Alain Gutharc gallery (Paris)
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Reviews
a cynical older girl he only just met at school
who are watching the teen show “The Pink Opaque” on the Young Adult Network
Twist curls and a beaming smile mark Owen’s innocence
as well as his obvious desire for friendship and community
As surreal images of the show’s grotesque monsters and slippery mythology wisp pass him
That dopamine surge of recognition haunts Owen
and it’s one of the film’s many telling moments that has persistently beckoned me to return.
“I Saw the TV Glow” mostly takes place during Owen’s older teenage years, when arresting questions of identity, sexuality, and personhood often occur with urgency. A transformative Justice Smith takes the reins of Owen
playing this outcast with the wounded rawness of a permanent scar
Owen’s young adult years are stained by personal loss and his on-again
which takes shape through and around their shared love of “The Pink Opaque,” a show that feels like a throwback to “Buffy the Vampire Slayer.” The show provides a window into the crushing angst Owen feels but cannot name
while his direct addresses offer intermittent grounding for his self-sabotaging
The push-pull manages to lull the viewer into a quiet trance before unmooring them into a state of unbridled panic.
from the moment he first catches sight of Maddy reading an episode guide to “The Pink Opaque,” Owen is searching for himself
Though his late-night visit to Maddy’s house is initially a one-off
his fascination with the show hasn’t diminished when he reconnects with her two years later
she leaves him VHS recordings of the episodes
with titles like “Homecoming to Get You” and “The Trouble with Tara Part 1” scribbled in pink ink
in their school’s dark room for Owen to find
Owen passionately watches these installments to the point of barely breathing
digging deeper and deeper into himself and the series’ mythology.
As a story within the story, “The Pink Opaque” is equally unshakable: Its premise involves two telepathically linked girls (played by Helena Howard and Lindsey Jordan) fighting villains dispatched by the big bad
a malformed monster in the shape of a moon named Mr
Schoenbrun films these episodes with a winking playfulness that initially suggests a kind of silly pastiche before softly revealing deeper
whose assimilative conventionality of gender norms and atrophied dreams is itself suffocating
reflected back at them through a queer lens
Do you like girls?” Maddy asks Owen on the school bleachers
“I think I like TV shows,” delivers an unvarnished Smith
I feel like someone took a shovel and dug out my insides
but I’m still too nervous to open myself up to check.”
Though Owen’s insecurities could be interpreted as being related to gender dysphoria, while watching “I Saw the TV Glow,” I also kept returning back to Jordan Peele’s “Us.” That film uses an earlier decade
and its reductive politics as a launching point to render the horrific economic legacy of Reagan’s America through the eyes of a Black nuclear family’s misplaced desire for upward mobility through crass consumerism
Television also plays a powerful role in that film: A commercial for “Hands Across America” inspires a young Addy to plan a revolt after her mind is awakened to the systemic inequality that comes from the many living a nightmare so a few might live a dream
the television unmoored Owen’s place in this picturesque town
He is enlivened by the lies of Clinton’s America
when forced homogenization—by way of bills like “Don’t Ask
Don’t Tell”—created the illusion of progressivism and diversity amid consumerist fantasies
It’s telling how not only is Owen one of the few Black faces we see in town
but he also immediately gravitates toward Maddy
a person whose identity and close relationship to television has also awakened them to the curated lies of suburban life
television as a medium—where Black subjectivity is shaken
and then re-lived—frightens Owen enough to embrace the safe
stifling fantasy of blending in by leaving yourself undefined.
and careerist; it feels like they’re making the current film solely with the mindset of remaining at the budgetary level they’ve just attained
With “I Saw the TV Glow,” the director’s glossy follow-up to their resourcefully executed “We’re All Going to the World’s Fair,” Schoenbrun films like a director who doesn’t want to live in regret of the shot they didn’t get
and risky editing—blending together conscious and imagined worlds—are the big
adventurous swings of an undaunted filmmaker.
That creative courage translates to the film’s arresting performances
playing Maddy as the kind of person whose direct exterior belies the pain seen in their closed in-frame and averted gaze
following their characters’ emotional journeys
their shared physicality diverges: Lundy-Paine strikes a broad
while Smith shrinks his chest to the point of being nearly caved in
transforming organically without ever feeling gimmicky
His body is thoughtfully unassured; his voice eventually rattles like a man who died long ago; his eyes become vacant orbs where defeat has found a cozy home
reverberates with the same intensity of Schoenbrun‘s “I Saw the TV Glow”—looping like a rerun that always feels fresh and new
no matter how many times you’ve seen it before.
Robert Daniels is Associate Editor at RogerEbert.com
He has covered film festivals ranging from Cannes to Sundance to Toronto to the Berlinale and Locarno
and is a member of the Chicago Film Critics Association
An excerpt from the book “This is Russia: Life in the KHL - Doctors, Bazas and Millions of Air Niles,” written by Bernd Bruckler with Risto Pakarinen:
especially if you consider what you get after taxes
There are also elaborate bonus systems on top of your individual contract
and then there are surprise bonuses that probably didn’t exist until you were down 2-0 after two periods
There are numerous stories of different GMs showing up in locker rooms during the intermission and promising everybody an extra $5,000 for a win in that game
that never happened in Nizhny or Novosibirsk when I was there
Bernd Bruckler spent two seasons playing for Torpedo Nizhny Novogorod and a season with Sibir Novosibirsk in Siberia. Nina Semashko/KHL Photo Agency/Getty ImagesAt the beginning of the year every player has his individual bonus
A goalie like me might get $5,000 for a shutout
A top-5 finish in the league save percentage or goals against statistics would mean a $20,000 bonus
Our imports had several different bonuses for goals and assists
but they only got them if their plus/minus was in the plus
One of my teammates had a clause for a performance bonus if he was plus-10 or better
He knew he wasn’t going to play more that season
but he had played more than half the games and had earned his plus/minus bonus
We also had a team bonus: If we made the playoffs
we’d get $1,000 per person for each point in the standings
considering it took 75-85 points to even make the playoffs
The tricky thing about bonuses is that they don’t always make it into the contract print
so sometimes they simply don’t get paid
the players negotiated having the points bonuses be added straight into their monthly payments
the team got the bonus for each point even if they didn’t make the playoffs
Magnitogorsk and some other teams have a double bonus
but then two straight wins bump up the bonus to $4,000
from the first-line center to the seventh defenseman
we were supposed to get $5,000 dollars if we were in the top 6 in our 12-team conference in certain segments of the season
By my second year I thought I knew my way around the city and the league
but Russia and the KHL could still surprise me
My first payment of the year was delayed again
and this time it wasn’t just the new players whose salaries were late
and the new bank hadn’t issued our ATM cards yet
(Banks liked having hockey teams as customers because they thought all the players would keep their money there.)
We had been with the team for a month and a half
There were rumours of the salaries getting paid shortly
they announced that everybody was getting paid that day after practice
the players were told to wait for their turn to get paid
There was a big guard in front of one of the storage rooms
I grabbed a garbage bag and walked into the room
Under each pile there was a note with the player’s name
so I could see where it said “Brückler”
the one who negotiates the contracts with the players
The sports director is responsible for the team during the season
and the team manager would take care of logistics
None of them were in the room when the payments were made
I was wondering whether anybody outside the team
besides the lady and the guards in front of me
knew that we were going to get paid that day
I had once left a poker chip case in my car
and when I came back thirty minutes later the back window was smashed in
What if somebody knew I had 1.8 million rubles on me
Russians don’t like to use big bills because of counterfeiting
Many places won’t accept a thousand-ruble bill
350 dollars would turn into 77 one-hundred-ruble bills
A thousand euros was almost enough to fill Veera’s purse
So my first paycheck would require a garbage bag
you always have your passport with you because you need it for everything
Then she asked me to sign a receipt -- there was no way I could have counted the money
so I simply trusted her -- and that was it
then tied it to my belt loops and pulled my shirt down over it
Some of the players didn’t want to get paid in cash because they didn’t have a bank account
and the imports had a few hundred thousand dollars together
One tip-off and there could easily have been somebody out there to stop our car
but my four American teammates didn’t know what to do with the cash
They could either deposit it in my account or hold on to it
I’d heard a lot of stories about people taping cash into their shin pads
or stuffing it into the shafts of their sticks
We got into Yuri’s tiny car and left the arena
while the others went to get their passports translated so they could open bank accounts
Nothing happened to any of us; we didn’t get robbed
This post is also available in: Spanish, Italian
In addition to being affected by open-pit coal mining, the Shors are impacted by gold mining companies that expropriate their land, pollute the environment and kill their flora and fauna. To make matters worse, the companies do not make financial contributions to the municipalities, nor do they comply with the processes of prior consultation. The traditional economy of the Shors, their way of life, their culture and their food are in danger.
By Anti-Discrimination Centre Memorial Brussels (ADC)*.
Artificial lake formed as a result of gold mining near the Balyksu River. In the background, the settlement of gold prospectors can be seen. Photo: Vyacheslav Krechetov
Pollution of rivers, tributaries and streams
Since gold is extracted from the upper reaches of rivers, water bodies located downstream are the most affected. Residents of Askizsky District report that the Khakassia Gold-Mining Cooperative has been discharging untreated contaminated water into the Balyksu River. In 2020, the water was found to exceed the permitted concentration of pollutants such as iron, copper, zinc and petroleum derivatives by five times.
The main danger to rivers is the artificial alteration of their watercourse. The miners use this technique to get as much gold as possible for the duration of the land licence.
Also, changing the direction of a river’s course causes blockages during the snowmelt season, which means that villages are flooded in spring. During this process, the bottom flattens out and the water begins to have less oxygen as it is generated by cavities, rocks and other natural formations in the riverbed. When summer arrives, the river becomes warmer and is covered with blue-green algae, which affects the native flora and fauna.
Flooded quarries occupy large areas of land due to the removal of the rock mass. These quarries are deeper than the river level and therefore the surrounding water drains in that direction. As a result, numerous artificial lakes began to appear in places where forests and fields used to be. During spring, the water level in these lakes rises, causing floods that affect land flora and fauna.
A new bed. The washing machine pours gravel directly into the river. Photo: Vyacheslav Krechetov
According to environmental protection laws, gold companies are responsible for environmental remediation of land affected by mining activity. However, despite promises made by the miners, this obligation is often not fulfilled. Although complaints have been made by the inhabitants and there are clear cases of environmental contamination, the licences of the mining companies operating in the vicinity of the Shor villages have never been revoked or suspended.
The ancestral meadows of the Ilyinka villagers were destroyed by the Novy Bazas mining company. Photo: Vyacheslav Krechetov
Uncontrolled licences and decisions without prior consent
The Shor community has been almost completely excluded from the decision-making process when determining whether or not to grant a mining licence on a territory where traditional activities are carried out. For example, the residents of the Shor village of Neozhidanny only found out that the land had been granted to gold mining cooperatives when heavy machinery was in the vicinity of their village and when industrial and clearing work began.
The agricultural lands of several members of the community were also destroyed. In addition, the only road, from the village to the cemetery and the hunting and gathering areas in the forest, was blocked by a checkpoint that can only be crossed by mining workers. While the authorities claim that a public hearing was held in the presence of local Shors, the villages claim that none of their members participated in or were aware of the activity.
An identical situation of violation of the principles of consent occurred in the Shor villages located in Kemerovo Oblast: Orton, Trekhrechye, Uchas, and Ilyinka. In recent years, at least three licenses for mining in the vicinity of Shor villages have been granted without any public hearings. The lack of prior consultation affects Shor people’s self-determination under international law.
The inhabitants of the village of Neozhidanny found out about the landing of a mining cooperative when heavy machinery was in the vicinity. Photo: Vyacheslav Krechetov
Despite causing so much environmental and social damage in the territories traditionally occupied by the Shors, almost none of the mining companies are registered in the municipalities where they drill underground. This means that the taxes they pay do not contribute to local budgets. Thus, the Shors are surrounded by territories used for mining, but do not receive any benefits.
Outcrop of granite rocks (waste mountains) in Gora Kuylyum. Photo: Vyacheslav Krechetov
Therefore, it is important to disseminate information about violations of indigenous rights in order to ensure a prosperous life for those Shors who continue to live a traditional way of life. Recently, the efforts of activists and human rights defenders helped initiate a dialogue on alluvial gold mining. Thus, in October 2021, it was made public that the government of Khakassia was considering a moratorium on licensing gold mining companies.
*Anti-Discrimination Centre Memorial Brussels (ADC) is an NGO working for the protection of the rights of vulnerable groups in the region of Eastern Europe and Central Asia, ethnic minorities and indigenous peoples.
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