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has been a different kind of learning experience: Campbell sees it as a more grown-up version of what she’s been doing all along
and in doing so may once again be pioneering a new approach to natural wine
one that values craftsmanship and tradition over anything that’s too new or trendy
Do you think there’s a better understanding now than when you started?I know that wines are going deeper and deeper into the natural realm
It also normalizes more naturally styled wines for the consumer
Wines that I would have been previously concerned about selling to more conventional drinkers no longer present such a hurdle
What did natural wine look like when you first got into the wine business?In the late ’90s
I was just working with lesser-known regions and lesser-known grapes
and we were excited about Grüner Veltliner and we were excited about Piedmont
We were young kids enamored by these varieties or regions that were for whatever reason less heralded than Burgundy and Bordeaux
I had a moment at the crossroads around the year 2000. I saw one path that was unfolding toward a more conventional wine industry and a more predictable elitism. And then I met David Lillie, the owner of Tribeca’s Chambers Street Wines; the importer Joe Dressner; and their ilk
There’s this other way that I could do this
It doesn’t have to be about first growths and second growths and grand crus and premier crus
Maybe I could have been that other kind of sommelier
but it was when I understood that there was this whole real down-to-earth
The kids are going to always have their thing
older wine professionals looked at us espousing small estates — and even the Loire Valley — and thought that we didn’t know what was good
My hope is that it’s a trend that is not just a trend
I hope that this is a real shift of everything that we do in terms of looking at wine as this natural product
How did you come to work for Andrew Tarlow
Was there already a natural vibe at Diner when you started there?When I worked for Louis Dressner
And so we’d had many conversations and were aligned in terms of what we loved
And we were both mentored and tended to by Joe Dressner
We sort of felt like wine siblings in a way
When Andrew gave me the wine programs to run at all his restaurants
How is the audience at Borgo different from the audience ten years ago in Brooklyn?I think Borgo, in a lot of ways, is bringing me back to my roots before natural wine because I’m always thinking about how and to whom I’m going to sell each wine. When I was building the lists at Reynard, Roman’s, Diner, and Marlow & Sons
everybody who walked in was totally our demographic: The people we were selling wine to were super open-minded
They were hipsters and artists and bohemians
But Manhattan is always a little bit different
but we also always want to welcome new people to the tent
I don’t privilege wines because they’re wild or dirty or savage or brutal
I think wines that are a little bit more classic or restrained in their style best express terroir
That continues to be my style here at Borgo
So is the market for natural wine different now?Well, like me, we’ve grown up. I think the natural-wine buyer sometimes has more resources and they might want to explore the masters of natural wine. So, for instance, here are two examples: I’m really having a lot of fun with Paolo Bea, a producer in Umbria, and Fabio Gea
both with a very iconoclastic and foundational voice in the natural-wine world
What do you see as the next evolution in this realm of wine?I think what’s going on now is intrinsically tied to climate change
Now I think it’s climate change and demanding that we take hybrid grapes and co-ferments seriously
What Jahde Marley’s doing with ABV Ferments and what we’re doing at Common Wealth Crush in Virginia
working with hybrid grapes and really giving them every bit of care as we do the vinifera grapes that we work with
There are definitely some wines on the list at Borgo — like Clos du Tue-Boeuf and Foradori — where I think
After being out of restaurants for a couple years
did you have to taste a lot to figure out this list?I did taste a lot
One thing that I am adamant about is really knowing my list
New York has become such a landscape of the allocation game
and people just buy wines because they’re hard to get — even if they don’t really want them or need them
I’m willing to pass on some allocations now
because everybody should know that this table is diverse
It’s so exciting to be able to celebrate the things that are happening
Honoring these long-standing relationships is also very important
I didn’t feel like I had to kiss anybody’s ring
I have been the current most of the time I’ve been in this industry
And I think it’s really important for me to continue to play that role
Was the idea for the list to be mostly Italian
since the kitchen has an Italian bent?I knew it was going to be more than Italy
there would be some Virginia wine on there
I knew there were a few people in California that I wanted to put on
per se — we are Italian-ish or Italian-inspired
but we’re working within the northeast farm landscape
So I thought the wine list should speak to that as well
there’s finally an opportunity to honor my love for Burgundy
He has a nice little book of natural Burgundies
I noticed you are bucking the trend of including a section dedicated to orange wine.I just wanted to reintegrate orange wine into the white-wine family
we were selling a lot of macerated white wines
but we didn’t have the word “orange.” It didn’t exist
segregated category drives me a little crazy
especially because we know that maceration is a traditional technique and it imbues certain wines with more color and other wines with no color at all
People get so obsessed with the skin-contact aspect
I think that they’re kind of missing the whole thing
the orange wines are going to live on the white-wine list
You have done a remarkable job of offering many wines that are under $100
natural wine was perceived to be cheaper than more conventional wines
and it is definitely not the case anymore.I’ve been watching them for 20 years
It’s not as cheap as you would love it to be
Being at a restaurant like this is entering a universe where we are going to take good care of you
And we have to pay our rent and we want to take care of our staff
“I went to Europe and I saw it for ten euros and now it’s this much money on your wine list?” That’s a game you can’t really play in New York
You don’t want people to come in and feel like they can’t have a bottle of wine
there’s tons of things I could choose from.” We want our people to come all the time
We want the neighborhood people to be here all the time
Hosting our guests each night as a sommelier on the floor truly gets to the heart of the matter
That’s where the soul of restaurant work resides and no matter how much work can be done from your home
the restaurant “floor” is the entire point
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in the shadow of the faraway end of the Williamsburg Bridge
Marlow & Sons became famous for buying a whole cow
and serving only what one animal could provide
The kitchen’s wood-burning oven turns out many of the dishes on the menu, including a cannelloni with braised beef cheeks.As the years passed, and Brooklyn became Brooklyn, Tarlow remained one of the architects of the reimagined borough’s cultural identity. (Firth left the partnership in 2008.) His business grew into a bit of an empire, with more restaurants—Achilles Heel
the now-closed Reynard—plus a butcher shop
Shaker-goth aesthetic that marked a place as a Tarlow joint
or (both in New York and elsewhere) a Tarlow knockoff
in a somewhat disorienting narrative reversal
just as twenty-five years ago those breathless Manhattanites spilled out of their yellow cabs into the wilds of Williamsburg
is his first new restaurant in eleven years
and his first ever outside the borough with which he is so inextricably linked
The never-outer-boroughers and the illegal-loft artists of an earlier era have colonized the brownstones of Carroll Gardens and Boerum Hill; they’ve got kids now
His restaurants remain wonderful to eat at
tailored linens—a sense of stately elegance and offhanded ease
but you can definitely hear yourself better than you can in the Sturm und Drang of Achilles Heel or Roman’s
with their packed tables and hard surfaces
as much of the cooking in the Tarlow universe is
and built around a live-fire oven that crackles in the open kitchen
which fills the front section of one of the restaurant’s two rooms
Clockwise from left: supplì all’amatriciana
and fava purée with marinated greens.You don’t need to know any of this history; if you’re willing to make the trek to Nowheresville
it’s enough just to know that Borgo is excellent
Tarlow has brought over his most reliable lieutenants to staff the kitchen
and imported some of his most charming tricks and dishes as well: a fava purée straight out of Roman’s
a crisp-skinned half chicken that harks back to old-school Marlow & Sons
semi-Catskillian mode of its ultra-influential first decade
You might arrive at your table to see the first name of the reservation-maker scrawled in loopy cursive on the white paper that tops the white linens
evoking the kooky dramatics of Diner’s menu
which servers scribble on the table as they recite each item
is echoed at Borgo in an elaborate tableside preparation of the Martini No
whose impeccably artisanal components arrive via wheeled cart and are jiggered and poured into something smooth and Vesper-like
with hints of tomato and a little zing from the skewered garnish of pickled aji dulce peppers
fancy-but-not-fussy Italian restaurants of a slightly earlier Manhattan era.If you’re in the bar
you might miss the kitchen’s wood-burning oven
the “focaccia Borgo,” which is not the lofty
bubbly slab you might be imagining but an unassuming disk of bronze-blistered flatbread that
The oven’s smoke suffuses the flame-orange flesh of sweet
tiny beets piled in a quasi-salad atop a swoop of garlicky potato purée
Its heat caresses a skewer of marshmallow-tender veal sweetbreads shining beneath a lip-sticky demi-glace
served with bones removed but head still on
Sicilian-ish pile of greens with sweet onions and pine nuts scented by the ferric kiss of saffron
Tarlow and his chef Jordan Frosolone seem focussed instead on precision—the food is exciting not for its novelty but for its proximity to perfection
another Tarlow classic (his restaurants were instrumental in bringing the dish back from gastronomic Siberia)
is here smeared lustily on flame-darkened toast and ornamented with jammy slivers of fig
golden-skinned half chicken and—if it weren’t for the serene sophistication of the room around you—you might as well be in the twilit back room at Marlow & Sons circa two-thousand-oh-something
hotly debating with your date if that’s really Narciso Rodriguez at the next table
An appetizer of radishes and turnips bagna cauda
delightfully—with the little root vegetables sliced in half and carved with fingertip-size divots
I haven’t had so much fun with a raw-root-vegetable appetizer since the NoMad restaurant (R.I.P.) exploded the whole hors-d’œuvres game with a plate of radishes enrobed
There are a few pastas on the menu—a fettuccine in a wildly rich guinea-hen ragù
a slightly one-note baked cannelloni with braised beef cheeks—but
unlike at other Italian-inflected fancy restaurants
these seem more like technical obligations than culinary showpieces
A pile of precisely stamped ravioli filled with sunchoke and mushrooms is
a thrilling explosion of mycological umami
but by the time I made it to the bottom of the plate I felt like the point had been somewhat over-made
are gracefully simple: a nutty riff on affogato
with the espresso poured into a soft pillow of pistachio gelato; a bittersweet sliver of fudgy Sachertorte (Tarlow’s grandfather is Viennese)
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It’s decorated in shades of wood and white
with gently curving ceilings (a little cavelike
a little nautical) and walls dotted with interesting
When I asked a server about one painting I particularly liked—a Cézanne-ish still-life of fruit—Tarlow
appeared tableside to proudly inform us that it had been painted by his daughter
and that it hangs directly on the other side of the wall
from an abstract work done by Tarlow himself
A double-sided fireplace connects the two dining rooms
a holdover from the Italian restaurant that occupied the space before
(A server told me that they hadn’t yet quite figured out how to light it without either overheating the space or tingeing the air with a smoky haze.) The mood and the menu evoke not only Tarlow’s own spots but a certain sort of warm
fancy-but-not-fussy Italian restaurant of a slightly earlier Manhattan era: the roaring fire at Beppe
or the intimate idiosyncrasy of the Upper West Side’s Cesca
Is it too soon to be nostalgic for twenty years ago
A long-ago crime, suddenly remembered
A limousine driver watches her passengers transform
The day Muhammad Ali punched me
What is it like to be keenly intelligent but deeply alienated from simple emotions? Temple Grandin knows
The harsh realm of “gentle parenting.”
Retirement the Margaritaville way
Fiction by F. Scott Fitzgerald: “Thank You for the Light.”
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Borgo dei Conti Resort marries the charm of a 19th-century villa with modern design and amenities
Laura Itzkowitz is a writer and editor based in Rome
She has been contributing to Travel + Leisure since 2014
when she started as a fact checker before becoming a contributing digital editor in 2015
She has also held positions as a contributing editor at The Points Guy and the NYC cities editor at DuJour Magazine
her writing has appeared in Architectural Digest
When she's not jetsetting around Italy and beyond
enjoying some cacio e pepe or relaxing at home with her husband and two dogs
Laura moved to New York City in 2011 to pursue a master's degree in creative writing and translation at Columbia University
She also holds a bachelor's degree in French from Smith College
* 10+ years of experience writing and editing * Co-wrote "New York: Hidden Bars & Restaurants," an award-winning guide to New York City's speakeasy scene published by Jonglez Editions in 2015 * Contributed to "Fodor's Brooklyn," published by Penguin Random House in 2015
which won silver in the Lowell Thomas Travel Journalism competition * Contributed an essay to "Epic Hikes of Europe," published by Lonely Planet in 2021 * Updated the 2022 edition of "Fodor's Essential Italy"
Dario Garofalo/Courtesy of Borgo dei Conti
Borgo dei Conti Resort's early bookings package is live for bookings from April 15th - May 31st
designed to capture the ideal countryside escape
The three-night package includes accommodation for 2
a bespoke picnic in Borgo Park's vast olive groves made with local ingredients
and their "Umbrian Stroll" spa treatment - a treatment designed by Nescens to relieve tension in the legs
combining deep exfoliation with a decongestant Cryogel Nescens wrap and draining massage with olive oil
stimulating blood and lymphatic circulation
Rates for the package start at €2,870 or $3,100 total for 3 nights
introduces 19 beautifully appointed rooms and suites
including their fully accessible Suite and Junior Suite options
as well as the opulent Grand Colonica Suite
the suite offers sweeping panoramic views through its expansive windows
allowing guests to fully immerse themselves in the surrounding landscape
with a soothing color palette of earthy browns
it features an open-plan layout that emphasizes space and comfort
The high wooden trussed ceiling adds an elegant touch
while the generous living area invites relaxation
The suite also includes a large bathroom with double sinks
a private lift offers direct access to this exclusive sanctuary
These new spaces embody a sense of timeless Italian elegance and regional character
offering guests an added layer of privacy within the resort's expansive grounds
Central to Borgo Dei Conti Resort is their commitment to holistic wellness
and a true escape into the Italian countryside
Guests can enjoy the outdoor infinity pool
which is nestled amidst lush greenery at the park entrance and offers a breathtaking panorama of the Umbrian hills
or lounge in the poolside cabanas and chaise lounges for an idyllic retreat
The resort's expansive spa provides a sanctuary for relaxation and rejuvenation
featuring a variety of indoor and outdoor spaces and a comprehensive array of amenities
In a partnership with the luxury cosmeceutical brand Nescens
the spa offers exquisitely crafted massages
and specialty treatments designed by skincare experts to rejuvenate
Borgo dei Conti Resort is the exclusive location for Nescens in Italy
bringing guests an elevated standard of care in a serene and refined environment
The wet area of the spa includes a hydromassage tub and an internal bio-sauna with panoramic garden views
guests can explore the Sensory Deprivation area and the Salt Room
visitors can unwind on their deck enveloped by an olive grove
Whether seeking tranquility or therapeutic treatments
Borgo Dei Conti Resort's pools and spa promise an unparalleled journey of serenity and well-being
Set across 40 acres of Umbrian countryside
Borgo dei Conti Resort offers a variety of outdoor activities suited to different interests and energy levels
The estate features a newly built padel court
a modern fitness center fully outfitted with Technogym equipment
and a tennis court suited for casual games or more focused practice
The historic grounds of the resort are a playground for nature lovers
Meandering walking trails wind through a century-old park
a vegetable-and herb-filled botanical enclave—whose ingredients supply the estate's gourmet restaurants—and manicured Italian gardens set a serene backdrop for peaceful exploration
settle into plush armchairs and chaise lounges at the outdoor cinema in Borgo Park
where curated film selections unfold beneath a peaceful star-studded sky
a charming cottage perfect for a candlelit gourmet dinner
With every dish prepared by a private chef and paired with exceptional wines—local and international—this is a culinary escape unlike any other
Guests can also indulge in a countryside picnic surrounded by the scents and flavors of Umbria
where fresh honey is harvested onsite and is available to sample & purchase
Additional immersive experiences include wine tastings
and hands-on cooking classes steeped in Umbrian tradition
Borgo dei Conti Resort is more than a destination—it's an invitation to connect with nature
all thoughtfully tailored to each traveler's needs
Borgo dei Conti Resort is part of The Hospitality Experience (a.k.a THE) - a new collection of luxury Italian properties owned and operated by the Babini Family that features three hotels in its current collection
and the iconic Londra Palace Venezia (Venice) and the Borgo dei Conti Resort
Since purchasing their first property in 1938
the family has focused on preserving historical assets with architectural heritage and cultural significance
Under the current leadership of CEO Carlo Babini
The Hospitality Experience was formed to unite these iconic addresses under one management group and offer unparalleled service to its guests
Hotel website
ItalyChevron
PugliaChevron
Savelletri di FasanoChevron
Start us off with the basics: What's the vibe of this place?Even prettier now than when it opened in 2009 as the prettiest hotel in the Mediterranean. The plants and vines have grown, the tufu limestone has mellowed, the staff have bedded in, and the feel that this is a genuine Puglian village (even though it was built entirely from scratch) has been sealed. It's just dreamy. At night, rosemary, jasmine, and lemon scents the air and a galaxy of lanterns light the way to the bar.
Lovely. So what's the story behind the place?A family business of the highest order, handed down from mother to son. The Melpignanos also own nearby San Domenico (with a wonderful thalasso spa), Masseria Cimino (a perfectly quiet bolthole for a grown-up break), and Masseria Le Carrube (where the vegan restaurant is stellar). But Borgo Egnazia steals the show.
How so? What are the rooms like?Soaring and elegant, cool stone underfoot, mini posies of dried lavender on shelves, huge linen cushions, and sun-trap terraces. Everything is floaty white. With layers of creamy beige. Overlapping rugs on chairs and cozy corners where you can retreat. They are retreats in themselves: some, the Casetta townhouses at Il Borgo, with their own little kitchens; others, the villas, with swimming pools, or sea views from the rooftops.
How's the dining?The restaurants, La Frasca and Due Camini (freshly Michelin-starred), are smart, with the most covetable traditional Italian splatterware plates and bowls. Ingredients straight from the fields you see around you: broccoli, tomatoes, eggplants, little ear-shaped orecchiette made with the local semolina flour, very good olive oil. Da Frisella is a godsend for children, for help-yourself please-all bowls of pasta and plenty of coloring activities.
What are the staff members like?All sweetness and light, ushering you to another delicious nook to sit in while they mix the strongest G&T or prepare your bill for check out. They are proud Puglians, relishing the chance to show off their perfect patch of Italy—cycling, riding, or even in the tuk-tuk to the nearby ruins for a picnic lunch.
How would you describe your fellow visitors?Turbo chic. The quickest way to fit in is to buy a whole new wardrobe at the Bottega Egnazia boutique, where you can double the cost of your holiday in an instant with Nannacay baskets, Innikachoo floaty numbers, Allagiulia velvet espadrilles, and dressmaker Marta Ferri’s bespoke and beautiful dresses (Margherita Missoni is a huge fan).
And what's the surrounding area like?Fields of immaculately tended vegetables growing in regimented lines, soon to end up on your plate for supper. And the sea is only a few moments away, as is the hotel’s beach club Cala Masciola—terribly smart, with thick cushioned sun beds, plus huge lobsters in tanks to select for lunch.
Wrap it up for us—what's the real draw here?How the place manages to be so intrinsically child-friendly yet also so mind-blowingly romantic is a feat of design brilliance. Wildly pretty during the day when the harsh Puglian sun hits the mellow tufu limestone buildings and the shocking bright bougainvillea, and even lovelier at night when the entire place is lit by citronella lanterns, smoking into the warm air.
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“I am actually not cool enough to go to Diner
Nobody I know is cool enough,” the Daily News critic wrote in 1999
But planting a flag in no-man’s-land, as Tarlow jokingly called the area earlier this year, is one of the only ways Borgo resembles the Diner or Achilles Heel of yore. What I love about Borgo is how little it seems to worry itself about being cool. As an aspiration, there is nothing wrong with that — I recently reviewed, and enjoyed, Bridges
a restaurant that seems hell-bent on being cool — but Borgo from the start has possessed an assured maturity
The tables in its two dining rooms are graciously spaced
The noise level is pitched at a slightly more accommodating din
A millworker friend I brought to dinner pointed out that even the wood used for the warm
with their gentle archways and Quakerish simplicity
unlike the clean boards his clients pay extra for
Restauranting is typically a young man’s game: hard on the knees
The same beloved fava purée that is an unremovable mainstay of Roman’s is on the menu here with the same She Wolf sourdough
I was tempted to ding its inclusion for unoriginality
but who begrudges the National for playing “Mr
Fort Greene is two subway lines away at least
The most novel menu item on an early iteration was a saucer-size timballo
the Abruzzese showstopper that’s the region’s answer to lasagna
It alone seemed made for the purpose of attracting attention
but it was little where a timballo should be grandiose (remember Big Night?)
and the most excellent skewers of veal sweetbreads
tender and charred in a glaze of coffee liqueur and lemon
whose bitter bass note and puckery bite shouldn’t work together but do
The beef-cheek ragù I’d enjoyed in the timballo has been repurposed
but I didn’t find myself longing for meat at all in the sunchoke ravioli
The wood-burning oven roars to the fore for the mains
There is a roast chicken and a thick slice of roast lamb with prunes
I happily ate both before deciding my personal favorite was the ever-present branzino
whose flattened flesh and fire-crisped skin concealed a heady jam of onion
We ordered the check with dessert and made short work of an excellent
The Millworkers had to relieve the babysitter
This is food that shows off without showing off
This takes nothing away from the great young chefs in this kitchen (Tarlow’s son Elijah is among them) and others
or the great young restaurateurs who push it all forward
But gray-bearded excellence is excellence of a special kind
Family RootsNotice that the dessert list leans Austrian with Sacher torte and strudel
That’s a nod to Tarlow’s Viennese grandfather
Walk-ins to the FrontBorgo is another new restaurant that saves its bar and front-room tables for walk-ins
It’s big enough that you might even get a seat
the back garden — currently occupied by a sculpture by Marlow regular Gabrielle Shelton — will open for full service
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Award-winning journalist and author Karina Sainz Borgo’s latest novel No Place to Bury the Dead (HarperVia
2024; translated by Elizabeth Bryer) tells a sharp story of belonging
and identity inspired by true accounts of the migrant crises
Fleeing a plague that leaves its victims with amnesia
Angustias finds herself caught in a fierce land battle between a vigilante woman who oversees the cemetery and violent gangs
the novel asks: who has the right to bury their dead
And how far would you go to bury your loved ones
I could not do fiction without the gymnasium of journalism
Journalism teaches you to work with very few elements: very little money
it’s like you’re an infantryman and you’re moving forward with your helmet
to amputate your leg when you have to amputate someone’s leg
but you need literature to illuminate a new version of that world
I am 41 years old and I started in journalism when I was 17
Journalism has vaccinated me from rhapsodism
and has put my feet very much on the ground
Perhaps the only thing that I dislike about journalism is the truth
because a journalist is obliged to give answers
I have decided to turn to the elements of classical tragedy
Antigone as a plot has always disarmed me: it radiographs a sick society and the capacity of individuals to resist moral poverty
I think that the basis of Antigone as a character
and as an allegory that gives life to these women
disobeys a law to do what she considers just and right
because it alludes to the ‘passion’ in its western iconography
In this allegorical territory proposed by the novel
This novel seeks the notion of the other as someone in need of pity
we live compartmentalized in a world bent on its own foolishness and unwilling to compromise on its prejudices and obsessions
In this novel there is a great plea for friendship and solidarity
my childhood sensibility is telluric: my language
my balcony to the world for the last 15 years has been Spain
Some of the writers I most admire have worked with it
which is the name of a tree very present in the work of Juan Rulfo
I insist: the symbolic is sometimes much more powerful
The third country is the resulting space in a border territory
In this novel there is a border between the living and the dead
I think the English translation is very accurate
The place where the dead rest is political
Memory is the foundation stone on which we can build something lasting
Most totalitarianisms have tried to manipulate it
to use it for ideological purposes or directly to dynamite it
The mass grave as an image is very explicit: when a society is incapable of giving a human being even a piece of land and a box so that vermin do not eat it
apart from the fact that you are doing a restoration
Someone has to know that someone died there and why they died
to make sense of the tropical and fierce world in which I was born
I have not returned to my country for almost twenty years and the trip that motivated this book was directly to the border
but it says even more in the way it treats its dead
The denial of a burial is a denial of civility
of the most elementary compassion and the right to memory
It is a right that the protagonists demand and defend
I have been surprised by the positive and empathetic way it has been received in countries such as France
whose relationship with migrants is also complex
It is a theme that is present in everything I write and I try not to lose sight of it
The arrival of a human being to life is as abrupt as his departure
Visitación Salazar says it in a passage of the novel: not everyone can be born
I want you to keep an idea in mind: What would happen if a higher power prevented you from giving a dignified burial to the person you love the most
Karina Sainz Borgo was born and raised in Caracas
She began her career as a journalist for El Nacional
she has written for Vozpópuli and collaborates with the literary magazine Zenda
Tráfico y Guaire and Caracas Hip-Hop and the novel It Would Be Night in Caracas
No Place to Bury the Dead won the the 2023 Jan Michalski Prize
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A snapshot of Borgo from restaurateur Andrew Tarlow
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Longtime Brooklyn restaurateur Andrew Tarlow has opened his first Manhattan restaurant, and in a likely nod to his roots, he’s named it Borgo — Italian for “village.” Tarlow’s Brooklyn spots are located in some of the borough’s most charming neighborhoods
starting with the opening of Diner circa 1998 and its impact on a corner of Williamsburg
A handful of restaurants and 25 years later — following Italian restaurant Roman’s in Bed-Stuy, Achilles Heel bar in Greenpoint, She Wolf Bakery (mostly at farmers markets), Stranger Wines, and so on — Tarlow has brought his Brooklyn sensibility to Manhattan in a storied space that was home to Italian mainstay I Trulli from 1994 until it closed in 2022
The vibe: The restaurant at 124 E. 27th Street, at Park Avenue South, seems to attract a local arts-and-letters set; there’s lots of standout eyewear around the room. It’s a contrast to, say, the Corner Store
This is the kind of space you want to hang out in for the night
and the vibe starts with groupings of actual candles in candlesticks scattered on tables around the room
That fire theme is reinforced in the wood-fired oven and logs flanking a mantel
White tablecloths are dressed down with a layer of butcher paper marked by the name of the reservation written in cursive across the center
The sloped ceiling feels like the inside of a wine cave and yet there’s plenty of light
particularly in the back of the main dining room
The service: As a Tarlow regular might expect
and there’s likely something to prove coming with the group’s first Manhattan location in a grand room with 140 seats
Word on the street seems to indicate it’s one of the most difficult restaurant years since 2009
which means service is tighter all over — because it has to be
What to know: The room can get loud the way restaurants used to be pre-pandemic
try to get a table by the glass doors to the back garden: It’s the best spot for people-watching
If you don’t want to pay for a Sicilian Frapatto from Occhipinti (though $108 is not bad for a restaurant price)
consider the less expensive wines by the glass or bottle from Umbria or Campania (there are French and American pours
Borgo is also a good restaurant to explore Italian wines
Welcome to Grub Street’s 2024 Fall Restaurant Preview
we’re diving into the upcoming openings we’re most excited about
Twenty-six years ago, Andrew Tarlow, his then-business partner Mark Firth, and a young chef named Caroline Fidanza opened Diner
the Williamsburg restaurant that transformed the Brooklyn dining scene and
Thousands of Manhattanites braved the borough for the privilege of ordering its cheeseburger and beet salad
so Tarlow has set sail to distant shores again
this time to a 9,000-square-foot space that — while on the border of Flatiron
and Gramercy — does not feel like it is in a particular neighborhood of its own
“We’ve all seen what happened to Williamsburg — no one is going to knock down these buildings and put up ugly condos here.”
“but he’s been working in restaurants since he was 10.” (Elijah will be joined
whom Tarlow wants to lure in as a hostess.) “All my kids have grown up inside these restaurants
as part of this whole community of people,” Tarlow says
Heading the kitchen at Borgo is Jordan Frosolone
a 48-year-old father of two who worked for Tom Colicchio and Marco Canora
and I’m interested in how we build restaurants and age in them.” There is room for 140 diners
and the menu — old-fashioned and large — has a picture of Librizzi
On offer are dishes such as the Sicilian garlic dip scurdalia
made with Italian almonds; ancient-grain spaghetti with Calabrian anchovies and chiles; and pork ribs with fennel pollen
Tarlow’s restaurants have always operated in the substrate of fine dining
in a real way without sounding goofy,” explains Tarlow
“I want people to feel fulfilled by the experience.”
Everything is designed to be timeless in that hazy
has been refinished and expanded; the archways have a graceful
have dug up and elevated the fireplace that sits between two dining rooms so it now rests at eye level
And the unusually large garden in the back houses a metal sculpture by Gabrielle Shelton
Willa Moore
Adequate space between tables at restaurants
Borgo can help with that last one—and the flickering taper candles and white tablecloths might help with the other two as well
Williamsburg
Dinner or brunch at Diner is required NYC eating
American
Nomad
but that doesn’t mean you can’t love Hillstone
Willa was raised in Brooklyn and now lives in Brooklyn
which means her favorite bagel place hasn't changed since birth
Along the ultra-chic Amalfi coast between the villages of Amalfi and Positano at the first new luxury hotel to open locally in the last 15 years
Despite the proximity to two tourist trodden towns
Give me the lowdown: The sapphire Mediterranean Sea lazily laps at Borgo Santandrea’s lounge chair-lined private beach
as the 52-room luxury hotel – built into an ancient rock face overlooking it – presides 90 meters above
in 2021 two families from nearby Ischia with hospitality roots reopened the former Grand Hotel Saraceno
while honouring its history through details including Italian craftsmanship
Perfectly capturing the essence of la dolce vita
Borgo Santandrea is where rugged old-world charm jives with Mid-Century modern ideals and contemporary sophistication
White and blue shades characterise this chic abode that’s filled with vintage furniture and artifacts from iconic 1960s-era architect and designer Gio Ponti
Borgo Santandrea is one of the few local hotels with a private beach club
an expansive pool that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea
Locally-minded: Borgo Santandrea channels classic Italian seaside charm
The hotel’s design team includes architect Bonaventura Gambardella and interior designer Nikita Bettoni
who can always be relied upon to envision a retro-modern Mediterranean style
In addition to Mid-Century vintage furniture
ceramics and pottery from Amalfitano artisans
the hotel was decorated with 39 different types of geometric hand-made
hand-painted tiles inspired by the modernist-Italian work of Gio Ponti
Eating and drinking: Led by executive chef Crescenzo Scotti
Borgo Santandrea’s signature fine dining restaurant Alici – with its panoramic patio and regional
seasonal Mediterranean menu – earned its first Michelin star last year
The property’s three additional dining and drinking outlets
Beach Restaurant & Bar and Il Plumbago Bar
honour the same culinary ethos albeit through more unbuttoned experiences with toes
Andrew Tarlow’s Borgo debuts with rustic Italian dishes and wood-fired cooking
After all these years, what is it that pulls serial Brooklyn restaurateur, Andrew Tarlow, across the river? It turns out it’s the stunning, 2,400 square-foot space with a wood-fired oven where I Trulli resided since 1994. Rustic Italian newcomer Borgo opens for dinner at 124 E
debuts as a trattoria with a wood-burning oven
“It’s really epic,” Tarlow says of the hearth in a walk-through
The space features two large rooms with arched entryways
The food parallels a bit with Roman’s in Fort Greene
featuring seasonal Italian dishes and straightforward Italian mains
Yet the size of the restaurants allows the kitchen to be a bit more ambitious
“The bigger kitchen and the bigger facilities allow me to do more: It’s like the alligators grow as big as their tank kind of thing.”
It’s been two years or so since he first visited the restaurant to the opening
but make no mistake: “When I walked in the doors,” he said
Chef Jordan Frosolone heads the kitchen – an alum of Momofuku as the former director of culinary operations
a chef de cuisine of Marco Canora’s Hearth
Joining him in the kitchen among others there’s Tarlow’s son
who previously was the head chef of Mimi’s
Over in drinks, Lee Campbell is in the fold, a sommelier at Tarlow’s restaurants in the mid-aughts, who became a consultant and is back again
even as it’s only dinner from 5 to 10:30 p.m
“I understand the difficulties in working in this industry,” Tarlow says
“and making sure that we are taking care of ourselves and still being able to do this kind of work as we age into it,” Opening this restaurant at this juncture
I would like to be able to do this work for another 20 years for sure: not just as the one who’s like signing the checks and paying the bills.”
The Pontiff took part in the session dedicated to artificial intelligence
Pope Francis he participated in the G7 in Borgo Egnazia at the invitation of the Prime Minister
to take part in the session dedicated to artificial intelligence
The Pope arrived by helicopter welcomed by the Prime Minister amidst jokes and laughter
It was the first time a Pope attended a G7 summit
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even the most ardent Tuscany fanatic may have felt their enthusiasm dim a little
the Italian region best known as the birthplace of the Renaissance still boasts the same wonders it always has—treasures of art history
and those iconic streets lined with cypress trees—but post-pandemic
not only has “revenge travel” seen the area near-overwhelmed with tourists
but hotel prices have skyrocketed to eyewatering figures
the more savvy traveler has begun to turn their gaze elsewhere
which opened just a few weeks ago near the charming village of Montepetriolo
and looks (and feels) like a medieval Italian village preserved in aspic
where the drama begins—courtesy of an imposing gatehouse
that could have been plucked straight out of one of the early Renaissance landscape paintings you might find in Perugia’s Palazzo dei Priori
A winding road then leads you up to a pair of monumental Lebanese cedar trees that shade the facade of the main building: an equally striking edifice that may initially appear to be a remarkably well-maintained medieval palace
but was in fact largely built in the early 20th century for the noble Rossi-Scotti family
who wanted the feel of a historic castle but with all the latest mod-cons
First converted to a hotel in the early 2000s—hence the fully grown-in landscaping—the hotel has lain dormant for the past two years while its owners
the group behind the Londra Palace in Venice and The Place in Florence
halving the room count to just 40 generously proportioned rooms and suites
Photo: Dario GarofaloStepping through the doorway
airy lobby reveals the fruits of that labor immediately: the skeleton of the building
with frescoes trimming the ceilings and monumental fireplaces
but given a modish update with sleek brass accents and mid-century-inspired light fixtures
with a welcome breeze rustling through the olive trees and winding its way through the building; the doors are flung open so you can wander in and out of the building’s rabbit-warren corridors
or take a late afternoon aperitivo in the courtyard
I was led to the hotel’s flagship Cedri restaurant—named after those century-old cedar trees—where executive chef Emanuele Mazzella had whipped up a tasting menu spotlighting local ingredients
with many herbs and vegetables coming from within the estate itself
(Highlights included a dish of plump ravioli parcels stuffed with suckling pig and lemon
as well as a decadent—and in its earthiness
very Umbrian—plate of veal with black truffle.)
Photo: Dario GarofaloThe following morning
I was led on a tour of the property by the hotel’s charming general manager
He was keen to point out every design detail—and for good reason
as the various elements that make up the interiors
which were overseen by the Milanese firm Spagnulo and Partners
Many of the textiles you’ll find on headboards and cushions are sourced from Giuditta Brozzetti
a local textile atelier situated in the heart of Perugia
and the patterns of terracotta that detail the hotel’s floors came from nearby Montone; the delicate color palettes of each room
take their cues from the works of Renaissance masters like Perugino and Raphael
one of the two main suites in the central villa
came complete with original stone fireplaces and frescoed ceilings
If the building does not actually date back to Umbria’s boom period in the 14th and 15th centuries
once you’re tucked away in your room it certainly feels like it does
Photo: Dario GarofaloEqually impressive is the deceptively large spa
which features a range of bells and whistles: sure
and a sauna with views across the hotel’s 40-acre grounds
but you’ll also find a Himalayan salt room in one corner
as well as a space-age room along one corridor containing a sensory deprivation tank
There are also small indoor and outdoor heated swimming pools
which make a convincing case for the hotel as a year-round resort getaway—the mental image of holing up on a crisp autumn evening with a plate of truffle pasta and a fire roaring nearby sounds incredibly appealing
if you’re visiting Umbria for the first time
there’s plenty in the area you’ll want to do
whether that’s breezing through the museums in Perugia—the team at Borgo dei Conti will be delighted to set you up with a visit to the Giuditta Brozzetti textile workshop—or stopping by Lake Trasimenno
(If you fancy the ultimate la dolce vita experience Umbria has to offer—and are also something of a thrill-seeker—look into renting a vintage Alfa Romeo Spider and taking it for a drive around the scenic hilltops surrounding the lake.)
Photo: Dario GarofaloOn the weekend I visited
I had zero urge to leave the delightful world of Borgo dei Conti
which lived up to its name—at least in the sense that I felt like the resort was my own little village to wander around
I went for a walk through both the English- and Italian-style gardens and spent a lazy morning in a cabana by the pool
I pulled up a chair at the laid-back Osteria del Borgo
where I wolfed down a plate of beef carpaccio followed by an outrageously delicious pizza with a perfectly blistered
To cap off my incredibly busy and stressful day of wandering and lounging
where a sauna and soak followed by a deep tissue massage left me practically floating
there was the option to watch a classic Italian movie at the resort’s outdoor cinema—but the crisp linen sheets of my bed were already calling my name.)
Photo: Dario GarofaloBorgo dei Conti’s secret sauce is that it offers a little bit of everything: it can be a base to explore the historical and cultural wonders of one of Italy’s lesser-explored regions; a romantic getaway for couples looking to wine
and lounge by the pool; or allow design lovers seeking to immerse themselves in Italian craftsmanship to shop their way around the textile mills of Perugia or the boutiques of Orvieto
It’s the kind of place that feels likely to become a word-of-mouth hit—so if you’re tempted to look further afield than Tuscany
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Militello in Val di Catania is the Borgo dei Borghi 2025
during the final of Rai Cultura’s program “Il Borgo dei Borghi,” hosted by Camila Raznovich
which every year guides viewers on a journey through Italy’s most fascinating villages
It was a victory loaded with significance for the Sicilian center
which prevailed over nineteen other candidates - one for each region - winning the title of most beautiful village in Italy
Militello in Val di Catania joins a list of villages that have managed to win the hearts of Italians
a growth in tourist interest in this splendid Sicilian reality
nestled at the foot of Mount Etna.A triumph that rewards not only the architectural and scenic beauty of Militello
but also its deep historical and cultural identity
Camila Raznovich led viewers along an itinerary that spanned the entire peninsula
highlighting the authentic beauty of well-known and lesser-known villages
with the help of three jurors: Alberta Campitelli
garden historian and member of the Superior Council for Cultural and Landscape Heritage of the Ministry of Culture; Barbara Gallavotti
biologist and science popularizer; and Jacopo Veneziani
art historian and well-known face of television popularization
The three experts talked about some of the most beautiful corners of Italy: Alberta Campitelli led the audience to Valeggio sul Mincio
among the wonders of the Parco Giardino Sigurtà
one of the most famous botanical gardens in the world; Barbara Gallavotti went to the Trebbia Valley
the winning village of the 2019 edition; while Jacopo Veneziani enchanted with images of Lake Garda
between Sirmione and the Vittoriale degli Italiani
it was Militello in Val di Catania that came out on top
in a hilly area straddling Mount Etna and the Val di Noto
Militello is a veritable treasure trove of Baroque art
the town experienced its heyday between the 17th and 18th centuries
under the influence of the great Sicilian noble families
which affected the entire southeastern area of the island
the town was largely rebuilt in the Baroque style
giving rise to an urban layout and architectural heritage now recognized by UNESCO as part of the serial site “The Late Baroque Cities of the Val di Noto.”
Walking through the streets of Militello is like stepping back in time: the churches
squares and fountains tell centuries of history and art
Among its gems are the Mother Church of San Nicolò and the Santissimo Salvatore
the Sanctuary of Santa Maria della Stella-with its famous marble statue of the Madonna of the same name attributed to Francesco Laurana-and the Barresi-Branciforte Castle
a symbol of feudal power and residence of the princes who marked the town’s history
But Militello is not only architecture: it is also living tradition
the Sicilian village won over audience and jury with the tale of its authentic soul
centuries-old rituals such as the Feast of Our Lady of the Star
and a gastronomy that mixes intense flavors and Mediterranean scents
It is this mix that makes it unique: being both a testimony to a glorious past and a vital community
ready to face the challenges of the present
Participation in “The Village of Villages” has represented an extraordinary showcase for Militello
bringing into the national spotlight an area that is often little known to the general public
but very rich in natural beauty and artistic treasures
A candidacy enthusiastically supported by its inhabitants
A result that also rewards commitment to the enhancement of the territory and the promotion of sustainable cultural tourism
Agliè’s second place is no less impressive in terms of charm. Located in the heart of Canavese, Piedmont, Agliè is famous for its imposing castle
a Savoy residence and UNESCO heritage site
and a refined historic center surrounded by hills and vineyards
the village was able to tell a story related to Piedmontese nobility and the elegance of its 18th-century architecture
dominated by the Ruspoli castle with its Italian garden
enchanted for its perfect balance of nature
Also known for its historic wine production
Vignanello offered an authentic image of rural and cultural Lazio
flavors and landscapes that are still intact
This is the rest of the ranking: 4th place Aieta (Calabria)
17th Ala (Trentino Alto-Adige),1 8th Sirolo (Marche)
The Borgo Laudato Si’ is preparing to welcome pilgrims and visitors to the magnificent setting of the Papal Gardens at Castel Gandolfo
which has been greatly desired by Pope Francis
and which is now offered as part of the Holy Year experience
offers visitors information on integral ecology
and is open to all those who wish to deepen their connection with Creation
which extends over 35 hectares of gardens and 20 hectares of agricultural land
is home to over 3,000 plants belonging to 300 different species
and offers an immersive experience in natural beauty
Pilgrims who wish to visit the Gardens during their stay in Rome
will also be able to explore the archaeological remains of the Villa of the Roman Emperor Domitian
A visit is recommended for pilgrims coming to Rome for the 2025 Jubilee Year
The initiative aims to promote a deeper reflection on ecological themes and on the importance of our responsibility towards the planet
as highlighted by the Pope in the Encyclical Laudato Si’
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Rashid* comes from Afghanistan and spends several months each year in Borgo Mezzanone
His family lives in Sweden – his wife and four children
Rashid has managed to establish something meaningful here
He has set up a small grocery shop and a catering business
entrusting the daily management to young people from the settlement whom he trusts
providing them with stable employment in a place where work is often seasonal and precarious
harvesting tomatoes and seasonal vegetables
he opened the first restaurant in the settlement
transforming his home into a gathering place
where anyone can stop to enjoy his food or listen to music
Situated in the agricultural heart of Capitanata
Borgo Mezzanone is just over twenty minutes from Foggia
it has gradually transformed into a genuine community
Necessity has driven many to create opportunities: clothing and shoe stalls
local economy has emerged – one where people support each other
one gets the impression of a miniature city
The former airstrips serve as the main arteries
while the inner areas house makeshift dwellings
where instability and the absence of basic services coexist with resilience and reinvention
yet the people here have found ways to transform a place born from waiting into a vibrant and enduring reality
INTERSOS’ mobile clinic has been a vital point of reference for the residents of the settlement
providing medical care and socio-health guidance
helping to ensure equitable access to healthcare and improving the living conditions of those who call Borgo Mezzanone home
*Fictitious names have been used to protect the identities of the individuals
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I study medicine at Sana’a University
this is a privilege for me in a country like Yemen
Achieving this goal has not been easy; studying medicine has always been a dream for me
but my family’s limited economic resources and the poor educational offerings in my country have made my path more difficult
I never stopped believing that I could make a difference
to be able to treat as many people as possible who as of today do not have access to care
I imagine that one day there may be a hospital where getting treatment can be the norm and no longer a right of a few
I am studying telecommunications engineering
I chose it because I was always amused by the technologies
It has a good outlook for the future because
And communication is something that is very important in daily life
the possibilities will never end in this field
My parents are divorced and my mother was a teacher trying to take care of four children
The only way I could continue my studies was to get the scholarship
This financial support allowed me to reshape my life to better pursue my university studies
I was working while studying at the university
and with the scholarship I was able to reduce my working hours and devote more time to studying
A great weight was lifted off my shoulders thanks to the DAFI scholarship
This scholarship really gave me a second chance to achieve my goals and work to my full potential
I currently work as an education officer in INTERSOS and strive to never stop learning and developing my skills by enrolling and attending some courses and conferences
My dream is to help others realize their dream
I want to live free and help others to live free and fulfilled
another of my biggest dreams is to continue my studies and do a master’s degree
which is the best path for career development and a better future
I am 24 years old and grew up in Al Dhalea governorate in northern Yemen
I am a fourth-year medical student at the Faculty of Medicine
I chose medicine because I have a strong interest and passion for science
driven by an innate desire to do what I can to help people who are suffering
the medical profession is one of the most coveted in the world
I learned the meaning of the words commitment
The Lavazza Foundation scholarship has helped me overcome many challenges
which has been a constant source of concern for me
the scholarship is an essential support for daily expenses
something changed in my approach and now I have a more positive outlook on life
I started studying with a smile and realize how lucky I am to have had this opportunity
I engage more with my classmates and ask the lecturers whenever there is something I don’t understand
but I continue to try my best and hope everything goes well
I have to believe that I am capable of becoming a good doctor
In the past I used to joke about the possibility of becoming a doctor: today I am a fourth-year medical student and I got a scholarship that allows me to believe in a dream coming true
to have the resources to make myself presentable and never give up
The scholarship has ignited in me a renewed sense of optimism
after graduation I would like to continue my studies and pursue a master’s degree
My future seemed already written: a life of deprivation
I was just a child and already carrying on my shoulders the weight of a particularly complex context for women who are often denied choices
everything changed with my determination not to accept a destiny already set
I decided to study and have a different future
I managed to enroll in the Faculty of Dentistry
Then came the scholarship that is allowing me to continue my academic journey and get closer and closer to my goal: to become a dentist
Doa’a is a student under our “Scholarships for the Education of Yemeni Youth” project funded by the Lavazza Foundation
Doa’a’s story is one of resilience and hope
our intervention in Yemen has not only provided access to medical care and essential goods or protection for people who survived violence
We have also supported education because we believe that the only way to overcome conflict is to invest in the education of the younger generation
Wael has been stateless since the registry office of the town where he lived burned down during the civil war
His five children are also stateless: the sons are painters
Wael’s wife runs a small shop where she sells household products for third parties
she cannot afford the necessary treatment and she doesn’t know how to carry on
Lina has always lived in Lebanon but has always remained stateless
She works as a cleaner by the hour to help her family
With what she earned and some help from her friends
she managed to get two of her daughters to continue their studies
Esther arrived from Ethiopia ten years ago
looking for work to help her ailing mother
She found only temporary jobs as a domestic worker
She was repeatedly harassed by her employees
never registered the marriage and Esther soon discovered his drug addiction (the pills and white powder around the house were not medicines for toothache
especially when she refused to act as a courier for drugs outside Beirut
he locked her up in a room for days and tortured her with cigarette burns
who were never spared mistreatment and beatings
when her husband was about to throw a pot of boiling water on her
Esther started screaming so loudly that she alarmed the neighbors
He ended up in prison but for a short time
A Lebanese association that supports women survivors of violence offered refuge to Esther and her two children
who remained stateless because their births were never registered
from which she receives material and legal assistance
She is still afraid to move freely and meet her abusive husband
but her family was exterminated during the civil war
Amara arrived in Beirut in 2012 from Addis Ababa
Like tens of thousands of other migrant workers
her stay in Lebanon is framed by the so-called “Kafala” system
a sponsorship that often turns into a form of modern slavery
providing a precarious legal status that prevents them from registering their children of Lebanese origin
Amara married a Lebanese taxi driver and had three children
must provide documentary proof of being previously unmarried
And how could Amara prove that she was not already married in Ethiopia before leaving the country
although the father recognised the three children
because he could not present the requested documentation to the registry office
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New York
he traveled across the bridge, opening up in Manhattan for the first time
RECOMMENDED: 12 of NYC’s most anticipated new restaurants for fall of 2024
Bringing a continental trattoria to Nomad comes the latest from Tarlow: Borgo
Once he happened upon the former I Trulli location
“It’s my dream restaurant,” Tarlow said in a press release
“We’ve been wanting to build something new for a long time
to apply and refine everything we’ve learned and experienced on a new level
and to celebrate our particular style and love for food
wine and hospitality with a broader audience
We waited patiently but eagerly for the right opportunity
and when I walked in here I knew this was it.”
His latest follows the philosophy of his other restaurants
producer and grower-focused with local ingredients taking the wheel
the cuisine is Italian and much of it leans on the wood-fired oven
while the chicken with celery root and marsala and the whole branzino cook and get that noted char
One of the most popular dishes comes the drum-shaped Timballo di Anelletti
also kissed by the oven. A layered dish filled with anelleti noodles
the pasta dish is draped in ricotta salata
But just like many other of Tarlow’s restaurants
vegetables reign supreme as the shareable Chicories salad and marinated artichokes with hunks of buffalo mozzarella stand all their own
All can be enjoyed at the marble bar for a casual fete
at one of the many white tablecloth tables or on the verdant back patio
Don’t forget—besides a solid natural wine list
Order yours and let the luxury come to you
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an experience combining the age-old pleasures of wine with modern spa treatments
Faith Katunga•Nov 4
Tuscany in Italy is among the most talked about parts of the country
The more time spent in this central Italian region’s vineyards and gentle hills
the more quickly one appreciates the allure
I was more than pleased to learn about Wine Therapy
This wellness experience combines the age-old pleasures of wine with modern spa treatments
During a weekend retreat at Borgo Casa al Vento
a scenic agriturismo tucked in the heart of Chianti
I went on a journey of relaxation and rejuvenation that left me feeling refreshed and invigorated
I came away from the experience with a newfound appreciation for the healing properties of wine
As I stepped into the wellness center at Borgo Casa al Vento
the inviting aroma of Sangiovese grapes enveloped me
This fragrance set the stage for an experience that would pique my interest in the restorative powers of wine
the vinotherapy program is a tribute to the grape’s adaptability and a celebration of the area’s viticultural history
The cornerstone of my experience was the “His and Hers” treatment
a luxurious hydromassage bath with warm water and the estate’s red wine
I couldn’t help but smile at the glass of Chianti Classico that accompanied the bath — a perfect complement to the immersive experience
The benefits of vinotherapy were immediately apparent
help to reduce stress and promote a sense of well-being
I could feel the tension melting away from my muscles
replaced by a profound sense of relaxation
The polyphenols in the wine are said to have anti-aging properties
and while I can’t attest to looking younger after one session
my skin certainly felt softer and more supple
What struck me most about the vinotherapy at Borgo Casa al Vento was the holistic approach
The treatment room near the vineyards that produced the wine I was bathing in created a connection to the land that deepened my appreciation for the experience
While my experience at Borgo Casa al Vento was exceptional
Italy offers other notable destinations for those seeking to indulge in vinotherapy
another Tuscan gem awaits for those interested in wine therapy
Adler Thermae Spa And Relax Resort takes the concept of vinotherapy to new heights with its extensive menu of grape-based treatments
visitors can lose themselves in wine-infused thermal baths
and even partake in wine-tasting sessions as part of their wellness journey
Adler Thermae Spa’s integration of local wine culture into every aspect of the experience is remarkable
The resort works closely with nearby vineyards to source the finest grapes and wines for their treatments
This method ensures that guests receive the full benefits of the region’s terroir
The spa’s signature “Brunello Ritual” is particularly enticing
combining a wine bath with a full-body massage using oils infused with Sangiovese grapes
Ca’ San Sebastiano offers an indulgent experience that combines the age-old pleasures of wine with cutting-edge spa treatments
bubbling jacuzzi filled with water and a carefully crafted blend of wine
The experience is heightened by the spa’s unique setting
once the estate’s original wine cellars
and blocks of limestone hiding small fossil treasures surround you
creating an atmosphere steeped in history and terroir
As I reflect on my experience at Borgo Casa al Vento and consider the offerings at Adler Thermae and Ca’ San Sebastiano
I’m struck by the common thread that runs through these vinotherapy experiences
but it’s also about connecting with Italy’s rich viticultural traditions in a way that nourishes both body and soul
Wine therapy, I’ve come to realize, is an appreciation of the grape in all its forms. It’s about taking the time to slow down, engross oneself in the sensory pleasures of wine country, and embrace a form of wellness that is as much about enjoyment as health benefits
My advice for those considering a wine therapy experience in Italy is simple: come with an open mind and a willingness to welcome the unexpected
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Queen Elizabeth Once Stepped In To Prevent Snoop Dogg From Being Banned From The UK
United Airlines Flight Attendant's Armrest Announcement Sparks Social Media Frenzy
‘Basketball Wives’ Star Mehgan James Speaks Out About Popular Bahamas Island With Flesh-Eating Bacteria After Friend Loses Leg
Chaos Erupts After Ethiopian Airlines Passenger Forced To Give Up Seat For Minister
Yemen's Houthi rebels launched a missile attack on Ben Gurion International Airport
causing temporary closure of Israel's main aviation hub
In each location where Black dandyism took root
and social conditions shaped its expression
A Simi Valley plane crash involving a small aircraft resulted in the deaths of its two passengers
Check out these filming sites that have added to this harrowing story of creative survival in two popular cities
Paramount+'s 'MobLand' has rapidly garnered a wide audience
thanks to its fascinating characters and gorgeous scenic backdrops
Five years after her remarkable La Fille au Bracelet
Stéphane Demoustier is back behind the camera with undisguised pleasure with Borgo
Borgo is released on VOD for purchase on August 16
moves to Corsica with her two young children and her husband
She joins a team at a prison unlike any other
it is said that it is the prisoners who watch over the guards
Melissa's integration is facilitated by Saveriu
an influential young inmate who places her under his protection
that of the execution of Antoine Quilichini and Jean-Luc Codaccioni
and the involvement of a prison guard in the tragic unfolding of events
Borgo looks back at the criminal investigation
but also - and above all - at the singular path and context that led the young woman to put her fingers in this spiral that quickly overtook her
Hafsia Herzi lends her features and strong character to Mélissa
an experienced 32-year-old housewife who has recently moved to Corsica with her two young children and husband
they try to integrate and start a new life under the sun of the Isle of Beauty
as the film takes place largely within the four walls of Borgo
Mélissa is assigned to a very special unit
a sort of "Club Med" according to those concerned
where they can spend their days outside their cells
Mélissa's integration is facilitated by Saveriu(Louis Memmi)
an influential young Corsican whom she met on the mainland at Fleury-Mérogis prison
before their transfer to the other side of the Mediterranean
Cleverly shifting between different temporalities
Borgo takes up the codes of the thriller through the medium of intimacy
trying to pinpoint the motivations of a young woman who was in no way predisposed to become an actor in such a deadly ambush
Simply the collateral damage of a pernicious situation
Stéphane Demoustier has created a fascinating new film
filled with a great humanity crystallized in a scene as cheerful as it is moving
the collective cover - in Corsican in the text - of Julien Clerc's song Mélissa
VOD: the new films to be seen on Video on Demand in August 2024Discover the new films to watch on VOD in August 2024 for enjoyable and captivating summer evenings. [Read more]
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ItalyInside one of the latest hotels turning Lake Garda into an increasingly attractive rival to ComoAll listings featured on Condé Nast Traveller are independently selected by our editors
As Italy becomes increasingly touristy – Lake Como is more visited, but Lake Garda is catching up – I found the location magical
I could walk into town but felt above the fray: looking over the lake and the banks on the other side
my view was spectacular (all of the suites have this bird's eye perspective)
a two-storey structure including a kitchen
and an outdoor terrace with a standalone bathtub hewn in local stone
and a tiny shop that sold everything from local oil to burrata and pasta (so one could cook in one’s suite’s kitchen if one didn’t want to head into town) were also on offer
this 18th-century farmhouse has been lovingly transformed into four cocooning suites (with two more to debut in 2025) by local artisans and its eco-minded Swiss owners
As the lake area grows increasingly touristy
we love how this bolthole remains secluded
but with the spectacular vista below creating the centrepiece from every angle of the property
boats sailing across the water like toy models
and spectacular hills in the distance framing ethereal sunset photo ops
The property may have only some of the amenities of a boutique hotel (NB: there is no restaurant
but it feels like a luxury villa with a number of services attached
and the whole area feels more easily enjoyed without as many tourists
who run Sonnwies (a family-only eco wellness hotel situated on a spacious mountain meadow in Lüsen
more conscious and more sustainable.” From the design to amenities
and neutral tones; each thought out for its sustainable function but with pleasant aesthetic results – stone floors that feel smooth barefoot
large sofas with soft natural fibre blankets
and cosy touches like a glass-covered fireplace
natural materials to reduce the CO2 footprint and called on neighbouring artisans to create an effortless sense of the lake’s terroir
one receives a morning breakfast box (more like a picnic basket) at 8am each morning
and local salami among the offerings (you can also order a more extensive menu for breakfast if you order the day before)
The property also offers a small menu throughout the day – I had an excellent cheese plate with artisanal marmalade after I got puckish after a hike
Much of their food comes from their partner company
The wellness amenities for now include a sleek Finnish sauna
but the property plans to add yoga retreats next season
Circled by peaceful woods and groves of olives
I loved the countryside location and the hiking routes from right outside up to Monte Baldo
But it was a quick walk down to Torri del Bonaco and an easy drive to other lakeside villages
Spend a day on the lake with a boat trip or rent a Vespa to avoid traffic on the small roads
You can even rent a sailboat and explore the Isola del Garda
Picturesque Verona is less than an hour away
Much of your arrival is taken care of before you set foot on the property
from an easy check-in to breakfast orders or excursion requests
a friendly concierge is on duty from 10am until 6pm to answer questions and make recommendations on the area
so if you have German or Italian in your arsenal
The small kitchens make it ideal for families, so you don’t have to venture out for meals every night, but beware of stairs for really little ones.
Through targeted measures, Borgo Tre avoids waste such as plastic packaging and printed matter; sustainability is the name of the game throughout the design.
With many stairs and stone paths, this property is not ideal for wheelchairs.
Tuesday | May 06 2025 |
Atmosphere Core is set to make its European debut with Borgo Monchiero Heritage by Atmosphere in Piedmont
will be the second property under the company’s ‘Heritage by Atmosphere’ portfolio.Located in the UNESCO-listed wine region known for Barolo and Barbera
Borgo Monchiero will feature 19 elegantly designed suites
a signature restaurant offering regional cuisine
and a garden terrace with panoramic vineyard views
The property will also house a restored chapel for wedding ceremonies and an exclusive spa with a sauna
Guests can relax by the outdoor pool or host intimate gatherings in the historic chapter hall.Commenting on international expansion and entering the European hospitality market
“As we continue to grow and cultivate relationships with global partners for expansion
in the last year we have made associations with a number of European businesses
These significant partnerships brought Italy to Atmosphere Core and vice versa
we now look forward to the launch of our first destination in Europe in 2026”
Borgo Monchiero owners Franco Giampetruzzi and Gian Maria Debenedetti shared their reasons for partnering with Atmosphere Core
Atmosphere Core’s ambitions to expand internationally with ‘HERITAGE BY ATMOSPHERE’ seamlessly mirrored our project plans
We needed an established operator with big ideas yet sensitive to the value of authenticity
The decision was very easy and now we forge ahead in preparation of welcoming guests in the coming year.”
With nine luxury resorts in the Maldives and upcoming properties in India and Sri Lanka
Atmosphere Core is now set to offer a one-of-a-kind retreat in northern Italy
and experiential luxury for global travellers
vivek.mittal@businessworld.in, amit.bhasin@businessworld.in
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A love story between two youths and toward a land that expresses all the power of (semi-hidden) Italian beauty
between Rocco Liggieri and Viola Nassivera
who together decided to make a vow toward their land
If you thought you had already found your little secret place away from it all where you can devote yourself to spirit
you may have yet to visit Roco and Viola's new home
Already known for their wonderful mountain lodge Borgo Eibn
which will reopen with the beautiful 2025 season
they have created in Malga Festons a unique place to temporarily get away from the world
widespread wood and quiet nature (plus 350 Limousine cows and the dozen wonderful Haflinger horses in summer)
A decidedly remote place in Sauris di Sopra (province of Udine)
and if it weren't it wouldn't be so special
a former water polo player in love with life
enthusiastic about what he does among his mountains and perpetually “got it good.” With him is Viola Nassivera
with a family behind her that has specialized in meat production and processing for about seventy years
and for “only” two lustra also engaged in the world of cured meats
The two met at a Manu Chao concert in 2014
she was fresh from a significant relationship that had recently ended
and had been brought there by a friend to have a good time
he was there with friends and was just back from many evenings of fun
and shortly thereafter they were living together
Vera's family has been in this world for generations
her grandfather was among the founders of the Prosciuttificio Wolf in Sauris and an important part of the history of Carnia
In those years his uncle needed someone to help him promote the products at various markets and fairs
so Rocco began to travel around Italy and Europe selling cured meats and cheeses
and after Viola I fell in love with that whole world
I would attend markets and sell people something I had taken part in
and at the end of the meal I would sell them everything I had brought
I discovered how great it is to create with your own hands and how much satisfaction it gives you
is a hotelier and had always had the dream of building something in his land
Their first project as a couple was the now famous Borgo Eibn
A special place with which to unplug and enjoy peace
among these myrifical mountains where you can find everything you need to feel good
Along this passionate love affair with the land
2023 that destroyed an important part of the jewel Borgo Eibn
You have to be good at seizing them and always think positive,"
Rocco and Viola have been pursuing another project not far away and just as special
where they can be happy and welcome the many fans of this kind of experience
they have recently been welcoming joyful wayfarers to a remote place called Malga Festons
a natural paradise that touches 2,000 meters above sea level
whose official opening was staged last November 30
350 Limousine cows grazing on alpine pasture
a dozen wonderful Haflinger horses roaming around this authentic farm house
sincere cooking always accompanied by wine and grappa
Rocco has specialized since the days of Borgo Eibn in the use of embers
and here he continues to do so with the "fogolar furlan"
an outdoor brazier where cooking and feeling come together during the ancient ritual of cooking over fire
It starts in the morning with breakfasts prepared by Rocco with eggs scrambled in brown butter
or tarts with homemade apricot and berry jam (with real cream)
An absolute must-try that the boys have made a flag of is the potato frico with salted cream cheese and dandelion
a majestic traditional Carnic dish of the highest enjoyment
garden minestrone with musetto and stravecchio cheese
or even goulash with polenta cooked on the typical wood-fired spolert
wine-glazed cheeks with crepes and root stock
smoked roast beef (a hybrid of bresaola and carne salada smoked in-house cut like a carpaccio) with toasted hazelnuts
baked sweet potatoes with salted cheese and rosemary
if there is one thing that will surely not be missed among these wonderful wastelands
different every day based on what is sourced from Rocco and his suppliers
A very fulfilling experience to live both in summer and winter
there will be no shortage of events such as the presence on different dates of the great chef Matteo Metullio
The flavors and smiles of Malga Festons are up there waiting for you
Website: https://www.borgoeibn.it/it
Phone: 328 668 9992
Do you want to discover the latest news and recipes of the most renowned chefs and restaurants in the world
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the famous fortified passage connecting the Vatican to Castel Sant’Angelo
has been returned to the public: a sort of..
reopened this year exactly like its counterpart in Florence (which is actually also known as the “Florentine Passetto,” while in ancient times the Borgo Passetto was also called the “Corridor”)
symbolically inserting itself on the eve of the opening of the Holy Door for the beginning of the Jubilee.Thanks to an ambitious enhancement project
the Passetto comes back to life through a permanent program of guided tours
enriched by evening routes and new access modes that emphasize its inclusive and participatory value
This milestone was made possible thanks to the synergy between the Special Superintendence of Rome
which was responsible for the securing and restoration work
and the General Directorate of Museums/Pantheon and Castel Sant’Angelo Institute
which oversaw the museological narrative and enhancement of the monument
Work began in December 2018 and was completed in March 2024: during these years
the restoration of part of the exterior wall face
part of the interior plasterwork and interior flooring was carried out
Consolidation of the part near Porta Angelica has also been carried out
a new lighting system with illuminated and emergency bodies has also been installed
and architectural barriers have been eliminated
including the installation of two elevators and the construction of a mechanized trapdoor allowing access from the upper level to the lower level
Also installed was a fiber optic backbone that will allow for the installation of other multimedia devices in the future
The Borgo Passetto is much more than a fortified corridor: it is a symbol of the history of Rome and the Church
The first fortifications in this area date back to the time of the Ostrogothic king Totila (6th century AD)
then reinforced by Pope Leo IV in the 9th century
The Passetto was designed to connect the Vatican to Castel Sant’Angelo
and its construction dates to the pontificate of Nicholas III in 1277
gave the Passetto the appearance we know today
the Passetto was the protagonist of a dramatic episode: Pope Clement VII managed to save himself from Charles V’s imperial militia by using it as an escape route
Some of the prelates and nobles who were part of the papal procession (consisting of more than 3,000 people including cardinals
ambassadors and nobles) also saved themselves
but many died during the clash (including 147 Swiss guards who found death protecting the pope’s life)
The lansquenets failed to take Castel Sant’Angelo
The Passetto lost its function as a defensive structure in the late sixteenth century
a new wall was built around the Vatican Palaces)
The current arrangement dates precisely from the time of Pius IV
Mark was raised to the point of concealing within it the turret of Nicholas V
to which a helicoidal ramp connecting to the patrol march was attached
it is now a symbol of Rome’s history
intrinsically linked to that of Castel Sant’Angelo
a place that has seen the events of imperial
The connection between the Borgo Passetto and Castel Sant’Angelo is through the Bastione San Marco
which preserves tangible traces of the different phases of fortification
embrasures and mills tell of the many lives of this space
the Bastion houses a museum exhibit that offers a journey through history and memory
thanks to emblematic works and an engaging narrative
Among the exhibits are a sculptural group depicting the meeting between Pope Eugene IV and Emperor Sigismund
The ball features an impressive engraved monogram consisting of three intertwined letters written in Latin capital letters
castellan of Castel Sant’Angelo during the pontificate of Paul III Farnese from June 1542 to April 1545
linked to the sieges that involved the Passetto during the 16th century
Also present is a marble effigy of Pope Paul IV
which was found in the Tiber at the height of Castel Sant’Angelo during work to build the embankments during the 19th century
It was identified as a fragment of the colossal statue of Pope Paul IV Carafa
according to Giorgio Vasari’s testimony
by Vincenzo de’ Rossi: the great statue
was pulled down and destroyed immediately after the pontiff’s death by the Roman people
bears a date corresponding to the period 1555-59 and is related to the flooding of the Tiber on September 17
Also exhibited is a bronze muzzle-loading cannon
which recalls the tradition of the famous midday firing
started at Castel Sant’Angelo in the first half of the 19th century
then on one of the Bastions as the sound waves propagated better from below to above
The sonnet composed by Roman poet Giuseppe Gioachino Belli
Er Passetto de Castel Sant’Angiolo in 1845
concludes with “benedizione e ccannonate a ppalla,” thus recalling Castello’s historical and military function regarding artillery
The exhibit also includes a multimedia installation
lead visitors along an itinerary that runs from the Mascherino Tower on Leonine City Square to the Bastione San Marco at Castel Sant’Angelo
The route alternates between two distinct levels: the upper level
evokes the secret atmosphere of the corridor used by the Pontiffs as a safe escape route
A crucial aspect of the project is the commitment to accessibility
Thanks to a new elevator at the Mascherino Tower
dedicated tours for visitors with mobility difficulties will be activated starting in January
allowing them to overcome the architectural barriers of a place originally designed to be inaccessible and secret
The reconfiguration of the slopes and the installation of elevators along the route ensure that everyone has the opportunity to enjoy this extraordinary experience
Guided tours are for groups of 25 people and include three different formulas: the guided day tour to the Passetto and Bastione San Marco without entrance to Castel Sant’Angelo (4 euros + 12 for the mandatory one-hour guided tour)
the guided day tour integrated with the ordinary entrance to Castel Sant’Angelo (16 euros + 10 for the tour) and the special night tour that includes the guided tour to the Passetto and an evocative walk inside Castel Sant’Angelo between the Bastions and Sala Paolina
with no other public present (4 euros + 24 for the special guided tour)
The reopening of the Passetto is but the first step in a larger project
thanks to the collaboration between the Ministry of Culture and the museum institutions involved
further interventions are planned to protect and enhance the monument
with the aim of making the Passetto increasingly accessible and inclusive
designed to bring younger people closer to the history of the Passetto
a program of special openings will be launched that will allow visitors to explore the monument on their own and admire the Eternal City from a unique perspective
The sprawling, live-action series Star Wars: Skeleton Crew (2024-25) is like a map leading to a visual effects treasure chest. Open it, and you’ll find a trove of 3,200 visual effects shots that seamlessly blend the latest digital artistry along with traditional techniques that both innovate and honor the unique legacy of Industrial Light & Magic.
In creating a new adventure story set in our favorite galaxy far, far away, Skeleton Crew creators and executive producers Jon Watts and Christopher Ford set a delightfully retro tone for the series, which directly informed ILM’s approach to the visual effects.
“Very early on, it was apparent that a big part of the intended charm of the show was that it was going to have this sort of Amblin, 80’s movie sort of vibe to it,” Skeleton Crew production visual effects supervisor John Knoll tells ILM.com. “That extends to more than just how you tell the stories. It also extends to choices like embracing animatronics, monsters, and building miniatures and stop-motion creatures.”
Pulling it off would involve hundreds of talented artists at ILM studios around the globe, including San Francisco, Sydney, Mumbai, and Vancouver, along with a few outside visual effects partners.
A post shared by Clayton Sandell (@claytonsandell)
Be sure to listen to recent episses of Making Tracks for our chats with Ravi Cabot Conyers and Kyriana Kratter (who you can see LIVE on stage at 9.30am on Sunday 20th April on the HoloNet Stage at Star Wars Celebration Japan) and dig back into late 2024 for our conversations with the young cast of the show
showrunners Jon Watt and Chris Ford and star Nick Frost
our mission is to deliver an unforgettable
immersive experience for Star Wars fans right here in
At Festival of the Force
immersive experience for Star Wars fans right here in the UK
our central location makes it easily accessible to enthusiasts from across the nation
We are passionate about celebrating the vast and iconic Star Wars universe while building a strong sense of community among collectors
we strive to connect all force wielders to ignite the excitement of the fandom
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Gregorio Borgo has added the position of Consultant of Yokohama TWS to his remit
He will begin in this capacity with the agricultural
construction and two-wheeler tyre and wheel division from 28 March 2025 alongside his current engagement as Acting President of Yokohama Europe GmbH
Borgo will climb a rung of the corporate ladder on that date
swapping his title of Associate Officer of Yokohama Rubber for that of Officer
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The Borgo dei Gatti is a dream that has turned into a project
has come back to life through the recovery of its stone houses and traditions: each dwelling has been expertly restored
and repopulated by an infectious beauty that has attracted new life and new projects
a modern tavern where you can breathe in the culinary and wine traditions of the area
a small treasure that offers the best products of local farmers
but to rediscover an authentic way of life
The philosophy of the place can be summed up in a simple phrase: “feel good.” It is a well-being that cannot be described in words
but is experienced in the small gestures: like waking up unhurriedly in one of the houses
breathing in the clean air and being pampered by the details
The rooms are furnished with carefully restored antique furniture
that tell stories of families and traditions
but a retreat where each guest can feel part of a larger narrative of simplicity
The dwellings are located on a street in the medieval village of Golferenzo
which officially bears the name Via Garibaldi
but for all residents is and always will be “Via dei Gat.” Some tell that it was the name of a family of locals
but residents like to believe it is in honor of the many cats that
live free among the ancient stones and barns of this enchanted village
The mansions are a plunge into the past while offering all the modern comforts
wooden beams and grit floors tell the stories of generations of peasants
where every detail has been carefully chosen: earthy colors
natural materials and environmentally friendly architecture make the Càs an immersive experience
In these lodges you can rediscover the pleasure of living at a slow pace
pampered by the magic of the Oltrepò hills
The essential kitchen and modern bathrooms create a perfect balance between past and present
Borgo dei Gatti is not only a place to rest
but also an ideal starting point for exploring an area rich in history
biking or simply getting lost among the rows of vines
Among the activities not to be missed are horseback riding among the vineyards
which offer a unique experience to get in direct contact with the landscape
the swimming pool surrounded by greenery is the ideal place to cool off on hot summer days
enjoying the silence and serenity of the surrounding hills
farmhouses and small local producers who are part of the Slow Food movement
where you can taste the excellence of the area
The bottega del borgo offers a selection of local products
perfect for those who want to take home a taste of this enchanted corner
guests can participate in cooking classes to learn the secrets of traditional Oltrepò recipes
or take part in guided tastings to discover local wines and typical products
A must-do experience is undoubtedly the Adasi Experience
This intimate and cozy environment is designed to accommodate a small number of people
thus ensuring a feeling of exclusivity and tranquility
everything beckons to relaxation: putting on your bathrobe and forgetting pesky thoughts is the first step toward wellness
At the center of the village's convivial life is Corte del Lupo
a wine bar and restaurant that perfectly embodies the philosophy of the place
Each dish tells the story of a generous land and passionate producers
Expertly selected wines accompany dishes prepared with fresh
following the rhythm of nature and local crops
La Corte del Lupo is not just a restaurant
toast and savor the beauty of small things
This is where a perfect day at Borgo dei Gatti ends amidst the warmth of people and the authentic taste of nature
The cuisine is innovative yet deeply rooted in the land
which in English is “Break a leg,” is reflected in their approach: here they don't just cook
they tell stories of traditions and small producers who respect the land and their animals
where the quality of the raw materials is the result of a deep connection with nature
and the concept of tradition is also expressed by supporting those who work with passion and respect
The wine selection offers an overview of Oltrepò Pavese: wine
The selection is the result of passionate research
with a focus on native grape varieties and producers who preserve local wine traditions
The commitment to sustainability is evident in every detail
La Corte del Lupo takes concrete measures to reduce food waste by serving microfiltered water and eliminating the use of plastic
here we try to make a difference in respecting the environment
with the idea that even the smallest gesture can help preserve the beauty of our planet
but an experience that remains in the heart
info@relaisborgodeigatti.it
Website
How to visit Rome’s historic papal escape route
the Passetto di Borgo was reopened to both Romans and tourists on December 23
Shrouded in mystery and steeped in history
the passageway stands as a silent witness to some of the Vatican’s most turbulent moments
hidden in plain sight amidst the bustling streets of Rome
once served as a lifeline for popes seeking refuge during invasions and conspiracies.
Now part of a permanent program of guided tours, including special evening visits, the entire stretch of the Passetto—from the Torre del Mascherino at Piazza della Città Leonina to the Bastione San Marco at Castel Sant’Angelo—is once again accessible
INSPIRATIONVisit Castel Sant’Angelo of Rome, The Mausoleum of Hadrian
Originally built for defense, the Passetto di Borgo is the secret passage that links the Vatican to Castel Sant’Angelo.
Once also known as “Er Coridore de Borgo”, the Passetto di Borgo is the elevated and fortified section of the Vatican Walls that stretches from the Vatican Apostolic Palace, along Via dei Corridori and Via Borgo Sant’Angelo, ending inside Castel Sant’Angelo.
The Passetto’s purpose was to control the lower area of the Borgo and suppress potential uprisings, thanks to its elevated position from which arrows could be easily shot or firearms fired. It also served to secretly imprison high-profile prisoners whose presence in the feared papal jails should remain unknown.
Most importantly, the Passetto provided a quick escape route for the pope, who could take hideaway in the well-protected walls of Castel Sant’Angelo in case of enemy attack or assassination attempts.
Visualizza questo post su Instagram Un post condiviso da Romeing (@romeing_magazine)
There are many curious stories and beliefs related to the Passetto: its mystery isn’t just about secret royal escapes during tough times
Among the more eccentric rumors is that Pope Alexander VI is said to have used it to reach the rooms where he met with his mistresses
From this story arose a peculiar practice: it was believed that by walking the 800 meters of the Passetto 77 times
men could recover their lost power… perhaps walking the Passetto was the ancient Roman equivalent of a workout
The guided tours allow you to walk the entire Passetto
from the Mascherino Tower in Piazza della Città Leonina to the San Marco Bastion at Castel Sant’Angelo
The route alternates between two levels: the upper is an open-air level that offers a panoramic walk with spectacular views of the city
the lower is a covered level representing the “secret” corridor that allowed popes to safely move from the papal apartments to the fortified castle
visitors can explore a dedicated exhibition space featuring artworks and historical artifacts that bring to life the stories of the Passetto and Castel Sant’Angelo
A multimedia installation enhances the experience with an immersive narrative
while a virtual tour available on the Castel Sant’Angelo website allows anyone to explore the Passetto from anywhere in the world
significant accessibility improvements have been made
including the installation of two elevators and adjustments to certain slopes
making the Passetto fully accessible to visitors with mobility challenges
For more information about tickets and visiting hours
visit the Castel Sant’Angelo website or Coop Culture
a visit to the Passetto is an unforgettable journey through time
This passageway is not just a relic of the past; it’s a living testament to the enduring spirit of Rome. As you walk its path
feel the echoes of history—its legends are as alive as ever
Piazza della Città Leonina (angolo via del Mascherino)
Daytime entry to Passetto and Bastione San Marco only: €4 (with legal reductions and free admissions) + €12 for the mandatory 1-hour guided tour
Integrated daytime entry to Passetto + Castel Sant’Angelo: €16 (with legal reductions and free admissions) + €10 for the 1-hour guided tour of Passetto di Borgo and Bastione San Marco
Special nighttime entry: €4 (with legal reductions and free admissions) + €24 for the special guided tour
www.museiitaliani.it
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Slide 2Learn To Make Gelato in an Authentic Roman Gelateria
Slide 6Colosseum Walking Tour with Roman Forum & Palatine Hill
artisan tourThe Artisan Walking Tour in Monteverde
Slide 5Enjoy the Eternal City on a Vespa or Sidecar
Check out all the TOURS and local EXPERIENCES
This insider guide on how to live like a local is the main event and lifestyle magazine devoted to Rome and written entirely in English
Romeing is a magazine for tourists and expats visiting or living in Rome
including an event calendar and feature articles written by locals with secret insight for your vacation or for those considering moving to live in Italy
with a daily listing of the latest and most diverse cultural and lifestyle events in and around Rome
This is an essential information tool that allows foreigners of every age and background to live Rome to the fullest and discover the top things to see and to do in Rome
Time was, to stay in rural Tuscany was either to rent a villa or stay in a draughty castle that had been turned into a “luxury hotel” with Medieval plumbing
Since its first cautious steps in the 1990s
the new Tuscan hotel scene has come on apace
Some of those who have opened stylish places to stay amidst the region’s cypress-studded hills are wine producers; some come from the world of fashion
while others arrived here from far-flung lands and simply fell in love with the place
The result is a varied offering that stretches from whole rural villages transformed into resort hotels to small boutique offerings within the walls of charming hilltop towns
Here we harvest some of the best hotels in Tuscany
We'd recommend visiting in spring (April to May) or early autumn (September) as the weather tends to be at its mildest during these months
June is also lovely if you want to see the sunflower blooms
Tuscany is always beautiful but the summer months (July-August) see increasing temperatures with the daily average maximum sitting at 30˚C
We recommend booking a seven-day trip so that you can experience all that Tuscany has to offer
You'll want to enjoy your Tuscan country hotel
but leave plenty of time to explore Cortona and Siena
with stops at the legendary vineyards of Chianti and Montepulciano
Every hotel on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveller journalist who knows the destination and has stayed at that property
our editors consider both luxury properties and boutique and lesser-known boltholes that offer an authentic and insider experience of a destination
a great location and warm service – as well as serious sustainability credentials
We update this list regularly as new hotels open and existing ones evolve
the French hotel group Les Domaines de Fontenille has spent the past eight years quietly building a band of committed guests who will follow it beyond its Gallic heartland and into the rolling hills of Tuscany
22-room former bishop’s residence in the Chianti countryside
perched next to the stunning 10th-century Santa Maria Novella chapel
The elegance of the hotel – with its cool colour palette
unfussy furnishings – makes it easy to be caught off guard by historical details; if you doze off during one of Veronica’s excellent massages
you’ll awake to gaze at the treatment room’s pleasingly bulging
peaceful minimalism and semi-restored grandeur
Number four features original ornate wallpaper tastefully reinvigorated and a bathroom accessible by a little curved ramp that reminds one of commuting to an ancient wine cellar
Said slope and much of the hotel are tiled in terracotta
one of the many treasures that emerge from the region’s rich soil
Plentiful olive groves and vineyards and a clutch of medieval towns with excellent trattorias thrive
These business owners comprise a network of friendly faces scattered across the nearby valleys
all known well to the staff at Pieve Aldina
Gardener and local boy Christiano daily furnishes the rooms with flowers from his burgeoning Italianate plot; general manager Fausto has a palpable sense of excitement over being at the helm; and head chef Nico patiently enacts pasta-making classes with a mischievous charm
It’s in the food that the marriage of the French hotel group and the locale is most identifiable; while Nico and his team’s menus – from truffle tasting to homestyle sharing
with the latter featuring an exquisite pappa al pomodoro – are squarely Tuscan
woods and well-developed gardens in the Tuscan countryside
The main house appears to have been built at around the same time as the nearby Abbey of San Galgano
The farm was still active but the house had been uninhabited for decades and was more or less derelict
eight in the main house (including the vast Santo Pietro Grand Suite
with its long first-storey balcony and sweeping views across the valley)
the rest in individual cottages neatly aligned along a leafy avenue
The cottages have been added in stages in the years since the Thottrups acquired Borgo but harmonise nicely with the original house
Interior style is difficult to characterise – Italian-country-housey up to a point (timber beams
charming murals depicting rustic landscapes in muted tones) but with various foreign elements present as well (most notably and unsurprisingly a Danish element
expressed not so much through objects as a certain uncluttered restraint and coolness of palette)
Food is an integral part of the experience. Trattoria sull’Albero delivers farm-to-table regional classics (plus superb Neopolitan-style pizza) in a wonderfully convivial space built around an ancient oak tree
Borgo’s fine-dining restaurant reopened in 2022 under a new name
Ariel Hagen (who also oversees its sister restaurant in Florence)
though minus the simmering tension and murder mystery
17th and 18th century villas have been restored to feel like an understated yet ravishing home rather than a hotel
Little touches ensure this: mismatched sun hats for guests
the framed photos and artworks and some surprisingly bold kitchen tiles
combined with colour schemes and hand-made ceramics
antiques and fabrics that reflect the warm colours of the rolling Tuscan hills outside (best marvelled at from each villa’s private heated pool)
The 42 suites – with 19 more reportedly planned – have toweringly high ceilings
tastefully pared-back four posters and roomy terraces to spread out on
allowing you to dream that you are an Italian-American fashion heir for the duration of your stay
The majority of staff both on site and in the spa are local
and while such a prestigious location could be intimidating: instead the team ensures you feel constantly welcomed and catered for
they’d have more than 800 years' worth of material – something that plays on your mind as you stroll around the sprawling estate
It offers a fairytale Tuscan escape far from the madding crowd – where afternoons are soundtracked by little more than the distant chirp of birds and the occasional huff from Uva
each equally unique in history and character
the property’s hub of culinary activity sits at the heart of the estate
and guests are free to amble past chefs at work on the way to supper
There's an on-site spa with a Bali-esque hut beside the largest swimming pool; an idyllic spot for therapists to offer targeted and full-body treatments
dousing aching muscles in Comfort Zone essential oils
not far from the historic town of Montepulciano
Precise Tale Poggio Alla Sala is a magnificently curated sprawl deep in the verdant Tuscan countryside
I was instantly struck by the relaxed and breezy feel of the place upon arrival
My room continued this spacious and breezy feel
with panoramic views of the rolling hills outside and frescoed ceilings perfect for gazing at from the four-poster princess bed
I could have happily holed up here for hours just drinking in the plush surroundings
so I wasted little time heading to the pool bar for a casual bite before plunging into the cooling waters of one of the three on-site pools
I booked into the spa for a relaxing full-body massage
choosing my preferred texture scrubs and scented oils before feeling like I was melting as all the kinks and knots of the last 90 days were eased out of me over a 90-minute full-body massage
We practically floated down to La Via Della Seta for dinner – the more elevated dining option on-site
The menu is curated by Cordon Bleu Master Ronen Dovrat Bloch and is a real showcase of the best locally sourced produce (not forgetting the wine
Highlights include a melt-in-the-mouth braised ox cheek
fresh polenta with jumbo prawns and the best tiramisu we found in the region so far – and trust me
there had been some pretty extensive taste-testing
From every last forkful to every tiny thought-out detail
It’s been eons since a new hotel graced Porto Ercole
a chic but discreet village on the Monte Argentario peninsula that’s home to Caravaggio’s tomb
The newcomer creating ripples on this part of the rock-strewn Maremma coastline is petite La Roqqa
a cliffside retreat whose distinctive coral-orange façade and secluded views of the Tyrrhenian Sea provide a forward-looking alternative to Hotel Il Pellicano
the area’s sine qua non grande dame since 1965
floor-to-ceiling windows let sunshine flood onto walls of sage green or Terra di Siena orange
Milanese masters of uncluttered contemporary chic
have mixed midcentury pieces and Gaetano Pesce’s iconic Up chairs with ultramodern features
including an eye-catching white central staircase spiralling from the entrance
Ferragamo-clad locals sip Negronis gilded by sunset rays in view of the 16th-century Forte Stella and harbour yachts below
Aperitivo hour turns into dinner at the outdoor Scirocco restaurant
where chef Francesco Ferretti knocks up fresh sea bass and other local seafood capped with Venetian grappa
Days spent lounging at the hotel’s smart Isolotto Beach Club are broken up by lunches of avocado and tuna salads paired with a local white
Or you can ask friendly staff to book you a Vespa tour along the rugged coast
It’s La Dolce Vita reimagined for the next generation
Relaxed luxury is the name of the game at this intimate member of Design Hotels in a restored monastery in Umbria
The hotel is set on a 2.5-acre estate planted with a vegetable garden and replete with manicured lawns where dogs can play
this hotel draws Italians and ex-pats from the neighbouring towns
who come to sip creative cocktails at the bar
which juxtapose the ancient monastery’s stone walls with sleek contemporary art and design
are each bespoke creations in minimalist silhouettes and bold colours made by fourth-generation ironsmith Emanuele Lispi
the on-site restaurant transforms into a showcase for the chef
who brings Middle Eastern and Asian flavours to this very traditional part of Italy
Start with a creative cocktail or glass of wine in the lounge
which feels more like a living room than a hotel bar
and then settle in for a culinary voyage in the restaurant
where you might start with ramen in Umbrian beef broth with smoked duck breast and end with bread pudding with ricotta
and vanilla cream perfumed with rose water
two sisters from Milan came to the Maremma – a wild
ruggedly handsome swathe of the southern Tuscan coast and hinterland – to sell a farm estate that belonged to their father
they and their Argentinian husbands ending up moving in
and turning the place into one of the area’s most delightfully laid-back country hotels
Maremma is a horsey kind of place and there’s a riding school on site
but La Pescaia is utterly charming whether you canter or not
most in the 19th-century villa at the centre of the estate
plus a pair of apartments well suited to small families
four-poster beds with billowing linen curtains and fresh flowers everywhere strike an elegantly retro note
It’s the kind of place that invites you to channel your inner Tuscan aristocrat
organic food served at the in-house restaurant is exactly what a Maremman marchese and marchesa of today would tuck into as they discuss the olive harvest and watch the kids play under the ancient cedar tree on the lawn
this ancient 1,100-hectare working estate comprises vineyards
It was bought by Indonesian entrepreneur Sri Prakash Lohia in 2021 who hasn’t wasted any time in going full throttle on improvements
from a refresh of the rooms (choose between the stone-coloured modern new-build or more traditional interiors in the old tobacco warehouse across the road) to a new kids’ club and adventure park with zip lines
a church and a medieval castle which houses a fine dining restaurant (the views from the terrace at sunset are magical)
Other excellent dining spots include casual trattoria Il Rosmarino for pizza
all-day dining at Olivina and the Country Club House
which makes for a lovely lunch (the octopus pasta is delicious)
There are masses to do – catch-and-release carp fishing on the lake
cooking classes – which means that once you check in
A more recent addition is the new RAKxa Wellness Spa – 1,500 square metres of serene wellness spaces including seven treatment rooms
a salon and a granite-lined indoor/outdoor heated infinity pool with breath-taking hillside views
Hotelier John Voigtmann’s stylish 12-room nest in the centre of oh-so-pretty Pienza
opened in 2013 with interiors by London studio Ab Rogers Design
it’s become part of the life of this delightful small town with its where’s-my-camera sunset views over the Val d’Orcia
fields and woods) where butterflies swarm on sprawling lavender and the soundtrack is birdsong
plus smaller cottages and a farmhouse for 20 but they take bookings so strategically you’ll feel you practically own the place
All produce is from the land itself: free range pigs
hens and bees provide all you see on your plate
there is an onsite bakery (using flour they mill) and garden kitchen overflowing with herbs and vegetables
Olive oil and organic lavender bathroom soaps and potions are all made in-house too – and you can buy them to take away
The Al Fresco restaurant is great for a wood-fired pizza and zingy fresh salad but on the other end of the scale Villa Pignano whips up epic tasting menus fusing all sorts of unexpected combinations – there’s ravioli with blue cheese and white chocolate
and a surprisingly successful lamb with lavender and almonds
the handsome bearded mixologist with his terrace bar overlooking the hills
He’s more famous than the entire estate and makes a mean Negroni
By day the activities are endless – trekking
Painting classes are also on offer; pupils from The Royal Drawing School visit every summer as part of their curriculum
All that’s asked is they leave one of their works behind as the owners are art obsessives and have even opened a vast gallery selling work that is littered throughout the estate
but never hovering in that claustrophobic way
buff-coloured castle in Casole d'Elsa may date back 1,000 years
but its heyday wasn't until the 1960s when it was bought by Edoardo Visconti di Modrone Erba – the brother of Italian film director Luchino Visconti – who hosted parties for Hollywood stars and the Euro elite
after a full restoration and an acquisition by Belmond in 2018
the castello and its 1,700-hectare estate is run impeccably as a hotel
there's a sensitivity to the design and an attempt at Tuscan-style that prevents it from feeling too overtly plush or featureless
Eighteen of the 39 bedrooms are in the historic main building
all traditionally furnished with ornately carved wooden beds
exposed honeyed-brick walls and Carrara marble bathrooms
The rest of the rooms – the Limonaia suites
previously housing lemon trees in the winter
which was constructed by Italian designer Alessandro Mendini – have been converted and are more contemporary
there are hot-stone massages and deep-cleansing facials beneath barrel-vaulted ceilings
the restaurant of Castello di Casole headed by executive chef Daniele Sera
has excellent local wines and the spectacular sunsets across the valley all make this place feel grown-up
After winding up to its walls through the countryside in the pitch black
this was a monastery surrounded by vineyards and chestnut groves
then a castle and the country residence of the aristocratic Chigi family (who produced a pope and owned this spot for some 900 years)
Many of the 76 rooms and suites are still clustered around the main piazza
each of them softly masculine with moodily muted decor
yet also subtly individual with original beams
terracotta floors and either a fresco of the surrounding countryside or a huge wooden bathtub in the bedroom
the square – like any self-respecting Italian village – hums with aperitivo activity
Much is made of Gordon Ramsay's hand in the menus at Contrada restaurant (in fact
and resident chef Nello Cassese's refined Tuscan-with-a-twist creations shine by themselves)
but the really big attraction here is the enormous spa
Pass up on the gallons of Chianti made right on the hotel's doorstep and sign up for one of the detox
weight-loss or anti-ageing programmes devised by Professor Giorgio Calabrese (a diet legend in Italy)
These serious three- or seven-day plans all include time in the Aquae Monasterii
Proprietor Count Benedikt Bolza clearly has a keen eye
He himself designs bespoke furniture for the hotel
and sells everything from the coffee tables and window seats to the canopied beds and standing lamps
all made on-site by a team of blacksmiths and carpenters
This is a 1,200-hectare turbo-charged working estate in Lisciano Niccone: smart
Fifty 500-year-old farmhouses are scattered around the undulating hills of northern Umbria
More than half have been renovated; six are for rent
including Palazzo – a perfect five-bedroom party house built from scratch on the footprint of an old property – and the more traditional Villa San Paulo
a 17th-century building with a chapel that has been converted into a formal dining room
All are a fantastically refined mix of old-world style with a modern twist: reclaimed terracotta tiles
travertine marble and green oak are combined with steel and glass extensions
and whizzy kitchens with touches of zinc and concrete
wine cellars and outdoor pizza ovens are also a given
olive and pomegranate trees are interspersed with mosaic pathways and fountains
There are cookery lessons from chef Rosario Russo in the restaurant's kitchen
clay-pigeon shoots and fallow-deer stalking - look out for the wild porcupine
And there are also plans to convert the uninhabited 10th-century castle into a small hotel
Twisting up into the wooded heights of the Umbrian hills
the road narrows into a precipitous gravel track shaded by a tunnel of trees
the valley falling steeply away just inches from the car
The reward at the end of this wheel-gripping approach is a 10th-century watchtower that has been thoughtfully and innovatively refurbished by architect Christopher Chong and his wife
Chong has seamlessly united the tower's warm stone walls with concrete
which highlights rather than clashes with the structure's ancient bones
Seven suites are minimal and dreamy with cool-grey tiled floors
travertine and marmorino plaster walls matched by sunken tubs
a modular sofa under the spectacularly high ceiling
There's a glass cantilevered Juliet balcony
wide sun-trap terraces and a flickering fire pit
each blade-sharp line softened by climbing roses and lavender
The overall effect is surprisingly calming rather than austere
especially if you've spent all day lying by the inky-dark pool
absorbing the panorama of the Carpini Valley
the fields and olive groves and thick oak forests where wolves still live
Address: Località San Felice, 53019 Castelnuovo Berardenga SI, Italy
I have been working in Foggia for nine years
Becoming a mediator was not really a choice – it feels like something I was born into
I speak many African languages and dialects
I began helping people in reception centres
translating and explaining things they did not understand
I was already familiar with Borgo Mezzanone – I had friends there
INTERSOS saw that I was already part of that world and explained the role of a mediator to me
being a point of reference – it all gives me great satisfaction
My days do not always start in the settlement
I often receive calls for urgent support from people who know me
I am not just a mediator; I am someone they trust
I have seen many mediators working with INTERSOS
and to understand exactly what I can do for them
That is why they are happy when they see me – they know that if I can help
The people in the settlement come from many parts of Africa and beyond
I meet people who cannot sleep at night because they have no legal papers—they have been here for ten or twelve years and still have nothing
Some go days without eating; they are desperate
I cannot give money or buy food for them – it is not part of my role
and it would be impossible: if you do it for one person
The legal aspect is particularly difficult
and we cannot always provide immediate solutions
This is the most delicate part of mediation – I do not just translate; I am also human
and I do not even know who to direct my frustration towards
we have to explain things that seem obvious to us but are completely new to them
I know we cannot solve everything and that we cannot help everyone
That is why we have to be very careful about how we work and how we move forward
Many people need support in other settlements as well
We are now trying to visit these locations at least once every two weeks
I immediately understand the difficulties they are facing
I understand why they have certain fears and why some things are harder for them
I might take two minutes to explain it because I also have to convey cultural differences
some people do not want to expose parts of their bodies during a medical examination because they feel ashamed
I have to explain the concept of privacy and why it is necessary to overcome this obstacle to receive treatment
I remember one patient who had spoken with several professionals but could not explain his problem
he overcame his embarrassment because I helped him understand the importance of the visit
Providing information is the most important part of our work
they go directly to a hospital where they find everything they need – doctors
and many migrants do not know how to navigate the Italian healthcare system
They do not realise they have the right to a general practitioner
If they do not understand how the system works
they go to the emergency room for every issue and then wait hours to be seen
we paused some activities for two weeks just to focus on healthcare orientation and to explain the importance of vaccinations
This is an aspect that many other organisations rarely focus on
I have been here for a long time; people know me and trust me
I feel happy when I see someone we helped recover
That is when I realise my work is meaningful
But I also know that it is not enough – many people still need support
especially in the more isolated settlements
because access to healthcare and information is a right that belongs to everyone
because he could not present the requested documentation to the registry office.