Jain Kim (KOR) attends her 102nd Lead World Cup - fourth on the female lead all time list
and her 146th World Cup competition across all disciplines - fifth on the female all time list
Hélène Janicot (FRA) attends her 71st Lead World Cup - equal ninth on the female Lead all time list - and takes the French national record for appearances from Caroline Ciavaldini
Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA) attends his 82nd Lead World Cup
In men’s Speed Ludovico Fossali (ITA) is the most experienced making his 47th Speed World Cup closely followed by Guillome Moro (FRA) making his 46th Speed World Cup
Making their first appearance at an IFSC World Cup in men’s Lead are:
Making their first appearance at an IFSC World Cup in women’s Speed are:
Making their first appearance at an IFSC World Cup in men’s Speed are:
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The IFSC has disqualified all American climbers scheduled to compete in Briançon after a representative failed to confirm their attendance
Although 10 Americans were on the start list for the event
Olympian Colin Duffy told Climbing that at least a couple of these—himself and fellow Olympian Jesse Grupper—were not intending to compete in Briançon
which USAC would have indicated to the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) at the check-in
(Duffy won gold at last weekend’s Chamonix Lead World Cup
but is stepping back from any further competitions to focus on preparing for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games in August.)
start list who have now been disqualified were men Nathan Sato
USA Climbing issued an apology for the blunder via their website yesterday
“We can only imagine the immense disappointment our athletes and fans must be feeling right now,” the statement reads
“We want to express our sincerest apologies for this inexcusable oversight
Our staff are actively working on ways to prevent this from happening again in the future.”
“There’s always a meeting before these comps to confirm team attendance that the Team Official should go to,” Duffy explained
but I guess our Team Official for that event just didn’t show up
But it sucks that the team couldn’t get a warning or something
and maybe the athletes could still compete.”
Somewhat damningly, although the USAC statement says “the rules require a confirmation of attendance in person by a Team Official at the competition venue,” a public PDF dictating all of the IFSC’s 2024 Rules states that “in exceptional circumstances” check-ins can alternatively be performed via SMS or phone call
the USAC statement said that a “Team Official” was required to confirm attendance
but the IFSC Rules list states that even one of the competitors may do this themself if no Team Official is registered
Rumors were awash on social media in the wake of the incident
with some sources speculating that there was a lack of consideration for non-Olympic USA Climbing team members this close to the Paris Games
were already in Europe for previous IFSC events
he said several had flown over from the United States specifically for the Briançon World Cup
“There really aren’t any positive takeaways.” In their statement
the USAC said that they would reimburse travel expenses for all the affected athletes and their family who traveled to support them
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Inhabitants of Briançon in south-east France are proud of the fact that their town has never been captured by enemies
at the meeting point of five valleys and close to the border with Italy
attacking this Hautes-Alpes outpost was never going to be easy
Troops would first have to negotiate the mountainous terrain
they would have been met by some formidable fortifications
which were consolidated in the 18th Century by the celebrated military architect Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban
is Briançon’s jewel – an 11th-Century settlement encircled by multiple fortifications to protect its population from invaders
It earned Unesco World Heritage Site recognition in 2008
it has been settled and fortified since Gallo-Roman times
beefing up defences became a priority after it was threatened by the Duke of Savoy in 1692
who personally advised Louis XIV on fortification efforts
all along France’s borders to better protect the territory
journalist and author of a book about Vauban
said: “Briançon was France’s most strategic site since it overlooked five valleys that led to Montgenèvre
“Securing Briançon was like putting a lock on France’s entire south east.”
Vauban started with construction of several forts around the town
These included Trois Têtes and Rambouillet
enemies would be funnelled towards Pont d’Asfeld
the only accessible road and built from 1729 to 1734 across a picturesque gorge of the Durance
The town itself is surrounded by thick walls
above which stands the imposing Fort des Salettes
built between 1709 and 1712 and dominating Briançon at some 1,538 m high
These mammoth architectural efforts give Briançon “a soul”
“There is always something new to discover or rediscover
Once through the Porte de Pignerol gateway
In front are the two downhill streets of Grande Rue and Rue du Temple
Grande Rue is one of the town’s most famous sights and is lined with attractive old buildings
It is often referred to as La Grande Gargouille (‘The Great Gargoyle’)
and also refers to a small drain flowing with water in the centre of the road
Both Grande Rue and Rue du Temple take you to Place d’Armes
Hard to miss near here is the 18th-century collegiate church of Notre Dame and Saint Nicolas
built to Vauban’s plans and boasting two stone bell towers topped with domes and an impressive sundial
Vauban’s idea was to build the church in the heart of the town and its fortifications so that the Duke of Savoy
would think twice about attacking a religious building
Briançon’s tourist office is also located near here
in a Renaissance building dating from 1575 and one of the town’s oldest
Visitors will find it hard to resist buying one of the ubiquitous marmot cuddly toys – the region’s animal mascot – as they are displayed in many shop windows and on market stalls
on Cité Vauban’s stunning views of the mountains
Locals all have their favourite places to do so
Porte de la Durance or Fort du Château in the shadow of Antoine Bourdelle’s bronze La France sculpture
Briançon has extended outside of its fortified perimeter towards the base of the hill
around 500 locals still remain in the old town
despite its inaccessibility by car and the lack of light inside apartments
“The relationship we have with Cité Vauban is complex,” said Ms Clivio
She points out that Briançon has not suffered the same fate as many other French fortified towns
where military buildings were destroyed to make way for modern infrastructure and housing
An army presence continued at Fort des Trois Têtes until 2009
just months after it was awarded Unesco status
Briançon is not nearly as inaccessible as it once was
almost the whole territory was covered by night train services and Paris-Briançon remains one of the most famous routes
It has even inspired a new book from popular French writer Philippe Besson
It is one of only two remaining night train services
having resisted efforts from successive governments to shut it down
This is thanks largely to savvy Briançon mayors emphasising how important the service is for nearby ski resorts
Briançon’s fortifications have been harnessed for more than tourism
serving as a billboard for protest banners
They have increasingly been used as such by Tous migrants
to denounce the town’s lack of migrant shelters
The town’s defences have also been re-imagined for Briançon’s recently overhauled logo
a decision was made to replace the generic picture-postcard one featuring mountains
sky and sun for something that better reflected the town
whose former company Studio Havana was chosen to redesign the logo
told The Connexion he went back to Vauban’s original plans
The logo’s shape is therefore very geometric
with vertical lines representing the link between the upper and lower town
Mr Petit moved to Briançon over 10 years ago
attracted by the high number of cultural events the town offers
but it feels as if these fortifications were designed to defend its intrinsic quality of openness.”
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Team USA has no climbers competing in the IFSC Lead World Cup in Briançon, France this week. Five Team USA climbers in both gender categories had registered to participate in the event. However, USA Climbing failed to confirm the attendance of their athletes with the IFSC
USA Climbing is the national governing bodies for comp climbing in the United States as recognized by the International Olympic Committee and the IFSC
IFSC World Cup rules indicate that registered athletes must have their attendance confirmed by a Team Official at the competition venue
USA Climbing unfortunately failed to do this for their Lead athletes in Briançon
The Jury President of the event stuck to the rules
preventing the inclusion of Team USA athletes in the comp
USA Climbing has said it will reimburse travel expenses for its Briançon athletes and their families due to this mishap
Ten Team USA athletes were registered to compete in Briançon
Declan Osgood and Hugo Hoyer in men’s and Alyssa Keanini
It is likely that some of these climbers would not have competed had their attendance been confirmed – Colin Duffy
announced he wasn’t going to compete in Briançon after his Chamonix victory last week – but the majority would have
USA Climbing has released a public statement about the issue
We deeply regret to announce that USA Climbing failed to confirm the attendance of our Lead athletes registered to compete at the IFSC World Cup Briançon 2024
the rules require a confirmation of attendance in person by a Team Official at the competition venue
informed our onsite staff that our Lead athletes would not be eligible to participate
We can only imagine the immense disappointment our athletes and fans must be feeling right now
and we want to express our sincerest apologies for this inexcusable oversight
Our staff are actively working on ways to prevent this from happening again in the future by putting additional safeguards in place to mitigate such issues moving forward
USA Climbing will reimburse travel expenses for the athletes and their family members who traveled to support them
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The fourth stage of the Lead World Cup took place in Briançon last weekend and
despite being impoverished as all the main players except for Laura Rogora skipped it in their final preparations to the Paris Olympics
Six athletes from Team Japan managed to qualify for the men's final
with three claiming the podium making for a historic clean sweep: Murashita Zento won gold with with a score of 47
Yoshida Satone followed in close second place with 45
and Omata Shion won bronze after having reached hold 42+
all three had managed to top the men’s semi-final route
Finishing in fourth position in his first final participation was home favourite Max Bertone
Also at 42+ was German veteran Sebastian Halenke
who took fifth place due to his inferior semifinal score
Three more Japanese climbers finished in the bottom three position of the final: Ishizu Mototaka concluded sixth with 41+
and Imaizumi Yuta closed in eighth with 38+
This is Murashita's first gold medal and after the event he commented "I’m very happy
Also winning her first World Cup gold medal ever was 27-year-old Kotake Mei
who managed to climb to hold 49+ to win her 25th Lead World Cup participation
who won bronze at the World Cup in Chamonix
concluded in front of Italy’s Laura Rogora who won silver after falling off hold 45
Third place went to Austria’s Mattea Pötzi
who claimed her first-ever World Cup medal after qualifying for her third consecutive Lead final
Natsumi Oda of Japan seventh and Floa Oblasser of Austria eighth
"I still can’t believe I have won my first gold
It’s been a long journey for me to get on the World Cup podium
With many of the top climbers not competing
and I’m happy I made it," an emotional Kotake said moments before the podium.The IFSC World Cup Series 2024 will return in September with events in Koper
Full results: www.ifsc-climbing.org
and voices from the sixth IFSC World Cup stage of the 2024 season
“I still can’t believe I have won my first gold
It’s been a long journey for me to get on the World Cup podium
“In my time away from the competition circuit I focused on rock Climbing
“I’m happy because I gave all my had on the route
It’s been a long time since my last World Cup podium
and I feel this is a good performance in the lead up to the Olympic Games.”
I wouldn’t have expected my first World Cup medal
I thought I was even out of semi-final after my first climb in qualification
so it was definitely a good job coming back from that.”
because I think I could have climbed to the top
“I tried my best and got into the flow well
This was probably one of my biggest goals this year
I would have never imagined making it to the final in a World Cup
“To do this in front of a French audience is the best
I know they are here to push me to my limit
and the final will be good with their support.”
and I should not have tried to switch feet just before slipping
I think I could have done at least two more moves
and I didn’t have time to train for this type of climb
as I am still recovering from a knee surgery I had in April
but the route felt like one from when I started competing many years ago.”
“Qualification routes were very cool to climb
and we were able to bring some family and friends too
“My objective at this competition was to make semi-final
but in the second one I hesitated a lot on a move where you don’t have to hesitate
I should have done at least two or three more moves to consider it a good performance
but even if I’m the last one I always try to look at the positive side of each thing
because if you start worrying about stuff that don’t matter
and you don’t have to wait so long in the warm-up area.”
With my legs I think I could do a couple of moves more than the other guys
even though I am not completely satisfied with my performance on the second route.”
“I was nervous for my first World Cup competition
“It’s super cool to have four climbers competing at the Olympic Games for Great Britain
the awareness for Climbing in Great Britain has grown a lot over the past few years.”
the Japanese national team ruled the last World Cup competition before the Olympic Games Paris 2024
Climbing in front of a stunning crowd in Briançon
eight men and eight women battled for the fourth sets of Lead World Cup medals up for grabs this year
Team Japan placed three of their six finalists on the podium
with Murashita Zento claiming the brightest medal with a score of 47
Yoshida Satone following in close second place with 45
and Omata Shion completing the sweep and winning bronze with 42+
and Omata were the three climbers who managed to top the men’s semi-final route
and climb very well,” said first-time gold medallist Murashita
Also at 42+ was Germany’s Sebastian Halenke
For the women’s Lead event complete results click here
who entered the stage with the fourth seed
but managed to climb higher than all her rivals
finally placing at the top of the ranking in her 25th Lead World Cup participation
who was coming from the bronze won at the World Cup in Chamonix
concluded in front of Italy’s Laura Rogora – one of the few athletes qualified for Paris 2024 who competed in Briançon
and I’m happy I made it,” an emotional Kotake said moments before the podium
Third place went to Austria’s Mattea Pötzi
who finally claimed her first-ever World Cup medal in her third consecutive Lead final round
For the women’s Lead event complete results click here
The IFSC World Cup Series 2024 will return in September with events in Koper
FOSSALI TAKE FIRST HISTORIC SPEED GOLDS IN BRIANÇONThe 400th IFSC World Cup event in history opened with an exciting pair of Speed finals
In the long history of IFSC World Cup events in Briançon
the Speed discipline have never been part of the programme – until now
After 13 consecutive years hosting Lead World Cup competitions
the beautiful city in the French Alps has finally seen the first sets of Speed medals awarded in its brand-new venue
China’s Deng Lijuan won gold in the women’s Speed event and led an all-Asian podium that also included South Korea’s Jeong Jimin and teammate Zhang Shaoqin
Deng’s crescendo saw her close with four sub-seven and go from the time of 6.87 seconds she recorded in the round of 16
to the 6.62 in the following quarter-final
to the 6.48 with which she beat another Chinese climber
the 24-year-old from Beijing set a new personal best with 6.41 seconds
The South Korean specialist also updated her own personal record and stopped the clock at 6.53
“I can’t wait to be in Paris for the Olympics
“I’m so excited about winning silver,” added Jeong
“It is the first silver in the history of my country
Zhang Shaoqin bested Wang and placed third with 6.46 seconds
For the women’s Speed event complete results click here
The men’s Speed final also lived up to the expectations of the crowd
offering a neck-and-neck race for gold between two of the most experienced climbers in the circuit: Ludovico Fossali of Italy and Erik Noya Cardona of Spain
the 2019 men’s Speed world champion in Hachioji
ran his first-ever sub-five and won gold with 4.97 – equalling the current men’s European record and taking the second World Cup win of his career
I know that with consistency and time I could achieve my goals
it helps me forget the first part of the season
The podium was completed by China’s Long Jianguo
who placed third after beating Germany’s Leander Carmanns in the bronze medal race
Carmanns with 5.06 – both set a new personal record
For the men’s Speed event complete results click here
Despite many of the top-ranked athletes missing from the starting lists, the competing climbers put on a show on a highly performing wall, with plenty of new personal bests being set, along with two continental records: Josh Bruyns of South Africa stopped the clock at 5.71 seconds
besting the time he previously set at last week’s World Cup in Chamonix
France; while Julian David of New Zealand continued his progression and wrote a new Oceania record in both of his qualification runs – first with 5.40
The IFSC World Cup Briançon 2024 will continue tomorrow with Lead qualifications
while Lead semi-finals will close the programme at 20:30
PÖTZI TARGETS FIRST PODIUMTeam Japan dominated the men’s Lead semi-final
placing six athletes out of eight spots; the Austrian 24-year-old earned herself a third-consecutive trip to the final round
The second competition day at the IFSC World Cup Briançon 2024 featured the two Lead semi-final rounds that selected the eight men and eight women competing in tomorrow’s finals
Four Japanese climbers took the first four positions at the end of the men’s semi-final
and Murashita Zento securing the top of the route
and Tanaka Shuta closing just a few before with 48+
The Japanese contingent participating in the battle for the medals will also include Ishizu Mototaka and Imaizumi Yuta – respectively sixth and seventh in the ranking
The only two non-Japanese athletes making it into the top eight were 17-year-old Max Bertone of France
and 29-year-old Sebastian Halenke of Germany
while Halenke scored 45 and finished in eighth position
Halenke added: “My climb in the semi-final was decent
For the men’s Lead complete results click here
I would have never imagined making it to the final in a World Cup.Max Bertone (FRA)A much more diverse group of climbers qualified for the women’s Lead final
Laura Rogora – an Olympian at Tokyo 2020 Olympian
and a future participant at Paris 2024 – claimed the top of the table with a score of 41+
who finished second because of a lower placement in the qualification round
“I tried my best and got into the flow well,” commented Pötzi
Pötzi’s 16-year-old teammate Flora Oblasser qualified in eighth place and will try to best the fifth place she took at the previous World Cup in Chamonix
Also competing in tomorrow’s final will be legendary climber Kim Jain of South Korea
Japan’s Kotake Mei – winner of the bronze medal in Chamonix – Aleksandra Totkova of Bulgaria
and two more teenagers: Oda Natsumi of Japan
For the women’s Lead complete results click here
with the men’s Lead final starting at 20:30 (UTC+2:00)
France is the destination as climbers make their way cross country from Chamonix for the sixth IFSC World Cup of 2024
Starting tomorrow the Speed and Lead athletes will once again fight it out for podium positions and World Cup medals
is steeped in climbing and Tour de France history with murals of the great cycling race adorning many walls
and in 2024 there are some similarities between the two events
the IFSC World Cup has taken a July tour of France - from Chamonix
now to Briançon and finishing in the capital Paris later in the month with the Olympic Games
138 Lead climbers and 102 Speed climbers will once again vie for medals over three days of climbing with Speed in focus on day one
At last year’s edition there was no Speed on the menu
but in 2024 the crowds that will be in attendance will have something else to cheer and enjoy
Coming off a men’s Speed medal winning performance in Chamonix is Spain’s Erik Noya Cardona who will be hoping for a podium repeat and an addition to that bronze medal he won just last week
Noya Cardona said: “I’m feeling great ahead of this competition
really motivated after my result in Chamonix and I want to keep pushing
I want to try and break the five second barrier and join the four second club very soon
For Noya Cardona and many of the Speed climbers it is a first visit to the French city: “It’s my first time in Briançon and it’s a beautiful place
I wish they did Speed World Cup’s here before so I could have come earlier.”
China’s Wang Xinshang joined Noya Cardona on the Chamonix podium taking silver and will once again be a rival to the Spaniard
Others looking to make waves in the men’s competition will be Salt Lake City bronze medallist Kevin Amon of Austria and former world record holders Veddriq Leonardo and Kiromal Katibin of Indonesia
Rajiah Sallsabillah is in Briançon in the women’s competition after securing a Paris 2024 ticket at the recent Olympic Qualifier Series events
as is Noya Cardona’s compatriot and also future Olympian Leslie Adriana Romero Pérez
In the last hit out before Paris 2024 there is a host of women’s Speed climbers in action
Indonesia’s world champion Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi
There’s even last week’s winner in Chamonix Zhang Shaoqin of China in action in what promises to be a great competition
I want to try and break the five second barrier and join the four second club very soonErik Noya Cardona (ESP)For Lead in 2023
Slovenia’s Vita Lukan broke her duck for World Cup gold’s when she stood atop the women’s podium
and last year’s winner is back to her happy place
Lukan said: “It’s really exciting being back in Briançon as I have really good memories
I’m really looking forward to the competition.”
Lukan’s year hasn’t quite been on the same path: “This whole season has been an emotional rollercoaster
I focussed on the Olympic Qualifier Series and it didn’t work out
so now I don’t feel that much pressure on the World Cup as my shape is maybe not the best now and it is a little hard to refocus on competition
But I felt good in Chamonix and felt I was getting back on track
Some of the names on the registration list Lukan will have to contend with are Austria’s three Chamonix finalists – Jessica Pilz
a French contingent including Manon Hily and Hélène Janicot
and some strong Asian climbers like South Korea’s Kim Jain and Japan’s Tanii Natsuki
In the men’s Lead competition last year there were seven Japanese climbers out of the eight available places
With another big showing in Briançon from the team
Just three of the ten in attendance from the nation
Looking to disrupt the Japanese order will be climbers such as Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi
Spain’s Chamonix finalist Guillermo Peinado Franganillo and soon to be Olympian
Action starts tomorrow – Wednesday 17 July – with Speed qualification at 12:00 (UTC+2) before Speed finals the same day at 20:00
DAVID BREAKS INTO FINAL ROUNDThe IFSC World Cup in Briançon
France kicked off with Speed qualifications
with new faces and recent winners making their way to the final rounds
The final IFSC World Cup event before the Olympic Games Paris 2024 commenced in Briançon
with the women’s and men’s Speed qualification rounds
Chinese specialist Zhang Shaoqin – winner of the women’s Speed event at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix
last week – placed atop the ranking with 6.64 seconds
and will aim at pocketing her second consecutive World Cup gold
Five more athletes recorded qualification times below the seven-second mark
including Poland’s Natalia Kalucka – winner of the silver medal in Chamonix – and Italy’s Giulia Randi
who updated her personal best with a 6.85 run
For the women’s Speed qualification complete results click here
another future Paris 2024 Olympian – Kazakhstan’s Amir Maimuratov – placed first with his new personal best: 4.96 seconds
Second with 4.97 was Italy’s reigning Speed world champion Matteo Zurloni
who equalled the European record he set just four days ago in Chamonix
Speaking of continental records, Julian David of New Zealand finally broke into the top 16 with a stunning 5.26, breaking once again the Oceania record and guaranteeing himself the best result of his young career
“I thought the first run was pretty good – a new personal best
Oceania and New Zealand record already with the 5.40
Then usually if you have a good first qualifying run the second you can kind of let the cat out of the bag and go full beans
so I did and managed 5.26 seconds run to get me into 11th heading into my first finals here in Briançon
I’m super proud and can’t wait for my first finals experience and see what happens,” said David
Usually if you have a good first qualifying run the second you can kind of let the cat out of the bag and go full beans
so I did and managed 5.26 seconds run to get me into 11th.Julian David (NZL)Qualifying for tonight’s final in 16th position was Bassa Mawem of France – winner of last year’s European Qualifier in Rome
and competing in his first World Cup event since Chamonix 2023
just one hundredth ahead of his 19-year-old teammate Jérôme Morel
For the men’s Speed qualification complete results click here
The IFSC World Cup Briançon 2024 will continue tonight with Speed finals
starting at 20:00 (UTC+2:00) and streaming live on the IFSC YouTube channel
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The next round of the IFSC World Cup took place in Briançon last weekend
many qualified athletes chose to sit this event out
but a few used it for some last-minute practice
The Speed discipline had never been part of the 13-year-long-running Briançon event – until now
with two first-time gold medallists: Zento Murashita and Mei Kotake
Lijuan Deng (CHN) earned a confidence-inspiring gold ahead of Paris 2024 and Tokyo 2020 Olympian Ludovico Fossali won his first-ever World Cup gold.
with Murashita Zento winning gold with a score of 47
and Omata Shion completing the sweep and earning bronze with 42+
This is the second year in a row that Japanese men have dominated the Briançon podium
Poland's Aleksandra Miroslaw won the first gold in the history of Olympic Speed Climbing as a single discipline today ahead of China's Lijuan Deng and her Polish teammate Aleksandra Kalucka
It was a fitting win for Miroslaw following h..
The final round of the 2023 IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup circuit took place in Wujiang
where athletes battled for Olympic Qualifier Series points and overall titles
IFSC Lead and Speed 2024
The final round of the IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup in Seoul followed the Boulder event this weekend
GB Climbing's Erin McNeice reached finals and finished 5th in Lead
having won bronze in the IFSC Boulder World Cup just days before...
The first Lead and Speed World Cups of the season took place in Wujiang
just days after the Boulder World Cup in Keqiao wrapped up
As athletes target different events in this Olympic year
In the long history of IFSC World Cup events in Briançon
the Speed discipline have never been part of the programme – until now
Despite many of the top-ranked athletes missing from the starting lists due to the proximity of the Paris 2024 Olympics
the competing climbers put on a show on a highly performing wall
with plenty of new personal bests being set
along with two continental records: Josh Bruyns of South Africa stopped the clock at 5.71 seconds
besting the time he previously set at last week’s World Cup in Chamonix
France; while Julian David of New Zealand continued his progression and wrote a new Oceania record in both of his qualification runs – first with 5.40
China’s Deng Lijuan won gold in the women’s Speed event and led an all-Asian podium that also included South Korea’s Jeong Jimin and teammate Zhang Shaoqin
Deng’s crescendo saw her close with four sub-seven and go from the time of 6.87 seconds she recorded in the round of 16
"I can’t wait to be in Paris for the Olympics
This win gives me so much confidence." "I’m so excited about winning silver," added Jeong
"It is the first silver in the history of my country
I’m so happy." The men’s Speed final also lived up to the expectations of the crowd
the 2019 men’s Speed world champion in Hachioji
ran his first-ever sub-five and won gold with 4.97 – equalling the current men’s European record and taking the second World Cup win of his career
it helps me forget the first part of the season. It was my first sub-five
I just watch if it’s green or red." The podium was completed by China’s Long Jianguo
who placed third after beating Germany’s Leander Carmanns in the bronze medal race
Carmanns with 5.06 – both set a new personal record
In the mountainous region along the French-Italian border
volunteers and activists tirelessly work to welcome and support migrants
their efforts come with significant challenges
My recent research explores how these individuals organise themselves under tough conditions
often using time-consuming and low-profile strategies to avoid detection
I discovered that these volunteers can continue their vital humanitarian work despite facing external pressures
This study emphasises how constraints shape organisational strategies
focusing on the importance of time and adaptability
Future research should investigate why Briançon’s volunteers have more time for activism compared to others
and compare their efforts with those in cities like Nice
Understanding these dynamics can offer valuable lessons on how volunteers and activists navigate challenges in politically charged environments
Fall asleep in Paris and wake up in the heart of the mountains: this is the concept behind the night train service linking Paris to Briançon
with stops planned at several stations in the Hautes-Alpes region (Gap
Already somewhat disparaged by its regular users
traffic on this line will be disrupted again in January
Operating on weekends only (including Fridays, Saturdays and Sunday evenings) or every day during school vacations, the night train line linking Paris to Briançon (or Briançon to Paris in the other direction) is particularly popular with Parisians looking for a weekend in the mountains
or with residents of the Hautes-Alpes who want to get to the capital in the shortest possible time
the line will be disrupted by work carried out by SNCF in the Drôme region
making it impossible to branch off to reach all the stations normally served
To compensate for the lack of night trains during this period
SNCF will be providing replacement coaches: a less comfortable option
but one that can be of great help to outdoor enthusiasts in need of a mountain break
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the IFSC World Cup Series 2024 stops in Chamonix
from 13 to 14 July for a set of Lead and Speed competitions
while only a few days later – 17 to 19 July – the same discplines will be contested in Briançon
Throughout the entire World Cup season, semi-final and final rounds of all Boulder and Lead competitions are going to be live streamed on the YouTube channel of the IFSC
with geo blocking applied to selected countries and territories
Speed qualifications and finals will also be live streamed on the IFSC YouTube channel
with geo restrictions only applied to the latter
Click here for start lists and live results of the World Cup in Chamonix
Click here for start lists and live results of the World Cup in Briançon
The official hashtags of the event are #ChamonixWC and #BriançonWC, with #WorldClimbing grouping contents across all social media platforms throughout the entire season.
A holiday to the French Alps in summer means fresher air
We’re just going to come out and say it: as a summer holiday destination
the range of activities on offer is more varied
and even the air you breathe feels different
and if you’re looking for an escape from the hot
hustle and bustle of summer city life—a concern that’s becoming increasingly pressing as the planet warms—there are few better places to get away to than Serre Chevalier Briançon
Serre Chevalier Briançon is the name given to a collection of villages in the Guisane Valley which
make up one of France's biggest and best-known ski resorts
Villeneuve-La Salle Les Alpes and Le Monêtier les Bains
All four communes sit at around 1,200m above sea level
which makes them an ideal place for a summer holiday—cool and fresh feeling
the nearby Ecrins National Park is home to some of the most stunning alpine scenery anywhere in Europe
Serre Chevalier Briançon is famous in winter for its large
the same cable cars and chairlifts whisk hikers and mountain bikers up to heights of 2,500m
into the heart of a vast network of walking paths
and trails for enduro and bike park riders alike
If you prefer the lycra-clad kind of riding
Serre Chevalier Briançon has you covered too—the infamous Col du Galibier
famously one of the toughest challenges on the Tour de France
is just up the road in one direction; the Col du Granon
You can go white water rafting on the river
or try kayaking down some of its trickier rapids
You can tackle one of the multiple via ferratas which snake between the high alpine peaks
or go rock climbing on any number of bolted sport climbing routes
a natural pool surrounded by wooden platforms
a games area and even a beach volleyball court
The backdrop beats the actual beach hands down
a summer holiday can’t be go-go-go all the time
Thankfully Serre Chevalier Briançon offers plenty of more relaxing distractions too
The natural hot springs of the Grands Bains du Monêtier
which spout from the ground at temperatures of up to 44 degrees celsius
have been known for their healing properties since Roman times
Louis XVI ordered the construction of royal baths here
offers everything you could want from a wellness centre: multiple indoor and outdoor pools
heated to different temperatures; jacuzzis and massage pools; saunas
hammams and salons offering every kind of therapeutic treatment
and even a “musical cave” where chilled sounds help you relax
One of the best things about the Serre Chevalier Briançon area is the city of Briançon itself
are classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site and are well worth a visit for history buffs
there are several local restaurants featured in the Michelin guide
craft breweries and genepi distilleries to explore
there are multiple events and open air concerts throughout the year
the air in Briançon is always cool and refreshing (as it is in the neighbouring villages) making Serre Chevalier Briançon the perfect place to escape from sticky sleepless nights
21 degrees - Average daytime temperature in July & August
4 Separate towns and villages make up the resort
For more information about everything Serre Chevalier Briançon has to offer active summer visitors, go to serre-chevalier.com
The final Lead World Cup before the Paris Olympics wrapped up yesterday in Briançon
Team Japan swept the podium with Zento Murashita taking first
Mei Kotake of Japan won gold in the women’s comp
The team took the top three spots at the men’s Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck a few weeks ago – the country’s third-ever Boulder World Cup podium sweep
At last year’s Briançon Lead World Cup
Team Japan incredibly swept the top six spots in the men’s final
Two months later at the Wujiang Lead World Cup
At the Boulder & Lead Combined World Cup in 2022
the men swept the podium while teammate Ai Mori won gold in women’s
There is currently no other national team on the comp circuit with the depth of talent of Team Japan
When their best climbers sit out of an event – as Tomoa Narasaki
and others did for this comp – the team can still has a ton of talent they can rely upon
six of the eight men’s finalists were from Japan
Team Japan athletes have held at least two podium spots in one of the gender categories
Briançon marks the first-ever gold medals for both Murashita and Kotake
this result is a bit surprising to me,” said Murashita after his win
and climb very well.” Kotake was also suprised with her gold-medal win
“I still can’t believe I have won my first gold,” she said
“It’s been a long journey for me to get on the World Cup podium
and I’m happy I made it.” Kotake was joined on the podium by Paris Olympian Laura Rogora of Italy in second and Austrian Mattea Pötzi in third
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Long time opponents of French Alps’ bid to host the 2030 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games have planned a last minute protest to try to topple the project while it is vulnerable
Due to be ratified by International Olympic Committee (IOC) membership at a Session in Paris on July 24
the bid still needs to solidify elusive guarantees from an interim government
The NO JO organization has planned a bicycle ride from proposed host region Grand Bornand to IOC headquarters in Lausanne
Switzerland on Friday (July 19) to ask those in charge of the Olympic Movement to cancel the bid
organizers estimate the ride will take eight hours through the French Alps to the shores of Lake Geneva
riders say they will ask for “the withdrawal of the French candidacy,” according to the group’s Facebook account
“Its expiry must be officially and urgently requested and discussed with the IOC.”
But when the peloton arrives at Olympic House
High level IOC members will instead be in Paris on the eve of their Executive Board meeting planned for Saturday at the heavily secured Hôtel du Collectionneur that will also serve as the Olympic Family Hotel during the Paris 2024 Games
On the meeting’s agenda: the 2030 Olympic Winter Games bid
The protestors claim not enough public consultation has taken place to validate the bid and climate change will make hosting the 2030 event unsustainable and without any useful legacy
NO JO spokesperson Stéphane Passeron told reporters “this application is the future vision that [the regional governors] have for the Alps
Passeron and ecologist and lawyer Pierre Janot are leading the ride that has been timed as the bid committee faces another existential challenge just days before stakeholders are due to sign the host contract in the French capital
Snap elections held July 7 across France delivered inconclusive results and politicians are scrambling to form a coalition government
Prime Minister Gabriel Attal saw his party fall to second place but was asked by President Emmanuel Macron to remain in his position in the interim to maintain stability
Attal’s ability to sign the required Games Delivery Guarantee may no longer be in effect without popular support and if a new coalition is formed before the July 24 deadline
the new stakeholders may not be willing to sign the guarantee promised by the former government
The IOC’s Executive Board approved the French bid in June pending receipt of the signed guarantee that was already months overdue
At the time the IOC said it was confident it would receive the promised signatures after the July 7 election and prior to the planned final member ratification
Election results put French Alps 2030 Winter Olympics at Risk. What happens next?
Now Renaud Muselier who is President of proposed host region Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur says he is “very worried” about the situation
When asked if President Macron can sign the document in the current political context Muselier told French business media outlet Gomet “I don’t know
Muselier has reportedly been in frequent contact with the President who is expected to meet with IOC president Thomas Bach Monday
If the guarantee is not delivered by July 24
the French Alps cannot be elected at the Session
That doesn’t mean the French Alps won’t eventually be awarded the Games
but the ratification vote will need to be pushed to a future Session
The next time all members are scheduled to gather is next year in Athens
Greece when the IOC will hold its own presidential election
but that may be too long to wait if France eventually delivers the required signatures
the IOC could hold an earlier virtual extraordinary Session to elect French Alps 2030
on July 24 the French Alps bid will deliver a 30 minute presentation to over 100 IOC members at approximately 9:00am local time in Paris
A senior producer and award-winning journalist covering Olympic bid business as founder of GamesBids.com as well as providing freelance support for print and Web publications around the world
Robert Livingstone is a member of the Olympic Journalists Association and the International Society of Olympic Historians
With top climbers including in-form Olympic champion Garnbret electing to skip the last IFSC World Cup round before next month's World Championships, Lukan - who suffered a succession of knee injuries earlier this year - claimed her first World Cup win ahead of Czechia's Eliska Adamovska and home climber Manon Hily.
Martina Demmel was first to go in her first final, and negotiated the foot-first section just after midway before coming off at 34+.
As Camille Pouget approached the same spot as Demmel, she started to grimace with what looked like cramp, but managed to match the German's 34+ and move into the lead thanks to her better semi-final showing.
Then came Lukan who went higher than her two rivals, fighting her way up to move 46 before coming off the wall.
France's Manon Hily looked the most comfortable on the way up with Lukan's mark in her sights, but she came off at 44.
Molly Thompson-Smith was left wondering what might have been in her first final for four years, as the Briton pulled off a strong move before slipping off at 35 when she had more to give, and then Tanii Natsuki came down head-in-hands after hesitating and missing an early jump.
Her teammate Kume Nonoha paid the price for a somewhat slow ascent and had to rush as she approached the moves which would land her on the podium. And she came off at 43 to go into third place with just Eliska Adamovska to go with the home crowd celebrating as Hily was guaranteed a medal.
The Czech made good progress but could not pass Lukan's mark although her 44+ saw her move head of Hily thanks to her semi-final performance.
Afterwards, Lukan told IFSC, "I'm speechless. I did not expect it. I don't know what happened. I just climbed and enjoyed the route. I gave it all, I fought hard and I'm really surprised, I'm just happy.
"It's been a really tough season. I injured my knee in January and then again in February. I didn't climb until the middle of April. I suffered an ACL tear and a meniscus tear and I went through surgery. They removed half of the meniscus so, yeah, it was a really tough season so this means a lot to me. It's just amazing."
Anraku Sorato continued to cement reputation as one of the world's best young climbers as the 16-year-old secured his first lead World Cup victory and his second World Cup win in a space of a month
There were no fewer than seven Japanese climbers in the men's final - a World Cup record - and the course setters could feel satisfied with a route which appeared reasonably straightforward until a complex sloper section after move 35 where fatigue soon set in
Ogata Yoshiyuki was the first to go and made almost serene progress until coming off at move 49
Next up was Omata Shion who was not quite as quick as his countryman
also made his way quickly up to the pressure point
and was awarded a 49+ after coming close to clipping on with his rope
And after Uemura Haruki could only reach 37
Homma Taisei reached the same point as Yoshida with his superior semi-final score securing him the lead
Sweden's Hannes Puman had to use more energy than his rivals on his ascent and fought hard
but 39 was not enough to prevent a Japanese podium sweep
Higuchi Masahiro was another who struggled early on but fought through it before posting 40 leaving him outside the medals
managed to clip on and then become the only man to top the route for his second World Cup victory having won the last month's boulder event at Innsbruck
The IFSC’s World Cup circuit rolled into Briançon
It was the last stop on the circuit’s European swing before the upcoming World Championships
a multi-disciplinary event in Switzerland that will have hefty Olympic implications
the results of the lead discipline at Briançon gave an enticing sneak-peek of some athletes that might be performatively peaking at just the right time to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olympics
Here’s a rundown of all the action from Briançon…
In many ways, it felt like the women’s portion of the event began as a continuation of last weekend’s World Cup in Chamonix
shot to the top of the leaderboard in the qualification round at Briançon
prompting speculation that she might be on her way to another gold medal
And it absolutely would have made for a wonderful
But Kim’s chances came to an abrupt end in the ensuing semi-final round; she slipped unexpectedly at the lip of the headwall and had to settle for an eventual 14th place
fell in the exact same spot on the semi-finals route
thus creating a significant opportunity for other competitors to surge ahead of the undeniable favorites
one of the best performances in the semi-finals came from the Czech Republic’s Eliska Adamovska
who scaled the route’s lower “battery-shaped volumes” and crimped her way to a high point (49+) on the headwall
That score was enough to give Adamovska a narrow lead
but Japan’s Nonoha Kume wasn’t far behind on the scorecards (49)
a cruxy right-hand crimp on the headwall caused a bottleneck at the 45th hold and allowed any semblance of separation below Adamovska and Kume to be murky at best
The final round kicked off with its own mini-bottleneck: Germany’s Martina Demmel and France’s Camille Pouget both ascended to the headwall before failing on a leftward launch for the 35th hold
Their woes on the burly finals route hinted that most scores in the round could be somewhat low
in stark contrast to her modest start to the event (13th place in the qualification round)
romped through the headwall’s feet-first mantle crux
France’s Manon Hily put forth a valiant effort on the headwall too (aided by the loud French crowd)
but she pumped out two moves shy of Lukan’s mark
also roused the crowd as she approached Lukan’s high point
Adamovska and Hily were separated by countback—Adamovska with the silver
If the women’s division possessed a theme of an ever-changing leaderboard throughout the rounds
The consistent standout for the men was Japan’s Sorato Anraku
He was the only competitor to reach the top of both routes in the qualification round
and he carried such consistency into the semi-final round as well—where he once again topped the route
Masahiro Higuchi also reached the top of the semi-finals route
Taisei Homma and Haruki Uemura did not top the route
but they came close—each with concluding scores of 45+
And Satone Yoshida was right below them on the scorecards with a mark of 43+
a total of seven members of Team Japan advanced to the men’s final round—a new record; the sole outlier in the finals
Yoshida and Homma set early high points in the final round
progressing to the headwall and getting stymied while attempting to lock onto a dual-tex sloper
but fell much lower on the route while readjusting a slippery right-hand
contextualized by commentator Matt Groom as “probably the favorite on paper.” Indeed
Anraku made quick work of the route’s lower section and breezed over pair of sloper volumes that led to the headwall
Then Anraku coasted through the cruxy dual-tex sloper to establish a new high point—and
Anraku clinched the gold medal—his first-ever in the lead discipline—in dominant fashion; Homma and Yoshida
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2023In a jaw-dropping display of sheer skill and unbridled courage
snowboarder Pierre Vaultier recently took on the ultimate pump track at Serre Chevalier Briançon
leaving the world of winter sports enthusiasts awestruck
captures Vaultier's fearless descent down a unique course that promises no speed checks
Serre Chevalier Briançon boasts a rich history as one of the most legendary ski resorts in the world
has been a haven for winter sports enthusiasts for decades
it offers the perfect blend of picturesque scenery and challenging terrain
making it a mecca for skiing and snowboarding
The track's unforgiving design demanded impeccable balance
His seemingly effortless descent showcased his exceptional mastery of the snowboard and an unparalleled level of fearlessness
Vaultier's extraordinary ride at Serre Chevalier Briançon serves as a testament to the endless possibilities within the world of extreme sports
It's not just a heart-pounding spectacle; it's an affirmation of human potential and the enduring spirit of adventure in the breathtaking backdrop of the French Alps.
Don't miss another headline from SNOWBOARDER! Subscribe to our newsletter and stay connected with the latest happenings in the world of snowboarding
An 11-year-old child was seriously injured after falling from a ski lift at a resort in southeast France
prompting an inquiry into how the accident happened
It happened on Sunday, January 12 at the Risoul ski station (Hautes-Alpes, Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur), reported the Briançon PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne, mountain rescue service) to BFM DICI
The child’s injuries are not said to be life-threatening
but were severe enough that they were airlifted to the Briançon hospital by helicopter
The gendarmerie has now opened an inquiry into the circumstances of the incident in a bid to determine how it happened.
The incident comes weeks after a severe ski lift crash in the resort of Val Thorens (Savoie) injured eight workers
The public prosecutor in that case has suggested that the accident may have been caused by human error
but “this does not rule out other technical causes that investigations could determine”
Read more: Human error may have caused Val Thorens ski lift crash, says prosecutor
Read also: Man dies after falling 40 metres from cable car at French ski resort
a ski lift breakdown in the resort of SuperDévoluy (Hautes-Alpes) required the evacuation of 240 people via helicopter
and a team from the department's fire and rescue service
Read also: 240 skiers evacuated by helicopter after French ski lift breaks down
The resort is set to remain open to the public and not only to professionals
Authorities are instead planning a ‘four season model’ – but some locals are not happy
The Travelski Night Express will begin service this December and start selling tickets in May
A British man died while kayaking in the river Durance in south-east France on Tuesday June 12
A rescue operation was launched on Tuesday afternoon to help “kayakers in difficulty in the river”
the police of the Hautes-Alpes department said on X.
Local media report a group of British kayakers got into difficulty while on the river
Three people were spotted struggling in the river
two trying to help a third who had flipped over
“I confirm the death of a man of English nationality,” public prosecutor Marion Lozac'hmeur told Dauphiné Libéré.
The paper said the kayakers were part of an organised group on the river
Kayaking is a popular activity in the area
An investigation has been launched into the cause of the incident
The high level of the water because of melting snow appears to have been a factor
It comes after the death of an Irish kayaker on Monday in Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye
President Trump is cited as a major factor
but is not the only reason for the area’s popularity
Airport figures exceeded the pre-Covid record last year
City council reduce time that a property can be rented to short-term guests
The secret is out on a Southern Alps destination long overlooked by British skiers
Lifestyle | Travel
The buzz of excitement was palpable when Didier proposed his plan for my final day’s skiing at Serre Chevalier
Does that sound okay?” the instructor asked our small group who had skied with him through our sunny week in the southern Alps
we had assembled outside our Club Med resort each morning and afternoon
ready to hone our technique under Didier’s expert eye while exploring the 410 hectares of marked runs and many more off-piste areas that make up the largest ski area in the region
We had traversed mile after mile of mostly blue and red runs
sometimes having to bus it back to our warm and welcoming accommodation from one of the other villages we skied into – tired but exhilarated – in the valley at the end of the day
before meeting up with our children for some family-friendly apres-ski
Now we were ready for our ultimate challenge
My eyes squinted in the bright sunshine as Didier pointed to the Pic de L’yret
“Are there any sheer drops at the edge of the run?” I asked him nervously
but after four days of thrilling skiing I wasn’t going to bail out now
after arriving at the top of the long open chairlift ride is staggeringly beautiful
a full panorama of the southern Alps emerged
Didier pointed out the landmark peaks that had come into view: to the west
Barre des Ecrins (4,102m) and La Meije (3,984m)
a spectacular red run Didier chose over the alternative
After successfully negotiating the tricky first few turns
we headed off into a vast expanse of eminently skiable off-piste snow
trying our hand at a few little jumps and natural half-pipe sections
After skiing all the way back to the Club Med hotel
situated yards from a gentle green run just a couple of hundred yards up the slope from the Pontillas gondola station
we reflected on a spectacular end to the day – and week – over a beer in the hotel lounge
while reuniting with our equally happy children
Club Med Serre Chevalier lies in the heart of the southern Alps
a region that is off the radar for many Brits due to its lengthy three-hour drive from popular alpine fly-in hubs like Geneva and Lyon
it is a much more palatable 1hr 45mins transfer from Turin
Gatwick and Luton served by British Airways
The drive past picturesque Italian villages and mountaintop forts is spectacular
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Club Med recently reopened its Serre Chevalier resort after an extensive renovation
The décor is in keeping with broader Club Med style – warm
There is a strong emphasis on natural wood and textiles
creating a sense of connection with nature
which adjoins an expansive central lounge filled with super comfortable sofas and pouffes in bright and cheery shades of red
A large spiralling staircase connects the lounge connects with the main restaurant a floor above and the ski room one below
Children will enjoy running around on all the soft carpets and rugs
Spacious and ultra-comfortable rooms cater for families or couples
most including balconies overlooking the mountains
Ours had a children’s room (balcony) with two single beds interconnected with the main adult bedroom
Each has its own bathroom which helps a lot when you’re trying to get two kids ready for the slopes at the same time
There is loads of storage space for all those salopettes and jackets as well as your casual non-ski gear
wood and natural textiles are again to the fore
with checked throws adding a dash of colour on the white linen
The buffet restaurant offers a seemingly-endless range of delicious options
which change through the week so you never get tired of the ‘same old thing’
my list of favourites can be easily reeled off: clam gnocchi (how good?!)
croziflette (traditional French mountain pasta bake with bacon and reblochon cheese)
And even the fussiest of children should also be easily pleased
with plenty of unadventurous-but-tasty favourites like burger
the house wine and draught lager (Kronenburg) are very decent
while the bartenders will happily serve up pretty much any cocktail you desire
you can adopt the ‘all you can eat/drink’ approach without fear of consequence
The beauty of Club Med Serre Chevalier is how easy everything is
Once you’ve been fitted with boots and skis
it’s super simple to get on the slopes as it is a “ski-in/ski-out” resort
The hotel runs a ski club for children aged four and upwards
leaving mum and dad free to hit the slopes at their leisure
Any youngsters less keen on skiing can join an indoor kids club where staff are on hand to keep them entertained with plenty of games and crafting materials
while teenagers have their own designated space to hang out
The resort also has an indoor swimming pool with huge windows affording views across the slopes and mountains beyond
where a range of wellness treatments are available for an extra charge
A full programme of entertainment is offered every evening in a big theatre that adjoins the lounge - including quizzes for kids
Have your phones at the ready at lunch time
when a Club Med DJ will usually be mixing some tunes on the sunny (if the weather is playing ball) terrace
drinks and even the occasional colourful smoke bomb as the staff (or ‘Gentile Organisers’
Seven nights all-inclusive stay at Club Med Serre-Chevalier
French Alps from £2,905 per adult (based on double occupancy) with return flights from London with transfers included
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The third World Cup in three weeks took place in Briançon
A few big names were missing from the men’s competition
and the semi-final round knocked out a few usual finalists
but there was still no shortage of talent in Finals
Canadian fans were excited to see Sean McColl coming out fourth to last
while Americans were psyched to see Sean Bailey making Finals for the first time this season
as well as finishing semi-finals in the top spot
ended up in 5th behind Bosi’s 4th due to a countback to Semis
16-year old Hidemasa Nishida climbed first and ended up in first
Silver went to Hiroto Shimizu and Bronze to Shuta Tanaka
Slovenia’s superpower Janja Garnbret was back in Finals
after missing the final round for the first time in her career in Chamonix last week
Garnbret finished third in the semi-final round behind two 15-year old climbers
Natsuki Tanii from Japan and Chaehyun Seo from Korea
The Finals route was superbly set with only two ties and mostly increasing high-points
After Mia Krampl matched Ashima Shiraishi’s highpoint (hold 36)
Garnbret came out and gave a spectacular effort to top the route (hold 42) to a wildly cheering crowd
Tanii came close to topping but fell on the final dyno
and earned herself a second win and third podium in three weeks of World Cup competitions
A remarkable feat for such a young climber
FULL RESULTS HERE
the fourth Lead World Cup of 2023 was held in Briançon
Japan absolutely dominated the men’s competition
with seven of the top eight finalists representing the country
World Cup newcomer Sorato Anraku won gold after being the only athlete to top the men’s route
The 16-year-old has been on a tear this World Cup season
taking gold in the Innsbruck boulder event and winning the overall 2023 boulder season
he is the first climber from Japan to win both a Boulder and Lead World Cup event
Anraku has been incredibly consistent thus far in the 2023 Lead World Cup
making the finals at each event – a laudable achievement in and of itself
Is he on his way to win the overall season for both boulder and lead
It’s a feat that’s never been done within the same year in men’s World Cup competition
“I’m surprised to win,” said Anraku after earning gold
“I love doing both Boulder and Lead and I want to win more medals
I really want to win the World Championships as well
I practice a lot and I want to win them all.”
Anraku was joined by teammates Taisei Homma and Satone Yoshida on the podium
Both athletes fell moving towards hold number 50
her first time ever standing atop a Lead World Cup podium
Her success in the series this year has been remarkable as she’s coming off a recent serious knee injury
Lukan reached hold 46 and was followed closely by Czech Republic’s Eliska Adamovska and France’s Manon Hily who both fell moving towards hold 45
Adamovska won silver and Manon bronze based on their semi-final standings
I’m speechless,” said Lukan after her victory
I injured my knee in January and then again in February and I didn’t climb from then until the middle of April
I had an ACL tear and a meniscus tear so I went through surgery where they removed half of the meniscus
Briançon hosted what would become the first
International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) World Cup of 2020
The long awaited competition opened to an excited
audience who celebrated 17 of the world’s greatest climbers
The competition began with a semifinal’s round before moving to Finals the following day
According to a press release from the IFSC
this competition would become the most internationally broadcasted World Cup in history
“Compared to last year’s World Cup in Briançon
the number of broadcasting deals signed by the IFSC increased by 38%
This is a promising sight amidst the pandemic as it lends hope to an industry struggling under the weight of COVID-related climbing restrictions
According to IFSC President Marco Scolaris
The IFSC is proud to give the stage here in Briançon (FRA) to our athletes who were able to travel and participate in the event
The battle against the COVID-19 pandemic is not over
but we want to give hope to those who are fighting and those who cannot travel
May the images of our athletes climbing inspire our world.”
The Finals rounds on August 22 brought with them strong performances from Italy’s Laura Rogora and the Czech Republic’s Adam Ondra. The rounds opened with the women’s Finals, in which Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret would climb proficiently
topping the final’s route alongside Rogora
Though they performed equally well in Finals
Garnbret would take home the silver after not placing as highly as Rogora in the semifinal round
Rogora’s win would be her first World Cup Podium of her career
Rounding out the podium, France’s Fanny Gibert would take home bronze in what would become her first Lead Final
Gibert’s performance is impressive as she is classically known for her strength in bouldering on the international circuit
Gibert would go on to dedicate her climb to her late teammate Luce Douady
For the men, Ondra appeared to dominate the competition as the only climber to top out the final’s route. Slovenia’s Domen Skofic would finish in second after a strong performance, while Austria’s Jakob Schubert would take home third. Ondra release a video about the competition here
Though Briançon will be the only World Cup of 2020
and Oceania Continental Championships are still scheduled to take place this year
Luce’s family closed the highly emotional event with a 7,500 euro donation to CAC (Climbers Against Cancer)
The tribute concluded with Luce’s own words
I feel a joy that I can’t conceal; a joy that’s so pure
that it has to spill out… I spread it everywhere: to each face
I pass on my love of life and my cheerfulness.”
Featured photo of Jakob Schubert by Jan Virt
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Following three World Cup lead events in as many weeks, patterns are beginning to emerge.
Germany’s Alex Megos has a number of outdoor accomplishments to his name, including sends of numerous famed 5.15 climbs like La Rambla and Perfecto Mundo. However, until last weekend, he had never won a World Cup event. Here he eyes up the top hold during the Finals in preparation for a sideways lunge. Although unsuccessful, the attempted move marked a highpoint (45+) for the men’s field.
This year’s competition at Briançon took place in a new venue—the town’s Sports Center, notably bigger than the setting of previous year’s events. Here the women’s field—including the U.S. frontrunner Ashima Shiraishi in her trademark long, elaborately designed shorts—heads to the new center’s wall for the start of the Semi-Final round.
Japan’s Moe Yoshimura, pictured here heading onto the steeper section of the women’s Semi-Finals route, was one of the few competitors from her country to participate at Briançon. Big names like Akiyo Noguchi and Miho Nonaka were absent due to their participation in the Asian Continental Games.
Sweden’s Hannes Puman targets a screw-on catch amid the burly midsection of the men’s semi-finals route. He earned a respectable 14th place finish at Briançon. In addition to competing, Puman has recently been working on several outdoor projects at France’s legendary crag of Céüse with Germany’s Alex Megos.
For a brief time in the Semi-Finals, Sean Bailey of the United States held the highpoint (36+), but as the competition went on, it was not enough to advance to the next round.
With South Korea’s Jain Kim absent from Briançon for the Asian Continental Games, Seuran Han (pictured here) became that country’s best hope for a podium. Although she ultimately finished at 22nd and did not advance to the Finals, her adroit performance in Semi-Finals indicated that South Korea’s women’s team has some depth this season.
Canada’s Sean McColl, who previously lived in France, emerged from the isolation area to substantial applause from the French crowd—and commenced to reach a high point of 33+ on the wall in the Semi-Finals. The weekend marked McColl’s official return to lead competition at the World Cup level.
McColl approaches the headwall en route to his personal highpoint in the semi-final round. He missed some vital rests that previous competitors had utilized. It will be interesting to see if McColl, an undeniable circuit legend, gets back into the head of the pack as the season progresses.
Ashima Shiraishi makes her attempt on the semi-finals route as drizzly weather clears and the sun sinks lower in the sky. Shiraishi has looked strong and fluid in all of her World Cup climbs, and any ensuing event this season could see a gold medal performance from her.
Here, shrouded by the event lights at dusk in the Semi-Finals, Shiraishi deadpoints to a series of slopers on the headwall’s lip. The slopers would ultimately get her too pumped to reach the top, but not before she earned a place in the Finals.
Semi-Finals concluded with a stellar performance from Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret as the rain began again. Garnbret was not able to top the round’s difficult route, but her highpoint made a strong statement heading into the following day’s Finals.
Slovenia’s Domen Škofic had a chance to match—or best—Megos’s highpoint, as the entire men’s competition came down to the final move on the headwall. Škofic ultimately couldn’t snag the top, but he still finished the competition with a place on the podium.
Belgium’s Anak Verhoeven stabilizes herself with a heel hook as she progresses onto the headwall in the women’s Finals. Verhoeven has improved steadily with each competition this season, and her score of 46+ at Briançon was enough to nudge Shiraishi off the podium and earn Verhoeven a third place finish.
Garnbret tops out the women’s finals route, earning her second victory for the 2018 season. Her talent and ability were appropriately summarized by commentator Mike Langley, who said that Garnbret “never has a bad day, never has an off move, [and] never reads a sequence badly.”
Garnbret (center), victorious, with the other members of the women’s podium—Austria’s Jessica Pilz (left) with the silver medal, and Verhoeven (right) with the bronze.
Although France’s Romain Desgranges (left) and Škofic (right) earned places on the podium, it was Megos (center) who stood highest at the end of the event—and was finally able to add a World Cup win to his already exhaustive climbing resume.
A post shared by Sean McColl (@mccollsean)
The most impressive performance in the men’s Semi-Finals was that of Slovenia’s Domen Škofic
who managed his time well on the route despite not finding the strategic respite that the commentators called “the thank God kneebar.” Škofic fell a few moves shy from the top but
kept alive his hope of reaching a podium for the first time this season
While there were reports that she got into a shouting match with her coach following Qualifiers
any lingering frustration was not evident; she appeared focused before getting pumped on the headwall
three other Slovenian women advanced to the Finals along with Markovič—Vita Lukan
Charlie Boscoe and Mike Langley wondered whether Shiraishi’s short stature would pose a problem for the reachy moves on the women’s semi-finals route
not only did Shiraishi cruise through the crimps of the midsection without any issues
she employed a high heel hook to smoothly move beyond the lip of the headwall—a spot that had proven to be a crux for previous competitors
By the time Shiraishi pumped out on the open-hand slopers near the route’s top
Boscoe and Langley were wondering whether the subsequent Finals would see Shiraishi’s first-ever World Cup event victory
The men’s Finals got underway on Saturday night with an enjoyably old-school route: no funky handholds or requisite body contortions
just a lot of crimps prompting resistance-style movement up the wall
Switzerland’s Sascha Lehmann and Japan’s Hiroto Shimizu proceeded through a lower section of football-shaped volumes but struggled in the field of large yellow volumes farther up
fresh off his victory at Chamonix the week before
made it higher but fumbled with a quickdraw clip and could not pull through the headwall’s crimpy traverse
The route’s traditional style suited Megos, who has outdoor sends of old-school classics like Biographie and Hubble. He moved effortlessly through the yellow volumes that had stymied other competitors
smeared at the top as he worked through the headwall’s crimps
and barely missed sticking the sideways lunge for the top (1:03:02 in the livestream)
It was a remarkable effort that the last competitor of the heat
Megos’ highpoint of 45+ thus marked the decorated German’s first win on the World Cup stage
Bailey’s 10th place finish was the highest of the American men
with Kai Lightner at 41 and Drew Ruana rounding out the top 50
Markovič kicked off the women’s finals route
a sequence of connected wedge-shaped volumes
She used a wide right foot to get her body nearly horizontal (2:02:34 in the livestream) on the lip of the headwall
Her score of 39+ wasn’t enough to earn a medal
but it showed marked improvement from previous events this season
but succumbed to a big move off an undercling sloper
A spot on the podium continues to elude Shiraishi
but her consistency thus far—she’s made Finals in every event she’s competed in—has been impressive
The women’s Finals became a nail-biter after Austria’s Pilz topped the route with two competitors still on deck
Belgium’s Anak Verhoeven was not able to duplicate Pilz’s top
which left the door open for the last climber—Garnbret—to pursue victory
Garnbret made easy work of the volume sequences
she did so from an even lower foothold than the one Pilz utilized (2:39:08 in the livestream)
Garnbret has won the overall title for the last two years
and another theme that has emerged this season is whether she’ll be able to repeat that outstanding feat
So far—with the victory at Briançon—she’s a contender
There was no Speed portion during the weekend
although a Paraclimbing Cup made its debut earlier in the week and featured a number of categories
It was marked by exciting performances from Great Britain’s athletes—particularly Abigail Robinson
who won the women’s Visual Impairment discipline
who won in the men’s Forearm Amputee category
who won one of the women’s RP (Limited Range
France’s Thierry Delarue earned a victory in the AL category as a leg amputee
The IFSC’s World Cup blitz continues next week (July 27-28) with an event in Arco, Italy. See our 2018 Climbing Competition Calendar for the full schedule
The fourth entry in the 2022 IFSC (International Federation of Sport Climbing) Lead World Cup series went off with a bang in Briançon
The IFSC Lead World Cup returned to the French Alps following a week-long break from circuit competition
and the respite seemed to pay off for at least a few climbers
It appeared to benefit the federation’s route-setting team
After receiving some glaring criticism from high places for setting substandard routes in the past two competitions
the IFSC’s setters finally stuck the landing in Briançon
Narrow victories came in both the men’s and women’s divisions. In the end, Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret continued her unbroken reign over the season
who’d previously won bronze and silver this season
Grupper is quickly becoming one of the most consistent performers of the 2022 lead season
a number of climbers joined Garnbret in criticizing the route setting in Innsbruck
which nearly all the climbers topped in the finals round
The setting was notably more attuned in Briançon
None of the women made it to the top of the final route this weekend
just brushing the top hold before popping off and scoring 42+
The maneuver put her one point ahead of silver medallist Korea’s Chaehyun Seo
Natalia Grossman (USA) and teammate Brooke Raboutou appeared tied for bronze with 41 points
but countbacks ultimately broke the tie in Grossman’s favor
It’s Garnbret’s 53rd World Cup medal and 36th gold
It’s also her 22nd gold in Lead alone
a stat that places her third in the all-time Lead World Cup ranking
just behind South Korea’s Jain Kim and Austria’s Angela Eiter
Women’s Lead World Cup Results
It was a perfect competition for the U.S.’s Jesse Grupper
Not only did the 25-year-old display the top performances in the qualifying round
but he also duplicated his performance in the semi-finals
and was one of just two climbers in the semis to top the route
Though none of the men’s competitors managed to top the final route in Briançon
Grupper came the closest by controlling the 37th hold
It’s his third podium finish in four Lead competitions this year
“I’m still pretty much in shock and super psyched
I feel like that was probably one of the worst climbed routes of my life in some ways
but also I was just so psyched to keep fighting through each move and it felt so good to pull it off,” Grupper said
took second in men’s with a score of 35+
It’s Homma’s second consecutive silver medal and third podium this season — he took gold in Villars
Germany’s Alexander Megos stepped into third
Countbacks to the semi-final round broke the tie
It’s the first time this season that Megos has stepped onto the podium
He landed his last IFSC medal at the 2021 Lead competition in Villars
Men’s Lead World Cup Results
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