Via Francigena
A rather curious phenomenon can be observed here in Northern France
Popping up throughout the predominantly flat and slightly undulating landscape that’s surrounding us
At first we didn’t pay too much attention to them
but seeing them along the entire walk from Amettes to Bruay-la-Buissière today
we started wondering: how come mother nature created these weird anomalies
Upon arrival to Bruay-la-Buissière we were offered a surprise visit to one of the former mines in the area
and we got a little sneak peak into what life must have been like so many meters underground
Back in the day resources were scarse and working conditions far from healthy
and indeed our guide explained to us that especially in the past accidents were not uncommon
including children as young as 8 years old
All just in order for us to be comfortable and have electricity and heat at our disposal
It’s a good eye-opener to understand how lucky we are to be living in this age that protects workers and children much more and that safeguards our personal health
By far the best part of the day was the fact that we were hosted at the Cité des Electriciens
a former mining village that was built between 1856 an 1861 to host the families of the miners working for the Compagnie des mines de Bruay
This little village was left abandoned since 1979 when mining activities seized
but back in 2008 restoration works started
It is now an amazingly beautiful piece of cultural heritage that is worth a visit
A truly unique and authentic experience that we will not forget
F.A.Q
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The latest film from the Godmother of the French New Wave plays as a capstone to her career
and a symbolic passing of the torch to the next generation
Like many films about an unlikely on-screen duo
The couple in this case is not a romantic couple but an artistic one: Agnès Varda
the 89-year-old stalwart of the French New Wave
a 34-year-old street artist commonly known as the “French Banksy.” Seen side by side
a plump and matronly figure with her trademark red-and-white bowl cut
the lanky hipster sporting a signature fedora and sunglasses
the film begins by telling us how they did not meet: not on a road (cut to the two artists passing each other by on a country lane); not on the dance floor (cut to the sprightly Varda busting moves at a nightclub); not at a bus stop or a bakery
he sought out Varda to share his appreciation for her life’s work—and to explore a collaboration
The film that follows is at once the result of and the depiction of that collaborative process
It sends Varda and JR on a road trip across France
in a photo-booth truck that can spit out massive prints of its subjects like oversized Polaroids
Stopping at various villages throughout the French countryside
the filmmakers create photographic portraits of the ordinary French citizens they encounter
and then blow up the photos to create large-format street murals and public art in the places where they live
the mode is a familiar one: like her celebrated documentaries The Gleaners and I and The Beaches of Agnès
the new film features Varda prominently as both artist and subject
musing on her personal life and artistic legacy at the twilight of her career
Faces Places is much more playful and less esoteric than it might sound
For all her high-art credentials and penchant for experimentation
Varda has never been a ponderous filmmaker
and her later films in particular are marked by a disarming and deceptively breezy tone
Varda’s latest (and likely last) film moves along briskly and goes down easily
amusing sight gags and likable personalities
Yet its surface pleasures also point to more profound depths
Coming from a New Wave filmmaker approaching 90 years of age
Faces Places plays like a capstone to Varda’s career
Agnès Varda has long occupied a complex position in the French New Wave
the iconoclastic film movement that propelled a new generation of auteurs to the forefront of French cinema beginning in the late 1950s
Though sometimes called the Godmother of the New Wave
Varda was also in important respects an outlier
there is the obvious fact of her gender: in a movement and profession largely dominated by men
Varda was the rare woman to find both critical acclaim and lasting success
and her films often feature feminist subjects and themes
Nor did Varda arrive at her career through the usual route
the polemical film journal whose pages launched the careers of Jean-Luc Godard
who were all film critics before they picked up a camera
Varda had a broader interest in the art world than many of her movie-mad counterparts
associating with the “Left Bank” group of filmmakers who also ran in Parisian literary circles
Yet even as she stood somewhat outside of the New Wave
predated Truffaut’s The 400 Blows and Godard’s Breathless by a full four years
while pointing the way to a new mode of shoestring-budget filmmaking that those directors would later embrace
It is a typically generous judgment on Varda’s part
speaking to her openness to finding new artistic collaborators like her former contemporaries in the New Wave
for a member of a film movement that famously celebrated the director as singular auteur
Varda here places a premium on collaboration
and not just with her official co-director
Faces Places is in many ways a work of collective art
with its subjects participating in the artistic process at every turn
animated title scroll celebrating the film’s crowd-sourced funders: a kind of democratic gesture
placing the audience on an equal collaborative level as the artists
this collaborative impulse becomes ever more clear
Varda and JR treat their subjects as equal partners
depicting them according to the concerns and circumstances of their own daily lives
a run-down coal town in the north of France
an elderly coal miner’s daughter who is the only soul still living in old workers’ housing that has been slated for destruction
As Varda interviews Jeanine and the town’s other residents—who share nostalgic anecdotes of its bygone industrial heyday
and melancholy memories of the scars their fathers brought home from work each day—JR prepares a larger-than-life tribute to Jeanine
imprinting a mural of her face on the outside of her home
bringing grateful tears to the eyes of the woman whom Varda dubs “la Résistante” for her stubborn devotion to her hometown
the scene also conveys a sense of loss and impermanence
Varda and JR’s artistic project—to create tangible
tactile representations of their subjects in the places they inhabit—is not just a crowd-pleasing or feel-good exercise
It is also an attempt to pay tribute to lives and lifestyles that are rapidly receding into the past
Faces Places is thus a work of ethnography as much as iconography—a cinematic travelogue that seeks to preserve
Not all of the film’s subjects are elderly
nor do they all express nostalgia for some bygone era
But the film’s choice of locations speaks to Varda’s appreciation of small-town French life
while hinting at the dislocations that globalization has brought to such communities
a tiny country town where one farmer with a computerized tractor does work that once employed dozens
“I consider myself a passenger in the tractor,” he says as he climbs into the machine
presses a few buttons on a touch screen and watches it roam up and down his vast agricultural holdings
Marx might have had something to say about the alienation of this particular worker; Varda
muses in voiceover about the loneliness of his job
Underlying all these encounters is Varda’s abiding interest in France’s working classes and a certain nostalgia for the postwar economic model that sustained their way of life
The art that she and JR create pays tribute to these workers
emphasizing the individuality of each subject with idiosyncratic representations at their otherwise anonymous workplaces
The farmer gets a gigantic mural of himself on the face of his barn
The day-shift and night-shift workers of a chemical plant are depicted on the factory walls
each group reaching out to the other in a gesture of solidarity
Varda and JR pay tribute to the dockworkers’ wives
imprinting their portraits on a tall stack of shipping containers
These murals are undoubtedly impressive spectacles
and the filmmakers make full use of their widescreen canvas to convey their immensity
Whether they constitute serious art in their own right is another question
one that this good-natured film is not eager to ask
Faces Places may at times verge on the cutesy
relying heavily on its likable personalities and the novelty of seeing a grande dame of world cinema snapping selfies and trading jokes with a hipster street artist
Those hoping for a critical examination of the world of graffiti and street art should look elsewhere; they could do worse than Banksy’s 2010 film Exit Through the Gift Shop
which offers a self-aware look at how ostensibly “transgressive” art can so easily be copied and commodified
However one feels about the merits of JR’s art
Varda’s presence give this material a certain gravitas that it would otherwise lack
Varda’s mortality casts a shadow over the film’s surface cheeriness
rendering the project a swan song for a filmmaker bidding farewell to the faces and places that have shaped her own career
Varda and JR stop at the grave of Henri-Cartier Bresson
where Varda reminisces about the great photographer’s influence on her early career
She also revisits pictures she had taken in the 1950s of Guy Bourdin
another French master and former Varda collaborator
Varda selects an old black-and-white photograph of Bourdin for JR to plaster on an old stone bunker on a Normandy beach
she discovers that the waves have already washed the image off the stone—an accidental reminder from nature of the transience of art
Perhaps the film’s most touching gesture comes near the end
Varda repeatedly references her failing vision
and at one point we see her receive eye surgery
JR sits Varda down in his studio for a close-up photo shoot focusing on her eyes
The purpose becomes clear soon enough when we see that JR has blown up those images to imprint them on a cargo train — her eyes staring out from the surface of one cargo car
One of the onlookers at the station is bemused by the whole thing (“Why put toes on trains?”)
but the sight provides one of the film’s loveliest images
“This train will go places you’ve never been,” JR tells Varda
tired eyes and wrinkled feet recede into the distance
There is one more train journey to be made before the film is over: to Rolle
where Varda and JR have arranged a rendezvous with Jean-Luc Godard
one of the last living filmmakers who made his name during the French New Wave
And if Varda is that movement’s lovable grandmother
Godard is its aloof elder statesman: a brilliant and innovative artist
but also a famously prickly and mercurial presence
a semi-recluse who eschews publicity even while continuing to release films well into his 80s
As Varda chats with JR on the train en route to see Godard
fondly recalling their work together while regretting that they have fallen out of touch
She also admits of both his virtues and eccentricities: “He is unpredictable…he is a solitary philosopher,” she tells JR
as if pre-emptively apologizing in the case that Godard does not show up
It is clear that Varda has a great deal emotionally invested in this encounter
perhaps the last chance to see an old friend and to introduce him to a new one
The film itself is rife with references to Godard
Varda compares the 1960s-era Godard to JR today
she shows the younger artist a clip of one of her earliest short films featuring Godard
and she re-creates a famous scene from his Band of Outsiders
in which a trio of youngsters make a mad dash through the halls of the Louvre
it is JR pushing the sprightly Varda on a wheelchair through the museum.)
For all Varda’s obvious admiration for Godard and her eagerness to re-connect
they find the doors locked and no one at home
referencing days of old when Godard used to dine with Varda and her late husband
seeing Godard’s no-show as an insulting rebuke and his note as a deliberate attempt to inflict emotional pain
a sense that Godard is mocking Varda and denying her entry to his esteemed company
cursing Godard like an estranged sibling (“I still like you
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The iconic style excites as much now as it did in its heyday 100 years ago. Rachel Ifans takes a road trip back in time
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Having been bombed heavily during the First World War
le nord is a region that really embraced the urge to rebuild and be reborn during the subsequent annees folles (the “mad years”
Today, Art Deco still evokes the glamour and optimism of the 1920s
sandwiched between two catastrophic wars – a time when
You’ve a weak spot for jaw-droppingly beautiful buildings with a socialist heart that have been renovated into art galleries
La Piscine is in Roubaix
an hour and a half’s drive south of Calais
it was built to improve hygiene and health as workers flooded in to fill the textile factories that sprang up here in the 1920s
As employees’ houses didn’t have bathrooms
factory bosses would buy tickets for them to swim or bathe here regularly
The architecture was inspired by a monastery: the bathrooms are the monks’ cells; the garden is the cloister (in red brick rather than marble
so it didn’t intimidate the poor); and the pool is the chapel
I’m not exaggerating when I say the light in the pool area is divine – the stained-glass windows at either end are heavenly
glazed tiles and pool mosaics are perfectly proportioned
Perfect for those who succumb easily to death-by-tour-guide
this is an Art Deco pool where you can swim
dive and admire the architecture all in one go
You’ll find La Piscine Roger Salengro just outside a sleepy northern town
you feel as though you’re on the deck of an ocean liner in the 1920s
surrounded by neat lines of changing-cubicles and smart towers
The gleaming painted concrete and the navy painted rails zing against the light blue sky and watery ripples; for swimmers
It may not be bang-on Art Deco, but Villa Cavrois is a Modernist masterpiece that was built at the same time as nearby gems from that period
it was constructed around 1932 as a private house
occupied as a barracks during the Second World War
when the French government bought it and renovated it
or €15.50 (£13) for a joint ticket that also allows entry to La Piscine Roubaix
Stop by to view its gloriously designed exterior and interior
you won’t believe how sophisticated it is – at 90 years old
it has a functionality that we still aspire to in our mod-con maisons
All wires are hidden (swoon) and the house-wide speaker system is like an interwar Alexa
There’s a walk-in shower with side jets (from the 1930s)
While the seaside resort of Le Touquet Paris-Plage was founded by a Parisian, it was a Brit called Whitley who gave this corner of northern France the identity it has today
John Robinson Whitley bought a stretch of land here in 1902
golf and horse racing as part of his vision of a sporting paradise
But it was when he opened the town’s first casino that he really played the ace in his pack
Casinos didn’t exist in Britain until the end of the Second World War
and the lure of gambling proved irresistible to the smart set across the Channel
Le Westminster is the only big hotel to remain from Le Touquet’s Roaring Twenties heyday
Now part of the Barriere chain of luxury hotels and casinos
it’s recently had a hefty interior facelift
with plush carpets in a shattered-glass design
high-shine lacquered wardrobes in teal and burnt orange
complete with Art Deco capitals inset in the concrete facade
blue and cream shiny tiles and intricate ironwork
Originally a casino, the Palais de Congres is a stunner
with a whiter-than-white mezzanine ballroom
gambling rooms and bars – although it’s used more for business conferences these days than baccarat
It was the place to be seen back in the day
and people would parade almost anything outside the front
and even the odd plane that had landed on the beach at low tide and been dragged up to town
take a stroll along the Avenue de Golf to see an incredible collection of houses
It’s where the English used to buy plots among the pine trees on which to build big villas and hold garden parties
In the glory years, Le Touquet also had a huge open-air pool on the beach. The tiered seating accommodated 2,500, with an endless programme of diving competitions and fashion shows. They say Edith Piaf learned to swim in the pool – and she didn’t regret it – but all that remains now is the diving-board tower, now part of the Aqualud aqua park (currently closed for renovations)
Bethune fits well for a lunch after your dip in the Bruay pool. Pick up a walking-trail leaflet from the tourist office for a feast of rounded windows
Don’t miss the main square with its bonkers mix of Art Deco and Regionalist architecture
Lille boasts a Unesco World Heritage-listed Art Deco belfry
as well as the facade of the old oyster restaurant
and the interior of the iconic Patisserie Meert
Visit the stunning Vimi war memorial in Givenchy-en-Gohelle
double-towered structure that lists the names of more than 11,000 Canadian soldiers killed on the western front there
Lens railway station is shaped like a train – and once you’ve seen it
you’ll wonder why every station in the world isn’t
The Eccentric Quarter in Dunkirk is a final treat before you head to Calais for the Eurotunnel
which were designed by Modernist architect Francois Reynaert
and seem to vie with each other for eccentricity and quirk
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La Piscine Roger Salengro in Bruay-La-Buissiere
Rachel Ifans takes a road trip back in time
Summer starts strong for Transdev: the company will operate France's first hydrogen electric bus line
which will connect Auchel to Buay-la-Buissière (Pas-de-Calais)
the Group has converted the try in Dublin winning the tramway operation and maintenance contract for 6 years
Transdev and the Artois Gohelle transport union officially inaugurated the hydrogen station and presented the Businova electric hydrogen bus on 21 June
Transdev will operate the first electric bus line powered on hydrogen in France as a commercial service
with 6 buses on the high-level service bus line between Auchel and Bruay-la-Buissière
This 13.4 km line will save 530 tons of CO2 per year
The transport industry accounts for around 22% of global energy-related CO2 emissions: transitioning to zero-emission (ZE) mobility solutions is a major priority for Transdev and the transport sector
Fuel-cells are an onboard means of producing the electricity required to power an electric motor
produces the necessary electricity for traction
The only emissions produced are water and steam
zero CO2 and zero motor noise for over 300 km of autonomy
Transdev won the agreement to operate and maintain the Dublin tramway for 6 years
Transdev Dublin Light Rail Limited has already operated this network since 2004 and has successfully renewed its agreement over the years
The network is comprised of 2 lines serving the Irish capital
The red East to West line (The Point-Connolly/Tallaght-Saggart) spans 20 km with 32 stops
The green North to South line (Broombridge/Brides Glen) is comprised of 35 stops spread out over 22 km
110,000 passengers are transported on this network everyday (42 million trips in 2018)
This strengthens Transdev’s position as world leader
operating 23 tramway systems in 8 countries
It follows the €330mn contract for phase 1 of the Parramatta tramway (Sydney
Australia) that Transdev won in January 2019
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What if we told you that a great second-hand boutique has just opened 2h30 from Paris
Welcome to the low-cost shopping paradise. At Ding Fring, you can treat yourself without breaking your piggy bank. This second-hand boutique in Hauts-de-France is the second largest in the country. And good news, it’s located 2 h 30 from Paris. You’re likely to do some good business
Located in Bruay-la-Buissière in the Hauts-de-France region
the 700 m² store is the Ding Fring chain’s second-largest
and the region’s largest second-hand store
Opened on August 24,clothing prices here are very
the basket is divided by four compared with other chains
With nearly 10 tons of clothing spread across the various departments
there really is something for everyone and every taste
So you’re sure to find what you’re looking for
When you buy second-hand
you’re not just making an economic gesture
It’s also a great action to reduce waste and pollution by choosing to give a garment a second life
Ding Fring’s main mission is to collect and revalue textiles
The store also offers an employment opportunity for people on integration schemes
the company has sorted over 12,984 tons of textiles thanks to its 80 boutiques nestled just about everywhere in France
the Bruay-la-Buissière store will be your new favorite HQ for finding nuggets
📍295 rue Georges-Charpack 62700 Bruay-la-Buissière