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this typical Southwestern dish is also an institution in the pink city
Here are the restaurants in Toulouse where you can eat cassoulet
For a good cassoulet recipe you’ll need (among other things): white beans from the Lauragais region
the large earthenware vessel in which it’s usually served
But some chefs have that “je-ne-sais-quoi”
the secret ingredient that makes it irresistible
It’s also a convivial dish that’s great to eat with friends away from home
That’s why we’ve put together a list of the best places to eat cassoulet in Toulouse
It’s no coincidence that Restaurant Émile tops the list
The comments are unanimous: “definitely the best cassoulet I’ve ever eaten”
“a cassoulet worthy of the name”
Place Saint Georges – 31000 Toulouse
Les Copains d’Abord is all about authenticity, with a cassoulet cooked in the purest Toulousan tradition, in other words with duck confit, just like in the old days. And at Les Copains d’Abord
You’ll also go for the elegant bistro-style decor of the rooms
Rue du Pont Guilhemery – 31000 Toulouse
La maison Louchebem is a bit of a haven for carnivores
In a setting with a 100% Toulouse atmosphere
you can enjoy a completely immersive experience
For an authentic cassoulet, head for Le Cassoularium at Les Halles de la Cartoucherie
This cassoulet bar offers traditional recipes
With organic ingredients from the farm “Le Hameau de Marie-Antoinette”
this friendly establishment is ideal for a gourmet break
Don’t miss this not-to-be-missed address for regional Toulouse cuisine
place de la Charte des Libertés Communales – 31300 Toulouse
📍3, Rue Genty-Magre – 31000 Toulouse
a slow-cooked union of beans and meat so rich and lipid laced that a couple of bites will inoculate eaters against all but the fiercest of polar vortices
which is not to say that the Gascony region
Beans are the main ingredient—seventy per cent of the dish
according to the official 1966 ruling by the États Géneraux de la Gastronomie Française—but should they be haricots or favas
natives of Carcassonne throw partridge and mutton into the pot
while the “Larousse Gastronomique” claims that mutton is “a sacrilege” in Castelnaudary
where legend holds that cassoulet was invented by enterprising townsfolk under siege during the Hundred Years’ War
they add Toulouse sausage and break the crust of breadcrumbs—the true mark of a successful cassoulet—seven times during cooking
the author of the original “Larousse Gastronomique,” from the nineteen thirties
and a mutton advocate (he was born in Carcassone)
brokered an uneasy truce between the picky cities by proposing that cassoulet be thought of as “the God of Occitan cuisine,” with Castelnaudary’s cassoulet as the Father
you can hear “Hymn to Cassoulet,” which begins with actual fanfare and is written in earthy prose in the Occitan language
we salute you / We love you like two eyes,” the Confrérie sings
“We will always find a place for you in our stomachs.”
a brew pub down a flight of stairs on East Seventh Street
and one of New York’s most enthusiastic cassoulet champions
“I look at the old Time Life cookbooks from the sixties
New England baked beans,’ ” he said on a recent Sunday
who greeted hungry cassoulet-seekers with a kiss on the cheek
cassoulet was given a lucky boost when a sound engineer from a French comedy show squeezed into news broadcasts in Times Square and unfurled a banner scrawled with the word “CASSOULET.” (On ABC
“I want to know who ‘cassoulet’ is.”) “Within the next hour
a million peopled Googled ‘What is cassoulet?’ ” Carbone said
may be in the works.) Someone from Mighty Quinn’s Barbecue
had dropped off a menu item called Burnt End Baked Beans
lest any undercover members of the Grande Confrérie start asking questions
and a veteran of Le Cirque and the River Café
was taking a minute to relax in the kitchen
As the “culinary muse” of this year’s cook-off
Tomei had four cassoulets on display at the bar
including a Tuscan-inspired stew with a tomato broth and a vegetarian variation with mushrooms
had driven with his cassoulet—a classic rendition
where he works as a waiter at Occidental Grill
Clerget was born in Metz and grew up in Corsica; he was initiated into the dish by friends from Toulouse
“We were waiting for fall and winter every year,” he said
“As soon as the weather drops below seventy
you can buy a very passable version in a jar
the beans and meat suspended in congealed sauce and crowned with a white rim of fat
Cassoulet from a jar is satisfying in the way that a polaroid is satisfying: the idea comes across fast and easy
who quit a career in finance to train as a chef in Umbria and now runs a catering business
had spent most of the week setting off the smoke alarm in her East Village apartment as she made duck bacon
This was her second competition at Jimmy’s
“Tell us, what does cassoulet mean to you?” Carbone asked, as Clerget was presented with a Wusthof kitchen knife.
“Cassoulet means … uh, I don’t know,” Clerget said, stalling. He gathered his thoughts. “It means family, friendship, and have a good time, actually.”
Back at their station, the Clerget team kissed, and began to pack up the scant leftovers. They were meeting a friend for dinner before driving back to D.C. the next day. The Clergets were married last May, and, as the Kogans could tell you, their future is bright: the couple that cassoulets together stays together.
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2024 at 3:46 AM ESTBookmarkSaveLock This article is for subscribers only.European Commission President Ursula von der Leyen said Thursday that it’s time to address the growing divisions over agriculture as she tried to respond to burgeoning protests from farmers over green policies and subsidy cuts in a crucial election year for Europe
“We all have the same sense of urgency,” she said in a speech kicking off a strategic dialog with the agricultural sector
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Demonstrators block an exit of the A71 highway with tractors
by night during a farmers' protest against a number of issues affecting their sector
France - Protesting farmers blocked roads across France on Wednesday to press the government to ease its drive for lower consumer prices and loosen environmental regulations
Many farmers struggle financially and say their livelihoods are threatened as food retailers are increasing pressure to bring down prices after a period of high inflation
"There are too many regulations," Thomas Bonnet
the head of a youth farmers' union in southwestern France's Castelnaudary area
"We'd like to be able to work like in some of the neighbouring countries
Fearing a spillover from farmer unrest in Germany
Poland and Romania, President Emmanuel Macron's government has already withdrawn a contested draft farming law that would have helped more people become farmers
told France 2 TV he could not rule out that protests could disrupt the Paris region
The group will publish dozens of specific demands by the end of the day
Farming policy has long been a sensitive issue in France
the European Union's biggest agricultural producer
with thousands of independent producers of wine
Farmers have a track record of disruptive protests
Fearing a spillover from farmer unrest in Germany, Poland and Romania, President Emmanuel Macron's government has already withdrawn a contested draft farming law that would have helped more people become farmers
ALSO READ: French farmer lobby coerces govt, says protests to continue
Macron is also wary of farmers' growing support for the far-right ahead of the European Parliament elections in June
Farmers rest between tractors as they block the highway on Jan 24
The unrest is the first major challenge for new Prime Minister Gabriel Attal and also resonates across Europe
"The reality is that most of the farmers cannot make their living off the products they are producing," Thomas Waitz
farmer discontent over prices is particularly acute in the dairy sector
where producers say the government's anti-inflation push has undermined legislation known as EGALIM designed to safeguard farmgate prices
As the EU's Green Deal of environmental policies is rolled out
farmers' increased work and costs need to be reflected in product prices
He urged the 27-member EU to make sure imported goods also have to meet high environmental standards to avoid unfair competition
A small group of French farmers also protested near the headquarters of the European Parliament in Brussels
"The message is that we should stop being caught in the middle," said Philippe Thomas
a cereals farmer from a Meuse in eastern France
"They impose more and more draconian standards on us
but on the other hand our produce isn't protected."
READ MORE: France's Macron launches political reset with PM change
Dairy producers are currently in dispute with Lactalis
and talks with an arbitrator are due on Thursday
"If the EGALIM law is respected there will be much (far) fewer protests
This article was published more than 1 year ago
whose origins stretch back centuries to 1355 when Castelnaudary was under siege by the English
and a target of controversy with some over less traditional versions.Supplied
When chef Romain Brard won the 2023 Toulouse Cassoulet World Championship
previous winners warned his life was about to change
Brard normally served 10 to 12 bowls of cassoulet a week at Le Genty Magre
steps from the majestic Capitole in central Toulouse
the 43-year-old chef’s phone rang off the hook
carried heavy earthenware dishes laden with beans
fine-grained Toulouse sausages and duck legs to tables
he dreamed of cooking anything but this classic dish of Southern France
who worked under superstar chef Daniel Boulud in New York
said the hearty dish still makes up 75 per cent of orders on a Saturday night when his 30-seat restaurant is packed with visitors from across France and around the world
Beloved for centuries as simple farmhouse fare
cassoulet has become a major culinary tourist draw along the Canal du Midi from Toulouse to medieval Carcassonne
But nobody does it bigger or better than the town of Castelnaudary
You can’t walk its weathered streets without seeing the dish advertised on billboards
Priscilla Picardat at their restaurant Le Genty Magre.Romain Brard/Supplied
At the heart of this wildly successful marketing campaign is a swashbuckling origin story
dating back to 1355 when Castelnaudary was under siege by the English
the inhabitants threw everything they had – beans
sausages and lashings of fat – into a deep
a glazed earthenware dish flared at the top
Though historians note that beans didn’t actually arrive from the Americas until the 1500s
whatever ingredients simmered in that slow-cooked stew apparently gave local soldiers enough energy to drive their invaders all the way to the English Channel
Dressed in sweeping gold and chestnut robes and flat cassole-shaped hats
members of La Grande Confrerie du Cassoulet paraded proudly through the streets of Castelnaudary during the five-day Fête du Cassoulet in August
where about 40,000 cassoulets were consumed and sold
companies that prepare and preserve cassoulet
(In 2020 it received a coveted Indication of Geographic Protection
which marks a product as having a specific geographical origin.)
grand chambellan (“Call me secretary”) of the Castelnaudary chapter
says the area produces 26,000 tonnes of cassoulet a year
and notes that local hunters still consume the quintessential slow food for breakfast
Maison Escudier's terrine of cassoulet
Cassoulet has become a major culinary tourist draw along the Canal du Midi from Toulouse to medieval Carcassonne
but nobody does it bigger or better than the town of CastelnaudarySupplied
Koehl hands me a copy of the confrerie’s official cassoulet recipe in French
When I confess that I use pricey French flageolet beans at home and top my cassoulet with breadcrumbs
“Parisians add breadcrumbs,” Koehl muttered
is one of the indicators of an authentic cassoulet
It should form naturally as the fat-laden dish simmers for hours in the oven
“Use the best ingredients and keep it simple.”
While he disparaged the Toulouse competition as “show business,” Brard dismisses the confrerie’s rigid rules
saying he’ll continue to make his broth with pig’s ears and snouts and gently flavour his winning recipe with rosemary and thyme
fondly recalls weekly gatherings with family to share in her grandmother’s cassoulet
She’s proud to continue that tradition as manager of century-old Maison Escudier
Castelnaudary’s largest manufacturer of cassoulet sold fresh and in jars
“People are crazy about cassoulet and it’s getting more popular,” she says
is proud to continue that tradition as manager of century-old Maison Escudier
Castelnaudary’s largest manufacturer of cassoulet sold fresh and in jars.The Globe and Mail
At a gleaming new factory and boutique on the edge of town
Semat says Escudier prepares 4,000 to 7,500 cassoulet a week
cooked sous-vide and vacuum-packed for modern families who have neither the time nor interest to prepare a two-day casserole from scratch
that local potters can’t keep up with the demand for earthenware cassoles
Semat says avian flu is decimating French flocks
sending prices sky high and threatening the supply of duck legs
some restaurants are passing off her cassoulet as homemade
while others are substituting a manchon (wing) for the more expensive and flavourful leg
The supply of precious lingot beans is also dwindling as increasingly hot
dry summers push growers to choose less water-intensive crops
says he’s not concerned about his supply after securing a tonne (literally) of beans
Canned cassoulet from Maison Escudier.Philippe Benoist/Supplied
When my guy and I arrive at Chez David on a Saturday night in Castelnaudary
Punk rock pulses through chef David Campigotto’s small
A ceramic chicken and a vase of plastic flowers sit in the stone niche above our heads
Campigotto’s menu offers cassoulet de Castelnaudary at €30 ($44) a person
along with an eclectic range of items such as cheese flambéed with Armagnac and tuna sashimi
The chef greets each table before returning to the kitchen
Our server arrives with a piping-hot earthenware dish for two filled to the brim with meat and beans beneath a dark brown
While dividing the meat evenly between our plates
The dish is cooked six hours until the famous beans
become creamy; some caramelize on top as part of the crust
Chunks of pork on the bone and the dark red duck leg are meltingly tender
Chef chef David Campigotto's menu offers cassoulet de Castelnaudary at €30 ($44) a person.The Globe and Mail
a mound of beans steeped in broth remain in the still-hot cassole under a veil of fat
Campigotto has installed himself at the tiny bar at the back
While his family recipe has always been popular among locals
“These days the French come from other regions,” he says
“some to discover the dish while others are nostalgic for their grandmother’s cooking.”
chef Brard awaits more details about his prize: a spot competing at an international cassoulet competition in Japan
is preparing for his annual cassoulet event in Chicago
He says he’d be delighted to cook in Toronto
but he’s not convinced our ducks or pigs are fat enough to do his recipe justice
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The ceremony was attended by Prince Albert II
The Palace square hosted the Képis Blancs (white caps) ceremony for the 2nd Company of Volunteer Legionnaires of the 4th Foreign Regiment of Castelnaudary
The symbolic event officially marks the volunteers’ enlistment in the Foreign Legion
when they were still civilians 30 days ago,” commented General Cyrille Youchtchenko
The Foreign Legion is an integral part of the French army
it represents 12% of the operational ground forces (9,500 legionnaires)
The volunteers may be deployed anywhere France requires
The ceremony concluded at the Monte-Carlo Bay – © Axel Bastello / Prince’s Palace
significant places to ensure the Képis Blancs ceremony is etched forever in the minds of the legionnaires
“There is an ancestral bond between Monaco and the Foreign Legion
He went on to become a Major General and was enrolled in the 1st Foreign Regiment,” said General Cyrille Youchtchenko
Prince Albert II opens up in an exclusive interview with Paris Match
a rock on which France has been able to lean on for nearly 200 years now,” added Colonel Jean-Dominique Montull
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the Foreign Legion Museum in Aubagne (southern France) organizes a temporary exposition called “Legionnaires”
The exposition will show photos of Caroline Thirion
dedicated to the legionnaires of the French Foreign Legion
The exposition is free and opens to the public every day between 9.00 AM (09:00) and 05.00 PM (17:00). The Museum is situated within the 1st Foreign Regiment (1er RE)
Caroline Thirion has already presented a similar exposition in 2017, called Fortes tetes – Apprentis légionnaires (Strong heads – Legionnaires apprentices), showing enlisted volunteers during their first month of basic training at a farm and becoming legionnaires thereafter. Then the photos were taken within the 4th Foreign Regiment (4e RE) at Castelnaudary and at Bel Air
one of the three farms training fresh volunteers
An official invitation to the 2019 exposition in Aubagne:
This article was published more than 2 years ago
where Diane Selkirk's French Canal journey ended.Diane Selkirk/Supplied
Almost every time we drove our 15 metre canal boat into one of the small oval locks on France’s Canal du Midi
It could be our audience was made up of engineering fans there to see the 350-year-old technology in action
that along with watching our boat go up or down like a big bathtub toy
the crowd was hoping for some new-boater drama
This is because despite a morning of training by Le Boat (a service that specializes in river and canal boat rentals) and their assurance that anyone can drive their canal boats
our group of seven friends and family didn’t immediately perfect entering the stonewalled chambers and riding the receding water four
Instead, there was some minor yelling and at least one solid, though well-fendered, bump. So, with stress levels rising, we pulled over to the side of the tree-lined canal. Dishing up the olives, cheese, bread and a local rosé we’d bought earlier in the morning from market venders in Castelnaudary
My husband drove us into the basin and our daughter and her girlfriend stepped onto the banks
Then our friends passed the bow and stern lines to the girls
we started the lock cycle – much the way vessels have for hundreds of years
What we needed was a safe way to gather and a destination that had something for everyone
When I suggested chartering a canal boat in southern France
intriguing history and limited indoor contact with anyone from outside our group
The first night's dinner on the canal boat’s upper deck.Diane Selkirk/Supplied
My daughter opted for the one closest to the door – so she wouldn’t have to cart her years’ worth of luggage down the narrow hallway
The rest of us filed in after her and claimed our own spaces
popping into the hallway a few minutes later when the groceries were delivered
a BBQ and an upper deck with panoramic views
we decided to cook aboard to take advantage of the region’s excellent fresh meat and produce (including a full range of white and green asparagus that ranged from linguine- to sausage-sized)
Cooking is something we always loved doing together but it seemed even more appealing after the past few years of isolation
it was time to untie our dock lines and join the leisurely procession of boats making their way along the canal
A few hours later (after that bumpy start) we were entering and exiting locks with ease
the loneliness of the past few years began to fade away
I asked the experts at Le Boat for an itinerary that would be relaxing – while giving us access to a mix of medieval villages
They’ve been in business for 50 years – and with self-drive canal boats in eight European countries as well as Canada – I thought they’d have a better sense of what was reasonable
Their suggestion was to take the boat from Castelnaudary to Trèbes
a distance of just more than 50 kilometres
At first this seemed like an underambitious plan
But when we only managed to travel 15 kilometres on our first day
a light breeze blew across farm fields that stretched from the waterway toward a distant village
where a stone steeple rose up through the trees
the occasional car and the thrum of our own engine
the scene could have been from any moment in the canal’s rich history
And when we tied up the boat to follow an old foot path into the circular village of Bram
The good, the great and the meh of hotel loyalty reward programs
As some hunted for perfect olives (and the best wine to accompany them)
the rest of us dove into the region’s history (and more than a few old buildings) and learned this section of the canal has archeological history that dates back to the second century BC
when it was the crossroads of two Roman roads
While on the search for a corkscrew in the village of Villesèquelande (ours broke from what we assume was excessive use)
we encountered a medieval enthusiast named Gilles Alessandri who charmed us into changing our next day’s plans so we could visit his private museum
Our guided tour of Musée de la Chevalerie immersed us in tales of battles
and reinforced the value of being on our own schedule – one we could shift on a whim
Val and Frank keep an eye out for the next lock.Diane Selkirk/Supplied
By the time we reached the busy port of Carcassonne and spent the day exploring the walled city’s castle and keep
our unhurried pace had offered up opportunities for late night talks and early morning walks
as well as moments of solitude to watch the landscape go by
Requiring fewer skills than a sailing charter and offering greater privacy and flexibility than a river cruise
we started to talk about future canal trips – ones with wine
Almost too soon we reached our last lock on our route
Even though we no longer needed everyone’s help
we were all on deck as we drove into the basin
We passed the lines and then the heavy metal gates slowly closed and the sounds of turbulent water filled the air
which did not review or approve this article
Fly into Paris and take the TGV train to Carcassonne
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and nothing goes better with cassoulet than a substantial Languedoc red
Paris – While fielding advanced military technology is crucial, the French Army has seen the high cost of equipment acquisition and ownership erode the training budget of the land force, according to Army Gen. Charles Beaudouin, head of the technology department for the service.
"Technological superiority is a major element for the services," but spending on equipment has led to fewer trained soldiers, which has operational consequences, he said June 9 at an industry conference here sponsored by the think tank Fondation pour la Recherche Stratégique.
Equipment such as the Airbus Helicopter NH90 transport helicopter -- which requires 22 hours of maintenance hours for one flight hour -- Scalp cruise missiles, and MBDA MMP medium-range missiles are costly, he said. Platforms are "extremely expensive," he added.
"Availability is very important for all our clients, particularly France," said Guillaume Steuer, head of Airbus Helicopter external communications. The company last year opened the Military Support Center France at Marignane to boost service for the French forces.
A planned information and communication system developed under the Scorpion program (SICS) will be "extremely complicated," and there is no guarantee the network will be fully interoperable, Beaudouin said. Sometimes it is good to "put on the brakes" to avoid an excess of technology, and it is important to reduce risk in the equipment, he added.
Direction Générale de l'Armement seeks to support the defense industrial and technology base and strike an optimum balance between military needs and financial capability, Vincent Imbert, deputy chief executive of the procurement office, said in closing remarks.
SICS is an Atos battle management system to be installed in the planned Jaguar multirole troop transport and Griffon combat vehicle. Data will be carried over the Thales Contact software-defined radio network, which will replace five radio networks and link a brigade commander to troops on the ground.
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and tried in vain to hide my disappointment at the missing dish
the caviar was fabulous and the ham was on a par with the renowned Spanish pata negra
But the creamy and velvety-textured Tarbais beans made me long for cassoulet
but also the signature dish of the French southwest
Dubbed “the god” of southern French cuisine by none other than chef
And even the choice of beans is up for debate
But the version of cassoulet that made this dish world famous is not simply a bean stew
but a lush ragout of braised beans enriched primarily with duck or goose confit
Mutton is common in more northern recipes and the inclusion of gizzards and pork skin points to cassoulet’s humble origins
The cities most famous for cassoulet are Toulouse
and a village by the name of Castelnaudary
each location lays claim to the original recipe
though Castelnaudary is generally acknowledged as the birthplace of the dish
Named for the squat clay pot in which it is baked
cassoulet can now be found the world over on practically any ambitious bistro menu
Cassoulet may be ubiquitous in the bistros of North America
you’ll find more duck magret and côte de boeuf than cassoulet
And as the rules for cassoulets become looser
the once-small chance of coming across a lousy version has grown a little larger
beans are the key to a successful cassoulet
A 1966 decree drawn up by the États Généraux de la Gastronomie Française states that a cassoulet should be comprised of 30 per cent pork or other meat
holding their shape just until the moment they hit tongue and teeth
long braising in garlic-hued juices ensures their gentle earthiness will be well infused with their surrounding meats and fats
but the signature dish of the French southwest
though I do recall a chef telling me that he and his brother had a ritual of devouring plates of cassoulet in Toulouse each summer
A French friend used to receive care packages from his mother that contained a dozen cans of William Saurin cassoulet that he cracked open whenever he was homesick
Canned cassoulet is omnipresent and should not always be shunned
You can find authentic French cassoulet (the best hailing from Castelnaudary) with either pork
or goose confit for about $5 a can at many French gourmet shops
serve with a southwestern French wine and you’ve got yourself a terrific emergency dinner-party feast
Making cassoulet from scratch will take you a full day
And do not expect your first try to be a success
my dinner party guests couldn’t manage more than a few spoonfuls
(Be warned: a good cassoulet can wreak havoc on even the best digestive systems
so keep a stash of Pepto-Bismol on hand for the unavoidable goose-fat hangover the next day.) But if the canned version is too gauche and the idea of patiently assembling a cassoulet makes you quiver
ordering one from your favourite local bistro
Cassoulet reheats very well and is actually better the day after—or several days after—it is made
In Quebec
the best cassoulet I have tasted comes not from Montreal or even Quebec City
where chef Daniel Pachon has become the reference for this beloved bean and meat stew
Pachon is the owner of the Auberge Villa Pachon Restaurant
which not only serves a sublime cassoulet but also ships his specialty throughout the province
He recalls his mother and grandmother’s versions containing all the scraps and leftovers in the refrigerator
Pachon’s cassoulet is made with pork shoulder
as well as homemade Toulouse-style sausage and duck confit
It was a nourishing dinner for peasants who worked the fields
yet it is wildly popular—but only when made with love
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may seem reminiscent of something you’d see at dive bars in Key West
until you take a sip of the local rosé while admiring a salt pond that’s the very same shade of pink as the wine you’re drinking
A fishing boat outside of La Cambuse du SaunierPhoto: Courtesy of of Lane NiesetThe South of France is laden with Michelin-starred chefs
but it’s this laid-back gastronomy and low-key lifestyle that’s defining Occitanie
Occitanie is a combination of the neighboring Languedoc-Roussillon and Midi-Pyrénées regions
This is considered to be the true South of France—and one of the country’s best-kept secrets
Less stuffy than Bordeaux and trodden with far fewer tourists than Provence
Occitanie offers the best of both of its wine-producing neighbors—and just so happens to be the birthplace of sparkling wine
that the first case of sparkling wine was documented
Even visitors like Thomas Jefferson loved Limoux’s bubbles
it was the only sparkling wine Jefferson stored in his personal cellar
The Canal du MidiPhoto: Courtesy of of Paul PalauHome to the largest wine region on the globe—and one of the oldest (Greeks first planted vineyards here in the fifth century B.C.)—Occitanie is among the few areas in the world where you can craft almost any type of wine
from Bordeaux-style reds to Provence-inspired rosés
“It’s hard to compare with other regions,” explains Narbonne native Marianne Fabre-Lanvin
a communications agency specializing in wine and travel
but you and I could easily buy a bottle at dinner
“The region’s wines sold for centimes per liter and very little time and effort was spent on quality grape growing
since the vines were taxed for maximum output.”
Carcassonne CastlePhoto: Courtesy of of Paul PalauOver the past 20 years
restaurateurs and winemakers have been working hard to reshape this reputation by sacrificing quantity for the sake of quality
producing world-class wine (with prices to match) and oysters so flavorful
they’re prized by top chefs from Paris to Dubai
From eight UNESCO World Heritage sites to secluded beach bistros that are so chic you’d think you were in St.-Tropez
here’s just a small taste of what the real South of France has to offer
Wander through the 70 stalls sampling everything from local olives and tapenades to tapas as authentic as you’d find across the border in nearby Spain
helmed by husband-and-wife duo René and Liz
The Canal du Midi is one of the must-see UNESCO World Heritage sites
but you shouldn’t leave without strolling the cobblestoned streets of Carcassonne
The medieval fortified city’s watchtowers and 12th-century château are so scenic
they’ve served as a backdrop for films like Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves (and are said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Sleeping Beauty)
Gerard Bertrand's Clos d'Ora WineryPhoto: Courtesy of of Gerard BertrandWith options from biking through the Pyrénées to canoeing under the Pont du Gard
it’s hard to decide how to spend your time between wine tastings
One light hike worth making is up Black Mountain
where you’ll find the remains of the four Lastours stone castles
a local Christian sect massacred during the 13th-century Crusades
Gerard Bertrand's Tautavel WineryPhoto: Courtesy of of Gerard BertrandWhere to Sleep and EatPost up at La Tour du Château
a 17th-century château with four bedrooms looking out at the Canal du Midi
The former Château Ventenac sits on land once owned by Julius Caesar that the current owners
discovered while passing through on a barge cruise
French country–chic feel with exposed beam ceilings and furniture sourced from Sunday vide-greniers
young chef Laurent Chabert not only tends to his own organic vegetable garden
he’s also on a mission to earn his first Michelin star with locally inspired dishes like mackerel cooked in L’Hospitalet’s white wine
Le St Barth'Photo: Courtesy of of Mario SinistajChabert’s wife, meanwhile, is behind the menu at Gruissan’s newly opened bohemian beach bar, Mamamouchi
just a 10-minute drive away along the Mediterranean Sea
This spot serves as a great place to start (or end) the night with magnums of rosé and meze on the wooden terrace overlooking the water
MamamouchiPhoto: Courtesy of MamamouchiFor a scene that wouldn’t be out of place in the other South of France, spend the day lingering over lunch and cocktails seaside at La Voile Rouge
a beach club sitting along Narbonne-Plage’s sandy white shores
a spa and series of suites sitting steps from their oyster farm
Not only will the shellfish serve as inspiration for a new cosmetics line
they’ll also be woven into a series of anti-aging and detoxifying treatments at the oyster-themed spa
Scenery Canal du Midi of River l'Herault
This canal was built by Pierre Paul Riquet under Louis XIV (1666)
The Canal du Midi is located in the south of France and straddles the departments of Herault
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