ShareSaveCommentLifestyleDiningFrom Cognac To Colorado, A Taste Of Hennessy Paradis In AspenByBenjamin Liong Setiawan
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
and all of life's indulgences.Follow AuthorMay 05
09:18am EDTShareSaveCommentThe Paradis Suite at St Regis Aspen Resort
Not only has their presidential suite been transformed into the Paradis suite
but guests can also book a special Paradis dinner experience
A partnership between Pastry Chef Cyril Baudin of Chateau de Bagnolet
the historic estate of the Hennessy family in Cognac
the four course dinner brings epicureans on a gastronomic journey from Cognac to Colorado
A sample menu includes Alaskan king crab and Kaluga caviar paired with Krug Grande Cuvée
dry aged duck breast and foie gras paired with Joseph Phelps Insignia
Wagyu striploin and white Alba truffle paired with Hennessy X.O
and a lavender infused baba paired with Hennessy Paradis
Dessert course from the Paradis dinner experience: lavender infused baba paired with Hennessy ..
Paradis is the pillar of the Hennessy Rare Editions collection
an eighth generation master blender for Hennessy
to learn more about the unique cognacs in the Rare Editions portfolio
Naturally his family has deep roots in the cognac industry with his parents being grape growers and distillers
About 20 years ago his uncle noticed his potential and gave him the opportunity to join Hennessy
For Renaud “it’s really about what you believe in
I believe in preparing the future and having values.”
Hennessy Paradis in the Paradise Suite at St Regis Aspen Resort
Benjamin Liong Setiawan: There are several expressions within the Hennessy Rare Editions collection
Renaud Fillioux de Gironde: The heart of the Rare Editions is Hennessy Paradis
It’s really the idea of being on the quest for perfect harmony
It’s this idea of how you can see that everything just fits together
Even after all these years—because we’re talking about a blend of 100 different eaux-de-vie that are at least 30 years old and some way more—it’s still fresh
iconic because you can have all of these characters with this wonderful freshness and harmony
We’re talking about the ingredients that are at least 50 years old and up to way more than that
It’s the history of our founder in a glass
So it’s really more about maturity and complexity
when Paradis is about harmony and a delicate character
It’s two different expressions of what an amazing stock of eaux-de-vie we have in Cognac
BLS: In addition to your core range of Rare Editions
RFdG: I’d say a limited edition or special creation is Paradis Unlimited
We put back the cognac for almost three extra years in the barrel to let all of the elements combine with it
how can you get the purest clarity and expression of Paradis
So we took it straight from the barrel directly to the bottle
It’s even more delicate and more elegant than Paradis
And you can craft the packaging and design it any way you want
the ultimate expression of our rare cognacs is La Dame Jeanne
you have to know every Hennessy eau-de-vie is aged in barrel
Each year I taste them to see their evolution and see if they’re ready to blend
we’re going to keep them for a longer period in the barrel
I remove it from the barrel and put it in the demijohn
it stops the evolution because if you leave it in the barrel
If we want to keep the essence just as it is
The idea of La Dame Jeanne is you want a cognac just for you
What I’m going to do is ask you to invite me for a couple of days to where you live
I’m going to do a tasting with you of several different eaux-de-vie
I’m going to understand even more what you like
10 liters of a pure expression of what I believe—with my knowledge about cognac making and blending—is something you will like
I’ve done that twice and I’ve got the third one on the way
It’s a pure expression of a perfect cognac just for one person
what can you tell me about the eaux-de-vie that make up the cognac
RFdG: I don’t talk too much about the figures because what matters is the quality of the selection
Because if you blend a thousand poor eaux-de-vie
What I learned during the first ten years of my career at Hennessy is learning how to taste
It’s every day at 11 o’clock tasting 60 to 70 samples to learn what is good for Hennessy
I worked ten years with my uncle and the team of tasters
you start to have a good understanding of the stock
is to follow the quality of our eaux-de-vie stock
We try to put in the best condition the ones that still have potential
blending is the very last step of the process
The quality of the selection makes a difference
BLS: Knowing that there are different eaux-de-vie in the blend
RFdG: If you look at the stock of Hennessy
the oldest eaux-de-vie we’ve got in stock is from 1800
a lot of the eaux-de-vie were there before I joined Hennessy
there’s a bit of emotion because I’m using some of the treasures of all the members of my family that were here before me
I have a special bond with them—the liquid
I’ve got something that you can touch physically
So even though I didn’t get a chance to meet him
it’s a tribute to their work—to what they’ve done
A look at some of the oldest eaux-de-vie in the cellars at Hennessy in Cognac
BLS: There’s a real passion and tangible history in what you do
The fact that a lot of the ingredients that I’m using in Paradis
Doing something good and trying to make it better
you’re preparing some eaux-de-vie that will be used for generations to come
Part of what I decide to buy will be used in 100 years
We also have the impact of the climate and everything
Maybe this 2024 vintage is not going to age for a long time
Aging is making a lot of decisions about how to get the best potential
We are all different and have different abilities
you probably went through schooling and jobs that helped you to be good at your craft
And I need a plumber because we need diversity
You just want to make sure that you take every eaux-de-vie and you put them at their best
Managing stock is understanding potential from the beginning and putting it in the best condition for them
Understanding how these eaux-de-vie are different from one another
Seeing what’s the ultimate they can be after two years or after 300 years
BLS: How do you know when you need to move some eaux-de-vie into a demijohn to stop the aging process versus giving others more time in the barrels
RFdG: So this is why tasting is so important
This is why all the time I spent learning how to taste is
I can see in these eaux-de-view that they can be even better tomorrow
Or if I found a point that I realize through tasting the character that will develop is just going to be linked to age and I don’t want that
So let’s use it now or move to demijohn to halt the aging
There’s no chemical analysis that you can do
It’s really about understanding and making decision
I’m going to do it for just half of the batch
There’s a metaphor for life found in that philosophy
This interview has been edited for length and clarity
Paradis dinner experience in the Paradis Suite at St
The Paradis Suite and the Paradis dinner experience at St
Regis Aspen Resort will be available for bookings from May 29th onward
and just in time for the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen
Find Benjamin Liong Setiawan on Instagram: @hungryeditor
Experts have warned that restrictions on imported alcohol could lead to empty shelves — though the move may offer a boost to domestic producers
The introduction of mandatory beer labelling under the Chestny ZNAK traceability system — first piloted in Tatarstan — is just one of several legislative changes reshaping Russia’s alcohol market in 2025
Major wholesalers are preparing for new restrictions on the import of alcohol
One of these measures concerns the permanent requirement to label imported alcoholic beverages with federal excise stamps on Russian territory
What else is going to change in the strong alcohol market in the near future
and how will it affect producers and consumers — Realnoe Vremya investigates
the labelling of alcoholic beverages with federal excise stamps will take place primarily within Russia
The practice of labelling alcohol produced outside the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU) at the point of origin for import into Russia will only be permitted until 28 February 2026
An exception will be made for alcohol produced in member states of the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU)
where excise stamps may continue to be applied at the point of production
this will come with restrictions: the Russian government will approve a list of authorised producers eligible to export alcohol with pre-applied stamps
excise stamps were affixed to imported products before they entered Russia
The shift to domestic labelling is aimed at reducing the risk that so-called “unfriendly” countries might ban the labelling of alcoholic goods on their own territory
“The experiment to shift the labelling of imported alcohol to Russian territory has been ongoing since 2021,” Oksana Fomichenko
the head of the regional office of the Federal Service for Alcohol and Tobacco Market Regulation (Rosalkogoltabakcontrol) for the Volga Federal District
Labelling imported alcohol within the Russian Federation will help reduce business costs
eliminate the influence of unfriendly countries on the import process
Rosalkogolregulirovanie has updated the application forms used to log data in the Unified State Automated Information System (EGAIS) regarding the import and movement of alcoholic products
The revised forms now include new fields related to the harvest year of grapes used in distillate production
as well as the location of product labelling within Russia
which include fields for specifying the grape harvest year used in distillate production
were introduced to account for the ageing period of products such as cognac,” Fomichenko explained
“This system is already in place for domestically produced goods.”
“Any form of restriction inevitably impacts competition,” said Realnoe Vremya’s expert Anna Galimova
former board member of Tatspirtprom and ex-chair of the Alcohol Association of Tatarstan
the decision appears logical and justified
But it is crucial that our domestic producers do not allow quality standards to slip as a result of these changes.”
Galimova also pointed out that Russian producers are not able to compete with foreign counterparts in all categories of alcoholic beverages
the new regulations are likely to limit consumer choice when it comes to strong spirits
“There are certain types of strong drinks that
with all due respect to domestic producers
we simply cannot cover technologically and formulary — whisky
Russian wine production has significantly improved in recent years
our producers still lack the capacity to fully meet market demand
Large producers like ‘Kuban-Vino’ and ‘Abray-Durso’ are doing well
but new large-scale production facilities won’t emerge quickly
Even excellent wines from Crimea are selling out fast
but often not making it to the Volga region at all
she also suggested that the introduction of restrictions on imported alcoholic beverages could benefit the development of Russian winemaking
this shift should encourage domestic producers to increase production capacities and open new facilities
She also commented on the introduction of mandatory beer labelling
noting that labelling inevitably restricts circulation and contributes to a “regional protectionism” that limits consumer choice
leading to the dominance of local products on store shelves
The changes also affect the timeline for the destruction and disposal of seized or confiscated illegally produced alcohol
which are stored in warehouses of authorised organisations for more than three years
This period has been extended until 1 September 2027
The deputy head of the State Alcohol Inspectorate of Tatarstan also noted that due to the moratorium on inspections
which was introduced during the COVID-19 pandemic and continued in the context of the ongoing military operation
the volumes of illegally produced alcohol seized in the republic have decreased significantly
around 200,000 liters of alcohol were seized annually
but now only 20,000–30,000 liters are being confiscated
we conducted around 3,500 inspections a year; now
We are mainly limited to preventive measures — lectures
When asked by Realnoe Vremya what violations the supervisory authority is currently detecting and where during rare inspections
alcohol is rarely seized from stationary points of sale where transactions are made legally
we encounter products produced in underground workshops or garages — unidentified spirits
alcohol-containing liquids intended for dual purposes
we work together with the Ministry of Internal Affairs
but because it has expired or the documentation is missing
this will have a positive effect on the fight against expired products
Although this is currently in a pilot phase
it will become mandatory for all stores starting 1 September.”
participants in the market will be prohibited from selling unlabelled beer in consumer packaging
beer producers will be required to include in their reports the details of the primary accounting documents related to production
as well as the ethyl alcohol content in the beverage
chairman of the Beer Association of Tatarstan
rejected Realnoe Vremya's suggestion that the new regulations could create problems for beer producers
Tatarstan has already been participating in a voluntary beer labelling pilot project for two years:
They’ve already purchased the equipment and ensured product traceability
with the introduction of mandatory labelling
there will be a small markup on beer and beer products
but on large producers who are purchasing labelling equipment
Breweries will also face some challenges because they’ve already bought equipment—printers
cameras—but all of that will pay off over time
these costs won’t be passed on to beer itself; the only cost added to the price is the cost of the label
This is the amount that consumers will pay.”
Akchurin also pointed out that beer is not an essential product like milk
and producers understand that a sharp price increase would lead many consumers to stop purchasing it
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FS77—79627 as from 18 December 2020 (earlier EL No
FS77—59331 as from 18 September 2014) issued by the Federal Service for Supervision of Communications
Information Technology and Mass Media (Roskomnadzor)
The content of Realnoe Vremya may be used only with the rights holders’ prior written consent
While the Cognac category is in turmoil at the moment
the excellence of the liquids put forward in our annual competition shows that when the market regains its footing
It’s been a tough period of late for Cognac. A tricky market in China saw exports drop by 10.6% in 2024, largely thanks to a decrease in demand for VSOP and XO Cognacs in the wake of the country’s anti-dumping investigation. According to the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC), in 2024 the overall value of Cognac shipments fell to €3 billion (US$3.1bn)
Despite the global challenges facing the category (see page 28 for an in-depth report)
this blind tasting has historically always been one of the strongest performers in The Global Spirits Masters Competitions
The tasting took place at Lowcountry Bar below Counter 71 in London
Two panels of judges gathered for the assessment
Forming the first panel were: Richard Legg
owner of Distilled Knowledge; Matt Chambers
co-founder of Whisky For Everyone; and Bryan Rodriguez-Curtis
The second group of judges comprised: Antony Moss, independent sustainability consultant; James Bunting, founder of New Make Communications; and Melita Kiely, editor-in-chief of The Spirits Business, and chair of The Global Spirits Masters Competitions
A quartet of Gold winners were celebrated: “fun
pleasant with some spiced fruit” Honor VS Cognac; “complex with dried wood and stone fruit” VS Cognac – Richard Delisle; “impressive
with good maturity for a VS” Courvoisier VS; and “fruity
sippable and good value for money” Martell VS
Three Silver awards completed the first flight
Ferrand Cognac received the first Master of the day for Ferrand 1840 Original Formula
The Cognac was described as “luscious and elegant
Chambers enthused: “The VS Cognacs were superb
with great flavour profiles and balance across the board – an excellent representation of the category.”
The high standard continued into the VS – Ultra-Premium (£51-plus) round
where Branson Phantom VS took a Master medal for its “soft
As the tasting moved to VSOP – Premium (£30-£50)
another Master was found: Ferrand 10 Générations
with an incredibly rounded feel and good weight”
Tasting notes from the group included “rich caramel and bold dried fruit
green apple and creamy Werther’s Original”
Also meeting the Gold standard was Honor VSOP Cognac
Moss commented: “The good ones really do deliver for the price.”
Rémy Martin VSOP shot to the top in the following flight
and a Silver went to Cognac De Luze’s Gentry
The VSOP – Single Cru heat resulted in a duo of Master medals for Martell
The Golds went to Martell Single Cru Petite Champagne and Martell Single Cru Borderies
The latter Cognac presented “burnt banana soufflé” on the nose
Up next came a VSOP – Single Estate Cognac
Cognac Frapin VSOP took home the top accolade after impressing with its “great balance and depth; dried fruit
As the age of the Cognacs increased again to XO
beginning with a selection costing between £56-£100 in the super-premium segment
the first of which went to XO Cognac Club Cigare Grande Champagne – Richard Delisle
“Very classic on the nose; elegant and refined,” noted Chambers
“A hint of cocoa powder and a pinch of warming baking spices on the palate.”
Master-winning XO Grande Champagne – Richard Delisle was praised for its “rich palate
This was said to be a great sipping Cognac
with “all the flavours working harmoniously together”
A quartet of Golds and one Silver made for a strong flight
“The big thing for me here was the role rancio plays here that it doesn’t really play in VSOP,” noted Moss
Bunting added about the Masters: “The clarity of flavours was so precise
The quality standard continued into the top price bracket of the XO category
and two Silver medals were enjoyed in this round
Larsen Cognac XO Reserve received its Master award for remaining “vibrant and fruity” despite the years of maturation
“The fruitiness really shines through – it’s a very elegant Cognac,” noted Kiely
Cognac François Voyer – Extra received a Master for its “velvety palate with expressive spice
Martell XO also made the Master cut with “plenty of orange on nose
plus caramel and Werther’s Original sweets
Rounding off the Masters was Martell Cordon Bleu
A small flight of XO – Single Cru Cognacs did not disappoint
lauded for being “rich and engaging with elegance and precision”
rich and elegant” Cognac Frapin – XO VIP collected a Gold medal here
Cognac Frapin added to its medal haul in the following flight
where it won a Gold medal for its Rudy Gobert XO expression
And yet another medal came Frapin’s way in the Vintage heat
this time a Master for Cognac Frapin – Millésime 1998 25 Years Old
perfumed and aromatic,” noted Rodriguez-Curtis
His panel also found flavours of “jasmine and tea-like notes playing with woody notes
alongside lychee and a touch of rose petal”
The last Master of the contest was awarded in the Hors d’Âge – Ultra-Premium flight
Hors d’Âge received the top award for being the Cognac that “has it all”
mouthcoating and just pure luxury,” Rodriguez-Curtis enthused
The closing two flights of the day ended the tasting with two enjoyable Gold medallists
one for “rich and approachable” Larsen Aqua Ignis in the No Age Statement – Premium flight
balanced” Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal in the No Age Statement – Super-Premium heat
Then the Master winners were poured again for the judges
who carefully considered each winner before the votes were counted
and it was Courvoisier XO that went to the top as this year’s Taste Master
While Cognac may be facing market challenges
there is no denying the unwavering quality this category continues to create
there will be a wealth of options for Cognac fans to rediscover
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Edible Monterey Bay
2025 – My first memory of cognac dates to a college dance
where a guy wearing a tweed jacket suddenly whisked me from the sidelines and began spinning me around the floor
Eschewing the dismal punch usually served at Harvard parties
he pulled a small silver flask from his inside pocket
And then we were off for another whirl until he found someone more interesting.
I’ve had the pleasure of tasting a few cognacs (which brings to mind the prized and much-missed Osocalis XO
with fond memories of Christmas Eve nightcaps of Armagnac with my dad.
I was lucky enough to take part in the Louis XIII Grand Champagne Cognac tasting
which derives from 150-year-old French barrels into which only the finest eau de vie spirit is selected to rest for up to 100 years.
sourced from the many wineries that are part of the mix
to produce one liter of the 70% alcohol eau-de-vie that eventually makes it into barrels
This is an incredibly painstaking and time-intensive process
It’s like reducing Big Ben to a wristwatch.
I could only imagine the angel’s share that is sacrificed in the process of creating this exquisite liquor
I wasn’t sure what to expect from the King.
We were beckoned outside for the ultimate backdrop
Pacific Ocean barely glinting at us through sullen sky
An ounce or so of history was poured into the most perfect crystal glasses
Each drop had rested in a barrel older than any other manmade element that surrounded us
The barrels had survived WWII and all its horrors
plus every other human drama that has followed
Drinking it around a firepit with the endless ocean to the west
The precious liquid rested in a LOUIS XIII decanter first created in 1874
when Paul-Émile Rémy Martin produced the first LOUIS XIII cognac
he found the historic flask on a battlefield in Jarnac
and had an intriguing shape with three distinctive fleurs-de-lys
We were encouraged to try this cognac with caviar and the finest jamon
it reflects the light it hasn’t seen in 100 years.
One of the attendees excitedly called his dad
Louis XIII will relieve $4k from your stash quicker than a rough day on stock market
“This is like buying art,” the Rémy rep told me
He does events like this for private collectors
parties and at high end events like Pebble
I asked him what he wishes people would not do when they were drinking cognac.
“The wide mouth sends all that alcohol right into your face.” This is why the smaller crystal glasses
There’s a whole world of merch surrounding this Louis XIII ritual
Gotta hand it to the King for starting a revered tradition that like time cannot be rushed: only underappreciated.
the events company that has been producing PBFW since its resurrection in 2024
showed up for the Louis XIII seminar with a broad
which ranged from mid 30s to well past middle age (me and a few others).
As the sun tried to throw us a few rays through the furrowed clouds
he told me they’d made a concerted effort to attract more consumers to this event and a more diverse set of consumers at that
and we have more chefs wanting to participate every year,” he said
while we savored the amber liquid from the crystal gasses around the firepit.
He hinted at perhaps doing more trade-oriented seminars and events
He observed that at least half the people who show up for Opening Night are in the hospitality industry
the crowd involved in putting on the event and attending it this year
for promoting diversity as a good thing.)
Mediterranean by the Sea was the name of the lunch I attended before the cognac seminar
My tablemates were from all over the country
including a lovely woman who lives in Chicago but grew up in Mumbai
She and her friend stumbled upon the lunch while staying with their husbands at Post Ranch Inn
an experience they were thoroughly enjoying.
Their husbands had booked tee times at Spyglass for Friday and the women needed something to do
so they ended up booking the PBFW lunch at Spanish Bay
We all universally loved the Pea Party salad
a spicy cilantro and jalapeño sauce.
The wine pairing of the 2023 Saracina Sauvignon Blanc with this dish was brilliant: it smells like spring
and romps across the palate like an electrical storm of grapefruit and pineapple juiciness that engages every part of your mouth
a Canadian who consistently makes amazing SB from mostly organic sites
This might have been the best wine of the meal
it’s an awesome value for a wine that got 95 points from Wine Enthusiast
was a Greek poached shrimp dish called Garides Kerkyraikes
which is why it’s always a good idea to grab a glass of Champagne at these kinds of events before the food starts coming out
even if you are indulging in cocktails during the hors d’oeuvres hour.
We had the great fortune of being poured Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Brut Champagne
which for the price (you can find it at Safeway for under $50)
The formula of 40% Pinot Meunier and 40% Pinot Noir
gives it the stuffing to produce one flavorful
fresh and delicious beverage that stands up well to food
We also loved the 2024 Sella & Mosca La Cala Vermentino
The dish of Za’atar baked fluke with olive oil crushed potatoes
Sometimes all you need is a generous squeeze of lemon or a touch of red pepper heat
The wine had weight and breadth and might have done better with the previous course.
There are few proteins that love spice as much as duck
The spice roasted duck breast from Stephanie Izard of Girl and the Goat in Chicago
and was served with fennel confit and lentils
it again needed a splash of apricot brandy
ginger liqueur or even a squeeze of yuzu to take it up a notch
The age-old adage of it needing some kind of acid to counter the fat is a good one
and was better suited to a baked rigatoni with boar sausage
a Sangiovese or a bright Sicilian red like Nerelo Mascalese. Again
that Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Brut showed itself nicely. Had they paired the duck with the Nicolas Feuillatte Réserve Exclusive Rosé, though
The meal ended with a saffron olive oil cake by Caroline Schiff
who decorated the plate with wine roasted grapes
candied almonds and whipped honey goat cheese
It was rich and divine with the 2022 Planeta Passito di Noto Moscato
Like Lucille Ball wearing multiple costumes
the permutations pf Moscato are always different
columnist and judge who contributes regularly to Edible Monterey Bay
Los Gatos Magazine and Wine Industry Network
Her passion is telling stories about the intriguing characters who inhabit the fascinating world of wine and food
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Even if you're a spirits connoisseur who purchases liquor bottles off the top shelf at your local booze-selling establishment
you've still probably barely scratched the surface of just how breathtakingly expensive some liquors can be
Forget liquors in the hundreds-of-dollars range — some bottles cost five
That's a lot of zeros for a cocktail ingredient
it isn't the liquor itself that adds such heft to the price tag (although
some high prices are based purely on the rarity and quality of the liquid in the bottles)
it's the combo of the booze and the extravagant design of bottles made from rare materials
that can make the price out-of-reach for us mere mortals
From a five-figure American bourbon to a seven-figure vodka fit for a Russian oligarch
these are some of the most expensive liquors you can drink
When you talk about expensive American liquors, a name that comes up time and time again is Pappy Van Winkle
While PBV bourbons can cost in the thousands
the Old Rip Van Winkle 25-Year Kentucky Bourbon often costs in the five-figure range
the 25-year bourbon regularly sells for anywhere from $25,000 to $45,000
Even more astonishing is a 2025 record-setting special edition Old Rip Van Winkle 'Van Winkle Selection' that shattered previous PBV sales prices by selling at auction for a whopping $125,000
It's proof that Old Rip Van Winkle continues to excite bourbon connoisseurs
you can find a few (but not many) bottles of Old Rip Van Winkle 25-Year bourbon for sale in prices in the mid-five figures
ranging anywhere from about $40K to about $60K
Some just want to own something that's out of reach for many
Others buy it to drink it and tout its exceptional smoothness
or 23-year bourbons for a mere four figures
and age of what's inside might be enough to justify the extravagant cost
This Cognac is so rare that it seldom comes up for sale
prices range anywhere from about $15K to over $50K
you can buy a mini (50-milliliter) decanter of the classic Louis XIII Cognac just to get a taste of what all the Louis XIII hype is about
More into Scotch than Cognac? Great news, then. If you have a spare $65K (usually more on secondary markets) to burn, then perhaps this 81-year-old single malt Scotch, The Macallan The Reach would be the perfect way to wet your whistle
The single malt was distilled way back in 1940 and then aged for 81 years before being bottled in 2021
Collectors were all over it in spite of the $125,000 original sale price
perhaps because only 288 bottles were ever made
it'll cost you anywhere from $100K to around $500K
While the liquid gold in the bottle — which is billed as the world's oldest Scotch whisky — is a huge contributor to the price
The mouth-blown glass decanter is cradled by three cast-bronze hands
created by Scottish sculptor Saskia Robinson
Even if you can bring yourself to sip on the whisky inside
the decanter and bronze will last a lifetime as an artistic testament to the most expensive bottle of Scotch you've probably ever tried
because the Guinness Book of World Records' world-record setter for the most expensive bottle of liquor ever sold (as of 2006
that is) is a tequila: the Ley .925 Diamante tequila
The 100% Blue Weber agave tequila is double-distilled and aged in French oak for a maximum of seven years
but it's the bottle that put it over the top and made it a record breaker
It sold in 2006 for $225K to a private collector
The current value is estimated at northward of $3.5 million
it's not going to make its way out of that private collection anytime soon
you can nab a glass repro of the Diamante bottle containing the same tequila for a somewhat much more affordable three figures
if you're looking to sip on a world-class tequila
The Dalmore Highland single-malt Scotch has a reputation for being a high-quality whisky
and none is as vaunted (or expensive) as the 62-year-old single malt
it missed out on being the world's oldest single malt Scotch by 19 years
but that didn't keep it from setting a record as the world's most expensive whisky at the time
selling for £25,877.50 (about $34,327.80) in 2002
with a bottle selling for $149,000 on the secondary market
It was one of 12 hand-signed 62-year-old bottles
while The Dalmore 62-year-old Scotch is probably really hard to come by
you can also try some of the brand's other high-quality Scotches
ranging from 10 to 50 years old and costing anything from double digit prices to the mid-five figures
Looking for a taste of The Dalmore goodness without the price tag
What happens when you combine a really good vodka with a decanter that's crafted by Lalique
although this one is in closer reach than some of the super-expensive Russian vodkas
a true bargain when it comes right down to it
Beluga released only 1,000 of these limited-edition decanters
which were crafted by the legendary French crystal maker Lalique
The decanters are mouth-blown and hand-crafted
and each is engraved with a serial number on the bottom
even if you drink the ultra-premium vodka inside the decanter
you'll still have a beautiful bottle to store one of Beluga's other
much more affordable (but still premium) vodkas
Those will set you back anywhere from about $50 up to a few hundred bucks
If you're going to drop $1.5 million on a bottle of rum
it might as well be part of a whole experience
That's the concept behind Dictador's M-City Golden Cities Series
the Colombian distiller started this bespoke
invite-only program that flew a select few to Colombia
where they were able to create their own rare blend of rum
most people would probably want more than a trip and a distilling experience
24-karat gold bottle that features a city map of their choice
The result is a truly one-of-a-kind rum in a one-of-a-kind bottle
Dictador makes a number of other high-quality rums that range anywhere from about $50 into the thousands
Mix a few of those together and wrap a bottle in gold foil
and you'll have saved a ton while still getting your own one-of-a-kind rum experience that doesn't require you to mortgage your house
Japan's whisky market is giving Scotland's a run for its money when it comes to single-malt whisky
and as the world starts to recognize just how good Japanese single malts can be
Not to be left out of the world's most expensive spirits is The Yamazaki Single Malt Japanese Whisky 55-Year
the whisky is a blend of single malts — one distilled in 1960 and aged in Mizunara casks
and the other distilled in 1964 and aged in white oak
and care taken in its production are what contribute to its high price
which ranges from around $400,000 to $700,000
If you're looking for something a little less expensive (but not by much) from the House of Suntory
the Hibiki 40-Year will only set you back mid-five figures
you can pick up a still excellent The Yamazaki 12-Year whisky for under $200
Russo-Baltique vodka made one of the world's most expensive vodkas at about $1.3 million
Just over 600 bottles were made with premium vodka housed in a gold and silver bottle (the real stuff
not just the colors) and partly enrobed in leather from a rally car from Monte Carlo
But it's one bottle that got a bunch of attention because it was stolen from the Danish bar where it was kept
It was discovered (unfortunately empty) a few days later at a construction site
The premium vodka was created by car manufacturer Russo-Baltique to celebrate its 100-year anniversary
While the original precious metal bottles aren't available except on secondary markets
reproductions are available in gold-colored glass for only about $12.50 USD
Surprise, surprise — the most expensive bottle of liquor ever sold is a limoncello. There are only two known bottles of D'Amalfi Limoncello Supreme
and their estimated worth is in the $44 million range
it's the stunning diamonds adorning the bottle that account for its off-the-charts price tag
There are three 13-carat diamonds around the bottle's neck
Combine that with the absolute rarity of this particular bottle of Italian liquor
and you have a record breaker with a price that's as pucker-inducing as the sweet citrus liqueur it contains
Nobody really knows since the owners of the bottles remain unnamed — one commissioned a single bottle
Rémy Cointreau has reported a sharp recovery in US Cognac sales for the first quarter
with trade tensions and leadership change looming
A glimmer of hope in Rémy Cointreau’s sales for the first three months of this year
It says US sales of Cognac “rebounded sharply” and its shares rose by almost 2% in Paris this morning
reflects a disastrous period in the same quarter last year and was in sharp contrast to the group’s fourth quarter fall in overall sales
compared with analysts’ predictions of a 17.9% decline
Cognac accounts for about 70% of overall sales
and it is also facing difficult times in China
the Rémy Martin brand has been hard hit by China’s import deposit scheme and the effective closing of the duty-free market
While Rémy Cointreau has stuck steadfastly to protecting its margins and refusing to apply heavy discounts in the US market (as opposed to LVMH’s Hennessy stable)
it says its action plan for the cheapest version of Rémy Martin Cognac
Last year the company launched a €50 million (US$57 million) cost saving programme to protect margins.
As a result of the latest figures, Rémy Cointreau has left unchanged its annual and longer-term guidance up to 2029-30. It expects to resume progress towards high single-digit sales growth from its next financial year onwards.
Despite the US sales improvement, Cognac could still be the victim of the trade war between Washington and Brussels. President Trump has threatened 50% tariffs, which have been stalled for 90 days.
That said, some analysts believe that even with the difficulties in its two largest markets, Rémy Cointreau may have reached the bottom of its decline over the past two years.
One said that these early signs of recovery “could have legs” if the consumer environment in the U.S. does not deteriorate further.
A further hurdle to be overcome is the replacement of CEO Eric Vallat, who has resigned and will leave the company in the summer.
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reduced the annual production limit for a third straight year to just half the levels of 2022
citing a "strongly deteriorated economic environment and an unprecedented drop in global consumption.""We're only at the beginning of the crisis," said Jerome Sourriseau
a local politician and president of the group of municipalities formed by the villages around Cognac.Unemployment is on the rise since cognac houses and suppliers stopped hiring short-term workers
employ roughly 70,000 people in the region.Some
winemakers too."We've already had customers tell us the same night that they need to review the orders they've already placed
reducing volumes by the amount of tariffs they will likely have to pay"
said general manager Jerome Schmitt."SPECIAL BOND"In the United States
cognac has a "special bond" with the Black community
Black American soldiers discovered the drink during World War II and brought it home
before cognac brands led by Hennessy started heavily advertising in the 1990s and 2000s.In 2012
rapper Jay-Z established the Cognac d'Usse brand in partnership with Bacardi
while Hennessy struck a sponsorship deal with the NBA basketball league in 2021.But even before trade tensions
largely due to aggressive price hikes in recent years affecting middle-class consumers
said Thomas Mesmin of Paris-based luxury consultancy MAD."Not only did Americans start to drink less cognac
but they also switched their consumption attitudes towards other spirits like tequila and whiskey."While most high-end cognacs are exported to Asia
business is dominated by less expensive bottles
and mass-selling brands like Hennessy so far failed to broaden their consumer base
Mesmin said."It's only a certain part of the population in just a few cities," he said.Industry president Morillon predicted cognac would lose market share in the U.S.
and producers would be unable to pass on the full cost of tariffs to consumers there."It's up to each house to decide
but we know today that in the current context
even if you just increase by 1 or 2 dollars
this can lead to disruption," he said.Fourth-generation grower Pascale Dupuy
said he would likely distill less this season
and sell more grapes to bulk buyers making cheap wine to limit his losses."One more problem added to the pile"
when asked about the trade tensions with the United States.Dupuy said major cognac brand Remy Martin has already cut its contracts with him by almost half
and he expects Hennessy will also buy considerably less
leading to a 40% decrease in his expected revenues this year
The companies did not respond to a request for comment.With his daughter showing no interesting in taking on the struggling business
Dupuy said he would likely be the last generation of cognac makers in his family."You start questioning if it's still worth it," he added.($1 = 0.9097 euros)Reporting by Tassilo Hummel
additional reporting by Sybille de la Hamaide; Editing by Daniel Flynn
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Tassilo is based in Paris and covers the luxury sector, its main players and trends. He previously wrote about French politics and business, EU institutions and NATO.
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You might be wondering what cognac, hip-hop and fame have in common. The answer, at least in a recent opinion by the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Federal Circuit, is certification trademarks. We have written in the past about certification marks and how they differ from trademarks
trademarks indicate the source of goods or services
a swoosh on sneakers indicates they originate with Nike
while certification marks indicate a product's compliance with a standard that may be related to geography (Idaho potatoes)
quality (Woolmark) or characteristics of production (union label)
Cognac is a grape brandy that comes from the Cognac region of France and conforms to standards enforced in part by the French government
it has long been recognized as a common-law certification mark
which indicates a combination of geographic origin
Only brandies that meet those standards are legally permitted to use the COGNAC mark
through the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau under 27 C.F.R
But what about using COGNAC for non-alcohol-related goods or services
depending on whether the certification mark is famous
a fundamental legal error by the Board was its requirement that the public recognition and renown of a certification mark must relate to its "certification status" or "function" as a certification mark
consumers recognized the goods as being certified rather than for other indicators such as geographic origin
the court held that a certification mark "need not be famous for all of its indications
and it need not be famous for its certification function." Instead
the Board was required to consider whether Cognac was "famous as an indicator of its geographic origin."
The court also disagreed with the Board's consideration of the evidence offered by the Opposers to establish the fame of the COGNAC mark
despite recognizing that "Cognac" was "a popular spirit in the United States
with impressive sales" and that "the record [was] replete with use of the term 'cognac' … in articles
including from some well-known publications," the Board rejected this evidence because it did not "provide sufficient support for an unequivocal conclusion" that the COGNAC mark was famous
the Board reasoned that the evidence was either based on the certified users' branded products' sales and advertisements (e.g.
HENESSEY and REMY MARTIN) or the use of COGNAC on the products or in advertisements and news articles was often inconspicuous compared to the product trademarks or used with a lowercase "c."
the court found that it was legal error for the Board to require "unequivocal" evidence that the sales were driven by the certification mark as opposed to any accompanying house or product marks
certification marks are only used on third-party products
they will often be used with a house brand or product trademark
They may also appear in an inconspicuous manner compared to such brands or trademarks; thus
or lack thereof," of a certification mark should not be determinative of fame
based on "context-specific evidence," whether some portion of the sales and advertising evidence should be attributed to the COGNAC mark
the court found that the very evidence relied on by the Board to show that COGNAC was not famous because of its inconspicuous use or placement appeared to show the opposite – the consistent and frequent use of COGNAC irrespective of or without the mention of a house brand or product mark
The court concluded that setting aside the legal errors related to the Board's fame analysis
these factual inconsistencies show that the conclusion that COGNAC was not famous was not supported by substantial evidence
Though it may be counterintuitive that an unregistered certification mark for a certain type of spirit may block the use by a hip-hop record label of a similar mark for music entertainment services
Companies should take care to evaluate the potential strength of any similar certification marks even those for wholly disparate goods or services
Failing to do so could result in a branding hangover much worse than diluting your finest Cognac
Because the Federal Circuit vacated and remanded the Board's decision dismissing the Opposers' opposition
it remains to be seen whether COGNAC will be the first unregistered certification mark found to be famous – and
how any such fame may impact the Board's likelihood of confusion analyses
the Bureau National Interprofessionel du Cognac has in the meantime applied to register COGNAC as a certification mark for "grape brandy distilled in the Cognac region of France in compliance with the laws of the French government." Apart from its connection to this case
the application is notable for a "first use anywhere" date of 1643
and a "first use in commerce" date of 1794
1 Bureau Nat'l Interprofessionnel Du Cognac & Institut Nat'l Des Appellations D'origine
this finding was the opposite of a prior 1998 Board decision that found that the COGNAC certification mark "would fall on the very strong end of the spectrum of fame for purposes of the likelihood of confusion analysis…" Institut Nat'l Des Appellations D'origine v
2 110 F.4th 1356
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Pete Rising in this year\u2019s Best of the Bay Awards
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The owners behind the upscale Bacchus Wine Bistro near Beach Drive, Christophe Guillot and Philippe Challeau, have debuted their newest dining destination in downtown St. Pete — Cognac
The Parisian-style bistro opened earlier this month at 201 2nd Avenue North
occupying the space formerly home to Dirty Shirley
which closed less than a year after opening in 2023
Cognac offers a menu inspired by traditional French cuisine
featuring dishes such as caviar and Croque Madame
along with a bar specializing in craft cocktails
“Cognac will be like walking into a bistro in Paris. People can enjoy traditional dishes such as steak frites, escargot, and different cognac selections,” Guillot said in a previous conversation with St. Pete Rising
who has been with Bacchus since its opening
leading the kitchen operations and menu creation
Cognac features indoor and outdoor seating with a coverd dining patio | cognac
Located next to the Sundial shopping and dining complex and less than two blocks from Bacchus
Cognac distinguishes itself with a full liquor bar and seating for up to 50 guests
Brunch and lunch services will launch at a later date
The majority of entrees range from $30 to $50
and desserts are available at a lower price point
Diners can indulge in refined French cuisine
beginning with small plates such as caviar—offering Pink Trout Roe ($45) or Hackleback ($90); Escargots de Bourgogne baked with parsley butter; Soupe de Poisson
and French crostini; shrimp cocktail; or grilled seafood options including sardines
Cognac’s bar features classic cocktails like the French 75 | cognac
Main courses include surf-and-turf selections
a prime 10-ounce sirloin with green peppercorn sauce; Escalope de Poulet Grillé
a grilled chicken breast with Dijon mustard; and Saumon en Papillote
the Le Pêcheur menu—meaning “the angler” or “the fisherman”—features Atlantic salmon
and béchamel sauce; and the La Croque Madame
which includes the same ingredients as the Monsieur with the addition of a sunny-side-up egg
such as the Cognac Romaine Salade à la Lyonnaise
The drink menu includes draft and bottled selections from local breweries
Signature cocktails include classics like the Espresso Martini
Cognac offers handcrafted mocktails such as a Sparkling Raspberry Rose
Cocktails and mocktails are priced between $10 and $14
Cognac is open Sunday through Thursday from 3 p.m
Sunday through Thursday and until midnight on Friday and Saturday
Be sure to follow Cognac on Instagram for the latest menu offerings
Want to be the first to know what’s coming soon to the Sunshine City
Sign up to receive the latest news straight to your inbox
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Martell cognac at a supermarket in Hangzhou
Cognac producers are being blocked from distributing the French brandy through duty-free channels in China
in an apparent escalation of the tariff battle between Beijing and the European Union
Enjoyed by French royalty and European nobility for centuries
it is still often seen as a symbol of wealth and status
to share with us their favorite cognacs and what makes the spirit special
Best Napoléon: François Voyer's Napoléon Cognac – See at Cognac Experts
Cognac is a style of French brandy distilled from fermented grapes
production must abide by a series of rules set by the French government known as the appellation d'origine contrôlée
and all of the grapes used for production are grown in specific regions known as Crus
Cognac must be distilled twice using copper pot stills
is required to be aged for a minimum of two years in barrels made of French oak
Cognacs are sorted by grades that tell the minimum length for which each cognac was aged:
Distilled entirely from grapes from the Borderies region
"It's incredibly easy to enjoy with those lovely distinctive floral notes that only eau-de-vies from Borderies can provide," says Marshall
This cognac is blended from barrels aged around 10 to 15 years
"It's a wonderful overall cognac," says Cyr
"The nose has hints of violet and the palate has notes of butterscotch and bananas foster."
you can't go wrong reaching for Ferrand's Selection des Anges
"Not an everyday cognac at this price point," says Marshall
and fitting for a special occasion."
"It's an absolutely gorgeous bottle," says Cyr
Aged for around 25-35 years and bottled at a slightly higher ABV than the standard 40%
It has an aroma reminiscent of candied walnut and roses with flavor notes of dark coffee
This premium expression from top cognac house Martell is fruity
and smooth — just what you would expect from a heavily aged
it's also the base spirit for a handful of classic cocktails
it's important that the spirit is bold enough to hold its own among the other ingredients
"It's intensely fragrant and relatively affordable," says Cyr.
The Camus VSOP's strong floral and fruity aroma
along with flavors of raisin and baking spice
makes it a perfect complement to any ingredients it may be mixed with
but still works well in cocktails," says Marshall
there's no more recognizable bottle than Hennessy VS. "It's a classic," says Cyr
Everyone knows it." The label states that this cognac is "Very Special," but that has nothing to do with its rarity — it actually shows that Hennessy is aged for a minimum of 2 years
Hennessy is a well-made and approachable cognac
and clove are bolstered by an aroma of almond and grape
VSOP stands for "Very Superior Old Pale," and there isn't much out there that's older or more superior than this cognac
"It's a very high-quality cognac from a very old producing house," says Cyr
the Frapin family has been producing cognac in France since 1270
"There is a backbone within the Frapin range which makes it perfect for those who prefer a leaner style of cognac," says Marshall
This Grande Champagne expression has a nose of gingerbread and hazelnut
the grade refers to the minimum age requirement for each eau-de-vie that goes into the bottle
Some producers choose to use more mature cognacs than necessary
the average age of each barrel is 14-20 years old instead of the minimum 6-year requirement
"[Francois Voyer is] another under-the-radar house worth seeking out
The aging process gives this bottle a deep
and smooth flavor of hazelnut and spice that's adorned with an aroma of roses
The House of Prunier is famous for the cellars in which they barrel-age their cognac
They've produced multiple award-winning cognacs
and this Extra Old expression is among their best. "They're doing something right," says Cyr.
It showcases a hint of vanilla and toffee on the nose
with a rich flavor profile of dark chocolate
Distilled from grapes of both Petit and Grande Champagne and aged to perfection
it's one of the most iconic premium cognacs for a reason — it's balanced
For the ones we were lucky enough to sample
and flavor of each cognac in its purest state.
Cocktails: After narrowing down our top picks
we took the cognacs we considered to be the best mixers and made two cocktails
We assessed each based on how well each cognac fit the broadly understood flavor profile of each drink
and how well the spirit worked with the other ingredients
Mark Littler is a whisky consultant covering all aspects of whiskyFollow AuthorApr 30
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#article-stream-0 .subhead3-embed .font-accent{font-family: Graphik,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;}Louis XIII is undeniably superb
New York’s Brandy Library has become the place to be after hours in the city
but you may be surprised to know that you won’t be able to get a pour of the world’s most prestigious Cognac
I spoke to Brandy Library’s founder Flavien Desoblin to find out more about his exclusive bar and discover why he’s banned Louis XIII Cognac from the shelves
In Lower Manhattan's Moore Street, Brandy Library has become the go to destination for those after a quieter spot to unwind and connect
It’s a carefully designed venue that glows with the ambient lighting from walls lined with around 1,500 bottles of spirit from across the world
This impressive collection has been curated by the library to offer an unrivaled opportunity to explore new and existing favourites
Over 1,500 bottles line the shelves at Brandy Library
offering everything from obscure Scotch and vintage Armagnac to underrated American bourbon gems
The group sizes are limited to six—although larger groups can request to book a private party or experience—and the ambience is very much reminiscent of a library
The hushed and respectful tone revered for a selection of spirits
although you can also get a glass of wine or beer if that’s your preference
You might expect brandy to be their most popular spirit
or a scotch thanks to its increasingly premium reputation
but Desoblin explains that bourbon has reestablished itself as the drink to be seen with
“The resurgence of Bourbon started as a necessity during the 2008/09 financial crisis,” Desoblin said over an email exchange with me
“Businessmen would come in but couldn't spend corporate money on the previous go-to Macallan 18
What started as an act of active patriotism eventually was loved for its defining qualities
going back to what the grandparents were drinking
the former stockbroker and financial criminal whose memories were recreated in the film The Wolf of Wall Street was a regular at Brandy Library
although Desoblin says they didn’t know who he was until after the movie
Despite its proximity to New York’s Financial District
Brandy Library isn’t solely focused on the corporate side
Desoblin explains his library setting is perfect for “dates who want to see what's really inside each other's mind
in a quiet and calm environment when you easily lose track of time.”
I felt it was a must to ask about the elephant in the room—or lack of it—the Louis XIII Cognac
Louis XIII is arguably the pinnacle of luxury cognacs
The price of a bottle starts around $3,000 to $4,000 depending on the edition and it’s the crown of Rémy Martin's portfolio
This exceptional brandy combines up to 1,200 different eaux-de-vie that are aged for decades—some reaching a century—and presented in a handcrafted crystal decanter
Despite its renowned quality and striking design
at the Brandy Library they have deliberately chosen not to stock Louis XIII
Louis XIII Cognac is nowhere to be found at Brandy Library
I find the interaction of luxury lifestyle and spirits fascinating
so I had to ask Desoblin what drove their decision
“There’s no argument that Louis XIII quality is superb
But I was tired of witnessing ice cubes thrown into it as it was consumed just for status
There are plenty of similarly exquisite Cognacs for a fraction of the price
Sometimes it is nice to have something you are familiar with
but equally if you have access to somewhere like Brandy Library with the selection and expert guidance it can be just as enjoyable to be steered toward something new
I asked Desoblin what he considered overlooked in their vast selection of spirits
His answer is as succinct as his selection is vast: “Heaven Hill bottled-in-bond 7 years bourbon and Glen Moray single malt scotch.”
Flavien Desoblin calls Heaven Hill Bottled-in-Bond 7 Years one of the bar’s hidden gems—a no-frills bourbon that proves great taste doesn’t need a big price tag
Heaven Hill Bottled-in-Bond 7 Years is a traditional Kentucky bourbon adhering to strict requirements—100 proof
aged at least four years and produced in a single distilling season
The 7-year expression represents the distillery's commitment to their production methods while delivering a robust
Glen Moray is a Speyside distillery that is often overlooked in favour of some of its more infamous neighbours
Established in 1897 Glen Moray creates whiskies that typically showcase the lighter
They are also a fraction of the price of the better known speyside single malts
which can often make people a bit more open minded about trying something new
If Kentucky bourbon or a fruity speyside scotch are the right choice for your palate the expert team at Brandy Library would be more than happy to offer a suggestion
Just make sure you book your table in advance for the full experience
Exports of Cognac fell by 10.6% in value last year due to a decline for VSOP and XO expressions in the wake of China’s anti-dumping investigation
Trade body the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) noted that the value of Cognac shipments fell to €3 billion (US$3.1bn) in 2024
the volume of Cognac exported rose slightly by 0.4% in 2024 to 166 million bottles
The BNIC mainly attributed the discrepancy between volume and value variation to a ‘significant’ rise in shipments of younger Cognacs (up by 13.7% across all countries)
while VSOP and XO declined by 8.6% and 26.4%
The BNIC said this was the result of China’s anti-dumping investigation targeting imports of Cognac from the EU. The investigation launched on 5 January 2024 and was due to last for one year. But last month, the investigation was extended until 5 April 2025
there was a mixed performance for Cognac exports in 2024
which includes China – Cognac’s largest market by value and the second biggest in volume – the category’s exports declined by 16% in 2024
Cognac shipments to the Far East plunged by 24.2% to €1.12bn (US$1.16bn) last year
The BNIC said this decrease was largely due to the ‘sluggish recovery of the Chinese economy’
with a ‘significant’ decline seen from October to December
Cognac exports to China plummeted by 23.8% in value and by 9.6% in volume last year
Exports to Europe dropped by 3.8% in volume with 31.6m bottles shipped
but value rose by 4.4% to reach €461m (US$478.5m)
The BNIC highlighted a major increase in the UK
which maintained its position as the fifth-largest export market with 7.8m bottles
North America performed better with a 15.3% increase in volume to 70.6m bottles
The continent’s volume gain was linked to the ‘positive trend of the American economy’ and stock reduction efforts made throughout the year
The BNIC also spotlighted South Africa as a growing market for Cognac
with a 26.7% increase in volume and a 24.1% rise in value last year
securing its position as the category’s fourth-biggest export market in 2024
China’s investigation into brandy exports has had a major impact on some of the world’s biggest Cognac brands
Rémy Cointreau’s Cognac sales between April and December 2024 plummeted by 19% after a ‘marked decline’ in China
Sales of Pernod Ricard’s Martell Cognac plunged by 25% during the last half of 2024
with the brand contributing to around 90% of the total group net revenue decline
The wine and spirits arm of LVMH, Moët Hennessy, cited Cognac as a main factor for the division’s 8% sales drop in the group’s 2024 full year
In 2023, exports of French spirits declined by double digits in both volume and value due to destocking by wholesalers in the US
Cognac was down by 21.1% in volume and by 14.8% in value in 2023
a high-end brandy produced in western France.Without a resolution of the trade row
these measures could become definitive next month
President Trump last week threatened to slap a 200% tariff on wine
cognac and other alcohol imports from Europe."200% would mean we won't sell one single bottle in the United States," Morillon said
Cognac exports to the country last year amounted to around 1 billion euros ($1.09 billion)
the BNIC said on Wednesday.($1 = 0.9173 euros)Reporting by Tassilo Hummel
Editing by Dominique Vidalon and Joe Bavier
REMY COINTREAU : "Liqueurs segment offsets Cognac weakness
keeping Rémy Cointreau in line with consensus"
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France's Foreign Minister Jean-Noël Barrot told journalists the investigation had been postponed by three months
China has reportedly postponed concluding its anti-dumping investigation into EU brandy products
According to reports from news outlets Bloomberg and Reuters on Friday (28 March)
France’s Foreign Minister Jean-Noël Barrot told journalists during a trip to China the completion of the probe had been delayed three months
“This measure should give us a few months’ breathing space with the reopening of duty-free sales of Cognac and Armagnac
which represent a significant volume of sales for some brands,” he said in emailed comments to Bloomberg
In January
China’s Ministry of Commerce announced it had extended its anti-dumping probe of brandy originating from the EU by three months
The investigation, launched on 5 January 2024 and initially due to last one year
have been unable to sell in duty-free channels for some time
Don’t let policy changes catch you off guard
Stay proactive with real-time data and expert analysis
following the early release of Pernod Ricard’s first-half results
CFO Hélène de Tissot said the company had seen a “worsening situation” in China linked to the “technical suspension of the duty-free regime impacting travel retail [in] Asia
China duty free and Cognac in China duty free”
When contacted by Just Drinks on the latest reports
France’s national Cognac trade body Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) said it had noted the announcement to the press
It added: “We need to study in more detail the feedback we will receive from the French government very shortly.”
The latest news does not mean existing tariffs on brandy are removed
China’s commerce ministry imposed “provisional dumping measures” on imports of EU-origin brandy
companies importing products including brandy have had to pay a security deposit to Chinese authorities upon arrival
The sum of the deposit is equivalent to tariffs recommended by the commerce ministry in August following the release of a preliminary report of its investigation
The probe has been assessing dumping allegations made between 1 October 2022 and 30 September 2023 for EU brandy imported in containers of under 200 litres
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PARIS/LONDON (Reuters) -French spirits group Remy Cointreau on Wednesday flagged a "steep recovery" in the critical U.S
market that has dragged on performance for over a year
sending its shares up more than 5% even as its fourth-quarter sales missed forecasts
I write about wines and spirits and the hidden corners of the worldFollow AuthorJan 18
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#article-stream-0 .quote-embed .font-size p{font-size: 36px;}A snifter of Cognac before a glowing fire
Cognac is among the world’s most expensive spirits
That’s especially true of ultra-aged expressions that matured for decades
The leading Cognac producers are among the beverage industry’s best-known brands and command a global footprint
Less well-known are the scores of small “artisan” producers
Their products can often be challenging to find
but they offer outstanding Cognacs at a fraction of the price charged by the larger Cognac houses
Below is a brief overview of Cognac and its artisan producers
Cognac is a globally renowned French brandy produced in Southern France’s Charente and Charente-Maritime departments
The Cognac AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) comprises six distinct growing regions (crus) with unique soil compositions and characteristics
Grand Champagne’s vineyards cover approximately 13,159 hectares/32,900 acres
They contain shallow clay-limestone soils over soft Cretaceous chalk
with limestone content typically exceeding 60%
light eaux-de-vie to craft elegant cognacs with exceptional aging potential
Petite Champagne’s vineyards cover approximately 15,246 hectares/38,115 acres
Its soils resemble Grande Champagne but with more compact
slightly less refined than Grande Champagne's
Borderies vineyards cover approximately 4,000 hectares/10,000 acres
It consists of clay and flint soils resulting from limestone decomposition
smooth cognacs with floral and nutty aromas
They mature faster than Champagne’s and are often used in blends to enhance complexity
Fins Bois’ vineyards cover approximately 31,200 hectares/78,000 acres
The soils are Jurassic era clay-limestone and red clay intermingled with large stones
fruity eaux-de-vie that age relatively quickly and have a bouquet reminiscent of freshly pressed grapes
Bons Bois’ vineyards cover approximately 9,300 hectares/23,250 acres
often used in blends; they age more rapidly and have a distinctive terroir character
Bois Ordinaires’ vineyards cover approximately 1,066 hectares/2,665 acres
They consist almost exclusively of sandy soils along the coast and on islands like Ré and Oléron
It produces fast-aging eaux-de-vie with a characteristic maritime flavor
These diverse soil compositions shape the distinct characteristics and quality of the cognacs produced in each appellation
oldest Cognacs typically come from Grand Champagne
and VSOP expressions are predominantly drawn from the ‘Bois’ appellations
Although chalk is predominantly found in the Grande Champagne and Petit Champagne
outcroppings occur in all the appellations
Ugni Blanc accounts for over 95% of plantings due to its disease resistance
Historic varieties like Folle Blanche and Colombard are occasionally used for added nuance and complexity
but they largely disappeared in the wake of the Phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century
buying eaux-de-vie from smaller producers and producing eaux-de-vie from their vineyards
these ‘Big Four’ represent around 85% to 90% of Cognac sales
The second tier consists of around two dozen producers
These producers typically have a global footprint
although smaller than the “Big Four” and vary by market
though their market penetration differs considerably
The third tier of Cognac producers consists of several hundred ‘artisinal producers.’ These are smaller
Most of their sales are within France and the rest of Europe
Many artisan producers sell eaux-de-vie to the larger producers
A selection of Cognac Ranging from the Big Four to Artisan Producers
Artisanal cognac production is centered around small-scale producers who uphold traditional methods to craft unique and high-quality expressions
The artisanal production sector has several characteristics:
Small-Scale Vineyards: Artisanal producers often own or lease small vineyards
allowing them to maintain control over the quality of the grapes
Vineyards are typically in highly regarded crus
Focus on Terroir: These producers emphasize terroir’s influence on the grapes—the soil
Subtle differences in terroir result in distinct flavor profiles
Traditional Harvesting and Distillation: Grapes
are hand-harvested to ensure optimal ripeness and quality
The production process parallels larger producers
Long-Term Aging: Artisanal producers often age their cognacs well beyond the minimum legal requirements
They routinely age a portion of their Cognacs for multi-generational periods
viewing this inventory as a pension plan for their retirement
Innovative Blending: Vintage Cognacs are unusual because the requirements to certify a vintage bottling are cumbersome
artisan bottlings are more likely to reflect vintage characteristics as they are blended from fewer eaux-de-vie
An ultra-aged Cognac from a major producer is typically blended from hundreds
Artisan producers typically blend from a handful of eaux-de-vie or are de facto single-vineyard expressions
If an ultra-aged expression is like a symphony
with each eaux-de-vie representing a single note
then artisan bottlings are more like a string quartet or a solo performance
Barrels of maturing Cognac at the Otard Distillery in Cognac
Below is a brief overview of several artisan Cognac producers I recently visited
It’s only a small selection from the hundreds of artisan producers
Cognac Bertrand
is a family-owned estate in the heart of the Petite Champagne region
It spans 82 hectares/205 acres and cultivates Ugni Blanc and Colombard grapes
the latter of which is the most interesting
this cognac features a layered complexity of floral
It’s smooth and creamy with a pronounced palate weight expressing dried and stewed fruit
Heritage: A limited edition 50 YO+ cognac distilled in the early 20th century on wood-fired stills
It’s balanced and remarkably well-integrated
it’s an exceptional value for a style of Cognac that has virtually disappeared
Visitors to the estate can explore the vineyards
and taste the authentic and rare products crafted by the Bertrand family
Cognac Pasquet is a family-owned
15-hectare/37.5-acre estate in the tiny township of Éraville in Grande and Petite Champagne dating back to 1730
they earned Agriculture Biologique certification in 1998
Cognac Pasquet offers a range of expressions:
L'Organic 07: Aged for at least 7 years
It’s chewy and viscous with a pronounced palate weight
L'Organic 10: This XO Cognac has been aged for at least 10 years and perfectly balances fruit
It features a complex bouquet of dried stone and tropical fruits
Trésors de Famille: is a series of ultra-aged single-barrel releases from the Grande Champagne cru
The selection varies but includes Cognacs up to 60+ YO
The 1957 selection featured slightly cooked vegetative notes
It’s mildly peppery with a candied sweetness
Cognac Pasquet's dedication to organic farming and traditional production methods results in authentic expressions that reflect Grande Champagne's unique terroir
Their range caters to enthusiasts and connoisseurs seeking quality and character in their Cognac
Cognac vineyard in the French Charente region
Cognac François Voyer is a family-owned Cognac House dating back to the mid-19th century
It encompasses 28 hectares/70 acres of vineyards in Grande Champagne near the villages of Verrières and Ambleville
Cognac François Voyer offers a range of expressions
each showcasing the unique characteristics of their Grande Champagne terroir:
this Cognac presents delicate floral notes typical of Grande Champagne
Gold XO: A blend of eaux-de-vie aged between 20 and 35 years
It delivers a complex profile of dried orchard
Extra: A luxurious blend of eaux-de-vie aged between 36 and 59 years
offering profound depth with flavors of dried stone and tropical fruits
Hors d’Âge: Matured between 47 and 76 years
this exceptional Cognac exhibits a rich tapestry of flavors
including dried/cooked stone/tropical fruits
It showcases the pinnacle of Voyer's craftsmanship
François Voyer's dedication to traditional methods and meticulous attention to detail have earned their Cognacs a place in some of France's finest Michelin-starred restaurants
artisanal cognac producers are gaining recognition
These small-scale producers continue to attract attention for their dedication to quality
ensuring a vibrant future for artisanal cognac
If you love Cognac and are unfamiliar with the world of artisanal Cognac
Photos: NFL Hall of Famer with Savannah ties has Cognac brandSavannah Morning NewsShannon Sharpe was recently in Savannah signing bottles of his Le Portier Shay VSOP Luxury Cognac
Sharpe launched his cognac brand, Le Portier
who raised him and instilled in him a "tireless work ethic and drive for success." But why did he start a cognac
"So much of the inspiration in my life comes from the places I've been, and people I've met through professional football," Sharpe said in a news release at the time
'What if I could share that sense of connection and conversation with friends with everyone?' That's the reason for creating Le Portier Cognac."
More: NFL Hall of Famer Shannon Sharpe signs bottles of his luxury cognac for fans in Savannah
More: Drink of a champion: Pro Football Hall of Famer with Savannah ties has a cognac brand
CFO Cécile Cabanis reflected on the global trading environment
noting: “I think we all need to stay very calm.”
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and could also cut costs in areas such as manufacturing and advertising spending.It has no plans to relocate its bottling line
a company spokesperson said.The Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac
has repeatedly urged the French government to negotiate a solution to protect the cognac industry."Some houses may be forced to explore all options that would enable them to maintain the presence of the appellation on the Chinese market," it said in a statement on Monday.Reporting by Alban Kacher; Additional reporting by Dominique Patton and Emma Rumney; Editing by David Evans
A distiller checks the condensers during the second distillation at a distillery in Touzac
Cognac makers are urging the French government to engage in talks with China to resolve bilateral trade tensions that have led to monthly losses of €50 million ($52 million) for the industry.
Additional reporting by Tassilo Hummel; Editing by Christian Schmollinger and Barbara Lewis
Reporting by Tassilo Hummel; Editing by Makini Brice
2025 at 6:04 AM ESTBookmarkSaveFrench Cognac shipments to China slid by 75% in December
according to a person familiar with the figures
after tariffs imposed by Beijing accelerated a collapse in demand
The new levies have made a visible impact on French Cognac exports
dragging down shipments to China by 9.6% for the full year
a representative for the Cognac lobby BNIC said Tuesday by email
including those from wooden barrels used for making cognac
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and cofounder of Uncle Nearest Premium Whiskey—is in the legacy-cementing business.Photograph by Pat MartinAll products featured on Bon Appétit are independently selected by our editors
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Let’s talk about some of the things you do to center yourself
I read that you and your husband have a standing daily coffee date: Weaver coffee hour
What does this new Weaver ritual look like?
We always start with Uncle Nearest neat. We’re going back to work, so cocktails aren’t how we’re trying to start dinner. We’re literally just taking a break in our workday. We go through phases of what we’re drinking. Right now I’ve been on an 1884 kick. But Keith’s been stuck on our single-barrel whiskey ever since it came out.
How has your approach to Uncle Nearest influenced your endeavor in cognac?
How has this drive to understand it more fully led you to your new book
Tuesday
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France's cognac industry has sounded the alarm
Its economy could collapse due to a potential border surtax of 39% which could be imposed by the Chinese authorities on April 5
followed by a 200% tariff from the Trump administration a few days later
By Laurence Girard
ROMAIN PERROCHEAU/AFP The clock is ticking and the cognac industry is holding its breath
China could decide to definitively impose import tariffs of 34-39% on the prized French brandy made in the Charente region – just as US President Donald Trump threatens a 200% tariff
To say that tensions are running high in Charente would be an understatement
the interprofessional group has sounded the alarm
concerned that its voice is not being heard
hopes rest on Foreign Minister Jean-Noël Barrot's visit to Beijing on Thursday
"Our shared objective is to find a swift resolution to this issue
allowing us to focus our energy and efforts on building partnerships and investments for the future," the French foreign minister said in Beijing on Thursday
"We would like him to ask for the application of customs duties to be postponed until July 5
and then for the prime minister [François Bayrou] to travel to China to settle the problem once and for all," said Florent Morillon
president of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC
a decision-making body for the cognac industry)
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Buy This Booze
words: Tim McKirdy
Following a massive sales spike during the pandemic, Cognac has experienced a fairly significant downturn in the past few years
amid an overall decline in spirits sales as well as fierce competition from other categories
When comparing Cognac with other styles of spirits
the world’s most prestigious brandy has a lot to offer — often at very competitive prices
Consider that this is a spirit made from a raw material (grapes) that exhibits much more character and personality than
That character is then bolstered by oak aging
Not all producers opt to use those acronyms
and as this collection of bottles will (hopefully) show
age and labeling terms are only a small part of the story when it comes to quality Cognac
expressions deserve to be thought of as sipping spirits
bottles on this list spend two to three times the minimum 10 years in barrel
Here are the 20 best Cognacs to drink right now
Throughout the year, VinePair conducts dozens of tastings for our Buy This Booze product roundups
highlighting the best bottles across the world’s most popular wine and spirits categories
VinePair’s tasting and editorial staff samples thousands of bottles every year
This helps us keep a finger on the pulse of what’s new and exciting
it also provides us with the context needed to distinguish the simply good from the truly great — whether from a quality or value-for-money perspective
VinePair’s mission is to offer a clear, reliable source of information for drinkers, providing an overview applicable to day-to-day buying and drinking. Learn more about VinePair’s tastings and reviews department here
We believe in tasting all products as our readers typically would: with full knowledge of the producer and — importantly — price
Our tastings are therefore not conducted blind
all expressions were sampled in Glencairn glasses and allowed to rest for a few minutes prior to tasting
while we don’t typically take a spirit’s appearance into consideration — unless there’s an obvious flaw — in this case we did consider it
That stems from the fact that Cognac houses can legally (and regularly do) include a number of additives
some of which impact the final appearance of the spirit
when it seemed obvious that a Cognac included a coloring agent
we considered whether that existed for consistency purposes or to give the impression of greater time spent in barrel; that conclusion ultimately played into whether or not a product made the final list
In order to provide our readers with the most comprehensive and thoroughly tested list of the best Cognacs to buy
and PR firms working on their behalf to send samples for consideration
These bottles were submitted free of charge — producers didn’t pay to submit nor did VinePair pay for the products
All were requested with the clear understanding that submission does not guarantee inclusion in the final list
we tasted 63 new submissions as well as almost a dozen bottles that had been sent to VinePair for prior iterations of this list
we assigned a score to each product on a 100-point scale based on the quality and intensity of its aromas
we reviewed all scores and compiled an editorially driven list that meets our criteria of the 20 best Cognacs to buy right now
these are not the 20 highest-scoring bottles we tasted from this year’s submission and years prior
this roundup features the best bottles across every price and for every scenario — i.e.
our aim was to provide a complete overview of the myriad styles and expressions of Cognac that define the world’s most famous brandy-producing region
bottlings alongside intricately aged and limited-production X.O
releases that spirits geeks should go to great lengths to seek out
We are confident that each bottle that made this final ranking delivers on flavor
and complexity for each of their respective price points
unofficial classification as an “all-rounder” requires the product to hold its own in — and not be too expensive for — cocktails
while also showing enough character and elegance to be sipped neat or over ice
In the case of Dudognon’s 10 year old “Reserve” release
it’s hard to say which application is more attractive
given it performs so well in both scenarios
This expression is made entirely from grapes grown in the Grande Champagne region
one of the six most prestigious Cognac crus
The fermented must was distilled in alembic stills heated using charcoal and wood
The final distillate received no additive other than water for proofing
with stone fruits and golden raisins the most prominent notes on nose and palate
while drying oak tannins leave the biggest impression on its lengthy finish
The freshness of fruit character and attractive golden hue belie those 10 years spent in barrel
and lead us to yearn for a taste of the 20- and 40-year expressions the Maison also offers
Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac “L’Organic 04” could also be considered an excellent “all-rounder.” Profile-wise
it shares much in common with Dudognon’s “Reserve” — fruity throughout with an overall vibrant profile
Things differ slightly when considering production specifics: This expression contains a blend of certified-organic grapes from the Grande Champagne (75 percent) and Petite Champagne (25 percent) regions
and the twice Charentais-distilled spirit spent four years aging prior to bottling
It is similarly additive free and bottled without chill filtration
One of the major factors that leads us to recommend this as the best Cognac for cocktails: With an average price of $42
this is tied for the second-cheapest bottle included in this year’s roundup
Not only does it overdeliver at that price and far outshine the similarly priced and cheaper samples we tasted this year
this Cognac arrives with rich body and complex texture
two factors that greatly impact the quality of mixed drinks
Some other aspects we took into account when considering what makes a great Cognac for cocktails: Ideally
the profile of the base ingredients and pre-aged distillate would shine through when sipped neat — i.e.
have just as much if not more presence than the influence of aging and aging vessels
That’s certainly the case with Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac “L’Organic 04.” What that equates to in mixed drinks is fruit-forward
energetic cocktails that immediately scream Cognac and aged eau-de-vie rather than just an oaky spirit mixed with modifiers and/or sweeteners and citrus
this is not just a bottle that deserves a space on your bar cart
Before exploring the bottle we’re highlighting in this category
it’s best to define what we mean by “beginners” or indeed what makes a great Cognac for said group of drinkers
Versatility and affordability could rightly be deemed among the most important considerations
someone new to the category should expect to be able to utilize the Cognac in a number of different ways
given that they’re taking something of a risk by exploring a new category
Both of the bottles already included in this list cover those bases proficiently
so we’re instead focusing on a bottle here that will more specifically appeal to drinkers looking to sip aged spirits for the first time or are more accustomed to sipping other styles of aged spirits
though in the realm of aged spirits neither is that price exorbitant
The brand offers little info when it comes to provenance of grapes
we know that the youngest component in the final blend spent at least four years in barrel prior to bottling
is either considerably older than that or — more likely — includes some additives that alter its color (and potentially flavor)
which is allowed and common in this category
it also goes a long way to explaining the final profile of this expression
with just enough brightness of fresh fruit
that duo of fruit and oak ensures this product will appeal to whiskey (especially bourbon and Tennessee whiskey) drinkers
while also offering something new and novel
and its celebrity association (Jay-Z owns part of the brand) raises another talking point when sharing with friends
While images of Cognac snifters and cigar pairings feel somewhat dated in 2024
it’s also hard to ignore the prestige of this category of spirit
Such realities were reflected in the pool of Cognacs considered for this roundup: More than half the bottles submitted and tasted from prior years’ submissions retail for more than $100
Cognac offers no shortage of options — and no shortage of worthy options
That makes this perhaps the most hotly contested category in this year’s roundup
which is reflected by the fact that this is also the highest-scoring bottle on this list
grower-producer whose grapes are grown over nearly 600 acres of proprietary Ugni Blanc vineyards
the Frapin family has been in the business for over 750 years
its current team representing the 21st generation of the family
meaning that — as of 2018 — the minimum age in the blend is 10 years old
this is a 20-plus-year blend that strikes a stunning balance between richness
light on its feet while also deeply contemplative
and it promises to serve up something new with each and every visit to the glass
This is not only the highest-scoring Cognac on this year’s list
it is among the most enjoyable spirits we’ve sampled in 2024
Château Montifaud claims that the age of this V.S
is higher than the two-year minimum for the classification
arriving light golden in color and remarkably fruity
Apple cider and pear aromas combine with honeysuckle on the nose
with just a hint of tannins that help to elongate the finish
offers an enjoyable mix of fruit and oak notes
and confidently navigates cocktail occasions
represents another younger expression from a brand we’ve previously reviewed and enjoyed an older
That’s not to make an apples-to-apples comparison with Courvoisier’s V.S.O.P
leans much more heavily into the fruity and fresh profile that the best younger Cognacs exhibit
On show is a vibrant mix of summer berries
While it’s on the slightly pricier end of the spectrum for cocktails
we urge you to deploy this one in the mixing glass or shaker
Maison Merlet distilled Cognac for major houses for over 160 years before deciding to finally bottle a product under its own name
whose efforts are referenced in the “Brothers” name
with more influence of oak arriving on the palate in the form of caramel sweetness
A strong candidate for the “beginners” category
bursting out of the gates with vanilla and cocoa aromas
Fruit remains similarly in the backseat on the palate
but the depth of flavors and introduction of toasted nuts and honeyed sweetness are a fine substitute
while expressed orange and lemon peel on the finish round everything out
While it’s great to highlight and celebrate quality base distillate, equal attention is owed to innovations with oak aging. We’ve previously celebrated Bache Gabrielsen’s “American Oak” release
and this year we’re focusing on the producer’s “Triple Cask” expression
which stems from a process that uses “three successive oak wood rotations
and finished in seasoned casks,” according to the brand
the result is a refined and oaky — but not overbearing — Cognac
with pronounced notes of vanilla and fig cookies
This is a fun and well-priced sipping spirit
100 percent of the grapes for this Cognac were grown in the Grande Champagne region
with distillation taking place in Charentais stills
and maturation in a mix of Limousin (predominantly) and Tronçais barrels
and peach make up the majority of the nose
with a notably rich texture and great depth of flavors
Among the major names outside the “Big Four,” Hardy is a well-established and respected Cognac house
and one that isn’t afraid to move with the times
Farming practices remain less of a talking point in this category than they do with wine
but Hardy is ahead of the mainstream curve
while also serving luscious notes of vanilla and poached peaches
it’s about 25 percent more expensive than the brand’s standard V.S.O.P.
but we’d happily pay that premium for what is a noticeable jump in quality
seek out this fabulous release from the vaunted Maison Ferrand
Its name represents the family’s rich lineage in the Grande Champagne region
while the profile leans heavy into hazelnut
Fruit is not so much absent but instead an enjoyable supporting character
Hine Rare is a noticeable standout out in the V.S.O.P
with its striking bottle — one more commonly found in the X.O
Fresh fruit aromas combine with decadent prunes and raisins on the nose
while the palate delivers ample fresh fruit richness
This Cognac was clearly made using high-quality grapes
and treated with the utmost respect from grape to glass
In recent years, Mizunara oak barrels have become something of a standalone brand in the realm of aged spirits
almost as important as the base distillate that was aged or finished in them
The Japanese oak’s influence can sometimes prove tough to pin down
adding spiced sandalwood and light baking spice notes that complement a base profile of baked apple
and delivering an experience quite unlike any other in the Cognac space
An equal blend of eaux de vie from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne
the minimum age in this bottling is a staggering 35 years old
That’s not typical for releases in this age classification
On offer here is a heady exploration of tertiary aromas and flavors
as well as dried stone fruits and very subtle baking spices
this might well be the best expression to pull it out for
some of what you’re paying for here appears to be the packaging — though
because the liquid inside is also exceptional
Expressive autumn and winter spices open the nose
while tannic grip adds textural complexity
This is a great pick if you’re looking for a sipper that’s rich and nuanced
offers no specifics on aging duration but it’s clear from its profile that it spent considerably more than the 10 years minimum in oak (in this case Limousin and Tronçais barrels)
Subtle baking spices take center stage along with notes of potpourri and dried stone fruits
while accents of fresh tobacco return the conversation to age
Also notable is the uncommon blend of base grapes: Folle Blanche
While the profile isn’t a million miles from standard Ugni Blanc expressions
what is abundantly clear is the gracefulness with which this Cognac has aged
Rémy Martin is a household name that benefits from vast stocks and centuries of institutional experience and knowledge
expression — fancifully named “The Icon” — is a textbook example of heavily aged Cognac available at a large scale
the focus is dialed in on the interplay of oak
and base distillate — the latter of which arrives with surprising energy on the palate
Dollops of oaky vanilla provide an enjoyable serving of perceived sweetness
while French-oak-derived tannins add texture
La Maison du Whisky’s line of “Through the Grapevine” Cognacs is a collection of single-barrel offerings (and a longtime favorite in the VinePair office)
This expression from lauded producer Francois Voyer is fruit-forward and youthful up front
leading to a finish that’s complex and layered
By nature of the line’s single-cask credentials
you might struggle to encounter this exact bottle
but the words “Through the Grapevine” should be a strong signal to “Buy Now,” should you have the means
stands for “Very Special (or Superior) Old Pale.” In V.S.O.P
the youngest Cognac in the blend must be at least 4 years old
or “Extra Old,” means the youngest in the blend is 10 years old
Cognac is a style of brandy made in Cognac
a delimited region to the north of Bordeaux
The cheapest Cognac on this list is Château Montifaud V.S.
which comes in at an average of $40 per bottle and delivers for both cocktails (primarily) as well as sipping
Another much more widespread option is Courvoisier V.S.O.P.
which retails for an average of $42 and should be available at most major retailers
increasing in clarity as my flight approaches its landing
Great plains of greenery and estuaries of water lie beneath as I rub my tired eyes and drown the last drops of a tepid black coffee
where Gatwick waved me off 90 or so minutes earlier
as the plane’s wheels touch down on the runway
I’m in for quite the adventure in the next 48 hours.
“Hennessy is older than the USA,” my PR companion for the next two days tells me
The iconic drinks brand is the reason for my visit—destination Cognac
I’ll be receiving an in-depth tour of where it all began hundreds of years ago
witnessing how the brand remains at the cutting edge of technology with their astounding VR experience
checking out their visionary new Hennessy X.O Collection collaboration with esteemed French artist Florian Zumbrunn
and—of course—taking in some of Cognac’s finest eateries.
The Maison sure knows how to woo a journalist
Chauffeured up the Autoroute from Bordeaux airport in a classy and congenial Mercedes Benz
as I’m beguiled by the vast hectares of vineyards that sprawl in every direction
with cobbled streets and charmfully dilapidated buildings being our surroundings as the car nears the town’s centric river—and Hennessy HQ.
we step out into a light drizzle to be greeted by our hosts and escorted straight into a stylish dining room for a spot of well-needed lunch; an amalgamation of traditional hors d’oeuvres—beef tartare
We’re eating in the building where it all began
some 260 years ago in 1765 when Irish military officer and businessman Richard Hennessy first opened the estate’s doors and filled its barrels
the empire has been passed down through eight generations of the brand’s eponymous family
until the last of the dynasty died in the 1960s
Hennessy looks beyond its bloodline for its ménage
we join with a wider party of Cognac visitors for a formal tour of the properties
A short bus ride takes us to the cellars just across the river
where we are guided through a showcase of heritage
There’s a fascinating video about the company’s origins
covering all from Richard’s early motivations to the company’s later globalisation throughout the 19th century
up until the modern identity of what we know as Hennessy today
We’re given a detailed look at the actual production of the cognac
which can only be made in this region due to the specifications of where the grape can be grown
that requires layers of science that are beyond my immediate comprehension; a reminder of life’s gorgeous intricacy
that’d be thanks to the distill committee
Seven individuals who train their whole life to be among the most significant cogs in the Maison’s ever-turning machine
who at 11am every day test the Cognac’s look
As for the meticulous maintenance of the cognac
all barrels are derived from oak at least 85 years old
it’s time for a left-field turn—a recent augmentation
the 19 minute odyssey is a trip-laden dive into the history and DNA of the brand
inspired by Richard Hennessy’s own sketches from 1765
and brought to life by French artists Olivier Kuntzel & Florence Deygas
The actuality of what is witnessed is tricky to put into words
but just picture: storming down a monochrome cartoon river accompanied by a coterie of Michelin Man-looking fellas who are made out of barrels
a gentler grounding through the cellars is much obliged
as we marvel at boundless rooms full of seemingly endless barrels of eau-de-vie—the unblended
and into the shop area for some tasting—finally
We part ways with the wider group and depart straight off for some more Henny-related fun
who make the barrels for the distilling of the alcohol
passionate about a craft that he studied for years in order to undertake it as his profession
He amiably takes us step-by-step through the multi-dimensional and highly difficult process
even making the demonstration interactive as we give some of the simpler steps a go ourselves
there’s more archaic barrels to look at
checking out the founders cellar—an entrance into history
seeing barrels of brandy that date back to 1800.
Following a look at the past, we take a glance at the future. The Maison’s new collaboration with Florian Zumbrunn was one of the main attractions of our visit
a trailblazer in generative art who studied at Paris’ revered visual arts school Les Gobelins and whose works have been shown at exhibitions across the globe
feels a natural choice for the groundbreaking concept
one in which he immersed himself within from the very genesis of the collaboration
“Hennessy approached me with a bold concept,” the artist told me in the days after my trip
“Using a robot to draw directly on a Hennessy X.O’s second skin bottle shell
making each of them completely unique and personalised
I was immediately intrigued by the technical challenges and the innovation behind the project
which fuelled my creativity.”
Although “collaborations aren’t something I jump into lightly,” Zumbrunn took a trip to Cognac
cementing his respect for Hennessy and his desire to work alongside them
“I learned about the Maison’s history
one of the last traditional ones in Europe
Seeing how eaux-de-vie are aged in barrels for years and then blended together was a revelation
Multiple elements merge to create a single
timeless blend—this directly inspired the generative approach for my series.”
The partnership saw Zumbrunn draw on his previous practice of the coalition between the physical and the digital
“In my everyday practice in generative art
I begin by working at my computer but finish in my studio,” he explains
“I like to say I ‘paint with code,’ because I spend about 70% of my time at a keyboard
exploring ideas and concepts much faster than I could with purely traditional methods
I introduce a lot of randomness so that surprises happen and unexpected ideas emerge
It’s a constant dialogue between the code
and that blend of digital and physical approaches felt very natural for me
personalised second skin cases of the iconic Hennessy X.O decanters
along with fine art matching prints —two different mediums but both expressions of the same algorithm
This duality is a new direction for me and a fascinating one
and artists are constantly debating how best to represent it
This collaboration offers fresh insights: maybe code is the ‘true source’ of everything
yet its physical manifestations can be just as meaningful.”
It’s a joy to witness in real life; the algorithmic process develops into a vibrant and unique bottle that buyers can take home
built from a collaboration of forward-thinkers in their respective fields
I want to build upon what came before while adding my own perspective and techniques
Working with Hennessy felt like a natural fit: we’re both pushing boundaries
yet we still honour the legacy that got us here.”
and after a busy day of learning and tasting
Hotel Chais Monnet & Spa is a dazzling location
sharp on the detail and luxurious in its decor
and see out the evening chatting merrily on the event-filled day we’ve had.
and with it the opportunity to visit the spa for a swim and steam
we head for lunch at a delightful Cognac eatery (I had the fish again
The country house estate is a crowning jewel in the Hennessy dynasty
August Hennessy—the grandson of the founder—bought the house for his wife in 1841 after she wrote a kindly letter asking him to
The estate was passed down through generations of Hennessy as the family’s home base
until 1963 when the last of the family passed
It has since played host to an eclectic array of celebrities
sprawling across seven acres of grounds on the banks of the Charente River
splendidly untouched from its centuries of history
We spend a glorious few hours exploring the house and tasting various of the Maison’s cognacs alongside some sweet treats
The rich heritage of the establishment sweeps over me as the brandy hits the back of my throat and I survey the annals of the past around me
savouring every second of the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity
but soon trails into fatigue and reflection
I’ve spent less than two days in this decadent crevice of France
but most certainly fell in love with its allure
Hennessy is one of the Western world’s most recognisable brands
but its complexity and character behind the curtain leaves the imagination twinkling
and a future that promises invention and innovation
the Maison’s legacy will only continue to grow.
the fields of vineyards become mere dots of history
And I think to myself: this life is truly without limit
to those who know where to source its unwritten potential.
For more on Hennessy, visit here
For more A Trip To…’, visit here
Words – Ben Tibbits
Wonderland Features Editor Ben Tibbits visits Bilbao to dig deep into the city's art
and to attend one of elrow's iconic parties
Features Editor Ben Tibbits takes on his latest European city
for Kappa Futur Festival's 'Art & Techno' experience
Ben Tibbits is back with another adventure
this time moseying on up to Sheffield for Tramlines Festival
climbing many a hill and losing his mind to Jamie T
Wonderland Features Editor Ben Tibbits heads to Formentera for SON Estrella Galicia Posidonia
attending Sónar Lisboa for a weekend full of the best in European electronic music and Portuguese culture
Jaeger-LeCoultre furthers the case for watchmaking as art with this posthumous collaboration
Ben Tibbits visits Groningen to attend ESNS
battling the cold and discovering the best emerging talent
Ben Tibbits takes an adventure-filled trip to Berlin to visit and discover one of the city's most prominent nightclubs
Frequenting rising Athenian electronic festival Primer
Wonderland Features Editor Ben Tibbits finds big-hitting crowd-pleasers
Ben Tibbits takes a trip to Amsterdam to discover Kafe Raves
Zany characters and beautifully odd occurrences: here's what went down..
Armed with nothing but a notepad and an extra pair of socks
heading to the notorious Rise Festival for a week of skiing and electronic music
Chivas Regal welcomes Charles Leclerc as Global Brand Ambassador
London-based designer to discuss her eponymous brand’s SS25 collection
and reflections on a decade-long journey in fashion
Juliet Ivy took us behind the scenes on her recent endeavour to London in an exclusive photo diary
Rising actor Stuart Thompson talks his early acting education and the intricacies of his role in Three Sisters at Sam Wanamaker Playhouse
Kel P and Wande Coal tell us about their new joint project "Best of Both Worlds"
discussing the process and decisions behind the work
Feng Chen Wang brought back memories to her Autumn/Winter 2025 runway show
Warner Music and Hennessy celebrated the BRIT Awards 2025 with a show-stopping
star-heavy extravaganza at Claridge’s in Mayfair
Wonderland meets Paradise's Dom Fernando to document the restaurant's rise and discuss their new collaboration with cherished whisky brand Glenmorangie
I write about wines and spirits and the hidden corners of the worldFollow AuthorJan 02
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#article-stream-0 .quote-embed .font-size p{font-size: 36px;}Some of the high end Cognacs in the Courvoisier range
Courvoisier
is one of Cognac’s largest and most storied producers
Below is a brief history of the House and tasting notes on its current range of Cognacs
a testament to its unwavering commitment to excellence
one of the four major cognac houses globally
often referred to as one of the 'Big Four' alongside Hennessy
The brand's connection to Napoleon Bonaparte
although the link is somewhat tenuous and predates the firm's founding
Courvoisier developed the designation Napoleon for one of its brandy expressions and famously used a silhouette of Napoleon
a unique and intriguing aspect of the brand's identity
Louis Gallois and Felix Courvoisier founded a wines and spirits business in Bercy
Napoleon Bonaparte visited the firm in 1811
and it’s believed he became a customer of the firm’s Cognac
though at the time it would not have carried the Courvoisier brand
Napoleon took several barrels of Cognac with him into exile on St Helena
though it is unclear where that Cognac was sourced
The British officers who accompanied him and partook in the Cognac referred to it as "The Cognac of Napoleon," an expression Courvoisier would later use in its marketing campaigns
Courvoisier moved its operations to Jarnac
That date marks the birth of the Cognac House and its now legendary brand
Napoleon III appointed Courvoisier the 'Official Supplier to the Imperial Court' in 1869
Napoleon III also played a significant role in promoting the Cognac industry
he played a major role in promoting free trade between France and Great Britain
The Maison Courvoisier in Jarnac has recently been extensively refurbished
resulted in a boom in France’s exports of wines and spirits
Many of the grand chateau in Cognac were built during this golden age of Cognac sales
the boom in Cognac sales was cut short by the advent of the phylloxera epidemic that decimated Cognac’s vineyards between 1870 and 1895
Courvoisier adheres to strict production practices
highlighting its commitment to quality and consistency
The company uses grapes drawn from the Grande Champagne
valued for its high acidity and ability to produce clean
more robust Cognacs with a more pronounced palate weight and texture
It’s unclear if some eaux-de-vie is distilled off the lees to have lighter blending stock with a different aroma and flavor profile
The Cognac is subsequently aged in French oak barrels sourced from the Limousin and Tronçais forests
a master blender meticulously selects and blends eaux-de-vie of various ages and crus
Courvoisier’s VS Cognac includes spirits aged up to eight years
it features fresh orchard fruit aromas of apple and pear
The VSOP Cognac blends spirits aged for 8–12 years
it’s a blend of Fins Bois and Petite Champagne eaux-de-vie
It’s rich and robust but balanced on the palate
with lingering hints of nutmeg and dark chocolate
it is ideal for sipping high-quality cocktails
The XO Cognac comprises eaux-de-vie aged 10–25 years
focusing on Grande and Petite Champagne spirits
Courvoisier XO Royal is an exceptional Cognac that reflects the historic blends once favored by European royalty
notably inspired by the exclusive "Edward VII Reserve" crafted for Britain's King Edward VII in the early 1900s
It’s robust and full-bodied on the palate featuring dried fruits
The nose is exceptionally long and powerful
A 1952 advertisement from Courvoisier promoting its Cognac as "The Brandy of Napoleon."
The Courvoisier Napoléon is a blend of 25 eaux-de-vie aged 15–25 years
focusing on Borderies and Grande Champagne crus
Although Napoleon Cognac is typically younger than an XO Cognac
Courvoisier is an exception as its Napoleon Cognac is older than its XO
the Napoléon offers rich aromas of dried fruits
The Initiale Extra Cognac is aged for 30+ years and is made from rare eaux-de-vie from Grande Champagne and Borderies
L’Essence is Courvoisier’s oldest and most complex Cognac expression
It’s crafted from eaux-de-vie aged up to 60 years
layered complexity featuring stone and tropical fruits
and rancio aromas of old leather and furniture wax
blending the finest cognacs in Courvoisier’s cellar
Courvoisier is a testament to the artistry and heritage of cognac-making
combining meticulous craftsmanship with a distinct style characterized by smoothness
Each expression offers a unique journey through the terroir and traditions of the Cognac region
making Courvoisier a timeless choice for casual drinkers and connoisseurs
Alice Lascelles
selects her favourite stories in this weekly newsletter
The Spicy Margarita is everywhere – in plenty of bars I know it now accounts for half of all drinks sales
But what would we all be drinking if the bar world’s top tastemakers had their way
“Perfect [as a sub for whiskey] in classics like Manhattans or as a stand-in for cognac in a Vieux Carré.” Ennismore’s head of bars Robert Simpson makes the case for calvados
“which has flavours from crisp fresh fruit through to apple strudel”
Punch editor Talia Baiocchi agrees: “I love a simple calvados and tonic.”
PM Spirits VS Overproof VS Bas Armagnac, $62.50 for 75cl, pmspirits.com Sazerac de Forge & Fils Finest Original Cognac, £120.99 for 70cl, masterofmalt.com
Bénédictine DOM Liqueur, £31.25 for 70cl, thewhiskyexchange.com
Some might find this old-school 3:1 formula a bit heavy on the crème de menthe
20ml white crème de menthe (such as Tempus Fugit)
Shake with ice and then either strain into a cocktail glass
or serve over crushed ice in a rocks glass
Some variations on this creamy classic feature an additional 30ml of cognac
Shake hard with ice until silky and then strain into a cocktail glass
Perhaps 2025 will see the red-hot Margarita make way for something a bit more smouldering
@alicelascelles
, opens new tab and Remy Cointreau (RCOP.PA), opens new tab
days after the 27-state bloc voted for tariffs on Chinese-made EVs.Macron urged Xi to drop the tariffs at the G20 meeting in Brazil
telling reporters on Tuesday that China's targeting of cognac came as a surprise.France refuses to lift its support for EV tariffs to reduce pressure on its cognac sector
Paris says the two issues are unrelated and that Beijing's measures on cognac were political and retaliatory.China is the second-largest export market for cognac after the United States and the industry's most profitable
accounting for $1.7 billion in exports last year.On a visit to Shanghai earlier this month
junior trade minister Sophie Primas reminded her Chinese counterpart that Xi Jinping had himself promised Macron during a state visit earlier this year that there would be no tariffs on French brandy
said a government source briefed on the meeting.SPIRITED DIPLOMACYSpeaking to reporters after meeting Xi
Macron said the Chinese president had agreed to work transparently on the issue and that his prime minister
would travel to China early next year."We have initiated a process and I am hopeful that we can come out of it on top
by returning to normal," Macron said.Chinese measures have already caused order cancellations and deferred orders
president of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC)
who welcomed the intensified diplomatic push.China's measures do not apply to bulk shipments
which currently accounts for just 2 to 3% of volumes
as traditionally cognac is produced and bottled entirely in its home region.Unions representing the sector are worried other producers could also move bottling operations to China.Remy has said it has no such plans
while Pernod Ricard declined to comment.The unions plan to lobby the BNIC to include bottling activity inside the scope of a 'controlled designation of origin' (AOC) label to protect the local workforce
a Hennessy technician and secretary of the company's employee representative committee.Blocking bulk cognac shipments was also under consideration
said Devers.Trade unions were also discussing expanding the industrial action across the Cognac region
said Frederic Merceron of the Force Ouvrière union.Reporting by Alban Kacher
Elizabeth Pineau; Additional reporting by Emma Rumney and and Michel Rose; Editing by Richard Lough and Alexander Smith