There has never been a better time to visit Champagne. The region’s hotels, restaurants and visitor experiences are finally catching up to the reputation of the wines themselves.
There’s plenty to see around Reims and Épernay, both possible as day trips from Paris on the train, although it’s certainly worth getting out into the villages to escape the tour groups.
Book in advance, preferably by at least two weeks, and make sure to call if you’re going to be more than a few minutes late. Bear in mind that the roads can be deceptively slow when the tractors are out during the summer months!
Lunch closures are sacred (including for car hire companies in Reims and Épernay), and don’t forget to check for when the numerous public holidays might fall.
Smaller producers are often more reluctant to take visitors during peak times of vineyard work (late June, July and around harvest), and all but the largest houses effectively shut down in August.
Pavillon Nicolas Ruinart. Credit: Chloé Le Reste
A recent renovation means that visitors to Ruinart in Reims will now be treated to one of the region’s most striking visitor experiences. The visit includes the Gallo-Roman crayères (chalk pits) where the Champagnes age, the brand new Nicolas Ruinart Pavilion, designed by architect Sou Foujimoto, as well as sculpture gardens and 5,000 square metres of listed woodland.
When it comes to tasting the champagnes of this supremely elegant Chardonnay-focused house, the opportunities are no less tempting; the bar in the Nicolas Ruinart pavilion offers everything from the entry level non vintages to late disgorged editions of flagship Dom Ruinart and Ruinart Millésimé, not available elsewhere and, most unusually, by the glass.
The new visitor centre at Taittinger’s Saint-Nicaise cellars
Taittinger’s historic cellars at 9 Place Saint-Nicaise reopened in 2024, and a new restaurant is imminent in 2025. Visitors can see the unique cellars, which are part of the World Heritage-listed cultural landscape of Champagne. They are built on the site of the 13th century Abbey of Saint-Nicaise, whose crypt, cellar and tunnels are linked with the same network of dramatic Gallo-Roman crayères that sit under the south part of Reims.
There is a selection of group tours to choose from. These can include tastings of Taittinger’s prestige cuvées Comtes de Champagne and Comtes de Champagne Rosé. There’s also the Instant Gourmet experience, which sees juicy and fruity prestige rosé Champagnes and long-aged vintage bottlings are paired with miniature dishes designed by renowned local chef Phillipe Mille.
Visits and tastings between €40-€100 (£35-£86).
9 Place Saint-Nicaise, 51100 Reims, France
Tours, tastings and dining experiences are all available at Pierre Paillard. Credit: Pierre Paillard
Brothers Antoine and Quentin Paillard are undoubted stars of the Montagne de Reims, with an impressive family domaine based in the grand cru village of Bouzy. It’s the perfect place to get an understanding for Pinot Noir on these sunny, chalky, south-facing slopes, with the cuvées showing perfectly pitched oak fermentation and food-friendly intensity.
This is an independent estate, so tour sizes are small and reservation is essential – made easy by a handy booking system on their website. Experiences include visits to the vineyard in Bouzy, cellar tours and tastings of four Champagnes, as well as a chef’s table dining experience. Look out for the still red Bouzy, one of the leading examples of a historic specialism of the village.
There are warm welcomes nearby at Brice, Paul Déthune and Eric Rodez, too – as with all independent producers, these are all by appointment.
Visits, tastings and dining experience between €80-€100 (£69-£86).
2 Rue du Vingtième Siècle, 51150 Bouzy, France
The beautiful village of Cuis. Credit: www.champagne-gimonnet.com
Visiting independent growers is an essential part of any Champagne itinerary. Many of them work very small, localised parcels of vineyards, but at Gimmonet (one of the larger growers in the region) you can get to know a whole sub-region of Champagne: the northern Côte des Blancs, home of some of Champagne’s greatest Chardonnay. These are impeccably crisp, pure wines which present a vivid picture of the chalky slopes between Cuis and Oger. I
t’s best to book a visit in advance, although this is one of the rare growers that has published opening hours. After your visit, head down into the Côte des Blancs to find warm welcomes from producers such as Champagnes Lancelot-Pienne, Diebolt-Vallois, Delamotte, Franck Bonville, Doyard and Larmandier-Bernier.
1 Rue de la République, 51530 Cuis, France
In the vineyards with the chickens at Champagne Moussé Fils. Credit: www.champagnemousse.fr
In the Drappier vineyards. Credit: www.champagne-drappier.com
Visit and tasting €25 (£22), by appointment
The cellars at Ayala. Credit: www.champagne-ayala.fr
Visits and tastings between €30-€105 (£26-£91)
Maison Gosset. Credit: www.champagne-gosset.com
12 Rue Godart Roger, 51200 Épernay, France
Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa, an exquisite and newly renovated stay in Épernay, France, has incredible dining and a sumptuous spa.
xavier ferrand/Courtesy of Hostellerie La Briqueterie
FranceChevron
ReimsChevron
you’ll want to plan ahead by making reservations at wineries and tasting rooms
and deciding how you’ll safely get from destination to destination once you’ve had a glass or three of wine
where to taste wine in the Champagne region
This article has been updated since its original publish date
Many local businesses in Champagne offer bicycle and e-bike rentals
with little vineyard maintenance happening,” she notes
Summer is the perfect time to take advantage of the region’s famous bike paths
as well as join outdoor tastings that many producers and restaurants offer once temperatures rise
A junior suite at Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa
Decorated in early 20th-century classical French style
no room is the same; expect unique wallpapers
and subtle design touches that transport you back to the time of Louis XIV—without feeling cheesy
The cellar also features over 1,200 bottles of Champagne
so you can still taste from producers that don’t make it into your itinerary
Don’t sleep in and miss the breakfast buffet
which includes a decadent spread of cheeses local to the region
a by-the-glass Champagne list with which to start off your morning
expect tastings to start from the moment you enter reception
Avoid the temptation to cram as many tastings as possible into each day
and hold yourself to one visit in the morning
The majority of Champagne houses require reservations in advance for tours and tastings
explore the cellars and learn about the house’s history dating back to the 1820s
and an extensive boutique that you can peruse after a tour of their cellars installed in cavernous chalk cathedrals
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you’ll find a series of massive construction projects underway as major changes are afoot for the town
which is considered to be the capital of Champagne
you will immediately notice that the car park in front of the station has been dug up
although there will still be a pick-up and drop-off area for motorists and taxis
the much great development is taking place five minutes’ walk from the Epernay train station
near the Avenue de Champagne – where the great maisons of the region’s Grandes Marques are situated
housing an increasing number of oenotourism facilities
from restaurants and bars to educational experiences
At the base of this famous tree-lined Champagne street is a roundabout
which is where you will see the start of a massive new project for what is a fairly small town
Already installed to one side of the roundabout is a new car park
featuring more than 400 spaces spread over six underground levels
As you can see above and in the video below
not only can the train station car park be greened over
situated behind the new underground structure
is being removed altogether and turned into a park with avenues and a mirror pond
covering more than a hectare that formerly provided parking for as many as 650 cars
but one that will be re-imagined as a green space
at the end that is nearest the roundabout (and underground car park) will be a major new hotel from the Marriott group
and shops on the ground floor (see picture below)
Speaking about the development to db last week
president at Champagne Besserat de Bellefon
said that the new green space would be “beautiful” with a diverse collection of tree species
describing the project as “breathing new life into Epernay”
Although works on the site are due to finish by September this year
Doucet said that she thought it was more likely that the park would be ready by early 2026
she said that the balloon ride that is situated in this new development
which takes people 150m off the ground – providing panoramic views of the town and surrounding vineyards – was going to be removed
it has suffered setbacks due to the weather
with winds causing the ride to be closed regularly
This is a shame for Champagne Besserat de Bellefon, which has recently finished its new headquarters immediately in front of the balloon, where the house now has an eighteenth-century maison featuring a bar and restaurant
the new gardens and landscaped areas outside Besserat de Bellefon’s building will provide a more beautiful outlook than the current design
while bringing more people to this part of the town
The only question mark now hangs over the future of the old police station next door to Besserat de Bellefon
which has been empty for more than a year after a modern facility was constructed for Epernay’s forces on an out-of-town site
Although the old police station is in “terrible condition” according to Doucet
it is an architecturally-important nineteenth-century stone building with a large garden at the back
who believes it may be bought by Champagne Moët & Chandon for use as office space
It’s also thought possible that the building may provide a boutique for sister brands in the Moët Hennessy stable
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At the 2024 PCA Convention & Trade Show, Illusione showed off new packaging for its Epernay line
the plan was to begin shipping some of the new-look Epernay in late March
Illusione began shipping the new Epernay line
which features the first major packaging change since the line was introduced in 2009
and it continues to be made at Raíces Cubanas in Honduras
an outlier compared to the rest of Illusione’s cigars
The new packaging keeps the gold-on-white color scheme
but it’s now used on much larger bands and the boxes have been updated to feature a new seal
which uses a lone swan as a brand identifier
there are two minor variations of the new Epernay packaging
will continue to be the lone vitola sold in coffins
though the coffins have been updated to be consistent with the new look
The Epernay 10th Anniversary d’Aosta also has new packaging
Epernay’s roots trace back to 2008 when Illusione released the ~eccj~ 15th as part of European Cigar Cult Journal’s 15th anniversary. A year later, that blend reemerged under a new name: Epernay. The name refers to Épernay
a commune in France known for its Champagne
recommendation is to pair Illusione Epernay with Champagne
In 2022, Illusione began updating the packaging of nearly every line it sold
Epernay and OneOff were the two lines that were not part of this major update
I am an editor and co-founder of halfwheel.com/Rueda Media
I previously co-founded and published TheCigarFeed
I have written about the cigar industry for more than a decade
covering everything from product launches to regulation to M&A
I handle a lot of the behind-the-scenes stuff here at halfwheel
wearing sweatshirts year-round and eating gyros
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Most visitors to Champagne head for Epernay
is home to a number of well-known Champagne houses (including a fair few who trade more on the foot traffic than the quality of the wines)
and a number of smart places to relax with a glass
is that even a one-night trip to Champagne gives plenty of time to explore independently without having to hire a car or arrange a tour
This map shows train routes to Champagne from Paris
as well as the route from Reims to Epernay and all the fantastic villages producers
restaurants and bars to visit along the way
Epernay may bill itself as the Champagne capital, but it’s Reims
well worth exploring in its own right (as well as boasting a number of top Champagne houses and the region’s finest dining and drinking options)
Admittedly it’s a little further away from many of the vineyards
but if you want a bit of buzz in the mornings and evenings it’s the best place to base yourself
Trains run from Paris Gare de l’Est to Reims
There are also separate trains to Champagne-Ardenne TGV (high-speed train) station
located on the southwestern edge of Reims city
This connects to the Reims-Epernay train line
although it’s better to head directly to those two cities if they’re your planned first stops
it’s perfectly convenient for the (sometimes lengthy) gaps in the TGV service to Reims
direct trains to Epernay from Paris Gare de l’Est
too (taking one hour 20 minutes) – these run mostly at commuter times in both directions
They have the bonus of running along the pretty Marne Valley vineyards on the way into Epernay
With its pretty villages and great train connections
Champagne is an easy region to visit by rail
Running once an hour in both directions throughout the day
the regional train (called the TER) calls at two notable Champagne villages – Rilly-la-Montagne and Avenay Val d’Or – and perhaps most usefully Champagne’s historic vineyard town
perched on the river Marne just north of Epernay
STOP 1: Rilly-la-Montagne, just 13 minutes on the train from Reims, is a quiet town on the north-facing side of the Montagne de Reims. This is a well-regarded town and its vineyards are rated premier cru, and are known for producing fruity and bright Pinot Noir, as well as some Meunier
Vilmart & Cie and Didier Herbert (soon becoming Herbert & Co
Be sure to make appointments in advance (see tips below)
Le Bacchus and Prise de Mousse are good stops for lunch and a glass
It is also possible to walk 20 minutes through the vineyards (on the Chemin des Wardes) to pretty Chigny-les-Roses
friendly restaurant with top-notch cooking and a smart Champagne list (and Champagne Palmer & Co’s Domaine du Chalet provides upmarket accommodation)
There are a number of Champagne producers here
from independent Gounel-Lassalle to the house of Cattier
just five minutes on from Rilly-la-Montagne
although the biodynamic grower Augustin and the bold
oak-influenced Champagnes of Crucifix Père et Fils are both to be found in the village (both accept visits by appointment)
Nearby, too, is the popular Loisium spa hotel in Mutigny
with its heated pool overlooking the vineyards
modern rooms and well-appointed bar (it’s a steep 45-minute walk up to Mutigny)
STOP 3: The final stop before Epernay is Aÿ
a town known since at least the 14th century for its wines
Aÿ is home to the sister houses Bollinger and Ayala (both of which offer visits bookable online)
as well as Deutz and top independent estate Henri Giraud (which also offers accommodation in the luxurious Manoir Giraud)
A short walk (best taken along the canal) takes you to Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
where Billecart-Salmon and Philipponnat call home (both accept limited visitors
Top growers in these two villages include Geoffroy and Marc Hébrart
heartier fare at local favourite Rôtisserie Henri IV
an interactive sensory and tasting experience housed in an old Pommery press-house
Leclerc-Briant and A Bergère promise some of the top Champagnes on offer in the town
with Sacré Bistro the pick of the town’s eating options (book in advance)
Shops and Champagne bars in Epernay are often rather touristy
not always boasting top-quality Champagne lists
so head to those run by good producers such as Gosset
Epernay is rather quiet in the evening; if you’re stopping over for the night it’s best to either stay in Reims or pick one of the increasingly refined options in Champagne’s villages
Intrepid visitors can walk or cycle (bike hire is available in Epernay) into the Côte des Blancs or the pretty Coteaux Sud d’Epernay from the town (see our regional profile for tips on the best wineries to seek out).
The spectacuar crayères at Ruinart. Credit: Ruinart / Gregoire Machavoine
Reims itself is home to plenty of Champagne houses, although many of the top names, such as Krug, Louis Roederer and Charles Heidsieck, are not open to the public. The unmissable visits, however, are to the Gallo-Roman chalk cellars to the south of the city (at Taittinger, Ruinart or Pommery). It’s a 35-minute walk to this part of town from Reims city centre, or the 20-minute Line 03 bus from Reims central station (Gare Centre) to bus stop C – Pommery.
There are other destinations in Champagne accessible by train, such as the beautiful medieval city of Troyes in the southern Côte des Bar region, and the Champagne-producing towns of Château-Thierry and Dormans (which both lie in the Marne Valley on the Paris-Epernay route). If you’d like to arrange visits in the Côte des Bar or the Marne Valley, producers may pick you up or arrange taxis from these stations.
Tom’s Ticket Tips. Credit: cruceru cristian / Alamy Stock Photo
If you’re travelling via train between Reims and Epernay, plan for no more than three visits per day (and two if you’d like a leisurely lunch and a walk). Final visits of the day are usually around 5pm. If you get stuck, taxis (including Uber and Bolt) do run in Reims and Epernay, and can be persuaded to reach most of the nearby Champagne villages.
Most producers are on holiday during much of August, and smaller producers will not be able to accept visitors during harvest (usually early to mid-September). Early spring and autumn can be ideal times to visit.
NewsroomNewsCompany infoLeadershipMedia assetsLocation IconMap beacon indicating location switcherSearch iconMagnifying glass indicating a search iconIndia | May 29
2024Introducing Uber Bubbles in FranceWritten byLaureline Serieys
More sharing optionsWith more than 16M visitors expected in France this summer
we’re thrilled to announce the launch of Uber Bubbles – the first ever champagne tour bookable directly in the Uber app
The latest exclusive experience in our ‘Go Anywhere’ series of travel products
offering riders access to one of Europe’s most premium and iconic regions at the tap of a button
In partnership with beloved champagne houses Perrier-Jouët and G.H
Uber Bubbles puts the heart of France’s champagne region at your fingertips
The full day trip includes a 10:00am pickup in Paris in an Uber Bubbles-branded Tesla
with the first stop along the journey a champagne tasting of three cuvées and lunch at Perrier-Jouët’s Cellier Belle Époque in Épernay
Mumm in Reims for a special cellar visit and a Cordon Rouge tasting before heading back to Paris for dropoff in the early evening
“We are thrilled to partner with Uber this summer to offer riders the chance to discover our Champagne Houses via Uber Bubbles,” said François-Xavier Morizot
“This is the perfect opportunity for travelers to enjoy the very best of our ‘bubbly’ experiences
both in Épernay with Maison Perrier-Jouët and in Reims with G.H
Reservations for the summer will become available in the Uber app on June 1
and will be bookable 75 days to 24 hours in advance
Uber Bubbles will run on Fridays and Saturdays throughout the summer
Availability of Uber Bubbles trips is expected to be limited
Riders looking to book a tour are encouraged to book in advance using our Reserve technology
Uber Bubbles will be visible to all riders in Paris
More sharing optionsThe latest Uber newsIndia | Apr 8
With more than 16M visitors expected in France this summer
The latest exclusive experience in our \u2018Go Anywhere\u2019 series of travel products
offering riders access to one of Europe\u2019s most premium and iconic regions at the tap of a button
In partnership with beloved champagne houses Perrier-Jou\u00ebt and G.H
Uber Bubbles puts the heart of France\u2019s champagne region at your fingertips
with the first stop along the journey a champagne tasting of three cuv\u00e9es and lunch at Perrier-Jou\u00ebt\u2019s Cellier Belle \u00c9poque in \u00c9pernay
Mumm in Reims for a special cellar visit and a Cordon Rouge tasting before heading back to Paris for dropoff in the early evening.\u00a0
“We are thrilled to partner with Uber this summer to offer riders the chance to discover our Champagne Houses via Uber Bubbles,” said Fran\u00e7ois-Xavier Morizot
“This is the perfect opportunity for travelers to enjoy the very best of our \u2018bubbly\u2019 experiences
both in \u00c9pernay with Maison Perrier-Jou\u00ebt and in Reims with G.H
The experience will cost a \u20ac200 flat fee
The TimesThe 17th-century monk Dom Pérignon gets the credit for refining champagne’s production
but the bubbly we know and love today sparkles in your flutes thanks to a formidable woman
When her young husband died unexpectedly in 1805 she became the first woman to run a commercial champagne house
an essential piece of kit to ensure that sediment from the production process stays in the neck of the bottle
with the launch of the biopic Widow Clicquot
If its vineyard-filled scenes inspire you to visit the real deal
It’s two and a half hours down the A26 from Calais to historic Reims and Épernay
bars selling endless varieties of fizz and restaurants that match each course with a bubbly
Between them lies a sea of vines in the Montagne de Reims
where independent producers sell top-quality champers from about £16 a bottle
a fraction of the cost of the big-name brands
I can’t stay away from this most delectable area of France — I’ve been visiting champagne houses for 25 years
even spending my 50th there (it’s no coincidence that my nickname is Champagne Jane)
Even if I’m driving back from the south of France I make sure I pass through to pick up a bargain case of fizz from my fournisseur (the delightful French word for “supplier” — mine is Voirin-Jumel in Cramant; more below)
The Lighthouse of Verzenay surrounded by vinesALAMYThere’s plenty to see in Champagne
including a lighthouse surrounded by vines in Verzenay
And let’s not forget the tombs of Dom Pérignon and his fellow monk Dom Thierry Ruinart in the church at pretty Hautvillers
You’ll probably want to see the home of your favourite champagne
but if you’re after those houses offering the most individual experiences
Descend the staircase to the Veuve Clicquot cellars: 15 miles of dark
hushed corridors linking ancient chalk pits that feel like a cathedral to champagne
Barbe-Nicole would stroll through their entirety to get ideas
although visitors today see only a fraction of their length
I’ve visited many champagne houses where they just trot out the fact that three main grape varieties are used in champagne (pinot noir
Here you can sniff the differences with the aid of aromas puffed into the air
The riddling racks you’ll see everywhere in Champagne take on special significance as the guide explains how Barbe-Nicole developed the process of turning the bottles a fraction each day over an eight-week period
gradually tilting the bottle more on its head to trap the sediment
The cellars of Veuve Clicquot champagneFRANCOIS NASCIMBENI/AFP VIA GETTY IMAGESAs you ascend to ground level again
which mark vintage years in the champagne house’s history — Barbe-Nicole is also credited with developing the first vintage champagne
From Veuve Clicquot it’s a ten-minute walk to the impressive blue-turreted château with surrounding vines established by another famous champagne widow
She too played a role in developing the drier fizz we drink today
instructing her cellar master in 1874 to “make sure that it is subtle more than anything else”
She carved her way into champagne history in another way
creating an 11-mile underground labyrinth of cellars linking Gallo-Roman chalk pits where she was anything but subtle — she commissioned enormous chalk reliefs to decorate them
If the visions of Bacchus and his cohorts make your eyes pop
you can blow your mind too with the thought that these impressive cellars hold a drool-inducing 25 million bottles
which you’ll see stacked in dimly lit galleries
There is an 11-mile underground labyrinth of cellars in ReimsALAMYTo complete the picture
modern art installations are dotted around the vaulted chalk pits
Vranken-Pommery likes to keep up with the times
and aims its quarter bottles of Pommery Pop at a younger crowd
gold and blue bottles in the shop after your tour
or a look round the adjacent art nouveau Villa Demoiselle
If you’re on a prosecco budget, try the modern Campanile Reims Centre (room-only doubles from £63; reims-centre-cathedrale.campanile.com).Details Tour and tasting from £40pp (vrankenpommery.com)
Once dubbed the Faubourg de la Folie (“suburb of folly”)
Épernay’s Avenue de Champagne is now a Unesco world heritage centre because of the who’s who of magnificent champagne houses lining the half-mile strip
But for something a little different try Mercier — its more modern exterior belies the unusual experience within: an underground train runs through its 11 miles of galleries
Before heading underground marvel at Eugène Mercier’s propensity for publicity as you circumnavigate the enormous oak barrel that took 24 oxen to pull to the 1889 International Exposition in Paris
The cellars aren’t bland either — as you chug through them in something akin to a theme-park carriage you’ll see bas-reliefs lining the route (spot the scantily clad statue of Miss Mercier holding a glass
Pick between anything from a good-value audio tour to a guided visit to the vineyard and the cellars
Mercier has an underground train for guests to tour its cellarsALAMYFor more fun visit Eugène Mercier’s former headquarters
in the turreted 19th-century château on Avenue de Champagne that is now run by the Comtesse Lafond champagne house
Here you can take in a cellar wall comprising 53,651 bottles
as well as trying sabrage — the art of cutting off the tip of a champagne bottle with a sword
Sabrage and tastings at Comtesse Lafond from £51pp (comtesse-lafond.deladoucette.fr)
• 12 of the finest champagne houses in France
With its half-timbered houses and 15th-century church
the grand cru village of Ay is known for being the birthplace of the French glass designer René Lalique as well as the home of Champagne Bollinger (tour and tasting of five champagnes
with an excellent tour for less than a tenner and great-value fizz to fill your car boot
The owner René Goutorbe’s family has been running the champagne house since the 1940s
and they display the 70-year-old press that was once used
Walk five minutes up the road to Pressoria
an interactive museum in which visitors use all their senses to learn about the champagne-making process
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Patrol Officers with the Northwest Division responded to a shooting at 56 Epernay Circle
Emergency Communications advised officers the caller stated his step mother and dad were deceased downstairs
Officers arrived and discovered Stacy Petty dead from an apparent gunshot along with Nathan Petty dead from an apparent self-inflicted gunshot wound
Officers secured the scene and homicide detectives were notified
the Pulaski County Coroner responded to the scene and transported both bodies to the State Crime Lab for an autopsy
The Crime Scene Search Unit responded shortly after Homicide Detectives
A preliminary investigation began as detectives canvassed the area for witnesses and video surveillance
This investigation is ongoing and occurred in the Northwest Division
To see the incident report, click here
such as the relatively new OneOff line and Epernay
At the 2024 PCA Convention & Trade Show
Illusione showed off the updated look for Epernay
which is the lone Illusione line to still be made at Raíces Cubanas in Honduras
one that uses a swan as an emblem on the box
The bands are larger but keep the gold-on-white color scheme of the original Epernay
The Illusione Epernay Le Voyage, a 9 1/4 x 48 A size, will continue to be the lone vitola sold in coffins, though the coffins are updated to be consistent with the new brand. The Epernay 10th Anniversary d’Aosta also has new packaging
told halfwheel that the company currently has both cigars packaged with the new and old packaging at its Reno warehouse
retailers can place orders and specify which packaging they would like until the old packaging runs out
Epernay’s roots trace back to 2008, when Illusione released the ~eccj~ 15th as part of European Cigar Cult Journal’s 15th anniversary. A year later, that blend reemerged under a new name, Epernay. The name refers to Épernay
Giolito’s recommendation is to pair Illusione Epernay with Champagne
Illusione is releasing some very interesting cigars in the near future (including two new Lanceros with Maduro and Candela wrappers)
one of the most interesting recent releases is the Epernay Le Matin
which includes a few firsts for the company
this vitola is the first (and at the moment
the only) box pressed Illusione on the market
It is also the first Illusione to be sold in boxes of 25 (instead of the usual 50 count boxes for the rest of the Epernay line)
But enough of that, let’s get down to business, shall we?
The cigar itself is a sight to behold. It’s Very attractive, and the extreme box press reminds me quite a bit of a Padrón (and the feel of the construction is quite similar as well). The wrapper is quite smooth, is Darkish Chocolate brown in color and has a very strong scent of leather and pepper.
The First Third starts out with some strong pepper and a flavor of leather. There is a wood undertone as well, along with just a hint of something sweet (honey perhaps?) but there was not enough of it to clarify.
During the Second Third, the cigar started getting noticeably stronger. The profile also got quite a bit more spicy, with some cedar and espresso flavors intertwined, but the sweetness from the first third seemed to have disappeared by this point.
By the start of the Last Third, the Le Matin started getting very stronger and fairly harsh. It almost overwhelmed the rest of the flavors, which remained pretty much the same.
Picture: Getty ImagesBy Matt BraceUpdated April 29
2024Two fans of the fizz embark on a self-guided tour to taste as many cuvees as possible - by bicycle
Finding information about the region is harder than you think but their blog is smart
We drew up a list of five champagne vineyards or "houses" we thought we could hit in two days
Not sorted. By mid-afternoon on the first day we were hopelessly behind schedule, having ticked off just one: Canard-Duchene
where we had a truly excellent cellar tour and tasting
Caught up in the moment and thrilled by the showroom's wall of champagne
bought more glasses from the bar and then two bottles to go
and "accidentally" drank one in a field near a neighbouring vineyard
lying in cool grass under a warm sun and enjoying a heady buzz among the very grapes it is made from
not even the fact that I rested my head on my backpack and caused the camembert inside to spread itself across much of the interior
Eiffel Tower champagne flutes (classy!) and toasted France with every mouthful
You need to book tours at nearly all the champagne houses so I had to call and cancel the ones we had reserved but wouldn't now get to because we were miles away and horizontal in a field
It was a revelation to discover I was better at speaking French after a bottle of champagne than before
We wobbled our e-bikes (ed's note: dear readers
we don't recommend you try this at home - nor France) back along the D26 road to the sleepy train station at Rilly-la-Montagne
with only one of us temporarily transgressing into a ditch
From here we caught the little country train south to Epernay
one of the two commercial centres of Champagne
Picture: Matthew Brace They welcome bikes on the train but you need to pay just a euro or two extra when booking online
They are not so welcoming of bags reeking of camembert
so at Avenay train station I was on my knees on the platform scraping pungent cheese from my backpack
Cleansed - sort of - we headed into town and found a bar called Le 19 Avenue de Champagne
It was established by a collective of 100 smaller champagne makers to showcase their produce and boasts a prodigious collection of lesser-known
It was a thrilling taste discovery: some were subtle
others so full of fruit and bubbles they hit you like a thunderbolt
Day Two dawned dull and misty - outside and inside our heads - but a smorgasbord of homemade croissants
madeleines and pains au chocolat plus gallons of coffee prepared us for another day in the saddle
By late morning we were cruising through the delightful old village of Ay, north-east of Epernay, en route to the Ayala vineyard
gazed over the vineyards from the production-house roof and entered its space-age factory for a generous tasting of four stunning cuvees
From Ayala we cycled part of the Marne Veloroute
a beautiful path that hugs the Marne river and its canal
somewhere near the appropriately named town of Dizy
lay down on the grass embankment and fell asleep
Canard-Duchene: Liberte (Freedom) Tour includes a great cellar tour plus two glasses of champagne for 28 euros ($45) per person
Ayala: Ayala Experience is a 1.5-hour cellar tour, plus tasting of four champagnes for 60 euros per person. See champagne-ayala.fr
Le 19 Avenue de Champagne: This is a fabulous collective champagne bar in Epernay
Ruinart: A Maison Cellars tour for 75 euros per person explores the UNESCO World Heritage-listed chalk cellars (or crayeres) of the oldest champagne producer and ends with a tasting of two signature cuvees: See ruinart.com
Champagne Bouche: This is a smaller, very welcoming house, which began producing wine in 1920 from just one hectare of vines. See champagne-bouche.fr
Getting there: Reims - widely considered to be the unofficial capital of the Champagne wine-growing region - is 144 kilometres north-east of Paris
which is about a one-hour-and-20-minute train journey
The TGV fast train goes from Paris Charles de Gaulle airport to Reims
check out the charming Hostellerie Briqueterie & Spa near Epernay
it blends timeless elegance with modern comforts
Rooms are from 244 euros ($410) per night in August
explore the BnB Epernay apartments and holiday house
See briqueteriechampagne.com; bnbepernay.com
Eating there: Brasserie La Banque in Epernay has a mind-boggling menu of champagnes and serves fabulous food including 37 euro set menus
Explore more: The best website to help plan your visit is bnbepernay.com
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At this week’s 2024 PCA Convention & Trade Show
which the company says will be the first in the new Illusione Limited Release Series and the third different blend for the company’s OneOff brand
the cigar uses a type of tobacco that hasn’t recently been grown in Nicaragua
Illusione has had these bales in aging for three years
It has not disclosed the rest of the blend
A press release calls the cigar “a truly astounding smoking experience
extremely complex and extremely rare.”
The MSRP is set at $16.95 per cigar and production is limited to 1,000 boxes of 10 cigars
Illusione says the cigars should arrive at stores by late April
OneOff was a brand founded in the early 2000s by Andrea Molinari
an entrepreneur who operated a La Casa del Habano store located in Milan
acquired the trademarks from Cuban Crafters
Illusione launched the updated OneOff blend in seven sizes along with OneOff +53
a sub-brand that is now offered in three sizes
which the company describes as a more affordable sister brand to OneOff; like OneOff
Molinari once owned the Allegria trademark
At PCA 2024, Illusione will also show off new packaging for its Epernay line, which will now use a swan as part of its imagery. The blend remains the same and the line will continue to be produced by Raíces Cubanas in Honduras.
with an occasional great if you've chosen a meal in one of the ship's specialty restaurants
The Oceanview Café does an admirable job at providing many options
although we did notice that it's hard to find snacks at certain hours
We do appreciate that Celebrity Solstice has made it easy to stay healthy
through its AquaSpa Cafe -- and easy to indulge if you don't
with the free (and delicious!) pastries at Café al Bacio
Grand Epernay (Decks 3 and 4): The towering
airy Grand Epernay is the ship's main dining room
spanning two decks at the aft end of the ship
and light in tones with ample use of the ship's signature design element: glass
one end of the dining room is accented with a two-story glass wine tower
replete with tall ladders to reach bottles at the highest levels
Surprisingly for a ship with 2,800-plus passengers
this restaurant feels spacious and uncrowded
There is ample room to navigate between tables
combined with extensive carpeting on the floors
lunch (sea days only) and dinner is served at Grand Epernay
with a wait of no more than five minutes for a table
Dinner is served in two conventional sittings (typically 6 and 8:30 p.m.) with assigned tables and tablemates
The Celebrity Select flex-dining option is also available from 5:30 to 9 p.m
passengers have the option to decide whether they want to eat with their own party or at a mixed table with other people
They can also make specific dinner reservations for each day of their cruise online in advance
make reservations onboard or simply show up when they are ready to eat
helpful and friendly and the food is generally consistent
The breakfast menu offers similar dishes to those available at the buffet-style Oceanview Cafe
but the dining experience is more upmarket thanks to the elegant surrounds
It's a particularly lovely option on sea days when there is time to relax over breakfast instead of rushing off to an excursion
cafe fare such as burgers and fish and chips plus hearty dishes such as beef short ribs
with crowd-pleasing desserts such as New York cheesecake
decadent chocolate cake or a selection of ice cream and sorbet
The dinner menu is divided into two sections: "always available" favorites such as Caesar salad
which are available every night and a daily changing menu where the likes of rack of lamb and seafood fettuccini sit comfortably alongside more adventurous dishes like escargot
ask the waiters as their suggestions are usually spot on
Luminae (Deck 3): Only cruisers staying in suite accommodations can dine at Luminae
an intimate restaurant that is open for breakfast
The space is elegant yet contemporary with decor that ties in with the onboard "sun" theme
Large picture windows lend an appealing shimmer to the restaurant's gold and chrome design accents
and two separate rooms create a refined atmosphere
Dishes are several steps above the main dining room visually
but not quite equal to what is on offer in the ship's excellent specialty restaurants (although there's a daily selection of menu items designed by Michelin-starred chef Daniel Boulud)
Service is superb and Luminae never feels busy
Breakfast includes staples such as omelets and pancakes along with a few surprises like huevos rancheros
a tasty Mexican breakfast dish and a creamy yogurt granola parfait
Espresso-style coffee is complimentary but not comparable to what is on offer at the for-fee coffee lounge on Deck 5
on sea days and includes a choice of appetizers
sandwiches and entrees and a couple of desserts
Dinner includes a changing daily menu plus the option to order from the main dining room menu
Meals begin with an amuse-bouche compliments of the chef followed by appetizers including roasted squab
beef tartar and lobster salad with hearts of palm
Mains consist of pappardelle with venison ragout
ricotta cavatelli with duck Bolognese and Thai green vegetable curry
Serving sizes are sensible to allow room for desserts such as mascarpone cheesecake with pistachio nougatine and rich dark chocolate mousse
Blu (Deck 5): Passengers who have booked AquaClass cabins can eat at Blu
a private restaurant serving lighter "spa-inspired" fare
which relies less on rich sauces and sauteing and more on natural reductions
Breakfast includes a variety of healthy starters such as a low-fat yogurt parfait with blueberry compote or bowl of crunchy muesli
Hot dishes range from berry pecan pancakes and French toast to a smoked salmon and asparagus frittata
Blu features a similar dinner menu to Grand Epernay with a choice of three appetizers
four main entrees and three classic grilled meat dishes
While some meals are similar to those served in the main dining room
Tables for two are very close together and therefore best suited to couples who enjoy socializing more than romantic tete-a-tetes
AquaClass passengers do not have to pay extra to dine here
and suite passengers may book tables on a space-available basis
The restaurant is off limits to all other passengers
Oceanview Cafe (Deck 14): Oceanview Cafe is a multi-station buffet for breakfast and lunch
and an open-seating casual alternative venue for dinner
with many serving and prep stations situated as islands in the middle of the room rather than stretched along the walls
The result is a generally spacious operation offering an extensive number of choices
There are conventional choices such as British (bangers
baked beans) and Asian (miso soup with mix-ins
freshly tossed pasta dishes with carved meat stations rounding out the mix
While the main area of Oceanview Cafe does close for (very) short periods throughout the day so staff can set up the next meal service
pasta and ice cream are available from noon to 1 a.m.
tea and juices are available 24/7 from self-serve dispensers
The standard breakfast selections don't change (omelet station
pastries and breads) but there is more than enough variety to satisfy even the most demanding diner
Lunch features one changing "Chef's Choice" station (primarily a carving station for ham
salad and other specialty options that change from day to day
Sandwich choices include hot (corned beef) or cold (turkey
Live cooking stations featuring customized pasta choices with a selection of sauces (Bolognese
Alfredo) and made-to-order stir-fries featuring meat
spices and sliced vegetables are also on offer
The salad bar is available daily and offers a tremendous array of choices
Drink service is speedy and tables are generously spaced
which -- combined with floor-to-ceiling windows -- give a relaxed
located on the same deck as Oceanview Cafe
provides healthy and convenient breakfast options -- such as granola and fruit - and salads and made-to-order dishes like grilled salmon for lunch
Room Service: Room service is available 24/7
Continental breakfast is free and can be ordered via a door-hung card put out the night before
All other orders have a hefty $9.95 per order charge
Suite guests are entitled to complimentary room service 24 hours a day
Deck 5 is the epicenter for specialty dining on Celebrity Solstice
box-like room with an innovative audio-visual art installation -- is the entryway into the Ensemble Lounge
convivial watering hole ideal for pre-dinner drinks
In one of the best pieces of interior architecture we've seen on any ship
Ensemble forms a nexus from which four specialty restaurants -- Blu
Silk Harvest (which houses Petit Chef and is not an Asian Restaurant) and Tuscan Grille -- fan out like spokes of a wheel
Keep an eye out for discounts on embarkation day when specialties tend to be quiet; otherwise bookings are essential for most venues
You can also save money by buying specialty dining packages
although they are also available the first few days of your cruise
tends to fill up very early during each cruise
Specialty restaurants open for lunch occasionally on sea days
Murano (Deck 5); $$$$: Murano is rich and decadent
with traditional French dishes such as foie gras
creamy bisques and a cheese course sitting alongside contemporary interpretations of classic meals
You can make two choices here -- a six-course tasting menu
meat course and dessert or a less expensive a la carte option
You can also have the option to take the tasting menu with wine pairings for an extra charge
Consummate service and dishes such as cognac flambeed lobster tail with basil
smoked bacon and Dijon-cream add a hint of theater to this exceptional dining experience
Tuscan Grille (Deck 5) $$$: A prime aft location ensures this stylish yet charmingly rustic restaurant is a popular choice
especially when the ship is at sea or anchored in picturesque South Pacific ports
though pasta-lovers have plenty of options
spaghetti Bolognese and lobster linguine Alfredo
It is best to dine early so you can enjoy the view before the sun goes down
Cafe al Bacio (Deck 5); $ a la carte: Coffee lovers can get their caffeine fix at Cafe al Bacio & Gelateria
which also offers gelato and Italian ices at an adjoining stand
Cakes and other goodies in the refrigerated cabinet change throughout the day and are free
elegant decor and some of the best coffee on the high seas
patrons must be prepared to pounce on empty seats at this popular cafe
Sushi on 5 (Deck 5); $$ a la carte: Passengers can choose from a variety of rolls
Selections include a bowl of edamame to snack on
Le Petit Chef (Deck 5); $$$$: Le Petit Chef is an immersive dining experience rather than a restaurant
It blends gourmet food with entertainment and storytelling that includes 3D projections and elaborate table settings
This is one of the most unique dining options -- and the most pricey -- on Celebrity Solstice and caters to adults and children alike
They don't make cruise ship specialty restaurants like Murano as much anymore
and dinner here is a lovely trip back into a time when tableside preparations and flambe desserts ruled the seas
we made Café al Bacio our routine morning stop for lattes
your server will ask if you have dietary restrictions or allergies
Our eagle-eyed waiter in the main dining room kept our plus-one from anything that would trigger her seafood allergy
Vegetarian and healthier options are identified on the menu
The buffet has areas that are marked for vegans and gluten free diners
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The champagne houses of Épernay and Rheims produce some of the finest fizz in the world
You would too if you were sitting in stylish lodgings sipping a glass of grand cru minutes away from a prestigious address
The mile-long avenue is lined with expensive champagne houses
I’m indulging my champagne taste on a prosecco budget
It’s from a half bottle I picked up at the independent producer Mouligneaux-Gourdain for €10 (£8.70)
As for the apartment, it’s one of four in a building under the Bubble 8 name
each beautifully done up with the feel of a boutique hotel
with a full kitchenette allowing you to self cater on the cheap
A three-hour drive from the Channel tunnel
Bubble 8 is a great place for me to stay with my son Christian
who has just turned 18 and is keen to dive into the world of fizz
View image in fullscreenBubble 8 self-catering apartments and studios. Photograph: Franck Kauff/PRAnother fine place to stay is Le Logis aux Bulles (€90 a night B&B) in Verzy
which has three beautifully decorated B&B rooms
offers a tour and tasting (€7) and sells Mouligneaux-Gourdain grand cru
There’s no better place to start than the pretty village of Hautvillers
less than 15 minutes away from Épernay by car
It was here in the hillside abbey that the 17th-century cellar master Dom Pérignon supposedly cried out to his fellow monks: “Come quickly brothers
I am tasting the stars.” He might not have invented champagne
By now we’re ready for a tour and tasting at one of the big champagne houses and their labyrinthine cellarsWe pay homage to both their tombs in the quaint church before visiting the local producer G Tribaut
I could have sat in the tasting room for hours gazing through the floor-to-ceiling windows at the sea of pinstripe vines
if you buy six bottles you get three samples free
particularly as the least expensive comes in at €20.10
You can taste other independent producers’ wares at the wine bar Au 36 (€21 for three glasses) in Rue Dom Pérignon
where boxes of six bottles are sold at the same price charged at the vineyards
My tip would be to avoid Au 36’s expensive dishes and pick up a sandwich or quiche at the bakery and take it to the picnic spot beyond the abbey
By now we’re ready for a tour and tasting at one of the big champagne houses
which offer a good introduction to the champagne-making process in their labyrinthine cellars
and on past trips I’ve visited many in Épernay and Rheims
We gape at the scale of the half-mile Peking gallery and the scantily clad statue of Miss Mercier holding a glassNot far from the basilica is Vranken-Pommery, which has started good-value self guided tours (€26 with tasting)
While you don’t get the same explanation as at Mumm
it’s worth going to see the enormous chalk mines quarried by the Romans
which Madame Pommery used in her own sprawling cellars
Near the station, the area around Rheims’ Les Halles du Boulingrin market is the spot to find somewhere to mop up the champagne. I’ve eaten before at Le Bocal with its selection of small seafood plates for under €10
so this time we settle down to generous cheese and meat platters at Cheese Bar for €12pp before taking the train home
View image in fullscreenMercier champagne house in Épernay. Photograph: David Doyle/AlamyBack in Épernay, Mercier offers the best-value tours (from €20)
with its underground train ride chugging through some of its 11 miles of cellars
We gape at the scale of the galleries and admire the statue of Blanche Mercier – the daughter of founder Eugène – holding a glass
pop in to see the enormous oak barrel in the lobby that needed 24 oxen to pull it to the 1889 International Exposition in Paris
There are a couple of decent places to line our stomachs not far from the flat; Café le Progrès serves steak and chips for €17, while an excellent three-course dinner at the Cave à Champagne is just €27
And you’re not short of places to drink: you can enjoy the poshest bar crawl in the world along the Avenue de Champagne
where most champagne houses offer glasses for about €8
To get good-value fizz to fill the car boot, though, you need to drag yourself away from this compelling street. A 10-minute drive away is the grand cru village of Aÿ, and Champagne H Goutorbe, with its superb tours and tasting for just €10
storage vats and rows of bottles in the cellars with Madame Goutorbe
whose husband’s family has been making champagne since the 1940s while their vine-grafting business dates to 1918
Their Brut tradition (€21.50 a bottle) comes in at the even cheaper rate of €19.50 if you buy six
View image in fullscreenThe grand cru village of Aÿ. Photograph: Hemis/AlamyAnother grand cru village, Cramant, 15 minutes from Épernay, has long featured on any trip I make to the region, because it’s home to Voirin Jumel
Their delicious brut costs €21.50 a bottle
and should you want to make full use of their wine bar or tasting classes
they also have pleasant (though quite small) B&B rooms from €74
There’s one thing worth splashing out for on this trip
the art of cutting off the tip of the champagne bottle with a sword
And so up the Avenue de Champagne we go one last time, to Comtesse Lafond’s turreted chateau to try sabrage. Lafond offers this with three tastings for €60
in the atmospheric cellar with its wall of 53,651 bottles
outside the impressive 19th-century chateau
there’s a satisfying pop as the gas escapes from the sliced-off bottle top
The trip was provided by Marne’s agency for tourism and by Eurotunnel
The Little Rock Police Department has identified two people found dead Monday night after what authorities called a “domestic incident.”
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shortly after graduating from UA Little Rock with degrees in journalism and English
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ShareSaveLifestyleThe Best Wine Shops in Reims in Champagne (and Epernay Bonus)ByPer and Britt Karlsson
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
Britt & Per Karlsson write on wine and wine travel
01:07pm EDTShareSaveThis article is more than 9 years old.The best place to buy champagne when you are in Champagne is of course at the producers’
And preferably at the small independent growers who typically make more exciting and individual champagnes than the internationally well-known big-and-famous brands
why travel all the way to Champagne and then buy the same bottles that you can find at home or in any duty-free?) But to do that you have to get out into the vineyards
What if you don’t have the opportunity to do so
Or if you want to extend your collection with even more different champagnes
guiding one of our wine tours of the Champagne region
I made a point of visiting all the wine shops in the city
here is a guide to the best places in Reims
in many wine districts it is not so easy to find good wine shops
the shops in the best locations are filled with less than exciting mass-market wines
Reims is the city that you will most likely arrive in when you come to visit Champagne
It is by far the biggest city of the Champagne region
Shopping hours are typically 10 AM to 7 PM (sometimes 7.30 PM or later
sometimes with a break for lunch – call and check)
here are our recommendations for wine shops in Reims:
18 rue Colbert, Reims, phone 03 26 36 21 16, www.cave-colbert.com
Possibly the best champagne shop in the city
A wide range of both big-brand / house champagnes as well as growers’ champagnes
The shop is run by a champagne enthusiast who will give you plenty of good advice
Cave Colbert wine shop champagnes in Reims
Small and cramped shop just behind the cathedral but with a good selection
7 Place du Cardinal Luçon, Reims, ph 03 26 47 35 89, www.cavedessacres.com
Right in front of the Cathedral (there are two wine shops in front of it so take care)
It is a bit like walking into a wine cellar that someone is just in the process of organising and moving
even has some mixed tasting cases and half bottles (in case you need…)
This small shop is very centrally located on the Place d’Erlon
the wide pedestrian avenue between the train station and the Cathedral
Although very small it has a decent selection of wines
7 Rue Courmeaux, Reims, ph 03 26 03 45 29, epicerie.blog.lemonde.fr
This is actually a delicatessen shop focussing on organic products
Run by people who are passionate about what they do
But they also have a small but very good selection of champagnes
to 8 PM normally but sometimes even later if they have guests (they also serve food)
Au Bon Manger delicatessen and wine shop in Reims
2 Rue Olivier Métra, Reims, ph 03 26 48 28 42, www.boutique-tresors-champagne.com
This is a brand new shop and tasting room co-owned by some thirty members in the producer organisation called Trésors de Champagne
All members are individual producers making so-called grower’s champagne
I can’t claim that I know them all but those that I have tasted have been very interesting
They also have a small selection that you can taste by the glass that changes each week
They only sell their members' champagnes
Les Tresors de Champagne wine shop in Reims
They can also organise tastings for groups
The location is a bit off centre (but still walking distance) but worth exploring
This is now somewhat of a centre for the restaurant buzz
since Place d’Erlon (that used to be the place to go and is more central) is today more of a fast-food ghetto
Edit: One more shop has been recommended to me
but I don't really know it: Les Caves du Forum on 10 rue Courmeaux
It certainly looks interesting from what I have seen about it
And if you are in Champagne but not in Reims
Here are four bonus wine shop suggestions for Epernay:
opened in 1952 and still there last time I checked
hides billions of dollars’ worth of bottles (and history) underneath it
What would you suppose is the most prosperous street in the world
A strong contender for the title is about 88 miles east of the French capital
in the historic town of Épernay—epicenter of the sparkling wine universe
Bounding its northern edge is the Avenue de Champagne
a mile-long thoroughfare lined with palatial mansions behind wrought iron gates
The real value of this boulevard is hidden below ground
where over 200 million subterranean bottles of bubbly are stored in the dark
The cellars of champagne: In addition to several billion dollars’ worth of product
these labyrinthine corridors hold their fare share of history
Long before there were grapes—or humans—in the region
an ocean covered what is now northeastern France
leaving behind a former seabed rich in limestone and sandstone
this chalky soil is ideal for growing vines
The first to dig under the earth in Épernay was Claude Moët
founder of the maison that now bears his name (Moët & Chandon)
It wasn’t that he needed extra space; the traditional method of champagne production
when it was discovered that at a depth of at least 10 meters
temperature and humidity remained optimally consistent throughout the year
The project expanded in 1793 under Claude’s grandson
Maison Moët was the sole champagne house along the Avenue de Champagne
It was a strategic placement: the street followed the main royal access road connecting Paris to Strasbourg and onward to the German border
“It was positioned front and center at the crossroad of France’s history,” explains Veronique Foureur
It’s the road that carried Louis XVI in 1791 as he fled the capital during the French Revolution
It’s the same path that Napoleon traversed on his way to battling in Poland and Russia
Napoleon paid Jean-Rémy Moët a first visit
enjoying a tour of the cellars,” says Foureur
the emperor stopped in Épernay several more times during his eastward military campaigns
the room where they first met still holds bottles of wine and a marble plaque commemorating the meeting
Napoleon visiting Jean-Rémy Moët on July 26
Auspicious meetings above the surface were paving the way for prosperity below street level
It wasn’t just that Napoleon had developed a personal reverence for champagne
He helped spread it throughout his expanding empire
part of why the celebratory drink is poured to this day
It’s also why champagne makers of the time kept digging: They needed more space to age a product with skyrocketing appeal
Soon joined by half a dozen more maisons along the avenue
Moët expanded its underground footprint to cover three levels ranging from 10 to 30 meters below the earth
invading armies passed through the town in the emperor’s wake,” Foureur says
Jean-Rémy Moët sacrificed the stock of his cellars
using the space to cache military resources (food
he was awarded the Legion of Honor later that year—for his efforts in saving Épernay and for bringing “distinction to France with the excellence of his champagne,” as the merit decreed
Napoleon visiting the Moët & Chandon cellars with Jean-Rémy Moët
It wouldn’t be the last time champagne provided refuge
The town’s tunnels became increasingly useful as modern warfare evolved
“The underground cellars represented an invaluable shelter for the people of Épernay during both World Wars,” says Foureur
invading forces from Germany gained access to the cellars and took over 25,000 bottles worth of champagne in less than a week
who had acquired a taste for the effervescent wine
instructed his soldiers to pilfer the cellars
“The [bottle] withdrawals of the German force had become so remarkable,” says Foureur
“that Moët & Chandon was rumored to have walled off parts the cellars hiding some champagne bottles from being stolen.” It appears to have worked: A tour of the oldest parts of the tunnels today reveals an unbroken lineage of vintages dating back to the late 19th century
Is that distant pitter-patter merely moisture dripping from the arched-earth ceiling
Or is it the spirit of a fallen soldier from Napoleon’s Grande Armée
an inexplicable fire swept through the dank layers beneath Moët & Chandon
Not a soul was there to start the conflagration and candles hadn’t been used in the tunnels for 30 years
One thing we do know is that the eight maisons now along the Avenue de Champagne maintain a combined total of more than 60 miles of cellar snaking below
Wine worth some $2 billion ages there quietly
Dig deep and the most expensive street in the world offers all sorts of historical riches
No journey to Épernay is complete without a descent to marvel at the bottles as they age to perfection
Most of the major maisons now open their cellars to daily tours: Here’s a list of the tastiest
Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage Tour
The granddaddy of them all is this 90-minute ramble through the dimly-lit caverns beneath the Avenue de Champagne
You’ll walk past literally millions of bottles
You’ll even get to sample some of the goods after familiarizing yourself with the famed méthode champenoise
Champagne Comtesse Lafond Sabrage Experience
Although not as physically expansive as some of its competitors
twin-spired chateau directly along the Avenue de Champagne
Book the Sabrage Experience to enjoy quality cellar time here
hauntings and how to use a sword to open a bottle of bubbly
Sabering is a skill that everyone should possess
Mercier Champagne Cellar Visit
Mercier is the only cellar providing an actual ride through its cellars
it’s Willy Wonka for wine geeks but no less immersive
you’ll see more of the 11 miles of aging tunnels than you ever could by foot
“[Visitors] appreciate the amazing contrast between our traditional heritage and the originality of touring the cellars in a little train,” says chef de cave Christophe Bonnefond
Champagne Boizel “Joyau de France” Tour
This fifth-generation family of champagne makers dates back to 1834
Its cellar still hold bottles from that era
The tour expands upon the lengthy history of the region and how it earned its status as a UNESCO World Heritage site
Drink it all in with a tasting of two early 2000s vintages
>>Next: Six Overlooked but Superb French Wine Regions Worth Exploring
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In the latest edition of what are we celebrating today?
it’s the 10th anniversary of Illusione’s Epernay line
Epernay was released in 2009 as an extension to the Illusione ~eccj~
a cigar that was released in 2008 in celebration of another anniversary
the 15th anniversary of the magazine European Cigar Cult Journal
which has since changed its name to Cigar Journal
It was a 5 5/8 x 46 corona gorda that was a limited edition release
The Epernay was created as a lighter version of ~eccj~
and one that would be ideal to pair with Champagne
Epernay was a regular production offering while the ~eccj~
the 10th Anniversary d’Aosta is a Nicaraguan puro made at the Raíces Cubanas factory in Danlí
Dion Giolito has not indicated what the blend is or what the differences are between this cigar and the regular production versions
But what he did share was the inspiration for the name d’Aosta
I have a significant amount of family still living in Northern Italy – Rivoli
Turin and Valle d’Aosta… Valle d’Aosta is just on the other side of the Monte Bianco tunnel
A few years back on my trip to visit family
we went through the tunnel to Geneva and visited the original Davidoff store
I imagined that Zino Davidoff back in the day
came through and visited the Alpine towns on the Italian side of the border
enjoyed some of the wine that Aosta is famous for – the Fumin and Cornalin grapes
It was this that was the eventual inspiration for my Epernay 10 anniversary
to make a cigar in the style that he liked that made him so famous
If there’s one thing I feel compelled to knock about the Illusione Epernay 10th Anniversary d’Aosta
it’s that is comes in the ubiquitous 6 x 50 toro vitola
I have come to grow tired of seeing as the default option for single vitola releases
The cigar has a graham cracker colored wrapper
and while veins could be described as plentiful
The wrapper feels like it has more oils than a visual inspection would suggest
It is firm but feels and looks to have been rolled quite well
with noticeably well-constructed heads on each cigar
The foot of the cigar has a mild sweetness to it but isn’t forthcoming with much else
wood and pepper can be coaxed out at times
The cold draw on all three samples is on the firm side and has a bit of a popcorn flavor up first
with just a bit of toffee sweetness behind
leading me to think of something between kettle and caramel corn
There’s a bit more of a pronounced sweetness on the lips
I’m surprised that the first profile I get from the Illusione Epernay 10th Anniversary d’Aosta is pepper-forward and that it’s not sweeter
something that seems a bit off from the billing of this cigar being a lighter profile
The sweetness comes along fairly quickly but also subtlety by way of a condensed milk creaminess
The early puffs put the cigar at medium in flavor intensity and medium-minus in strength
the latter of which I’ve long identified with the Epernay blend as it has been a lighter profile than the rest of the Illusione portfolio
the profile dries a bit and the pepper becomes a bit more central in the profile
with a dry wood note rounding it out and most of the sweetness falling away
Retrohales don’t lose that sweetness though
picking up a subtle fruit sweetness that pairs well with the rebalanced white pepper
and which complements the flavors the palate is getting quite well
The technical performance has been very good so far with nothing of issue
I find myself retrohaling quite frequently at the start of the second third as there is a bit of effervescence to the smoke that does remind me of what I would get from a quality Champagne
It’s not something that occurs in all three samples
but when it does it is a huge plus for the experience
The onset of the second third also sees the Illusione Epernay 10th Anniversary d’Aosta open up a bit as far as airflow and draw
which helps give the cigar more mouthfeel and a bigger overall presence without necessarily having to get stronger or more peppery
After that build-up of the body of the smoke
it begins a bit of a descent around the midpoint
shedding some of the creaminess and bringing in just a bit of orange zest
which when experienced via a retrohale gives a bit of a flamed orange sensation thanks to more black pepper and a bit of heat
The technical performance remains outstanding
with the cigar putting off a small wisp of smoke even while resting
The final third of the Illusione Epernay 10th Anniversary d’Aosta opens with a bit of nuttiness
more the kind of flavor you’d find added to coffee creamer as opposed to reaching into a bag of mixed nuts
though that latter experience does occur from time to time
The creaminess is back just before the band needs to come off
and not only is it much more substantial than it was earlier
there is a bit of an orange marmalade spin to it that is quite enjoyable
the cigar begins a fairly rapid progression of flavor
picking up a campfire aroma before the flavor gets just a bit smoky while remaining very pleasant
with pepper flitting in and out of the profile at seemingly choreographed precision to accent the profile when it would most benefit from it
burn line and smoke production all remain very good until its finally time to put the cigar in the ashtray
there are few things more enjoyable than when a Dion Giolito creation is truly on
which I'm happy to report the Illusione Epernay 10th Anniversary d'Aosta is
As has generally been the case with the Epernay line
the profile is a bit on the lighter side but don't let that lure you into thinking that this is another cigar competing for the title of not your father's Connecticut
the blend offers a good bit of pepper before beginning a near symphonic journey that weaves creaminess
pepper and a number of other supporting flavors together remarkably well
The technical performance is on par as well
making for a truly special cigar that somehow comes with a fairly reasonable price tag
A very enjoyable cigar that performs well now and shows the potential to further develop with time
I strive to capture the essence of a cigar and the people behind them in my work – every cigar you light up is the culmination of the work of countless people and often represents generations of struggle and stories
it’s about so much more than the cigar – it’s about the story behind it
the experience of enjoying the work of artisans and the way that a good cigar can bring people together
I’m the public address announcer for the Colorado Rockies and Arizona Diamondbacks during spring training
as well as for the Salt River Rafters of the Arizona Fall League
and previously the Arizona Rattlers of the Indoor Football League
I also work in a number of roles for Major League Baseball
I covered the Phoenix and national cigar scene for Examiner.com
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The Champagne expert and author reveals his personal list of favorite spots to explore for an authentic taste of the region
Here’s my advice for making the most of a quick weekend in Champagne
Spend it hunting hard-to-find bottles in dusty wineshops
eating oysters with wines from grower-producers
or visiting a centuries-old château with the best Champagne program in the world
the Champagne region is just a 45-minute train ride by TGV to Reims
or a 1.5-hour ride by local train to Epernay
there’s even a TGV that goes directly from Charles de Gaulle Airport to the Champagne-Ardenne station
While the major houses in Reims and Epernay are easily accessible on foot or by taxi
you’ll want to rent a car if you’ll be exploring more of the region
In and around Reims, L’Assiette Champenoise is the most luxurious place to stay
Arnaud Lallement is currently Champagne’s only chef with three Michelin stars
and his attention to detail and relentless pursuit of quality creates Champagne’s most sophisticated and inventive dining experience
Les Crayères
located in a lush and sprawling park within Reims itself
housed in an ornate château that formerly belonged to the de Polignac family of Champagne Pommery
The Michelin two-star restaurant is headed by chef Philippe Mille
who creates refined interpretations of classical French cuisine
while head sommelier Philippe Jamesse presides over the greatest wine list in the Champagne region
Among other hotels in the city, one of the most popular with wine professionals is the Hotel de la Paix
superbly located in the center of town near the lively Place d’Erlon
with a bar that pours a wide range of Champagne until the wee hours of the morning
If you’re visiting a lot of Champagne producers, you may find it more convenient to stay in Epernay, about a half hour’s drive to the south of Reims. It is more centrally located in terms of the vineyard area, making producer visits more convenient. While there are many hotels in town, a pleasant alternative is Parva Domus
a small and charming bed-and-breakfast located on the celebrated Avenue de Champagne near the houses of Pol Roger and Perrier-Jouët
and from here it’s just a short drive up the hill to the village of Hautvillers and its famous abbey
For a luxury experience, Les Sources de Caudalie will be opening in the fall of 2017
and spa in the same spirit as the original establishment at Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux
It will be located at the top of the hill in the village of Champillon
with panoramic views over Epernay and the surrounding vineyard area
One of the region’s best wine stores is 520 in Epernay
which has one of the most extensive selections of Champagne in the world
Proprietor Pierre-Yves Cainjo has his finger firmly on the pulse of the Champagne region
and this is an excellent place to discover growers that you may never have heard of before
In Reims the most impressive wine store is Les Caves du Forum
in an underground cellar below the Place du Forum
Owner Fabrice Parizot has a keen interest not only in Champagne but in wines from around the world
and while his grower-focused selection of Champagne is excellent
you’ll also find an extensive and thoughtfully chosen array of wines from elsewhere in France and beyond
Clearly, Champagne is more famous for its wine than its food, but there are opportunities to eat and drink well, even apart from the culinary temples of L’Assiette Champenoise and Les Crayères. An excellent place to pick up lunch in Reims is L’Epicerie au Bon Manger
where owners Aline and Eric Serva have assembled an almost obsessively curated collection of France’s finest delicacies
from cheeses to charcuterie to preserved foods
Choose from a collection of Champagne with a strongly natural slant
and then buy bottles and foodstuffs to take on the road with you
Behind the city’s best fishmonger is Le Bocal
a tiny restaurant with an outstanding array of oysters from farmers such as David Hervé
Other fruits de mer and dishes such as grilled lobster and sole are also excellent
and there’s a small but carefully selected list of good Champagne
If you’re craving a burger with your Champagne, head to Sacré Burger, which originated as a food truck but now has its own space near the Place du Forum. The burgers aren’t as good at The Glue Pot
but this is nevertheless one of the best places in the city to drink
featuring many of the finest growers in Champagne as well as other wine regions of France
Another place not to miss in Reims is Racine
where chef Kazuyuki Tanaka crafts exquisitely elegant dishes that combine classical French training with a quietly Japanese sensibility
Book well in advance here as it fills up quickly
Undoubtedly the best restaurant in the Epernay area, and the best restaurant in Champagne outside Reims, is Les Avisés
While it’s not guaranteed that Selosse’s Champagnes will be available
the wine list is extensive and reasonably priced
providing a fine complement to chef Stéphane Rossillon’s contemporary French cuisine
The best wine bar in Reims is Le Wine Bar by Le Vintage
a convivial place on the Place du Forum boasting a list of 500 wines from Champagne and elsewhere
and fun; its list is full of wines from outside the Champagne region as well
where you can work off those Champagne calories on a range of ropes courses and ziplines of various difficulty levels
While you’re there, stop by Les Faux de Verzy
a bizarre formation of dwarf trees (mostly beech
but some oak and chestnut) that grow in twisted
a phenomenon known to exist in only a handful of places in the world
Reims is home to a number of important cultural treasures, most notably the magnificent thirteenth-century cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims
where the kings of France were traditionally crowned—don’t miss the stained-glass windows by Marc Chagall in the chevet
as well as the windows in the south transept that depict the region’s winemaking villages
Next door, too, is the Palais du Tau
the former palace of the Archbishop of Reims and the site of the coronation banquets: today it houses a museum of artifacts relating to both the cathedral and the monarchy
Less well known but also worth visiting is the Foujita Chapel
designed by the Japanese artist Tsuguharu Foujita and recognized today as a historic monument of France
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Two decades ago, Bordeaux vineyards were virtually closed to tourism; now, it’s one of the world’s premier wine destinations. What changed?
Linking distilleries, wineries, and breweries in a tourist-friendly map or trail raises the bottom line for the producers involved, but also gives local economies a much-needed boost
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Our guide to enjoying Champagne in its native land
Nothing beats a glass of Champagne in France, whether in Épernay, Reims or Paris. Get our guide to enjoying the French sparkling wine in its native land, with our top picks in hotels, restaurants and must-visit maisons.
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The property encompasses sites where the method of producing sparkling wines was developed on the principle of secondary fermentation in the bottle since the early 17th century to its early industrialization in the 19th century
The property is made up of three distinct ensembles: the historic vineyards of Hautvillers
and the Avenue de Champagne and Fort Chabrol in Epernay
These three components – the supply basin formed by the historic hillsides
the production sites (with their underground cellars) and the sales and distribution centres (the Champagne Houses) - illustrate the entire champagne production process
The property bears clear testimony to the development of a very specialized artisan activity that has become an agro-industrial enterprise
Il s’agit des lieux où fut développée la méthode d’élaboration des vins effervescents
grâce à la seconde fermentation en bouteille
depuis ses débuts au XVIIe siècle jusqu'à son industrialisation précoce au XIXe siècle
Le bien se compose de trois ensembles distincts : les vignobles historiques d’Hautvillers
la colline Saint-Nicaise à Reims et l’avenue de Champagne et le Fort Chabrol à Epernay
Ces trois ensembles –soit le bassin d’approvisionnement que forment les coteaux historiques
les unités de production (les caves souterraines) et les espaces de commercialisation (les maisons de Champagne)- reflètent la totalité du processus de production de champagne
Le bien illustre clairement comment cette production a évolué d’une activité artisanale très spécialisée à une entreprise agro-industrielle
Dit werelderfgoed omvat locaties waar de methode van het produceren van mousserende wijnen werd ontwikkeld
gebaseerd op het principe van nagisting op de fles
sinds het begin van de 17e eeuw tot de vroege industrialisering in de 19e eeuw
Het erfgoed bestaat uit drie verschillende ensembles: de historische wijngaarden van Hautvilliers
en de Avenue de Champagne en Fort Chabrol in Epernay
Deze drie componenten – het leveringsgebied op de historische heuvels
de productielocaties (met hun ondergrondse kelders) en de verkoop- en distributiecentra (de Champagne Huizen) – illustreren het volledige champagneproductieproces
Dit erfgoed getuigt van de ontwikkeling van een zeer gespecialiseerde ambachtelijke activiteit naar een vorm van agro-industrie
Houses and Cellars form a very specific agro-industrial landscape
with the vineyards as the supply basin and villages and urban districts concentrating the production and trading functions
The imperatives of Champagne wine production have resulted in an original
prestigious architecture and an underground heritage
which has structured not only the landscape but also the local economy and daily life
is the outcome of a long process of development
and industrial and commercial transformations
which speeded up the transition from an artisanal crop to mass production of a product sold around the world
Women and the Franco-German heirs of the old Champagne fairs played a special role in this evolution
to Saint-Nicaise Hill in Reims and to Avenue de Champagne in Épernay
which were entirely built on the wine-growing activity of Champagne
The three ensembles that make up the property embody the Champagne terroir and serve as a living and a working environment and a showcase for traditional know-how
Patronage has also been a source of social innovation
the greatest emblem of which is the Chemin Vert garden city in Reims
This is the place where the benchmark method of producing sparkling wine was born
a method that would spread and be copied across the world from the 19th century up to the present day
renowned as the universal symbol of festiveness
Houses and Cellars are the outcome of expertise perfected over the generations
of exemplary inter-professional organisation and of the protection of the appellation
as well as the development of inter-cultural relations and social innovations over a long period of time
Through the development of traditional know-how
the people of Champagne have overcome a number of obstacles
both in the vineyards (a harsh climate and rather infertile chalky soils)
through their mastery of sparkling wine production techniques
Champagne enterprise was able to gain from the technological and entrepreneurial contributions of the British and Germans
The equilibrium between wine-growers and the Champagne Houses led to the development of a pioneering inter-professional structure that is still active today
Criterion (iv): As the legacy of wine-growing and wine-making practices perfected over the centuries
production in Champagne is founded on its supply basin (the vineyards)
and the cellars) and its sales and distribution centres (the headquarters of the Houses)
They are functionally intertwined and intrinsically linked to the chalky substratum where the vines grow
which is easy to hollow out and which is also found in the architecture
The production process specific to Champagne
based on secondary fermentation in the bottle
the use of the former Gallo-Roman and medieval chalk quarries
and the digging of suitable cellars in Épernay or on the hillsides
led to the formation of an exceptional underground landscape – the hidden side of Champagne
As Champagne has been exported around the world since the 18th century
trade development resulted in a special kind of town planning
which integrated functional and showcasing goals: new districts were built around production and sale centres
linked to the vineyards and to transport routes
with its monumental quarry-cellars and its early Champagne Houses
with the showcasing spaces of the commerce houses
convey in an outstanding manner the unique and world-renowned image of Champagne as a symbol of the French art of living
of reconciliation and victory (particularly in sport)
photography and even comics all testify to the influence and the constancy of this unique wine's image
The property includes the most representative and best preserved elements
through symbiotic functional and territorial organisation
The entire property has recovered from wars
the phylloxera crisis and the wine-growers’ revolts
limited by the topography and high value of the vineyards
remain well preserved within their original limits
Landscape and plots have changed very little and the built heritage is still in good condition
Although it was bombarded during the First World War
Saint-Nicaise Hill was restored and has maintained its function
The chalk quarries are still used in Champagne production and the network of cellars is well preserved and still perfectly operational
Long-term safeguarding of the visual integrity of the property requires monitoring of large energy installations; whilst functional integrity may benefit from a program to restore bio-diversity
which may also contribute to Champagne specificity
written and iconographic documentation attests to the history and development of the Champagne story in the area
and to the minor changes to the visual qualities of the landscape
As was the case across the whole of Europe
phylloxera decimated the vines: the replanting of grafted
although it does bear witness to this major crisis in wine-growing history
Aÿ and Mareuil sur-Aÿ have exported their wine continuously for at least four centuries and testify to the vine-growing monoculture based on the oldest form of external trade in Champagne
The Champagne Houses have ensured the safeguarding of their architectural heritage
including the original decor and furniture
and they are still used for activities related to the Champagne enterprise
The property benefits from a comprehensive protection scheme
applying the tools provided by regulations
and backed by French and European legislation
Other tools strengthen this scheme ; for example
designated Aires de mise en Valeur de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (AVAP) areas
The boundaries of the official Champagne appellation
has been defined as a “commitment zone” within the management system
the wine growing profession and other stakeholders undertake
to conserve and enhance their landscape and heritage
This commitment zone constitutes the setting and surroundings of the property
and is also a coherent historical and geographical ensemble
embodied by the property and without which its value cannot be understood
It allows for the implementation of extended management and ensures actions taken to enhance the landscape
heritage and the environmental are consistent with one another
To ensure effective conservation of the Outstanding Universal Value
bringing together public and private stakeholders
project managers and representative bodies
The management plan for the Champagne Hillsides
Houses and Cellars is a tool for regional development as well as for protection
It incorporates the overall framework associated with the history of the property and its territory as it is both conceived and experienced
The two people found dead in a west Little Rock home on Monday night were a married couple -- both officials at the University of Arkansas for Medical Sciences..
policing and breaking news for the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette
his articles focus primarily on crime and law enforcement efforts in Pulaski County
although he reports on other parts of the state as well
Deceuninck-QuickStep rider is first Frenchman in yellow in five years
but if one stage was perfectly suited for revenge of the so-called ‘Wolfpack’
it was Monday's third stage with its finish in the heart of the Champagne region: in the village of Épernay
Tour de France 2019: Stage 3 finish line quotes
Tour de France: Asgreen uncertain to continue after hard crash in Epernay
Julian Alaphilippe stormed to a massively deserved stage victory after a brave solo move from 16km out
The dramatic victory from 'Loulou' was overshadowed by a major crash from the team’s workhorse
multiple champagne corks will pop at the Deceuninck-QuickStep hotel this evening
"I don’t know," team manager Patrick Lefevere responded when asked about the size of the evening's celebration
"because we’re staying in a Campanile hotel tonight… There are really great hotels in France
Maybe they’re going to have only five bottles
Maybe I’ll have to send someone to Dom Perignon to buy something."
When Alaphilippe found out that he not only won the stage but also took the yellow jersey from Mike Teunissen
He's the first French rider to wear the maillot jaune since Tony Gallopin in 2014
Alaphilippe won the stage and now leads the general classification by 20 seconds over Wout van Aert (Jumbo-Visma)
but that’s not a guarantee to win," he said
four categorised climbs awaited the peloton
The race situation: Tim Wellens (Soudal-Lotto) was the last survivor of the long breakaway move and he was fighting to reach the top of the Côte de Mutigny ahead of the peloton to gain two additional points for the mountain classification
The 900-metre climb averaged 12.2 per cent gradient with its summit still 16 windy kilometres away from the finish where a steep short climb concluded the stage
there were also eight bonus seconds available for the first rider to crest the summit
Sport director Tom Steels said that it was unsure if Alaphilippe would attack on the Mutigny climb
he would wait for the final climb towards the finish
then we all know how he feels,” Steels said
He asked teammate Dries Devenyns to move to the front and go flat out.
"I didn’t think to go from so far out but those percentages suit me well," Alaphilippe said
"I was well positioned at the foot of the climb
As the speed dropped a little I was able to recover
I was judging my rivals and checked what was going on around me."
and none of the riders behind him is able or willing to join him
"I attacked just before the top of the climb," he said
"Once I attacked I no longer thought about the consequences
I was focused to ride a nice finale.”
thus Alaphilippe took only one point and five bonus seconds
Steels said the 27-year-old French rider did a recon of the final 100km of the stage
and he even checked the final kilometres two times
he went blisteringly fast in the descent compared to the more cautious approach of the Team Ineos riders who were leading the peloton
Alaphilippe's descent easily held off a counter-attack from Michael Woods (EF Education First)
Alexey Lutsenko (Astana) and Mikel Landa (Movistar)
the four chasers were reeled in by the peloton and Alaphilippe was more than 50 seconds ahead
"In the descent I managed to extend my lead,” Alaphilippe said
On the more wide and open roads towards Épernay
the gap dropped back to 30 seconds at four kilometres from the finish line
Alaphilippe stood tall and crossed the finish line while releasing some screams of joy
Team manager Patrick Lefevere was also pleased about the performance from Alaphilippe
just like he did in Milano-Sanremo," Lefevere said
"He’s a rider who’s not often missing out on his targets
He’s not racing with his head but with his heart
there’s still riders like him in the peloton
"I expected him to try and win in a sprint," Lefevere said
but the four strong chasers didn’t get any closer
It was really hard but he was able to do it.”
Alaphilippe clearly feels at home in the Belgian team
He rode a stunning 2018 season with two great stage victories and the mountain's classification at the 2018 Tour
Alaphilippe and the team agreed to continue their partnership for two more years
"I’m very happy to have taken the decision," Alaphilippe said
"I had to think about my future and I managed to make a deal with Patrick
There were a few other proposals from teams which would result in a different career planning
It’s a nice present to wear the maillot for the team."
When asked if he expected to keep the jersey for a long time
"It’s only the third stage," he said
I know that I can’t hold onto it to Paris
there’s a few more stages that suit me though."
the Deceuninck-QuickStep team will need to work in the peloton to control the long breakaway attempts
Lefevere hasn’t held back in demanding that other teams would take their responsibility
"Today only Jumbo-Visma and our team were pulling
"Other teams who want a bunch sprint need to work too
I just heard that Kasper Asgreen crashed hard at 12km from the finish
I hope that he recovers well and is able to help us out tomorrow."
the Danish rider crashed head-first into an advertising panel at a roundabout
the young rider was able to continue and finish the race
"I’m thinking about him," Alaphilippe said
"I’m touched to hear that he’s hurt
I hope to receive good news about him soon."
From Champagne houses printing banknotes to harvesting under shellfire
Decanter looks at Champagne during World War One as part of the Armistice Day and Veterans Day commemorations
Champagne lost people
buildings and markets as a result of vicious fighting during World War One
Don and Petie Kladstrup, writing in their book Champagne
described World War One as Champagne’s ‘darkest hour’
‘of all the terrible moments in Champagne’s long history
none was more catastrophic than World War One.’
Champagne quickly found itself on the frontline between the German and Allied armies in autumn 1914 and was thereafter at the centre of the bloody war of attrition that continued for another four years
Reims cathedral was among the first casualties after German artillery caused the building to catch fire in September 1914
Champagne harvests during the ‘Great War’ have become famous for being predominantly handled by women and children; most of the men having been conscripted to fight
The 1914 vintage has since been lauded as one of the 20th Century’s finest in Champagne
but the harvest was a close-run thing in many areas
An Allied offensive forced the Germans to abandon Epernay only a week before picking began
and harvesting was brought forward amid gunfire and shelling
was mayor of Epernay at the time German troops marched into town on 4 September 1914
‘All the banks closed once the Germans arrived
so there was no way of getting any money,’ Hubert de Billy
told guests at the Decanter Fine Wine Encounter in London last weekend
he and others decided to begin printing their own banknotes,’ de Billy said
Several cities and towns across France were given special dispensation to print ’emergency banknotes’ during the war
Some of the notes have since become collectors items
the second great battle in the Champagne area got underway following a French attack on German lines orchestrated by Marshal Joffre
He abandoned the offensive around one week later
Years of trench warfare followed and it is estimated that around 40% of Champagne’s vineyards were destroyed by Armistice Day on 11 November 1918
A recent auction of a Krug cellar visit and tasting of the 1915 vintage sold for $116,000 at Sotheby’s in September this year
Champagne lost much custom in two major markets due to the Russian Revolution and US prohibition
that Champagne growers and houses now produce around 300m bottles annually
Sources: ‘Champagne’ by Don & Petie Kladstrup
I am tasting the stars!” reportedly called out Dom Pierre Pérignon to his fellow monks when he first tasted Champagne
so intoxicated was he by the bubbles he had created
we’ve all been captivated by Champagne’s sparkle ever since
The Champagne countryside also has its enduring appeal: sweeping views of lush vineyards
and historic domaines combined with a ‘when in Rome’ attitude when it comes to bottle popping make this one of France’s most fun and festive wine regions
With Reims just 45 minutes by train from Paris and Épernay not much further at around 1 hour 15, Champagne makes an easy day trip to add onto a city break
But with a flurry of new hotel openings in the last few years
from sleek city centre boltholes to luxe spa retreats
Here’s our pick of the top stays across the region to inspire your next Champagne getaway
Decadent rooms transport you straight into a period drama with colourful florals
Dinner at the hotel’s two Michelin-star restaurant Le Parc is simply superb; this is French fine dining at its best
the evening starts with an al fresco apéritif (une coupe de champagne
bien sûr) overlooking the perfectly manicured garden before moving into the stunning dining room to embark on a culinary journey through Champagne
Come wintertime; you can cosy up in the tartan-clad bar with the excellent Champagne list
the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa was completely purpose-built for its 2018 opening
The angular amphitheatre design was created with the view in mind; all 47 suites get one and an outdoor balcony to enjoy it from
an impressively long menu of wellness treatments
and a choice of two restaurants (including the wonderful Michelin star Le Royal and
the hotel is pretty much unmatched in Champagne in terms of what it can offer
That extends to the service too: the team can plan bespoke itineraries
including access to the usually closed doors of Louis Roederer
whose vineyards at the front of the hotel are one of the main highlights of that sweeping view
Address: 9 Rue de la République, 51160 Champillon, France
this former 1926 fire station (caserne in French) was reborn as Reims’ only five-star hotel and the one with the most enviable location to boot – just opposite the 13th-century Gothic Reims Cathedral
Interiors take design cues from la Champagne
and le champagne the drink – think an earthy colour palette inspired by the seasonal shades of the Champagne countryside and suspended lights mimicking the shape of champagne bottles
There’s a picturesque view from every angle
but only the Cathedral Room or Skyline Room will get you that Instagrammable Cathedral shot
Downstairs there’s a subterranean spa if you have the time between stomping around the city sightseeing whilst
the hotel’s restaurant La Grande Georgette puts a contemporary riff on French fare and is worth a visit even if you’re not staying the night
Address: 18 Rue Tronsson Ducoudray, 51100 Reims, France
this private residence on the prestigious Avenue de Champagne has been transformed into an elegant guest house by the owners of Champagne Leclerc Briant
Each of the five guest rooms has been smartly dressed in a monochrome palette and soft shades of grey and accessorised with many of the former owner’s personal furnishings to give the impression of living in your ultra-chic apartment
Inspired by the intoxicating lure of travel
the breakfast room is decorated with the hand-printed Eldorado wallpaper from Zuber (using antique wood blocks carved back in 1848)
the pop of Champagne bottles is never too far away: Leclerc Briant has its own bar and leafy outdoor terrace just downstairs serving its biodynamic and organic wines
Address: 25 bis Av. de Champagne, 51200 Épernay, France
this superb luxury guesthouse sits surrounded by vineyards and Japanese gardens in the lovely little village of Aÿ
The five guest rooms all sport the same Mondrian colour palette of immaculate white walls jazzed up with pops of red
and yellow – those in the original building also feature period details such as gilded gold mirrors
but booking into room 04 or suite 02 – also referred to as the Golden Suite in reference to the domed ceiling lined with 500 sheets of gold – will also get you a sun-soaked private terrace
Thoughtful extras come as standard (think chocolates from Épernay’s master chocolatier Emmanuel Briet and a help-yourself minibar)
and there’s the option to add on exclusive experiences such as private cellar tours
Champagne tasting with the resident private chef
based on the beauty benefits of Champagne’s chalky terroir
Address: 83 Bd Charles de Gaulle, 51160 Aÿ-Champagne, France
half-timbered exterior of this 1800 property on the Avenue de Champagne contrasts the usually grand châteaux and villas that sit along the world’s most expensive avenue – named after the inscription carved about its door
the private home was bought by the Rimaire family nearly twenty years ago and is still overseen by grandmother Mme Rimaire
The five guest rooms feature a homely mish-mash of antique furnishings
the pretty gated garden is shared with the very cool Champagne bar next door
whose carefully curated menu favours small organic and biodynamic producers
Address: 27 Av. de Champagne, 51200 Épernay, France
and Rare Champagnes took it under their care
It’s since received a sensitive and glorious restoration to bring it back to life as Résidence Eisenhower
Each gorgeous guest room shines anew in pretty pastel shades and delicate florals
accessorised with a collection of the owners’ own furniture to add a personal touch
original stained glass windows and ornate wall mouldings have been beautifully revived to respect the original design of the family home
and the master suite even comes with its original bathroom
Guests are personally looked after by the Maîtresse de Maison
who can organise private Champagne tastings in the underground cellar
and call upon Michelin star chefs to cook up a dinner party feast in the professional kitchen
Address: 17 Bd Lundy, 51100 Reims, France
An unmarked white door on the Avenue de Champagne opens up to this surprisingly vast apartment
which has been designed for families or groups of Champagne-loving friends
The open floor mezzanine comes furnished with three double beds – making it a great space to put the kids – whilst individual rooms are simply but attractively furnished with touches of classic toile de Jouy fabrics and summery florals
A high ceiling and a crisscross of thick wooden beams crown the huge living area and complete kitchen
where you’ll wake up to find croissants and baguettes each morning left by the family's grandmother
Address: 25 T Avenue de Champagne 51200 Epernay
Champagne is like no other wine. So, too, the wine region of Champagne is like no other region. This small patch of land in northeastern France is a strictly defined territory made up of some 34,000 hectares of vineyards. Moët & Chandon
is one of the oldest champagne houses; it is also one of the largest
(One indication of how much someone knows about wine is how they pronounce Moët
Insiders say “Mow-it” rather than “Mo-ay”.)
The grand white-stone building houses mementos of the Moët family
but it’s descending into the cellars—a labyrinth 28 kilometres
cut deep into the chalk beneath the town—that is the marvel
“You are not visiting a museum,” reminds Gouez
one observes thousands if not millions of bottles
many on riddling racks (on occasion you may spot the riddler
whose task it is to rotate each bottle a small increment and who turns up to 50,000 bottles a day) and plenty of others resting on the lees
Visiting the hallowed caves of Moët & Chandon makes for an unforgettable #moetmoment
Champagne is all too often regarded as the wine for celebrations
But one should keep top of mind that champagne is a wine and should be embraced as such
it can be uncorked as routinely as a cabernet or a chardonnay
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On our visit to FUMARE
Dion Giolito invited us into the Illusione warehouse in Reno
a plain-looking building in an office park
It’s somewhat what you would expect. Meticulously organized, clean and full of lots of Illusione. Everything except the latest Singularé was in supply
At the front, there’s personal storage for Giolito, including a few Illusione gems. Sure, there’s boxes of ~eccj~, Singularé Phantoms and others
but there’s also a few things never before photographed
I spotted an interesting looking ~88~ box with a special inscription
“Exclusivamente per FUMARE.” It’s a special box
one of the original 50 boxes that started Illusione
Giolito explained it himself.
This is an Epernay War Chest that Giolito toyed with releasing when the line debuted in 2009. Inside would be Epernay Le Petít, Le Ferme, Le Elegance, Le Grande and ~eccj~, the cigar that serves as the base of Epernay.
Ultimately, the War Chest project never came to fruition, making this the only one in existence.
Print Reporting from EPERNAY
under the intense pressure of being pursued by the chasing pack of riders at the Tour de France
Julian Alaphilippe also stayed as cool as a chilled glass of Champagne
The French rider’s sparkling and poised Stage 3 ride on Monday into Epernay
the Champagne town that exports bubbly worldwide
delivered a first victory for France at this Tour and the country’s first yellow jersey since 2014 when Tony Gallopin held the race lead for one day
The manner of Alaphilippe’s win — surprising other pretenders for the stage victory with a devastating burst of speed on a sharp climb and then gritting his teeth as he rode solo to the finish — oozed what the French call “panache,” or pure class
with its final section of sharp hills among the Champagne vineyards
Alaphilippe delivered the decisive blow on the Cote de Mutigny
the steepest of four notable hill climbs heading toward Epernay
“I did exactly what I’d planned to do,” he said
Jumping out of the saddle to hammer on his pedals up the final part of the 12% incline
the equally explosive Slovak who’d also been eyeing the stage to add to his collection of 11 career stage victories at the Tour
But as the pack then reacted and gave chase
eating into his meager lead of around half a minute
victory for Alaphilippe was by no means guaranteed
the leader of the Deceuninck-Quick Step team kept his pursuers at bay for 10 miles
speeding alone up Epernay’s cobbled Champagne Avenue to the lung-busting uphill finish
By the time he sped past a statue of Dom Perignon
a monk who lent his name to James Bond’s favorite brand of Champagne
it became clear Alaphilippe wouldn’t be caught
“Winning the stage in this manner is the most beautiful way to start this Tour,” Alaphilippe said
“This opportunity offered itself up and I had to seize it.”
at the prospect of slipping into the canary-yellow leader’s jersey for the first time in his career
a Dutch sprinter who won it on Stage 1 and held it on Stage 2 but who wilted on Epernay’s vineyard-covered hills
It was Alaphilippe’s first stage victory at this Tour and third in his career
He also won two stages on the Tour last year
“I so dreamed of this scenario and I thought of my family in front of the TV,” he said
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and Natalie PortmanIt was popped aboard the inaugural flight of the Concorde
and it’s been splashed into coupes and flutes at some of history’s most legendary parties
the world has celebrated with Moët & Chandon’s Brut Impérial Champagne but last night
“Moët & Chandon was first created in 1743
so it was a long time after they created the Brut Impérial as a shift from the sweet wines to something more modern,” LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault explained to the lucky 120 guests who had traipsed from Paris aboard the Orient Express earlier in the day
“I think the beauty of Moët & Chandon is precisely this mix of modernity and tradition.”
“When you win, you fill the trophies with Champagne and it smashes in your face,” Federer told us, alongside his wife and a hungry horde of flashbulbs. “But tennis is not much of a spraying Champagne sport, and maybe we have to change that."
And if this all wasn’t enough opulence for one evening, the house lights were lowered as guests were directed to look toward a transparent wall, where a fireworks display erupted in the adjacent fields. It was then left to crooner Freya Ridings to close out the evening from her grand piano. “I’ve never had to play after an incredible fireworks display like that before,” she told Vogue with a laugh while enjoying a post-performance libation. “How do you possibly beat that?”
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Get a glimpse at the fascinating history behind Champagne and the world’s most famous bubbles
“Come quickly, I am tasting the stars!” reportedly said the French monk Dom Pérignon upon his first taste of champagne
and our enthusiasm for the world’s most famous wine region hasn’t changed since
The region now counts around 16,200 growers and some 370 houses behind the 187.2 million bottles of bubbly exported worldwide last year
according to figures from the Champagne Bureau UK
Of these houses, you’ll find most of the big domaines around Reims (Ruinart, Pommery, Taittinger and Veuve Clicquot are all here) or in Épernay
after Jean-Rémy Moët wisely chose to build on a key pathway between Paris and Europe
starting what would become the Avenue de Champagne
[See also: On The Rosé Road Again: A Guide to Wine Tourism in Provence]
These days the trip is slightly easier; you can now get to Epernay by train in one hour and 15 minutes from Paris
If you’re curious to dive into the new trend for low- and zero-dosage wines
then add on visits to smaller producers outside of the cities — just make sure to contact them in advance: A more artisan production also means a smaller team to welcome guests
You’ll find the doors to the grand maisons are usually always open
to give you a glimpse at the fascinating history behind the world’s most famous bubbles
Read on for Elite Traveler’s guide to the very best that Champagne has to offer
The exceptional two-Michelin star Le Parc, housed in the stunning Domaine Les Crayères, is an example of French fine dining at its best
A magical evening begins with a glass of bubbles on the garden terrace before moving inside to the luxurious dining room
let chef Philippe Mille guide you through the surrounding terroir with one of the sublime tasting menus
Don’t let the American dive bar/British pub decor fool you: The Glue Pot has one of the best champagne lists in the city — served up in Zalto glasses
For a classic oyster and champagne pairing
Le Bocal has chosen only the best from Maison Gillardeau
recognizable by the small ‘G’ printed onto the shell
The rest of the seafood menu is equally good — think: lobster from Brittany and fish from Noirmoutier — while a small selection of desserts come from Normandy’s famed butter maker
The prettiest bottles in Champagne are now being served in the prettiest setting at Cellier Belle Époque. Located in the historic Maison Perrier-Jouët
the bar takes inspiration from the house’s naturistic Art Nouveau style and serves up champagne
cocktails and light bites in a garden-inspired setting and terrace
This 1926 former fire station (caserne in French) has been transformed into Reims’ sleekest five-star hotel
with a prime location that offers a spectacular view of Reims Cathedral
Guest rooms take design cues from la Champagne
and gold palette nods to the seasonal shades of the countryside and ceiling lights mimic the shape of champagne bottles
Book the Rooftop Duplex if you want the most space — and a large private terrace — but the Cathedral or Skyline Room is best for that Instagram-worthy shot
for excellent French cuisine and cathedral views
From $353 per night. Contact reservation@lacasernechanzy.com, +33 326 831 818, lacasernechanzy.com
This magnificent private mansion was first built in 1911 and has received a sensitive restoration to reopen as Résidence Eisenhower
named after the famous general (and of course later president) who stayed at the property during World War II
A team of experts have revived original features such as stained glass windows
one of eight rooms and suites dressed in a beautiful period style
The whole property is often booked for private events
making reservations quite exclusive — but it’s worth changing your dates just to stay here
From $395 per night. Contact Annelies Pieters, maitresse de maison, annelies@residence-eisenhower.com, +33 379 450 250, residence-eisenhower.com
To balance out indulgent champagne dinners
the spa offers a unique collection of treatments including facials courtesy of cult French beauty brand Biologique Recherche
Pilates classes with a former Paris Opera Ballet dancer-turned-posturologist
and Kobido massage performed by one of only 50 practitioners in the world
From $740. Contact Vincent Parinaud, general manager, reservation@royalchampagne.com, +33 326 528 711, royalchampagne.com
Champagne Henri Giraud breathed new life into this 19th-century manor house to offer a full Champagne experience that complements its cuvées
Just five rooms make for an intimate stay (snag the Golden Suite for the most space and a terrace) that includes private tours of Domaine Henri Giraud and an exclusive dining and wine pairing
Inspired by the chalk soil that makes Champagne so special
the hotel has also designed a signature Craÿothérapie treatment that pampers with a chalk body wrap and chalk bath
From $526 per night. Contact Olivia Harant, hospitality manager, contact@manoirhenrigiraud.com, +33 326 557 585, manoir-henri-giraud.com
Moët & Chandon not only holds the title of the first Champagne house on Épernay’s Avenue de Champagne
but it now also has the largest cellars in Champagne
Tours take you through the tunnels where Napoleon Bonaparte once walked before a tasting of the world-famous Moët Impérial
created in 1869 as a nod to the self-proclaimed emperor
book the more exclusive tasting of Grand Vintage champagnes to enjoy two vintages from the Moët vineyards in your own private tasting lounge
Like Géraldine and Richard of Lacourte-Godbillon, Arthur Larmandier also made a career change to take over the family business
He now continues the work his father started in the ’80s when he decided to stop using herbicides (a revolutionary move at the time)
and the house has been certified organic since 2003
The Larmarmandier family also pushes its grapes to maximum maturity and leaves wines for slightly longer than usual in oak
playing around with different size barrels to achieve different levels of oxidation
The duck-egg blue domaine of Champagne Pommery might give off Disney princess vibes
but the Victorian architecture and typically English color were all part of Madame Pommery’s smart plan to appeal to the champagne-loving British aristocracy
It’s just as colorful down in the crayères (chalk caves)
where you’ll find an ever-rotating contemporary art exhibition that pays homage to the formidable Mme Pommery’s love of art
as well as 19th-century bas-reliefs that were sculpted by candlelight into the chalk
After corporate career stints, Géraldine Lacourte and her husband Richard Desvignes spent one year retraining in wine to take over Lacourte-Godbillon from Géraldine’s parents in 2006
The husband-and-wife team stopped using herbicides in 2010
The village’s sandy soil creates a lighter pinot noir that is beautifully expressed in the signature Terroirs d’Écueil and a selection of 100% pinot noirs
The main event in Champagne is obviously the harvest
when Champagne houses will be too busy to welcome visitors
The date varies by region and year by year but it usually begins around the beginning of September
although due to climate change that date now starts 18 days earlier than it did 30 years ago
Is there any better way to see Champagne’s world-famous vineyards — and enjoy a glass — than from the heights of a hot-air balloon
Aerfun organizes both sunrise and sunset balloon rides for a magical way to enjoy une coupe de champagne
If you make Épernay your base then it’s worth getting out of town to Aÿ, which is just a 10-minute car ride away (or four minutes by train). This charming village packs in Champagne houses such as Bollinger
Jewelery and Art Nouveau fans will appreciate it as the birthplace of René Lalique
can take a self-guided tour to find out about the life of France’s master glassmaker
The currently closed Taittinger will reopen its doors in 2024 to welcome visitors back to its crayères with a revamped selection of tasting tours and vineyards experiences
plus a new restaurant offering wine pairings inspired by Taittinger’s signature collection of champagnes
Also look out for the reopening of the Palais du Tau
the former residence of the archbishops of Reims and now a museum housing treasures such as tapestries
paintings and sculptures from the cathedral
From tastings on a vintage bullet boat to farm-to-table feasts in an old train depot
and relax in France’s most famous wine region
While France’s northeastern region of Champagne has always had its draws — picturesque villages
a labyrinthine network of underground chalk galleries
not to mention global name recognition — it’s only relatively recently that the iconic houses that forged its luxe reputation have taken a serious interest in tourism
“Lots of the houses had little trains you could take [through the cellars] that were reminiscent of something you would have seen at Disney World,” remembers Christian Holthausen
a French-American strategic consultant in the wine & spirits industry
of his early career in Champagne in the 1990s
“There was always a gift shop with ice buckets and t-shirts for sale
you were never invited for lunch or dinner
You were just given a generic list of suggestions for dining options
straddling a line between ludicrously expensive and horribly grim.”
But it wasn’t until Champagne’s hillsides, houses, and cellars earned UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2015 that Le Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne and the regional tourism board began seriously ramping up promotion of the region from an oenotourism perspective
launching events and flashy advertising campaigns to cement the Champagne region as a veritable must-go for both French and foreign travelers
and Champagne the drink as something to pair with more than a special occasion
posters across France advertised fizzing flutes of Champagne alongside glazed donuts
So far the collective efforts seem to be working. International visits to the region have increased dramatically — Taittinger, for example, reported a 21 percent jump in foreign tourism traffic between 2015 and 2018 — and today
a visitor to Champagne can cycle through the region’s quaint villages
ones that showcase how Champagne connects to daily life as a wine that complements food
Champagne may have been slow to embrace wine tourism but if these new experiences are any indication
there is a firm commitment to making up for lost time
A final note: This isn’t meant to be an exhaustive list by any means — there are some 360 Champagne houses (and 16,200 winemakers) in the appellation and some still don’t offer public visits at all
The grapes: The dominant trio of grape varietals to remember when it comes to champagne production: chardonnay
Chardonnay represents approximately 70% of vineyards and (almost always) makes up 100% of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes
characterized by its exclusively white grape composition
single-vineyard wines: While there are a growing number of single-vineyard or single-parcel champagnes produced today across the regions (including the Clos des Goisses from Philipponnat
the majority of Champagnes are blended wines
And in case you’re wondering if one approach is better than the other
or if small estates produce better quality Champagnes than large houses
as well as the process of making Champagne and the geological and environmental specificity that shapes the region’s unique terroir
during your visits to these forward-looking houses
The versatility of Piot-Sevillano champagnes and a brand new tasting center for the independent house
with views overlooking the vines and the Marne valley
is what led Christine Scher-Sévillano and her husband to start offering gastronomic picnics in 2020
winemaking has been the lifeblood of the Piot family
who owns 20 acres in the small village of Vincelles
Christine and her husband have preserved that heritage while taking it further with low intervention viticulture (currently transitioning to organic)
and a new tasting and event space in a former school located in the village
Champagnes that are either delicate or vinous
They’re perfectly adaptable to a range of dishes,” says Christine
she says the house’s Fraicheur de Coteau Extra Brut cuvée pairs well with scallops
is more powerful and therefore better complemented by heartier foods such as steak
this fourth-generation family-run champagne house in Damery opened a professional tasting room and state-of-the-art kitchen
where Anne Malassagne and her brother Antoine oversee cooking workshops (by appointment only) meant to highlight the pairing potential for their champagnes
That might be roasted chicken with a glass of their Brut Intense or a slightly more involved dish using local ingredients
visitors leave with a better appreciation for the various Champagne styles and how they can complement almost anything you might want to eat
very few people actually drink Champagne with caviar or lobster,” says Malassgne
“but nearly everyone I know drinks Champagne with roasted chicken or with Comté cheese.”
the house will once again run Champenois lunches in a cabin situated at the heart of its vines in Bisseuil
who traces its roots to the region as far back as the 16th century and has been operating as a producer since 1910
occupies unique real estate in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ
The house is best known for the Clos des Goisses
a 13.5-acre vineyard adjacent to the winery purchased back in 1935 and largely considered one of the region’s most exceptional terroirs
That’s in part thanks to the orientation of the vineyard: south-facing and situated on a steep 45-degree slope
which makes it about 1.5 degrees warmer than average for the region
During one of the house’s special visits (available only upon request via email
guests can tour its special walled vineyard
on foot before heading onto a vintage bullet boat and sailing the Marne river for an hour and a half — just enough time for a tasting of several cuvées
including Clos des Goisses and Royale Réserve Brut
and digging into a seasonal picnic lunch prepared by the chefs at the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa (see below)
As one of only a handful of houses with crayères — Gallo-Roman chalk quarries that were hand-dug into the limestone subsoil approximately 100 feet deep
and used today as cellars — Ruinart already boasts one of the most sought-after visits to book
But beyond the two-hour guided visit with a tasting (around $79) including two cuvées
by appointment only) or sampling cuvées by the glass
the house began serving weekend brunch in the garden in the summer of 2020
The resident chef Valérie Radou creates the bistronomic menu
sourcing entirely from local Champenois producers
after going through and tasting Ruinart Brut
and Ruinart Rosé cuvées with the oenological team
“I take into consideration a number of elements: the weather during the bottle’s harvest year
which can play a role in the composition of a dish,” Radou explains
olfactive notes as well as textural qualities such as fullness
and herbs that would make suitable matches.”
you might find a brunch spread featuring fennel and orange salads (best paired with the Blanc de Blancs)
and fruit-based desserts like rhubarb tart
pineapple infused with ginger and lemon syrup
Despite the number of major Champagne houses that lord over the avenue de Champagne in Épernay
none have offered a full fine dining experience until Perrier-Jouët launched Belle Epoque Society in June 2021
the 200-year-old house’s new culinary program meant to fit within a range of budgets
On the more accessible end and open to the public (Wednesday to Sunday)
an elegant champagne bar adjacent the Perrier-Joüet boutique and production facility
that serves the house’s Blanc de Blancs with elevated snacks (when it opened
there was house-smoked salmon marinated in roasted sesame and yuzu
beneath a canopy of dried plants and flowers or outside
The more exclusive culinary experience (only 12 seats) is set across the street from Cellier in the UNESCO-protected 18th-century private mansion
that was once home to Perrier-Jouët’s founding family
Though the house was fully restored in 2017
the Friday and Saturday lunches served among the largest private collection of French Art Nouveau in Europe mark the first time it has opened to the public
from sitting rooms filled with Louis Majorelle tables and armoires
and Toulouse-Lautrec originals to a lounge kitted out with a fireplace mantle designed by Hector Guimard (known for his elaborate entrances to Paris metro stations)
guests take their seats for a seven dish pairing lunch ($280 per person) concocted by French superstar chef Pierre Gagnaire in collaboration with his protege Sébastien Morellon
Unlike most pairing menus in which the wine is meant to complement the food
here it’s the food that adapts to the cuvées (in the case of the fall menu
that was Belle Epoque Blanc de Blancs 2006
The citrus notes in the Belle Epoque Rosé 2010
was highlighted with desserts such as a poached pear granita atop fresh grapes and quince jelly cut with Champagne marc
that leaned fruity and acidic rather than sweet
The Michelin-starred Japanese chef Kazuyuki Tanaka
chef-owner of this contemporary French-Japanese restaurant in Reims
is an avowed fan of Champagne and hires young sommeliers attuned to the rising generation of Champagne producers in the region to develop a sharp wine list to pair with his inventive cooking
Multiple tasting menus (roughly between $85–$250) showcase the chef’s deep affection for French products and preference for lighter (read: sans creamy sauces) preparations
It all goes down in a pared-back dining room with a delicate dance of table service overseen by the chef’s wife Marine
you’ll definitely need to plan ahead and book well in advance
Plan to order one of everything from this popular wine bar and deli in Reims
Whether in the selection of the natural wines and biodynamic Champagnes (served by the glass or by bottle) or the sourcing of produce and meats from small purveyors
transparency is the abiding ethos for the Servas
who have welcomed a strong international contingent of clients since they opened in 2018
Don’t be surprised if there’s a bit of a wait: there are more products than there are tables but it’s worth lingering with a glass or stopping in for provisions to take home
that serial restaurateur and wine merchant Juan Sanchez (known for La Dernière Goutte
and Freddy’s in Paris) and associates (including Champagne producers Cédric and Emilie Bouchard
Jean-Pierre and Véronique Josselin) set up an affordable farm-to-table bistro
What isn’t pulled directly from the farm is sourced from local producers
while an ever-rotating series of dishes are prepared in a massive open kitchen with 23-foot high ceilings and a seven-foot wide hearth oven by a talented crew of international resident chefs (Sayaka Sawaguchi
Nathan Fallowfield and Jose Neves) and the occasional guest chef (most recently that was Robert Mendoza from Vivant Deux in Paris)
the range of dishes might include steamed cod
grilled leeks and candied garden tomatoes in a caldeirada sauce
grilled and citrus-marinated artichokes with an almond puree
served with tonkotsu and sorrel and mustard flowers
This has become a popular choice for food travelers
Yes it is a good idea to try Champenois burgers (and hot dogs
and fried chicken wings) and pair them with bubbly
What began as a food truck has turned into an institution
and the occasional record producer who passes through town
Dishes (starting at $15) are named after locally relevant historical figures — the Clovis
the François I — and served with craft beer or natural wines and Champagnes
the owners have now brought their vibe to the historic town with Sacré Bistro
If you’re prepared to drop “une petite fortune” (ranging between $165 to more than $560 per person) on a restaurant experience
who earned his third Michelin in 2014 for this gastronomic restaurant-hotel he took over from his parents
is not only a champion of local food and wine producers
but among the most vocal activists of sustainable fishing and agriculture and seasonal
While the food menu may be short (only a few options per course)
the Champagne selection runs 1,000 references deep
Lallement pays tribute to the excellence of French products with tremendous skill and respect for the artisans that make his work possible
Champagne has been shockingly limited in quality
there has been a shortage of hotels to meet demand
Here are a few hotels and inns you’ll be happy to check into after a long day of touring and tasting
Fans of room service will be particularly interested in the “Champagne Please” button on room phones at The Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa
which summons a trolley of bubbles to your door
The region’s first luxury wellness establishment
with panoramic views of the vines (specifically
The property can arrange a variety of different outdoor experiences in the region but among the best is participating in the harvest with one of the pioneers of biodynamic Champagne-making
there’s an unbelievable 16,000-square-foot spa and pool (plus an outdoor pool)
a bistro and a one-Michelin-star gastronomic restaurant
with food-and-Champagne pairing menus that highlight a different house each month
and Champagne concierges available to arrange tours
Little remains of this late 19th-century manor’s original decor but since being restored in 2015 and later opened as a 12-room hotel
the three-story Château once again draws in locals and visitors to its supreme location on a hillside surrounded by vines
done up with both contemporary furnishings and antique treasures
dine in the restaurant’s glass-enclosed sunroom
and finish the night by the fireplace with one of six rotating Champagnes
This is a five-room guesthouse from the biodynamic Champagne house Leclerc Briant
bringing together sleek Scandi design with an impressive array of French antiques and vintage furnishings in an 18th-century residence
sun-drenched dining room done up in hand-painted Zuber wallpaper but there is no on-site restaurant for lunch or dinner
Guests can book a private tour of the Leclerc Briant winery and/or head to the ground-floor boutique and tasting room to try (and buy) the house’s complete range
this late 19th-century manor house has been owned and run as a10n-room guesthouse by the Jacques Selosse Champagne estate in Avize
run by Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne (Selosse remains hugely influential in championing terroir-specific wines)
you may be offered the chance to try Substance
produced from a single chardonnay vineyard in Avize using the solera system (blending successive vintages) and one of the house’s most exceptional wines
A three-room bed & breakfast with shared kitchen set up in an 18th-century farmhouse
run by Juan Sanchez and his associates at Le Garde Champêtre
overlooking the Seine river in the southernmost edge of Champagne
Completely renovated by architect Alexis Cautain and interior designer Kelly Lippmann in the summer of 2020
Le Garde Champêtre restaurant is a 10-minute walk away along the river
Lindsey Tramuta is a Paris-based writer and the author of The New Paris and The New Parisienne: The Women & Ideas Shaping Paris. Joann Pai is a food & travel photographer in Paris
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Eden by Perrier-Jouët is making its third visit to the city from May 10 to May 20
the multisensory event deploys Virtual Reality to plunge guests deep into Perrier-Jouët's Art of the Wild
with an experience that transports them to the Maison's legendary cellars
Perrier-Jouët is now using digital media to bring about a fusion of art and nature
it has created a lush enchanted garden that rewilds the urban landscape
The event showcases the immersive installation created for DesignMiami/ by the US-based duo Luftwerk: a hypnotic interplay of color and light that deconstructs the Maison's anemone motif
It also invites guests to strike out into uncharted territory
via a unique Virtual Reality experience that recreates Eden - the secret cellar where the Maison's most exceptional vintages are kept
By exploring this subterranean labyrinth alongside a luxuriant and dreamlike garden
visitors can win a trip to the Maison Belle Epoque
prestigious DJs create a party vibe against a backdrop of flowers and exotic foliage
special tasting experiences - hosted by Perrier-Jouët's Cellar Master Hervé Deschamps - are available to all
gastronomic lunch and dinner events are being staged with a trio of renowned chefs: Dominique Bouchet
Yosuke Akasaka from Pierre Gagnaire and Mamoru Sugiyama from Ginza Sushi Ko
The meals take diners on another journey through time and space - from the delights of contemporary Tokyo to the treasures of the Eden cellar - in homage to the transformative power of nature
Deceuninck-Quickstep rider's bike snapped in half
all Kasper Asgreen had to do was ride to the finish
But he missed a traffic sign in the middle of the road and suffered a nasty crash that snapped his bike in two
Tour de France: Alaphilippe's instinct leads to champagne in Epernay
who was runner-up in the Tour of Flanders and is the Danish national time trial champion
plays a critical role in the Belgian team's line-up for the Tour de France
Team manager Patrick Lefevere said he hope that Asgreen can continue: "He's the engine of our team."
His teammate Michael Mørkøv was riding near Asgreen before the crash and warned him about the danger
but said the Dane did not react and rode straight into it
the impact shattering his Specialized frame
The race doctor examined Asgreen after the crash
and the rider insisted on finishing the stage
Out of caution he was taken after the stage by ambulance to a hospital for further examinations
The Deceuninck-Quickstep team issued an update Monday evening
saying "Deceuninck – Quick-Step’s medical staff will continue to monitor Asgreen overnight and a final decision on his further participation in the race will be taken tomorrow morning."