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The Sunday TimesThe hordes of tourists taking selfies on the Spanish Steps in Rome last week did not seem perturbed by prosaic matters such as who owned the stone they stood on
Neither did the carabinieri prowling with the threat of a €250 (£209) fine for anyone who
Europe’s most famous staircase has become the subject of an international dispute between old rivals
vaunted alongside the Colosseum and St Peter’s Basilica as one of the “souls” of Rome
Crowds on the steps in 2012 before the ban on sitting came inALAMYA regulator in Paris earlier this month briefly mentioned the steps in a 107-page report into the management of France’s
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Museums have no borders,they have a network
Keywords: RE-ORG; ICCROM; Collection storages; Preventive conservation; Training
This summer’s edition of Museum International – Museum Collection Storage – is a discussion of the state of museum storage worldwide
Among the many professionals who contributed to the writing of this new edition
had the privilege of interviewing Gaël de Guichen
a French chemical engineer who has spent his professional career with ICCROM
focusing on the preventive conservation of movable heritage
he has carried out more than 700 missions in ICCROM’s Member States
initiating flagship projects such as PREMA 1990-2000
He also coordinated the ICOM-CC working group that defined the terminology of conservation-restoration
‘a museum’s storage room is the place where unexhibited collections are brought together in optimal conditions
entitled ‘Collection Storage: A Window Into the Richness of Cultural Heritage
A Conversation with Gaël de Guichen‘
he tells how he came to this definition and what it implies
which also raises new possibilities for the future of storage around the world
Yaël Kreplak and François Mairesse: How do you explain the contrast in museums that
but whose storage rooms are in an appalling state
How is it possible that this situation persists
Gaël de Guichen: ICCROM’s 2009 survey was the confirmation of 30 years of experience of visiting and studying storage rooms
What I believe is that museum directors who inherit a deplorable situation are ashamed of the state of their storage rooms and are afraid of being judged if they show them to others
and so on (see examples of storage spaces before RE-ORG
is to understand why they do not reorganise them
we hear the following excuses: lack of time
The idea that people have of reorganising a collection storage explains
they try to show what they are capable of doing: they organise exhibitions
But the collection storage is not their priority
And it’s true that when you show your renovated collection storage
it doesn’t attract as much attention as a new exhibition
it looks normal and people tend to ask you what the problem was [that prompted a need for reorganisation in the first place]
the programme makes it possible to reorganise a collection storage room of up to 700 square metres in size in two weeks
if I will be able to have everything done on time
we go around to the storage rooms and divide into teams (one group for storage room A
Then comes a phase that is usually a little scary
and we make a list of possible material needs
Sometimes people tell me that we work miracles
but I see that it’s the system that really works when
the head guard comes and gives me a letter in which he thanks me on behalf of his team for having saved the storage collection
I have received such testimonials more than once
The full article is free-to-access for a limited period for the general public
ICOM members can continue to read the full issue and journal archive free of charge on their member space.
We hope that this interview will inspire you to delve further into the discussion on museum collection storage – so often perceived as invisible, inactive spaces, yet fundamental to museums’ activities.
The SE Voice is the Limestone Coast’s only fully digital publication. Locally owned & operated, we deliver all the latest news & sport direct to your fingertips. We're run by a creative team of local journalists all based in the region. News as we know has changed - we're delivering it first and free. Thank you for your support in keeping local news alive.
There are hopes that the pontoon on the Robe Front Beach may yet return to the water this summer.
The structure had been a favourite with beachgoers for over 50 years but has been kept indefinitely on land by the District Council of Robe.
As with other seaside councils across South Australia with such water structures, Robe Council was required by its insurers to have daily inspections and meet other requirements.
The requirements would have tested the human and financial resources of the council.
However, some insurer requirements have been relaxed with the Robe Surf Life Saving Club willing to undertake the now-weekly inspections.
Before the pontoon returns to Guichen Bay, some maintenance work is required and some administrative requirements such as a Memorandum of Understanding must be signed.
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Cosmos » History
In early June 1857, Koning Willem de Tweede set sail from Hong Kong, bound for the small South Australian seaport of Robe. Onboard the 42-metre-long Dutch fregat were more than 400 Chinese migrants who, like thousands of their compatriots at that time, were leaving their homes to search for gold in a foreign land.
The ship arrived safely in Guichen Bay on June 15, and its passengers disembarked the following day to begin their arduous 400-kilometre-long overland trek to the Victorian gold fields. But for the next two weeks, the ship and its crew could not leave due to inclement weather.
Then, on June 30, a severe south-westerly storm hit. Gale-force winds dragged the ship’s anchors, before tearing the windlass from the deck. In an attempt to save his ship and his crew, Captain Hindrik Remmelt Giezen decided to run the ship aground in the sandy shallows.
But his plan failed. After the ship grounded, its hull started to break up in the heavy swell and surf, and sixteen crew members drowned when one of the ship’s boats capsized. Miraculously, Captain Giezen survived and a month after the disaster, sold the wreck for £225.
The shipwreck has remained underwater ever since. In fact, it has never been located. But finding it – and uncovering its submerged stories – is now the focus of a project being led by Dr James Hunter, Curator of Naval Heritage and Archaeology at the Australian National Maritime Museum (ANMM).
Hunter’s research background is “predominantly shipwreck-based”. He has worked on wrecks located in the intertidal zone and some nearly 40 metres below the surface, although the average depth of most he has studied is between three and six metres. Among the most famous shipwreck sites he has worked on are Captain Cook’s first boat, HMB Endeavour in the American town of Newport, Rhode Island and the Australian Navy submarine, HMAS AE1 in Papua New Guinea.
Long before even entertaining the thought of beginning a search for a shipwreck site, Hunter and his team will conduct extensive archival research about a wrecked ship and start building relationships with people who live nearby in order to gain their trust and hear any local knowledge they might have that might be useful.
The wrecking event was catastrophic and very sudden, so we’re very likely to find a lot of artefacts.
Once they know the general area of a wrecked ship, they will then start searching the sea floor. Initially, this is done on a boat using high-tech tools like multibeam sonar which picks up any irregular features on the seabed, and a magnetometer which detects concentrations of iron objects buried beneath it.
Since around 2010, 3D photogrammetry has also been part of Hunter’s investigative toolkit. It allows scientists to stitch together multiple digital images to create, according to Hunter, “really accurate, photorealistic three-dimensional models of shipwreck remains and artefacts”.
Once they are confident they know where the wreck is, Hunter and his team will finally don their SCUBA gear and get in the water. “None of us can hold our breath long enough to work without it,” he jokes. Working together, they will conduct a systematic survey of the seabed and investigate the site in units.
If the wreck isn’t buried under sediment, then studying it looks very similar to traditional land archaeology and is done using clipboards, pencils, tape measures, and perhaps a bit of gentle hand wafting to clear sediment – the one difference being that it is happening underwater. But if it is completely buried, Hunter says, “we’ve got to get the dredge out. It’s like an underwater vacuum cleaner that sucks the sand off the site.”
If a wreck site is quite deep, like HMAS AE1, which was found at a depth of more than 300 metres, then maritime archaeologists will usually use autonomous underwater vehicles (AUVs) and remotely operated vehicles (ROVs) for site investigation. These have been, Hunter says, “a huge game changer. They don’t get tired – they don’t have to be fed, they don’t have to sleep.”
Although the wreck of Koning Willem de Tweede is not particularly famous, Hunter believes its potential is “mind-blowing”.
“The wrecking event was catastrophic and very sudden, so we’re very likely to find a lot of artefacts. No one had time to grab anything. Pretty much everything was lost – and is all probably still in the wreck, which can tell us so much about the ship’s crew and its passengers.”
He first learned about Koning Willem de Tweede more than a decade ago when his wife Emily Jateff, who is the ANMM’s Curator of Ocean Science and Technology and has a background in maritime archaeology, conducted her own search for it. Then, a few years ago the Dutch Embassy in Canberra got in touch to see if he knew of any sites that could be worth exploring as part of the Netherlands’ Shared Cultural Heritage Program.
Although there were other suitable Dutch shipwreck sites in the Coral Sea, Hunter believed Koning Willem de Tweede was ideal given its accessibility and the story associated with it. The Dutch government agreed – “and we got the money. And then I thought, ‘Oh no, we’re locked into this now!’”
Hunter first travelled to Robe in April 2022. The trip “was more a reconnaissance trip more than anything else”, an opportunity for him and his colleagues from the non-profit Silentworld Foundation to meet locals, examine artefacts held by the Robe Branch of the National Trust of South Australia, and familiarise themselves with the area. Hunter quickly realised it wasn’t going to be an easy place to work.
“There’re reasons there are shipwrecks there – Guichen Bay is an open anchorage, is completely exposed to the west, and is battered by strong winds and high seas during inclement weather,” he says.
They returned to Robe seven months later to conduct remote sensing of the area they believed, based on their prior research, the shipwreck was located. The magnetometer detected “a very complex and very large magnetic target”, Hunter says, indicative of anchors and other heavy iron hardware, like anchor chains, found on ships.
The team planned to dive the target the next morning, but the weather turned overnight, making it unsafe to do so. The weather did not improve for the remaining days the maritime archaeologists were in town, so they spent their time assessing more artefacts and archives and conducting a metal detector survey of the beach.
They didn’t find anything, except for two very small pieces of pottery. When they compared those fragments with ceramic Chinese ginger jars in the local National Trust collection, Hunter says “it was exactly the same kind of pottery.”
In March 2023, Hunter and his team went back to Robe for a third time. They conducted another magnetometer survey over the site, which confirmed the initial contact, and finally managed to get in the water. The visibility on the first day of diving, however, was poor – “it was like you were in a sandstorm”, Hunter says – and on the second, the surge was so strong that it was “unworkable”.
“The long and short of it is that we believe [the wreck] is there but it’s well and truly buried. The question becomes: how far down is it buried? Is it deep or just under the surface of the sand. That’s the next phase.”
Hunter hopes to begin that phase of the project “towards the end of this year, early next year”, when the weather is more likely to be favourable. He believes it will be an important moment when the wreck’s identity is finally confirmed – both for the local seafaring community in Robe, whose ancestors helped save the lives and sheltered the surviving crew members and buried the bodies of those who drowned, and for the nation as a whole.
“We know that there was a lot of Chinese migration to Australia in the 1850s,” he explains.
“But we don’t know a lot of the details of how it happened. We don’t know much about the ships that brought these migrants to Australia. What kinds of ships transported them? What were conditions like for both the passengers and crew? This shipwreck gives us an opportunity to look at all of those things, to delve into that history a bit deeper.”
Cruise ships again have again placed Robe on their ports of call after an absence of a few years.
Tourism Miniter Zoe Bettison said Guichen Bay would again welcome such vessels in 2025, 2026 and 2027.
She was speaking in the House of Assembly last week in reply to a query from Member for MacKillop Nick McBride.
A small cruise ship which was circumnavigating Australia had visited Robe in 2022.
The “Coral Adventurer” cast anchor in Guichen Bay and around 100 of passengers were ferried in the ship’s long boat to shore via the Lake Butler Marina.
It is understood the visit of the “Coral Adventurer” was the first time in living memory that a cruise ship was able to land passengers at Robe.
Back in 2016, weather and sea conditions conspired to prevent cruise ship passengers from coming ashore at Robe.
Hundreds of tourists aboard the P&O vessel the “Pacific Jewel” were expected to tour the region as far as Beachport and Coonawarra.
However, the shore excursions and day-trips were cancelled as the conditions in Guichen Bay were unsuitable for landing passengers.
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Home Travel A complete guide to Robe
Robe is one of Australia’s most charming and unspoilt holiday destinations
Located on Guichen Bay on South Australia’s southern coast
windswept coastline with several attractive and secluded beaches including the beautiful 11km-long stretch suitably called Long Beach
Robe is notable for its sophisticated town centre
which not only has a remarkable richness of historic buildings but also offers sophisticated dining opportunities
The real charm and character of Robe can best be experienced by walking the original streets
which have been little altered since they were built in the 1860s
It is a special town with a unique character that has been well protected from overdevelopment
The town of Robe is 336km south of Adelaide via the Princes Highway through Murray Bridge and along The Coorong
Robe was named after SA governor Frederick Holt Robe who sailed into Guichen Bay in 1846 aboard the government cutter Lapwing
Robe Visitor Information CentreMundy Terrace
robe.com.au
southaustralia.com
Image: Our Lady Star (Credit: John White Photos/Alamy Stock Photo)
a roundabout encircling a sand hill that was a focal point for the original town
Erected in 1863 as the office of the Harbour Master and Receiver of Wrecks
the customs house was built of limestone with brick quoins
on a five-sided block with a panoramic view of Guichen Bay
it is Robe’s Nautical Museum and contains much information and many artefacts about the Port of Robe
On the Guichen Bay shore below the Royal Circus is a simple monument to the Chinese: “During the years 1856–1858 16,500 Chinese landed near this spot and walked 200 miles to the Victorian Goldfields in search of gold.”
In the centre of the Royal Circus is a plinth supporting busts of Matthew Flinders and Nicolas Baudin
It celebrates the 1802 survey of the SA coast by one of the great English navigators of the 18th and 19th centuries
1774–1814; Sub Lieutenant Nicolas Baudin 1754–1803
Flinders & Baudin both engaged in scientific and survey work
had an unexpected meeting at Encounter Bay in 1802
The islands visible to the north are named Baudin Rocks
Guichen Bay was also named after the French Admiral De Guichen.”
Our Lady Star of the Sea is famous for its connection with Saint Mary MacKillop
Between 1867 and 1888 the Sisters of St Joseph
ran a school for parish children in two rooms attached to the church
Mary MacKillop visited the school regularly
Some observers have noted that the simplicity of the church reflects the poverty of local Catholic worshippers at the time it was built
many of whom were Irish servants and labourers
Standing 12.1m tall and 30.4m above sea level
is currently fenced off because erosion has made the limestone cliffs here dangerous
The old sign explains the Obelisk was “built in 1855 by local builder George Shivas at a cost of £230
the limestone was carted to the site by a 32-bullock wagon team… In 1862 the Obelisk was painted in alternate red and white horizontal bands and it can now be seen from a distance of 20 kilometres on a clear day.”
the area around Robe was home to the Boandik Aboriginal people
In 1802 Guichen Bay was named after Admiral De Guichen (left) by French explorer Nicolas Baudin
Governor Robe chose the site for the townand later in 1846 it was surveyed by Thomas Burr
By the 1850s Robe was the second-busiest SA port.
In 1855 large numbers of Irish and Scottish immigrants reached the port.
In 1856 the town became a landing point for Chinese goldminers trying to avoid taxes imposed at Victorian ports
Between 1856 and 1866 more than £1 million of wool was shipped from the port
The barque Koenig Wilhelm II was shipwrecked in Guichen Bay during a gale in 1857; a cannon located at the Royal Circus is thought to have come from it
In the 1920s and 1930s the town became a popular holiday destination
By the late 1930s Robe had developed into an important lobster-fishing port
In 1968 the first Robe Easter Classic surf carnival was held
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A new study has given key insights into South Australia’s coastal management by examining how Cape Dombey’s rocky headland in Robe on the state’s Limestone Coast influences waves
By collecting real-world data over summer and winter
the Flinders University researchers have identified key patterns in how sand moves past the headland
in a process known as ‘headland bypassing’
The study’s findings provide a detailed framework for understanding how headlands influence sand movement
providing explanations for why Robe’s popular tourist beaches are either building or eroding at various times
By refining how we measure and analyse headland bypassing
this research paves the way for better coastal management strategies
ensuring beaches remain stable and resilient in the face of changing wave and weather conditions
from the Beach and Dune Systems (BEADS) Lab at Flinders University
“This research provides a deeper understanding of the forces at play along the coastline of Robe,” says Ms Uphues
whose research is supported by an Enterprise Industry PhD Scholarship jointly funded by the District Council of Robe and Flinders University
“By studying how Cape Dombey’s headland shapes the movement of sand
we can better predict changes to the local beaches and develop more effective management strategies.”
Local government and the public are actively working on future management strategies
including discussions about the possible replication of the historic obelisk on Cape Dombey due to extensive erosion in recent years
The research is now underpinning the council’s draft Coastal Adaptation Strategy
which is set to be adopted at the Council’s meeting this month (12 February 2025)
The strategy aims to protect Robe’s coastline and adapt to the challenges of climate change and coastal erosion
The Robe obelisk
erected in 1855 as a ‘day guide’ for ships entering Guichen Bay
stands on the headland but faces eventual collapse due to the erosion of the soft sandstone cliffs
District Council of Robe Mayor Lisa Ruffell says the Flinders University research will play an important role in shaping the coastal challenges
“The findings from this study provide valuable insights into the dynamic processes that shape our coastline,” says Mayor Ruffell
“Understanding how the Cape Dombey headland affects the movement of sand is crucial as we work on our Coastal Adaptation Strategy
This will help us better manage our beaches
and ensure a resilient coastal environment for the future.”
As well as the prominent Cape Dombey headland
the area contains smaller headlands and sheltered beaches on its lee side
with its varying wave climate and submerged reefs
outlined in a new article in Marine Geology
found that the shape of the headland and underwater features significantly impact how waves behave as they move from offshore to inshore
When waves bend around the headland or break over submerged reefs
particularly when coming from the south or southwest during low water levels
This loss of energy changes how much sediment is transported towards beaches on the sheltered/downdrift site of the headland
The research identifies three distinct ways in which sand is transported around Cape Dombey:
SLOW movement in mild conditions – When waves are small and water levels are low
This slow process can help build up sand on the sheltered side of the headland
STRONG transport across the bay – When waves grow larger and water levels rise
currents start moving sand across the bay at rates up to 30 times higher than in the mild conditions
POWERFUL offshore transport – During storms
especially when waves come from the northwest
strong currents can pull sand away from the coast at rates up to 40 times higher than under mild conditions
These storm surges can significantly reduce sand on beaches
The article, ‘Sediment bypassing around a headland in a high-energy coastal environment’ (2025) by Charlotte FK Uphues
Arnold van Rooijen (University of Western Australia) and Patrick A Hesp has been published in the journal Marine Geology
Acknowledgements: The authors gratefully acknowledge the assistance of Robe District Council and Flinders University
A.Rooijen was supported by a Forrest Prospect Fellowship from the Forrest Research Foundation
Thanks also to Paul Regnier (Robe Professional Fishermen’s Association)
and Adrien Flament for their field assistance
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Robe’s Long Beach has been listed in eighth place in a recently published list of Australia’s Top 10 beaches
The online listing is published each year by Brad Farmer AM who describes himself as “an ambassador and beach expert”
the Robe District Council has endorsed his ranking and shared an aerial photo on its social media page
developers signalled their intentions to develop dozens of residential blocks at Long Beach
Mr Farmer has written several hundred words about each of his 2024 nominations including the following remarks about Long Beach
this South Australian delight on the fabulous Limestone Coast allows you to drive your 2WD car right up to the calm waters edge with its tightly packed fine sand and tidal characteristics,” Mr Farmer wrote
“Long Beach on Guichen Bay is a gently curved wide beach
with rock reefs fringing the bay to keep waves low along the shoreline
Long Beach is ideal to reach the beach without car parking hassles
the beach is a designated road with a speed of 25-40kph
so please do respect locally enforced beach safety rules
“There is a car free section if you prefer
“Other Robe beaches I’d recommend are Hoopers and Town Beach.”
As many as 500 recreational runners are again expected to descend on Robe next month
Given the huge success of the inaugural 2023 Robe Run event
the Adelaide Trail Runners have decided to host the annual Robe Run again on February 10
Early registrations have been lodged in large numbers giving organisers hope the 500+ figure of a year ago may be exceeded
the runners will skirt Guichen Bay and head as far as Long Beach
All races will start and finish near the foreshore and opposite the Robe Institute and war memorial
Participants in the aptly-named Robe Fun Run on February 9 will be obliged to wear a bath robe for the run/walk to the Cape Dombey Obelisk and return
“We would like to see as many runners as possible wearing their best ‘robe’ for a very casual run/jog/walk to The Obelisk and back,” a spokesperson said
“This is not a timed event and runners are welcome to cut it short if they wish
Entry fees range up to $159 for the marathon
The 2023 Robe Run event saw 453 standard entries and 45 local football entries into the different course options
This was well beyond the initial goal of about 200 entries
According to a staff report to Robe District Council
25% of the 453 entrants were visiting Robe for the first time
The report noted most entrants were travelling with 1-2 other people and so approximately 1000 people came to Robe
Spendmapp data showed there was a 14% increase in spending on the day of this event
The council accepted a staff recommendation to waive certain hire fees and provide for road closures to assist the 2024 Robe Run
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The former South East holiday house of a South Australian Governor has sold for $2.6m
Karatta House is a two storey mansion at Robe
It was sold by a local real estate firm via the expression of interest process and the new owners are understood to be members of a prominent Millicent farming family
Karatta House is situated on the shores of the Lake Butler Marina and close to the beach of Guichen Bay
Sir James Fergusson and his vice-regal entourage would spend their summer vacation at the seaside location
Sir James is credited with the naming of the township of Millicent after Millicent Glen (nee Short) who was one of his hosts during his stays at Mayura Station
The house is included on the Register of State Heritage and past owners include major landowners Henry Dutton and George Riddoch
The spacious rooms include the entry foyer
and six other bedrooms and three other bathrooms
another nearby and modern house at Robe has sold last summer for a reported $2.8m
Robe real estate remains in demand with a local family developing a 32-block housing subdivision near the golf course
once past the rubbish dump and where we had dumped air from our tyres
wound for a short distance through the dunes to a sandy track junction
From past experience I knew going right would drop me quickly onto a short, soft – very soft – beach where on numerous escapades I had always got bogged. Knowledge and discretion being the better part of valour, we turned left and wound our way south behind the first line of dunes that border this impressive coast and crossed the unmarked boundary into the Little Dip Conservation Park
A few hundred metres and another track took us to the beach where we cruised along the sand – still soft – to a string of low
The track swings inland here to skirt these bluffs
but there is plenty of opportunity to stop and wander down to the small beaches that are somewhat protected from the full force of the sea by the offshore reefs that are such a part of this wild
the Stony Rises access track leads away from the beach to a carpark and camping area and then another kilometre or so to the main access track that leads back into the coastal village of Robe
ROBE
where our morning adventure had started from
is fast becoming a bit of a trendy tourist destination with some 50 historic buildings and classy cafes along with a couple of good pubs
divers and four-wheelers wanting to explore the nearby coast
while its protected marina shelters a small but important crayfishing fleet
We first went there back in the 1960s chasing abalone (before licences) and crays
not that we were very successful in either as the untamed seas often laid waste to the best-laid plans
has long been inhabited by Aboriginal people and you’ll see signs of their feasts in the many shell middens that are scattered
For the most part the Bungandidj clan took in the country from around Robe south to the Victorian border
while the Meintangk group took in the country north to around Cape Jaffa
was named by the French Baudin expedition after a French Admiral
were named by Matthew Flinders in 1802 after Nicolas Baudin who he had met at Encounter Bay some time previously
For the next 30 odd years the bay was frequently visited by sealers and whalers
and their relationship with the original inhabitants of the area
In 1846 the town was officially settled and within 10 years was the second busiest port in South Australia
with the town’s famous obelisk on Cape Dombey
used to help guide ships into the port being built in 1852
trying to dodge the taxes imposed at Victorian ports
landed here and walked to the Victorian goldfields
around 15,000 Chinese disembarked while some 32 foreign ships from the USA
In the 1930s the town had become an important crayfishing base which it remains today and along with tourism
its prosperity is ensured and with its couple of picturesque and ideally located caravan parks
makes for a fabulous base to explore the coast and hinterland
OUR journey south of the Stony Rises continued
sometimes on the beaches and sometimes just behind the first line of dunes as we skirted around and over a rocky headland
the limestone bluffs and reefs becoming ever more common as we got closer to the Bishops Pate
where another track heads east and out of the park
skirts around the edge of the relatively large Lake Robe and is a popular access point for many
While the lake is officially a game reserve
its shallow saline waters attracts a lot of waders and waterbirds while the surrounding melaleuca scrub
the dense border of rushes and samphire flats is a haven for other smaller bush birds
It’s a top spot for birdwatching and there is always a few ’roos around along with the occasional emu to add variety to the nature viewing
The route south continues much the same as before with a few steep pinches and some puckering side slopes amongst some of the dunes
where it’s easy to misjudge a gear change or the required momentum to get you through easily
once stopped it’s difficult to get going again
the wheels digging down through the soft sand
Then you are in for a heartrending reverse back down the dune to start all over again
About 20km from Robe you come to Errington Beach where you need to swing east along the southernmost access track and head out to the main dirt road which takes you a few kilometres to the small protected bay of Nora Creina
This bay has a small settlement of fishing and holiday shacks close by and once you’ve enjoyed the protected waters of this bay
the route south leads onto Stinky Beach for the long challenging drive south to the seaside town of Beachport
with luck the sun will not have set and you can enjoy a beer and/or a meal at the pub before returning to Robe via the main road
Of course, there’s more beach and sand driving south of here, with one of the most challenging sections being south of the small community of Southend though the Canunda National Park to the even smaller hamlet of Carpenter Rocks
The beaches through this section remain very soft all year and we’d recommend you not chance your luck unless you are very experienced
have all the right gear and travel in the company of others
For something a little different we headed back to Robe and next day on to the town’s favourite stretch of sand
This beach is popular with many people as its firm sand stretches away to the north for quite some distance and its relatively protected waters makes it ideal for swimmers and kite boarders
As you close in on the northern end of the beach
you’ll find the sand is softer and you’ve left the crowds far behind
Just south of the small beach hamlet of Boatswain Point
a low bluff marks an exit point from the beach
We later found out you can cross the headland just inland from the sea and continue along a short beach to the small township
We headed inland and on dirt roads found our way north to Wright Bay where a small farmer-owned camping ground is popular with those in the know
FROM Wright Bay a farm road heads north just inland from the beach which after a few kilometres
degenerates into a sandy bush-lined track as it heads into the Bernouilli Conservation Reserve
This narrow strip of bushland leads to Cape Jaffa
and amongst the scrub and low dunes near the tip of the headland you will find the remains of the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse cottages
These cottages were built in 1872 for families of the lightkeepers who actually lived on the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse platform eight kilometres offshore on the Margaret Brock Reef
a wild and unprotected reef and the seas that swept in and around the manmade platform just above the reach of the tide would have been a little intimidating
the posting here for the men and their families was considered pretty easy and acted as a trial for new staff to see how they coped with the isolated life and the duties of a lightkeeper
while the light remained in active service till an automatic light was installed on this treacherous reef in the early 1970s
the original light and its structure was dismantled and taken to the mainland where it was erected and now acts as the centrepiece for the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse Museum in Kingston SE
Its striking steel structure is well-worth a visit
From the remains of the cottages you can drive along the beach northwards – or at least just behind the beach – but the deep seaweed along this stretch put us off and we headed inland on better tracks
then dirt road before meeting the bitumen just south of the small town of Cape Jaffa
The short wooden jetty here has been superseded by a big
new marina which has kind of proved to be a bit of a white elephant with few boats using it and the surrounding blocks of land unsold and unattended
We headed on to Kingston SE quickly finding the bakery in this pleasant seaside town where we enjoyed a coffee and reminisced about our latest adventure
one we hadn’t done before in all the many times we have been to Robe
That’s one of the great attractions of the beaches around Robe – there is always something new to discover and places to explore
For info on Robe and its accommodation and facilities go to www.robe.com.au
The Little Dip Conservation Park covers 2150ha and offers four very separate camping areas all of which demand you book a camping spot online
To check out what the small town of Beachport has to offer see: www.beachportsa.com.au
The Canunda NP protects 9625ha of coastal dunes south of Southend
The Cape Jaffa Lighthouse is maintained and operated by the National Trust of SA. For more info see: www.nationaltrust.org.au/places/cape-jaffa-lighthouse
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