Following his three-part analysis of the 2025 cru bourgeois reclassification
db’s Bordeaux correspondent finds there is much to be impressed with in by the consistent value for money that these wines represent even in current market conditions
Tasting notes – properties listed alphabetically by appellation
It is perhaps important note that all of the wines tasted below come from the (excellent) 2020 vintage
They are about as good as we can expect wines at this level to be
A second point to note is that these wines belong to the 2020 classification in that their labels reflect the results of that classification exercise
But none of these wines were of course tasted in the process producing the 2020 classification (since the fruit from which they would be made had not
each of these wines was tasted by the panel in determining the results of the 2025 reclassification (even if the results of that exercise can only be used on labels from the 2023 vintage onwards)
It is for that reason that I list below both the 2020 classification (as it appears on the labels of the 2020 vintage of these wines) and the results of the 2025 reclassification (in which these wines were assessed)
Du Cartillon 2020 (Haut-Médoc; cru bourgeois supérieur and
newly promoted to cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 31% Cabernet Sauvignon; 49% Merlot; 20% Petit Verdot; 12.5% alcohol)
in the vintage for a wine with nearly 50 per cent Merlot
almost to the point of a mild astringency above all on the finish
with a certain creaminess on the attack and an impressive clarity on the mid-palate
But I find the tannins increasingly coarse and even a touch dry towards the
Cissac 2020 (Haut-Medoc; cru bourgeois supérieur; 57.5% Cabernet Sauvignon; 38% Merlot; 4.5% Petit Verdot; a final yield of just 21 hl/ha due to significant mildew losses; 13% alcohol)
plenty of fresh wild heather and herbal elements and a plush and plump mid-palate generously filled with fresh juicy berry fruits
It’s maybe just a little strict on the finish
but there’s lots of like here – notably the sapidity and the freshness
Malescasse 2020 (Haut-Médoc; cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 58% Merlot; 37% Cabernet Sauvignon; 5% Petit Verdot; 13.5% alcohol)
Malescasse is reliably excellent and there is certainly no disappointments here in this fantastic vintage
plum and bramble fruit and a little cassis leafiness bringing additional lift and interest
yet plump and plush with grainy tannins picking out the details like a pointillist’s brush work
De Malleret 2020 (Haut-Médoc; cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 60% Cabernet Sauvignon; 37% Merlot; 3% Petit Verdot; aging in oak barrels
Another wine that very comfortably passes the cru bourgeois reclassification ‘sniff test’ – in the context of this tasting it is
With Stephane Derenoncourt as the consultant and its record of consistently over recent vintages
This is a little more open-textured than most
compact and chewy than some and with a little more oak influence too – though the wood is already well integrated in the quite hedonistic depths of the mid-palate
This is very much at the top end of the spectrum and remains
a twist of black pepper and super-svelte if considerable tannins – what’s not to like
Needs a little more time in bottle and will surely go the distance
Paloumey 2020 (Haut-Médoc; cru bourgeois supérieur and
newly promoted to cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 50% Cabernet Sauvignon; 44% Merlot; 3% Cabernet Franc; 3% Petit Verdot; 14% alcohol; Axel Marchal is the consultant here)
Plummy and quite spicy at first but with plenty of seemingly herb-encrusted dark berry fruits filling the palate as this builds with a little aeration
Impressively dense and compact if a little austere in the context of the vintage with lift and a pleasing menthol note on the finish
Rich and generous in this vintage with quite a refined finish
Sénilhac 2020 (Haut-Médoc; cru bourgeois; 41% Cabernet Sauvignon; 49% Merlot; 10% Petit Verdot; 13% alcohol)
earthy with quite a pleasingly wild and savage
to the north of Saint Estèphe and it tastes like it
There’s almost a hint of iodine and sea-spray in the air up here and the wines are a little more austere and foursquare in personality
But the tannins are soft on the attack and there’s plenty of energy to this
Not as complex as some and a little more coarse on the finish
but this certainly deserves its place in the classification
Du Taillan 2020 (Haut-Médoc; cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 89% Merlot; 11% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14% alcohol)
From Le Taillan-Médoc right on the outskirts of Bordeaux itself (we’re closer here to the congestion of the rocade than to Château Cantemerle!)
There’s a lot of Merlot in this and that explains the slightly higher level of alcohol
Axel Marchal is the consultant here which shows both a certain sense of ambition on the part of the property and the interest in the project and the potential seen by one of Bordeaux’s most solicited talents
And this is definitely a standout wine in the tasting
quite exotic and seductive – a word one doesn’t often associate with the cru bourgeoisie
The oak is present but very cleverly used here
serving to reinforce gently the more floral elements
quite indulgent and highly accessible already but fresh and lithe
Lalande 2020 (Listrac-Médoc; cru bourgeois; 65% Merlot; 30% Cabernet Sauvignon; 5% Petit Verdot; 12.5% alcohol)
with the perhaps better known Mayne-Lalande
this is almost a full degree of alcohol less than any of the other Merlot dominated wines
One of the lightest and most translucent of the entire tasting in the glass
but a little wisp-ish and lacking in depth and intensity
Lightly spiced with fresh red berry fruits – raspberries and strawberries
This is pure and precise but a little strict with even a touch of astringency on the finish
Reverdi 2020 (Listrac-Médoc; cru bourgeois supérieur and
newly promoted to cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 35% Merlot; 30% Cabernet Sauvignon; 35% Petit Verdot; from a tiny property of just 3 hectares; 13.5% alcohol)
We have an extraordinary 35% Petit Verdot here
bringing a slightly bulby floral note and a good scratching of fresh black pepper
but the high proportion of Petit Verdot here makes this a little difficult to appreciate at this still early stage
It comes across just a little vegetal and stern
Maybe not the most refined wine in the line-up but this certainly has plenty of character
D’Arsac 2020 (Margaux; cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 72% Cabernet Sauvignon; 28% Merlot; a final yield of 40 hl/ha; 13% alcohol; Stephane Derenencourt is the consultant here)
There’s lots to like here – above all the signature florality and minerality of the appellation
A delicate peony and iris note draws you into the aromatics where it enrobes and enriches the dark briary fruits
wild herbs – above all thyme and rosemary – reveal themselves
They are rapidly joined by the violets that stamp their identity on this wine
But don’t be deluded into thinking that this is a wine with no aging potential
For there is quite a tannic volume here ensuring that this will have a long life ahead of it
Another excellent wine from a now extremely reliable address
Mongravey 2020 (Margaux; cru bourgeois supérieur and
newly promoted to cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 70% Cabernet Sauvignon; 28% Merlot; 2% Cabernet Franc; 13.5% alcohol)
From Arsac and just a stone’s throw away from Château d’Arsac
both in terms of terroir (the fine gravel of the plateau of Arsac) and composition (the only difference really being a tiny splash of Cabernet Franc)
Yet this is a somewhat more effusive and exuberant wine and I sense both just a little more extraction and a little more use of oak (though all in moderation)
But we have a wine here that is just as expressive of its appellation
a little hint of spice box and a lovely plump and velvety mouthfeel
with a lovely return to the violet florality right on the finish
this richly deserves its promotion to cru bourgeois exceptionnel
Paveil de Luze 2020 (Margaux; cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 80% Cabernet Sauvignon; 20% Merlot; aging in oak barrels
moor-side heather and spring flowers with cherry
this is not massive but very fine and sinuous – just as a fine Margaux should be
bright and a super expression of the vintage and of its terroir
There’s just a little hint of dryness on the finish
Fleur la Mothe 2020 (Médoc; cru bourgeois supérieur; 45% Merlot; 40% Cabernet Sauvignon; 15% Petit Verdot; 13.5% alcohol)
There’s been a very steep progression here in recent years and the promotion to cru bourgeois supérieur in the last reclassification – and its reaffirmation in the new classification – are certainly merited
A wine owned and made by a group of consultant oenologues – and it really shows
but also a pleasing bright red berry fruitedness and generous floral and more herbal elements
There’s a lovely lavender and wild rosemary note that builds with aeration
with a well-defined and initially quite slender frame which builds and builds over the palate as the tannins grip and sculpt this
Pierre de Montignac 2020 (Médoc; cru bourgeois supérieur; 50% Merlot; 45% Cabernet Sauvignon; 5% Petit Verdot; 13.5% alcohol)
with a radiantly dark berry fruit generously enrobed in cedar and with subtle floral hints
soft and beguiling on the entry with a well-defined central spine tightly wrapped in those dark berry fruits – though they seem to lighten in hue as the wine breathes and starts to exhale
Menthol and eucalyptus bring lift to the finish
Preuillac 2020 (Médoc; cru bourgeois supérieur; 67% Merlot; 33% Cabernet Sauvignon; 13% alcohol)
From a well-situated vineyard of 30 hectares on a combination of gravel and clay-limestone terroirs in Lesparre
it was classified amongst the crus bourgeoisie in 1932 and upgraded in 2020
I find this nicely expressive aromatically
with a distinct almost estuarine ferrous twang to its minerality
a gentle sweet spice and plenty of ripe red and darker berry and stone fruits
I find this even more impressive in the mouth
The tannins are finely-grained and there’s a plump succulence to this that I like very much
St Bonnet 2020 (Médoc; cru bourgeois; 60% Merlot; 40% Cabernet Sauvignon; from 133 hectares on clay-gravel soils at Ordonnac
bright and quite aerial but lacking a little density and concentration in comparison to most of the wines in this tasting
there’s a pleasing hint of the cedar notes to come as this ages
this will drink well over the next 5 years but it lacks a little complexity
Lalaudey 2020 (Moulis-en-Medoc; cru bourgeois supérieur; 55% Cabernet Sauvignon; 40% Merlot; 5% Petit Verdot; 14% alcohol)
evident even through the cork taint masking the aromatics (if only lightly) of the first bottle (and
beguiling in its very intense dark berry fruitedness and seductive – not a word one associates often with the cru bourgeoisie (who can be a little austere and ‘proper’ at times)
I love the hint of green Szechuan peppercorn and the really leafy cassis notes – with almost a touch of redcurrant leaf and tomato stem reinforcing the tactile sense of freshness
This is a seriously beautiful bottle of wine and one of the highlights of the entire tasting
It’s no great surprise to find that Eric Boissenot is the consultant here (both in the sense that he is quick to spy potential and also fabulous in encouraging the very best of choices)
I’d easily place this amongst the crus bourgeois exceptionnels
but it’s perfectly possible that this is classed ‘supérieur’ simply because that’s the classification level the property sought
Competitive for ‘wine of the vintage’ status in the appellation (alongside Branas Grand-Poujeaux
De Côme 2020 (St-Estèphe; cru bourgeois supérieur; 45% Merlot; 45% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10% Petit Verdot; 13% alcohol; certified organic; Eric Boissenot is the consultant)
and distinctly herbal aromatically with a very northern Médocain briny and earthy mineral edge to it – indeed
this is actually quite saline and iodine-scented
Fresh with crunchy dark berry fruits and a hint of sage
I like the quality of the tannins and the distinct terroir signature that reminds me a little of Cos Labory
Le Crock 2020 (St Estèphe; cru bourgeois exceptionnel; 47% Cabernet Sauvignon; 40% Merlot; 7% Cabernet Franc; 6% Petit Verdot; 13.5% alcohol)
Dark-hued and charged with very dark berry and plum fruits with an earthy-gravelly note too and that rich
slightly ferrous-saline minerality of the appellation
A hint of cedar and a touch of sweet spice from the oak
but it’s less perceptible in the sultry depths of the mid-palate
charged with dark berry and stone fruits – brambles
bold and with more density and concentration than either the 2018 or 2019
This is very impressive – it’s always a stylish and refined wine but there is plenty of depth and substance to this too
are extremely fine-grained and they contribute to the cool and focussed precision of the juicy finale
A star of the classification and of the appellation
This is to Léoville-Poyferré what de Pez is to Pichon Comtesse de Lalande
Laffitte Carcasset 2020 (St Estèphe; cru bourgeois supérieur; 53% Cabernet Sauvignon; 44% Merlot; 3% Cabernet Franc; 13.5% alcohol; Hubert de Boüard is the consultant here)
creamily textured and enticing aromatically
this is a soft and initially seductive St Estèphe in this vintage with generous but ultra-fine-grained tannins
The attack is quite ample but the beady tannins immediately take things in charge coaxing and coercing the fruit until it straps itself quite tightly to a well-defined central spine
The effect is to remind one where this comes from and to render the wine a little austere by the time we arrive at a nicely-sustained finish
There’s lots of terroir and appellation character here and this feels (as it should in a way) slightly wild and untamed
Another wine that is made to go the distance and that will need a year or two in bottle before it is really accessible
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La Rédac'
la ville du Taillan-Médoc se pare de ses plus beaux habits de fête
Un rêve éveillé qui rayonne au national.
le village du Médoc attire Bordelais et touristes pour embarquer dans un rêve
Sur sa devenue célèbre allée Alfred-de-Musset
les maisons brillent de mille feux avec des décors et tableaux à couper le souffle
à la banquise féérique
en passant par le Père-Noël décliné sous toutes les formes
Les mises en scène sont nombreuses pour plonger dans l'univers de Santa
Le spectacle a lieu dès le début du mois de décembre, le 6 cette année, chaque jour de 18H à 22H. Pas moins de 5 maisons s'illuminent à la nuit tombée pour mettre des paillettes dans les yeux des petits et des plus grands
Grâce à un travail de titan réalisé par les habitants pendant de longues semaines
la magie opère immédiatement.
A découvrir jusqu'au 7 janvier !
La meilleure plage de France 2025 vient d'être élue en Gironde
Un jardin éphémère avec guinguette et chasse aux œufs s'installe à Bordeaux pour Pâques
Un nouveau train express va vous emmener à Barcelone en 45 minutes depuis Bordeaux
Vous utilisez un ancien navigateur. Ce site risque de ne pas s'afficher correctement. Mettez à jour votre navigateur pour améliorer votre expérience
set up a partnership in 2018 to identify the geothermal resources available in the local subsoil
The idea is for these resources to make a major contribution to the choice of renewable energy sources at regional level
The final stage of this study involves drilling three geothermal probes in Bègles
in order to test the thermal capacity of the subsoil
A little-known and largely unexplored potential is coming to light
A 3D model of the subsoil of Bordeaux Métropole
The Climate Plan adopted by Bordeaux Métropole is seeking to accelerate the transition to carbon-free energy through ambitious targets
it is planning for the massive deployment of renewable energies
with one of the main aims being to promote the geothermal energy sector
and taking advantage of the temperature of the rocks and the water flow
Bordeaux Metropole seized its first opportunities in this field in the early 1980s
when it drilled a number of geothermal wells to a depth of 1,000 metres
these wells still supply heat to vast housing complexes in Bordeaux-Mériadeck and Pessac-Saige and to the BA106 air base in Mérignac
this technology is once more the preferred choice for major heat network projects in the region: Plaine de Garonne
BRGM has been working with Bordeaux Metropole for over four years in order to bring to light an unsuspected and largely under-exploited potential at shallower depths
more appropriate to cover the needs of buildings of all sizes
The first step was to study the data from over 460 wells in order to model the layers of the subsoil in the Bordeaux area in 3D
Measurements of rock and groundwater temperatures in these wells revealed that the temperature increases rapidly with depth
They indicate that large quantities of energy at remarkably stable temperatures are available at a few dozen or few hundred metres below the surface
sufficient to heat and cool buildings all year round
Ambitious near-surface geothermal projects are currently underway in Mérignac
In order to increase the number of near-surface geothermal energy projects
two further questions need to be answered: what are the capacities of the various layers of rock in this area to conduct and store heat
And how could the flow of the many underground water tables – a specific feature of this region – work for or against future geothermal installations
Bordeaux Métropole and BRGM decided to conduct an original investigation campaign
drilling three geothermal probes to a depth of over 100m
Three sites were selected for these probes
The campaign starts on 22 August and will run for a period of two weeks
It will involve the use of a specially developed study device with temperature sensors
deployed over the full depth of the probes
Tests on ground capacity will also be carried out
The information gathered as part of this long-term study will enable us to characterise the subsoil in the Bordeaux area and make the results public
so that potential project owners and private engineering offices can easily identify the energy available beneath their feet in order to make enlightened decisions on the use of geothermal energy
The purpose of this agreement is to demonstrate the reliability of this technique
based on detailed knowledge of the subsoil
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By Metro Report International2020-03-03T11:34:00+00:00
FRANCE: A 5·5 km extension of Bordeaux tram Line D was opened on February 29
connecting Mairie du Bouscat to Eysines Cantinolle
The €250m project included nine stops and two car parks
which have all entered opened on the same day
Line D now runs 9·8 km from Carle Vernet to Eysines Cantinolle
including 4 km which is shared with Line C
A further extension of Line D northwest towards Le Taillan-Médoc and Saint-Médard-en-Jalles is currently being planned
FRANCE: A 5 km branch of Bordeaux tram Route A from Quatre Chemins to Bordeaux-Mérignac Airport was opened for revenue service at noon on April 29
The extension is single track with passing points at the five stops
FRANCE: Nouvelle-Aquitaine region has announced the first tentative steps towards the development of a proposed regional express network around Bordeaux
Bordeaux Métropole and Nouvelle-Aquitaine signed an accord in December 2018 to work on the development of an RER network to serve the Bordeaux metropolitan area over the ..
FRANCE: Brittany Ferries has announced plans to launch its first rail motorway service in 2021
a 980 km landbridge carrying unaccompanied lorry trailers between the Channel port of Cherbourg and Mouguerre close to the Spanish border near Bayonne
The rail service is intended to complement its ..
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©RussieseOChaque année apporte son lot de surprises
Bordeaux et sa Métropole poursuit sa mutation
toujours dans une identité plus verte et en faveur des piétons ou mobilités douces
Voici un petit tour d'horizon des grands projets attendus cette année.
le pont Simone Veil se verra finalement inauguré l'été prochain
5 ans de travaux -plusieurs retards dus à des complications - auront été nécessaires pour transformer cet édifice long de 550 mètres qui relie Bordeaux
il ouvrira ses 2x2 voies aux véhicules
sa piste cyclable bidirectionnelle de 4 mètres de large et ses voies dédiées aux transports en commun. Sans oublier sa vaste promenade piétonne offrant une vue imprenable sur la ville bordée par la Garonne
Le projet le plus ambitieux de ces dernières années est porté par l'agence néerlandaise OMA
Avec à cœur de moderniser ce spot très emprunté par les plus jeunes
le campus de Pessac va se métamorphoser pour dédier une plus large place aux mobilités douces
Une suite logique pour le campus qui a déjà rénové la quasi-totalité des bâtiments de l’Université Bordeaux Montaigne
un bâti de 12 hectares aux allures vieillottes qui date de 1966
de répondre aux nouveaux usages de ces résidents
Cette opération campus comprend la rénovation de voiries
des parvis et des esplanades ainsi que les abords immédiats des bâtiments
Après de longues années d'attente et des travaux en ville conséquents
la nouvelle ligne de bus express et 100% électrique verra le jour au premier quadrimestre 2024
Très attendue dans le paysage des transports
elle permettra de relier Saint-Aubin de Médoc à la gare Saint-Jean de Bordeaux en seulement 1 heure en passant par Mérignac
Saint-Médard-en-Jalles et le Taillan-Médoc avec 42 stations au total
Une solution de transport efficace et alternative à la voiture individuelle qui attend jusqu'à 50 000 voyageurs par jour pour des fréquences de passage estimées toutes les 5 minutes en heure de pointe
Coût du projet ? 154.6 millions d'euros financés par la Métropole
Porte d'entrée de la rive droite de Bordeaux
la célèbre place du lion va aussi avoir le droit à son réaménagement. Le but est de transformer ce carrefour en un lieu de vie apaisé et plus paisible
la ville va réduire la circulation motorisée
redynamiser l'activité commerciale et étendre la pacification du Pont de pierre à la place Stalingrad
Pour accueillir les 50 000 nouveaux habitants attendus
la place sera aussi dotée de jeux pour enfants et de pelouses ombragées pour pique-niquer
Un nouveau tracé de circulation serait envisagé pour réduire la pollution et les nuisances sonores.
Une phase de réflexion est entamée. Transformer les Allées de Tourny en Ramblas à la bordelaise : c'est l'idée de Pierre Hurmic
Avec une localisation hyper-centrale et un potentiel énorme (en témoigne le succès des regrettées Epicuriales)
les Allées de Tourny méritent selon monsieur le Maire d'être renaturées et pourquoi pas semi-piétonnes
Une concertation est actuellement menée pour faire de ce lieu une traversée plus animée où les restaurateurs seraient au coeur de la place
Il faudra tout de même être patient puisque les travaux ne devraient débuter qu'en 2027
il faudra être patients puisque seuls les premiers travaux commenceront en 2024
La Ligne à Grande Vitesse (LGV) Bordeaux-Toulouse verra bien le jour après moultes controverses. Le Grand projet ferroviaire du Sud-Ouest (GPSO) compte non seulement la ligne Bordeaux-Toulouse en 1h10 contre 2h20 actuellement mais aussi Bordeaux-Dax ainsi que des aménagements ferroviaires au sud de Bordeaux et au nord de Toulouse