A fire that partly damaged the famous ‘Zanzibar door’ entrance of Château Cos d’Estournel in St-Estèphe has been condemned as an ‘odious and criminal action’ by the second growth estate and was being investigated as an act of vandalism by local police A spokesperson for Cos d’Estournel said that an apparent arson attack on the Château’s ornate door on the night of 25 July was an attempt to destroy a ‘priceless piece of art’ the spokesperson said that the door was only partly damaged in the attack and that efforts were underway to restore it Local media carried an image of a black tarpaulin covering the estate’s so-called ‘Zanzibar door’ Police have started an investigation in suspected vandalism according to the Lesparre-Medoc Gendarmerie said A police spokesperson added that he had never seen anything of the kind before and was unable at this stage to say yet how the fire might have been started or why Insurers were assessing the cost of the damage is said to have been imported from the Sultan of Zanzibar’s palace and was installed by Cos d’Estournel’s eponymous first owner d’Estournel also built the exotic pagoda style towers that make the Château a unique Bordeaux landmark Although d’Estournel was forced to sell the estate to London bank Martyns in 1852 he is credited as the first to see the estate’s potential vinifying the best grapes separately as of 1811 two years before the estate achieved second growth status in the 1855 classification An exclusive report for Premium subscribers by Jane Anson one of France's most influential winemakers and owner of Château Les Trois Croix He had been battling cancer for more than a decade and developed an infection a few days earlier Léon was 75 years old and still an active winemaker He never had a job but a passion—wine—and it was a way of living for him around the world," his daughter Karine Léon told Wine Spectator "Patrick was a new type of man for Bordeaux," Tim Mondavi told Wine Spectator The two men worked as co-winemakers at Opus One for 16 years "The French wine world following World War II was provincial Patrick was part of a generation that had a more open perspective." making wines at Château Lascombes in Margaux and Château Castera in Lesparre-Médoc Léon entered the Mouton-Rothschild group in the early 1980s taking over as technical director in 1984 and eventually rising to group managing director on the board He oversaw winemaking at the Rothschilds’ many estates during his two decades working with them Mouton-Rothschild spread its wings to the world and that appealed to Patrick," said Mondavi active in syndicates in Bordeaux and Burgundy combined with a tremendous technical skill made him one of the forerunners to international winemakers we have today "He had an insatiable appetite for adventure and exploration in the world of wine," Opus One winemaker Michael Silacci told Wine Spectator "His curiosity and passion allowed him to make great wines in all colors from a wide range of grape varieties and in many countries." Léon retired from the Mouton-Rothschild group in 2004 he gained a reputation as a respected mentor and deep capacity to share were gifts that allowed his ‘students’ to learn and grow in a challenging Although Léon had retired from Mouton, he didn't retire from winemaking, working as an international consultant. In 2006, he began consulting with Alexis Lichine's son Sacha at Château d’Esclans in Provence, helping to create premium rosés Garrus and Whispering Angel. The brand was one of several that energized the rosé category in the United States Léon and his wife Yvette bought Château Les Trois Croix in 1995 The estate is run today by their son Bertrand Léon is also survived by his wife Yvette and their daughters Karine and Stéphanie Stay on top of important wine stories with Wine Spectator's free Breaking News Alerts. The former Los Angeles restaurateur and real estate developer followed his heart when … Consumers got the chance to taste dozens of outstanding wines in Chicago, with upcoming … The owner of Stoller and Chehalem wineries was devoted to the future of Willamette Valley … Inside the first U.S. location of the French luxury retailer, guests can enjoy fine wine at … Phase one of the Viticulture and Winery Technology program’s new home, funded by a $10 … The Tuscan wine company has purchased a minority stake in Tenute delle Terre Nere; De … Cafe Lavinal Perfect for an elegant, unfussy lunch, it has amazing food, a lively atmosphere, and a great selection of wines by the glass. Pl. Desquetbages, Pauillac; cafelavinal.com; plats from $18 Château Cordeillan-Bages This is where I go when I’m in the mood for something special. It’s the Médoc’s finest restaurant, and chef Jean-Luc Rocha, a friend, has two Michelin stars. Rte. Des Châteaux, Pauillac; cordeillanbages.com; plats from $58 Gambas and wine by the color rather than the label The only choice is whether you want your shrimp flambéed in pastis Le Bar des Amis I duck in here for a coffee after a trip to the market or a glass of wine or pastis after a day at the beach Le Gare Gourmande This place does refined bistro cooking with a slightly modern flair in a (tiny) old train station near many important wine villages. 3 Rte. des Châteaux, Labarde; la-gare-gourmande.fr; plats from $19 Le Lion d’Or A classic country restaurant (locals bring their own wine), it’s the best spot to stop after a drive through the vineyards. My favorites are the pigeon with foie gras and Armagnac, and the crème fraîche ice cream. 11 Rte. de Pauillac, Arcins; leliondor-arcins.fr; plats from $25 Château Cordeillan-Bages For five-star luxury, this is the place to go: an old château converted into a high-end hotel right in the middle of the vineyards. Rte. des Châteaux, Pauillac; cordeillanbages.com; doubles from $280 Château Loudenne Only a few miles from my new house, this is the “pink” château. It has the most beautiful rose garden and a few guest rooms that are gloriously old-fashioned and “French.” Every woman should sleep at least once in a pink palace. St-Yzans-de-Médoc; chateau-loudenne.com; doubles from $175 Château Ormes de Pez I’ve sent many friends here and they’re always over the moon gives you the warmest welcome and cooks you up a delicious feast des Ormes de Pez–St-Estephe; doubles from $165 Cave d’Ulysses of course— and this store has an extraordinary selection Côté Gironde Anne Bouteillier has the most beautiful antiques store in the Médoc I get lost in the tiles and get so much inspiration from her tableware Délices du Palais An old-fashioned gem that’s close to my heart It’s a temple for all things duck and for goodies like Sauternes Le Fournil J&J Wonderful pastries and the best baguette in the Médoc—rivaling the finest in Paris Mademoiselle de Margaux Soulac-sur-Mer Marché Municipal and vegetables and all sorts of curiosities Village Bages wine—that form a village at the doorstep of Château Lynch-Bages Mimi and Oddur’s daughter Louise on the beach in Soulac-sur-Mer There are stretches of seaside towns and unspoiled beaches We often take a picnic and head to the beach in Soulac-sur-Mer and Evolution 2 is a very good school for beginners We have many riding schools scattered around the region, but my favorite one for kids is the Centre Equestre Petits Chevaux, in Soulac-sur-Mer. (Passe du Franc Tireur; 33-5-56-73-91-01; les-petits-chevaux .com) In July you can pick girolles (chanterelles) up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse We understand that time is the greatest luxury which is why Condé Nast Traveler mines its network of experts and influencers so that you never waste a meal or a hotel stay wherever you are in the world Though soils and microclimates play a vital role in Pauillac Ian D'Agata finds it is the human touch that provides the key to this region's sheer magnetism and longevity.. After 25 years spent visiting Bordeaux’s vineyards up to five times a year I wrote in these pages that my favourite Bordeaux wines are St-Julien’s – but The answer is simple enough – while Pauillac may not offer the remarkable overall quality level of St-Julien (quality levels drop precipitously between Pauillac’s greatest wines and its less successful ones) it is undoubtedly where the highest quality peaks in Bordeaux are found Three of the five first growths named in the famous 1855 classification are in Pauillac (north to south as well as a long list of ‘super-seconds’ (Pontet- Canet (pictured below Pichon- Longueveille-Lalande and Lynch-Bages spring immediately to mind) Pauillac’s wines have always ranked among the Médoc’s elite; and not only domaine wines but also those from the area’s two main parishes St-Martin de Pauillac and St Lambert de Rignac This enviable reputation is well deserved – at their best the wines of Pauillac offer a balance of power and grace that is not found in Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blends made anywhere else And though ‘graceful Pauillac’ may seem an oxymoron Pauillac’s greatness lies in powerful wines that are rarely overripe brutes or needlessly extracted it is Pauillac that says ‘Bordeaux’ to the world generalisations about Pauillac’s wines are difficult because its soils and microclimates are extremely varied Roughly 90 minutes’ drive north of Bordeaux Pauillac’s soils and topography share features of each The appellation is characterised by four main soil types that originated millions of years ago during the different glaciations that formed the earth’s crust All these soil types are characterised by a strong gravel component one of the main reasons Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in Pauillac These four soils are found throughout Pauillac though each soil type dominates in specific areas In the southern reaches of the appellation the soil is rich in gravel deposited by the Gironde river during two Mindel glaciation periods (most books and articles usually mention Günzian gravels this is incorrect); these are called Mindel gravel soils type I and II and are characterised by sandy-clay subsoils rich in iron oxide; the latter are also gravelly and brownish-looking Interspersed among these two are the other two main soil types the somewhat confusingly named Mindel gravel I type 2 (large diameter gravels) and the Savoisian marl (calcareous soils with a heavy clay subsoil) The Mindel soils are the oldest (and therefore the first to be formed geologically) they are also the ones found at the highest altitudes This may seem a trivial point (given that in Bordeaux vineyards are less than 50m above sea level) but even a few metres makes a huge difference in Bordeaux’s continental climate Mindel II soil more commonly lines the lowerlying banks of the Gironde river the river eroded the banks and sculpted reliefs and troughs that characterise much of Bordeaux’s topography Pauillac was less affected by the hollowing-out process and remained a plateau with a higher sand content As Pauillac’s estates are located in different areas of the appellation and their vineyards sit on mixes of these different soil types you’d expect the wines to differ from each other; and you’d be correct the nature of the geological terroir of two of the most famous first growths in Pauillac with Mindel II gravel dominating the soils of Latour and Mindel I gravel those of Lafite-Rothschild differences between these two world-famous wines reflect these geological differences properties such as Château Batailley (on the high plateau at the back of Pauillac) or Lynch- Moussas (the most westerly of Pauillac’s great crus) or Grand-Puy-Lacoste (pictured below owned and run by Xavier Borie and his charming family and make wines that are naturally lighter and charming it’s not so simple: the human element always plays a very large role once owner Philippe Casteja took over the reins of sister properties Batailley and Lynch-Moussas new cellar innovations and the ongoing technical help of consultant winemaker and university professor Denis Dubordieu have had a recognisably positive effect on the wines the higher clay content of Pauillac’s northernmost soils (similarly to those of St-Estèphe) should make for bigger is the most graceful of all the first growths And while a soil’s capacity for ion exchange may be reflected in the minerality of its wines the soil’s bacterial diversity) influence the overall texture and aroma/flavour profile of wines proximity to the river is also all-important Vineyards located at the river’s edge bask in a microclimate 3-4°C higher on average than those inland a huge difference in an area where cool weather is not uncommon Winemaking also plays a huge role: for example cold-stabilised wines have a lower potassium concentration than those that aren’t just like wines aged in different kinds of new or used oak Pauillac is both the name of the appellation and its main town I like sitting at one of the simple cafés to read the paper or gaze across to the island of Partiras while munching on bichettes The latter has been especially developed by the Cazes family who have set up an outstanding hotel and restaurant (Château Cordeillan Bages a member of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux chain) a pastry shop and a solid café called Lavinal where I like to drop in bright and early for coffee and croissants A drive through the Pauillac appellation begins with world-famous Château Latour its most southern property; the vineyards are separated from those of Léoville-Las-Cases in St-Julien by a stream but stand out even more in poor years (for example and have a hallmark iron nuance discernible in most vintages Right next to Latour sits Château Pichon-Longueville-Comtesse de Lalande (or Pichon-Longueville-Lalande the architect who later also designed Latour’s main building Once a portion of the much larger Pichon estate owned by Pierre de Mazure de Rauzan it was born in 1850 when the property was divided in two (the other half being Pichon-Longueville Baron) Pichon-Longueville-Lalande is one of Pauillac’s more feminine wines no doubt thanks to an unusually high percentage of Merlot used (35% on average but in fact women have also played an important role managed the estate splendidly for years; in more recent times May-Eliane de Lencquesaing was long associated with this property’s fortunes world-class art glass collection is housed at the estate which today belongs to the Rouzaud family of Louis Roederer fame Pichon-Longueville Baron sits across the D2 road from Pichon-Longueville-Lalande; in my view its fairytale turreted castle is the Médoc’s most beautiful the wine opens with age to reveal an opulent Long-time cellarmaster Jean-René Matignon describes it as ‘having an austere breeding and unique class deriving from the combination of the gravelly brown soils to which Cabernet Sauvignon is especially adapted Haut- Bages-Libéral makes one of the most underrated wines of all Pauillac a classic Pauillac eschewing the voluptuously ripe fruit and soft pH values of so many others Owner Claire Villars-Lurton is a firm believer in the concept of ‘Haut Bages-ness’ ‘About half our vineyards sit close to the river’s edge in Haut-Bages,’ she says ‘The others are found on the other side of the road on the plateau of Bages; but it’s the former that are especially noteworthy located on the geological formation continuing south into St-Julien; Latour Léoville-Las-Cases and Ducru- Beaucaillou all have vineyards on it It is a soil rich not only in gravel but limestone which allows for wines of greater finesse and breeding.’ Villars- Lurton believes this specific portion of Pauillac makes truly distinctive wines but adds ‘Most Pauillac properties grow vines on a mosaic of different soils so differentiating between wines based on a particular sub-zone of Pauillac is not easy’ there are differences in our soils; but there are just too many factors at work for us to be able to say this is a wine from Bages Perhaps that might be possible in areas where vineyard sizes are very small’ general director Philippe Dhalluin believes there is a general ‘Pauillac-ness’ to the wines He rightly points out that many of Mouton’s vineyards are located close to those of Lafite Rothschild and yet the wines couldn’t be more different Another example are the wines of Château d’Armailhac it is characterised as much by its soils and winemaking as it is by its unique blend in which the old Cabernet Franc vines (of a much higher quality than what is usually found on the Left Bank) provide unique floral and noble cocoa aromas and flavours owning vines that grow on a mosaic of soil types located both closer and farther away to the river’s edge is part of the secret to Pauillac’s success the magic that is Pauillac results from a mix of place and human skill You don't have permission to access the page you requested What is this page?The website you are visiting is protected.For security reasons this page cannot be displayed Kathleen Buckley is a freelance travel and wine writer, specialising in the hospitality industry. Besides Decanter, she has worked with Harpers Wine & Spirit, The San Francisco Chronicle, Wine Business Monthly and the Oakland Tribune. She was also the European editor of WineToday.com a former wine website of New York Times Digital The beauty of the Médoc wine for wine lovers has always been in the glass Margaux and the other appellations are the closest we get to drinking in Mother Earth But when travellers arrive on the Left Bank is less hospitable: an austere landscape of vines no taller than your forearm growing from a stark punctuated by amazingly beautiful châteaux But the gap between the Médoc wine and the Médoc that is wine country is closing smart B&Bs and chambres d’hôtes are on the up Restaurants range from two-star Michelin through to intimate eateries and small owner/chef bistros The distance on a tourist route between the vineyards and the beaches is also shrinking making the reality of the Médoc wine location between the Gironde estuary and the Atlantic truly pleasurable reflects its proximity to the estuary and the ocean The chefs even show us that red wine and fish is not such a bad combination but in the case of the following ten personal favourites the experience is more than likely to prove worth the hit Tucked away behind Château Margaux’s vineyards Le Relais de Margaux was always an anchor for the travelling wine trade Yet it offered no more than reasonably good food and accommodation How things have changed for the better under the new ownership of Belgian hotel group Belhotel Chef Laurent Blanchard is offering a well-conceived seasonal menu that relies on freshness and tasty sauces including a jus made with carrots and thyme Blanchard is in the kitchen five nights a week; on Sunday and Monday The hotel has also benefitted from much-needed refurbishment The suites (t325 for two sharing) and junior suites with a small sitting room and separate entrance (t205 for two) look great The basic rooms (t180 for two) are undergoing renovation now competent staff and improved facilities which include internet connections it is now breaking into the superior bracket all of whom will personally recommend the place – as I do Claude Broussard prepares exceptional food that takes fresh This is one of the few places where you can easily find old vintages such as 1975 and 1976 The dining room is decorated with portraits by local artist André Massard (all are for sale) but if you are there on a fine day The lunch menu is t16; dinner is around t30 two fish and two meat dishes with cheese and dessert Le Pauillac’s atmosphere is brasserie casual and the menu focuses on seafood St-Julien is open daily for lunch and dinner Dynamic chef/owner Evelyne Abadieis took over this restaurant 18 months ago and it has quickly become a very popular spot is based on whatever she finds fresh in the market she featured an excellent version of the river eel dish Lamproie Bordelaise Abadieis’ other specialties include terrine de foie gras and delicious oysters and spinach with Margaux vinaigrette the room is buzzing with wine talk – lots of château owners eat here Sunday lunch is a day out for the Bordelais Located next door to the Margaux Maison du Vin A delightful place to spend a weekend: an 18th century château good tasting advice and comfortable rooms with beautiful antiques Each room has its own distinct décor; I’d recommend the Maia (t105) Or for true luxury go for the Ceridwen suite with private garden (t200) The estate produces Haut-Médoc and Margaux wines Olivier Millet is one of the region’s new chefs who sees a bright future ahead for Médoc wine tourism He opened La Table d’Olivier last spring The restaurant is perfect for summer dining on the terrace and is not far from Le Verdon where the estuary meets the ocean His food is a good representation of south-west cuisine with a bit of Basque thrown in There is a degustation menu (seven courses) and a seven-course gourmand menu The hidden advantage here is that Millet sells Médoc wines at cellar door prices The atmosphere is contemporary rustic rather than formal Yves and Marie-Jose de Tullio took over this restaurant 11 years ago with the aim of making the food and atmosphere merit the long drive along the Route des Châteaux and the huge windows make it a better day than night venue Chef Frédéric Giron offers a well-presented menu of local fish and produce The t53 degustation menu is good value: five plates and five glasses of matching wine The couple also have plans to add B&B accommodation The restaurant is open daily (except Tuesday) from mid-April through October; and Thursday to Sunday in the off-season is a beautiful place to spend a wine country weekend Its owners recently opened the estate for bed and breakfast accommodation The three rooms are nicely decorated and look out onto the vineyards It is the only classified estate with accommodation that is open to travellers not in the wine business The peaceful atmosphere and ability to taste the estate wines make this is a great find https://www.decanter.com/wine-travel/chateau-giscours-68428/ a member of the elite two-star Michelin club performs amazing feats with food fusion and presentation The t85 degustation menu is a series of very small portions interspersed with tiny but very tasty amuses bouches The à la carte menu is a range of vegetarian My unusual à la carte soy risotto was delicious but the artfully small portion left me wishing for more so best to ask for it while having a drink before dinner A Relais & Château hotel is a welcome companion to the restaurant for those who don’t fancy the 49km drive back to Bordeaux after dinner The hotel has undergone a makeover that leans heavily towards Ikea’s Scandinavian look; a spa and fitness centre has just opened Winery tours can be arranged through the hotel for t14 Chef Jean-Paul Barbier has a reputation that extends far beyond Médoc wine and you could find movie stars and diplomats at tables here unless you are with one of the châteaux owners The food is good regional cuisine and the lunch menu Barbier has a reputation for shunning tourists I like this place for its ‘down-home’ while on sunny Saturday afternoons it’s a young crowd’s hot spot This is not haute cuisine – far from it – but after a day’s tasting stop here for crevettes or mussels and a glass of basic white Across from La Guinguette is Chez Quin Quin on the river with a great view but mediocre food and service; head there for a drink it could provide the venue for one of the best afternoons you will ever have You will notice small fishing shacks jutting out from the river bank into the Gironde estuary these are available to rent for an afternoon through the Pauillac tourist office for less than t50 There are markets in several villages throughout the Médoc where you can buy food you could ask for a picnic lunch from your hotel A fishing pole isn’t necessary; but good humour and a corkscrew are