the TGV is not just a rail line but a lifeline—one that connects his biological relatives still ensconced in the village where he grew up and the gang he refers to as his Paris family with whom we are sharing a boozy lunch in a bistro a few blocks from Jacquemus’s studio and everyone is laughing and teasing one another the people who have supported and encouraged him since the earliest days of his Paris life including the model and influencer Jeanne Damas whose famous mouth—her pout is an Instagram legend—is today bearing down on a plate of rare boeuf which has at times functioned as a kind of second family for him But if he currently occupies a flat in the Bastille he still resides a good deal of the time in Mallemort—at least in his imagination shown in an empty swimming pool in 2013 with his friends as models pouring his deeply personal story straight onto his runway the designer has become the toast of the City of Light considered by many the brightest star among the newest members of the French fashion firmament now employs 30 people.) And he did it all by defying convention—by listening to his friends and his heart not thinking for a minute about courting corporate backing Instead of breaking into the business the old way—getting a degree and taking baby steps toward building his own label—Jacquemus burst onto the scene using a very clever (and enormously popular with more than 360,000 followers) Instagram account depicting a dream life of cheerful sexiness and shameless self-portraiture along with a series of frisky runway shows (He was among the first to tell his Instagram tales with three related images: “I thought it was stronger than a classic patchwork,” he explains.) The sunshine of southern France may flow from Jacquemus’s heart and suffuse his twisted and deconstructed shirtdresses but there is also a touch of melancholia in his work Jacquemus with his late mother (and muse for the spring 2018 collection) Valérie.Photo: Courtesy of Simon Porte Jacquemus“I just want to tell something about happiness,” he says from memories from my childhood—of seeing my mother after the beach all of them clearly interested in what the new guy had to say.) In a sense Jacquemus’s entire fashion career serves as a tribute to his mother’s style and spirit the designer was wandering dreamily around the Marché Saint-Pierre near Montmartre nearly a decade ago when he caught sight of a seamstress in a curtain shop “I asked her how much would it cost to make a skirt,” he says The next day I came back with the fabric and the drawing of the skirt This was how I started my first collection—it was very spontaneous and fun.” whom he is incredibly close to—she comes up to Paris for all of his shows—“He was a special child He wanted to do a thousand things and never left his mother alone He once made a skirt out of a curtain for her wearing caps and listening to hip-hop,” he says “I wanted to be like Serge Gainsbourg.” And indeed his creations are almost stereotypically French deeply cuffed trousers to the voluminous sleeves to the hourglass silhouettes has such a purely Gallic sensibility come barreling down a catwalk Jacquemus learned the ropes working at the Comme des Garçons store on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré creating his own collections in his off-hours the founder and president of Dover Street Market and husband of Comme des Garçons’ Rei Kawakubo remembers the designer from his days on the shop floor who has an eye for nascent talent—he nurtured Gosha Rubchinskiy among other transgressive wunderkinder—says that he was sold on Jacquemus from the first “I recognized immediately a freshness and an originality and so clear in his head about what he wants to do and what he wants to achieve.” Jacquemus was a child actor and a model; when he was eight he wrote to Jean Paul Gaultier—another Frenchman whose saucy irreverence is a major influence—offering his services as a stylist “You know what was my argument in the letter I will be the youngest stylist—so maybe you will have a lot of publicity around that,’ ” he recalls sometimes starring his three-year-old cousin Louis dressed in the earliest Jacquemus creations “The image was always something I was into—from the very beginning it was really clear to me that every collection would have a title like a French film.” Jacquemus still does all the visual merchandising and he says these tasks are among his greatest pleasures when I had no money to make clothes that were really precise the storytelling was stronger than the clothing,” he says “Everything was telling a story of this French girl—not the Parisian girl but the French girl.” he is the furthest thing from a sullen artiste scribbling and draping with no concern for his audience Virtually everything on his catwalk is on the racks at his showroom I’m finding the right balance between conceptual and spatial and something that’s wearable,” Jacquemus says “It’s really important to me to be true to my market.” His market—his fans—are young people like himself: people who grew up with the internet and don’t remember any other way of communicating All clothes and accessories by Jacquemus.Photographed by Zoe Ghertner February 2018Like so many of his generation Jacquemus seems to find the unexamined life not only not worth living but unimaginable He and Damas began swapping videos when she was thirteen “We were doing little stories with Tumblr—I think we were in love a little bit,” she tells me at our bistro lunch The only person here he didn’t get to know through social media is his chum Marion Ama­deo whom he met on the elementary school playground The pint-size polymath was featured in a car commercial and Amadeo simply walked up to him and said that’s me!” Jacquemus replied with the same supreme self-confidence—not cockiness or conceit but an aura of pride and accomplishment—that he still exhibits today And while the others may have found one another in cyberspace who corresponded with the designer online for four or five years before they met He and Jacquemus shared a flat in the early days a place Joubert describes as “a cave with a storefront in Montmartre with the living room on the street.” When I ask Jacquemus if he was disconcerted to be on full view to passersby he says no way: “I liked people to see me!” (Today Jacquemus lives by the Seine in a flat he describes as “full of colors: an orange sofa atop a blue carpet with red and yellow drawings on the walls My floor is stacked with books I’ve collected; my kitchen counter is covered with ceramics I’ve found at the flea market I am obsessed with very weird eighties Italian Plexiglas lamps.”) one member of the inner circle missing from the table only because he lives in Brooklyn: Jacquemus’s boyfriend the filmmaker and photographer Gordon von Steiner—and yes “It’s very intense and full of poetry,” Jacque­mus muses when he is asked about the romance “How to be even closer to him while I’m on the other side of the world is the question—but I have had more long-distance relationships with boys who were living in my own town The long distance is not what you see but what you feel.” The writer and documentarian Loïc Prigent was struck from the very beginning by the designer’s sweetness and honesty—a rarity in what Prigent calls “this sometimes way-too-jaded scene.” He was touched by how comfortable Jacquemus was with his country roots “He was proud of his grandmother’s donkey!” Prigent says he was not just thinking outside of the box—there was absolutely no box so real and genuine—and his clothes are sexy in a way no avant-garde label is; it’s never trashy There is a unique mix of confidence and wonderment that comes with this kind of early success—when you can feel at once destined for greatness and frankly stunned that you are getting anywhere at all. “I knew it would happen—I knew it was my life,” Jacquemus says, reflecting quietly on the trajectory of his last few years. “But at the same time, I still have so many things to tell, so many obsessions and stories! It’s the beginning for me.” In this story:Fashion Editor: Camilla Nickerson.Hair: Damien Boissinot; Makeup: Susie Sobol; Manicure: Patricia Gilson.Tailor: Florence Lesceq.Produced by Xavier Wakefield for Jake Productions. You are using an outdated browser. Please upgrade your browser or activate Google Chrome Frame to improve your experience The solar greenhouse was built by French developer Tenergie in 2017 and last year recorded a remarkable performance in terms of both agricultural ane electricity yield From pv magazine France In April 2017, French renewable energy developer Tenergie commissioned its first photovoltaic greenhouse based on its proprietary technology Tenairlux in the Bouches-du-Rhône region of southern France The plant was built with 265 W panels and has an installed power of 2.1 MW “Four years after the commissioning of this 33,000m² greenhouse with a yield of four tons/hectare for this first year of growing green asparagus from Provence after a period of diversified cultivation including zucchini [and] sweet potatoes during the first three years and a production of 3.1 GWh of green electricity which is the equivalent of the consumption of 700 households excluding heating,” the company wrote in a detailed report the expected agricultural yield is expected to increase to nine tons/hectare we co-built the specifications with Laurent Chabert market gardener and manager of family winery Domaine Saint Vincent so that his tool fully meets his expectations,” Tenergie president Nicolas Jeuffrain explained “Resolutely efficient and innovative thanks in particular to the installation of photovoltaic modules better light diffusion and better ventilation and a more uniform temperature.” Among the advantages of this greenhouse concept the installation of photovoltaic modules makes it possible to reduce the shadow cast on the ground (36% against 52% for a conventional greenhouse) The light is better exploited by the use of filtering and diffusing polycarbonate thus improving the uniformity of the light on the ground Ventilation based on a roof-opening system coupled with a full-side motorized opening–controlled according to the indoor climate and outdoor weather constraints–is claimed to allow precise climate control for this first year of growing asparagus in the Tenairlux greenhouse we are producing particularly exceptional product quality,” said Chabert adding that asparagus picking will end this year in mid-April thanks to its large volume and its very innovative design and temperature of the greenhouse are clearly optimized for better climate management Tenergie wants to develop around 30 greenhouses of this kind within three years About ten projects are currently under study The company is also working on other possible synergies with the agricultural world in particular on projects related to anaerobic digestion 75% of solar power plants operated by Tenergie are linked to the agricultural world such as greenhouses or the renovation of roofs of agricultural buildings Tenergie owns and operates a fleet of more than 1,000 solar and wind power plants with an installed capacity of 615 MW More articles from Joël Spaes self sustained with an electric production of about 5 kilowatts Excellent movement towards Clean green world Here in the US the asparagus market is dominated by unbelievably cheap product from Mexico and South America I’d be curious to hear whether this solar home grown asparagus can compete in the EU marketplace or whether the project thrives mainly because it produces cheap power Please be mindful of our community standards and website in this browser for the next time I comment Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value" By submitting this form you agree to pv magazine using your data for the purposes of publishing your comment Your personal data will only be disclosed or otherwise transmitted to third parties for the purposes of spam filtering or if this is necessary for technical maintenance of the website Any other transfer to third parties will not take place unless this is justified on the basis of applicable data protection regulations or if pv magazine is legally obliged to do so You may revoke this consent at any time with effect for the future in which case your personal data will be deleted immediately your data will be deleted if pv magazine has processed your request or the purpose of data storage is fulfilled Further information on data privacy can be found in our Data Protection Policy Δdocument.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value" This website uses cookies to anonymously count visitor numbers. View our privacy policy. × The cookie settings on this website are set to "allow cookies" to give you the best browsing experience possible If you continue to use this website without changing your cookie settings or you click "Accept" below then you are consenting to this Close Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker to host his spring/summer 2020 show (comprising both mens and womenswear for the first time) on the brand’s 10th anniversary there is the issue of navigating Valensole’s visiting influencer population (and itinerant selfie-stick-toting bridal parties) The opportunity to get a ‘gram amid the lavender extravaganza at any cost proves so irresistible that large road signs featuring posed stick figures have been erected to warn drivers of the incumbent Insta-hazards during June Spring Summer 2020Go RunwayIt’s here—at an unnamed location in the middle of a field—that Vogue meets Jacquemus just 24 hours before the first model takes to the runway on a 500-metre Pepto Bismol pink line between two rows of lavender a catwalk that pays homage to artists Christo and Jeanne-Claude and David Hockey’s Royal Academy installation It’s the third time that the designer has shown in the South of France but Valensole’s unique setting is the strongest statement of his evocative references bold vision and talent for big-brand thinking Jacquemus grew up an hour away in Mallemort and is drawn to the “pop” appeal of the lavender fields—drive-by selfies and all—knowingly citing the location as a Provençal cliche Jacquemus, Spring Summer 2020Go Runway“With this runway, some people will only remember the lavender,” he explains, turning to the dreamlike scene, where his close-knit team are road-testing the collection’s vertiginous wedge heels on the catwalk’s steep incline. “Others will see the similarity with the Hockney painting were the starting point for the collection Le Coup de Soleil or The Sunburn—a nod to both the designer’s “not too bourgeois” signature and the saturated colour palette of the clothes the title also encapsulates the glow on his cheeks after a day spent in the field Spring Summer 2020Go Runway“Yesterday I was looking at the moodboard it’s like a tequila sunrise,” he explains with a familiar note of mischief The show is also an expression of his newfound love of intoxicating prints This season boasts 35 prints to toast the celebratory mood (compared to just three in the last collection) At 29 years old, Jacquemus has a great deal to celebrate. He counts Rihanna, Dua Lipa and Charlene, Princess of Monaco, among his fans—and has a one million-strong Instagram following. He doesn’t pay anyone to wear his designs, and the fact that Beyoncé buys from his online store just like any other woman in pursuit of a knockout dress Spring Summer 2020Go Runway“Not just because they are a star but because they have everything and they chose to wear Jacquemus.” Rewind 10 years and the fledgling designer was already in disruptor-mode, holding flash-mob fashion shows in the street outside Dior during Paris Fashion Week his aim was “always to put no boundary between me and the public Today, the fact that Paris Fashion Week Mens ends with a landmark Jacquemus show in the South of France also matters. “I always want to be the voice that says there is something other than Paris,” he explains my studio is in Paris and my full team is in Paris but it’s also important to send another positive message that you can be from somewhere else When I started I was 19 years old and I would look at young designers and feel so far away from them Spring Summer 2020Go RunwayThe brand’s tipping point came in autumn/winter 2014 with what he dubs “the swimming pool show” a collection that caused an international sensation in the industry “It was something special because I was the only new designer in the schedule and the girls looked very masculine which was then quite unusual for Paris,” he says of the city’s pre-Vetements era But it was the joyful spring/summer 2016 collection—“the show with the hats”—he says With this fame came persistent rumours of job offers from large fashion houses which he now has a stock answer for: “I always say ‘I don’t need a big house Spring Summer 2020Go RunwayAs with the choice of runway setting the designer knows exactly what he’s doing “My mission is to be the name of a generation which is not just thinking about the future of the planet but also about aiming for happiness that’s not defined by having a lot of money.” The sun is beginning to set and the butterfly frenzy is drawing to a close the crouched influencers will be leaving soon Jacquemus casts an eye over his own yellow brick road through Provence’s lavender “When people ask me where I see myself in 10 years I want to follow something that drives me to happiness.” Meet the 19-year-old Indian model starring in Rihanna’s Fenty campaign Milan Fashion Week AW19: What to expect from the shows 14 couture moments that went down in fashion history Chioma and I discuss the on-going post-royal drama and whether the world is ready to move on his next career steps and his legendary holiday parties featuring rosemary cocktails We also connect with Chelsea Manning to hear about her new memoir ReadMe.txt her encyclopedic knowledge of fashion history her DJing side gig and her Savile Row bespoke suit that’s giving major Tar vibes Ryan Murphy Has Finally Found His Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy The Best Books of 2025 So Far Here’s Everything You Need to Know About Adolescence, the British Netflix Drama That’s Quickly Gone Viral “I Didn’t Want to Box Myself In”: On Mayhem, Lady Gaga Crafts Perfect Pop for a Chaotic World Listen to The Run-Through with Vogue a weekly podcast featuring the most exciting stories and hot takes from the worlds of culture Never miss a Vogue moment and get unlimited digital access for just $2 $1 per month Site managed by Simon wanted “an energy of love” for his Provencal union which took place on a sunny afternoon in the town hall square with guests attending from around the world Jacquemus tells Vogue all the details about the big day My father comes from Charleval and my mother comes from Mallemort I grew up in a small hamlet in the heart of Provence I wanted an outdoor wedding in the town hall square This was a gamble because last week it was still raining but I liked the village celebration aspect with a Pagnol-style countryside procession what touched me the most was seeing all of the village’s locals in the streets There were many familiar faces from my childhood and some had binoculars and they called my name as we passed by and clapped from the windows My grandfather was afraid that they would throw tomatoes at us because we are gay and that this village was celebrating a gay couple I was shooting the first images for Jacquemus menswear in Marseille with Marco’s brother I dream of falling in love with a guy from the South of France.’ He answered His name is Marco.’ On the train back home by in two days if you want.’ I think he was hungover “This is the path of my childhood at the foot of the Luberon My grandmother and my aunt live on one side and my other grandparents live in the middle Everyone lives three minutes away from one another This road is at the crossroads of our family a somewhat abandoned Provencal building that I have always loved It is a house that has been in their family for 300 years When we started to look for venues for the wedding we visited some very beautiful estates in Saint-Tropez ‘I don’t have my mom anymore and I need to be at the end of this road It would make me feel better.’ He immediately agreed and it was perfect and these trees were planted 300 years ago by the owners’ great-great-great grandfather It's simple and majestic at the same time.” The table setting along the road to Jacquemus’s childhood home so it was my grandmother who walked me down the aisle She was welcomed like a star in Charleval with her grandson on her arm It was the first wedding of any of her grandchildren very classic and at the same time have this piece of a veil in my pocket I found it poetic and it sent a nice message bringing some fragility and some femininity As well as the wedding cake where we were the living figurines on the top I had already sketched this cake for the cover of Vogue I dreamed of having a cover that takes on all of these codes of marriage and I found it beautiful to become our own figurines on the cake There were all these choux pastries lined up in tiers we were not sure if they were still edible.” “I loved the sensuality of the women in their transparent dresses. Mica was sublime in the golden light of the sunset. Dua Lipa was gorgeous There was a lot of talk about the transparency there were some comments about Dua Lipa’s white dress because it is traditionally viewed as inappropriate to wear white to a wedding It also seems that people could not believe their eyes when seeing Dua Lipa dancing to ‘Les Démons de minuit’ or ‘Voyage Dua Lipa really does like French songs and I love ‘Voyage not an after-party and weddings are about hits He played a few songs during the cocktail party including ‘C’est pas sérieux’ by the Chats Sauvages as a tribute to my uncle Daniel Jacquemus who was a bass player in Dick Rivers’ band My uncle was a local legend of the village Marco’s father came to join them on stage as a surprise we understand why you love the runway!’ My father was so comfortable that you would have thought was playing the Olympia He’s been on stage ever since he was young I have pictures of my dad with lipstick on.” Teki Latex had put together a great music lineup and there was something for everyone 200 yards of tulle over a white stretch bodycon dress and a large removable petticoat There was also a rack of 100 wedding dresses I was the last one standing—not something I am proud of!—at around 10 a.m My darling was sleeping in the wedding dresses a beautiful young man languishing in the tutus I should have taken more photos but I was exhausted.” we did not ask for a gift but rather for donations to the association so it was important to support this association in which I am involved We are nice and relaxed in our house in Lavandou We have been talking about nothing but sugar plums for the last month and a half I would like to have some more professional conversations!” The Danish Home Lighting Trend That Can Improve Your Mental Health In America’s Cities, Saunas Are Becoming the Hottest Social Spot Millie Bobby Brown Shares Her Favorite Paella Recipe—and Details About Her Wedding to Jake Bongiovi A Day-by-Day Guide to Hiking the Legendary Nakasendo Trail in Japan whose coach walked out on them two weeks ago and without most of their regulars held Togo to a 1-1 draw in their friendly international at the Stade Municipal Mallemort near Marseille in France on Sunday Equatorial Guinea’s coach Angel Lopez quit the side a fortnight ago after they had secured place in the group phase of the World Cup qualifiers and the team went into Sunday’s friendly without captain Emilio Nsue key midfielder Pedro Obiang and Carlos Akapo Josete Miranda and Basilio Ndong because of injury But they still managed to take the lead through Pablo Ganet before Koffi Franco Atchou equalised in the 50th minute Ganet banged in a second minute free kick but Togo quickly look charge of the game and had chances for Fodoh Laba (17th and 28th) Gilles Sunu (13th) and Ouro-Sama Hakim (44th minute) The equaliser was came from Matthieu Dossèvi’s corner which was acrobatically struck by Sunu but parried away only for Atchou to head home the equaliser Togo lost 2-1 to the Cape Verde Islands last Thursday at Stade Parsemain at Fos Sur Mer near Marseille 2-1 to the Cape Verde Islands Next month both countries begin their 2021 Africa Cup of Nations qualifiers Togo are in Group G where they host Comoros Islands first and then go away to Kenya Equatorial Guinea first taken on Tanzania away and then host Tunisia