Nougat made in the French town of Montélimar and its immediate surroundings has been awarded European Union geographical protected status The Indication Géographique Protégée (IGP, Protected Geographical Indication, PGI) status was awarded on Tuesday can now only be considered real Montélimar produce if it is made in a specific area of the Drôme (Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes) town and its surroundings including a specific kind of recipe and ingredients the European Commission wrote: “This type of nougat is made exclusively in and around Montélimar using specific know-how developed over several centuries and with ingredients that comply with ancient recipes “Whether hard and ‘brittle’ or soft and ‘chewy’ it will join the list of more than 3,500 products already protected in the EU,” it said To qualify for the PGI the nougat must be made in Montélimar or its surroundings with sweeteners - especially honey - and a filling of almonds It must meet other certain criteria also including a 30% filling (roasted sweet almonds or with 2% pistachios) and a specific quantity of honey "[The PGI] is a great source of pride,” said Marie-Claude Stoffel, co-president of the Montélimar nougat manufacturers’ union, le syndicat des fabricants de nougat de Montélimar, to FranceInfo “We are a small industry representing 200 direct jobs There are 13 manufacturers involved in the process.” The town produces 3,000 tonnes of nougat per year Japanese pastry chef Mori Yoshida creates refined cakes and desserts Columnist Sue Adams gives her tips on how to get the best out of the long season in France Household favourites including courgettes and strawberries become commonplace this month The Local Europe ABVästmannagatan 43113 25 StockholmSweden Jordan Bardella said the changes they proposed would be "constitute a veritable legal and political shield in the face of the current and the coming 'migratory flooding'" Centrist Prime Minister Francois Bayrou drew rebukes for using the same terminology to describe migrants earlier this week language he had himself borrowed from the far right READ ALSO: Immigration row piles pressure on French PM after 'flooding' remark While National Rally deputies and hardliners inside his administration applauded him in parliament the Socialist Party cancelled talks with the government Without their support in an upcoming budget vote leaving France without a government for the second time in two months Bardella would not be drawn into whether his party would vote against the government in any eventual vote of no confidence "The decision is not taken," Bardella told reporters after having addressed around 3,000 supporters The government would fall if both the Socialists and National Rally joined with far-left parties to sanction Bayrou's government as they did to bring down his predecessor Michel Barnier in early December Legal experts have said that a referendum on immigration could face constitutional obstacles Please log in here to leave a comment Many a French summer holidaymaker in the 1950s stuck in an un-air-conditioned backseat on their way to the coast would grow gleeful over an odd but charming sight: windows rolling down to welcome the wares of (car)door to (car)door nougat salesmen peddling the confection along the infamous seven-hour traffic jams congesting the Nationale 7 trunk road—N7 for short taffy-like treat is emblematic of the local terroir featuring Provence’s lavender honey and sweet almonds While nougat can be found anywhere from Marseille to Avignon located about halfway between Lyon and the Mediterranean coast has been a cradle for the confection for centuries—and the presence of nougatiers on the Nationale was a distinctly Montélimar phenomenon “The N7 made … I’m not sure if we can say the fortune of Montélimar,” says Didier Honnoré, co-president of Arnaud Soubeyran “But it definitely boosted the economy.” transforming what had been a pastry-chef side hustle of sorts into its own industry But this heyday came to a swift end with the arrival of the freeway in the 1970s The new road cut travel times to the coast but bypassed Montélimar forcing the majority of its nougatiers to close their doors If not for the ingenuity of local producers Montélimar’s unique confection might have been lost forever The origin of nougat predates this tale of two highways by about three millennia, according to Marie-Claude Stoffel, the CEO of Chabert & Guillot Montélimar’s largest nougat producer and the co-president of the local nougat-makers’ guild The confection that would inspire not just nougat but Italian torrone and Spanish turrón came to the Mediterranean in the Middle Ages by way of the Phoenicians “It looked like a meringue but with walnuts,” Stoffel says of the treat then-known as gâteau de noix While its first French port of call was likely Marseille the relative paucity of nuts nearby meant that the recipe found a more permanent home elsewhere notably in Montélimar and the surrounding regions of Drôme and Ardèche where agronomist Olivier de Serres introduced almond trees in the 16th century known for its volatility and strength (and for being described by author Peter Mayle as being strong enough to blow the ears off a donkey) proved “magnificent” for nougat-making Its drying effect on the soft confection renders a specific texture that makes it at once tough and tender—and less likely than other varieties to stick to the teeth And while this led to nascent nougat industries in nearby towns such as Sault in the Vaucluse or Vallon-Pont d’Arc in the Ardèche Montélimar’s nougat soon rose to fame thanks to a lucky location and advancements in transportation The Paris-Lyon-Marseille rail line (PLM for short) was built in 1849 passing through Montélimar on its way to larger cities farther south the trains ran on steam and needed to stop to replenish their water and coal “And the obligatory stop before Marseille,” she says Local nougat-makers would arrive at the station with baskets full of treats to sell to passengers through the train windows Montélimar nougat was traveling across France president of the French Republic from 1899 to 1906 and the former mayor of Montélimar who regularly offered it to visiting heads of state “It was so over the top that caricaturists always drew him with a bar of nougat on his back,” says Stoffel Montélimar nougat’s first golden age would soon come to an end “Trains stopped less and less,” says Honnoré “and people stopped off in Montélimar less and less.” It took the advent of the now-infamous French paid holidays for the candy to get its second wind: The three weeks of leave granted in 1956 rose to four weeks in 1969 Northerners suddenly had enough time to holiday on the southern coast and the Nationale 7 was the only way to get there “You could get up to seven or eight hours of traffic jams,” says Stoffel and the hundreds of pastry chefs and nougatiers would come around and sell nougat.” But modernization reared its ugly head once more in the late 1970s “The day that the congestion on the Nationale 7 was relieved,” says Stoffel “everyone started taking the freeway No one came to Montélimar anymore.” Local nougatiers refused to sit on their laurels the fourth-generation head of Chabert & Guillot they pushed for the right to sell their wares at the freeway’s new Montélimar rest stop on two conditions: All producers must be represented and they must band together to define a shared recipe the recipe called for a minimum of 30 percent nuts (either all almond or 28 percent almond and 2 percent pistachio) and 25 percent honey as well as sugar and a binder like egg whites Producers could choose to stand out in small ways but most variations preclude the product from using the name—and attract scorn from producers of the real thing outdoor markets throughout France often welcome peddlers of massive blocks of nougat sold by weight and garnished with all manner of fillings of the 22 nougat producers—and hundreds of sellers—who once worked in Montélimar of which Arnaud Soubeyran is the oldest and Chabert & Guillot the largest But the issues keeping this delicacy from the masses aren’t limited to access Dry climes have become more of an impediment due to the effects of climate change the Drôme saw just 794 millimeters of rainfall posing a problem for sourcing both honey and almonds This challenge is part of what drove Didier Honnoré’s son to leave his IT career in Paris to learn the art of almonds and honey in Châteauneuf-du-Rhône he purchased local land to plant almond trees which he now cultivates using organic methods 100 percent of his almond crop goes to Arnaud Soubeyran used in a recipe he created with his brother Quentin made with Thomas’s lavender honey and skin-on organic almonds Thomas’s production represents a mere fraction of what Arnaud Soubeyran needs to respond to market demand they still remain committed to sourcing locally: Honey comes exclusively from the Drôme and nearby Vaucluse and Ardèche “I’m going to hurt your feelings but we don’t use Californian almonds,” says Didier Honnoré alluding to the slight American accent I maintain despite living in France for 16 years He cites intensive agriculture and “in our opinion not enough taste” as deterrents to my native terroir (I assure him I’m far from offended by his adherence to tradition.) Their nougat’s honey may hail from France or Spain as compared to the 20 tons of almonds used by Arnaud Soubeyran Chabert & Guillot needs between 600 and 800 tons “it doesn’t want to sell them all to me.” the company relies on Spanish and Californian almonds though Stoffel hopes that won’t continue for long she signed a partnership with Compagnie des Amandes—a private investment fund with a goal of promoting and supporting almond producers in Provence to buy 150 tons of French almonds each year These moves toward an ever-more local product have spurred producers to protect the industry “with gelatin and all sorts of things.” While the original charter allowed such additives the nougatiers of Montélimar are currently petitioning for an IGP a precursor to the AOC and AOP designations that define and protect such products of French terroir as Champagne This IGP would notably narrow the production area to just 14 Rhone Valley towns and forbid the use of additives including the gelatin that can hinder the development of that perfectly chewy never-sticky texture in products worthy of the name nougat de Montélimar there are dishonest people taking advantage of artisan producers to do whatever they want,” says Honnoré who remains committed to educating consumers about his product—especially now that an increasing interest in slow travel has led to an influx of local tourists intrigued by the area’s heritage Despite the presence of the faster freeway more vacationers are opting to spend two or three more picturesque days driving along the Nationale 7 again Along with the return of once-shuttered hotels and routier restaurants along the historic route Montélimar’s nougatiers are experiencing a revival Arnaud Soubeyran opened its first “museum”—a roped-off section of the factory where curious customers could watch nougatiers in action and learn the history of the local confection immersive experience with audio and video installations as well as games aimed at younger visitors The updated museum opened just before the pandemic and was swiftly shuttered the area was hit with an unusual and unexpected storm stretching out over “I don’t know how many hundred meters,” he says He and his staff stepped out into the deluge offering potential visitors a sweet treat while they waited much as their ancestors had decades—and even centuries—before he was “so embarrassed,” each of the waiting patrons welcomed him with a smile We depend on ad revenue to craft and curate stories about the world’s hidden wonders Consider supporting our work by becoming a member for as little as $5 a month Follow us on Twitter to get the latest on the world's hidden wonders Like us on Facebook to get the latest on the world's hidden wonders You don't have permission to access the page you requested What is this page?The website you are visiting is protected.For security reasons this page cannot be displayed Orestes Gutierrez was angry.1 This wasn’t unusual. He arrived agitated to most every general assembly of the Asociación Montelimar Bendición de Dios (AMBED). AMBED is a Nicaraguan environmental justice organization composed of more than 300 current and former employees of a sugarcane plantation owned by the Montelimar Corporation AMBED’s general assemblies usually take place on Sundays, in a shaded area on a hill near a highway that parallels the Pacific coast. From this hill, the Montelimar plantation still looks much as it did in the 1970s when Nicaraguan dictator Anastasio Somoza Debayle kept a vacation home on the picturesque beach nearby and wells that have helped ensure that sugarcane remains a lucrative part of Nicaragua’s agricultural economy and fruit—have become less and less viable The sugarcane monoculture is almost sublime in its vast greenness Generations of men and women like Orestes have found seasonal employment planting often while maintaining their own family farms CKDnt patient and former sugarcane cutter Elionox Mónica (left) discusses the founding of AMBED with one of his neighbors (right) Solving that mystery has attracted a host of experts to Central America, where several studies by epidemiologists and nephrologists are ongoing I am sometimes asked by these global health experts how the complexities of epidemiological research—its slow speed its technical limitations—might be better translated for people like Orestes and grassroots organizations like AMBED I frequently hear some version of the frustrated lament “It’s hard for these people to understand.” But as far as Orestes and AMBED’s environmental justice activists were concerned the causes lay in the plantation landscape itself Occupational health experts compare the work of planting and harvesting sugarcane to running a half marathon in 90-plus degree weather and doing the same thing again for the next five days Even though this is physically taxing work there are no other jobs as reliable as this one in this part of the world Orestes arrived at the offices of the Montelimar Corporation ready to begin another harvest season just as he had done since he was 13 years old when he joined his father and uncle as a cabra (literally A village on the edge of the Montelimar plantation Many people live within a few feet of the cane fields and they blame aerial fumigation for respiratory disease and the loss of their household fruit and vegetable crops But Orestes did not join the harvest that season a medical exam had been a prerequisite for employment at the plantation Tests on Orestes’s blood revealed unusually high concentrations of creatinine Creatinine is a waste protein secreted during muscle metabolism and Elevated creatinine levels are a key biomarker for kidney failure Orestes wasn’t given access to his medical records and he didn’t get much of an explanation from the Montelimar Corporation’s medical staff He received no advice about how to access retirement or social security benefits guaranteed to him by the state Over the course of the late 1990s and early 2000s Orestes and hundreds of other would-be workers some with more than 20 years of experience cutting cane This environmental justice movement now finds itself in an awkward engagement with the science and practice of global health the AMBED grievance went beyond the disease It also mentioned the long-term inequities and environmental costs of sugarcane plantation production: low pay; poor record keeping; exposure of people and animals to aerial pesticides; land tenure insecurity; and a lack of consistent access to potable water Though it was filed with an arm of the World Bank AMBED’s grievance was a place-based document AMBED entered a series of CAO-mediated dialogues with the Montelimar Corporation designed to search collaboratively for a resolution the CKDnt epidemic quickly upstaged concerns about water quality Among AMBED’s early achievements was an agreement by the Montelimar Corporation to subsidize CKDnt patients’ journeys to dialysis clinics in Managua Dialysis patients spend three of every seven days going to dialysis Former sugarcane workers with CKDnt discuss the effort to secure social security benefits Frustrated by the slow pace of the mediation process he resigned his position in AMBED’s leadership he attended the regular general assemblies where the remaining leaders would update the membership on the progress they had made including reinstating social security payments that had been denied to dismissed workers finding alternative employment opportunities for ex-workers and their families searching for answers to the question of why so many people were getting sick the company continues to return to the dialogue table the CKDnt epidemic was already well known in Nicaragua and across Central America internationally funded studies of CKDnt have brought people like Orestes into closer contact with epidemiologists and doctors from as far away as Sweden was initially convinced that the regular application of pesticides from drones and helicopters was infusing water little hard evidence has emerged to support this claim Some studies have found that the heat exposure and chronic dehydration that result from one of the world’s most strenuous jobs put excessive strain on the kidneys news reports frequently describe CKDnt as a “mystery disease.” “I worked cutting cane for 40 years,” he told his fellow AMBED members in November 2017 I saw a group of students from the National University out here supposedly studying this disease that affects us… And it pains me and it’s awkward to open my mouth and speak in such crude terms about people who supposedly are doing research People like Orestes are also asked to be patient—to “try and understand”—the technical challenges of disease detection Doctors and advisors frequently tell workers that CKDnt is “multifactorial.” Two factors that seem to correlate with the disease The accumulated intergenerational biological and psychological burdens of decades of intense monoculture are as hard to quantify as they are to mobilize against the Montelimar Corporation is only the most recent owner of this plantation a product of dictatorship and exploitation which remains the center of much EJ scholarship and activism similar to those in which AMBED and the Montelimar Corporation are involved Such negotiations depend on the assumption that at the dialogue table But as place-based problems become biomedical problems members of EJ movements can feel compelled to defer to the expertise of biomedical authorities may simply feel themselves being taken for ignorant “fools.” Orestes doesn’t represent AMBED as a whole but his frustration comes from watching a movement aimed at solving a set of place-based concerns—about water access about disease—risk becoming drawn into the orbit of global health Orestes’ sense that he is being “fooled” by well-meaning health researchers indicates that the promise of solving a medical mystery is not enough there is no clear place for environmental justice in global health An irrigation canal on the Montelimar plantation Village residents use water from these canals As more workers across the country face CKDnt and push for insurance benefits Nicaragua’s social security crisis continues Nicaragua’s sugarcane corporations (there are four operating in the country at the moment) have consistently suggested that CKDnt is not a problem of labor conditions Company officials have asserted that some combination of lifestyle and genetic factors must be to blame Perhaps the workers who are sick or dying with CKDnt drank too much alcohol after work or consumed too many sugary drinks to beat the heat while on the job Perhaps they took too many non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs to dull the pain of over-exertion (High doses of NSAIDs can compromise kidney function.) My work has taken place in the shadow of AMBED’s activities and I have aided them in obtaining a small grant and introducing them to other scholars Though I have not been a party to the CAO mediation I find much to admire in the willingness of ex-plantation workers to sit across a dialogue table from representatives of their former employers the company’s representatives will continue to be more politically influential AMBED’s trust in the process of nonviolent mediated settlement is inclusive popular Sandinista revolution that toppled the Somoza dynasty in 1979 The group’s willingness to make its general assemblies a safe democratic space in which members like Orestes feel welcome to vent their anger is another such legacy I have been thinking quite a bit about the term “accompaniment.” In Nicaragua accompaniment (acompañamiento) also has roots in the revolutionary period It referred then to the work of international solidarity activists who chose to defy the U.S effort to undermine the Sandinista cause by joining the poor in agricultural labor and I plan to continue giving AMBED my support Accompaniment does not alleviate inequality What accompaniment can do is permit the brief are unavoidable elements of nonviolent conflict resolution Though both patients and patience are wearing thin AMBED is dedicated to working through double binds Editor’s note: This piece has been updated from an earlier version published on February 8 Orestes is a psuedonym.  Tags: You must be logged in to post a comment Edge Effects is a digital magazine about environmental issues produced by graduate students at the Center for Culture, History, and Environment (CHE), a research center within the Nelson Institute for Environmental Studies at the University of Wisconsin–Madison Contact Us Edge Effects c/o CHE 550 North Park Street, Room 280 Madison, Wisconsin 53706edgeeffects@nelson.wisc.edu Powered by  - Designed with Hueman Pro 2001 I smelled it as soon as I stepped off the train in Montelimar Suddenly aware that my stomach was a little unsettled from watching the scenery whiz past the window at 300 kilometers an hour As Parisian families beginning their vacation pressed past me on the platform I imagined for one simultaneously awful and delightful moment that the entire town reeked with the unmistakable smell of warm egg whites and sugar because Montelimar is the nougat capital of the world One of the little towns that speckle the triangle formed by Provence Montelimar is 650 kilometers southeast of Paris about three hours by the TGV ( Train a Grande Vitesse ) which in early spring are gnarled little stubs sprouting fresh pale leaves; and fields of lavender grown for cosmetics and herbes de Provence orderly rows of silvery green tufts which by summer turn a blaze of purple I had known nougat for years as a candy you could buy at grocery stores in Paris and regularly beseeched anyone I knew traveling to France I was now on the brink of a sticky five-day nougat binge The region had plenty to offer in the way of dietary balance: soupe au pistou fresh sheep and goats milk cheeses of every imaginable description the meaty reds and refreshing white wines of the Cotes du Rhone Nevertheless I had a feeling that this trip was going to make me sick forget the fluffy center of a Milky Way bar Nougat de Montelimar is a dense white candy made of egg whites studded with toasted almonds and pistachios In composition it’s not all that different from a marshmallow and in fact it has some attributes in common with the hard edges of a perfectly stale Jet Puff although it lacks the marshmallow’s slippery There are two standard varieties of nougat: soft nougat ( tendre ) which is initially crunchy but dissolves grudgingly as you chew There are many variations on the two basic types including a less common and harder caramel-colored variety called nougatine lavender flowers or chunks of candied orange peel and in all the colors and flavors of a box of Froot Loops A spreadable version called creme de nougat has the slightly malted taste of processed milk and can be used to fill tarts and Breton-style buckwheat crepes or eaten straight from the jar with a spoon in bags of bite-size squares and in chocolate-covered bars that resemble Three Musketeers (to about the degree that a rum baba resembles a Twinkie) Made in Provence since the end of the 17th century when almond trees were introduced to Southern France nougat as we know it replaced a similar walnut confection as the local delicacy The first commercial nougat factory in Montelimar opened in 1770 and a few of the town’s existing factories have been in operation since the end of the 19th century The 15 nougat factories in Montelimar today produce a combined total of 3,000 tons of nougat a year although the American market has proved particularly hard to penetrate For visitors to Montelimar who are truly serious about nougat an interactive map on the wall outside the tourist office plots out all of the nougat factories in town with red bulbs that light up to show the most direct route to each I bought a map that denotes the regions of France by the sweets they’re known for--a handy guide for the candy pilgrim looking to plan a vacation around licorice or chocolate-covered cherries I also bought a book called “Le Nougat de Montelimar” (La Mirandole a nougat historian prone to poetic outbursts on the fecundity and naughtiness of the almond tree and the imperiousness of the honey bee the earliest mention of nougat in connection with Montelimar appears in a strange tale which I don’t doubt is rendered even more strange by my inexpert translation a crocodile and a medieval candy cook-off for the hand of a beautiful maiden In 1097 Montelimar was ruled by the red-bearded nobleman Adhemar le Rouge After earning a glorious reputation in the Crusades an Arab cook well versed in Oriental sweets Lord Adhemar desired that Mohammed should marry his wife’s comely goddaughter Yolande Whether it was Mohammed’s exotic origins or his skills as a confectioner that Lady Gertrude objected to is not clear but to prove her point she asked both cooks to make nougat The two nougats were as different as the cooks who made them Mohammed’s soft and sticky nougat was deemed vulgar by Lady Gertrude Her husband said that Jehan’s crunchy nougat was barely fit to break his teeth on they agreed that the people of Montelimar should decide which nougat they preferred and the hand of the unlucky Yolande would go to whichever cook had made it The two hopeful bridegrooms worked all night and the castle was decorated for a celebration his enormous jaws became stuck together so tightly that he could not open his mouth Lady Gertrude triumphantly proclaimed Jehan’s nougat the true nougat (“Not even a crocodile will swallow the soft nougat!” she said.) The end of the story sees Yolande married to Jehan Mohammed exiled to the mountains to live as a hermit and the crocodile seized by the emboldened townspeople and thrown into the Rhone Lord Adhemar presumably spent the rest of his reign under his wife’s sticky but he might have felt vindicated to know that while connoisseurs and nougatiers prefer hard nougat the soft nougat is far more popular commercially Au Rucher de Provence is owned by Pierre Bonnieu rumpled appearance that suggests a passion for producing small batches of something by hand The nougat factory is about the same size as the small retail shop in front of it and Pierre runs both with the help of his wife and his father when the humidity prevents the nougat from hardening properly and causes it to gum up the works of his 50-year-old wrapping machine The process of making nougat involves whipping egg whites and honey together over a hot water bath and then pouring in sugar that has been cooked separately in a copper kettle to 250 degrees for soft nougat and 300 degrees for hard The mixture is stirred for four hours over hot water at which point Provencal almonds and Sicilian pistachios are added The sticky mass is quickly shoveled into trays lined with a thin which is similar to the material that comprises Holy Communion wafers A heavy metal rolling pin is used to flatten the nougat while it is still warm Bonnieu uses a ruler and a circular saw to cut it into its intended dimensions Nougat Gerbe d’ Or is at the other end of the spectrum from Au Rucher de Provence Although Gerbe d’Or also maintains a small artisan nougat factory close to the center of town fully automated factory produces three tons of nougat a day rain or shine--a little more than a third of the town’s entire output Visitors are invited to climb stairs to a second level occupied by a NASA-looking command center full of computer terminals a display of antique machines that look like the ones in use at Au Rucher de Provence and a catwalk from which to observe the action on the floor below where a sealed pressure cooker can produce a batch of nougat in 20 minutes At the end of my spree I couldn’t help but conclude that most palates wouldn’t notice a huge difference between the artisan nougat produced in small batches and the mass-produced candy other than a sense that the former is meant to be slowly savored and the candy’s sweetness has more dimension But I’m also partial to the slightly airier nougat made in big factories probably because of all those bags of grocery store nougat from Paris Soft and uncomplicated can be very desirable qualities in a candy particularly when you’re eating a lot of it Spread the almonds and pistachios on a baking sheet and toast them until golden Lightly oil the sides of an 8-inch-square cake pan and line the bottom with an 8-inch-square piece of wafer paper Set aside another 8-inch-square piece of wafer paper to be placed on top of the candy oil the bottom of the pan as well as the sides and lightly oil an 8-inch-square sheet of wax paper to be placed on top of the candy; set aside.) Whisk 2 cups of sugar and the water together in a small bowl Pour the mixture into a 2-to 3-quart heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir with a spatula over medium heat to dissolve the sugar stop stirring and bring the mixture to a boil Use a clean pastry brush dipped in water to wash down the sides of the pan to prevent crystallization of the sugar mixture pour the honey into a 1-to 2-quart heavy saucepan Place a candy thermometer in the honey (to get an accurate reading you may have to tilt the pan slightly so that the honey covers the bottom of the thermometer) and cook over medium-low heat until the honey reaches 280 degrees and turns a darker color whip the egg whites in a mixer fitted with a whisk attachment until frothy gradually add the remaining 3 tablespoons of sugar and continue to whip to stiff peaks carefully pour the honey into the egg whites in a slow Turn off the mixer and check the temperature of the sugar (to get an accurate reading you may have to carefully tilt the pan so that the sugar covers the bottom of the thermometer) turn the mixer back to high and carefully pour the sugar into the egg white mixture in a slow Continue to whip at high speed until the mixture thickens and becomes almost too stiff to whip The mixture will start out looking wet and glossy but as it cools and stiffens the surface will take on a dull Add the vanilla and whip about 1 minute longer fold in the almonds and pistachios and scrape the nougat into the prepared pan Smooth the top of the candy with a spatula and top with wafer or wax paper (oiled side down) Use your hands or a clean spatula to press down and flatten the top Run a knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the nougat and turn the candy out onto a cutting board (Cut through the edible paper.) Use a sharp sturdy knife to trim off the edges and cut the nougat into 1-inch squares Store the nougat pieces between sheets of wax paper in an air-tight containe Subscribe for unlimited accessSite Map a bad accident or some other unforeseen disaster being all that separate Spain's Alberto Contador from winning this year's Tour today's stage is all about the race to see who'll join him on the podium in Paris tomorrow afternoon The climb to hell that is Mont Ventoux will be sorting out the men from the boys this afternoon prior to tomorrow's celebratory procession to Paris where the sprinters will be left to duke it out on the cobbles of the Champs-Élysées to see who gets to finish runner-up behind Mark Cavendish in the final stage But on general classification, where it really matters, Andy Schleck has second place all but sewn up. Seven-times winner of this race, Lance Armstrong is currently sitting pretty in the bronze medal position but will be keeping his eyes peeled for the UK rider Bradley Wiggins the climbing revelation of this year's Tour who is 15 seconds behind in fourth While Wiggins has no choice but to attack Armstrong today he'll also need to be wary of the American's Astana team-mate Andreas Kloeden Frank is the only other rider entertaining realistic hope of nailing a top-three finish on GC Expect to see attack after attack today as (a) Astana do everything within their power to ensure Contador Armstrong and Kloeden make it a 1-2-3 in Paris (b) Saxo Bank try to get Schleck the Elder on to the podium alongside his younger brother and (c) Garmin try to improve the position of their man Wiggins I'll be back to begin coverage of the stage at 12.15pm Richard Williams on the conspicuous absence of drug scandals in this year's Tour .. Bradley Wiggins on Twitter (note decidedly unsubtle dig at Mark Cavendish on 9.05am on 22 July) Lance Armstrong on Twitter Our all-singing, all-dancing Tour De France 2009 special report The official Tour website Yellow jersey: Alberto Contador (Spa/Astana)Green jersey: Thor Hushovd (Nor/Cervelo)Polka dot jersey: Franco Pellizotti (Ita/Liquigas)White jersey: Andy Schleck (Lux/Saxo Bank) It's probably no exaggeration to say that many of the riders on this year's Tour – non-climber Mark Cavendish foremost among them - will have had recurring nightmares about the ordeal facing them today: a 167km stage that culminates in a nightmarish 1,800m climb up the desolate face of Mont Ventoux Seven-times a stage finish in its 95 million year existence Mont Ventoux boasts a Mediterranean forest at its base much Alpine flora at its summit and – on a sunny Saturday afternoon in July at least - nothing but scorching hot rock in between With no shelter to protect them from the elements the remaining 156 riders in this year's Tour will have to contend with searing heat beating down on their necks from above (and up into their faces from the baking road below) as they try to pedal their way up an often vertical looking mountainside most sane folk wouldn't attempt to negotiate in a small car Expect the field to finish strung out like Tuesday's washing while the winner of today's stage will almost certainly come from the top five on GC but the sadist in me can't wait to spend the afternoon watching them suffer Alberto Contador will probably cross the line first my (very small amount of) money is on Lance Armstrong to conquer Mont Ventoux for the first time a 16-man breakaway containing nobody of any consequence as far as GC is concerned has opened up a 9min 10sec lead on the peloton with the Astana and Garmion teams leading the chase Bradley Wiggins has already had to drop out of the peloton twice with mechanical problems but his team-mates have helped him back on both occasions The race for the green jersey: Thor Hushovd is currently swaddled in the points jersey and is almost certain to hold on to it Mark Cavendish is extremely unlikely to be contesting any of the 53 remaining points that are up for grabs in today's stage 12.34pm The 16-man breakaway has just crossed the Col d'Ey a third category climb that peaked at the 65.5km mark of today's stage need only finish the race tomorrow to guarantee himself the polka-dot King of the Mountains jersey Weather report: It's 23 degrees celsius on the road but that howling sound you can hear is a strong wind with gusts of over 110mph up at the summit of Ventoux which could make things very interesting indeed Some footage of Lance Armstrong and the late Marco Pantani tackling the summit of Mont Ventoux in 2002 just to give you a feel for what it's like 12.45pm: The gap between the 16-man breakaway and the peloton is down to 8min 48sec Albert Timmer and Tony Martin are among the 16 who has just rejoined them after stoping for a wee There are three different routes up Mont Ventoux on a bicycle but according to Eurosport co-commentator Sean Kelly today's is the worst by a considerable margin Your emails are flooding in: So far I've had one 12.50pm: Astana are no longer leading the peloton having made way for the Saxo Bank team of the Schleck brothers There's currently 8min 25sec between the main bunch and the breakaway which contains Juan Manuel Garate and Christophe Riblon among its notables (notables being cyclists I've heard of) 12.53pm: The gap between the breakaway and the peloton has increased to 10min 19sec I'm going to have to switch over to ITV4's coverage when it begins at 1pm as something's gone wrong with the Eurosport in our office meaning I'm working off sound alone at the moment This is devastating news for those of us were looking forward to passing off the erudite musings of former Irish cyclist Sean Kelly as our own for the rest of the afternoon Stat attack: The leaders covered 39.1km in the second hour of the race making their average speed for the first two hours 41.2km per hour 1.06pm: The stage leaders have just crossed the third climb of the day trying to bridge the 9min 15sec gap that separates them from the 16-man breakaway 1.25pm: The Garmin Slipstream team of Bradley Wiggins has moved to the front of the peloton and the gap between them and the breakaway is down to 9min 02sec Andreas Kloeden and Lance Armstrong are all sitting pretty towards the front of the main bunch where they'll no doubt stay until reaching the foot of the ascent to Monteux at which point all hell should break loose once they begin ramping up the steep first 9km 1.29km: Apparently there's a forest fire at the foot of Mont Ventoux about 15km from the finish line of today's stage With 500,000 spectators reported to be lining the route up the mountain it could have been started by a rogue cigarette butt somebody passing the time until the cyclists arrive by murdering ants with a magnifying glass and the sun or with a jerrycan of petrol and a Zippo lighter but there is a airplane used for firefighting flying overhead 1.35pm: Approaching the Col des Abeilles (the Climb of the Honeybees) the breakaway group still has a lead of 8min 22sec while the fire looks to be raging some distance from where the riders will be passing The aforementioned airplane is dropping a mixture of water and chemicals on it so hopefully there won't be any smoke blowing across the faces of the competitors when they beging their ascent of Ventoux It'll be difficult enough for them to get up the damned thing without having to contend with the acrid stench of thick smoke choking their airways 1.39pm: I was at a wedding in the east of France last week and had a couple of days in Paris during which time I got to see assorted workmen erecting temporasry seating on the both sides of the Champs-Élysées for tomorrow's finale For the benefit of anyone who's never been lucky enough to visit this particular Parisienne thoroughfare before Having been making the pace at the front of the peloton for some time now has a bit of a stretch and then moves to one side to let somebody else do the donkey-work for a while the gap between the peloton and the breakaway is 8min 26sec 1.45pm: The breakway group are on their way up the fourth climb of the day after which they'll descend to the foot of Mont Ventoux then begin their hellish 1,912m ascent to the finish line 1.51pm: On the subject of my recent picture-change Oliver James writes: "Perhaps the ladies in the audience prefer the rear view of a fit male cyclist," he says "The Guardian should be more able to laugh at itself Maybe I was enjoying it too much." Sorry about that Oliver here's a little reminder of what you're missing 1.56pm: Considering the numbers who turned out to watch Lance compared to the unnamed woman it seems that Oliver James is wrong: the entire audience prefers the rear view of a fit male cyclist I think that picture is very funny," writes Catherine Otey my husband is very upset that there's a photograph of me on your minute-by-minute report." 2.01pm: The breakaway group pedal over the summit of the Col des Abeilles and begin their descent into Mormoiron I did Stuart O'Grady a grave injustice earlier - he's still doing mighty work dragging the peloton along behind him can be spotted up near the front of the peloton He's a great climber who's had a fairly mediocre Tour this year but he's made no secret of his desire to win this stage 2.07pm: Freewheeling down towards the summit to Mont Ventoux the breakaway group passes a fleet of fire engines screaming past them in the opposite direction They're obviously en route to the forest fire that needs to be tackled 2.13pm: His sterling afternoon's work done Stuart O'Grady has slipped back into the bunch and left it to the Astana boys to make the pace at the front of the peloton as they descend the Col des Abeilles to the foot of Mont Venteux Bradley Wiggins' Garmin team-mates are next in the queue making sure their man gets a good position for the beginning of the climb The gap between the peloton and the main bunch is 7min 53sec and dropping fast as the breakaway group slow down in the hope that if they take their time beginning the ascent to Mont Ventoux 2.17pm: "I assume the lady in your photograph is the race leader With 27km to go and five to the beginning of the main climb team Astana have taken advantage of some crosswinds to put the hammer down and split the main field but Bradley Wiggins and both Schleck brothers were well positioned to go with them 2.24pm: The big guns on General Classification - Alberto Contador Andreas Kloeden and Frank Schleck - are all positioned in a group of 41 riders that's rolling towards the beginning of the ascent to Mont Ventoux 6min 15sec behind the breakaway group of 16 riders 2.27pm: Time trial specialist Fabian Cancellara is gritting his teeth and pedalling furiously into a headwind as he drags the yellow jersey group onwards His Saxo Bank team-mates are strung out behind him followed by Alberto Contador's Astana team 2.30pm: There's a furious wind blowing as Astana take to the front of the yellow jersey group Everyone in the top 10 on General Classification is in that particular group and it's from this point that the loose ends of this year's Tour will be tied up Fabian Cancellera tries to organise the riders into an echelon (pace line) to protect themselves from the wind as they approach the beginning of the climb to Ventoux 2.35pm: Bradley Wiggins' Garmin Slipstream team are taking their turn at the front of the yellow jersey group with assorted domestiques putting the hammer down and doing their bit to try and crack Astana's riders before running out of puff and dropping back to finish the climb in their own time comprised of 24 riders almost exclusively from the Saxo-Bank Garmin-Slipstream and Astana teams is strung out along the road with Garmin rider David Millar making a furious pace at the front It's shit-or-get-off-the-pot time for anyone who wants to finish on the podium in Paris tomorrow and they're only just beginning the 1,912m climb to the finish line 2.40pm: "You have me wrong," writes Ben Foskett (2.17pm) "I was just wondering how she was managing to stay ahead on what looks like a mountain bike." Well the early breakaway group has been reduced to three men who are 32 seconds ahead of the first-class train with all the main contenders on board The peloton are a further 2min 50sec behind them while the "bus" full of sprinters the knackered and assorted other non-climbers who we need not concern ourselves with here the riders are cycling along a tree- and people-lined road Soon the trees will be gone and only people will remain affording little protection from the bufffeting winds 2.50pm: Disregarding the breakaway they're reeling in the one-two-three on general classification - Alberto Contador Andy Schleck and Lance Armstrong - are in that order in the yellow jersey group on the road as their team-mates drop like flies Frank Schleck attacks but is immediately covered by Lance Armstrong 2.55pm: With their lieutenants and helpers going backwards the top six in the Tour on GC are all that remain in the only group that matters 2.55pm: Andy Schleck attacks and is immediately covered by Alberto Contador They've opened a 10-metre gap on the rest of the heavyweights as they continue passing assorted bits of detritus from the original 16-man breakaway with Frank Schleck attacking from the front only to look over his shoulder and see Lance Armstrong on his wheel Andreas Kloeden has been dropped by the yellow jersey group Quick reminder: The two stage leaders on the road today are Tony Martin and Juan Manuel Garate who have a 2min 15sec lead on the yellow jersey group where the battle to win the Tou is being enacted but it's a steep 10k that'll take them the business end of 30 minutes to ride 3pm: The yellow jersey group is now comprised of: Andy and Frank Schleck Andy Schleck keeps trying to attack from the front in a bid to launch his brother up the mountain and on to the podium in Paris but Lance Armstrong is watching Frank Schleck like a hawk 3.05pm: Andy Schleck and Contador attack and are let go Nibali makes a break to try and bridge the gap He needs to make up over two minutes on Armstrong to get third place overall Contador and Nibali are 1min 46sec behind Martin and Garate Schlkeck keeps looking over his shoulder trying to see where he's brother is He's 16 seconds behind in a group with Armstrong 3.10pm: It looks like Contador and Andy Schleck will soon catch Garate and Martin and be the one-two on the road as well as on general classification Andy is continuously looking over his shoulder and seems bewildered by the fact that he's not in sight Contador and Nibali have slowed right down with Schleck unsure what to do as he's unable to shake off Contador and improve his own position on GC but also unable to help his brother overtake Lance Armstrong because he's 10 seconds down the road He decides to sit up and wait: brotherly love .. 3.15pm: It's must be like like cycling through the queue for a proviincial nightclub with the roads lined five or six deep with jabbering drunken idiots as the riders grit their teeth and continue their ascent Tony Martin and Juan Manuel Garate are joint favourites to win the stage as polka dot jersey occupant Franco Pellizotti thunders towards them Contadore and Wiggins immediately get on their wheels and the look on Frank Schleck's face when he looks over his shoulder and sees Armstrong on his wheel is priceless Kloeden has dropped out the back of the yellow jersey group 3.21pm: Bradley Wiggins looks to have cracked He's been unhitched from the yellow jersey train and is struggling to stay in touch Andy Schleck continues shovelling coal on to the furnace while Bradley Wiggins continues losing touch at the back He'll lose fourth place if he finishes 24 or more seconds behind Frank Schleck 3.25pm: Brilliant riding from Bradley Wiggins who drags himself back into the yellow jersey group King of the Mountains Franco Pellizotti's face is a picture of agony as he attempts to bridge the gap between himself and stage leaders Tony Martin and Juan Manuel Garate 3.26pm: Andy Schleck attacks from the front of the yellow jersey group Wiggins and Nibali are slipping out the back door but been pegged back by Tony Martin - if either of them takes the stage win Franco Pellizotti is 38 seconds behind them and the yellow jersey group is a further 10 seconds behind him 3.31pm:Juan Manuel Garate has led from start to finish of this stage and crosses the line triumphantly Alberto Contador and - in no particular order - Lance Armstrong Vincenzo Nibali and Pelizotti are next over .. 3.33pm: Wiggins pedals over the finish line looking absolutely exhausted The commentators on ITV seem to think he's done enough to hold on to fourth place on general classification but aren't quite sure and will let us know after a commercial break Good news for Bradley Wiggins After a brave ride it turns out he only lost 20 seconds on Frank Schleck which means he'll keep his fourth spot on general classification going into tomorrow's final stage COSTA RICA'S LEADING ENGLISH LANGUAGE NEWSPAPER UPDATE: According to the Nicaragua Dispatch, Karen Colclough was strangled to death Police arrested Nicaraguan man Fernando Antonio Aburto He was connected to the crime after he sold a camera he allegedly stole from Colclough to a local resident for $27 Aburto apparently had a lengthy criminal record Colclough, 37, had worked in Wyoming with developmentally disabled adults for the past decade. She was in Nicaragua on a mission trip organized by the Presbyterian Church of Jackson Hole and Agros International of Wyoming, according to Planet Jackson Hole Her pastor confirmed to the paper that Colclough’s body was found near the hotels where the missionary group was staying. Agros International described the circumstances of Colclough’s disappearance in a Facebook post earlier in the week: the group’s work was completed and as is the usual custom with Agros trips the team had assembled for an end-of-trip debrief at the Barcelo Montelimar Montelimar is 62km/38 miles southwest of Managua There were no scheduled work sessions or activities that day; the group planned to meet for dinner that evening Volunteer Karen Colclough checked in with staff to say she was going for a run on the beach and did not return to connect with the team for dinner as planned en route to Grand National victory under jockey Barry Geraghty I couldn't believe it," Mangan told The Racing Post He's never let us down – he has always been in the money He's the star of the stable!" Geraghty over several others in a wide-open betting race as were other public favorites Youlneverwalkalone Ad Hoc unseated his rider nearing the midpoint.All 40 who entered made the start with 14 completing the course there was no real tactic to go in front," Geraghty said "I had a dream of a run the whole way and he jumped unbelievable "It's a thrill to finish a National never mind to win one It's hard to believe he could win so easily."The triumph earned owner Mike Futter prize money of £348,000 He reportedly won more than £780,000 in bets as well Sign up for BloodHorse Daily The ‘South of France’ starts around the cities of Valence (Drôme) according to several spokespeople from tourism offices contacted by The Connexion The tourism professionals made reference to sunnier weather pine and larch trees and private swimming pools as common characteristics of what the South of France is considered to look like There seems to be more debate of the start of the south relating to the east than the west where the marketing is more centred around culinary riches and historic heritage While the western unofficial border line looks clear the start of southern France in the east is hazier Tourism offices seem to agree Brive-la-Gaillarde (Corrèze) and Perigueux (Dordogne) are the two gateway cities in the south west Brive-la-Gaillarde’s tourism office says a common saying in the town states that ‘everything above Brive-la-Gaillarde is considered north.’ The tourism offices of Valence and Montélimar both market their cities as being the point at which people enter the South of France or the ‘Midi’ the colloquial term for ‘southern France’ in the east the motorway taking drivers from Lyon to Marseille that is nicknamed the ‘the sunshine motorway’ (l’autoroute du soleil) “We have been marketing Valence based on the sunny atmosphere,” said Naomi Nicolas director of communications at the Valence tourism office While the office’s official slogan is ‘changez d’air’ (‘a change of scenery’) Ms Nicolas confirmed that the office also marketed Valence as the gateway to the Midi with slogans such as ‘Ici commence le Midi’ (The Midi starts here) and ‘Valence aux portes du Sud’ (Valence as the gates of the south.) Ms Nicolas also mentioned a billboard on the motorway rest area near Portes-lès-Valence (Drôme) that reads: ‘Porte du Soleil’ (‘Gate to the sun’) playing on the ‘porte’ in the commune’s name inhabitants of Valence have an expression claiming that they live at ‘midi moins le quart’ which means ‘a quarter to 12’ but also suggests that they are almost but not quite in the Midi (south) Read more: French property watch: Drôme - an idyllic ‘gateway to the south’ a town 10 kilometres north of Valence in Drôme is also sometimes considered to be the beginning of southern France the town has never marketed this to tourists “Loriol-sur-Drôme (Drôme) is for me the frontier,” said a spokeswoman for Montélimar’s tourism office arguing that the change in scenery and the combination of dry weather pines and a stronger mistral wind were all features of the South of France director of communications of Grenoble’s tourism office referred to the two mountain passes of the Lautaret (Hautes-Alpes) and the Col de Rousset (Drôme) as geographical borders dividing the north and south Ms Boudières mentioned the lavender fields found past the Col de Rousset as a sharp distinction with the blanket snow and ice-cap scenery north of the pass She said the abundance of larch trees after the Col du Lautaret was another geographic feature she factored in Ms Boudierès said she did not consider Grenoble to be part of the south of France while Ms Nicolas did agree on Valence being in the south French newspaper Libération created an online game where it asked players to label cities as being in the north or the south The game is no longer accessible because of technical issues The South of France line may move further north over the years as climate change pushes temperatures up and brings phenomena often observed along the Mediterranean coast Ms Boudières did mention cicadas in Grenoble over the summer a rather unusual characteristic for residents Ms Nicolas said lavender fields are beginning to blossom further and further north Dordogne popularity, winter heating woes: Four French property updates National parks in France warn visitors to respect flora and fauna We explain the subtle distinctions between the various terms used in cafés Cow’s milk cheeses dominate as winter comes to an end Every month we outline good film and TV series to improve your language A Nicaraguan man was convicted on Monday of killing a 37-year-old U.S. missionary from Lynnfield, Mass., last April, the Nicaraguan daily La Prensa reported murdered Karen Colclough during the course of an aggravated robbery and rape Last April, Colclough went missing in Tierra Nueva, Nicaragua, where she had been a volunteer with the Presbyterian Church of Jackson Hole, Wyo., and Argos International, a nonprofit group working with rural families in Central America, The Tico Times previously reported said Colclough had lost contact with the rest of her service team at Barcelo Montelimar where the group was staying after completing their work After check-in and debriefing on Friday, April 11, Colclough said she was going for a run on the beach, but did not return for dinner with the team. At about 6 p.m, concerned colleagues began a search, The Boston Globe reported Colclough’s body was found on April 14 on Quisalá Beach in San Rafael del Sur Glenda Zavala, head of Nicaragua’s Judicial Police, told local reporters that Aburto strangled Colclough to death after stealing her camera. Police linked Aburto to the crime after he sold Colclough’s camera to a local resident for $27. Police said Aburto had scratch marks on his arms, indicating a struggle, according to the Nicaragua Dispatch Colclough had worked in Wyoming with developmentally disabled adults for the past decade She also worked as a guide in Yellowstone National Park and at the Grand Teton National Park The prosecution asked Judge Henryette Casco for the maximum sentence of 30 years in prison aggravated robbery and homicide would carry 12 Nov 26, 2021 | The Musée Européen de l’Aviation de Chasse de Montélimar has gained approval from the DGAC France’s civilian aviation regulator to conduct sunset pyrotechnic displays with its North American OV-10B Bronco F-AZKM The approval is the culmination of two years work for the volunteers at MEAC alongside their partners MEAC are also working on a further special display in collaboration with the French military The modifications include the installed of bright LEDs around the airframe and pyrotechnics fitted to the aircraft’s fuselage pylons 2022 marks the 25th Anniversary of F-AZKM’s arrival at Montélimar since when MEAC have displayed their aircraft around Europe at venues such as Jersey MEAC have published a teaser of what it plans for the 2022 in its Facebook page BOXES of chocolates are a Christmas classic - but many of the nation's favourites have seen some dramatic changes over the years From long-forgotten green 'Mint Fondant' Quality Streets to Heroes treats that were removed over a decade ago there are many Brits who may not know what they are missing Every Christmas supermarket shelves are stacked with family-size chocolate selection boxes The so-called 'Big Four' dominate the festive sales as families argue over the best option from Roses But a step back in time reveals that many of the nation's favourites have been lost over the years, reports Surrey Live In fact, over 50 different types of treats have come and gone - while some classics have stood the test of time Founded back in 1936, Quality Street has become a familiar favourite as families gear up for Christmas the chocolates that you would find include The Green Triangle Milk Choc Block and Orange Chocolate Crunch But the tins of brightly coloured treats underwent a major change this year as the classic wrapping was swapped out for eco-friendly paper And compared to 2009, Quality Street contain roughly 48 fewer chocolates per box, The Sun has revealed. While some of them were dropped altogether others were alterations of those everyone knows today as Cadbury's looked to combat the sales of rival Mars' Celebrations boxes you would have been met with a selection including Fudge But with others including a Crunchie and Creme Egg Twisted dividing opinion it is no wonder the selection has been altered over the years the box of Celebrations comes filled with mini-versions of classic chocolate bars Launched in 1997, the varying options in the brightly coloured box includes the highly divisive Bounty - which was controversially axed from some stores in this years selection Instead, extra portions of others were added instead, including Mars, Snickers, Milkyway, Teasers and Galaxy  the box of Celebrations hasn't seen too many changes over the years Only Galaxy Truffle (1997–2011) and Topic (1997–2006) have come and gone from the selection Brits have been enjoying Roses for over 80 years the box has undergone some drastic changes The classic line-up includes favourites including Strawberry Dream Signature Truffle and the traditional Cadbury's Milk Chocolate the treats to be left out of the box include: Our journalists strive for accuracy but on occasion we make mistakes. For further details of our complaints policy and to make a complaint please click this link: thesun.co.uk/editorial-complaints/ Google has always made an official statue for each version of Android, all of which are named after tasty desserts. However, these statues have typically been at Google’s headquarters in Mountain View, not in other cities around the world. That may change with Android 7.0 Nougat the company is planning an official Android Nougat statue as well as a Nougat party in the city of Montélimar This small city of 35,000 is the self-styled world capital of Nougat so it would make sense that they would want to have their own statue for Android 7.0 Nougat in the city there is more than 4.5 tons of Nougat produced each and every year the new statue is on its way to the city now however the report didn’t mention anything about how the statue looks and whether it would look similar to the one that Google unveiled in Mountain View earlier this summer Google names every version of Android after a tasty dessert Starting with Cupcake since the A and B releases were Alpha and Beta However it appears that since KitKat was announced – which they worked with Nestle to get that name – the company has been using it for marketing Android Making users much more aware of the version of Android they are using Leading many people to say that they have “Android Lollipop” instead of “Android 5.0” While many were hoping for a repeat of KitKat with Nutella this year that didn’t happen and many were saddened with the name of “Nougat” although those in Montélimar love the name