words: Edward Deitch
If Sauvignon Blanc is the best-known white variety in France’s vast Loire Valley, with Sancerre the most famous example, the Chenin Blanc grape also gives us some of the region’s most beautiful wines
Chenin Blanc is the dominant white variety in the Middle Loire
producing wines that range from dry to sweet to sparkling
and the most important appellation here is the world-renowned Vouvray near the city of Tours
Lesser known but equally exciting is the small appellation of Mountlouis-sur-Loire
which lies just across the Loire River from Vouvray
It is here that Lise and Bertrand Jousset farm 27 acres and produce some of the best Chenin Blancs I have tasted
Their newest Chenin Blanc release is the 2017 “Premier Rendez-vous.” I’m not sure of the significance of the name (first meeting)
but if this happens to be your first taste of Chenin from the Loire
I think you’ll find it a stunning introduction
The grapes are from very old and newer vines that grow in clayey flint and sandy soils and are farmed biodynamically. Fermentation takes place in large oak barrels followed by aging in stainless steel tanks
The result is a bright and nuanced $35 wine dominated by stone fruit and lively citrus aromas and tastes
“Like biting into a ripe white peach,” I wrote in my notes
There’s a good deal of orange along with some tropical fruit notes
This is a lovely wine to sip with appetizers and to pair with all kinds of lighter dishes in spring
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a super flower blood moon lit up the night sky overnight on May 16 — see stunning photos from around the world of the moon glowing red
drawings courtesy of local + suphasidh studio
local + suphasidh studio‘s ‘100% wooden house’ links the historic location of château de la bourdaisière with contemporary life
the residential prototype generates a progressive field of vision towards the surrounding forest
integrating itself into the external environment
natural light and glimpses of the surrounding landscape enter through two thin openings
which are cut out of the monolithic volume of the house
enclosed within the thick shell of the exterior
a fluid interior space offers a variety of spatial configurations to reinvent everyday living
the home’s materiality makes it possible to negotiate the boundary between the inside and the outside
forming a continuous space that can be inhabited in many different ways
the building remains anchored to the ground thanks to the rough structural trunks piercing the floor
architect: local + suphasidh studio
status: competition 1st prize – under construction
client: château de la bourdaisière – france bois forêt – caisse des dépôts
local executive architect: isabelle poulain architecte
photography: © vincent hecht
AXOR presents three bathroom concepts that are not merely places of function
but destinations in themselves — sanctuaries of style
CHENIN BLANC IS undoubtedly the Loire’s most fascinating and diverse grape variety
capable of making a remarkable range of styles from bone-dry through to lusciously sweet as well as still and sparkling
Recent DNA analysis suggests that Chenin is an offspring of Jura’s Savagnin and so related to Sauvignon Blanc and Trousseau
The first historical reference to Chenin comes from the 9th century at Bouchemaine
the small town at the eastern end of Savennières
some Chenin was planted at Château de Chenonceau in eastern Touraine
Chenin Blanc is largely confined to Anjou-Saumur and Touraine with outposts in Coteaux du Loir
as well as the Fiefs Vendéens close to the Atlantic Coast
There is now a little planted way south in the Upper Loire in the Roannaise and Forez
where leading producers are experimenting with a range of white grapes
As Chenin is a mid- to late-ripening variety
it is not well suited to the Pays Nantais with its increased chance of wet weather in late September and October
Chenin’s eastern limit is around Amboise – spring arrives 10 to 14 days later here than it does in Anjou due to the distance from the Atlantic
thus it is hard to get Chenin to ripen properly here
Instead Sauvignon Blanc is largely the chosen white variety in the Loire’s eastern part
Loire Chenin does best planted on limestone – the bedrock from Saumur eastwards
Chenin from limestone tends to have slightly higher acidity than those from Anjou
While there is a tradition in Vouvray and elsewhere in the Loire for fermenting and ageing wines in old wood
increasingly top Loire Chenin Blanc producers use newer wood
usually with a small proportion of new oak
500- and 600-litre barrels with a medium toast rather than 225- or 228-litre barriques
There are also limited experiments using amphorae and concrete eggs
although the opportunities to taste these older wines are considerably less than their sweet counterparts as there is less of a tradition – apart from in Vouvray and Savennières – of ageing dry wines
dry Vouvrays that are 40 years old or more are still certainly drinkable and enjoyable
It is worth considering decanting Loire Chenin Blanc
especially from a recent vintage or if the wine appears closed
good autumn means fine wines in tiny quantities
Not as ageworthy as ’08 or ’10
Jim Budd is the DWWA Regional Chair for Loire
2017-2040 writes the award-winning Jimsloire.blogspot.com
but use of this name is dying out Chenin plantings in Loire 9,240ha (2014)
Dry white Loire appellations that can only use Chenin Montlouis
quality and great value on offer from this regional tasting
Waxy notes and tones of baked apple with the weight of youthful fruit
The finish is laden with grip and fine acidity that lasts for ever
This is a great wine which needs time in bottle to evolve
Caramel oak on the palate gives over onto lavender to form a wine redolent of terroir and variety
richly sewn with luscious honey and dried apricot fruit
not a refreshing wine but one that has merits in texture and length
The oxidative style is saved by 2014s racy acidity
A fairly mute nose but hinting at some spice and red apple fruit
A creamy mid-palate melds with sappy acidity and finishes long
composed of compact fruit and a mineral texture
A touch of that lanolin style comes through the floral notes; richly textured but at the same time attractively restrained
There is lightly polished fruit that is sandy and lightly desiccated
It is richly textured with racy undertones and a delightful balance and harmony
The flavours show the same confidence with a touch of ginger spice and honey in a supple
An engaging wine full of charm and seductive balance
honey suckle and apricots unfold onto an intense palate in a pretty and perfumed style with baked apple and biscuit notes
There is a confident Chenin pith and a breezy interesting finish
polished citrus fruit and white peach that has great elegance infused with greengage and wild flower
There is plenty of alcohol here but with impressive
pithy substance which is setup very well for the cellar
There’s a lovely nature to this wine; a well-defined nose followed by acid freshness and fruit concentration
It finishes in a classy style and has all the hallmarks of a great Anjou wine
Italy’s sparkling wines are the perfect match for the celebratory gatherings that abound at this time of year
and the breadth of their food pairing possibilities might just surprise you
Half a century of passion and commitment for a project that set a new benchmark in Rioja..
Good wine is something to celebrate but as any wine lover knows
Search for the Decanter China translation for the popular wine regions
an incredible 18,244 wines were judged at the 2022 Decanter World Wine Awards – with just 163 wines awarded a Platinum medal
‘Winning a Platinum medal is something really exceptional’ said Decanter World Wine Awards Co-Chair Sarah Jane Evans MW
‘Platinum is like the stratospheric level’ she commented
‘so it’s really saying to the winemaker: this is a great wine.’
Making up just 0.89% of the total wines tasted at the 2022 competition, Platinum medal winners – alongside the Best in Show – represent the best of the best wines at the Decanter World Wine Awards
Scroll down to discover the full list of DWWA 2022 Platinum medal winners well worth seeking out, all of which have been awarded 97 points and tasted at least four times across the competition’s meticulous judging process.
Championing the most Best in Show medals
France also scored highest on the Platinum table with 38 wines awarded the accolade across nine regions
Burgundy and Champagne were awarded seven Platinum medals each
Noteworthy highlights from France include second-ever Platinum medals awarded to Jura for Domaine Badoz
Côtes du Jura 2015 and to a Loire sparkling wine for Cave de Montlouis
Italy was awarded 24 Platinum medals with Montepulciano
proving its worth with two medals awarded to wines from Abruzzo and Marche
Vere Novo Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2020 and Moncaro
Marche saw a second Platinum awarded to Velenosi
Lacrima di Morro d’Alba Superiore 2021
a wine produced with the indigenous and aromatic red grape variety
Emilia Romana also impressed with three Platinum medals awarded – a first for the region – including a Value Platinum for Cantina Sociale di Gualtieri’s Il Ligabue
The first Lambrusco to receive such a prestigious accolade in the competition
the judges noted its ‘rich and full body with plenty of dark berry fruits with floral notes
Delicious with the right sorts of food and a great example at this price.’
22 Platinum medals were awarded with 13 regions represented
including a first-ever Platinum for Vino Espumoso de Calidad (Quality Sparkling Wine) to Torelló
Corpinnat Collectión Brut Nature 2011 – one of the nine sparkling wine producers in Penedès
Catalunya to quit the Cava denomination in 2019 and bottle under the fairly new
Intriguing Platinum results can be found across the globe with 21 countries making the list
saw the most Platinum medals awarded with 15 and 13 medals respectively
Chile and Switzerland received five medals each
a large majority were awarded to white wines from benchmark examples of Chardonnay
Chenin Blanc and Pinot Gris to lesser-known Savagnin
White wines also impressed from Austria with all three of its Platinum medals awarded to cool-climate white varieties
and again in Croatia for its three Platinums
This skin-contact wine is the first orange wine to receive a Platinum medal at the competition with the judges noting its ‘interesting herbal details
broad spicy tannins and charming creamy texture.’
North Macedonia and Slovenia made the Platinum list too
Japan was awarded a Platinum medal with a first-ever win from the country’s south island Kyushu for Sanwa Shurui
the nation also won a first-ever Platinum from Essex for Vagabond Winery’s Chardonnay 2020
Canada was awarded one Platinum for its world-renowned Icewine
and in the United States California topped charts for its internationally recognised red wines from Napa Valley
with four Platinum medals awarded to wines from Rutherford
On judging at the 2022 competition, Co-Chair Michael Hill Smith MW said
‘There’re a lot of wine competitions in the world
so winning a Platinum at Decanter is quite important because it’s not just a Gold medal-winning wine
‘It’s one of the very best of the Golds in the competition
So I think if you win Platinum it shows that wine is of exceptional quality.’
See below for the full list of DWWA 2022 Platinum medal winners. Search all results at awards.decanter.com
Go to DWWA homepage
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