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How a bit of Dry Tortugas National Park ended up 4,500 miles away in Brittany.
With his partner, Hélène Laclaverie, Elliot-Saudrais runs Perros-Guirec’s “miniature harbor,” where children can drive 12-foot-long electric boats. He always thought the tidal basin lacked a little flair, so he saw the stranded buoy as an opportunity. “We told ourselves, ‘Wow, it would make for a great decoration!’” he said. “We had to get it.”
So, Elliot-Saudrais, his brother, Laclaverie and two friends came back two days later. One of them, a professional diver, jumped into the water and tied a rope around the buoy, which was stuck between rocks above the waterline. It took the full power of the motorboat and nearly a dozen attempts, but after nearly an hour, the team finally freed the buoy and towed it to its new home. It is now adorned by a Star-Spangled Banner floating above the black-and-white flag of Brittany.
Erwan Elliot-Saudrais (foreground) and a friend with the freed Dry Tortugas buoy.
The Dry Tortugas buoy did not travel solo. Its lower parts were covered by tiny barnacles that Elliot-Saudrais suspected were erstwhile Florida residents. As far as what carried the floater from Florida to France, there is one likely culprit. “The assumption is that it’s the Gulf Stream,” Gantt said. “That’s the way it goes.”
Elliot-Saudrais said he was willing to return the buoy to its owners anytime, but that probably won’t be necessary. Transporting it back to Florida would be cost-prohibitive, and Gantt said the park was in the process of transferring ownership of the buoy to Perros-Guirec authorities. Google Maps already identifies “la Bouée de Floride” as a local landmark.
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The buoy’s wanderings, on the other hand, have seemingly come to an end. Elliot-Saudrais said that while not exempt from storms, Brittany doesn’t experience hurricanes. Also, the miniature harbor is completely enclosed by walls of pink granite.
“Even if its moorings were to break, it would stay in the basin,” he said. “It can’t escape anymore.”
Nicolas is a journalist and former geologist who joined NPCA in November 2015. He serves as senior editor of National Parks magazine.
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“The president’s proposed budget plan is beyond extreme. It is catastrophic. If enacted by Congress, our national park system would be completely decimated." - Theresa Pierno, NPCA's President and…
“This is the most extreme, unrealistic and destructive National Park Service budget a President has ever proposed in the agency’s 109-year history. It’s nothing less than an all-out assault…
"Rather than supporting our park staff during this challenging time, Congress is doubling down, further straining an overwhelmed Park Service." - Kristen Brengel, NPCA's SVP of Government Affiars
Preserving Our Past. Protecting Our Future.
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Peter Cumberlidge invites you to create golden family memories in three hand-picked havens: fabulous Falmouth
glorious Guernsey and stylish Perros-Guirec over in North Brittany
Family boating can be very rewarding for all concerned and I was lucky to experience this myself from an early age
But with teenagers on board for a longish summer cruise
you need to make sure everyone has a chance to enjoy their holiday in their own ways
Covering vast distances and visiting lots of new harbours isn’t necessarily the best way to keep all the crew happy
it’s usually best to combine short spells at sea with a lively menu of daily activities
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Falmouth is readily accessible by road or rail
Guernsey by air and Perros is barely two hours’ drive from St Malo ferry
delivery trips to and from the base can provide interest and satisfaction for those who like longer passages
without having to involve family members who don’t
it’s no problem to reach from the Solent once you’ve crossed Lyme Bay to Dartmouth
Falmouth has miles of sheltered water in the Penryn River
Truro River and various creeks and inlets branching off this beautiful combined waterway
plus visitor buoys and pontoons in prime locations
it’s a short hop south to the Helford River
or you might cruise 16 miles north-east for a day in picturesque Mevagissey
the estuary has enough peaceful hideaways for a summer of carefree pottering
you see glittering tongues of water in all directions
St Mawes village looks exquisitely English
Carrick Road glides up to Mylor Yacht Harbour and the Faland Truro Rivers
a chandler and easy kayak and motor launch hire
To port past the dockyard lies Falmouth itself
with Port Pendennis next to the Maritime Museum and friendly Falmouth Haven off the town quays
Falmouth Marina is snug but doesn’t take bookings
Cruising up the Fal Above Turnaware Point is the first of several detached visitor pontoons where you can soak up the soothing atmosphere
A chain ferry crosses the straight stretch past King Harry Passage
and beyond it several looming ships are laid up
its National Trust gardens edging the river
There’s another peaceful pontoon a mile above the ferry
Helford River This Cornish cruising jewel is four miles south-west of the Falmouth entrance
to starboard as you enter; boats under 15m can lie in the Pool
Anchoring isn’t allowed further upstream because of oyster beds
On the north side of the Pool is the stylish Ferryboat Inn; on the south side
Helford River Sailing Club and the Shipwrights Arms
By spending a week or two in and around Guernsey
perhaps even visiting the remote Humps anchorage north of Herm
or a touch further to Grève de la Ville on the north-east coast
Both bays have visitor moorings and La Grève is particularly cosy in westerlies
it’s a pleasant stroll up to Candie Gardens
a green oasis in the heart of St Peter Port
fork left up Smith Street and cross St Julian’s Avenue
The gardens have panoramic views north-east to Alderney and south-east to Jersey
with the Normandy coast visible on clear days
I chose Perros-Guirec as my third holiday base because it seems so naturally focused on leisure
This civilised Breton resort has always been a place for unwinding and the old family villas up behind Pointe du Château would once have been used for long summer vacations from mid-June to late September
Perros lies just over 90 miles south of Dartmouth entrance and 50 miles south-west of Guernsey
making an interesting but not too arduous delivery trip
The Brittany Ferries St Malo and Roscoff terminals are handy for shuttling by car
Perros harbour lies at the head of the shallow Anse de Perros
a wide sandy bay partly sheltered from seaward by Île Tomé
Perros Marina is retained by a long sill and entered though a lock gate near high water
bars and restaurants and the harbour has lift-out and repair facilities
The whole place is extremely laid-back and the amiable waterfront feels permanently en vacances
You can walk to superb sandy beaches and there are interesting daytime anchorages short hops away
Day jaunts from Perros must work around marina opening times
the marina is accessible mornings and evenings
Port Blanc A few miles north-east of Perros
this pretty village huddles behind a cordon of rocks opposite Guazer red buoy
the bay widens out and you can anchor as depths allow
Check the echo sounder as the ebb runs away
Anse de Trestel Halfway between Port Blanc and Perros
this splendid sandy bay is a gem in quiet weather
starting from the Passe de l’Est leading line with the north edge of Île Tomé bearing west true
Les Sept-Îles There’s an attractive anchorage in the bay between Île aux Moines and Île Bono
Above half-tide various rocky shoals in the approaches are safely covered and you can simply drive in from the SSE
Anchor opposite the east end of Moines with each island about 250m off
Wildlife boat trips to Sept-Îles This rugged archipelago is the most important marine bird reserve in France
and you may spot some jaunty puffins (macareux in French)
the grey stone lighthouse and a partly ruined fort
a strangely sculpted promontory of pink granite
Sentier des Douaniers This wonderful coastal path between Perros and Ploumanac’h has some of the finest views in Brittany
The rose-coloured cliffs glow in the sun and Les Sept-Îles look mysterious a few miles offshore
Foreign Affairs has been the leading forum for serious discussion of American foreign policy and global affairs
The magazine has featured contributions from many leading international affairs experts
CAITLIN RIVERS is Senior Scholar at the Johns Hopkins Center for Health Security and an Assistant Professor at the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health
she served as founding Associate Director of the Center for Forecasting and Outbreak Analytics at the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
He was joined by five members of his cabinet
It was an unusual show of force for a press conference
and with two unpopular wars underway and the response to Hurricane Katrina still floundering
“Leaders at every level of government have a responsibility to confront dangers before they appear and engage the American people on the best course of action,” he declared
could cost millions of lives and trillions of dollars
Bush then announced a sweeping new program meant to tackle those dangers head-on
But it wasn’t a military conflict that commanded presidential attention
It wasn’t another hurricane or a terrorist attack
“Pandemic flu,” Bush explained
“occurs when a new strain of influenza emerges that can be transmitted easily from person to person—and for which there is little or no natural immunity.” No such strain existed then
he was announcing the creation of the National Strategy for Pandemic Influenza
a comprehensive government plan for handling pandemic flu outbreaks
we can give our citizens some peace of mind,” he said
His warning proved prescient. Four years later, in 2009, two children in southern California with no connection to each other developed fevers and coughs. Laboratory tests soon revealed that they were both infected with a new subtype of influenza. Within two weeks, the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention activated its Emergency Operations Center and began work to develop a vaccine
The Strategic National Stockpile sent antivirals and personal protective equipment to states
The World Health Organization declared a “Public Health Emergency of International Concern” and raised the influenza pandemic alert to the highest level
Now, 14 years after H1N1, and with COVID-19 still roiling the world, the United States is again facing the prospect of an influenza pandemic. Avian influenza, or H5N1, has been tearing through animals for over a year, spreading more widely than it ever has before. In the United States
H5N1 has been detected in more than 6,300 wild birds and in every state
Outbreaks in commercial flocks have been registered in 47 states
leading farmers to cull over 58 million birds
And the number of affected birds and mammal species continues to grow
there is little evidence of the tenacity that propelled action in 2005 and 2009
the world has largely chosen to wait and see what happens next
the fatality rate has been roughly 50 percent
A bird flu that spreads efficiently among people would result in a new pandemic and exact extraordinary costs to human life
The United States needs to make sure it is ready for such a pandemic—just in case it happens
It can start by updating evaluations of how likely H5N1 is to start spreading between humans and what effect such spread would have
It should identify and prepare emergency steps to control the virus
The country also needs to look at the existing vaccines it has for the avian flu to see if they are effective
It has to restock whatever health supplies it burned through while fighting COVID-19
And it must communicate all these steps to the U.S
the United States risks finding itself mired in another catastrophic pandemic
Although it has attracted relatively little public attention
the scope of the avian flu outbreak is far beyond anything the world has seen before
The World Organization for Animal Health has recorded hundreds of H5N1 outbreaks in dozens of countries
the organization recorded 70 outbreaks across three continents
resulting in the culling of three million birds in a three-week reporting period
A recent study out of Spain snapped the plausibility of this scenario into focus
Most mammal infections with the virus are one-offs
acquired when an animal has direct contact with a bird
could pick it up by scavenging a carcass.) But in Spain
investigators observed a more concerning pattern
Mink in a commercial farming facility became ill with H5N1 even though no poultry outbreaks had been reported in the region
A subsequent investigation led epidemiologists to conclude that the virus was likely spreading among the animals
Mink can become infected with both avian and human influenza viruses
which suggests they could serve as vessels for the virus to learn how to spread between people
Mink are not the only mammals that may have experienced internal H5N1 transmission
Peruvian health officials reported in March that tens of thousands of wild birds and nearly 3,500 sea lions were found dead off the country’s coast
The sea lions may all have had direct contact with infected birds and encountered the virus that way
it is possible that the virus was spreading among the mammals themselves
A rapid investigation by veterinary health officials was unable to rule out that possibility
the mink and possible sea lion outbreaks are not themselves catalytic events that would make H5N1 a human threat
and the mink bout was thoroughly controlled by Spanish health authorities
shots over the bow that show how the virus might find a path to spread in humans
There are multiple ways that the avian flu could evolve
The virus could remain primarily a threat to animal health until it recedes
It could also stay limited to animals without routinely infecting humans
becoming a persistent ecological and economic threat
including by driving up egg and poultry prices and threatening endangered species
is that H5N1 could evolve to spread efficiently between people
It is impossible to say which of these scenarios will come to pass
and overreacting risks wasting public attention and resources
concerns about future acts of bioterrorism motivated the United States to offer smallpox vaccines to health-care workers and emergency responders
But the vaccine in use at the time was fairly risky
and smallpox attacks were a theoretical concern
so the program was stymied by low participation
the federal government spent important political capital on something unpopular
But an even worse failing would be to underreact to the next emerging threat
Policymakers therefore must take steps to prepare for a human H5N1 pandemic
the country can respond swiftly and aggressively
The most important immediate action that governments can take is to better gauge exactly how likely it is that bird flu will efficiently spread between humans
The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention uses a standardized Influenza Risk Assessment Tool that is meant to do just that
But the agency has not updated it for H5N1 since March 2022—before the recent explosion of cases
and before scientists gained a greater understanding of the virus
The tool should be updated now and more frequently going forward
The federal government should also establish metrics and triggers for when to escalate its public health response to H5N1
officials lost time negotiating over when such a response is justified
During the 2014 to 2016 outbreak of the Ebola virus in West Africa
the international public health community infamously took months to rally because it falsely assumed the outbreak would easily come under control
The result was an outbreak that spread across the region and took 11,325 lives
officials should hold discussions now with the goal of identifying clear and agreed-upon indicators for when to initiate certain emergency actions—for example
if multiple human cases are diagnosed within a short period
government departments and agencies with pandemic management responsibilities should explain clearly and in great detail what those emergency actions will be
might revisit its Pandemic Influenza Plan to incorporate lessons learned from the COVID-19 pandemic
Officials should also begin preparing public health actions—especially for how they will produce and distribute vaccines
the United States will not have to start from scratch: the Pandemic Influenza Stockpile contains a vaccine designed to protect against H5N1
But the government must make sure this vaccine has been tested against the currently circulating strain
It must also determine whether it needs new investments to scale up vaccine production
and it should check plans to distribute doses
the vaccine is likely stored in bulk form to extend its shelf life
the doses would instead need to be “filled and finished”—in other words
put into vials—a possibly time-consuming process that the government should map out
the United States must examine its Strategic National Stockpile
It usually holds materials necessary for successful mass vaccination campaigns
but its stores may have been drawn down by the government’s responses to COVID-19 and mpox (formerly known as monkeypox)
If the government does not have enough of these materials
the federal government should increase its communications regarding the H5N1 situation and the measures it is taking to prepare
there is very little information available in the public domain
a misstep that echoes the early days of the COVID-19 and mpox epidemics
information voids are inevitably filled with misinformation
The United States should not let that happen again
Washington may face even greater competing crises today than in 2005
when Bush launched the country’s influenza strategy
But it also has the institutional and public memory of the COVID-19 pandemic
the United States can be well prepared for a scenario where H5N1 becomes a human virus
Subscribe to Foreign Affairs to get unlimited access
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Caitlin Rivers and Dylan George
Michael T. Osterholm and Mark Olshaker
Miriam Sapiro and Todd N. Tucker
Sagatom Saha, Noah Kaufman, Gautam Jain, and Christopher Bataille
Jason Bordoff and Meghan L. O’Sullivan
Hussein Kalout and Feliciano Guimarães
Ivo H. Daalder and James M. Lindsay
Tong Zhao
Zongyuan Zoe Liu
Anne Neuberger
Liana Fix and Michael Kimmage
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Police launch investigation after memorial in Brittany to former minister daubed with swastikas
A stone memorial commemorating the life of the Holocaust survivor and former minister Simone Veil has been defaced with swastikas
sparking fresh concern over antisemitism in France
at Perros-Guirec in the western Brittany region
was found to have been daubed with the Nazi insignia on Wednesday morning
Veil, born in 1927, survived the Holocaust to become a celebrated figure in French politics
battling antisemitism and also serving as speaker of the European parliament
she was deported to Auschwitz and lost her mother
Veil died in 2017. The following year, the president, Emmanuel Macron, decreed she should have the honour of a final resting place in the Pantheon in Paris
which holds the tombs of France’s greatest heroes
“To deface her memorial is to deface France
These heinous acts must not go unpunished,” she added
The Ouest-France newspaper said it was the third time the memorial had been targeted within the last week
It had previously been smeared with mustard and excrement
The vandalism comes at an acutely sensitive time in France following a furore over a sign displayed at a protest in the eastern city of Metz at the weekend that police said was clearly antisemitic
The sign denounced Macron’s enforcement of a health pass in France to encourage people to get vaccinated and contained the names of prominent politicians
The teacher suspected of brandishing the sign
will go on trial next month accused of seeking to incite racial hatred
This article was amended on 17 August 2021
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Brittany's moody and atmospheric landscapes remain breathtaking—even in the off-season © Julien Marsault
French writer Julien Marsault recently enjoyed an off-season adventure on the Brittany coast in northwestern France
Here he shows you what you can see and do on a gentle road trip filled with wildlife spotting
excellent seafood and rejuvenating coastal walks
Being a freelancer isn't always a walk in the park
My partner couldn't take a full week off for a trip abroad
so we decided to travel for just three days and two nights nearby
exploring a bit more of the region we've been living in for almost two years now
We stayed one night in the small harbor city of Paimpol after spending an entire afternoon exploring one of the most beautiful places in the region, Bréhat
known as the 'Island of Flowers.' Despite spring being a distant memory
the location gracefully combined serenity and beauty
and sandy shores giving way to striking red cliffs
Visiting during the off-season allowed us the advantage of walking without many people around and enjoying a comforting cup of coffee in one of the nearly deserted village squares
The next day we drove for an hour to reach Perros-Guirrec where we would stay for the night
We enjoyed a lovely morning with a leisurely stroll along the stunning pink rocks of Ploumanac'h beach before having lunch in a Breton restaurant: the Crêperie des Flots
Our trip’s climax was a boat tour of the Sept Îles archipelago (€50 for two)
we embarked on a nearly three-hour cruise on the water to explore the realm of Northern Gannets
known as "Les fous de bassan" – a bird species renowned for its fishing techniques
This nature reserve is indeed a sight to behold
you might even have the chance to greet a seal basking nonchalantly on its rock
After visiting the Sept Îles archipelago we made a stop at Le Bleu Marin
a cozy seafood restaurant in Perros-Guirrec
It’s tricky for me not to take advantage of the abundance and quality of Breton fishing during such an excursion
After finding the perfect spot by scrolling through Google Maps (after a few years of practice
and the service was impeccable (once again
We relished a splendid selection of shrimp
a fine and crispy bottle of white wine to cap off the day in grand style (€60-70 for two)
I was pleasantly surprised by how cheap and smooth it was to travel around by car
A dear friend lent us her personal vehicle and here, you don't need a powerful SUV; the roads are typically in good condition, the speed limit is 110 km/h, and there are no tolls in Brittany (it's the only region in the whole country without motorways). This trip also made me discover an online map
which lists the fuel prices based on your location
It was also pretty easy to find parking in Perros-Guirrec
it can be a bit challenging in these small coastal towns
This allowed us to be completely free in our movements
without having to watch the clock to avoid having to pay an expensive fine
We concluded our journey with a leisurely hike in the Monts d'Arrée, located just under 100 kilometers from Perros-Guirec, before embarking on a two-hour drive back to Rennes
It’s way less touristy than the Breton coast but
this mountain range offers a great opportunity to experience absolute tranquility
as you relax in the picturesque landscape of moors and rocks
the area suffered a devastating fire back in 2022
but it still retains its cherished landscapes and magnificent forests
My pair of German army trainers of course
has been a cornerstone of my wardrobe for almost 8 years and cost me less than €30 (it’s a bit more expensive nowadays)
this vintage model became very popular when Belgian fashion designer Martin Margiela drew inspiration from it to create similar shoes in the early 2000s
They accompany me on many journeys, both in France and abroad. Bretagne is no exception and the unpredictable nature of its weather calls for a versatile pair, especially when it comes to walking for long hours. Bonus: they pair very well with a more dressed-up outfit like during our dinner at Le Bleu Marin.
Ploumanac'h has all the hallmarks of a charming commune
we’re heading for Brittany and the Côtes d’Armor
where the small village of Ploumanac’h nestles
itself part of the commune of Perros-Guirec
Ploumanac’h was voted ” Favorite Village of the French “
a well-deserved distinction for this jewel nestled on Brittany’s Pink Granite Coast
Originally a modest fishing hamlet called Ploumanac’h
which means “monk’s marsh” in Breton
it has evolved into the village of Perros-Guirec
preserving its authenticity over the centuries
Ploumanac’h is a popular destination
offering an immersive experience between the sea and the pink granite rocks
restaurants and a variety of shops and arts and crafts
the village offers a warm welcome to visitors all year round
bordered by the spectacular chaos of pink granite
and its natural harbor with 400 berths add a maritime dimension to its charm
what makes Ploumanac’h truly unique is its exceptional rock formation
captivate with their monumental size and diversity of form
is the result of a unique combination of three minerals: mica
This unique characteristic makes the pink granite of Ploumanac’h a rarity that’s worth a detour in itself
Ploumanac’h stands as a geological and cultural landmark
offering visitors an unforgettable experience in the heart of unspoilt Brittany
Its pink granite is a natural treasure that the village cherishes and shares with the world
Read also: These 5 charming villages are among the French people’s favourites
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GalleryPower cuts and road closures continued in western France on Thursday morning after Storm Ciaran brought a night of extreme wind and rain
1.2 million homes were left without electricity in western France on Thursday
after Storm Ciaran had raged throughout the night
Windspeeds reached record-breaking levels of more than 190 km/h in a number of different locations in Brittany
three north-western départements were gradually placed on red wind alert: Finistère at midnight
All high-level red alerts were lifted mid-morning on Thursday
Numerous fallen trees led to the temporary closure of some major roads
traffic was banned from the entire Finistère road network on Thursday morning
as the storm had caused "a large number of trees
branches and power and telephone lines to fall to the ground"
The ban concerned "the entire road network"
A total of 31 departments have been placed on orange alert for "wave-submergence"
"wind" or "rain-flooding." Paris is among the new locations placed on orange alert
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Colin Le Conte and David Corson enjoy a magical trip from Guernsey to Western Brittany and its famous pink granite rocks
Given that my father was a fisherman in Guernsey for years
including during the German occupation in World War II
it’s no surprise that I grew up fascinated by boats
he designed and built his own boat and I would often accompany him on his fishing trips
In fact most of my childhood was spent exploring the tidal waters around the islands
Having developed a taste for the sea, as soon as I was old enough I bought a boat of my own; first a 21ft Coronet, followed by a Princess 266 and then a Windy Grand Mistral 37 before becoming the proud owner of a 2016 Princess V39
To help others experience the same joy I get from exploring further afield in my own boat
I spent eight years organising cruises in company for the Guernsey Yacht Club Motor division
and I still take great pride in seeing so many people
who did their first long trip on one of our cruises
These days I tend to go cruising with my great friend and fellow Princess owner David Corson
We first met at the Guernsey International Powerboat Week way back in the 1980s
He was the organising secretary and I was helping with the computerised timing system
We must have done a half decent job of it as David went on to become chairman of the RYA’s Offshore Powerboat Racing committee while I took on the role of the UIM’s Chief Timekeeper for the Class 1 World Offshore Championships for the next 14 years
These days we have both slowed down a bit, progressed to more comfortable cruising craft (David’s current steed is a Princess V42 mkII) and enjoy taking our time exploring the many beautiful cruising grounds within reach of the Channel Islands
David’s Princess V42 making swift progress
Accompanied by our wives, Linda and Debra, we have spent many happy seasons hopping between the islands and the adjacent French coast. I have even set up a website (www.digimap.gg) to help share our knowledge of the area
Having already visited both Northern and Southern Brittany as well as lower Normandy in previous years
for the 2019 season we decided to go to the Rade de Brest
An area we had passed on our way to Southern Brittany in 2017 but not somewhere we had explored in any detail
it is a whole cruising ground in its own right and has a number of interesting marinas and rivers
There is good reason this is the home of the French navy with such a vast sheltered area of sea
starting with a long run direct from Guernsey to L’Aber Wrac’h and then a second
The agreed route for our Brittany boating adventure
We left a couple of days early as we were keen to take advantage of the best weather
We had a good trip to L’Aber Wrac’h in F2 to F3 from the NW
travelling at around 32 knots with the benefit of a little tide
and completed the leg in close to 3½ hours
We arrived at low water and took the decision to use the Libenter Passage
which is a bit further but a lot safer and easier to navigate
non-tidal marina and has the great benefit of being some 25 to 30nm further west than Roscoff
making it easier to judge the timing right for going around the corner to the Chenal du Four
We moored on the inside of the breakwater to avoid being disturbed by passing fishing boats
which never seem to slow down to reduce their wakes
The approach into L’Aber Wrac’h and the start of our Brittany boating adventure
We timed the Chenal du Four to reach it at high water slack
resulting in very little tidal flow and good sea conditions with no swell
The first marina you reach has plenty of visitors’ spaces due to the number of boats that stay for a night or two on their long journeys north or south
It’s an interesting 10 to 15min walk into town past the old church and the Vauban Tower – a UNESCO heritage site
It was built to look out for enemy vessels in the narrow Goulet de Brest passage and is well worth a visit
One of many spectacular walks along the unspoilt Brittany coastline
the Notic marina can take around seven visitors’ boats alongside and a similar number on fingers with limited draught
The facilities are quite basic but it is conveniently located
Camaret is a little run down but it grows on you and there are some nice walks around the headland
Further around the headland you reach the Manoir de Coecilian
an old derelict house where the poet Saint Pol Roux lived
and you can also pay a visit to the fascinating Alignements Megalithiques de Lagatair druid stones
Intriguing stone sculptures on the Camaret shoreline
We left at 10:00hrs for the short and sheltered trip through the Goulet de Brest to the furthest and oldest Brest marina called Moulin Blanc
We followed an easy and well-dredged channel and were met by a helpful staff member who guided us to our places
The marina facilities are good and they even provide a welcome pack
a world-class aquarium that was well worth our visit
The city of Brest is a 20-minute bus ride away
a nice cathedral and some interesting places to visit
We also had a good look around the new Chateau marina
set between the naval base and the large commercial area
It is rather separate from the town and a 20-minute walk to the train station
We decided to remain in Moulin Blanc and hire a car to explore the area
We had seen the lighthouse and the ruined abbey from the sea when travelling through the Chenal du Four but it was even more interesting on land
Just a couple of miles away there is also an excellent new WWII museum set in German watchhouse bunkers
where everything is in both French and English
We had always planned to visit Quimper while in the Brest area
after getting within a mile of it on a previous trip up the Odet river in 2017
but being thwarted by the lack of anywhere safe to leave our boat for the day
So this time we took the opportunity to drive there instead and include a recce of Guilly Glaz lock
Port-Launay and Chateaulin on the River Aulne
We also visited the picturesque town of Locronan
reputed to be one of the prettiest villages in Brittany
The Aulne’s Pont de Térenez has won several design accolades
Quimper is a lovely old town with the river running directly through the heart of it
meaning it has managed to retain much of its original architecture
Our visit was planned to coincide with the “Grand Marche” Wednesday market
which during the months of July and August is known for attracting more than 100 stalls
during our visit in May there were only four stalls in attendance selling their wares
We had planned a leisurely cruise up the River Aulne with an overnight stop in Port-Launay
but the timing for our return would have meant us exiting the River Aulne at 16:00 with nasty wind-against-tide conditions predicted in the Chenal du Four and some 80nm to go
We decided to treat the passage with respect and took a day trip up the Aulne instead
We left Brest marina around 2.5 hours before high water to give us enough time to cover the 11nm to the mouth of the River and get to the bridge around 2 hours before HW
Weaving around the tight bends we suddenly came across the old
derelict fleet of warships lurking in the shadows like ghost ships of a bygone age – impressive but creepy
Derelict warships stand as an eerie memorial to past conflict
which recently won an award for the most beautiful concrete bridge
we called the Guily Glaz lock-keeper (02.98.86.03.21) and informed him of our expected arrival time
He only operates 2 hours either side of HW
At Mean Spring Neap tides you should have 2.5m draught all the way to the lock
provided you stick to the deepest part of the river
Be careful not to move across the river to the lock until you are quite close though or you may go aground
Above the lock is the pretty town of Port-Launay
there is supposed to be a pontoon for visitors
but it was in a poor state and could only take two boats
On the way back down the river we were greeted by a yacht race which was quite a sight to behold
We returned to Moulin Blanc marina and refuelled ready for the return trip to Guernsey
have been boating together since the 1980s
We left Moulin Blanc marina first thing in the morning at around low water
There was a fog hovering a few feet above us which lowered and thickened before lifting as we headed out to sea
We travelled most of the way up the Chenal du Four in great conditions
A light F3 breeze and gentle 1.5-knot tide sped us on our way and meant the conditions were good enough to visit L’aber Ildut
an interesting port which has a handful of visitor pontoons rarely mentioned in cruising guides to the area
pretty and a hive of activity – we enjoyed watching seaweed being passed from fully laden boats to awaiting trucks
No wonder it is known as the seaweed capital of Brittany
took lots of photos and carried on with our journey
timing it perfectly for the Ile de Batz inside passage at around half tide
We had always wanted to go through the inside of the island passage as it is shorter
more scenic and avoids the meeting of tides in the outside passage
The walkway to board the ferry from Roscoff to Ile de Batz
A long following swell of around 2m high at 14-second intervals made life interesting as we surfed down the troughs but thankfully it was with us rather than against us
This meant we could maintain a cruising speed of 28 knots
around 10 knots faster than the estimated speed of the waves
There is no way we could have maintained that kind of pace if we were driving into a swell of that size and speed
we headed for the inlet of Ploumanac’h – another port on our bucket list
We had no intention of staying overnight on the fore and aft moorings
The ferries thought the same and we had one follow us in and met another near the exit
The inlet of Ploumanac’h was another pretty stop on the list of Brittany boating must-sees
We went around to Perros Guirec and arrived 20 minutes after the gate opened
The tide can rush in through the gate until the wall is covered
The gate at Perros Guirec is only 5.8m wide and feels narrower as you approach the entrance
The pontoons are named and the visitors’ pontoon is the second from the right
Squeezing through the tidal gate at Perros Guirec
We walked up the hill to the main town and explored the area
a small church and a pretty beach on the other side of town
Sadly this was the only day the shops were open as almost all of them close on Sunday and Monday
we passed a smaller beach and a dramatic headland with good views of the Ile Tome
we took a taxi to the main beach (about €18) and caught the ferry to the Sept Isles
The extraordinary beachside chateau at Ploumanac’h
The skipper was extremely skilled and went very close to the rocks to get a better view of the gannets
They will take you into Ploumanac’h too if the tide is high enough
In the summer they also run ferries to the Îsle-de-Bréhats
The following day we enjoyed a beautiful hour-long walk along the coast to Ploumanac’h on a largely flat path with amazing views of the pink granite rocks worn smooth and often left delicately balanced by erosion from the elements
Gannets shroud a rocky headland in the Sept Isles
The forecast was for the wind to increase the following morning before Storm Miguel came whistling through a few days later with F8 to F9 gusts
so we decided to call an end to our Brittany boating adventure and head for home
We left at 09:00 French time to allow enough time to get back to Guernsey before the QEII marina closed
With a 1.5m following swell we made good at 29 knots and within two hours we were safely tucked up in Guernsey at the end of another fascinating Brittany boating adventure
Colin’s Princess V39 relishes the calm Brittany boating conditions off Roscoff
*N.B. All marina fees are for a 12m boat in 2019 prices. For more information on the marinas, visit: http://marinas.digimap.gg
‘Brittany boating guide: Princess owners explore France’s rugged coast’ was first published in the February 2021 issue of Motor Boat & Yachting
Vidya Amalia Rimayanti
TEMPO.CO, Jakarta - Traveling to a revered destination like France has sometimes lost its sense of peace
beneath the roaring crowds of Paris and Marseiles
these stunning small towns in France are absolutely spellbinding
a host of French countryside towns hit differently in the best way possible.
and Perros-Guirec are only some of the most fascinating small towns in France hailed for their breathtaking landscapes
Other praiseworthy regions according to Conde Nast Traveler and Travel & Leisure also include:
Cassis is one of the most graceful small towns in France as the beauty speaks for itself
Though it’s often overshadowed by a nearby superstar neighboring town
the fishing village never fails to capture the hearts of its beholders
exchanging rowdy throngs in popular tourist hubs with limestone cliffs
and rugged seascapes are always preferable.
Gordes catches the scenic wonders of France in a whole different perspective
Sprawling across its tiny size are endless stretches of lavender fields
It’s unsurprising that many honored artists including Victor Vasarely
Pol Mara have long claimed Gordes as their playground.
Gordes is alive and thriving with various cultural events held at its museums
From artistic exhibitions and vibrant festivals
every corner of Gordes is a memory to hold onto.
Perros-Guirec tells the essence of an idyllic seashore-resort like no other
with its striking pink hued granite belongings
It’s a cherished place for beachgoers and vacationers alike
given the vast expanse of powdery sands under the feet and many cafes around
the Sept-Îles National Nature Reserves is accessible by a short distance
creating wider holiday opportunities for birders.
Upholding a bright reputation as a popular member of the most beautiful villages of France
Vogüé has earned recognition from seasoned travelers
This pretty small town is everything that you might have dreamed of at least once – think of a romantic medieval castle
Be ready to get overwhelmed with spectacular views at every corner
a small church perched on the rock promising magical scenery of the castle.
Roussillon has all it takes to be hailed as one of the prettiest small towns in French
The unique village is quite literally brimming in ochre colors across its housing area and communal space
With the addition of green pine trees and blue sky on the side
the town’s color palette seems like it comes out of an acclaimed painting.
least touristy part of France situated in the Alpes-Maritimes
Peillon feels more like a hidden sanctuary than a tourist hotspot
the village offers little in the way of commercial bustle
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is often cited as one of the most stunning small towns in France for a variety of factors
It has a highly regarded community of ceramics and pottery tradition-turned tourism coupled with architectural wonders of old village walls
the pastel-colored town also boasts extensive accommodation and lodges.
Revel truly knows how to carry the title of the remarkable small town in France for its awe-inspiring Saturday market
Standing tall for over 600 years in operation
this market offers numerous products including vegetables
and vintage pieces from more than 200 sellers
Basking in the medieval views feels easy here
with remnants of centuries old stone buildings
Bergeim deserves a place of its own on the list
having been awarded as the country’s most favorite village in 2022
it’s unsurprising that a visit to this medieval town is synonymous to stepping back in time
the town is making a consistent effort in welcoming more tourists
promising walkable streets and friendly locals.
Hunspach was recognized as one the most beautiful villages in the nation
Hunspach is heavy with a seamless blend of French-German characters
From its sumptuous delicacies and distinctive dialects, to rare German-induced street names
Hunspach carries an exclusive identity.
In a country often associated with iconic landmarks and bustling metropolises, these hidden small towns in France prove that the country’s true magic lies in its quiet corners. So next time you dream of France, think beyond the Eiffel Tower. If you feel more at home in a quaint secluded village, consider also a trip to these beach towns in Italy.
Conde Nast Traveler | Travel & Leisure
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Nature created the world's finest adventure playground
stuck it on to the north-west corner of France
In equal parts familiar and pleasingly alien
it has all the vital ingredients for the sort of holiday that children will remember
although with more coastline (a whopping 2,800km compared with Cornwall's 480km) to explore
Brittany is so strong in cultural identity that locals often consider it a country in its own right
A two-hour trip including the island and Pink Granite Coast costs from €17 adult
A highlight is the new Zooparc de Trégomeur (00 33 2 96 79 01 07; zoo-tregomeur.com; €13.70 adult
€9.70 child) with animals and plants from Asia and Madagascar
The wild coast around Cap Fréhal is a must-see, not least for the jaw-dropping sight of Fort La Latte (00 33 2 96 41 57 11; castlelalatte.com
To the east of Côtes d'Armor is the medieval town of Dinan, near the Rance Estuary. This history lesson has an impressive rampart walk and a tourist train (00 33 2 99 88 47 07; ttdf.com; €5 adult
Otherwise known as "Haute Bretagne" (High Brittany)
Ille-et-Vilaine may have the smallest coastline of all four départements
but it packs a punch with the mighty bay of Mont St-Michel and the ancient ramparts of St-Malo
which greets Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth
Further inland there is much for families, from the animals at the Desert Goat Farm (00 33 2 99 58 92 14; €6.50 adult, €5.50 child) near Dol-de-Bretagne to the theme-park rides at Cobac Parc (00 33 2 99 73 80 16; cobac-parc.com; €16 adult
Morbihan also has the celebrated standing stones at Carnac
home to the most extensive Neolithic remains in Europe and are free
To bring the period alive, visit the Museum of Prehistory (00 33 2 97 52 22 04; museedecarnac.com; €5 adult; €2.50 child) in Carnac Village which offers school holiday workshops for six- to 12-year-olds on life in Neolithic times
Besides the Brittany Ferries crossings (fares start from £238 for a family of four and a car, rising to £579 in August), the region is accessible by road from all the other Channel ports. Or, fly from East Midlands or Stansted to Dinard with Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) . Flybe (0871 700 2000; flybe.com) flies to Rennes from Exeter
Manchester and Southampton; and to Brest from Birmingham
Jane Anderson is the author of the Footprint guide to Brittany with Kids (£13.99). Independent readers can claim 25 per cent off any of the Footprint Travel with Kids series at footprinttravelguides.com by entering IND7 in the coupon code at checkout
You need not venture far from the ferry to find a crowd-pleaser: the Grand Plage at Dinard is a fine
go west to the Baie des Trépassés on the Atlantic Finistère coast
It's a good place for beachcombing as the tide brings a varied bounty to this unusually deep bay
It's also a great surf beach and there's a lifeguard in summer
Check out Sensation Bretagne (00 33 2 97 53 67 64; sensation-bretagne.com)
have all sorts of free events for families such as beach clubs
Brittany has 840km of Voies Vertes ("Green Ways") – paths that follow routes of old railways, towpaths and forest trails. Breton Bikes (00 33 2 96 24 86 72; bretonbikes.com) can arrange child-friendly cycling routes and pre-booked campsites along the way
Camping costs from £195 per week for an adult and from £190 a week for a child
Gîte or hotel-based tours are also available
Vast swathes of netting are strung among mighty Californian Golden Jubilee pines
allowing visitors to scramble and bounce around this woody wonderland
which look like big balloons snagged in the branches
are waterproof spherical tents designed by Chien Noir
They wouldn't look out of place in a design hotel
with a large round mattress filling the 3m diameter
Each nest is large enough for two adults and two small children
Nests cost €69 for two people; breakfast is €8 per person
Océanopolis (00 33 2 98 34 40 40; oceanopolis.com; €16.50 adult
is one of the region's best-loved attractions and is on a scale more in keeping with a holiday in Florida than rural France
the emphasis is on education as much as spectacle
with four ocean pavilions covering Temperate
The Eric Tarbarly Sailing Museum (00 33 2 97 65 56 56; citevoile-tabarly.com; €11 adult
de-mystifies the world of sailing with inventive interactive features such as a trimaran simulator
Inspired by the French yachtsman Eric Tabarly (1931-1998)
it's the closest you will ever come to sailing on dry land
It can be found at Base des Sous-Marins de Kéroman
kids can meet the Black Widow spider that bit Spider-Man
By far the cheapest family option is camping. There are plenty of good options, including Camping des Menhirs (00 33 2 97 52 94 67; lesmenhirs.com)
which is just a short stroll from the standing stones of Carnac and its beach resort
Camping des Menhirs is one of 12 sites across Brittany used by Keycamp (0844 406 0319; keycamp.co.uk)
which also offers mobile homes with kitchen
Keycamp offers seven nights starting on 18 August for a family of two adults and up to four children staying in a Villagrand mobile home at Les Deux Fontaines from £992
This campsite is near the white sands of Plage Tahiti
For a more traditional gîte, Kervec Farmhouse (01425 650511; mybrittanyholidayhouse.com)
a kitchen with stone open fire and utility room
Rental of the farmhouse costs from £800 per week; the Old Dairy costs from £450 per week
Hotel des deux Mers (00 33 2 97 52 33 75; hotel-des-deux-mers.com) is a family hotel with oodles of local character set between two coastlines on the Quiberon Peninsula
and there are interconnecting rooms for families
diving and fishing are all on the doorstep
For a true one-off, check out Auberge des VoyaJoueurs (00 33 2 97 93 22 18; auberge-des-voyajoueurs.com). This new hotel south of Broceliande has a board-game theme, with 400 games, including a giant Connect 4. Doubles from €69 per night, room only.
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