From Nashville to New York, chefs are wrapping bold, unexpected fillings — like cheeseburgers, kimchi, and duck à l’orange — in intricately scored puff pastry.
Caroline is a Southern-born and New York-based restaurant industry writer, casserole aficionado, and former prep cook. She has covered the hospitality industry for more than a decade.
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00:00:58Weekend recipe inspiration with Nadiya's chicken pithivier
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A magnificent puff pastry pie stuffed full of cheese and spuds makes a showstopping dinner
Our resident perfectionist takes you through the steps
though these days a pithivier is just as likely to be savoury
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Difficult as it was to narrow it down, I’ve decided to focus on a cheese-and-potato filling, for the sole reason that a pithivier is, in Bake Off parlance
and in my experience nothing stops shows as well as molten cheese
which involves cutting out pastry like a tulip
then bringing the petals together on top to seal
but I’m too clumsy and end up with a cheese Vesuvius
I’d stick with the standard two-sheet method below
they’re rather crunchy for my testers’ tastes
Franklin goes as far as to make a dauphinoise
then baking them in a slab before putting them in his pie
given that you’ve probably already been busy making pastry
I’m going to keep things simpler with slices of cooked potato
Australian food writer Phoebe Wood deserves a special mention for filling her pie with crushed potato
we prefer something with a bit more structural integrity
especially because the cheese layer above it should
View image in fullscreenMark Hix’s cheese pithivier features lactic lancashire.I use lactic lancashire in Hix’s recipe
the results of which remind me pleasurably of our own cheese-and-onion pies
mature cheddar in Franklin’s; the Waitrose version demands nutty gruyere and Wood salty crumbled feta
are very tasty – potatoes and cheese always make a handsome couple – with the feta in particular adding a refreshingly light
but I’m after a cheese that will melt almost like a gravy
which makes Blackwell’s Alpine reblochon the obvious candidate
Reblochon is not the easiest cheese to get hold of and
its chief attraction is the obliging way it behaves when heated
substitute roughly 150g grated hard cheese
I’d strongly counsel ridding it of as much water as possible before letting it anywhere near the puff
Because of the nature of the cheese I’m using
I don’t think the potatoes need the creamy sauce that some recipes include
as in Blackwell’s almost tartiflette-like filling
because their savoury flavour works so well with the other ingredients
If you’d prefer to keep your pithivier meat-free
rest assured that you will not be missing out by omitting them
View image in fullscreenFelicity’s hybrid pithivier: just right.I don’t think you need to get too clever here
so I won’t be adding fennel or caraway seeds
or rosemary (both Franklin and Desmazery); a pinch of thyme and a grating of nutmeg with the leeks will do
Don’t be tempted to gild the lily; this dish is magnificent enough on its own
preferably waxy ones (eg charlotte or desiree)Salt100g unsmoked bacon lardons
or chopped thick-cut bacon (optional)2 sprigs fresh thyme
to taste700g puff pastry (see introduction)Flour
for rolling1 medium soft cheese (eg reblochon
View image in fullscreenBring a large pan of salted water to a boil
add them to the pan and boil for about six to eight minutes
View image in fullscreenIf omitting the bacon
fry the lardons in a large frying pan over a medium heat until it’s lightly golden and starting to give off its oil
then add the potatoes and toss gently to coat
then tip into a bowl and leave to cool completely
View image in fullscreenHeat the fat over a medium-low heat in the same frying pan
then saute the leeks until soft but not browned
View image in fullscreenMeanwhile
wrap one half well and put it back in the fridge
Roll out the remaining pastry half on a lightly floured surface to about 5mm thick
then cut out a circle the size of a large dinner plate and put on a lined baking sheet
Chill until the filling ingredients are cold
View image in fullscreenSpread out the cooled leeks in the middle of the pastry circle
leaving a couple of centimetres free around the edges …
View image in fullscreen… then arrange the potato and lardons mix on top
View image in fullscreenPush the cheese down on top of the potatoes
building the potatoes up around it to give the filling a gently rounded profile
View image in fullscreenRoll out the second half of the pastry into a circle a little larger than the first
Brush the edges of the filled piece of pastry with egg wash
then carefully drape the second sheet over the top and press down all around the edges to seal
View image in fullscreenCut a small hole in the centre of the top
then score curved lines all over the top down from the hole to the edge
being careful not to cut all the way through
View image in fullscreenHeat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6
The pithivier: are you a frangipane traditionalist
or do you agree that this beautiful pie is too good to confine to dessert
chef Jacques Torres’ gâteau pithivier sits freshly baked in a display case
The round cake is the color of honey and unadorned save for painstakingly detailed swirls cut into the flaky surface
The first bite presents flavors of warm buttery pastry and lush almond cream
Torres has memorized the details of this traditional French dessert by heart—he’s been working on it since he was 16 years old
Today, Jacques Torres is a renowned chocolatier. His namesake shops dole out signature boxed chocolates, giant cookies and insanely rich hot cocoa to loyal fans. His path to acclaim included work at Le Negresco in Nice and Le Cirque in New York; currently he is dean of pastry arts at the International Culinary Center
a leading training ground for professionals
Torres’ success is linked to his culinary creations from the cocoa bean
but less known is his love of another ingredient: the almond
Torres’ first culinary apprenticeship was at a pastry shop in the Provençal seaside resort town of Bandol
specialized in pithiviers ("pee-tee-vee-YAY")
“We weren’t free to eat anything we wanted in that pastry shop,” says Torres
“Every time I could get my hands on one—this is one of my great memories of doing the apprenticeship in France and having that cake.”
“We used to put fresh almonds on the stove and let them roast very slowly
and the whole house used to smell like almonds,” he remembers
“Provence almonds are really good; they have great flavor.”
These memories are embodied in Torres’ pithivier
The dessert gains popularity in the wintertime due to its similarity to the galette des rois
the traditional king cake that celebrates the Feast of the Epiphany
The pithivier is made of simple ingredients
Torres recommends buying premade puff pastry and almond flour
That leaves timing as the main consideration
“You cannot bake a pithivier in 10 or 20 minutes; it takes a minimum of 40 minutes,” he says
“This is one of the things that a lot of pastry chefs make a mistake with
You have to let that puff pastry bake a long time at a low temperature.” Otherwise
the chef runs the risk of under-cooked pastry and an unpleasant mouthfeel
pastry chefs created a shine on the cake by dusting powdered sugar over the top and cranking up the oven temperature to melt the sugar into a caramelized layer
and it’s often difficult to achieve even distribution
he adds a very thin layer of corn syrup and increases the oven temperature by a few degrees
creates shine and enhances color and crunch
A holiday dessert isn't complete without a tradition of sharing it with family and friends
a lot of times they expect me to bring a cake,” Torres quips
He keeps a handful of pithiviers in the freezer uncooked and brings one to holiday get-togethers
Torres has the process down to a T: “During dinner
the middle of dinner I go and put on the corn syrup
and by dessert the whole house smells like buttery almonds—it’s delicious
People jump on that thing like you have no idea,” he laughs
the only thing left to do is pair the cake with an appropriate after-dinner wine
Torres recommends a dessert wine that will complement the buttery mouthfeel of the gâteau
Wine Spectator recommends 12 white sweet wines that have scored 88 points or higher
including some of the more reasonably priced versions from the French regions of Sauternes and neighboring Barsac
along with other wines from diverse regions and grape varieties that share flavor characteristics well-suited to this style of dessert
place in a pastry bag (or large Ziploc bag) and set aside
Whisk together the ingredients in a small bowl until well combined
Cut the sheet of puff pastry in half and roll each half into an 8 1/2-inch circle
Place one of the circles on a parchment paper–covered baking pan
If using a plastic bag instead of a pastry bag for the almond cream
then pipe the cream into the center of the puff pastry
The mound of cream should be about 1-inch high
Lightly brush the rim of the pastry circle with the egg wash
Place the second circle of puff pastry over the almond cream
Gently press down the outer edges to remove any trapped air
Seal the edges of the two layers by pressing the top edge into the bottom edge
This will keep the almond cream from running out as it bakes
Use a sharp knife to give the circle a fluted edge
It should look like a flower when finished
Use a sharp knife to pierce a 1/2-inch slit in the top layer at the center of the cake
This will allow steam to escape during baking
To create the classic pattern on the surface
use a sharp knife to score a curved line from the center to the edge of the cake
but be careful not to cut through the top layer of puff pastry
Let the pithivier rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour before baking
you can wrap the pithivier in plastic wrap and freeze for up to 2 weeks.)
Increase baking temperature by 5° F and immediately return the cake to the oven to bake for another 15 minutes
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(CNN) -- French workers on Thursday freed the manager of a factory run by U.S
company 3M held hostage in his office for more than 24 hours in a labor dispute over terms for laid-off staff
eats in his office while he was held hostage
was allowed to leave the plant in Pithiviers
early on Thursday morning after talks between unions and officials from 3M France
"We have an agreement with 3M that they will provide the means to respond to our demands," union representative Jean-Francois Caparros told news agency AFP
"The negotiations will resume and that's a very good thing," said Rousselet as he left an office where he took refuge on Tuesday afternoon
"I am very happy for the employees of the Pithiviers factory. I know that this was a very difficult lay-off plan for them," he said as workers shouted "Scoundrel boss!" Is there any justification for taking this action?
The 3M factory at the center of the dispute makes pharmaceutical products and employs 235 people
Of those 110 are being cut this year and 40 more are being transferred to another plant
Rousselet was briefing the laid-off workers about a compensation package but retreated to his office after feeling threatened
said: "Initially we didn't want to hold him
"It was despair and distress which made us do this," added Cyril Foufelle
has announced thousands of job cuts around the world amid the economic downturn
and Europe over job cuts and high bonuses for executives whose companies have been rescued with taxpayers' money
Earlier this month the boss of Sony France was held overnight before workers freed him after he agreed to reopen talks on compensation when the factory closed
And last week angry tire factory workers threw eggs at their bosses in a protest over the closure of their plant
about 80 kilometers (50 miles) south of Paris
came as figures showed the number of jobless in France rose nearly 80,000 in February to reach 2.38 million
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The Pithiviers train station in France is being turned into a Holocaust memorial museum
(JTA) – An abandoned train station in eastern France that during the Holocaust became the first concentration camp for Jews in that country is being rebuilt as a memorial museum
The Pithiviers station saw in May 1941 the arrival of more than 3,500 Jews without French citizenship
whom authorities ordered to report to police stations in Paris following the Nazi invasion into France that month
The massive deportations of French Jews from Paris and beyond began in earnest approximately a year after the deportation to Pithiviers of Jews without French passports
That was even before Jews were being murdered en masse in Auschwitz
The Pithiviers station had remained unused for years after the Holocaust and therefore was not changed from when it was used as a gathering and dispatch point for Jews sent to be murdered in Eastern Europe
the France3 television channel reported last week
Schools in the region have been bringing pupils to Pithiviers for years
Local authorities said they would devote hundreds of thousands of euros to preserving the place
setting up educational exhibitions on its walls and declaring it a historical monument
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Underneath this pastry from Boulud is a decadent consommé with duck
Photographer: Liz Clayman for Bloomberg Businessweek
the resurrection of elaborate savory pastries is remarkable
Dishes like beef Wellington were last seen dominating conversation in the Mad Men era
but chefs today are back to wrapping crusts around ingredients in a manner that would make Henry VIII hungry
With restaurants currently restricted in the ways they can wow diners
belly-filling presentation that attracts attention on social media is a smart business model
“It’s a culmination of key regional ingredients
and a little nostalgia that transports you to a simpler time,” chef-owner Finn Walter says
Georges Horan: "The Children Entering the Search Barrack
Liliane Zonszajn's name on the wall of the Rosiers-Joseph Migneret Garden
Holocaust survivor Jeannine Bouhanna (née Sebbane) describes the events that transpired in her building and her neighborhood during the Vel d'Hiv roundup on 16 July 1942
Jeannine Bouhanna (née Sebbane) relates how she would receive news of her deported neighbors by mail
The members of the Sebbane family were not on the list of Jews to be arrested during the Vel d'Hiv roundup
Their neighbors wrote to the Sebbanes from the Vel d'Hiv and from various camps in the Loiret region
The Zonszajns were Polish immigrants from Siedlce
who moved to Paris and settled in the Jewish quarter in the 4th arrondissement (district)
They lived at 43 Vieille du Temple Street
and deported on Convoy 4 to Auschwitz on 26 June 1942
was arrested with her children during the Vel d'Hiv roundup
They were held together with their neighbors
Sura was separated from her children and deported with the Polakiewiczs on Convoy 14 to Auschwitz
10-year-old Jacques (Jackie) Zonszajn and his 3-year-old sister Liliane Zonszajn were left behind in Pithiviers following the deportation of their mother and neighbors
wrote a final letter to the Sebbane family describing their ordeal
describing the attempt to survive in Pithiviers
Jeanine Bouhana (née Sebbane) recalls how Jackie's letter described Liliane's extreme distress following the separation from their mother and how he was unable to comfort her
Jackie was eventually deported with his sister on 19 August 1942 on Convoy 21
They were both murdered in Auschwitz five days later
Szoma Zonszajn was already a registered prisoner at Auschwitz
having passed the selection earlier that summer
he was sent on the Gross-Rosen death march with 50,000 other inmates
The appalling conditions he endured on the death march eventually took their toll
and Szoma perished in Buchenwald on 20 February 1945
succumbing to frostbite and a septic infection
“doesn’t want there to be any compromises”
which employed the majority of this foursome
the group decided they wanted to see their project through instead of going back.)
Menu Extra’s “takeout pop-ups” entailed occupying a restaurant for a day
churning out upscale takes on unpretentious Quebec classics like hot chicken
and generating proceeds for local charities struggling to get the help they needed from the government
‘Why not use our visibility from winning the shows to help during these hard times?”
Menu Extra’s first event was held at La Prunelle and hauled in $3,000 for Les Banques alimentaires du Québec
equivalent to 8,000 meals dispensed by the food bank
A few hundred shrimp rolls served at Île Flottante during the second iteration of the pop-up series fetched $4,155 for Pour 3 Point
an organization supporting underprivileged youth in the region
Menu Extra donated $7,007 to Foyer du Monde
a mutual aid organization dedicated to asylum seekers and refugees settling in Quebec
as the result of a lasagna night held at Griffintown’s Nora Gray
Food wise, the thinking was to take beloved, albeit “kind of trashy,” Quebec classics and inject them with some “top chef” know-how, Blais explains. During their takeover of Little Italy restaurant Moccione, for instance, Blais and Nascimento took a stab at recreating the infamous pizzaghetti
but with a sourdough crust that had been cultured over a long stretch of time and a nest of home-spun pasta
where I was pitching some ideas to Luca Cianciulli [of Moccione]
And I remember how I was kind of shy to pitch this idea because I knew it totally goes against everything he believes in,” Blais laughs
the team transplanted Menu Extra to vineyards and farms outside of Montreal
where large swaths of bare land gave way to more elaborate experiences
in ways the abridged takeout stagings of their events couldn’t
The tasting menu for a pop-up held at Fragments winery in Ripon
the Menu Extra team this past weekend debuted a small takeout and delivery operation
hinges on just one dish: a flaky enclosed pastry pie
The dish holds a particular significance to Blais after having steered him to victory in the finale of Top Chef Canada
“The pithivier allows me to prove to myself that I can pull off something really technical in a short amount of time and under extreme pressure
But it also reflects my love for French cuisine and classics
to a classic is also part of my cooking style,” Blais says
the pithivier is made with foie gras and duck
there will also be a vegan version.) It’s served alongside a salad of blackened onions and a corn-flavoured ice cream topped with a caramel miso syrup for dessert
The miso cameo hints at another of Menu Extra’s ventures: a fermented Japanese condiment business (think soya
“Our plan was to have both a restaurant and a condiment business
but we decided to focus on condiments first while hosting these pop-ups,” Blais says
The team is based out of the space once occupied by Osteria da Elda on Saint-Laurent
and Blais says the Mile End location may someday house their restaurant
But I don’t want to say much more than that because we might end up using the spot for something else instead
and where the team’s first restaurant does open
high-end outfit prioritizing high-quality local ingredients and carefully orchestrated tasting menus
“We don’t even want transactions being done at the restaurant; you would have to buy your tickets online prior to the meal
and we don’t want there to be any compromises.”
Menu Extra is taking orders for takeout or delivery online at menuextra.ca
Richard Frenkel received a carved wooden letter-opener from his father Nissan
Richard and his mother Esther were arrested in Paris and sent to the Pithiviers camp
Esther was deported to Auschwitz and murdered
in a sealed cattle-car filled with strangers
A few days after Nissan sent the present to his son
A letter opener that served also as a penholder
made by Nissan Frenkel for his son Richard
The detainees were sent to the detention camps of Pithiviers and Beaune-la-Rolande
was one of those sent to Beaune-la-Rolande
Nissan sent his two-year-old son Richard a present: a carved wooden letter-opener
thousands of French gendarmes arrested over 11,000 foreign Jews at the behest of the German authorities
and was therefore arrested in Paris together with her son Richard
They were incarcerated in the Winter Stadium
The Jews were held there in extremely crowded conditions
Esther and Richard were transferred from the Vel d'Hiv to the Pithiviers concentration camp south of Paris
Esther was deported to Auschwitz and murdered
In the two months after the Vel D'Hiv roundup
approximately 1000 Jews were deported to Auschwitz every two-three days
organized by the French authorities and carried out by French gendarmes
has been seared in the French collective memory as a symbol of French responsibility for the fate of the Jews of France during the Holocaust
Yad Vashem Artifacts CollectionDonated by Nelly Weinstock
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The page you are looking for has apparently been moved
We are therefore redirecting you to what we hope will be a useful landing page
For any questions/clarifications/problems, please contact: webmaster@yadvashem.org.il
leek and potato pithiviersBy 9Honey | Kitchen
Line trays with baking paper.Melt butter in frying pan over medium to high heat
place potato slices in boiling water and cook for 6 to 8 mins
Let cool while cutting pastry rounds.Cut 4 x 15cm discs and 4 x 12cm discs from puff pastry
Place 2 smaller discs on each lined baking tray and lay potato slices evenly on pastry bottoms
then divide mushroom mix evenly among 4 pithiviers
Top with larger pastry discs; press edges of each pithivier firmly together and brush with egg.Bake for 25 to 30 mins
swapping trays around on racks after 15 mins
Serve with salad.These traditionally sweet "cakes" are named after a town in France
we've used savoury ingredients to make scrumptious little pies
Property News: A beach box on an exclusive stretch of Victorian coastline has sold for a record price
Updated 11/6/21 with new pictures and opening date
frankly) Hot Dinners' heads always turn at the promise of Provencal rosé (we like it very pale in colour)
So when news of a new rosé bar coming to Harrods reached us
The bar is called Juliette's and comes from Unlocked Brands, the same people who are behind the recently opened Homestead on London City Island (and they're getting the help of Victoria Sheppard (who co-owns the recently opened Queen's of Mayfair)
Details are thin on the ground right now - but we do know that it's going to have both indoor and outdoor dining which includes a large terrace on the Basil Street side of Harrods (taking up the space where Laduree used to be)
As for food - we do know they'll have pithiviers
This latest bar is merely the latest new opening from Harrods who have clearly been very busy during the lockdown with both a new Chocolate Hall and a new Jason Atherton restaurant being launched too.
How to book: book online
Find out more: Follow them on Instagram @juliette_knightsbridge
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2022Get email notification for articles from Gaby Levin FollowJul 27
2022Only half a mile separates the Eiffel Tower from a small garden in the 15th arrondissement at the corner of Boulevard de Grenélle and rue Nélaton Street
where a plaque commemorates one of the most tragic chapters in French history
the Vel’ d’Hiv’ – short for Vélodrome d’Hiver
(Winter Velodrome) – stood in this location
It was an indoor stadium with a cycling track and tennis and basketball courts
Citing "mistakes" made by the collaborationist Vichy regime
the council of state said the government's share of blame was clear in acts which had not been forced on it by the occupiers and which "allowed or facilitated the deportation from France of victims of antisemitism"
which will be recorded in the official state legislative journal
marks the first time any French judicial body has acknowledged in such stark terms the government's role in Nazi-era atrocities
Calling for a "formal admission of the state's responsibility and of the prejudice collectively suffered"
the court said it had concluded that acts such as the arrest
internment and dispatching of Jews to transit camps were clear indicators of the government's guilt
"As they led to the deportation of people considered Jewish by the Vichy regime
The move was welcomed by historians and Jewish groups
many of whom have expressed disbelief at France's unwillingness to face up to its actions
From 1942 to 1944 a stream of Jews were rounded up by Vichy authorities
and by the end of the war some 76,000 had been deported to Nazi concentration camps
Although under the overall control of the SS
from which 63,000 people were sent to their deaths
"It is a decision with which I am content," Serge Klarsfeld, the leading French historian of the Holocaust
"France is showing now that she is at the forefront of countries which are confronting their past
which was not the case even in the 1990s."
the suffering of French Jews at the hands of their countrymen was buried
insisted France "was never involved" in ill-treatment of its Jewish population
and it was not until Jacques Chirac in 1995 that a head of state admitted France's "inescapable guilt"
issued in connection with the individual case of a deportee's daughter requesting damages
did however find that the current French state had largely made up for the sins of its past
Apparently ruling out any reparations for victims or their families
the court said the acts had been "compensated for" through various means since 1945
whose postwar research was the first to reveal the extent of France's complicity in the deportations
agreed that enough had been done in recent years
"The people asking now for other forms of compensation have often already got something with the measures in place," he said
With restaurant menus leaning heavily into retro dishes
Originating in the French town of Pithiviers
beautifully pleated top sits like a fancy cap above the filling – mushroom
meat or even sweet almond – with a layer of pastry beneath
travel spots and more – curated by those who know
This article first appeared in Domain Reveiw in partnership with Broadsheet
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It is now half a century since this work appeared
But his life and writings continue to inspire and challenge
Trocmé was no armchair scholar. Nor was he an easily swayed follower of cultural trends. He is best known for his remarkable work as pastor of Le Chambon
Jewish people in France – including those who had escaped from other parts of Europe – found themselves in mortal danger when the Vichy regime agreed to collaborate with Nazi Germany
"The duty of Christians is to use the weapons of the Spirit to oppose the violence that they will try to put on our consciences," he and his fellow-pastor Edouard Theis urged their Protestant congregation
and doing good to our adversaries is our duty
We shall resist whenever our adversaries demand of us obedience contrary to the orders of the gospel."
Under the leadership of Trocmé and his wife Magda
the villagers saved the lives of thousands of refugees
hiding them and smuggling some to safety across the Swiss border
and his cousin Daniel died in a concentration camp
But the villagers continued to shelter those in danger
After the war, Trocmé was awarded the Rosette de la Résistance by the French government. He served as European secretary for the Fellowship of Reconciliation
and spent time in Algeria and Morocco before writing Jesus and the Nonviolent Revolution
Based on a careful reading of the Gospels in their socio-cultural context, he argued that the concept of jubilee, based on the "year of the Lord's favour" when debts would be cancelled
slaves liberated and land returned to its original owners
was at the heart of Jesus's life and teaching
This ancient law – though not always observed – was aimed at preventing accumulation of wealth and power in a few hands
came to proclaim God's kingdom of love and justice
to transform "institutions as well as hearts"
The early church, as described in Acts, did practice a radical ethic of sharing, although, according to Trocmé, after Emperor Constantine converted to Christianity this was largely abandoned
"Over the centuries the jubilee light dimmed but did not go out."
"When the church turns its back on the way of Jesus
its ethical teaching is lost in the intricacies of mediocre casuistry and its members fall into pharisaic moralism." But he added: "The church that announces God's jubilee
and puts it into practice as the Spirit blows
will show practical solutions to the problems of exploitation
the church will once again find its place in the world."
drawing attention to Gandhi's example: people could never be treated as merely a means to an end
"Jesus proclaimed a unique revolution
Unlike his contemporaries he refused to resist evil on its own terms." Christ-like nonviolence "is rooted in love
and is therefore above all a witness to God"
Nor could abstract principles or institutional interests be put above concern for individuals
Since then there has been rapid technological progress
deep inequality persists between and within countries and violence claims thousands of lives each day
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A warming pie from the executive chef at Adelaide restaurant Press Food and Wine.
Words by Broadsheet· Updated on 23 Apr 2025· Published on 14 Jul 2017
“I want to make vegetarian dishes that anyone wants to eat.” On a menu with entire sections dedicated to offal
the mushroom pithivier (pie) has become a crowd favourite
Davies and his culinary team must be doing something right
The dish combines creamy mushroom ragu with soft taleggio cheese and light disks of puff pastry
“I go to the Gepps Cross Market on a Sunday and buy boxes of seconds mushrooms,” says Davies
“They’re slightly older so when you make a ragu they’re gooey and mushroomy and deep in colour and pungent
if you use brown mushrooms you have to cook the hell out of them
It’s like trying to make tomato sauce out of unripe tomatoes.”
Press makes its own puff pastry but Davies suggests using Carême pastry
Truffled Mushroom and Taleggio Pithivier with Cauliflower Puree
cut into 1cm cubes 100g butter 1 medium brown onion
minced 4 sprigs thyme 250ml thickened cream 4 tbsp good quality truffle paste (tartufata)
finely chopped 500ml cream 150ml milk 100g butter Salt and white pepper
Pithivier Sheets of puff pastry Egg wash 100g good quality tallegio cheese
To make the filling Place a thick-based pot on a high heat
getting lots of colour and caramelisation on the mushrooms
When suitably cooked and most liquid evaporated
thyme and garlic and sweat until translucent
Add the mushrooms back into the pot and cook for a further 2 minutes allowing the flavours to marry
Add the cream and reduce until the mix becomes thick
To make the cauliflower puree Heat a thick-based pot on medium
bring to simmer and cook until the cauliflower is soft
retaining both the cream and the cauliflower
add the cauliflower to a food processor and blitz until smooth
Add the butter and enough of the reserved cream for a velvet-like consistency
Building the pithivier Cut an 11cm-diameter ring of puff pastry
then place a 7cm ring cutter on top and fill it with the mushroom mix
Egg wash the remaining pastry on show around the mushroom mix
When you’re ready to put the pithivier in the oven
place the 12cm piece of pastry over the top and press down the edges to seal
starting from the middle and moving outwards
Tip: after 4 minutes give it another brush of egg wash
To serve Pour a generous amount of cauliflower puree into the middle of the plate and place the cooked pithivier on top
Fill the rest of the plate out with some dressed
Check out more mushroom recipes from top chefs with our mushroom recipe collection. And for more dishes to cook once the mercury drops, check out our winter recipe series
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we take a look at the most labor-intensive dishes around
creating a dish from scratch can be a labour-intensive process
There’s only one way to put it: Making food for others is truly a labour of love
we ask chefs of MICHELIN-starred restaurants about all the blood
and tears that go into making their signature dishes—from pithivier to pigeon
VEA One MICHELIN Star
MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2021Dish: Abalone pithivier
True to VEA’s Chinese x French culinary philosophy
the abalone pithivier is a testament to VEA’s commitment to excellence
The star ingredients include a whole 27-head Japanese oma abalone and a pithivier
both of which are prepared in the most traditional ways
resulting in an art form that truly represents the best of both worlds
The most labour-intensive part of the dish is the pivithier
a traditional French pastry that wraps around the braised abalone
“The pithivier is hand laminated with no machine involved,” says Vicky Cheng
“The only way to make the process more efficient is to do more of it
There’s no shortcut and it’s always going to be time-consuming.”
The preparation work for the abalone is no easy task
The cooked abalone is then tightly sealed with spinach leaves by hand
finished with an abalone sauce that is made two days in advance to achieve the perfect consistency
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Caprice Three MICHELIN Stars
MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2021Dish: Racan pigeon from Maison Bellorr cooked in a cocoa pod
is cooked in a cocoa pod from Vietnam and served with salsify
The most laborious step of this signature dish
the pigeon is first pan-fried with a stock base that takes five hours to complete daily
It is then oven-baked in a cocoa shell to bring out the aroma of cocoa
The chocolate sauce serves as a final touch
What’s chef Guillaume’s tips on nailing labour-intensive recipes
the team has to execute the dish with the same quality every time and anytime.”
Man Wah One MICHELIN Star
MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2021Dish: Deep-fried matsutake mushroom pudding
Man Wah has reintroduced a couple of refined classics
Originally made with sea urchin before the renovation
the current version is given a vegetarian twist using Japanese matsutake mushroom
An age-old recipe of Dashijie passed down to executive chef Wong Wing Keung
Guo Ja is described as a “lost art” with a history that can be traced back to as early as the Ching Dynasty
Guo Ja is made with egg yolks and corn flour
which creates a pudding mixture that requires at least 14 minutes of continuous hand-stirring
This labour-intensive step is essential to ensure the silkiness of the batter
the hand-stirring part is now replaced by an electric mixer in the Man Wah kitchen
it is then set in the freezer before getting deep-fried until golden brown
RELEVANT: Man Wah To Reopen With A Focus on Time-Honoured Cantonese Dishes
Tate Two MICHELIN Stars
MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2021Dish: Brioche with tofu butter
that’s the case for restaurants that take their bread service seriously
the brioche with tofu butter truly sets the tone for a French dining experience steep in Cantonese influence
as “one of the most simple yet complicated processes in food making.” Patience is key
as each dough needs to be proofed twice and the temperature has to be low for the butter to mix in while remaining creamy
and milk mixed with yeast and flour exudes a sense of comfort that will leave you craving more
RELEVANT: Meet The 22 Female Chefs Who Lead Michelin Star Restaurants In Asia
AmberTwo MICHELIN Stars
MICHELIN Guide Hong Kong Macau 2021Dish: Aka Uni
an iconic dish that is almost synonymous with Amber
culinary director Richard Ekkebus tasked himself with a challenge to reinterpret the Aka Uni with a dairy-free approach
The richness of the cream in the original version has been replaced with enriched soy
achieved by a technique that whips soy into a light cream texture
Hokkaido full-fat milk has been swapped for almond milk
while butter has been replaced with coconut fat
“Animal fat doesn’t allow the quality of the seafood to express fully
leaner and more expressive,” says the chef
Topped with a heaping portion of dome-shaped Daurenki Tsar Imperial caviar
the Aka Uni is layered with crustacean gelee
cream sea urchin and sweet cauliflower purée
all meticulously encased in a white porcelain uni cup
Pearl is the Digital Editor of MICHELIN Guides Asia
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Save lists of your favorite restaurants & hotels
There\u2019s only one way to put it: Making food for others is truly a labour of love
and tears that go into making their signature dishes\u2014from pithivier to pigeon
VEA One MICHELIN Star
True to VEA\u2019s Chinese x French culinary philosophy
the abalone pithivier is a testament to VEA\u2019s commitment to excellence
\u201cThe pithivier is hand laminated with no machine involved,\u201d says Vicky Cheng
\u201cThe only way to make the process more efficient is to do more of it
There\u2019s no shortcut and it\u2019s always going to be time-consuming.\u201d
RELEVANT: MICHELIN Movers and Shakers: Vicky Cheng's WING, Jun Tanaka's Salisterra and More New Ventures
Caprice Three MICHELIN Stars
What\u2019s chef Guillaume\u2019s tips on nailing labour-intensive recipes
the team has to execute the dish with the same quality every time and anytime.\u201d
Man Wah One MICHELIN Star
Guo Ja is described as a \u201clost art\u201d with a history that can be traced back to as early as the Ching Dynasty
RELEVANT: Man Wah To Reopen With A Focus on Time-Honoured Cantonese Dishes
Tate Two MICHELIN Stars
that\u2019s the case for restaurants that take their bread service seriously
as \u201cone of the most simple yet complicated processes in food making.\u201d Patience is key
When torn apart while it\u2019s still warm
RELEVANT: Meet The 22 Female Chefs Who Lead Michelin Star Restaurants In Asia
AmberTwo MICHELIN Stars
\u201cAnimal fat doesn\u2019t allow the quality of the seafood to express fully
leaner and more expressive,\u201d says the chef
cream sea urchin and sweet cauliflower pur\u00e9e
There are definitely some pictures that don't need more than a handful of words to go with them and this is one of them
All you need to know is that this braised ox cheek pithivier is going to be on the menu at Marcus from this Sunday
Created by the restaurant's sous chef Craig Johnston
the dish for two comes with pomme puree and Madiera truffle sauce
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Twitter @marcusbelgravia
View on Google maps
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ShareThis is part of the "March 2022 hit list: Where to eat and drink in Sydney this month" collection See all stories.The best time to join the queue is 8am
when the full range is available.Edwina PicklesCafe$$$$
When Lode Pies opened in Surry Hills in November
they didn't expect so many people to turn up
"We basically got smashed," says co-owner Federico Zanellato
The team were pulling 700 pastries from the oven
placing them on display and then watching them disappear
Everything was gone within two hours of opening
the queues have been long: one line stretched for 100 metres
with people waiting over an hour to step into Lode Pies
It has the aura of a beauty salon that deals in high-end treatments and serums
it feels like you're about to eat pastries in an Aesop store
The designer look reflects the intense level of craft that goes into every croissant
It also partly explains the lines: you're queuing for baked goods by Zanellato
LuMi and Restaurant Leo's award-winning chef
and his co-owner Lorenzo Librino (also from LuMi)
Lode co-owners and chefs Federico Zanellato (left) and Lorenzo Librino.Jessica HromasThe star pithivier from LuMi's two-hat degustation menu has been reimagined as the LuMi pie, filled with wagyu brisket instead of free-range Berkshire pork.
This dome-shaped pastry, which the French have made for centuries, is so tricky to execute it was off-limits to Zanellato when he was a junior chef in London decades ago.
He dreamed of being allowed to score the pinwheeling lines that adorn its puff pastry surface, but his first attempts at LuMi, in 2018, led to months of tears.
The Crown On 487 is a croissant-dough bracelet adorned with raspberry glaze, rose petals and pistachio crumbs.Edwina PicklesAdvertisementSometimes the pithivier wouldn't puff properly, or stuffing would spill out of its trademark chimney or his hands would be bruised from laminating the butter into the dough with a rolling pin.
Now he has a dough sheeter, which makes laminating easier (and bruise-free), but producing the pithivier is still an involving process. To make 50 serves, it takes one person 12 hours a day.
Then there's the chicken jus, with reduced cream and shiitake mushrooms, that you pour down the chimney to fully flavour the pithivier.
Mr Peanut: a croissant swirl richly flavoured with peanut butter frangipane, caramelised banana, chocolate and toasted brown butter.Edwina Pickles"The reason why we are charging $20 is because it's labour-intensive, it takes a long, long time to make it," he says.
The menu's cost doesn't just reflect the intense handiwork required, but his pantry of premium nuts, organic Wholegrain Milling flour and European butter.
Savoury pastry with 'nduja, eggplant and basil.Edwina PicklesThere are no shortcuts, even the tomato sauce is house-made and has extra depth, tang and kick from the fermented habanero in the recipe.
Bite into The Crown On 487, a croissant-dough bracelet vividly adorned with raspberry glaze, rose petals and pistachio crumbs, and you might not realise the chefs can only make 30 of these a day – limited by the one special mould they own and the fact they can't find more anywhere, despite searching abroad.
Knowing the full story might make you appreciate it, but without it, Lode Pies still feels deeply special and worth any queue.
Blueberry tarts topped with a generous amount of berries.Edwina PicklesThe low-downLode Pies
Main attraction Well-crafted pastries by Good Food Guide's 2017 Chef of the Year Federico Zanellato and his team. From specials (such as an excellent eggplant, harissa, Pecorino and basil croissant) to signature items (the Jin-ius remix of a pain au chocolat, with caramelised white chocolate, raisins and almond marzipan), everything is done to an impressive standard.
Must-try dish The LuMi pie is the star, but you should also meet Mr Peanut, a croissant swirl richly flavoured with peanut butter frangipane, caramelised banana, chocolate and toasted brown butter.
Instaworthy dish Mr Peanut or the Crown On 487, which looks like a giant piece of jewellery fashioned from croissant dough.
Drinks From $4 for The Little Marionette espresso to $10 for Chamomile, Lime Lychee Easy Tea.
Former Potts Point landmark Bayswater Brasserie to become Greek restaurant ErosLots of white paint, an olive tree and sculptured walls will help bring a touch of Mykonos to Bayswater Road.
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The team behind Pyrmont Italian-Japanese restaurant Lumi Dining has opened Lode Pies and Pastries
creative twists and extreme attention to detail are enlisted to put a fine-dining spin on baked goods
Since opening on Crown Street on November 3
the bakery has been inundated and frequently sells out of products
“People were queueing every morning,” Federico Zanellato tells Broadsheet. He co-owns Lode with Lorenzo Librino, a former chef at Lumi, which Zanellato co-owns. Zanellato is also co-owner and chef at Restaurant Leo in the CBD
word had spread about one of Lode’s star dishes: the Crown … on 487
It’s a doughnut-shaped croissant filled with white chocolate crème
And it’s so labour-intensive Lode makes only 15 each day
once featured on the restaurant’s degustation menu
but a pithivier: an incredibly difficult-to-make French version of a pie
but is filled with roasted white chocolate
Laminated pastry is painstakingly built by placing one fine layer of dough upon a fine layer of butter – over and over again
Lode searched the world before finding the ideal butter in Belgium
Zanellato explains the perfect butter for laminating must be flexible
This insistence on perfection extends to every ingredient
The team works with a handful of boutique producers to source fresh fruit
the drinks menu features handcrafted brews by Easy Tea
and barista-made coffee using Little Marionette beans
which displays one of each item on the menu
to reflect our approach to the pastries,” says Zanellato
There’s seating – inside and out – for around 15 people
you’ll find plenty of green spaces nearby for picnicking
including Shannon Reserve (on Crown Street
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