the Saint-Jean-de-Luz air show offers one of the very last aviation attractions of the season
the traditional Saint-Jean-de-Luz air show will be held on October 13
from 2 pm to 6 pm – and spectators will be able to see the show from the town’s famous bay
there will be plenty of activities set up along the famous Promenade Jacques Thibaud
including the French Air and Space Force’s exhibition vehicle
recruitment stands for the various French armed forces (the Air and Space Force for future Rafale pilots
the most prestigious ambassadors of the French Air Force will be on the scene
with demonstrations by paratroopers from Bayonne’s 1st Marine Infantry Parachute Regiment (RPIMa) and the French Air and Space Force’s aerobatics team
There will also be a simulated sea rescue featuring a helicopter from the Air Gendarmerie and the local French Sea Rescue Organization (SNSM) teams
Not to mention demonstrations of the Eurocopter EC120 Colibri
and the famous Alpha Jets of the Patrouille de France
The perfect way to end the season on a high note
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From surfing the restaurant scene of Biarritz to indulging in the untamed flavors of Haute-Soule
the Basque Country's restaurants are a treat for the taste buds
Here's where to go for a foodie journey inspired by the all-new MICHELIN Guide 2025 selection
with a newly awarded Two-Star restaurant
and an exceptional terroir.Hero Image: © Lore Ttipia
In a region where diners are already spoiled for choice with lots of Basque Country restaurants worth adding to checklists
young restaurateurs are embracing the Basque Country's increasingly glamorous
It's hard to resist the combination of stunning nature (both the coast and the mainland)
and the influence of the Spanish dining culture of sharing plates
The MICHELIN Guide France 2025 has bolstered its selection with a substantial number of new restaurants in the Basque Country
over the course of an itinerary where travel meets finger-licking food
where Chef Guillaume Roget's exceptional sauces and jus are particularly noteworthy
where the pairing of Brice Goeuriot and Margaux Le Baillif gets creative in the kitchen
giving pride of place to plants and aromatic herbs
in addition to the lovely view from the terrace
serves delicious food jazzed up by creative flourishes
Chef Xavier Isabal prepares tasty (and hearty!) Basque cuisine
which is served up in a relaxed atmosphere
which was awarded One Star in this year's 2025 MICHELIN Guide selection
One of the emblematic peaks of the Basque Country, Mt Baigoura can be reached by a small train, which transports you and your mountain bike or paraglider; alternatively, follow the wonderful hiking trail. From the summit, you can enjoy an exceptional 360° panoramic view over Lower Navarre, the Basque Coast and the Pyrenees
On the way back down to the plain, it is well worth stopping off at Irouléguy to taste the wines of the only vineyard in the French Basque Country. Your best bet for lunch is Jarapea (Bib Gourmand 2025)
where Chef Michel Moutroustéguy and his Chilean partner concoct market-fresh cuisine featuring seasonal local ingredients
The post-prandial stroll takes in vineyards on one side
and grazing Manech Tête Noire ewes on the other
Their milk is used to make Ossau-Iraty cheese
now run by the fourth generation of the same family
where you can recharge your batteries with comforting food
From listening bars to neighbourhood restaurants
explore all the top recommendations from Chishuru’s Adejoké Bakare
One of the most prominent chefs serving Indian cuisine talks India and his New York
Update your must-visit list with The MICHELIN Guide’s new London restaurants
the best hotel rooftops are a go-to when you touch down
What the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors Saw in 2025
The Mexican capital takes center stage alongside the culinary world's top talents
From Texas Barbecue to Mexico City's cutting-edge dining
these new MICHELIN Guide hot spots promise unforgettable vacations and world-class cuisine
These are the best lake vacations for a summer break
from Lake Tahoe in the US to Lake Como in Switzerland
and the MICHELIN-recommended restaurants and bolt holes to bed down in when you visit
where do fashion’s biggest names retreat for a bite and a bed
We imagine the post-Gala sanctuaries of the chicest attendees
these iconic chefs mentor professional chefs who have an ego
Who knew brisket and biscuits could be so good
From tartan fabrics and stag antler furnishings to rare Scotch whiskies and castle views
you'll have no doubt which country you're in when staying at these Michelin-Key hotels
she has championed America’s farm-to-table movement for 54 years
The self-proclaimed “unofficial talent scout” shares his local favorites from the city he calls home
Sustainability is more than a buzzword—it’s a core value embraced by some of North America’s most design-forward hotels
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Save lists of your favorite restaurants & hotels
and an exceptional terroir.Hero Image: \u00a9 Lore Ttipia
In a region where diners are already spoiled for choice with lots of Basque Country restaurants worth adding to checklists
One of the emblematic peaks of the Basque Country, Mt Baigoura can be reached by a small train, which transports you and your mountain bike or paraglider; alternatively, follow the wonderful hiking trail. From the summit, you can enjoy an exceptional 360\u00b0 panoramic view over Lower Navarre, the Basque Coast and the Pyrenees
On the way back down to the plain, it is well worth stopping off at Iroul\u00e9guy to taste the wines of the only vineyard in the French Basque Country. Your best bet for lunch is Jarapea (Bib Gourmand 2025)
where Chef Michel Moutroust\u00e9guy and his Chilean partner concoct market-fresh cuisine featuring seasonal local ingredients
and grazing Manech T\u00eate Noire ewes on the other
which has six book presentations of 20 minutes
realized in the event of 2022 that it was not enough: “That’s why we made the presentation of the writer Joanes Etxeberri from Ciboure outside the day of the fair
That’s why I wanted people like that too.”
In 2023 they continued testing and organized two more events: Presentation of the book Ahairera de Palabras by Rafa Rueda and Obispo Barandiarán
And this led them to organize the Fair in 2024: "The fair moved its boundaries in terms of scope and time
we're in Baltsan for kisses and it would've been too heavy for us
We are Basque speakers on the Lapurdi coast
so we have to create moments where we can unite Basques
strengthen the community and enjoy the Basque language.” For this reason
they planned to open the fair to the surrounding villages and in last year’s edition they held four events in Urrugne
“They come from those towns that we have before to the Ciboure Fair and we also had to return something to them
thus confirming that people are interested
since about 30 to 40 citizens have gathered at the events.” These events are organized by the Basque Life Committee of Urruñan Ikastola
with the readers of Azkain and the AEK of Saint-Jean-de-Luz: “We share the same concerns.”
“This year the Basque Country has advanced to May
and as a result we saw that it could be confusing with the Fair
That’s where the name change comes from.” And there are other changes
if last year the fair of Ciboure was extended to the neighboring towns
this year it has been extended to the neighboring country
and an event has been organized in Navarre’s Baja Orcaz: The writer Uxue Alberdi presents the book Hetero in the bookstore Menta
Arrosagarai specifies that the fair of Ciboure
“We are organized by Baltsán and LUZ and publishers and people come from all over the Basque Country
Irún and/or Hondarribia: we will not break the border with it
which is important in order to eradicate the border that separates us in the heads of the Guineas”
he says that two media outlets have been placed around an event
so Basque Radio and LARA have organized a round table with Amagoia Gurrutxaga and Ximun Fuch
“We would also like to keep these to work on the reflections and meaningful discussions that can take place in the environment of the Basque language and/or culture
It is Basque that makes us a people and culture that makes us a living people
(More about the fair:Fair time: six cultural activities at the gates of the 6th Fair of Ciboure)
Where can you visit with your family in France during summer
My route on ViaMichelin
Is finding the perfect destination for your summer family holiday proving a real challenge
Luberon and Morvan offer a wide range of activities to suit all tastes
from unspoilt nature to outdoor adventures and cultural discoveries
the little wild horses that inhabit the Basque Country
The Thursday of the festival is children’s day and there is a real party atmosphere and lots of fun and entertainment for kids
Not forgetting the picturesque trails in the lush Lozère forests
Are you ready for an adventure in the Luberon Regional Nature Park
This natural gem offers a host of activities for nature lovers
there’s a donkey ride and a treetop adventure course
Are you looking for a place for your family holiday in August
Venture into a world of natural wonders in the Morvan
an experienced hiker or a water sports enthusiast
the Morvan offers you an unlimited playground
The white waters of the Yonne and Cure rivers are a paradise for thrill-seekers
with wild rafting and exhilarating canoeing
The skies of the Morvan are also the realm of paragliders seeking out new views of the region’s landscapes
an architectural gem nestling in the heart of the Morvan countryside
And for a truly unique experience, head to the Domaine Fantastique de la Pierre Ronde in Saint Martin de la Mer
You can spend the night in very unusual accommodation here: a Hobbit house
See our suggestions for novel trips and must-see places to visit near your home or holiday destination
tips… Our online magazine is ideal for those who know that the journey is just as important as the destination
The country is large enough to still produce surprises – Roman remains you didn’t know about
Basque coastBetween the glamour of Biarritz and the tuna boats and half-timbered houses of Saint-Jean-de-Luz lies a surprisingly peaceful stretch of the French Basque coast
with relatively few tourists even in high summer
“It’s the crashing waves of the Atlantic that save us from the invasions,” says Amaia Urruty
who has been coming to Guéthary since she was a teenager
the huge court for games of Basque pelota in front of the village hall that is also a venue for markets
the port is remarkable today for the way its fishing boats are hauled on to dry land every day rather than left in the water
The buildings are beautifully kept and typically Basque – white facades with long
“It’s great for families and people who love the Basque style.”
Plage des Alcyons is the best for families: rock pools become aquariums of sea urchins
prawns and tiny musselsThe beaches are fantastic – long and sandy – and there are plenty of places to enjoy traditional pipérade aux oeufs (omelette with tomatoes
peppers and ham from nearby Bayonne) or a panaché de fruits de mer (seafood platter) overlooking the fishing boats in the tiny port
see the Spanish Basque coast,” says Urruty
Plage de l’Uhabia is wider and good for swimming
while Plage de Parlementia is the big one for surfers and the only beach with lifeguards all summer long
Plage des Alcyons is the best one for families: at low tide
the rock pools become mini aquariums of sea urchins
To the south-west is Espelette, known for its red chillies seen drying on house fronts and balconies during the summer, while in neighbouring Cambo-les-Bains, Villa d’Arnaga
the Basque-style museum-house of Edmond Rostand
the honeypot village of Ainhoa is a 20-minute e-bike ride away
but on summer Mondays the village hall organises a night-time hike – La Nocturne d’Ainhoa – to its hilltop chapel
Stay Guéthary’s old village school has been converted into the three-star Hotel Balea (doubles from €79)
with 28 rooms and breakfast served in the interior gardenJon Bryant
Read moreThink of the ancient Romans’ legacy in France and the spectacular Pont du Gard aqueduct will probably spring to mind
or perhaps the Maison Carrée temple in Nîmes or the spectacular amphitheatre at Arles
with a population today much the same as it was two millennia ago – a mere 30,000 – will barely get a look in
The ancient ruins are woven into the fabric of this town on the banks of the Rhône
once capital of the Gallic Allobroges tribe until it was turned into a Roman colony under Julius Caesar in 47BC
The ancient ruins are woven into the fabric of this town on the banks of the RhôneDogs play around the arches of the Jardin de Cybèle
overlooking the Temple of Augustus and Livia
Thomas Jefferson visited Vienne in 1787 and the temple is said to be the inspiration behind his design for the White House of the Confederacy in Richmond
cylindrical towers sprouting like fat straws in the streets around the temple reveal the presence of traboules
covered passages similar to those found in Lyon
View image in fullscreenChâteau de la Bâtie. Photograph: Keitma/AlamyThe centuries slowly obscured much of the Roman heritage until vast mosaics were unearthed at Saint-Romain-en-Gal in 1891. Sections of the mosaic are on display at the Musée de Saint-Romain-en-Gal
including a newly renovated area depicting the agricultural seasons
every stripe visible on Dionysus’s tiger in one square
every grape being trodden by harvest workers in the next
the theatre is free to visit on the first Sunday of each month
View image in fullscreenAncient Roman mosaics in the Musée de Saint-Romain-en-Gal. Photograph: Keitma/AlamyBoutellier fused jazz and Vienne’s Roman history even further earlier this year when he opened a jazz club within the Musée de Saint-Romain-en-Gal
Concerts are held every other Sunday evening
The vines that run down the hillside are the Romans’ living legacy in Vienne, and Vitis Vienna is a collective of revived Roman vineyards (call any of the wineries directly to visit). I enjoy my own Crozes-Hermitage in modern surroundings, at the newly opened wine bar Ô BievVin
Stay La Péniche Bed & Bicycle (doubles from €149) is one of three self-catering barges on the Rhône overlooking Vienne and its vineyards
View image in fullscreenThe harbour and railway at Méjean
Photograph: Hemis/Alamy“I’ve never been as happy as when I was in La Redonne,” wrote Blaise Cendrars in 1927
The words of the Marseille-based writer ring true as I hike red rocks between green pines and the azure sea
I’ve come to the Côte Bleue to escape the city and explore the tiny villages of this enchanting coastline
The Côte Bleue unfurls along the Mediterranean north-west of Marseille
it is on a more intimate scale than the vast 5,000-hectare Calanques national park to the south of city
the Côte Bleue also has a chain of calanques (rocky inlets)
and villages that give a glimpse of simple southern living
They can now be toured on foot thanks to 18th-century smugglers and 20th-century railway engineers
The Sentier des Douaniers (customs officers’ trail) was built during the French Revolution for officials (douaniers) to patrol the coastal path checking for smugglers out at sea
Hikers using it today encounter a kaleidoscope of nature – verdant flora
and ochre and white rocks – and an epic panorama
the jagged trail offers a good cardio workout
View image in fullscreenThe harbour of Martigues. Photograph: clodio/Getty ImagesThe Train de la Côte Bleue is a more leisurely option
it allows commuters and tourists to soak up breathtaking vistas while traversing 18 stone viaducts
It’s easy to hop on and off at the old tiled stations
I prefer to do this coast on a mix of trails and train
I board an 8am train at Marseille’s Saint-Charles station
Seats on the left side give the best view as we whiz past container ships and the red-tiled roofs that Cézanne painted in the L’Estaque neighbourhood
the urban sprawl dissolves into the Mediterranean’s endless blue
I hop off at the tiny port of Niolon to hike to Ensuès-La Redonne, a 4½-mile walk that takes 2½ hours (compared with the train’s six minutes). At Niolon station, the Train Inc Café sells picnic grub with a side of social impact. Beside the port, the vine-canopied terrace of seafood restaurant La Pergola is ideal for a lingering meal
I have arrived in time for the Sunday market
where local foodstuffs are sold beside inexpensive clothes and bric-a-bracWith the train tracks on my left
weaving between fragrant pines and bursts of poppies
A stone viaduct soars above the Calanque du Jonquier
I take a refreshing dip at the bigger Calanque de l’Erevine
The limestone cliffs give way to rocks in 50 shades of ochre as I descend into Méjean via a natural staircase
passing people playing a game of Provençal pétanque
Lined with old cabanons (fishers’ cottages)
the tiny harbour is dwarfed by a towering viaduct
the casual Mange Tout restaurant fries up thousands of whitebait daily to the delight of locals and tourists
The rest of the route to Ensuès-la-Redonne is a paved road
which is less picturesque but easier on the feet
it is a quick ride to the popular seaside town of Sausset-les-Pins
it now has a lovely harbour filled with pleasure boats
where local foodstuffs are sold beside inexpensive clothes and bric-a-brac
I pick up a Provençal olive-studded fougasse bread and head along the coastal boardwalk for a nap at Plage du Petit Nid
View image in fullscreenCalanque de l’Erevine
Photograph: AlamyThe last stop on the Côte Bleue is Martigues
which has earned the nickname of the “Venice of Provence” for its picturesque canals
They are at their photogenic peak in the Quartier de l’Ile
where pastel houses and traditional coloured wooden boats are reflected in the mirror-like water
I check out the baroque Saint Marie-Madeleine church
stopping off to taste poutargue – cured mullet roe
similar to Italian bottarga – whose briny punch smacks of the south
It’s on sale at the Domaines des Terroirs market or direct from the sea at Lou Calens
the last producer to use calens (traditional fishing nets)
On the cinematic journey back to Marseille I am reminded of a quote I saw painted on rocks on the coastal trail
Trains run every hour from Marseille-Saint-Charles until around 8pm
View image in fullscreenThe Pontusval lighthouse near Brignogan-Plages
Photograph: Makasana Photo/AlamyThere are many Francophiles to be found on the south coast of Brittany
where the golden sand beaches at Carnac and Bénodet are popular for family camping and beach holidays
The region’s south coast is easy to reach after arriving at Saint-Malo or Roscoff by ferry and driving across the peninsula
To reach a more peaceful corner of Brittany
it’s wiser to head west from the ferry instead
the sweeping blond beaches of the Côte des Sables (the sandy coast) are much less frequented than their southern counterparts
when my curiosity for parts unknown saw us travel along the coast towards Le Conquet
We stayed a few nights at Hotel de la Mer in Brignogan-Plages
a resort on a gently looped coastline with many beaches to choose from
The hotel is by the water at Plage des Chardons Bleus
whose white sand is punctuated at low tide by silver-grey boulders
sheltered Plage du Garo is overlooked by stately umbrella pines and the water that fills the bay at high tide is turquoise
Plage du Phare sweeps around towards the whitewashed Pontusval lighthouse
View image in fullscreenThe market hall at Plouescat
Photograph: Shotshop GmbH/AlamyHeading back east along the coast
we came to Plage des Amiets at Cléder – a wide
sweeping curve of golden sand backed by moorland and a windswept campsite
we shared the beach with just a few families; some were paddleboarding on the incoming tide while others played tennis or just lounged around
I stood in the shallows watching my two children paddle
wetsuit-clad foragers gathered edible seaweed from the rocks
and I was transfixed by the ribbons and frills that fluttered around my feet in the water like an octopus’s garden
With a slightly bleary head from a sensational meal the night before
I strolled on to the beachWe’d taken a picnic
but it made a perfect lunch as we basked in the sun
we parked in the village square in Plouescat
bought ice-creams from the shop and marvelled at the huge 16th-century market hall
sorry that we’d missed that morning’s market
It had caught my eye from the window of La Butte
an eco-friendly hotel high on the hill at Plouider
where chef Nicolas Conraux’s cuisine draws on the area’s abundance of top-quality produce
I strolled on to the beach as the green-hued sea lapped gently to the shore
A murmuration of small seabirds twirled against a sky streaked with wisps of cloud
When there are quiet corners like this to be found
Stay Hotel de la Mer has doubles from €150 room-only; La Butte has doubles from €135 room-onlyCarolyn Boyd
chef Iñaki Aizpitarte’s Le Chateaubriand has been one of the most influential restaurants in Paris
Those who have followed the Paris restaurant scene at any point since the early 2000s have probably been to, or at least heard of, Le Chateaubriand, in the hip 11th Arrondissement, and its neighboring wine bar, Le Dauphin.
There, the iconoclastic chef Iñaki Aizpitarte has challenged and delighted diners, critics, and international-awards judges with his singular, stripped-down cuisine. It’s hard to find an article on him that doesn’t nod to his contribution to the bistronomy movement—bistro fare combined with gastronomic techniques—or use the term “rock star” to describe his status and preternatural cool.
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It pleases me to report that according to the results of my unofficial but extensive canvassing
Australians are southern Europeans’ favourite anglophone tourists
Americans are the largest and spendiest contingent
I’m allowed to say this – not the most palatable
an entente too often freighted with Brexit animus
I’ve heard variations on all these sentiments expressed admiringly many times
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ShareSaveLifestyleTravelGreat European Weekend Breaks: Saint-Jean-De-Luz, FranceByJoanne Shurvell
La Réserve is perched above Saint-Jean-de-Luz overlooking the Atlantic and from the moment we arrived
La Réserve has a quieter vibe from Hotel Byblos but the level of service is equally good and we felt immediately at home
with attractive soft furnishings and linens
Steel sculpture by Bernar Venet on the grounds at La Réserve
There had been a swimming pool on the grounds as well but it was being replaced when we were there by an infinity pool overlooking the cliffside
We stayed in the main hotel building but there's also the option of staying in the apartment residence beside the hotel
The residence has 44 studios and apartments
each with terraces or balconies facing the ocean
these apartments would be ideal as they have well equipped modern kitchens
Our stay included dinner at the hotel's restaurant, the Ilura which offers an impressive menu that blends French and Spanish Basque cuisine
If it had been a warmer evening we would have chosen to sit outside on the lovely terrace
The Basque country is known for its outstanding cuisine with over 40 Michelin starred restaurants across the region
We certainly weren't disappointed by Chef Fabrice Idiart's menu that makes superb use of local seasonal products
I was happy with my main of sea bass with tiny pieces of pasta and saffron foam while Paul enjoyed his filet of beef
For dessert I was tempted by the churros but was intrigued by the use of truffles in the praline dessert
View of Saint-Jean-de-Luz from the coastal path
La Réserve is steps from a lovely coastal path that runs for 25 kms from Bidart to Hendaye
Saint-Jean-de-Luz is the ideal starting point for a stroll along the coastal path
A leisurely 15 minute stroll along the coastal path took us directly to the beach and harbour of Saint-Jean-de-Luz
The sandy Grande Plage in the center of town is lovely while slightly further afield are four more beaches
We didn't have time but I'd love to return to try one of the two thalassotherapy centres overlooking the Grande Plage
The town itself with its wood-beamed basque houses, cobbled streets and shops is charming. The twice weekly market with local products is worth checking out, as is Tissage de Luz
a family run shop that's been selling Basque linen since 1908
Our brief visit whetted our appetite for a longer visit to this lovely region with its rugged coastline
La Réserve
Getting there: St-Jean-de-Luz is about 20 minutes from Biarritz airport, which is served by Easy Jet and Ryanair
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The French Basque Country is an idiosyncratic region of green mountains and long beaches
Rouleur joins modern nomadic influencer Virginia Cancellieri for an exploration of both
This article was produced in association with ASSOS
and they are as distinct from each other as red and white wine
Brittany would never be confused with French Provence
while the Alsace region is worlds apart from the French Midi
But down in the southwestern tip of the country
there is a region like no other: the Basque Country
Officially known as the French Basque Country or Northern Basque Country
the region remains closely linked to the neighbouring Basque region in Spain
It occupies a very rough rectangle of territory
with a southern border stretching along the Spanish border and the Pyrenees
and the western coast looking out to the Atlantic Ocean
from Bayonne through Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz to Hendaye
a strong Spanish accent resonates in this corner of France
Here the architecture is distinctly different
while tapas and tortillas can be found at most bars and restaurants
The region has historic ties to cycling as well. Legendary champion Louison Bobet, who won the Tour de France three times in a row between 1953 and 1955
settled in Biarritz after retiring from the sport
considered by many to be the Tour’s greatest sprinter before Mark Cavendish
and fifth on the all-time stage winners list with 22
But this region is also an internationally renowned surfing mecca
thwacking the Basque coastline with the full force of the Atlantic Ocean behind them
are considered some of the best in the world
And it was this multi-sport combination that first attracted Virginia Cancellieri to the Basque Country
Cancellieri is a modern day free spirit who thrives as an influencer for a handful of brands that share her passions
the historic cycling clothing brand that has expanded into gravel and bikepacking in recent years
Growing up on the Ligurian Coast in northern Italy, she watched Milan-Sanremo pass through her town every spring
and cycling became an obvious choice when she got into sports
surfing has become an integral addition to her lifestyle as well
she soon found herself travelling around Europe
in search of great places to both ride and surf
“I started racing bikes when I was a kid and I wanted to try everything
while enjoying a glass of rosé in Guéthary
a small coastal town just south of Biarritz that has become one of her favourite destinations
“After high school I moved to London and joined the Velo Club Londres
But then I got into the fixed-gear scene and started travelling a lot
I understood that bikes can allow you to discover new cultures and new languages
Getting into bikepacking and gravel was just an extension of that
Then about the same time I discovered van life
As a kid we travelled a lot with a camping car on vacations
I would go to sleep while we were driving and wake up the next day in a totally different destination
I would often wake up in the morning and say
where are we?’ I thought that was so cool.”
Since embracing her life as a 21st-century nomad
Cancellieri spends upwards of 10 months of the year on the road
“Most of the time I travel alone,” she says
It’s really a huge community and through my travels I can connect with a lot of them.”
Surfing may well have been the first thing that attracted Cancellieri to the French Basque Country
but the hills that rise up behind the coast
“I really love places where I can cycle and surf
I also love the mountains and how everything is so green
I discovered the Basque Country in Spain first
but I really love the French Basque Country
To introduce us to the French Basque Country
Cancellieri came up with a 60-kilometre loop which shows off the geographic diversity in this part of France
“Today’s ride embodies everything I love about this region,” she says
It’s amazing what you can pack into 60 kilometres
Cancellieri heats up the Bialetti espresso machine on her two-burner camping stove as she gets dressed for the ride
“I love the way that van life forces you to focus on the simple things
sometimes I don’t go outside for a couple of hours
skirting quickly around Saint-Jean-de-Luz and into the hills that climb out from the seaside
But if the French Basque Country is renowned for its lush greenery
Considering the overcast sky and the cool morning temperatures
Cancellieri opts to start with her Dyora RS rain jacket in its distinctive and highly visible Venus Violet colour
doors and wooden beams boast contrasting colours of dark reds
used for a sport similar to squash but where players use their bare hands
while Gâteau Basque cakes are being sold across from the post office
that we are in a completely different world
“I love riding through these Basque villages,” says Cancellieri
It’s like nothing else I know.” Descending out of town
Cancellieri picks up speed as she pedals through a tunnel of trees on the edge of town
Soon enough the road winds its way upwards as we tackle the day’s major climb
a 900-metre rise that straddles the Spanish and French border
The Spanish side is covered with a dense green forest that grows darker by the metre as the clouds coalesce and the first raindrops quickly turn into a downpour
I find it refreshing,” she says with her trademark positive twist
Meanwhile her Dyora RS rain jacket is getting a proper workout
And as we reach the summit and cross back into France
the sun is clearly visible in the valley below
where some of the most spectacular views of the Basque coastline unfold
when I come back and hit the coast again it is like coming home,” says Cancellieri
while stopping at the end of the Corniche road to admire the views
There are jagged rock formations and cliffs below
but simply to admire its distinctive muscular landscape
It has always been really essential to me,” she says
“I need to wake up in the morning and see it and smell it.” Rolling back through Saint-Jean- de-Luz
And after stopping for a coffee along the Parlementia Hondartza
the boardwalk along the beach at the foot of the town
she then returns to her van to change and relax after the ride
she enjoys the sea breeze while sketching on her couch
“I studied art at the University of Genova after I returned from London,” she says
while drawing some cows she remembers from a recent ride
one day when I am not travelling so much I would really love to do more art
and soon enough she is back outside with her skateboard
and I love the fact that you can bring a skateboard anywhere
plus it’s way faster than walking,” she says
“I only got into surfing a couple of years ago
but I watched all of the surfing movies growing up
It is a sport that takes a long time to learn
But the feeling you have being out there in the water with just a board is amazing
That is one thing that is different from cycling
because for surfing you don’t need a lot of equipment
It’s not like you have to check that your tyres are pumped up or if your computer is charged
while Cancellieri’s life is in constant movement
she has established a daily routine that grounds her
one that starts with a bike ride and finishes with surfing
Just when Cancellieri may not be travelling so much
is an entirely different subject that is clearly not a priority for this 26-year old at the moment
the UMA GT Jersey S11 and UMA GTV bib shorts C2 Evobib shorts with Bisiclick technology
Cancellieri opted for the ASSOS women’s Summer Skin Layer P1 as well as R Socks S9
not to mention her stylish Dyora RS Rain Jacket for those Basque Country moments when the skies opened up
“I’ve been with ASSOS for a year now and I love the quality,” says Cancellieri
I would much rather spend money on something that lasts and ASSOS makes things to last
which is so important when I am on a long gravel ride or bikepacking
I feel cool when I ride with ASSOS and that is really important because cycling is my life
There are days when the only time I get dressed to go out is for a ride
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From the lavender fields of Provence to the art nouveau buildings of Paris
the most beautiful places in France are as diverse as they are alluring
The country has its fair share of cosmopolitan cities and charming small towns
of course – some of which date as far back as the 9th century – but it also has white-sand beaches
Whether you’re drawn to the azure waters of the French Riviera, the dramatic cliffs of Normandy, or the enchanting châteaux of the Loire Valley
this list of the most beautiful places in France is sure to inspire your next storybook adventure
even though the water barely pushes the 75-degree mark at the height of summer
Just one more excuse to warm up with a traditional French Alpine meal come dinnertime
and frescoed ceilings depicting owls in the treetops
Throw in an exceptionally good ski-in ski-out location in the Trois-Vallées estate
and you have yourself one of the coolest accommodations in France
are not only gorgeous – they’re also hugely popular with surfers thanks to their mellow
a marshy delta between the Mediterranean and the two branches of the Rhône
Visitors can take Jeep tours deep into the wilderness
You’ll also see the Camargue’s trademark free-roaming white horses and some of its 400 bird species – if you’re lucky
The 150,000 bubbly boxwood trees and hedges wrap around a 17th-century chateau that overlooks the Dordogne Valley
The entire vista looks like an illustration from a Perrault fairytale
considered the world’s first elevated park
stock up on cheese and wine for a picnic in Luxembourg Gardens
and end the day watching the sunset behind the Eiffel Tower
This Belle Époque landmark really needs no introduction
but we never pass up an opportunity to swoon over its seaside location
and bedside vases overfilled with roses from the garden
Take a road trip through the region to get nonstop views of the countryside – with plenty of winery pit stops along the way
Its elevated location makes it one of the best places in Provence to watch the sunset
and it is also an excellent home base for seeking out lavender fields during the summer months
a series of cruises exploring France’s waterways – complete with heated pools and king-sized beds
so it’s a given that Mont Blanc and its subsidiary peaks needn’t bow to any mountains
Gothically-drawn skyline is the kind that inspires poets and painters
Take a motorboat tour to get some of the best views
but be sure you head back to the mainland in time for a perfect seafood lunch
but Château de Chenonceau easily rises to the top of the pack – both in terms of beauty and popularity
The current château was built on top of an old mill starting in 1514
while the trademark bridge and gallery were added about 60 years later
the river-spanning structure and surrounding gardens are one of the most-visited attractions in the entire country
Champagne-Ardenne is the birthplace of bubbly and one of the most beautiful regions in France
The area is covered with idyllic valleys and vineyards
Make sure to visit the capital city of Troyes for splendid churches from the Middle Ages
and Reims for underground wine cellars and the masterpiece Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Louis XIV’s 18th-century residence is one of the most impressive combined displays of art
a masterpiece of over-the-topness; the legendary Hall of Mirrors
still used by the French government today to receive heads of state; or the three square miles of perfectly manicured gardens
NormandyLocated along France’s Alabaster Coast
the pebble beach of Étretat is popular among sailors and surfers
But most visitors come to this stretch of coast in Upper Normandy for one reason: the famous chalk cliffs and arched rock formations
At various points along Étretat’s 80-mile stretch
you’ll find natural sculptures that have inspired travellers and artists (most notably Claude Monet) for ages
which comes from the reddish sandstone used to build it
Although the original plans called for a pair of spires on top of the church
complete with winding streets and tiny houses
but the crown jewel is undoubtedly the Abbey of Mont Saint-Michel
The incredible structure was built in 708AD and was the inspiration behind the castle in Disney's Tangled
it certainly doesn’t fall short in terms of beauty
The 2,300-foot-deep valley was formed by the Alpine Verdon River
a dazzling turquoise stream that flows into the artificial Lac de Sainte-Croix
Hiking and horseback riding trails weave throughout the vertical limestone cliffs
connecting tiny villages and offering once-in-a-lifetime views
and quality Italian cuisine due to its position on the Franco-Italian border
both of which are open to the public today
The pastel pink house is as pretty as a picture
with spring green shutters and ivy crawling up every surface
The gardens are like an impressionist painting come to life
the Auvergne Volcanoes Regional Park consists of a cluster of around 80 dormant volcanoes
for an easy (but still breathtaking) 2.5-mile ridge hike
set in an elegantly restored 17th-century convent
If you don’t fancy learning about Sylvaner
the dreamy countryside will conquer the heart of even the most jaded teetotaller
a hamlet near Colmar with cobblestone lanes and gingerbread houses
where storks nest on rooftops and flowers hang over every carved window frame
Best bet: the family-run Maison Emile Beyer excels in luscious rare grands crus
a pink and white Belle Epoque confection overlooking the Atlantic
a gem facing the glinting gold Cap Canaille
a potato pancake cooked in duck fat and topped with fresh Cantal
a buzzing old-world-style brasserie flush with the Opera House
helmed by celebrity chef Philippe Etchebest
serving tasty regional specialities from black truffles to duck and mashed potato pie
a contemporary art museum on a wine estate lost in the pines
ProvenceWhether you’re wandering on the banks of the Rhone or through the medieval historic centre past the colossal Roman arena
there’s a certain village-like douceur de vivre about Arles that makes it unique
Ancient history and lots of nods to Van Gogh’s time painting here intermingle with a recent upsurge of contemporary artistic effervescence
starting with the ambitious Luma arts complex
featuring the city’s future cultural hub – the Gehry-designed steel-panelled tower shimmering against a blue sky
Just beyond are the wetlands and pink salt flats of the Camargue
a bird-filled sanctuary where wild white horses also roam
the town’s uber-stylish 70-room hamlet of Alpine farmhouses
and get slathered with edelweiss-derived beauty products at its Pure Altitude Spa
where chef Mauro Colagreco dishes up pure poetry on a plate
Some of the content in this article was first published on Condé Nast Traveler.
Skip the lines in Paris and visit these picturesque towns and villages
where the crowds are fewer and the pace is slower
Evie Carrick is a writer and editor who’s lived in five countries and visited well over 50
She now splits her time between Colorado and Paris
ensuring she doesn't have to live without skiing or L'As du Fallafel
and fact-checker specializing in travel and anything related to it
and was previously editor-in-chief of Michelin Guide US
20 minutes drive from the Spanish border and at the mouth of the Nivelle River
lies the coastal town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz
It was once the home of King Louis XIV of France
who briefly relocated here from Versailles
it’s a pedestrian and cycle-friendly destination
an active fishing harbour and cobbled streets
it has strong Spanish as well as French influences (particularly in the culinary department)
It serves as a popular weekend getaway for those from both nations
Visitors here will find the light to be quite stunning – hence the city’s name
And there are relatively few British holidaymakers
The 20 rooms at the Hôtel Parc Victoria have been decorated uniquely and thoughtfully with an Art Deco leaning
with suites – some boasting verandas and private gardens – also located in the lush park of its grounds
plus a large pool in an almost tropical setting
Chef Guillaume Applaincourt is at the helm in Les Lierres restaurant
showcasing ingredients indigenous to the region
like Val d’Aran caviar and Lalbenque truffles
langoustines and fish among the menu’s many highlights
seven-storey hotel was built in 1909 in the Belle Epoque style and lies in the city’s old quarter
suites with accents of colour come with blackout curtains
The Thalasso Spa opens directly onto the beachfront
a relaxation area and yoga classes among its amenities
Also looking onto the ocean is the Grand Hôtel’s restaurant
pets are welcome and there’s an outdoor pool
* All the properties and products we feature are independently selected by our editors and contributors
If you buy something we may earn a commission
Eater’s annual guide to the most exciting food destinations
featuring hidden gems and well-known locales that live up to the hype
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Let’s trade our familiar concerns for unfamiliar flavors and experiences
These are the basic desires that compel travelers to restaurants around the world and bring together people for meals across cultures
2025 is set to be one for the record books — and the guest books — in crowded hot spots
and businesses around the world are eager for visitors
including many places where chefs are attracting attention by putting their food cultures front and center
We tapped our team of culinary experts to find out about some of these overlooked destinations
They lay out arguments for the places they’re sending friends and hungry travelers in 2025: why you should skip the clogged Greek island ports for the olive groves and tavernas of Messenia on the mainland
eschew the packed Mexican coast for the contemporary Yucateco cuisine and roadside kibis of Mérida
and take a break from the bustling French capital for laid-back Basque specialties in St-Jean-de-Luz
and street vendors ready to make their own cases for escapism in full plates and brimming glasses
a seven-year project to promote tourism and culture that comes to fruition this year
the country has invested in infrastructure
a cultural landmark that mixes art and modern African design
transforms local coffee beans from export commodity into cultural statement
These meals are more than sustenance — they’re testaments to a country redefining its place
where chef Panagiotis Kikentzis prepares kremidolmades (sweet onions stuffed with meat and rice) and kolokithokorfades (stewed tomatoes
and dill) that’ll make you nostalgic for an idyllic Greek childhood in the country — even if you never had one
There’s nothing like relaxing with a good meal after a long day on the slopes. Yet, many of the world’s iconic mountain towns are plagued by subpar tourist traps. That’s not the case when it comes to Whistler, a destination as beloved for its food as it is for its fresh Canadian powder
the town punches well above its weight thanks to a steady stream of culinary talent from nearby Vancouver
a wealth of great sushi restaurants established during a boom in the ’80s
and a blend of tried-and-true classics and acclaimed contemporary fine dining
Travelers once sought out Mérida as a sleepy alternative to Yucatán’s buzzy beaches, but the peninsula’s inland capital has come into its own. The new Cancún-Mérida leg of the regional Tren Maya train line will clue in even more visitors to this bastion of regional cuisine, where patrons line up at market stalls like Taquería La Lupita for relleno negro and cochinita pibil tacos
a speakeasy where clinking cocktail glasses mix with strains of jazz
Berlin is a late culinary bloomer among European capitals
The city is known for its proudly poor-but-sexy mentality
which has fostered a world-famous club scene but not much of a culinary one
and Michelin stars have kickstarted the food scene
once self-consciously hip and distrustful of sophistication
are leaning into the locales and foods that make the city what it is
tucked away in a disused depot of busy Friedrichstrasse Station
All of these spots bring guests up close to Berlin’s old-school cool
Luang Prabang (sometimes spelled Louangphrabang)
where rivers and dense jungles have shaped foodways
locals sail the Mekong transporting foraged herbs
and prepare khao niew (sticky rice) every morning for saffron-robed monks who meditatively stroll the streets
and ferment local flavors into compelling meals
Uninhabited until the 15th century, Cape Verde — also known as Cabo Verde — feels like nowhere else. The archipelago’s desert landscapes yield abundant ingredients, shaping a soulful Creole cuisine that’s influenced by West African, Portuguese, and Brazilian cuisines, yet remains entirely its own. While the country’s Macaronesian cousins (Portugal’s Azores and Madeira
Spain’s Canary Islands) have long drawn food-focused tourists
this volcanic chain of islands farther south offers a unique flavor — or rather
One of the country’s top culinary schools, Johnson & Wales, supplies talented up-and-comers, while longtime hospitality leaders promote new generations of businesses. After experimental pop-up Thick Neck at the well-established Dean Hotel, in 2024 chef Eric Brown launched sunny corner cafe Frank & Laurie’s with partner Sarah Watts
serving generous slices of custardy quiche and charred pancakes dripping with maple syrup
you’ll find it tough to cover all the city’s great meals
and successful chefs with Chiclayo roots like Valerie and Nando Chang in Miami and Rodrigo Fernandini in New York
Tucked into France’s southwestern corner, the oft-overlooked French Basque Country is just as alluring as its Spanish sibling over the border. Nowhere is this clearer than St-Jean-de-Luz, a blend of picturesque fishing village, laid-back surf town, and retro-chic holiday spot, and the best of both Basques. Prized Espelette peppers hang in dark red garlands across shopfronts. Wine bars treat guests to boards of local Kintoa ham
and pepper-flecked patés alongside glasses of Bordeaux
And the town even has an answer to San Sebastián’s famed cheesecake: the gateau basque
which tucks irresistible crème pâtissière or black cherry jam into a crumbly
Of course, you can always just enjoy the bounty of the Atlantic — like line-caught hake, grilled sardines, and fresh oysters — at classic regional bistros like Pil Pil Enea and slick modern restaurants like Kaïku
and a distinct Basque pride in eating very
Trinidad is well-known for its iconic doubles and roti
While these dishes constitute beloved home cooking for many locals
they’re not the foods driving the island’s restaurant scene today
Chefs are busy unpacking Trinidad’s historic culinary influences
as well as cuisines introduced more recently to the region
which has quickly become one of the island’s most popular spots
Trinidad and Tobago declared a 15-day state of emergency in response to reprisals between organized crime groups
The measure is designed to support law enforcement in addressing these targeted incidents
Acting Attorney General Stuart Young has assured residents that public activities remain unaffected
Visitors can continue to enjoy the island’s vibrant food culture and warm hospitality
which are integral to both its economy and community
With new international hotels — like the Mercure Ambassador
set to open in historic Mokpo this year — the region is looking forward to hosting more visitors
Panama City connects the Western Hemisphere
linking North and South America and the Caribbean to the Pacific
a generation of internationally trained chefs are engaging with the country’s historic role as a crossroads
spotlighting flavors and ingredients of people — including enslaved Africans and Chinese immigrants — who not only passed through Panama but made it what it is today
Chef Isaac Villaverde at La Tapa del Coco, a pioneer in Afro Panamanian cuisine, features one-pot colonense, a hearty combination of coconut, rice, pork ribs, beans, and shrimp that’s cherished along the Caribbean coast. At Maito
chef Mario Castrellón describes his cuisine as “Chombasia,” his own term that represents the unique fusion created by Panama’s Cantonese
and Creole communities; for his pesca Chombasia
he applies a mixture of Afro Caribbean ingredients and smoky wok hei to the daily catch
and cafes find inspiration in the country’s Creole cuisines
As new hotels pop up among the city’s colonial-era buildings
one of Central America’s most popular tourism destinations is getting even better
Dispatches from the Eater staff about the world’s culinary destinations worth planning an entire trip around
Tuesday
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With the teenage assailant set to be indicted for what is described as a 'sudden and totally incomprehensible' act
emotions are running high in the town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz
By Eléa Pommiers
Flowers brought by children and their parents in tribute to the teacher killed are placed at the entrance of Saint Thomas d'Aquin high school in Saint-Jean-de-Luz (Pyrénées-Atlantiques) on February 23
HERVÉ LEQUEUX / HANS LUCAS FOR "LE MONDE" In the pouring rain
converged on the entrance to Saint-Thomas-d'Aquin high school in Saint-Jean-de-Luz (Pyrénées-Atlantiques
others carried single white roses to add to the growing piles along the gates
but also by the police and a swarm of journalists
they were back in their classrooms the day after a tragedy that has left the whole town in shock
a 16-year-old student from this private high school stood up in the middle of Spanish class
locked the classroom door and stabbed his teacher with a kitchen knife he had hidden in a roll of paper towels before moving onto an adjoining room where two teachers intervened
asked him to drop the weapon and managed to restrain him
She has since been in the thoughts of many and tributes have been pouring in
The teenager is due to appear before an examining magistrate on Friday for indictment
announced that a judicial investigation would be launched on Friday to determine whether it was a premeditated murder
given that there was "obvious preparation."
You have 85.22% of this article left to read
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additional trains and the improvement of its offer
To conquer 30% of SNCF Voyageurs' high-speed market by 2030
our low-cost offer is continuing to expand in France and Europe
with the aim of doubling the number of passengers carried by 2030 and representing 30% of the high-speed market within SNCF Voyageurs
trains through renovation operations or the deployment of new trains
Thanks to a programme to renovate old INOUI TGV trains
with a different design and level of comfort from the current Ouigo trains
The arrival of these trains will enable us to reach 33 million customers a year by 2027
renovated train meets the needs of a much broader customer base thanks to:
Biarritz and Saint-Jean-de-Luz will provide a daily round trip all year round
thereby offering an additional round trip to Bordeaux
the Paris-Rennes line will be enhanced by a 3rd Ouigo high-speed round trip
supplementing the two existing high-speed round trips and the classic Ouigo Train round trip
for example to and from the Languedoc region
between Paris and Lille and between Paris and Strasbourg
Connections between major regional cities without passing through Paris are also being considered
Ouigo will thus increase the number of stations served from around sixty today to almost 75 in 2027
the Ouigoland price map enables customers to consult a map of destinations filtered by price
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The TimesThere’s no mistaking I’m in France’s Basque country: as the motorway pushes beyond the Landes forest
the curtain of tall pines opens and the Pyrenees are ahead
I drive past the archetypal Basque architecture — red timber frames and roofs against whitewashed walls — to arrive at my hotel
I’m sipping the house cocktail while the lights of Biarritz twinkle in the distance and the waves crash against the rocks below
Tucked in the curve where France runs into Spain
St-Jean-de-Luz embodies the best of the Basque country on this side of the Pyrenees
Its long golden beach is sheltered from the Atlantic’s rolling waves by headlands jutting into the bay
a buzzing market and several excellent restaurants
It also turns out to be the ideal place to stave off winter; even in December the temperature rarely drops below 12
After breakfast on the terrace overlooking the sea
The view opens out in front of me — the town and beach are bathed in a gentle morning haze framed by the Pyrenees behind
My first port of call is the buzzing Friday morning market
stalls vie for my attention — creamy goat’s cheese
the local speciality; Espelette peppers; and
people queue with baskets for the local catch
in streets lined with houses with red and green shutters
I head towards the imposing Église St-Jean-Baptiste
Its unremarkable exterior belies the treasures inside: an astounding baroque altarpiece has three tiers of golden saints
four levels of dark-wood seating galleries rise to the roof
The church was chosen for the marriage of the French king Louis XIV and Maria Theresa of Spain in 1660
In tying the knot they ended centuries of conflict between the two countries
The royal couple’s nuptials were celebrated by the creation of a small macaron called the mouchou
a patisserie founded in the year of the wedding
where counters are full of Basque indulgences
including Espelette pepper chocolates and gâteaux basques
The 17th century was when the town became wealthy as a result of fishing and the activities of corsairs (pirates sponsored by the king)
who made this part of the Atlantic coast so fearsome that English sailors called it the Viper’s Nest
These days a boat trip is a less risky affair
so I board the small cruiser Nivelle V for a trip along the coast towards Spain
The boat heads out past the glorious beach at Ciboure
the fishing village on the opposite side of the river
It turns west after the long sea wall at Socoa
overlooked by its dinky 15th-century cylindrical fort built by Louis XIII
I’m fascinated by the sloping cliffs at Flysch
where the curious vertical strata look as if they have been made from layers of cardboard
a town on the border alongside its Spanish counterpart Hondarribia
the village famous for the local chilli peppers
Coachloads of Spanish tourists pile into the pedestrianised streets that are buzzing as visitors and locals mill about in fromageries and shops selling Basque specialities
The garlands — or ristras — of peppers hang on the front of most buildings
I sit on the terrace of Aintzina and order axoa
a veal stew flavoured with the red peppers
I ask the waitress if it is always so busy
visitors and locals disappear into restaurants and I have the village to myself
where an brook ripples past and the hum of an accordion wafts on the breeze
There’s not a soul to be seen; I’ve found my perfect escape
La Reserve Hotel has well-appointed rooms and an excellent restaurantThe luxury hotel: La ReserveA four-star hotel high above the sea, with views along the coast to Biarritz. Its excellent restaurant, Ilura, features haute cuisine with a Basque flavour. Room-only doubles are from €118 (00 33 5 59 51 32 00, hotel-lareserve.com/en/)
Hotel Ohartzia is a short stroll from the beachThe budget hotel: Hotel OhartziaThis friendly hotel in the town centre is a few steps from the beach and has 15 rooms and a quiet, tree-shaded garden at the back. Room-only doubles are from €95 (00 33 5 59 26 00 06, hotel-ohartzia.com)
Registered in England No. 894646. Registered office: 1 London Bridge Street, SE1 9GF.
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2015Save this storySaveSave this storySaveA couple are kissing on the platform in Bayonne
I’ve watched variations of this scene for many years—the station farewell
there are cigarettes and high-collared coats
next to the lovers are three young blond women wearing shorts and bikini tops
and believed I was giving up a surfer’s life for a café life in black-and-white
that I had chosen Robert Doisneau over David Hockney
where I discovered a France I’d never imagined
I sat at a pretty corner café in St-Jean-de-Luz
drinking cafés crèmes and eating croissants with raspberry jam
Watching the town’s elegant denizens stroll past
I had the sense that I’d discovered a perfect fusion of two things I loved equally
which still plays host to royalty of both the literal and the Hollywood variety.I am hardly the first to fall in love with these beaches and mountains
I am pleased to say that I have this in common with Empress Eugénie
She too fell for the landscape and brought her new husband
he built them a Belle Époque summer palace
a pretty whaling and fishing backwater some five miles from Bayonne
and Ava Gardner)—a list that reveals the fundamental tension here between the regal and the common
It is the same tension that exists in every beautiful beach town that’s become stylish
even St-Tropez was once a humble fishing village
as was every other stop along the French Riviera
It is kings or artists who often turn a good place toward ruin
But it is not ruin I am thinking of as I’m shown to my massive room at the Hôtel du Palais
I draw back the heavy velvet drapes as far as they’ll go and open the windows: There is the ocean shifting from deep blue to turquoise and back again
and the sound of waves breaking on the beach below
I can see children running through the water
a couple spreading out their towels on the sand
Beneath my window is a long-haired surfer singing the Red Hot Chili Peppers’ “Under the Bridge” in a thick French accent
I wonder if Empress Eugénie would have taken as much pleasure in this scene as I do
I imagine so—even if she was a staunch Catholic and notoriously conservative
How else to explain the photograph of a handsome young man
“One must learn to love in secret.” I like to think that she came to Biarritz for love—perhaps of that young man
I descend the wide carpeted staircase to the lobby with its crystal chandeliers
and leave my key on its heavy gold chain with one of the concierges
the hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant (jacket required)
and out through the tall wrought iron gates that surround the property
A suite at Les Prés d’Eugénie with a view of the garden beyond.That evening
I walk the promenade curving along the wide main beach
and that exceptional September light has turned everything amber—the cliffs
the simple restaurants lining the Port Vieux
I sit outside above the water and eat wonderful grilled sardines with a carafe of rough rosé while the sun sets
after wandering the paths that run along the seawall
which floats at the far northern end of the beach
I want to fall asleep to the sound of the waves breaking
I roam the beaches of Bidart and Guéthary
a little road I remember from years ago that ends at a tiny cove with waves breaking over rock reef
one of my favorite beaches on this stretch of coast: perfect yellow sand protected and contained by a low hill of grass
It reminds me so much of places I grew up surfing in California—not so much for the way it looks as for the feeling of secrecy
But what those places do not have is La Plancha
To eat so well—fresh hake with piment d’espelette and razor-thin slices of garlic sizzling in olive oil—barefoot on a simple terrace full of sunstruck people
is a pleasure second only to being in the ocean
I’m confronted by an enormous gray dog stalking down the lobby corridor
its nails clicking on the inlaid marble floor
“Rudi!” Everyone turns to watch as the dog trots back to its owner
who waits impatiently in the open elevator
thinking that neither man nor beast would have been out of place here a century and a half ago
and kings with all their eccentricities were common
I enter my room to find chocolates on the bedside table
a tiny inn north of Biarritz.In the morning
a spa town about two hours northeast of Biarritz
but I can’t help thinking that for all its careful opulence
the Hôtel du Palais lacks something of the spirit
which was renamed for her in 1861 when she granted the town her patronage
lusher; by the time I reach Michel Guérard’s Les Prés d’Eugénie
Guérard was a young chef who transformed a once simple North African restaurant in the northern suburbs of Paris into Pot-au-Feu and made it world famous
he’d been granted two Michelin stars and had fallen in love with his wife
Christine (who had turned a family estate into a Relais & Châteaux property)
Guérard left his restaurant and moved south to Eugénie-les-Bains
he and Christine have been amiably ruling over this exquisite kingdom composed of 40 acres of parkland
Michel Guérard is—at least in France—more famous for cuisine minceur
an unfortunate term for food that manages to both be healthful and not taste like an old paperback
which serves his “slimming cuisine” as well as a full- blown
has maintained three Michelin stars since 1977
but having spent the last few nights at a hotel best known for its icons
I keep expecting a wave of tourists to pour over the dunes
It feels impossible that I should be in France
one of the most visited nations in the world
which smells faintly of wood smoke and lavender
down to the polished brass light switches and the bottle of Guérard Armagnac on the dresser
but none of it feels at odds with or in opposition to its environment the way the Hôtel du Palais occasionally did
Eventually I find my way to La Ferme Thermale
After exchanging my clothes for a cotton robe
I sit on a couch drinking a tea made of leaves harvested from the garden
The floors are seventeenth-century terra-cotta; a fire burns in the massive fireplace
A young woman ushers me into an elegant room with a smaller fireplace and a long bathtub
It has been drawn with warm thermal water infused with rosemary
These herbs have also been bound into a fat bouquet that she encourages me to use as a scrub brush
I follow my attendant’s advice while Eugénie and Napoleon III gaze down on me from their gilt frames
looking out at the late sun shining through the leaves of a plane tree
I’m served a glass of Guérard champagne and handed a menu with both categories—cuisine minceur and cuisine gourmande
It seems madness to live with any kind of restriction here
a restaurant’s three Michelin stars often mean that both the food and I will be treated with the grave seriousness of an operating room
But for all the refined elegance of the place
there is a lack of pretension that makes dining here an unmitigated joy
I will not go on about every dish that night
Les Prés d’Eugénie: An exquisite kingdom composed of 40 acres of parkland
One of Guérard’s most famous creations is a single egg slowly scrambled with cream
It is served in an eggcup balanced atop a ceramic chicken’s foot
and the pleasure they take in watching me eat half a lobster cooked in a wood oven and accompanied by onions and peach cream
There is also the duck with minced pigeon and clementines
I return to the garden for coffee and mignardises
and the air smells of jasmine and orange flowers
after breakfast is delivered to my room (there is no choice here—it is breakfast in bed or no breakfast at all)
an outpost of the Guérards’ empire about an hour north of Biarritz
I think of the conversation I had with Madame Guérard
a strikingly beautiful woman dressed in a starched white gown
She spoke about the property with evident pride
and to be happy you must commit to one madness or another
A guy in dreadlocks cruises by in a beat-up van
a stack of surfboards strapped to the roof
it’s somehow a shock to hear the staff speaking French
a kind of majordomo who serves as housekeeper
built as a hunting lodge in 1858 by Baron Charles-Eucher Boulart
looks like no other I’ve seen in the region
The roof is made of red tile; the outer walls are yellow and trimmed in a deep Moab red
beautifully restored buildings of weathered gray wood—one a former boathouse
Each is reminiscent of my room in Eugénie
I follow a wooden walkway that rises through the dunes and high grass until I come to a low gate
The beach is wide and stretches on and on in both directions
I have the sense that I’ve stumbled upon some wild
It is the same feeling I imagine Eugénie might have had the first time she saw it
After a long swim and a bath in the beautiful stone tub in my room
I dress and walk to the worn wooden deck that wraps around the Pavillon Anglais
Claudine shows me to a table facing west and places a plate of spoons in front of me
On each is a piece of endive stuffed with minced veal
She opens a bottle of Billecart-Salmon rosé and pours me a glass
after the sun is replaced by a sky the color of champagne
and a dessert of three small strawberry tarts
unpretentious meal that perfectly matches this place: the art of balance that the Guérards have mastered
not to look at the water but to look back at this little haven
where I will sleep as deeply as I’ve slept in months
Hôtel du Palais: Victor Hugo
and Bing Crosby have all stayed at this oceanfront stunner that’s so close to the Atlantic
Hôtel La Villa l’Arche: If you’re a surfer
be sure to seek out this second-home-of-your-dreams just off the coastal road
It has seamless access to Les Embruns Beach
Guérard Armagnac: In the guest rooms at the Guérards’ Les Prés d’Eugénie, you’ll find a bottle of the housemade brandy on the dresser. Have it as a nightcap, after a meal of fire-roasted suckling pig or Landes chicken at the hotel’s La Ferme aux Grives restaurant.
Izarra Jaune: An herbal liqueur with a slight almond flavor, it is usually served as a digestif.
Txakoli: This crisp, clean, sparkling white wine (pronounced chock-oh-LEE), which pairs nicely with seafood or charcuterie, is made from the hondarrabi zuri, a grape native to the neighboring Spanish Basque region.
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Authentic Brands Group announced Wednesday that it has finalized a deal with French company Beaumanoir to acquire the former Boardriders operations in France and to license the Quiksilver
with 2.3 billion euros in annual revenue and 2,000 retail stores
operates a variety of brands and retail concepts across the fashion spectrum
and e-commerce for the brand in key categories such as apparel
“With great expertise behind us, we are confident in our ability to stimulate the development of famous brands such as Quiksilver, Billabong, and Roxy, in France and across Europe,” said Jérôme Drianno, CEO of Beaumanoir
“Wholesale operations represent a key growth area for the future of the Boardriders Group
and an avenue for diversification of Beaumanoir
as does the international expansion this acquisition makes possible.”
The current president of Boardriders EMEA, Nicolas Foulet
“The acquisition by the Beaumanoir Group opens up new avenues for long-term investment for all the Boardriders brands in Europe,” Nicolas Foulet
I am fully committed to and enthusiastic about this news
which promises to increase the presence of our brands in their market.”
Europe has been an important region for Boardriders
with many of the brands having a more elevated position in the market
and they are often more profitable in the region as well
Several Boardriders brands also have their global brand teams based in France
David Brooks, executive vice president of Action Sports and Outdoor Sports at Authentic, told SES in a previous interview that the global brand teams for those brands will remain based in Europe
“Nico Foulet and his legacy Boardriders team in Europe have a deep understanding of our customer and extensive wholesale relationships
combined with Beaumanoir’s expertise in sourcing
we are excited for the future and for the opportunities that the partnership will bring.”
Posted in: News
Tagged with: Authentic Brands Group, Beaumanoir Group, Boardriders
editorial@shop-eat-surf-outdoor.com
advertising@shop-eat-surf-outdoor.com
tiffany@shop-eat-surf-outdoor.com
Matthew.Yates@emeraldX.com
by André Pavlovsky in Ciboure and Saint Jean de Luz in the French Basque Country
For high resolution versions of these photographs, visit davewalshphoto.com’s gallery: Les phares jumeaux de Ciboure et Saint Jean de Luz – The Twin Lighthouses, Basque Country
French Basque Country is foodie heaven by the sea
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They say when you come to Biarritz
It might not boast of the brightest constellation of Michelin-starred restaurants (that plaudit goes to Basque sister town
San Sebastian) but what it does have is an extraordinary number of places to gorge yourself with wild abandon
Jean Cocteau and Frank Sinatra spent summers and a place immortalised in Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises
We checked in to the town’s other grand dame hotel
With its Belle Epoque architecture and detailing (the Eiffel Tower-inspired ceiling of the main atrium is particularly wonderful) and postcard-perfect views of the Atlantic from our bedroom
the cortisol from our 7am EasyJet flight evaporated instantly
Special mention has to go to the woman behind its neo-deco aesthetic
who has woven seaside-inflected flourishes into the interiors seamlessly
jaunty rope tassels and bronzed seashell sconces lining the walls
so our first port of call was Les Halles market
We made like the locals and started off with coffee from Lobita and snacked on pintxos at as many counters as we could handle before grabbing local specialities for lunch on the seafront
a big draw for surfers (our concierge said it’s not uncommon to master the art in a weekend) but we were content watching the swells from a distance on our petite picnique
We headed back towards our hotel in a post-lunch stupor along the esplanade
where the other great sport Biarritz offers is people watching
While there is a pervasive feeling of old money (the private villas and their manicured gardens prove as much)
you’ll have a hard time spotting a guy in finance with a trust fund
not fast and flash; in their happy place perusing brica-brac at the weekend antiques market or playing pétanque at sunset at the roadside café Extola Bibi
After a reviving massage at the hotel’s subterranean spa
open room and candlelit tables offered a perfect setting for the exquisite food
Local wine producers dominated the house lists
while plates festooned with curried carrots
pickled girolles and tender veal chops from Basque farmer Pierre Matayron disappeared as soon as they were set down
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Now it is the turn of the two groups’ European headquarters to merge
They are both based in south-western France
about 40 km away from each other: Boardriders is in Saint-Jean-de-Luz and Billabong in Hossegor.Their merger had been on the cards for quite some time
the reorganisation plan was presented to Billabong’s 170 employees
starting a three-month period of discussions between employee representatives from both Boardriders and Billabong and a joint committee from the two groups
the regional authority for competition and employment
Saint-Jean-de-Luz takes pride of place in a region blessed with great beaches
I’m watching my friends try to balance on paddleboards
cheered on by an instructor in Vilebrequins
Not at all — I’m being pounded with jets in our hotel’s thalassotherapy pool
Catching the sun in a warm bath of natural springwater is salty heaven
we meet in the pedestrianised streets to shop
inhaling the scent from a dozen patisseries
In Sandales Bayona we try on candy-striped espadrilles from tall stacks behind the counter and pay our £12 apiece
I hadn’t been prepared to get much out of Le Pays Basque
Spain’s Basque region seems to get all the love — pintxos
Pays Basque villages are distinctively Tudor-Alpine: chalky-white
The colours are deliberate: chalk predated stucco
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Behind a port strewn with fishing nets are decadent Italianate villas
including the mansion where Louis XIV married Maria Theresa of Spain in the 17th century
We see bearded fishermen with woolly jumpers and flat caps
A walk around the bay takes lands us in Ciboure for lunch on the beach
His process is innovative: he pours wine into tanks
When it’s sloshed around enough he ferments it like champagne
“The name means ‘the truth is in the wine’ in Basque,” says our guide
The next day we head north to revel in the ragged coastline
Trails plough for miles over dunes and brush-covered cliffs
where shaggy-haired surfers peeled down their wetsuits at rustic beer shacks
Then we double back to Erromardie for platters of Bayonne ham and marinated octopus at a seaview brasserie
Back in Saint-Jean-de-Luz we enjoy the easy glam of a seafood bistro (La Boëte) serving lobster
The sort of place where you grab sundowners then stumble in for squid named after local lad Jean Paul Gaultier
and learn that the restaurant (L’Océan) actually has a Michelin star
The boutique-hotel concept is still rather foreign on the coast but it’s made inroads inland
Inching behind cyclists aiming for the Pyrenees
Its timbered cottages backed by mountains include Arraya
a fine restaurant that tosses Basque delicacies — spider crab
Kintoa pork — into the Franco-Spanish canon
The guesthouse upstairs is all dinged wood antiques and bolts of toile
topless pelota players compete with vein-popping aggression
then hug like brothers after the last lash of the ball
We break off onto a path past tiny wood chapels
part of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route
Though we could have hiked all the way to Navarra in Spain we head for Ainhoa
Our great regret is that we can’t bank more time at the palm-lined pool
linger longer over pigeon and Breton octopus in the dining room
Ithurria’s restaurant barely whispers about its own Michelin star
We have time for one final trip before returning to Biarritz — the mountain of La Rhûne
and with a funicular that chugs to the summit past shaggy horses
you can see over the Spanish border to San Sebastián
Ryanair flies from Stansted to Biarritz from £70 return
saint-jean-de-luz.com/en
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Photo: Paloma Saint LégerFrom the picturesque beaches that have earned it the title of Europe’s surf capital
to its majestic landscapes articulated through the Pyrenees mountains and the rolling hills of Basque Country
to its proximity to cultural hubs like Bordeaux and Madrid
Biarritz has remained something of a well-kept secret
and French locals have been visiting for years
Biarritz is having a moment right now: what with the likes of experienced French chefs
and a renowned gallerist all making their mark on the unassuming seaside town in this small corner of France’s southwest
a guide to Biarritz—and why it’s set to be this summer’s buzziest European beach destination
it remains the jewel of France’s southwest to this day
the past five years have seen a string of new-agey boutique hotels populating the seaside town’s western shores
signaling a new awakening for an oft-overlooked slice of France’s coastline
a 27-room boutique hotel situated in a former classic car garage that opened in 2021
located just a 10-minute walk from the beach
serving sandwiches with locally-sourced ingredients paired with natural wines and hot beverages
vinyl records spin daily while a rotation of chefs from all over France are invited to take over the kitchen
A popular dinner outpost since 2016, Carøe is owned by a Danish husband-wife duo who sought to create a cross between a restaurant and a tapas bar
serving seasonal products paired with natural wine and good music
Primarily offering up fish dishes from small boats around the harbor of Saint Jean de Luz and shellfish from the Atlantic up to Brittany
as well as one meat plate and many vegetables
transforming the former fish shop into a casual restaurant focused on local
and seasonal ingredients with a daily-changing dinner menu centered around sustainability
featuring 60 to 70 percent vegetable-forward items
as well as high quality and sustainably-sourced fish and meat
guests can access the wine cellar to hand-select their own bottle of natural wine to pair with their meal
Chef and owner Anthony Orjollet of Eléments opened EPOQ
and wine shop in the center of Biarritz in 2019
Serving local and sustainable cuisine– 80 percent of which is cooked on an open fire—Orjollet places a particular focus on biodynamic and natural wines
Working closely with wild foragers and botanists
as well as independent fishermen and local cheesemakers
98 percent of their offering is local and organic
Travelers have long descended on Biarritz not only for its gastronomic excellence
but also for its unwavering promise of surf and sun
The scenic seaside town was once a hub for members of France’s high society who preferred something more laid back than the glitzy Cote D’Azur in the east
and a casual atmosphere still persists here
thanks in part to the surf culture that has propagated over the years
It’s no secret that Biarritz is a surfer’s paradise
often being dubbed “little California'” for its breathtaking beaches like Le Grande Plage
(Those seeking calmer waters can swim in smaller bays like Plage du Miramar
which the British gallerist opened in 2021
As the first contemporary art space in Biarritz
which has featured exhibitions by artists like Gaetano Pesce and Tim Breuer
Chadwick’s presence has led to many in the art and fashion worlds making a beeline for the city over the past few years
An exhibit by artist Tim Breuer at Galerie Champ Lacombe
Champ Lacombe will host an immersive group exhibition co-curated by Taylor Trabulus: titled “Baroque,” it features over 20 international artists across multiple mediums and will span both the gallery and Biarritz and Chadwick’s new outdoor location in Les Landes
“[While] there is an abundance of cultural festivals that take place in and around Biarritz annually
there have not been many new physical spaces that have opened in Biarritz itself as the contemporary art scene is particularly new,” Chadwick explains
More recently, there have been a series of projects and residencies taking place at Villa Magnan, as well as at Sunburn Store
Chadwick continues: “The closest active contemporary art scenes are in Bordeaux
where the CAPC Museum has a brilliant program led by Cedric Fauq
and then across the border in Spain in San Sebastián and Bilbao.” Looks like it won’t be long before Biarritz has its moment in the creative spotlight
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A group of 32 senior rugby players from the School’s 1st XV and 2nd XV
embarked on an intense and rewarding pre-season tour in the Basque Country in late August
1st XV Coach and Deputy Head of English as rugby coaches alongside Matt Cowley
Head of Athletic Development and George Demitriou
the team spent six days immersed in rugby and team-building activities
The tour kicked off with a day of pre-season training at School
where the players stayed overnight in Ferox Hall before flying from Gatwick to Bilbao
The Squad then settled into a hotel in Anglet and trained each morning at the Stade Christian Belascain in Bayonne
Afternoons were spent exploring local Basque towns including Bayonne
Anglet and the stunning coastal city of San Sebastian
A highlight of the trip was a pre-season fixture against Saint Jean De Luz on Friday evening
The Tonbridge team faced a physical and determined local opposition but emerged victorious in their first competitive match of the season
the team enjoyed the warm hospitality of their hosts
Saturday offered a change of pace with a surf lesson in Anglet
followed by an exciting local rugby derby between Biarritz and Bayonne
where former England international Manu Tuilagi made his debut for Bayonne
The tour provided a perfect blend of training
setting the stage for a promising rugby season ahead
Back to news
cliff-top La Réserve is full of patriotic local colour – and don't miss the chef's l'oeuf piperade
La Réserve stands high above the Atlantic on the cliffs to the north of St-Jean-de-Luz
It's hard to imagine a more dramatic location for a hotel
which includes the legendary Byblos in St Tropez
but it's more than fit for chic four-star purpose after a comprehensive updating of the bedrooms last year
Opening this weekend after its winter break
it is ready to receive guests for the new season
the seven stripes of the Basque provinces – three in France
four in Spain – feature prominently in the bar
The regional souvenir of choice is a cotton
but the hotel's approach to the motif is more restrained
Terracotta walls and red-tiled floors contrast with deep brown sofas and striped chairs in muted shades of beige and cream
some of unknown purpose but all marked with the Basque cross
potted orchids and vases of cut hydrangeas create a relaxed and homely ambience
the British have brought home pleasures to the area
but lawns dotted with palm trees rolling towards the ocean evoke ghosts of fairways past
when wealth accumulated by pirates supported a city of 12,000
and the Infanta Maria Theresa of Spain in 1660
Their elaborate his-and-hers palaces are flanked by handsome townhouses built for courtiers and corsairs in the surrounding streets
There are 41 rooms and five suites in the main Basque villa
plus 44 apartments for two to seven people in the Residence
The hotel introduced a radical new concept during the refurbishment
replacing the original traditional style with lighter colours and clean
The rooms come in assorted colours – the yellow of ripe corn
reflecting seasonal aspects of the Basque environment
but mixed with softer shades of beige to lessen the aggression
Opening the French doors to the panoramic balcony allowed the sound of the sea to roar in through the night
has been exploring his native cuisine for the benefit of customers in the Ilura restaurant
baby rabbit or scallops tickle many palates
but his pièce de résistance is l'oeuf piperade
his interpretation of the region's signature dish
but the most typical ones take their name from the mountain village of Irouléguy
The vines are planted on terraces between 100m and 400m above sea level
Producing robust reds on such harsh terrain requires considerable ingenuity
but the results – on offer at La Réserve – are both affordable and delectable
looks as if it falls off the cliff into the Atlantic
and the sauna is more gesture than facility
sandy bay and all along the coast is sensational
And even though the Golf des Anglais is no longer
the Chantaco and La Nivelle clubs are mere minutes away
La Réserve, Pointe Sainte Barbe, 1 Avenue Gaëtan Bernoville, St-Jean- de-Luz, Aquitaine, France (00 33 5 59 51 32 00; hotel-lareserve.com).
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but the sun pours down from the cloudless blue sky
Agop smiles as he opens the door to the tasting cellar
stocked with biodynamic wines from Bertrand’s 16 estates throughout the Occitanie region
Talk about le sud conjures up images of lavender fields in Provence and the glitzy beaches of Saint Tropez—and no doubt
But outside of that postcard version of southern France
regions like wine-soaked Languedoc and surf-haven Basque Country are brimming with culture
Especially when coming from the mercurial city of Paris
the South of France also offers a spirit of generosity—and still plenty of excellent food and wine
a guide to some of our favorite cities and towns across the South of France
All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors
Hôtel du Palais was commissioned by Napoleon III's wife and put the town of Biarritz on the map in the 1800s
Biarritz has been a resort town since the 1800s and the Hôtel du Palais
commissioned by Empress Eugenie de Montijo
With views overlooking the Atlantic and the Pyrenees in the distance
the swank seaside resort reopened in June 2022 after extensive renovations
While some of the rooms (86 rooms and 56 suites) retain historic details— ceiling woodwork
with deep-sea blues and porthole-shaped windows
in partnership with Maison Guerlain and the Leonor Greyl hair institute
several restaurants run by the Michelin-star-decorated Aurelien Largeau
The 27 rooms and suites have vintage touches
with warm woods and terrazzo accents—“neo-retro,” as they call it
There’s also a bistro with elegant-meets-cozy dishes like pork breast confit and raclette croque monsieur
guests can choose between the onsite heated pool or the beaches of Biarrtiz
The historical center of the town of Gruissan's Barberousse Tower in top seen from the opposite side of the pond
On the very bottom of the hexagon that shapes France
From the Roman footprints in Nîmes to the festive spirit of Toulouse and the wine routes of Languedoc
L'Occitanie offers a unique perspective of the south
Languedoc is one of the fastest-growing wine regions in France
It’s the biggest producer of AOC rosé wines—bottling even more rosé-all-day than its neighbor to the east
Opened in 2002 by winemaker Gérard Bertrand
the wine resort has perfected the art of hospitality
While the château features 13 rooms and 17 suites
the newer Villa Soleilla suites are even more secluded
The Suite Soleilla is especially luxe—over 1,000 airy square feet
with a serene lounge area and a wine cave filled with Bertrand’s choice bottles
past the private terrace and over the rolling hills of vineyards
You can book tailored treatments at the Biologique Recherche
or a lunch or dinner rez at one of three onsite restaurants
guests can dine a la plage at the resort's beach club
a late-night dinner started with a glass of the delightfully complex Clos du Temple (a biodynamic rosé that commands $190 per bottle) and ended with a warm
topped with flaky salt and vanilla bean ice cream
July guests have a first-row seat to the property’s well-attended annual Jazz Festival
The neo-gothic Château has eight hotel bedrooms
with vintage chandeliers and art nouveau mirrors
and Mediterranean gardens designed by award-winning designer James Basson
in partnership with French cult brand Cinq Mondes
hop on a bike and cycle along the canal to the seaside town of Gruissan and stop to explore local artisan shops along the way
locals shop for quality local ingredients and gather around tables for platters of fruits des mer and generous pours of wine
where the specialty is beef and horse tartare
diners get the best show in town—proprietor Bebelle uses a megaphone to shout to the neighboring butcher orders for fresh ground meat
which is then lobbed across the market and into the restaurant to adorn plates piled high with homemade frites
Matisse and Picasso were captivated by the nature and light of the Côte d'Azur
or the French Riviera—a region characterized by sea
Raphael Navot designed the 45 rooms and eight pied-à-terres apartments
Though the hotel is a great jumping off point for exploring the French Riviera
like the buzzy rooftop restaurant from chef Eyal Shani (of the Miznon restaurants) and the Villa Belle Plage spa
where guests can pamper themselves with HydraFacials©
Provence's lavender fields are a few hour's drive from the Cote d'Azur for a unique mix of scenery
produced prolific work from his house surrounded by gardens in Saint-Paul de Vence
Located in a small commune (population 475) of Crillon-Le-Brave in Vaucluse, Hotel Crillon le Brave is dedicated to the art of slowing down
The 16 rooms and 18 suites rooms look out onto views of vineyards and the mountains of Ventoux
With a facial treatment menu designed by Tata Harper
the Serene Spa Des Ecuries is a definite selling point
or explore the medieval village in Crillon-le-Brave
Pritzker-Prize-winning architect Jean Nouvel designed the state-of-the-art winery
Celebrated cook-by-fire proselytizer Francis Mallman opened a restaurant there in 2017
you’ll find pieces from artists like Louise Bourgeois and Alexander Calder
This extraordinary region in southwest France oozes laid-back cool
Hemmed between the Bay of Biscay and the Pyrenees
it offers a more authentic Basque experience than its Spanish counterpart
This article was published more than 7 years ago
but who am I to refuse a taste of frothy rosé on a sun-soaked terrace overlooking the Bay of Biscay
a new Pays Basque winery would make a lush out of you
with its fruity-fresh fizz and après-surf setting on the beach at Ciboure
A converted warehouse dotted with sandy footprints
developed by former Moet executive Emmanuel Poirmeur when he discovered Ciboure's protected inlet provided the perfect conditions for a light
I'm told by his suntanned assistant Francine as she tours me around the dark cellars in a hollow of a cliff face
Poirmeur settled on his unique process: press white and red Basque grapes
pour 10 per cent of the liquid into polyethylene tanks and bury them 45 feet under the bay
The gentle sloshing of the liquid during the tides
combined with the oxygen and carbon dioxide that seeps into the tanks
creates a chemical synergy too complex to detail here
But the upshot is a fine sparkle and pleasant acidity that
"means 'the truth is in the wine' in Basque." Neither version rolls off the tongue
Though I could not resist Francine's taster of rosé (nor red
nor the diaphanously sliced jambon de Bayonne)
Pays Basque creeps up on you that way: extraordinary stuff under the guise of laid-back cool
less populous and less developed by industry and tourism than its Spanish counterpart
its culture is less diluted than other regions
Basque is still the official language – priests hired to work at Bayonne Cathedral
Eglise d'Ainhoa or anywhere in between must learn to speak it fluently before the first sermon
Even the tiniest hilltop villages have a gabled wall reserved for pelota
the local handball that men in whites play (and speculate on) fiercely and competitively
The French see it as quelque chose d'exotique; the English as quelque chose d'authentique
where the half-timbered oxblood fisherman's cottages were once painted with the actual blood of oxen
It's the sort of place where the fishmonger's stucco hut
stays open late a few nights a week to present diners with heaping platters of briny
Its population of 14,000 is roughly the same as it was as right after the French Revolution
And yet the same town hosted the plush 1660 wedding of King Louis XIV to the Spanish Infanta Maria Theresa
which you can read about at Maison Louis XIV museum in the small market square
where the groom spent his last night as a bachelor
Adam provided guests with the first macarons – simple almond-powder biscuits denser than the Ladurée meringues we now know
Maison Adam still sells them at its richly stocked épicerie across Place Louis XIV
I instead ordered a half-dozen in Adam's parchment-lined white paper box
then turned into Gambetta anyway to try on espadrilles at Sandales Bayona
a fifth-generation family business that stacks hundreds of pairs behind the counter like old-fashioned dry goods
last season Gucci did them for $675.)
for drinks at Le Clipper at the Grand Hotel
Grand Tour inns on the Atlantic get short-shrift these days
with everyone jetting to boutique hotels on the Med
but this one's had a rock-solid refurbishment in marble and jewel-toned velvets
Le Clipper's new west-facing terrace hits the sea wall
to take advantage of those 2,000 hours of sunshine a year
It's slick as a deck on the Regent Seven Seas
though you can get a Patxaran cocktail flavoured with local Espelette pepper for less than $20
a Michelin-star joint helmed by the affable Christophe Grosjean
I'm presented with the marquee dish on the $158 dinner tasting menu: a "deconstructed" squid etched with zebra stripes
stuffed with potato risotto and referred to as chipron a la Gaultier
The designer and L'Océan fan Jean-Paul Gaultier
is the sociable poster child for the town
French Basque Country bleeds 150 kilometres inland and south to La Rhune
a mountain on the French-Spanish border with a population of squat
You can board a cog-wheel train for the 35-minute ascent
Or hike the grassy medieval pilgrimage route outside the languid village of Sare
a timber-beamed Michelin-star family bistro with pastel-painted guest rooms in winsome Ainhoa
The serpentine roads between them swing around small chili pepper holdings and three-million-year-old caves in the limestone massif and slate bergeries gently leaning into the earth
The absence of any major industry means an absence of industrial blight; the ugliest building you'll pass is an Intermarché superstore
you can walk 30 kilometres of coastal path from Biarritz to Hendaye
avoiding big spends and the regrettable designation of a driver
From the train station in the surf town Guéthary
where commuters watch the tracks while noshing on Basque tapas
I follow the arc of the sun as the path inclines gently past food vans in marooned open-topped buses and vast nets collecting algae for face cream
Overlooking the ramshackle cabanas at Acotz
I watch the sea bash the earthy sand punishingly while surfers stuff themselves into neoprene
I slowly get smashed on the route approaching Saint-Jean-de-Luz
named for the Belle Epoque taverns painted by the Impressionists
stubby sausages to stab with toothpicks and
the local dry wine with a 25-per-cent alcohol content
A sling-lounger by a low table at the sea wall is good for the soul
bad for the hair if you get anything close to average winds
It's 40 minutes back to Saint-Jean-de-Luz and
I've rounded Pointe Sainte-Barbe to the hotel strip
I am soon slipping into a steamy saltwater cove with views out to sea
flapping clumsily against a too-strong current
I'm faintly allergic to cold Atlantic water and terrified of jellyfish
but this is ocean "lite," a thalassotherapy circuit pool siphoned from the sea and pimped up for elderly and arthritic tourists
who began coming here to avail themselves of the healing saltwater in the 1950s
but this is the most-fun-least-cool activity I've done in years
tumbling in the wrong direction like an unfit salmon
When the aquabics class around the sinuous bend empties out
I drift in to avail myself of the massage jets
you should do it like nobody's watching
The world capital of thalassotherapy is France's Atlantic coast
You're not even allowed to call yourself "thalasso" if you're more than a few metres from shore
so the spas that cluster near the Spanish border are so close to the bay the windows get spray
No one has determined the therapeutic benefits of thalasso
I'm the young whippersnapper here and who can deny the energizing effects of being the youngest in the room
But nor has anybody calculated the benefits of a cold glass of rosé or a sea-wall hike and a macaron
Maison Tamarin: This eight-bedroom farmhouse bed and breakfast in Acotz on the coastal road between Guéthary and Saint-Jean-de-Luz faces an outdoor pool, two hectares of gardens and one of the quietest beaches on the Côte Basque. Perfectly placed for families, surfers and daytrippers. Doubles from $195. maisontamarin.com
Hotel Hélianthal: On the strip in Saint-Jean-de-Luz, this B&B has the most popular thalasso circuit and a prime location near the shops and bars of the town. Doubles from $229. helianthal.fr
La Boëte (Saint-Jean-de-Luz): Local brothers serve fresh-from-the-sea shellfish platters, grilled vegetables drizzled with oil and thick fish soups – to be washed down with local white wine or cold Basque beer. laboete-restaurant-poissonnerie-64.com
Kaiku (Saint-Jean-de-Luz): Designer Jean-Paul Gaultier is a neighbour and frequenter of this 16th-century stone cellar run by Nicolas Borombo. He deals with local farms and designs exquisite dishes not only with the local fish but veal, pigeon and a 36-hour lamb confit. kaiku.fr
The writer was a guest of the Tourist Office of the Pays de Saint-Jean-de-Luz – Terre and Côte Basques
It did not review or approve this article
hosted the plush 1660 wedding of King Louis XIV to Spanish Infanta Maria Theresa.\n
a pioneering winemaker invented a technique in which Basque grape liquid is poured into vats and buried 45 feet under the bay
where the tides slosh the liquid and infuse it with oxygen and carbon dioxide.\n
\nYou can read about King Louis XIV’s wedding at the Maison Louis XIV museum in Saint-Jean-de-Luz’s small market square.\n
you can board a cog-wheel train for the 35-minute ascent.\n
you can nosh on Basque tapas on the patio at Le Poinçon.\n
the towns of Biarritz and Saint Jean de Luz are two evergreen resorts in the Basque country
but while the tapas delights of San Sebastian and culture of Bilbao bag most headlines
in the western foothills of the Pyrenees facing the Atlantic
a destination of note since Napoleon III built a waterfront home for his wife
in the 1850s and made the town the summer residence of his imperial court
Today Biarritz retains that international allure
It’s a stylish holiday resort complete with jaunty
candy-coloured beach parasols and world-class surfers competing for the best waves
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PARIS (AP) — A train hit and killed three people and seriously injured another person in southwestern France on Tuesday morning
The regional prosecutor said the victims appeared to be Algerian migrants who had been expelled from nearby Spain and had been sleeping on the tracks
The train was on a line that links the seaside resort town of Hendaye
The collision occurred at around 5:30 a.m.
striking four people who were on the tracks
Only one victim has been definitively identified: a 21-year-old man who had recently received an expulsion order from Spanish authorities
according to Bayonne Prosecutor Jérôme Bourrier
Two others had documents suggesting they were in the same situation
but authorities are still working to verify their identities
He said it appeared that the group had been sleeping on the tracks
and were hit by the first train of the morning
While he said migrants walk on the tracks in the area
“what’s more surprising here is that the people were lying down
The injured person's life is not in danger
Follow AP’s global migration coverage at https://apnews.com/hub/migration
rewritten or redistributed without permission
Conversations and previous steps have been taking place since 2016
and these last years delegations from the coastal Lapurdi city visited the city in California and vice versa
Jean de Luz) and Bakersfield are going to carry out youth exchange programs providing stays to facilitate getting to know and learn in another city
one of the first measures that will promote the sister-city relationship
located an hour and a half northeast of Los Angeles is a city that since its beginnings in the 19th century
has had a significant Basque presence. It Euskal Etxea
the Kern County Basque Club is celebrating this year its 75th anniversary
parking. This celebration also coincided with the club hosting last May the 2019 annual NABO convention
Other sister-city relationships in the US with the Basque Country include Donibane Garazi (St Jean Pie de Port) and South San Francisco
Basque culture rules in this south-west region of France
where visitors can also enjoy superb beaches and unique cuisine
The Standard's journalism is supported by our readers
When you purchase through links on our site
Land at Biarritz airport at the height of summer and you can expect half of your fellow travellers to be heading for the oversized luggage
Biarritz of course is the home of surfing in France and thousands make the pilgrimage to its golden sands and rolling waves
snowcapped in the winter but dotted with villages full of traditional red-and-white Basque-style houses
It’s light years away from what many visitors might call France
The French Basque Country starts in Biarritz and nearby Bayonne but the Basque influence is far more in evidence the further south you go from these urban outposts
Our first stop on a whistlestop tour of the French Basque region takes us just 10 minutes’ drive from the airport
The Basques are as passionate about this fine tipple as the Bretons and Normans further north - and Arbonne's Cidrerie du Fronton
with its long tables and convivial atmosphere
The cider actually comes free with your meal
and you pour it yourself from huge vats on the wall
Further south and the picturesque village of St-Pee-sur-Neville brings us into first contact with that great Basque tradition
This curious squash-like game featuring players lashing a ball against a fronton (wall) with the help of a huge wooden claw attached to the hand can be witnessed first-hand at many exhibition matches held in the Basque villages
FTSE 100 closes lower as global markets continue to wobble
Come to St-Pee on the second Sunday of May and you are likely to be overrun by the huge Herri Urats festival celebrating Basque language schools
It's actually held at the lovely St Pee lake just outside town
with its sandy beach and cafes and a nearby camping ground
though thankfully the Basque flavour extends here too
offering not only glorious sands and great waves but also a delightful village centre up the hill
pelota wall and al fresco dining at the Hotel du Fronton or Hotel Elissaldia opposite
The presence of a country and western band playing on the steps of the town hall while encouraging visitors to line dance adds a surreal touch to our visit
as well as a sweeping bay sheltered by sea walls
with restaurants and bars gathered around its charming place Louis XIV
where you might also be lucky enough to be serenaded by an orchestra or prove inspiration to a painter
St Jean de Luz is also the home of macaroons - Maison Adam
with its distinctive red and black chillis above its awning on the edge of place Louis XIV
has been going since 1660 when the family first devised the macaron recipe
If you are a fan then you can't miss a visit to Espelette
The Espelette pepper - mainly used in the production of Bayonne ham - is only mildly spicy but is hot stuff indeed around here
particularly in this month’s harvest season when they are hung out to dry on balconies of every house
The Espelette pepper festival is held on the last weekend of October and attracts thousands of tourists
with its huge Basque houses and restaurants such as Auberge Alzate with its lovely terrace at the back with views of the Rhune mountain
as the rickety ‘Petit Train’ – an authentic wooden train dating to 1924 – takes you from Sare up the 905-metre high mountain on a 35-minute ride past red-headed sheep and pottoks (Basque ponies) grazing on the slopes
And last but not least there is St-Jean-Pied-de-Port
a preserved 13th-century town on the River Nive with an ancient Roman bridge
over the Nive River that’s just 8kms from the Spanish border
It’s the old capital of the Basque province of Lower Navarre and also a starting point for walkers on the Camino de Santiago walk
hilly region is also home to some splendid wines – sadly we do not have time to visit the Irouléguy wine trail just outside town on the way to Saint-Étienne-de-Baïgorry
British Airways flies from London Heathrow to Biarritz twice a week from April to September, ba.com
Basque Tourism: tourisme64.com
Rhune train: rhune.com, €18 return for adults
and where a recently opened boutique-restaurant–community hub offers a serenely chic place for them to shop
It is called Etxe Nami
which means “house” and “wave” in Basque and Japanese
and is situated one quick TGV stop past Biarritz in the center of Saint-Jean-de-Luz (a quaint port town that hosted the moving final scene of Eric Rohmer’s 1986 summer-holiday classic Le Rayon Vert)
The name and concept reflect the half-French
half-Japanese heritage of founder Gloria Reiko Pedemonte
a habitué of the Paris underground creative scene who decamped to the region two years ago after a decade-plus running the electronic music label Tsunami-Addiction
Inspired by memories of the country home of her Japanese grandmother
a storied early-aughts Paris canteen run by the influential magazine
Pedemonte partnered with Paris-based chef Lena Balacco to create a multipurpose space she describes as “a spiritual initiatory journey that would dive me into my deep roots.”
An adjacent garden offers ongoing workshops for the public
It all makes for an experience far richer than retail—one that feels both radically new and completely natural in a region where time seems to stand still
“The Basque country looks strangely like Japan
and they have a lot in common: The ocean and mountain landscapes
“We want to forge strong links between Japan and the Basque country by relying on crafts and tradition while combining them with modernity
The space is an invitation to travel—to understand the cultures.”
Etxe Nami, 11 Avenue Jaureguiberry, Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France; etxenami.com.
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close to 900 people have been infected by ostreopsis - a form of microscopic algae which was first spotted in the Atlantic Ocean in 2021
A new report by ANSES
the French National Health Security Agency
warns of the dangers of human contact with the algae and its toxins
Marc Rappoport, a doctor who lives in Biarritz believes he was contaminated when surfing in Saint-Jean-de-Luz
"I started getting symptoms 45 minutes after entering the water
I had nausea but continued to surf," he tells Euronews Green
my eyes were red and I was extremely tired
It lasted 48 hours and my symptoms were similar to the flu."
Whilst inhaling sea spray remains the most common mode of infection, it can also occur through skin contact and ingestion
Symptoms typically surface within hours of direct or indirect contact with the algae and tend to disappear within a matter of days
those who work on beaches - such as lifeguards - are at particular risk of infection
the Basque Committee of Lifeguards stated that they had not yet charted a significant rise in cases of ostreopsis among personnel
Workers in nearby shops and restaurants also risk airborne exposure, according to the report
"People with respiratory problems" should also be especially vigilant
according to to ANSES spokesperson Carole Castini
In 2021, multiple beaches in Biarritz
in the Basque coast were closed off as a preventive measure due to high levels of ostreopsis
monitoring ostreopsis infections proved difficult for health authorities during the pandemic
but authorities have since intensified scientific monitoring of the region's waters
Maïder Arosteguy, Mayor of Biarritz - a city which attracts thousands of tourists every year - told Euronews Green that closing beaches remains highly unlikely this year
"We have more information now than we did in 2021
We also know that if we closed off beaches
we should also close off nearby restaurants and shops because of its presence in the air."
"We were very disappointed with the French National Health Security Agency for not sending us the report before it was publicly released
We must now rush to action but were not warned before of the findings."
Arosteguy added that when ostreopsis levels reach alarming rates they will be catalogued in Kalilo
a weather app which operates in the Basque region
However, some organisations feel that monitoring by authorities could go further. NGO Surf Rider Europe - which works to preserve ocean's across Europe - has been regularly sampling ostreopsis levels in surfing zones
"Surfers travel from around the world to surf here
but they don't necessarily listen to warnings about algae but we want to ensure their safety"
Surf Rider Europe spokesperson told Euronews
Surfers risk particularly high levels of contamination "swimmers will go into the water for 10 to 15 minutes at a time, but a surfer will be in there significantly longer
A surfer will drink on average drink the equivalent of 1 cup of water per surf session."
The NGO has been raising awareness about the dangers of the algae in local surf clubs
as well as in pharmacies and in community hubs
Ostreopsis outbreaks mainly occur in summertime
The microalgae were first observed in France in 1972
and are now regularly found along the Mediterranean coastlines of France
The toxic variant of ostreopsis is named the 'ovata' strain and originates from tropical waters
Due to a combination of global warming and maritime transport movements
Ostreopsis has a brown-reddish colour but is not usually visible due to its microscopic size. But it can aggregate into floating blooms, as well as give water a metallic taste. Nevertheless, other forms of algae can also merge into blooms in the Atlantic Ocean and be mistaken for ostreopsis