FranceChevron Saint-Rémy-de-ProvenceChevron Sarah JamesSave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors we may receive compensation from retailers and/or from purchases of products through these links and partly because my dad is a creature of habit The morning routine goes a little like this: a brisk stroll up the road to the Bar Tabac des Alpilles where the owner Patrick brings out coffees (café express for my dad café creme for me) and one of the other early morning regulars hands us a newspaper to thumb through Tables and chairs outside Maison Cambillau depuis 1983 reflecting off the honey-hued stone of the old buildings—but in the morning it seems transcendental the prettiest square here with its cluster of restaurants fronted by brightly colored umbrellas and a little burbling fountain we pass by one of the bakeries for just-made croissants and still-warm baguette to take home to my mother Me and my dad drinking rosé out of plastic cups It's an idyllic idea of French village life but towns like Saint-Rémy inspire this kind of stereotypically Provençal routine it's easy to fall into the old-school rhythm here Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is backed by the Alpilles mountain range and surrounded by other equally charming villages that read like a roll-call of the perfect Provençal road trip: Eygalières The ruins of the Roman city of Glanum are found on the outskirts is where Vincent van Gogh was a patient at the Saint-Paul Asylum and where he created some of his best-known works The Starry Night was painted from the window of his room to see the room where van Gogh would have stayed A version of the article originally appeared in Condé Nast Traveller UK Saint-Rémy comes alive as the market rolls into town but it’s worth it to see the streets taken over by stalls selling everything from freshly harvested lavender and local cheese to handcrafted bags and clothes most stalls are set up and the town is yet to heave with shoppers Most of the action is centered around the many squares: On Place Favier you’ll find clothes and accessories; on Place Jules Pellissier there are fruit and vegetable stands as well as my favorite stall that sells olives and tapenades piled high in enormous bowls a craft market where makers sell jewelry and paintings runs until late The institution where Vincent van Gogh spent a very productive—if troubled—year in the late 19th century is a beautiful Romanesque structure with manicured gardens and arched walkways You can visit the public areas of the monastery where van Gogh painted 143 oil paintings and sketched more than 100 drawings the ancient city about a kilometer from the center of town ramparts were built here by Celto-Ligurian tribes destroyed in conflict; its inhabitants formed what is now Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Yet a remarkable amount of structures remain and have been excavated for preservation the team curates exhibitions on figures such as Pablo Picasso which takes place each year on Pentecost Monday sees thousands of ewes paraded through the town centre There's bull running held in the village in the summer Plus you might spot parades through town of people dressed in traditional get-up to celebrate a number of other French holidays One of the biggest draws for visitors to Provence in the summer is the call of the lavender fields The landscape turns brightest purple from mid-June to early August While you will spot lavender dotted around the fields immediately surrounding Saint-Rémy consider a road trip to find the very best fields such as at the Valensole Plateau More than just a beautiful place to visit for the weekend or even the day Saint-Rémy is a wonderful jumping-off point for the equally-as-lovely surrounding towns and villages you'll reach Eygalières with its pretty stone cafés and wonderful views from the top of a nearby hill Another gorgeous hill town is Les Baux-de-Provence set on a craggy plateau with widescreen views of the surrounding countryside where Festival d'Avignon (kind of like a French Fringe Festival) takes place each summer Provençal village life revolves around its bar tabac a contingency of locals pile in with newspapers to chew the fat over espresso and croissants the sunbaked terrace is flooded with tourists and townspeople drinking palest rosé before lunch service begins in earnest there's often excellent fish on the menu but I have to recommend the gigot d’agneau (lamb with creamy potatoes and a green salad that's pungently garlicky) which is carved from the bone right in front of you with its candy-hued lilac and orange color scheme has a roaring fire inside for days when the bitter Mistral wind blows heavily and a shady terrace on Place Favier for the more common sun-drenched days Order savory or sweet crêpes and pichets of cider and watch the world go by which is especially noted for its exquisite desserts This 17th-century hotel is set discreetly behind a buttery façade, and we named it one of the best hotels in Provence German owners Ralph Huesgen and architect Margot Staengle have restored the building handsomely: Seven bedrooms are filled with antique furniture and a wine shop next door selling all sorts of thoughtfully curated bottles with eight bedrooms and a gorgeous garden for long lunches followed by snoozes by the pool There are 10 rooms at L’Auberge De Saint-Rémy which is perhaps better known for its restaurant so it’s perfect as a base from which to explore (and ideal for rolling into bed after a meal downstairs) Tables and chairs set up for the lunchtime rush Want to be the first to know? Sign up to our newsletters for travel inspiration and tips A Guide to Korčula, Croatia Why Everyone Will Be Going to Osaka in 2025 A London Local’s Melting-Pot Itinerary for Food This New Eco-Cruise Through the Galápagos Takes Passengers On a Safari at Sea up-to-the-minute voice in all things travel Condé Nast Traveler is the global citizen’s bible and muse We understand that time is the greatest luxury which is why Condé Nast Traveler mines its network of experts and influencers so that you never waste a meal or a hotel stay wherever you are in the world Attend the lecture: Reliving the ‘last days of Van Gogh’ at the Ciné-Palace in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence on Thursday 5 June at 7pm. Intercommunal Tourist Office Alpilles en Provence Saint-Rémy-de-Provence 2025Photo: Courtesy of Hotel Capelongue; Benoit LineroSave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products featured on Vogue are independently selected by our editors There’s so much to love about Provence (and thereby the best hotels in Provence), a region in southeastern France, beguiling travelers and wedding parties as much for its glamorous riviera as for its bucolic countryside that’s characterized by its vast sweep of grassy vineyards and fragrant lavender fields punctuated by Provençal farmhouses Roman aqueducts and old chateaus dating back to the 16th century clusters of medieval villages drenched in warm sunlight sparkle from one distant hill to another So when you tire of the glamorous crowds in the French Riviera consider renting a vintage car with Provence Classics and booking a hotel in the countryside of Provence to artistic boltholes and bucolic farmhouses there’s no shortage of great hotels in the Provençal countryside Auberge La Coste is the more affordable counterpart to the luxurious Villa La Coste offering a relaxed yet stylish retreat within the same breathtaking estate it provides guests with a charming stay surrounded by vineyards and access to Château La Coste’s renowned winery and cultural offerings Auberge La Coste is perfect for travelers seeking a refined Provence experience without the splurge La Divine Comédie is an intimate boutique hotel and restaurant in the heart of Aix-en-Provence offering a unique take on French cuisine alongside stylish accommodations with dishes that balance tradition and innovation Known for its attention to detail and thoughtful approach to both flavor and presentation the restaurant provides a relaxed yet refined dining experience combining modern comforts with timeless style La Mirande is a luxurious yet inviting hotel located in the heart of Provence Housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century mansion the hotel features charming rooms that combine classic Provençal decor with contemporary amenities Guests can enjoy exquisite dining at the on-site restaurant where seasonal ingredients are used to create refined and stunning views of the surrounding landscape make La Mirande an ideal retreat for those seeking a peaceful escape while immersing themselves in the beauty and culture of Provence a luxury boutique hotel housed within a majestic 17th-century estate derives its name from the sleepy hilltop village in which it resides offering panoramic views of Mont Ventoux and the surrounding countryside guests can bask in the tranquility of the sun-drenched property from the pool featuring its own optimal views of the nearby vineyards and olive groves before pampering themselves at the Spa des Écuries The property’s two restaurants extend over two respective terraces in which bistro-style cuisine is served at La Table du Ventoux while refined gourmet offerings can be enjoyed at the slightly more elegant La Madeleine Photo: Courtesy of La Colombe d'OrSituated only 20-minutes from the seaside near the top of the road that leads to the medieval village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence and only a 10 minute walk to Fondation Maeght albeit beautifully discreet La Colombe d’Or Originally opened in 1920 as a café bar before it evolved into an inn Paul Roux would accept art from the village’s residing artists–Picasso Matisse and Chagall were among the lot–in exchange for a stay or a few meals the family-run La Colombe d’Or is helmed by Paul’s grandson where in addition to the famed Calder mobile that decorates the outdoor pool and terrace feature an impressive collection of museum-worthy works from many of the greats Photo: Courtesy of Château Saint-Martin & SpaMoving slightly inland from the Riviera a 30-minute drive will get you to the hilltops of Vence where the historic Château Saint-Martin & Spa unites the best of both worlds forming the intersection of where the sea meets the mountains breathtaking sea views are visible from nearly every terrace yet salty air is replaced with scents of thyme and lavender that waft from the estate’s fragrant gardens Château Saint-Martin & Spa seamlessly blends modern comforts and luxurious amenities–from capacious suites to decadent design with the timeless charms characteristic of its pastoral setting– from dining in one of the on-site restaurants under a shady olive grove to indulging in a spa treatment in the garden gazebo Photo: Richard HaughtonJust one hour from Marseille near Aix-en-Provence sits immersed in the 600-acre grounds of the Château La Coste wine estate and open-air art museum A gracefully-executed departure from the old-world farmhouse stays common in the region the sprawling modern estate has become a haven for contemporary art lovers the stark white walls within the 28 minimalist suites are offset by the colorful artwork that adorn them as well as the warm wood furniture that punctuates the spaces Sliding glass doors open to courtyards that overlook the endless vineyards guests have access to a multitude of sensational dining options such as a restaurant curated by renowned Argentine chef This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks The action you just performed triggered the security solution There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page The Glanum Festival returns to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence with a new programme from 17 to 19 July 2025 Le Rocher des Deux Trous (seen from the south) Adventures with Van Gogh is a weekly blog by Martin Bailey The Art Newspaper's long-standing correspondent and expert on the Dutch painter stories range from newsy items about this most intriguing artist to scholarly pieces based on meticulous investigations and discoveries Explore all of Martin’s adventures with Van Gogh here The asylum where Van Gogh lived in 1889-90 is set among some of the most beautiful scenery of Provence just beneath Les Alpilles (the little Alps) Just a couple of kilometres away is a soaring limestone crest known as Le Rocher des Deux Trous (The Rock of the Two Holes) Van Gogh included the Deux Trous in a pair of his landscapes but because it is such an unexpected feature it has sometimes been seized upon as evidence of the artist’s fragile mental state—the product of an overblown imagination the bulkier summit on the right side is Mont Gaussier Van Gogh’s The Olive Trees (June 1889) and Mountains at Saint-Rémy (July 1889) both showing the Deux Trous on the crest of Les Alpilles By good fortune the two paintings have been borrowed by London’s National Gallery, for its exhibition Van Gogh: Poets & Lovers (until 19 January 2025) They hang on adjacent walls in the final room giving a very unusual opportunity to see them together Van Gogh described The Olive Trees as a grove “with the blue hills” It was probably painted in his studio at the asylum from memory since it represents a view just a few minutes’ walk from the asylum entrance on the southern outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence was largely painted outdoors and is more topographically accurate with the closer Mont Gaussier (on the right) seen from an olive grove near Saint-Paul-de-Mausole Van Gogh was certainly not the only artist to be struck by the Deux Trous Four centuries ago an anonymous artist boldly included it in a view of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the 17th century (detail) with the Deux Trous and the monastery of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole surrounded by an olive grove Although Van Gogh never mentions the Deux Trous in his letters it is very likely that on a day when he was feeling well he climbed up to sit in one of the holes and look down on Saint-Paul-de-Mausole Saint-Paul-de-Mausole still survives, as a modern hospital for patients with mental issues. Its church and cloister are open to visitors and a room has been reconstructed to give an idea of where Van Gogh would have slept it is a delightful eight-kilometre walk (two to three hours) to the Deux Trous (height 326m) and back again Head southwards from the hospital and climb up the valley Saint-Clerg then at the top make a short detour to the Deux Trous where one can sit in the holes and look back at the hospital and the town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Near the start and end of the walk you will enjoy the olive groves which inspired some of Van Gogh’s finest landscapes Martin Bailey is a leading Van Gogh specialist and special correspondent for The Art Newspaper He has curated exhibitions at the Barbican Art Gallery Compton Verney/National Gallery of Scotland and Tate Britain To contact Martin Bailey, please email vangogh@theartnewspaper.com Please note that he does not undertake authentications Explore all of Martin’s adventures with Van Gogh here blog28 June 2024An exclusive visit to Van Gogh’s asylum garden to track down the scenes that he paintedAs Vincent wrote to his brother blog22 October 2021Another insect discovered in a Van Gogh painting—and this time it has left behind a trailShow opening in Dallas and travelling to Amsterdam reveals findings from three-year international research project into Vincent's olive grove pictures Latest UpdatesCountries Why Join?IL MagazineFree Daily E-LetterVideoOur ExpertsTestimonialsFAQsTopics Tuula Rampont is thrilled to have found her own slice of “la belle vie” and loves sharing the best of what living in France has to offer the couple packed up their home in Menlo Park California and embarked on a life-changing adventure in Neuchatel who was working at an American company at the time had accepted an offer to represent his firm in the company’s Swiss office Surrounded by the beautiful alpine countryside and French-speaking colleagues and neighbors Keith and Val were in for the ride of their lives and pared-down pace of life…the couple didn’t want to miss a minute exploring as much of Europe as possible in their free time “When you move to a different country, it’s life changing,” says Keith. “We loved it. We traveled all over Europe. We traveled to France a lot Learn more about France and other countries in our daily postcard e-letter Simply enter your email address below and we’ll send you a FREE REPORT: A Taste of France: All the Ingredients for the Good Life but not so big that it’s like a real city,” says Keith “It’s surrounded by a lot of interesting little villages to visit The couple returned year after year to vacation in Saint Remy and eventually decided they wanted to make the town their part-time home Keith says that they weren’t ready to give up their day jobs so capitalizing on their combined talents seemed like the right road to take The couple became consultants in their respective fields—Keith in finance and Val in economic development and it took several years to build up their client base to a point where they could feel comfortable making the part-time move abroad “You can work a lot part of the year,” says Keith, “and then not as much for another part of the year. And we structured things around that, so we could spend three months in France and mostly not work Through a bit of trial and error over the years Keith and Val have discovered ways to optimize their “life in Saint Remy” budget “Don’t get a place in a main tourist town,” says Keith People love long-term stays—everybody wins.” she also regularly checks rental listings on local tourist office sites Keith warns that certain indulgences can quickly run up the budget You can be very reasonable and eat like royalty.” Following these guidelines, Keith believes that a couple can live comfortably in Provence for about $2,500 a month (plus transit) Now an accomplished writer in his own right Keith has published two books about living la belle vie in France with Val: One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence and Are We French Yet the couple may slow down on the business side of things but have no plans to give up their sunny escape in southern France A 7-Day Itinerary for Alluring Occitanie, the Other South of France 5 Things to do in France’s Occitanie Region 5 Best Cities and Towns to Live and Retire in France Here we explore its most enchanting towns – and the cultural attractions they have to share Antibes Antibes port aerial panoramic view Antibes is a city located on the French Riviera or Cote d’Azur in France Posh yachts, glorious stretches of golden sand and that French Riviera vibe all make Antibes a hit with holidaymakers Wander its romantic 16th-century ramparts and narrow cobblestone streets lined with flower-festooned buildings – you’ll soon see why it appealed to artists and writers including Graham Greene whose genius is on display at the Musée Picasso in the medieval Château Grimaldi for its hidden beaches backed by millionaire mansions View Tours >> Positioned snugly – and smugly – by the Italian border between the Alpes Maritimes and the Mediterranean this lesser-known coastal corner of the Côte d’Azur has a blissful microclimate to rival its glitzier neighbours Such a balmy ambience led to a centuries-long tradition of lemon cultivation which looking up at the pastel-coloured buildings the colourful sub-tropical gardens and the museum dedicated to Jean Cocteau housed in an ancient fort View Tours >> Aerial view of medieval village of Eze | Curioso.Photography/Shutterstock this is a picture-perfect medieval hilltop village topped with the craggy ruins of a 12th-century castle The nearby Jardin Exotique cactus garden is worth the steep walk So is the sunshine-yellow Baroque church dating back to 1764 You’ll find yourself gawping at the mesmerising views of the coast the higher you climb View Tours >> Sign up to our newsletter to save up to $800 on our unique trips See privacy policy Arles On the cusp of the Camargue National Park in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region Arles is a heady blast of Van Gogh nostalgia – the artist painted in excess of 200 works around this lovely Roman town is part of the reason for Arles’ Unesco World Heritage Site status The twisting aluminium tower designed by Frank Gehry brings the city’s architecture bang up to date: one more reason to come see the place for yourself View Tours >> this former fishing port has long attracted visitors notably writers Katherine Mansfield and Thomas Mann Today it’s popular with French holidaymakers from Marseille and nearby Toulon as well as tourists in love with its sunny head to the smaller rocky bays and creeks along the coastal path licking a scoop of refreshing lavender ice cream; sample the renowned local wine cultivated in the surrounding sun-ripened vineyards; and enjoy the relaxed View Tours >> amid the rugged landscapes of the Luberon Regional Nature Park Cobbled streets and houses built of golden stone wind their way up around a mountain The village has been home to celebrated painters You can see how the village might have inspired them Highlights for visitors include the Pol Mara Museum View Tours >> who resides in a castle in the town centre flourishing gardens and landmark Tour Fenestrelle The most eye-catching historical feature is the nearby Pont du Gard frequently listed among France’s most popular attractions Uzès remains little known among tourists – visit now to make the most of its peaceful View Tours >> Part of Provencal house of small typical town in Provence grand Renaissance château and quaint stone homes Tucked in a lush valley in the Luberon mountain range it is a place for art lovers and bookworms home to a handful of galleries as well as the tombs of writers Albert Camus and Henri Bosco If you like food you’re in clover – the centre has traditional bistros and cafes and one of France’s most prestigious chefs runs the restaurant Auberge La Fenière with her daughter View Tours >> the most popular destination for those visiting the Luberon massif teetering at the top of a cliff beside an old ochre quarry It has charming 17th- and 18th-century dwellings painted in shades of the aforementioned local rock backdropped by vivid mountain vegetation and rugged panoramas that have attracted many an artist over the years Not for nothing does Roussillon have an impressive art and gallery scene The ochre for which the place is celebrated makes for all kinds of activities – cycling tours along the cliff View Tours >> ornate fountains and one of the oldest arcs de triomphe in the country this small mountain community is a must for history and art lovers It inspired some of the most celebrated works by Van Gogh who painted The Starry Night (1889) while a patient at the local asylum along with The Wheat Field series (1889–1890); numerous depictions of roses irises and forest trees; and haunting views of the hospital You can also visit the birthplace of astrologer Nostradamus before settling in at a cosy cafe for some of Saint Remy’s famously good cuisine View Tours >> On a ridge near the Nesque river canyons is another of France’s most beautiful villages Visitors are drawn by the picturesque houses as well as the magnificent rock formations and one of the oldest shrines in France These historic sights owe their fine condition to their isolated which has escaped the modifying march of centuries Venasque is famed for its production of cherries and grapes its farms reputedly producing some of the best to be found under the Mediterranean sun View Tours >> Pont Saint Benezet bridge and Rhone river aerial panoramic view in Avignon | saiko3p/Shutterstock Once a centre of the Christian world Avignon is a stronghold of chapels and churches crowned by the architectural masterpiece that is the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) Its historic buildings come down to the serene waters of the river Rhône where you’ll find the medieval bridge (and Unesco World Heritage Site) immortalised in the song ‘Sur le Pont d’Avignon’ The town is a focal point for culture and wine: its theatre and music festivals are internationally renowned and its Côtes du Rhône vineyards draw thousands of visitors every year View Tours >> What was formerly a nautical village is now a major attraction for antiques lovers hosting vibrant traditional markets every Sunday Its annual antiques fair is considered one of the best in the world drawing hundreds of dealers and making for fascinating browsing for wandering weekenders There’s plenty more to explore: classic riverside cafes lines of time-honoured shops and winding stretches of water plied by historic boats which have earned the town its nickname: ‘the Venice of Provence’ View Tours >> With its dignified 18th-century homes, sturdy medieval ramparts and verdant, hilly surroundings, Ménerbes is a fascinating place for a weekend Many famous artists and writers have made their home here Peter Mayle (author of the international best-seller A Year in Provence) and The village is renowned for its quality wines and truffles View Tours >> tranquillity – it is a government-protected environment you’ll find a hotel (and restaurants) to suit including yearly jazz and sailing festivals Come and explore this place before everyone else discovers it View Tours >>Jo Fernandez-Corugedo contributed additional reporting to this article Jessica developed a love of learning about other languages and countries which led her to Oxford University in 2010 to study French and Spanish Now working towards an MA in Translation at Surrey University she spends much of her time writing and translating She also loves to write stories as a hobby and obsessing about the novels of Jane Austen Guides & Tips Beat the Crowds with these Alternative Summer Destinations Guides & Tips Scenic Road Trips to Take From Biarritz Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in December Guides & Tips This Is Europe's Ultimate Road Trip See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in July Guides & Tips The Best European Cities to Visit in November Architecture A Brutalist Architecture Tour of Marseille See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Autumn See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in September See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in Summer See & Do 10 French Theme Parks You Should Be Visiting Instead of Disney See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in October US: +1 (678) 967 4965 | UK: +44 (0)1630 35000 tripssupport@theculturetrip.com © Copyright 2025 The Culture Trip Ltd The story of the writing of the opera ‘Mireille’ begins in a charming Provençal village a few kilometres from Saint-Rémy-de-Provence the master of the Félibrige (the preservation of the Provençal language) a poem in Provençal that won him the Nobel Prize for Literature in 1904 When the composer Charles Gounod discovered Mireille he was overwhelmed by the story of the impossible love between Mireille and Vincent saw in this work the perfect opportunity to create an opera So he decided to ask Frédéric Mistral for permission to adapt the poem into an opera and he invited him to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence: ‘Provence and I are waiting for you’ He happily agreed to entrust the libretto of Mireille to Charles Gounod who wanted to immerse himself in the culture and atmosphere of Provence when writing the opera So in March 1863 he settled in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in a coaching inn dating from the 18th century I can do anything as long as there's no noise or movement around me having become the aptly named Hôtel Gounod at 18 place de la République in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Frédéric Mistral acted as a guide in the Alpilles and showed his prestigious guest the Roman monuments (Les Antiques) Charles Gounod wrote his opera in just a few weeks And so the opera Mireille in 5 acts was born in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence The characters and landscapes in his work are simple and modest in appearance far removed from the enchantment that pervaded the operas of the period but they carry intense feelings and a strong tragic dimension The composer's aim in writing the score was to convey all the emotion he had experienced on reading the original work Charles Gounod ‘s stay in Provence left a lasting impression on his contemporaries as it was the first time in French operatic history that a composer had written a libretto on the very locations where the characters in his work were set the rich suitor her father has chosen for her Keeping the promise they had made to each other to go to Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer if something bad happened she suffers from sunstroke and arrives dying in Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-mer performed here at the Théâtre Antique in Orange Van Gogh’s Hospital at Saint-Rémy (September-October 1889) and photograph (April 2024)Hammer Museum Daily life at the asylum where Van Gogh lived for a year in 1889-90 must have been extremely tough surrounded as he was by fellow inmates who were often in an even worse condition than himself Most important of all was being able to paint but he could also escape into its large walled garden The garden of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole had been laid out in the early 19th century by Louis Mercurin The doctor held the progressive view that walking among nature was therapeutic for troubled minds With the National Gallery’s exhibition Van Gogh: Poets and Lovers (14 September-19 January 2025) coming up a small group of writers was recently invited into the garden by Jean-Marc Boulon He is the medical director of what is now a modern hospital for patients with mental health issues We were allowed in when no patients were outdoors and it was a very privileged occasion All the paintings illustrated here will be included in the London exhibition The photographs are intended to give an idea of what Van Gogh would have seen but do not represent the exact spot where he put up his easel My first strong impression was how little the garden had changed since Van Gogh’s time In his painting Hospital at Saint-Rémy (September-October 1889) the early-19th century wing at the back still stands (modernised inside) Vincent described his picture to his brother Theo as “the pines and the cedar bushes against the blue” the garden had already become overgrown by Van Gogh’s time it was enclosed by the L-shaped men’s blocks and two tall stone walls providing a secluded haven for the inmates Vincent explained to Theo on his arrival that as “life happens above all in the garden He added in the same letter: “Since I’ve been here the neglected garden planted with tall pines under which grow tall and badly tended grass intermingled with various weeds Van Gogh’s Undergrowth (July 1889) and photograph (April 2024)Van Gogh Museum Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation); © Martin Bailey Van Gogh had always loved ivy, which he felt created a striking, albeit sombre mood. In his time it grew up the trunks of the pines in the asylum garden, as it does today, although it is no longer allowed to spread as much. Writing about a similar painting to Undergrowth Vincent described “thick tree-trunks covered with ivy Van Gogh’s Trees in the Garden of the Asylum (September-October 1889) and photograph (April 2024) Van Gogh sometimes used the twisted tree trunks to frame his compositions as in Trees in the Garden of the Asylum (September-October 1889) which almost seem to dance across his painting would have offered most welcome shade during the hot Provençal summers Van Gogh’s Long Grass with Butterflies (April-May 1890) and photograph (April 2024)National Gallery London; © Martin Bailey In Long Grass with Butterflies (April-May 1890) a trace of a path can just be made out in the upper left corner but the emphasis is on the lush springtime vegetation Vincent modestly described the scene as “a nook of greenery which seems to me to have some freshness” This painting was done a year after his arrival when he had got to know every corner of the garden—and in all the seasons Van Gogh’s Tree Trunks in the Grass (April-May 1890) and photograph (April 2024)Kröller-Müller Museum Vincent wrote to Theo on 29 April 1890: ”Work is going well, I’ve done two canvases of the fresh grass in the park, one of which is extremely simple”. Tree Trunks in the Grass was the “simple” one He described the tree trunks painting as “a field in the full sunshine with yellow dandelions” He beautifully captured the dramatic patterns on the bark of the closest pair of pines While painting Tree Trunks in the Grass Vincent had written to Theo: “I’ll be out of doors there I’m sure that the desire to work will devour me and make me insensible to everything else and in a good mood not without consideration but without dwelling on regrets for things that might have been.” Beside these words he drew a small sketch of the picture he was working on in the garden A letter from Vincent to Theo from 4 May 1890 with sketch of Tree Trunks in the Grass and related commentsVan Gogh Museum NOTE TO READERS: Adventures with Van Gogh will be taking a summer break blog12 April 2024‘That truly is nature’: the inspiring story behind four spring scenes Van Gogh painted just weeks after mutilating his earThe optimistic April paintings were produced at an extremely challenging time for the artist blog30 June 2023In the spotlight: the only collector who bought a Van Gogh during Vincent’s lifetimeAnna Boch is celebrated with an ambitious exhibition the Musée Estrine in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence will be presenting the exhibition Baigneuses et Arlésiennes: Les femmes d'André Marchand (Bathers and Arlesiennes: The Women of André Marchand) The page you are looking for does not exist the Musée Estrine will be exhibiting its ‘Je ne serai jamais cubiste : un siècle féminin’ collection Cover Stephanie Hui takes us to Provence (Photo: Courtesy of Stephanie Hui) Stephanie Hui takes us to Provence (Photo: Courtesy of Stephanie Hui) Provence has long captivated globetrotters with its blend of old-world charm and modern pleasures. This summer, we tapped social media influencer and Gen.T honouree, Stephanie Hui to give us an insider’s tour of her most beloved spots in the region Known for her impeccable style and wanderlust-inducing Instagram feed Hui has a knack for uncovering the chicest hidden gems From picturesque wineries and charming boutiques to mouthwatering restaurants her Provençal favourites will transport you straight to the South of France Whether you’re planning a romantic getaway or a family adventure Hui’s curated guide is sure to inspire your next luxury escape (PS: It’s giving joie de vivre.) See also: Inside Aman Summer Palace, where Feiping Chang hosted an imperial-Chinese-themed birthday Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 2 of 3 Lourmarin market Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 3 of 3 Lourmarin market Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) Lourmarin market Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) “I explored the vibrant market in Lourmarin that takes place every Friday morning You can start shopping at 8am and the vendors start packing up at 1pm I browsed the stalls filled with seasonal fruits and vegetables Provençal herbs and many other local specialities home goods and other knick-knacks you might want to bring home as a souvenir Lourmarin is such a picturesque village with its charming streets and historic architecture it was such a wonderful start to the morning.” Photo 1 of 4 Inside Château de Sannes in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 2 of 4 Château de Sannes in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 3 of 4 Château de Sannes in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 4 of 4 Inside Château de Sannes in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) Inside Château de Sannes in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) “We spent the afternoon going on a scenic wine tour at Château de Sannes in Provence its history and the work required to produce wine We went for a walk through the vineyards and toured around the winery followed by wine tasting—their rosé is by far my favourite The gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside accompanied by the majestic fairytale atmosphere made it a very relaxing and peaceful experience.” a must-see village in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 2 of 4 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence a must-see village in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 3 of 4 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence a must-see village in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 4 of 4 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence a must-see village in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) Saint-Rémy-de-Provence a must-see village in Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) “What truly sets Saint-Rémy apart aside from its charming streets filled with colourful shops and architecture Here you can follow the remarkable Van Gogh Trail a scenic walking route through the landscapes that fuelled Van Gogh’s artistic inspiration during his stay at the nearby Monastery Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum Van Gogh’s masterpieces are placed along the route to align with the actual scenes where he sat and painted his works It’s quite unreal to compare his art and real life— truly a must-see village in Provence!” located to the east of Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 2 of 3 Gorges du Verdon located to the east of Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 3 of 3 Gorges du Verdon located to the east of Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) Gorges du Verdon located to the east of Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) “Take a day trip to the Gorges du Verdon located a couple hours north of the French Riviera and east of the Provence region It is a stunning valley famous for its turquoise-coloured water picked up a couple of sandwiches and spent the day sun-tanning and swimming It’s the perfect addition to any South of France trip!” “Classified as one of the most beautiful villages in France Roussillon is best known for its distinctive red cliffs and red and yellow architecture whose streets are dotted with little cafés all located in this unique technicolour environment.” Provence (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 2 of 2 Restaurant La Prévôté (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue “We had such a memorable dining experience here It was a fixed menu and I really enjoyed the surprise of each course—everything was so delicious and the attention to detail that goes into each dish didn’t go unnoticed The restaurant is also located in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue another picturesque town in Provence that is built on and around the Sorgue River grand fountains and the river that runs through the heart of town are truly a sight to see and are the perfect backdrop for a wonderful walk before or after dinner.” Photo 1 of 3 In and around Marseille (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 2 of 3 In and around Marseille (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui)Photo 3 of 3 Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui In and around Marseille (Photo: courtesy of Stephanie Hui) “When in Europe, shopping is a must! We went to Marseille on our last day to experience a bit of the city life and the locals there recommended Jogging, a luxury concept and fashion store on 107 Rue Paradis. You can find pieces from brands like Jacquemus Paco Rabanne and more— it’s such a hidden gem for shopaholics like myself!” The Local Edit: Celebrity jeweller Payal Shah's guide to New York City Inside Aman Venice, the luxury hotel where Kylie Jenner enjoyed a summer holiday in Italy The Local Edit: Yardbird and Family Form founder Lindsay Jang's guide to Hong Kong As a security guard, it is your duty to unmask the culprit as soon as possible so that serenity returns to Saint-Rémy. Van Gogh’s pictures only occasionally come onto the market and The odd one is sold privately through a dealer usually very discreetly—but in a typical year less than a handful are publicly auctioned Here we record the ten most expensive Van Gogh paintings that have sold at auction Van Gogh’s Fields near Les Alpilles (November 1889) where Van Gogh lived for a year in 1889-90 In the early 2000s the painting was owned by the couturier Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé Van Gogh’s Landscape under Stormy Sky (April 1889) The meadow is full of springtime flowers with a strolling couple on the left side Irises (May 1889) which was probably the first painting done by Van Gogh at the asylum has had an unusually chequered recent history In 1987 it sold at Sotheby’s for $54m ($150m in today’s money) going to the Australian businessman Alan Bond He faced financial problems and was unable to pay so ownership remained with the auction house In 1990 Sotheby’s then sold the Irises to the J Paul Getty Museum in California in a private deal Although the price paid by the museum has never been disclosed It is now among the highlights of the Getty’s collection Van Gogh’s Poppies and Daisies (June 1890) going to the Chinese entertainment company owner Wang Zhongjun Wang is also an amateur artist who enjoys painting flower still lifes After the auction he commented that the final sum was “slightly lower than I expected” Wang’s purchase is another indication of how the Van Gogh market has shifted dramatically in the past few years—from North America and Europe to East Asia (China It is believed that ownership may now reside with other Chinese buyers Van Gogh’s The Avenue of Les Alyscamps (November 1888) In 2003 the Van Gogh landscape had sold at Christie’s for $12m but when it returned to auction in 2015 an anonymous buyer paid $66m—more than five times as much It too is believed to have gone to a Chinese collector Van Gogh’s Wooden Cabins among the Olive Trees and Cypresses (October 1889) Wooden Cabins among the Olive Trees and Cypresses went for $71m in 2021 A striking and little known landscape painting it was done in the countryside outside the asylum of the London art advisors Beaumont Nathan Van Gogh's Self-portrait without a Beard Self-portrait without a Beard soared to $72m (in today’s money $140m) when it was auctioned back in 1998 Van Gogh’s self-portraits are highly prized and only two others remain in private hands This one was particularly personal for Vincent since he painted it in the asylum as a gift to his mother for her 70th birthday It is believed to be hidden away in a very private European collection Van Gogh’s Labourer in a Field (September 1889) Labourer in a Field sold for $81m in 2017 it was inspired by the view from Van Gogh's bedroom set beneath one of the artist’s powerful suns Like most Van Goghs that come onto the market Van Gogh’s Portrait of Dr Paul Gachet (June 1890) Portrait of Dr Paul Gachet held the record as the most expensive Van Gogh for over 30 years As long ago as 1990 it fetched $83m at Christie’s then the highest auction price for a work by any artist this means it remains the most expensive Van Gogh It is undoubtedly among Van Gogh’s finest portraits Dr Gachet was a key figure in Vincent’s life caring for him after the artist shot himself in Auvers-sur-Oise so the identity of the sitter adds greatly to its interest Van Gogh’s Orchard with Cypresses (Verger avec cyprès) (April 1888) In 2022 Orchard with Cypresses sold at Christie’s coming from the collection of Microsoft co-founder It is one of the series of spring blossom paintings which Van Gogh made soon after his arrival in Arles It now stands as a record price for a Van Gogh painting until the next great masterpiece comes along This one is his own copy of the original version with a yellow background which is now at London’s National Gallery Sunflowers has proved to be an astonishing investment it would certainly be worth several hundred million dollars acquired by New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art in 1993; and Girl against a Background of Wheat (June 1890) bought by casino boss Steve Wynn in 1999 and now owned by hedge fund manager Steven Cohen all the works covered in our survey were painted in the last two years or so of Van Gogh’s life when he was working in Provence or the village of Auvers-sur-Oise outside Paris It is these late pictures that fetch the mega sums an indication that the main demand has shifted away from Europe REVISED: Originally published in April 2022 this blog post was updated with new sales information on 19 March 2025 blog12 November 2021Four Van Goghs go for $161m in one evening in New York—double their Christie’s estimatesFor the artist who failed to sell during his lifetime there is now a surge in the market for Vincent’s late paintings blog11 November 2022A Van Gogh record: landscape of orchard with cypresses soars to $117m at Paul Allen auctionPrevious top price was $82m for a portrait of Dr Gachet blog10 March 2023Half of Van Gogh’s most expensive paintings have sold to Chinese collectorsThe burgeoning growth of the East Asian market pushes up prices for the artist’s work Gayle Smith Padgett and her husband Ralph spent many years flirting with France before as Gayle writes in a memoir she penned about the experience they decided to finally “shack up” with the beautiful country and “make things official.” was a mathematician by trade when the duo met on the tennis courts of a local club in Arlington Virginia—a shared hobby that would follow them across the borders of two European countries Although Gayle had previously worked for a period in Germany she was taken by surprise when Ralph was offered a job as a cost analyst for the U.S government in Heidelberg—based just one hour from the French border in the picturesque setting for the well-known operetta the pair were married in Old Town Alexandria with their honeymoon put on hold while they settled into the rhythms of life on the edge of two fascinating European cultures half-timbered towns like Obernai and Ribeauville Cycling along the fabled Route des Vins (Alsatian wine route) was an opportunity for Gayle and Ralph to discover even more of the captivating vistas of northeastern France After placing their honeymoon on the back burner for a little over a year the not-so-newlyweds sketched out an itinerary for southern France with a stop in the whitewashed town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer This stunning seaside treasure sits directly on the Mediterranean Sea right at its convergence point with the mighty Rhone River and soaked up author Peter Mayle’s famous love story about the sun-soaked region Ralph ventured off on birding expeditions in the protected wetlands around Saintes-Maries collectively known as the Camargue Natural Park The next chapter in the couple’s budding romance with Provence was soon to be written in the stars… quite literally the once beloved muse of Vincent Van Gogh - who crafted his legendary “The Starry Night” painting while gazing up at the skies above the town from his lodgings at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole asylum—Gayle and Ralph fell head-over-heels in love with the town Remy had to offer “in such a compact space and just steps away from Les Alpilles (the little Alps mountain range),” says Gayle With the welcoming aura of the historic center—lined with cafés and iconic squares— pastoral walks among the local vineyards and olive orchards along with the Wednesday farmers market with its picture-perfect stalls and sunny the pair were decidedly “smitten” by this new French suitor As it became apparent that their love affair with the region had only deepened with every visit the couple began to wonder if they should make a solid commitment to their long-term beau a pool home with an attentive and caring landlord and within walking distance to the town center—the duo has called St and pet-sitting (for a few felines with big personalities) been warmly welcomed into the local expat community and established a fine appreciation for French cuisine Gayle has given a special name to their fine dining on-a-budget escapades… Destination Déjeuners Restaurants that “shine” on multiple levels “Checking out these promising establishments may involve driving an hour each way or taking a week-long trip for lunch prepared by a renowned chef.” As retirees living their dream in Provence Gayle and Ralph have put their commitment to the test and plan to continue their love affair with this charming corner of southern France The Best Places to Live in France From $2,000 a Month 5 Places to Live in France; 2 to Avoid Please upgrade your browser to improve your experience Explore the just-revealed full list of 654 MICHELIN-Star restaurants in France 2025 The 68 new Stars for the 2025 edition appear in red no one would dispute that these are hard times we're living in But if there is one place on this troubled Earth where people's joie de vivre will not be dampened You could even go so far as to say it's a treasured space where harmony and civilization are alive and well in the spirit of celebrating all that is wonderful about eating great food with people you love here is a full run-down of every MICHELIN-Star restaurant in France This year, there are two new Three-Star restaurants for France: Hugo Roellinger's Le Coquillage in Cancale and Christopher Coutanceau in La Rochelle These two exceptional chefs—Hugo Roellinger a "chef-fisherman"—both have strong ties to the sea and it shows throughout their cuisine Advocates of sustainable fishing and fierce opponents of waste they share one key trait: each of their dishes is a spellbinding ode to the ocean true happiness is to be found in the fresh air of the countryside In a testament to the dizzying heights reached by chefs in France over 20 establishments have been awarded a Star soon after opening many of whom trained in top kitchens in France and around the world already have that first professional experience in a MICHELIN-Starred restaurant under their belts Autonomy and a spirit of adventure are the hallmarks of 2025's crop of new Two-Star restaurants, too. In addition to those already mentioned, Guillaume Roget's Ekaitza and Diego Delbecq & Camille Pailleau's Rozó are taking things to the next level on account of the strength of their talent and passion Vailly (74): Frédéric Molina au Moulin de LéréMargencel (74): Sechex-Nous - New Hero Image: L'Inattendu - Domaine de Locguenole The Mexican capital takes center stage alongside the culinary world's top talents The Golden State's capital welcomes the culinary world's top talents Six states join the illustrious selection with the region's signature flair and flavors ​13 new restaurants receive their first MICHELIN Star ​Three new establishments are awarded the MICHELIN Green Star Marseille is a crossroads of culture and cuisine shaped by 2,600 years of migration and maritime trade From its Greek founders to waves of immigrants from Italy each community has left an indelible mark on the city’s dynamic food culture based on what's freshest at his local farm Her fully Italian wine list is farmer first and blends perfectly with rustic Italian cooking The general manager of the nearly 20-course tasting menu can make time stand still The Sunshine State just got hauter with these bright new MICHELIN Stars The beverage director of the Tampa fine dining favorite is reimagining the classics to expert effect Four restaurants from the Florida MICHELIN Guide selection call Mills Market home A hub of cultures that look to the sea and the land Croatia is a place where tradition (including the culinary tradition) is still very much alive Discover The MICHELIN Guide Buenos Aires & Mendoza 2025 showcasing newly Starred restaurants and exciting Bib Gourmand additions Non-members can add the privileges at checkout through our 30 day free trial By continuing I accept the Terms & Condition and Privacy Policy. I would like to receive Newsletter from MICHELIN Guide Save lists of your favorite restaurants & hotels This year, there are two new Three-Star restaurants for France: Hugo Roellinger's Le Coquillage in Cancale and Christopher Coutanceau in La Rochelle These two exceptional chefs\u2014Hugo Roellinger a \"chef-fisherman\"\u2014both have strong ties to the sea and it shows throughout their cuisine Autonomy and a spirit of adventure are the hallmarks of 2025's crop of new Two-Star restaurants, too. In addition to those already mentioned, Guillaume Roget's Ekaitza and Diego Delbecq & Camille Pailleau's Roz\u00f3 are taking things to the next level Vailly (74): Fr\u00e9d\u00e9ric Molina au Moulin de L\u00e9r\u00e9Margencel (74): Sechex-Nous - New Please enable JS and disable any ad blocker It goes without saying that France is a hotspot for tourism. Between the wonderful Alps, the beaches of the French Riviera, and the culture/cuisine of Paris there is no shortage of things to see and do during your stay and experience what small-town France is really like Whether it is sampling cheese and wine in France's vast agricultural regions or hiking in one of its many national parks there is a laid-back town around every corner of the country for you to stop off at either before or after your day begins Tucked along the Mediterranean coast near the Spanish border, Collioure is a quiet seaside town that exemplifies life in southern France. Its blend of French and Catalan influences can be seen in the local cuisine and architecture a blend that is sure to keep both your eyes and your palate happy The town's historic center is dotted with pastel-colored houses and cafes that are sure to spice up your walk through town Pay a visit to the 13th-century Château Royal or take a stroll to the 17th-century Church of Notre-Dame-des-Anges Collioure’s location between the Pyrenees and the sea means that both beaches and mountains are nearby providing a relaxing setting for a quiet day by the water while the surrounding vineyards in the foothills offer scenic hikes and opportunities for wine-tastings once a favorite spot for painters like Henri Matisse and André Derain adds a definite artistic flair and compliments the laid-back vibe of the town as well Just 40 kilometers from Paris, Senlis makes for a great escape from the big city with its medieval history and small-town French charm. Its cobblestone streets lead visitors to a mix of Roman ruins, Gothic architecture dates back to the 12th century and stands as a stunning example of early Gothic design that just screams for a photo shoot at all angles most notably the "Ramparts on Senlis." For those more interested in art history on top of ancient Rome will teach you more about the town’s layered history Visitors can enjoy a relaxed afternoon exploring the town’s quiet squares or venturing into the nearby Chantilly Forest Senlis provides a calm atmosphere for those looking to escape the hustle of Paris Nestled in the heart of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur Lourmarin is a quintessential southern French village known for its vineyards and olive groves along with its many well-preserved historic buildings The village’s centerpiece is the Renaissance-style Château de Lourmarin which gives a look back in time to the region's longstanding history along with having a collection of beautiful gardens on its grounds Lourmarin also serves as a gateway to exploring the Luberon Regional Park which is notable for its scenic trails in the verdant countryside A collection of historic buildings within the park is also open for exploration as well as some interesting natural rock formations created over eons of wind and water movement throughout the area Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is another idealistic small town in the mountainous Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur including the impressive remains of the Glanum archaeological site Saint-Rémy mizes France's ancient past with present-day conveniences make a fascinating backdrop to the town’s storied past Art enthusiasts, on the other hand, will appreciate Saint-Rémy’s connection to Vincent van Gogh This famous artist spent time here and was inspired by the surrounding beauty One look at the area for yourself and you will quickly understand why The town’s many parks and gardens are serene spots for relaxation and inspiration while the nearby Alpilles Mountains are the perfect place to embark on a scenic hike Perched high on a cliff above the Mediterranean Èze is a medieval village where many come to relax by the water With its commanding position over the French Riviera Èze is often called an "eagle’s nest," and its many panoramic viewpoints make it a standout destination for those traveling through southern France The village’s Jardin Exotique is one of its highlights a wonderfully maintained botanical garden filled with exotic plants right on the coastline such as the 12th-century Chapelle de la Sainte-Croix an ornate chapel on top of a large cliff overlooking the water Though close to the bustling cities of Nice and Monaco The nearby Nietzsche Path provides a scenic hike from the beach to the village offering you a connection with nature as well as history Located along the Seine estuary Honfleur is a coastal town in Normandy known for its beautiful harbor slate-fronted houses and eateries where you can watch the boats come and go as you enjoy a meal Timber-framed buildings and other nearby landmarks like the 15th-century Saint Catherine’s Church complement the downtown area near the ocean famously captured by painters like Claude Monet and Eugène Boudin still resonates in the town’s small galleries and art museums nature lovers can explore the Normandy countryside or take a walk along the beach at Butin Other idyllic spots for a walk along the waterfront include Honfeluer's iconic public gardens Once a popular seaside resort for the British aristocracy, Dinard retains its elegant charm with grand 19th-century villas overlooking the Atlantic Ocean are perfect for a relaxing day by the water while the town's mild climate and ocean views continue to make it a popular vacation spot for travelers from around the world A walk along the Promenade du Clair de Lune provides a great way to get acquainted with the area and its various public parks on/near the waterfront. Dinard’s location near other beautiful places like Saint-Malo and Mont Saint-Michel makes it an ideal base for exploring the region in more depth The town also hosts an annual British Film Festival bringing filmmakers and filmgoers alike to Dinard in early October As well as being a functioning town, Provins is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site near Paris Best known for its extensive collection of still-standing medieval architecture Provins is perhaps most notable for its fortified walls and ancient watchtowers The town played a crucial role as a major trading center during the Middle Ages and its historic significance is still evident today A walk through Provins reveals iconic landmarks such as the Tour César a 12th-century keep that offers its visitors some of the best views of the town including historical reenactments and falconry displays also provide a fun glimpse into what life was like many centuries ago Visitors should also make a point of exploring Provins’ underground tunnels which were once used for storage and potential escape routes in case of an attack This mysterious attraction also contains a gallery where tours are regularly held France is home to an array of laid-back small towns that provide a perfect escape from the busier, tourist-heavy cities like Paris or Marseille Whether you're spending time along the Mediterranean coast touring the lush countryside of Provence or tucked away in the historic landscapes of Normandy and Île-de-France these towns offer all who come a chance to slow down and experience the country's rich cultural and historical heritage at a relaxing pace photos and original descriptions © 2025 worldatlas.com The Ruban des Senteurs boutique is located in the heart of the village of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence ShareSaveCommentLifestyleTravelJust Opened: The Charming, Intimate Provence Hotel Domaine De ChalamonByLaurie Werner Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights Laurie Werner is a New York-based writer covering travel and food.Follow AuthorJun 19 02:29pm EDTShareSaveCommentThe 16th century Domaine de Chalamon proceeding through a regal canopy of century old plane trees this former 16th century bastide surrounded by magnificent gardens offers all of the historic character and serenity a traveler comes to this famed French region to find One of the bedrooms at Domaine de Chalamon famed for restoring and renovating many of the most important properties in the region having worked on it previously for the former owners with his father Bruno understated style from the slightly rough textured limestone stairs to pastel color schemes of celadon green soft blue and pink with rattan chairs and ceramics as accents The doors are always open to the outdoors and guests gravitate there to tables facing the gardens shielded by pink umbrellas The French gardens themselves are a work of art created by Alexandre Lafourcade’s mother Dominique 30 years ago and renowned as one of the most beautiful in the region-a series of six interlocking areas with labyrinths of clipped box trees laurel and olive trees with streams interspersed Walks through the garden are a popular activity as are yoga classes within them The gardens also surround the pool and tennis court about a mile away from Domaine de Chalamon is extremely popular with locals who spend long lunches catching up while sampling charcoal grilled aubergines lime marinated fish and the catch of the day with Provençale sauce Bastide du Mourre in Provence's Luberon Biousse and Foucher are extremely busy expanding the collection. Several weeks after opening Domaine de Chalamon, the two also soft opened Bastide du Mourre 19 room inn hilltop near the Luberon village of Oppède with stunning views of vineyards and the Luberon forest beyond Wellness is the focus here with a three-pronged approach of nutritional guidance based on naturopathy bootcamp drills and intense hikes and treatments using local plant-based ingredients The cuisine is also health-based and typically Provençal with dishes such as cod with eggplant caviar and vegetable jus and quinoa with artichokes and olives the hotel is also ideally positioned for visits to some of the most beautiful Luberon villages: Menerbes In FocusOn the Van Gogh trail in Arles where the secrets (and lies) of the artist’s world are revealedAs a major new Van Gogh exhibition opens at London’s National Gallery, Michael Hodges takes a train to Arles to retrace the famous painter’s steps and discovers a twisty tale where fact merges into fiction and brings a surprising portrait of the artist to life turbulent genius overwhelmed by mental illness an easy pilgrimage to such a culturally portentous place Arles has burst out of its medieval walls since Van Gogh’s time and the Hotel Carrel is an empty space on Rue Amédée Pichot destroyed on 25 June 1944 by US bombers seeking the railway bridge over the Rhône But I walk along the same tree-lined avenue through the Roman necropolis shown in The Alyscamps where Van Gogh and Gauguin worked together and the city’s alleyways are still a warren of dun-coloured walls It is down one such alleyway that I find the Fondation Vincent van Gogh Arles a glass and concrete cube interjected into the ancient architecture which will host the Musée d’Orsay’s Starry Night Over the Rhône from 1 June to 8 September The quayside where that famous work was painted is only a short walk away along the river I’m paces away from the sites of some of his greatest masterpieces; the Café de la Gare immortalised as The Night Café and what was briefly Van Gogh’s home on Place Lamartine captured in The Yellow House with a coal-black locomotive steaming by in the background It was here that Van Gogh prepared a guest room for Gauguin by hanging what is now the National Gallery’s Sunflowers above the bed The site is now the drinks terrace of La Civette Arlesienne – three beers on tap no obvious artists in residence – but the railway bridge survives graffitied yet pregnant with the possibility of Van Gogh’s train puffing back at any moment is the scene of Van Gogh’s Entrance to the Park in Arles The park is now a roundabout and the council mistakenly places the sign indicating the site of the picture 10 minutes away in the Jardin d’Été during this trip I encounter a lot of this mislabelling and obscuration a café makes an initially convincing claim to be the one in Café Terrace at Night but a local tells me it’s a fake version created in 2000 by three local businessmen since prosecuted for tax offences Van Gogh happily indulged his own artistic licence – the Plough constellation that hangs over the river in Starry Night Over the Rhône would have been behind him in the night sky Much of his legend of being a miserable loner is overplayed Van Gogh welcomed company and often painted his Arles friends He took the dashing army officer Paul-Eugene Milliet (subject of the fabulous portrait The Lover) across the fields to the abbey of Montmajour a ruined medieval hulk of crusader castle proportions it’s 26 minutes by bus from Avenue George Clemenceau and I find a place where I know Van Gogh was happy about the pleasure of stealing figs at Montmajour There is misery if you want to seek it out The morning after he cut his ear Van Gogh was treated in Arles hospital Pause and consider him as you go through the gateway he would have entered in pain and trepidation and the courtyard has been planted to give an indication of what he would have seen as he worked on Garden of the Hospital in Arles Van Gogh travelled the 25 kilometres to St Remy by cart in May 1889 as we get closer the twisted forms of the Alpilles mountains come into view so recognisable from works like Olive trees with the Alpilles in the Background I fill up on Provencal nosh at the Bar Tabac then walk up the Avenue Vincent Van Gogh opposite stations of the cross marked out on the way with reproductions of his extraordinary fever-dream landscapes his Calvary – the Saint-Paule-de-Mausole asylum where he suffered so much and which is partly open to the public Here the obscuration continues: “Van Gogh’s bedroom” is in the wrong wing and the window from which I’m told he painted the Alpilles is the wrong window this was Van Gogh’s world and there are glimpses of him in it still Van Gogh: Poets and Lovers at The National Gallery is now open and runs until 19 January 2025 More aboutVan GoghVincent van GoghFrance travelProvenceJoin our commenting forumJoin thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies {"adUnitPath":"71347885/_main_independent/gallery","autoGallery":true,"disableAds":true,"gallery":[{"data":{"title":"Starry Night.jpg","description":"Van Gogh Vincent (1853-1890) for Indy Travel from The National Gallery","caption":"Vincent van Gogh created ‘Starry Night Over the Rhône’ when living in the city of Arles in Provence Vincent van Gogh created ‘Starry Night Over the Rhône’ when living in the city of Arles in Provence Michael Hodges takes a train to Arles to retrace the famous painter’s steps and discovers a twisty tale where fact merges into fiction and brings a surprising portrait of the artist to life The afternoon light dappled in gold flecks filters through the newly-green leaves on the trees lining the the road known as 'la petite route de Maillanne' heading back into Saint-Rémy-de-Provence We’re parked on the verge and I hop out to capture that image that has inspired so many painters over the years The spring mistral winds have abated for the moment This is the town that Van Gogh spent time convalescing in and in spite of his great difficulties a local resident and guide and the charms of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence unfold in the smart shops and patisseries the wineries and nearby farms and in the many personalities we encounter The large variety of confiture, biscuits and honey at la Roumaniere in nearby Robin are made under direction of a group supporting and empowering disabled people in the community and you’re able to watch how they are made at the small factory The dinky jar sizes means you can bring one for everyone who likes jam on toast at home He may not have the a spot on the swanky main street a seasoned pâtissier runs his mini lab and soon to be private baking class He is very popular and his creations would please the Queen of Hearts from Alice of Wonderland Off-beat and testing the norms of Parisian symmetry in baked goods mille-feuille with new-season strawberries and he kindly sells me a bag of Cacao Barry chocolate chips You will be greeted by a sugar coated bust and a macron the size of two grown men’s heads when you enter On market day last week in the Alpilles town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence flyers promoting the presidential candidate Emmanuel Macron were being handed out by a chic blonde who looked like his wife With the neighbouring Var department the heartland of Marine Le Pen’s National Front there was more than a little concern that Sunday’s French presidential election could go the wrong way but while the relieved citizens of Saint-Rémy toasted Macron’s victory in the Bouches-du-Rhône department with champagne the town’s property market is already on the move — and will be bolstered by a number of buyers who have been sitting on their hands “Every time there is an election in France things slow down then pick up,” Exclusive: New book describes harrowing period in which he produced most beloved works Details of the most harrowing period in the life of Vincent van Gogh including the names of the men who shared his year of confinement in an asylum in the south of France and his mental collapses when he tried to poison himself with his own paints It was a period of anguish but extraordinary creativity for Van Gogh in which he produced some of his most dazzling and beloved works now in museum collections across the world – all based on brief outings the views through the barred window of his room and many days spent painting in the asylum gardens The author and journalist Martin Bailey, an expert on Van Gogh’s life has traced the admissions register and other records from Saint-Paul de Mausole a small asylum on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence for the period when Van Gogh was admitted as a private patient The register shows Vincent van Gogh Bailey traced the 18 male patients including an elderly priest who was described as constantly smashing up furniture and crockery Bailey was able to match many of the names with death certificates and other evidence and details of medical conditions and minimal treatment in a later book by the asylum director would spend the next half century in the asylum and die there in 1932 whom he called “my companions in misfortune” with no treatment and nothing to fill their days except the next stodgy meal eaten with a spoon because of the risk from knives and forks he described the long nights: “One continually hears shouts and terrible howls as of animals in a menagerie.” following the collapse of a proposed artistic partnership with Paul Gauguin said the register was key to discovering previously unknown details of the artist’s time there including the fact that neither his friends from Arles Theo Van Gogh was kept informed by the stream of illustrated letters from his brother but also news from the asylum director of Van Gogh’s three serious collapses over the year when the paints he tried to swallow had to be taken from him locked room instead of his usual bright bedroom and separate studio on an upper floor wrote: “On several occasions he has attempted to poison himself either by swallowing colours that he used for painting which he had taken from the boy while he was filling his lamps.” His brother recently married and expecting his first child in Paris Bailey said: “I now appreciate quite what a terrifying environment it must have been for Van Gogh “That makes it even more astonishing that he was able to create some of his finest and [most] optimistic paintings in such a situation I am also convinced that it was his art which enabled him to survive.” It had been suggested that Van Gogh might have been sent to an asylum in Marseille that had more than 1,000 patients which Bailey believes would have destroyed the artist View image in fullscreenVan Gogh’s Women Picking Olives Photograph: Metropolitan Museum of ArtThe Saint-Paul asylum which remains part of a psychiatric hospital second and third-class accommodation at different prices Conditions were improving under a new director from an earlier stage when an unpublished official report condemned neglect incontinent patients lying on straw mattresses described as reduced to manure despite evidence of mental collapse following his previous brief breaks from the asylum He yearned for new spring landscapes to paint blamed the company of his fellow patients for his previous and longest collapse The final medical note described Van Gogh as “cured”. He travelled to northern France to begin again he died within two months – 36 hours after shooting himself in the stomach while out painting in the midsummer fields “There have been suggestions that his death was an accident or even manslaughter “The evidence of his mental state in the previous year makes it incontrovertible that he took his own life his strength of will and his art that he survived that year in which he was able to create so much.” Being in pain and delving into the process of making art is such a brutal way to make value of the process that we call expression But what is art at the end of the day but just a soul throwing up its ache in multiple forms and colours This form of thought is what encourages being in pain it's what makes the artist magnify the act of self-harm can be seen in pieces like 'The Scream of Nature' Knowing that Van Gogh suffered undermining from his community during his life knowing that he swung between reality and deep along with most of history's most prolific artists constantly found himself in the circle of pain and he used it as a tool to bring beauty and life to this world Van Gogh got stuck in a wagon of denial that dug him deeper and deeper the older he grew He brought this struggle out in his paintings Art critics revelled and decided to name Van Gogh's unique style as a revolutionary technique that would change the landscape of painting forever Van Gogh's 'Irises' was so shiny that the flowers seemed wavy from the viewer's perspective pain and sorrow jumping towards you from the canvas Van Gogh's 'Starry Nights' were moving rainy waterfalls in the sky as if he looked at them with teary eyes and portrayed that from his eyesight to us showing the ache that breaks the time and place notion the dimensions of the 3D effect making the masterpiece come to life 'The Starry Night' is a misunderstood piece of art and then I paint my dream." This quote sums up these two works They are images straight from the canvas that is the dreamworld Dreams in their vague sense are the manifestation of our feelings about real life events while sleeping and Van Gogh's paintings depict his reality The impasto technique consists of mixing oil paint with the finger as it leads to make textures out of simple things and gives shape to all of the angles presenting lively movement This technique eventually adds a sculptural value which might give the viewer the impression that an artwork is moving when the viewer moves forwards or towards the painting This is the technique that was mastered by Van Gogh moving impression that the technique provides Considering Van Gogh's paintings come from the 19th century it makes one wonder how our perception of art has changed over the years how art's effects and its other visualisation tools continue to evolve and advance as time progresses Art goes beyond geometrical senses and artistic tools It truly is amazing how oil paint thrown onto a canvas can portray such tangible and visualised sorrow The colours choice comes from the sense of creativity and spontaneity When the paintings are so purely honest and sensual it certainly does speak to everyone's heart make up one's own reality by depicting madness or simply makes one accept one's reality through accepting reason there is hope for a treasure." We identify aspect by the existence of its opposite and art will be depicting life's beauty for as long as humanity is alive I wonder if Van Gogh had a perspective that related to Sufism He was brutally amazed by the natural beauty of the world that surrounded him appreciating the beauty of the universe has been the main aspect of the body of religious practice worshiping God within its divine manifestations The beauty that shines and glows in front of your face like diamond in a starry night The most genius technique has been used in 'The Starry Night' the swinging of the brush on each star that gives motion to the sky It all makes the viewer think this painting is representing a calm night The movement of the emotions felt in Van Gogh's work is like a windmill of colours the stars melting in circles like a Sufi dancer swinging across the floor swaying with ease like an Andalusian lady floating in flamingo perhaps it was his own tears that he was seeing in the sky that night when he painted the beloved masterpiece and it should be broken as far as I'm concerned and human being cannot bear the pain of being in a "creator” mode They may get recognition the opposite of what Van Gogh had but the sorrow that comes with the act of creation is often times too devastating for the human heart to handle Perhaps that is the very reason we as humans are alive and on this earth will continue to live in our hearts and minds forever Van Gogh is to Provence what Provence is to his work: an inspiration and partner for life the master first set down his bags in Arles before heading to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence fascinated by these luminous landscapes bathed in tranquillity and in love with their sunshine that never fades… From the sun to sunflowers, Van Gogh adored Provence and fell head over heels in love with the unique shades of yellow that light up his paintings and warm the soul. During his stay in Arles in 1888 you can follow in his footsteps in the town thanks to a walking itinerary crossing the sites that inspired him where the painter was taken care of after cutting off his ear or the Van Gogh Foundation where his works strike up an inspiring dialogue with contemporary creations inspired by the artist immortalized in Café Terrace at Night before heading to Place Lamartine and the famous Maison Jaune where he set up his studio the Musée Réattu harbours a letter from Van Gogh to Gauguin relating his everyday life in Arles Genuine emblems of his masterful brushstrokes, Irises and Lilacs were painted by Van Gogh in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence while he was interned at the Saint-Paul de Mausole hospice He also painted the garden he saw from his window immortalizing the final moments of an intense life The Interpretation Centre at the Musée Estrine – an official Musée de France – decrypts the life You can enjoy taking the « Vincent » footpath starting out from the museum and crossing the landscapes that inspired Van Gogh This delightful walk is dotted with reproductions of his finest works Une publication partagée par Van Gogh: The Life (@vangoghthelife) le 9 Août 2019 à 10 :09 PDT Metrics details The Thannhauser Collection of the Solomon R represents an important survey of European avant-garde art production during the late 19th and early 20th centuries Among the works included in this collection are three paintings by Vincent van Gogh These examples each exhibit some degree of surface alteration resulting in obscured color and spatial relationships as well as being the subject of questions regarding authenticity in the case of the two earlier pictures Initial examination involved documentation of the brushwork and distribution of colors under magnification Infrared (IR) and ultraviolet (UV) photography provided additional information on the surface coatings an in-depth scientific investigation of the ground and paint layers with a special focus on fading colors and altered surfaces was carried out non-invasively with point and macro-X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy and multi-channel visible spectrum four-light imaging followed by the analysis of cross sections and dispersed pigment samples by means of optical microscopy transmission Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and Raman spectroscopies and scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM/EDS) as well as high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA) and pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (Py-GC/MS) Results indicated that both the brushwork and artist's palette of all three paintings are consistent with data previously reported for other Van Gogh works and with pigments described in the artist’s letters to his friends and his brother Theo evidence of biodeterioration and paint alteration phenomena was found on Roadway with Underpass while specific pigments such as eosin red—historically sold as geranium lake—were detected in areas of Landscape with Snow and Mountains at Saint-Rémy that display severe fading In addition to assisting the development of a suitable plan for the conservation of the 1887 painting this study traces the progression of Van Gogh’s practice over three years critical to his artistic development discusses the historical context in which each masterpiece was created identifies the range of materials and techniques used and addresses authenticity questions by providing a comparison with results of scientific analysis from other similar works Paintings by Vincent van Gogh analyzed in this study c Mountains at Saint-Rémy (Montagnes à Saint-Rémy) Several leading questions regarding the materials composition and related degradation processes determined the primary scope of this study All three paintings exhibit some degree of surface alteration including fading of certain red organic lake pigments—phenomena that are discussed and referenced below Landscape with Snow has lost some of the bold effects of Van Gogh’s signature use of complementary colors such as pink next to green and yellow adjacent to purple The painting no longer retains its original vibrant juxtapositions of hues due to the fading of photosensitive pigments bright pinks and purples can be observed through cracks in the surface Mountains at Saint-Rémy is characterized by an overall blue palette that appears to be missing some of the red hues until it was removed during a major conservation treatment in 2018 brownish-gray layer trapped in the troughs of impasto Presumably applied to cover abraded areas from an earlier restoration this layer penetrated regions of exposed ground and saturation by the varnish accentuated its appearance these coatings rendered the painting dark and brooding closer to Van Gogh’s earlier Dutch period paintings the surface treatment and its subsequent degradation shifted the global tonality of the composition from cool to warm No confirmation exists that Theo received the pictures through Vincent’s friend Christian Mourier-Petersen or that he followed through on his brother's request to have them delivered to the Levaillant de La Boissière family; yet From this group of pictures that Thannhauser acquired in the late 1920s Justin Thannhauser ultimately donated Roadway with Underpass to the Solomon R gave Landscape with Snow to the Guggenheim in 1984 Justin Thannhauser likewise donated Mountains at Saint-Rémy a work whose provenance and authenticity were not in question following a promised gift and extended loan an in-depth technical study of the three Van Gogh paintings at the Guggenheim involved visual documentation and scientific analysis of the surface coatings and degradation materials and their supports by means of a variety of instrumental techniques This research aimed to trace the progression of Van Gogh’s practice over three years as he moves from Paris to the South of France; to discuss the historical context in which the three masterpieces were created; to identify the materials and techniques used; and to compare the results of scientific analysis to data obtained from similar paintings by the artist as well as to his correspondence with friends and family Special attention was devoted to the investigation of the current appearance of the works as a result of the fading of red organic lake pigments as well as in relation to the paintings’ treatment history including early linings and cleaning interventions Based on the results of pigment analysis and spectral reflectance measurements acquired across the surface a digital reconstruction of Landscape with Snow was produced to provide viewers with a recolorized visualization of the appearance of this work prior to the fading of the original pink and purple tones the comparative study of Van Gogh’s materials was crucial to shed light on issues of authenticity concerning Roadway with Underpass and Landscape with Snow the examination of the paintings’ surfaces as well as the analysis of cross sections and identification of various degradation issues helped inform a suitable treatment strategy to clean the 1887 work The campaign of technical examination and scientific analysis performed on Van Gogh’s Roadway with Underpass and Mountains at Saint-Rémy relied on in-situ non-invasive investigations with portable instruments and removal of microscopic samples followed by micro-invasive analysis with benchtop equipment in the Department of Scientific Research (DSR) of The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met) Initial inspection of the three paintings in the Guggenheim’s conservation laboratory involved visual documentation of the brushwork non-invasive analyses using handheld X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy and multi-channel visible spectrum four-light imaging were carried out to gather information on the color palette in a selection of representative locations of the three works the paintings were transferred to The Met for macro-XRF (MA-XRF) analysis Removal of fourteen microscopic scrapings and samples for cross sections led to examination with optical microscopy and micro-invasive analysis with a variety of instrumental techniques including transmission Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and Raman spectroscopies as well as scanning electron microscopy coupled with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM/EDS) with the main goal to identify the pigments and extenders located in the ground and paint layers Scrapings were also investigated with high-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection (HPLC-PDA) and pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry (Py-GC/MS) for a detailed characterization of some of the red lake pigments present in the paint mixtures as well as the varnish and remnants of a brownish-gray material that covered the surface of Roadway with Underpass Experimental conditions for the analytical techniques employed are reported below IR photography IR reflectography and transmittography were conducted using an Opus Instruments equipped with an InGaAs detector with sensitivity in the 900–1700 nm range An 850-nm long-pass IR filter was used with a Rodagon 150 mm f/5.6 lens The Osiris SWIR imager uses a linear 512-pixel sensor within a precision-geared mechanism that assembles a final 4096 × 4096 pixel image file Images were post-processed and optimized within Adobe Photoshop UV photography UV-induced visible fluorescence photography was captured with a Sony Alpha 7RII mirrorless digital camera with Kodak Wratten 2E (UV-blocking) and Peca Products 918 (UV-IR-blocking) filters over the camera lens The paintings were irradiated with two UV Systems TripleBright II fixtures with low-pressure mercury fluorescent UVA lamps with a peak emission at 368 nm A UV Innovations Target-UV was used for white balance and post-processing was performed in Adobe Lightroom following the Capture Workflow by UV Innovations Small-aperture visible reflection spectroscopy Analysis was carried out for Landscape with Snow using a X-Rite i1 Pro 1 spectrophotometer that samples the visible spectrum from 380 nm through 730 nm at 10-nm interval and bandpass and a 3.5-mm circular aperture X-radiography Radiography was carried out using a Picker Hotshot AXR X-ray system by Associated X-Ray Corporation and 90 s for Roadway with Underpass; 45 kV and 45 s for Landscape with Snow; and 45 kV Captures were digitized and stitched at the Northeast Document Conservation Center (NEDCC) The scanner utilized GE Rhythm Acquire version 4.0 and Rhythm Review version 4.0 to capture and then process the files Stitching and other post-processing work was performed with a combination of PTGui and Photoshop softwares Point XRF Analysis was performed using a handheld Bruker Tracer III-V™ energy dispersive XRF analyzer with Peltier-cooled advanced high-resolution silver-free Si-PIN detector with a 0.2-μm beryllium (Be) window and average resolution of approximately 142 eV for the full width at half maximum of the manganese (Mn) Kα line The system is equipped with changeable filters and a rhodium (Rh) transmission target with maximum voltage of 45 kV and tunable beam current of 2–25 µA The size of the spot analyzed is approximately 3 × 4 mm by positioning the instrument at a ≈1-mm distance from the artwork’s surface MA-XRF The three paintings were mapped using a Bruker M6 Jetstream® instrument with the X-ray source operated at 50 kV and 0.5 mA A 700-μm spot size and a 700-μm step size were used for the three works and 120 ms/pixel for Mountains at Saint-Rémy The spectra were processed using the Bruker M6 Jetstream® software FTIR Analysis was carried out in transmission mode with a Hyperion 3000 FTIR spectrometer equipped with a mercury cadmium telluride (MCT) detector Each sample was crushed in a Spectra Tech diamond anvil cell and all the materials contained in it were analyzed as a bulk through a 15× objective Spectra were collected in the 4000–600 cm−1 range Spectra were interpreted by comparison with published literature and library databases available at The Met’s DSR Raman Analysis was conducted using a Bruker Senterra Raman spectrometer equipped with an Olympus 50× long working distance microscope objective and a CCD detector and two holographic gratings (1800 and 1200 rulings/mm) provided a spectral resolution of 3–5 cm−1 The output laser power was kept between 10 and 25 mW while the number of scans and integration time were adjusted to prevent damage from overheating and according to the Raman response of the samples examined SEM/EDS Samples for SEM/EDS analysis were mounted as cross sections in methyl methacrylate resin (Technovit® 2000 LC) then polished using Micro-mesh® cloths to expose the stratigraphy Analysis was carried out with a FE-SEM Zeiss Σigma HD equipped with an Oxford Instrument X-MaxN 80 silicon drift detector (SDD) as well as EDS elemental spot analysis and mapping were performed in high vacuum with an accelerating voltage of 20 kV The solution was evaporated under a gentle N2 stream 10 μL of methanol and 10 μL of 0.01 M aqueous oxalic acid (the latter acting as a chelating agent for any metal elements) were thus added the solution was stirred and dried under N2 stream 20 μL of methanol were added again to the vial and the solution was placed under N2 stream to evaporate the acid further; the same procedure was repeated once again In order to account for the possible presence of indigotin 2 μL of dimethylformamide were then added and heated at 50–60°C for a few min after which 7 μL of 1% aqueous formic acid and 9 μL of methanol were also added to the vial The solution was then centrifuged at 3500 g for 10 min and the supernatant injected into the HPLC system The analytical system used consisted of a 1525 micro binary HPLC pump and a Rheodyne 7725i manual injector with 20-μl loop (Waters Corporation An XBridge BEH Shield RP18 reverse-phase column (3.5-μm particle × 150 mm) equipped with an XBridge BEH Shield RP18 guard column (3.5-μm particle Massachusetts) was used with a flow rate of 0.2 mL/min An Upchurch ultra-low volume pre-column filter with a 0.5-µm stainless steel frit (Sigma-Aldrich Missouri) was attached in front of the guard column The mobile phase was eluted in a gradient mode of (A) 1% formic acid in high purity water and (B) a mixture of methanol and acetonitrile (1/1 The solvent gradient was as follows: 90% (A) for 3 min Missouri) was dissolved in a mixture of methanol and water (1/1 v/v) prior to injection into the HPLC system Py-GC/MS Analysis was conducted on an Agilent 5973N gas chromatograph equipped with a Frontier PY-2020iD Double-Shot vertical furnace pyrolyzer fitted with an AS-1020E Auto-Shot autosampler The GC was coupled to a 5973N single quadrupole mass selective detector (MSD) Samples of 30–50 µg were weighed out in deactivated pyrolysis sample cups (PY1-EC80F Disposable Eco-Cup LF) on a Mettler Toledo UMX2 Ultra microbalance Samples were then either pyrolyzed without derivatization or derivatized with tetramethyl ammonium hydroxide (TMAH) before pyrolysis Derivatization took place in the same cups as follows: 3–4 µl of 25% TMAH in methanol (both from Fisher Scientific) were added directly to the sample in each cup with a 50-µL syringe and The interface to the GC was held at 320°C and purged with helium for 30 s before opening the valve to the GC column The samples were then dropped into the furnace and pyrolyzed at 550°C for 30 s The pyrolysis products were transferred directly to a DB-5MS capillary column (30 m × 0.25 mm × 1 µm) with the helium carrier gas set to a constant flow of 1.5 mL/min The GC oven temperature program was: 40°C for 1 min; 10°C/min to 320°C; isothermal for 1 min The Agilent 5973N MSD conditions were set as follows: transfer line at 320°C electron multiplier at approximately 1770 V; scan range 33–550 amu the detector was turned off until 3 min to avoid saturation by excess of the derivatizing agent and solvent Data analysis was performed on an Agilent MSD ChemStation D.02.00.275 software by comparison with the NIST 2005 spectral libraries A summary of the results obtained from the technical examination and scientific analysis of the three Van Gogh paintings under study is reported in Table 1 These data are presented and discussed in further detail in the following paragraphs Though residing in Paris in 1887, Van Gogh made frequent trips to the suburb of Asnières in order to paint in nature. He would typically stay at the family home of his friend Émile Bernard (1868–1941), a young painter he mentored. Roadway with Underpass (Fig. 1a) depicts one of the many now-extinct poternes that circled Paris and regulated entry into the city The masonry structure of the tunnel and surrounding foliage in the painting are nearly identical to images on postcards that predate alterations made in the early 20th century A woman walks in the shadows of the arched underpass moving away from the viewer toward a glint of light on the other side chimney stacks peek out through the dense vegetation Roadway with Underpass was executed on a 2-mm thick which would have been inexpensive and easy to carry en plein air Van Gogh typically used carton with both smooth and coarse preparations; in this instance the painting’s preparation layer was found to be a characteristic two-layer ground visual features and early photographs of Roadway with Underpass in addition to Thannhauser gallery labels affixed to the reverse suggest that the painting was already mounted on an auxiliary support of approximately 7-mm laminated cardboard by the late 1920s A significant tear or bend in the main carton support at left of center may have been the motivation for the mounting which would have rendered the painting more stable for transport This attachment to a secondary support appears to have resulted in overall flattened impasto and abrasion of thinner areas of paint application and c UV light microphotographs of cross section VG4 from Roadway with Underpass the bottom and top layers of the ground preparation while the red arrow shows the location of the sulfur- Elemental distribution maps of Roadway with Underpass acquired by MA-XRF From top left to bottom right: lead (Pb Lβ) At this time, Van Gogh was known to frequently use a perspective frame when plotting out his landscapes. In the present work, however, no clear indication of the use of this device exists. Instead, beneath the image, dilute linear strokes of red lake are visible (Additional file 3: Figure S3) delineating the architecture and the angles of the roadway The composition was originally defined with thin washes and thinned oil drawing lines and sections of the masonry were left in reserve to establish the base color of the stone structure Dilute red drawing can also be seen in other Paris period paintings notably Montmartre: Windmills and Allotments (1887 One possible explanation of this result may lie in the fact that air-borne dirt and organic residues from the en plein air technique remained on the work’s surface Storage in high humidity conditions may have then contributed to the biodeterioration of these materials over time the painting may have been varnished without completely removing these extraneous surface residues thus locking them beneath the thick varnish coating the gray-brown layer was no longer saturated by the coating and did not compromise the overall appearance as it had previously Having been determined to constitute a permanent alteration to the painting surface Landscape with Snow had the misfortune of emerging on the art market at a time when numerous Van Gogh fakes were being produced; therefore an in-depth technical examination and scientific analysis was carried out with the primary goal to uphold or challenge the work’s authenticity IR reflectogram of verso of canvas for Landscape with Snow detail of center right (rotated 90° counter­clockwise) showing the stamp for Van Gogh's preferred Parisian colorman a BSE image, b polarized light, and c UV light microphotographs of cross section S4 from Landscape with Snow, i.e. ground preparation and paint. In the BSE image, 1 and 2 indicate, respectively, the bottom and top layers of the ground preparation, while the red arrows show the location of the fossilized marine organisms a Polarized light and b UV light microphotographs of cross section S7 from Landscape with Snow revealing a bright pink layer with a yellow UV-induced autofluorescence whose superficial portion likely faded upon exposure to light a scraping of pink paint underneath some purple strokes in the field compared to that of a reference eosin sample d Visible spectrum of the main peak detected in the chromatogram of sample S5 Van Gogh skillfully achieved the patchy coverage of the snow through linear dashes and thick strokes of impasto dragged in all directions across the surface leaving large areas of bare ground exposed which are visible under the bands of colored grasses in the field The graphite lines of a perspective frame could not be readily identified either with the naked eye or under magnification although the artist claimed to have continued his use of this device select trees were left in reserve and the sky was painted around them while others appear to have been painted wet-in-wet was only used in the two roofs of the buildings in the background X-ray elemental maps of two different blue paint samples taken from the sky of Landscape with Snow as analyzed with SEM/EDS in a cross section S3 ground preparation and greenish-blue paint and ultramarine blue; and b cross section S4 Detail of the upper left quadrant of Landscape with Snow and b a digital recolorized visualization that approximates the original appearance of the faded pinks are visible in the foreground of Mountains at Saint-Rémy the paint handling comprises stylized swirling forms and systematic parallel lines adjacent to long undulating veins Although primarily built up with thick impastoed paint intermittent skips reveal the ground layer which is rendered rosy beige by the adjacent blue and green tonalities when the painting was mounted on a standard-size French stretcher Elemental distribution maps of Mountains at Saint-Rémy acquired by MA-XRF a Detail of Mountains at Saint-Rémy juxtaposed with b an overlap of the bromine (Br Kα) and chromium (Cr Kα) distribution maps acquired by MA-XRF The gray arrows in the latter image indicate some of the locations where eosin red (Br) and an iron-containing pigment (Fe) The examination and analysis of three paintings from Vincent van Gogh’s s mature years helped to address authenticity questions and to shed light on the possible presence of ongoing degradation phenomena The in-depth investigation of the surface coatings and degradation materials and their supports provided crucial information to substantiate art historical research to aid in the understanding of materials and techniques and to clarify the current aesthetic appearance of these works which have undergone conservation treatments and natural deterioration the extensive scientific analysis supports the design and development of preservation protocols as well as appropriate conservation treatment strategies The Wacker forgeries of the late 1920s were often based on the artist’s major subjects While Roadway with Underpass and Landscape with Snow are relatively minor paintings within Van Gogh’s oeuvre they document the artist’s movements in France at critical junctures in his career the analysis by a combination of non-invasive and micro-invasive tools revealed the use of materials and techniques analogous to contemporaneous and indisputably authentic Van Gogh works is the close correspondence with the support and ground of View of a Butcher’s Shop a painting made in the first few days following the artist’s arrival in Arles The detection of a stamp from one of Van Gogh’s preferred Parisian colorman shop applied directly to the original support of this 1888 work but hidden beneath an early lining canvas Other salient discoveries included the characterization of faded organic lake pigments which caused a shift of bright pinks to pale pink and white and of mauve to gray in Landscape with Snow and Mountains at Saint-Rémy This identification led to a digital reconstruction of Landscape with Snow providing viewers with a recolorized visualization to approximate the appearance of the original palette prior to the fading of the pink and purple tones the characterization of a non-original varnish and potassium-containing layer between the ground and paint layers and of metabolite products of a certain genus of fungi—yielding a brownish appearance to the surface and likely indicating biodeterioration—contributed to the development of a suitable treatment for this painting All data generated during this study are either included in this published article or available from the corresponding author upon reasonable request Scanning electron microscopy with energy-dispersive X-ray spectroscopy High-performance liquid chromatography with photodiode array detection Pyrolysis-gas chromatography/mass spectrometry Van Gogh’s ‘Garden of the Asylum’: genuine or fake Comparison of the fading and surface deterioration of red lake pigments in six paintings by Vincent van Gogh with artificially aged paint reconstructions Proceedings of the 14th Triennial Meeting of the ICOM Committee for Conservation Meeting in Den Haag An investigation of organic red pigments used by Vincent van Gogh (November 1885 to February 1888) Chicago: The Art Institute of Chicago; 2016 Van Gogh’s Irises and Roses: the contribution of chemical analyses and imaging to the assessment of color changes in the red lake pigments Digitally reconstructing van Gogh’s Field with Irises near Arles part 2: Pigment concentration maps “Paintings fade like flowers”: pigment analysis and digital reconstruction of a faded pink lake pigment in Vincent van Gogh’s Undergrowth with Two Figures Molecular fluorescence imaging spectroscopy for mapping low concentrations of red lake pigments: Van Gogh’s painting The Olive Orchard Rapid evaluation of the debromination mechanism of eosin in oil paint by direct analysis in real time and direct infusion-electrospray ionization mass spectrometry New insights into the fading mechanism of Geranium lake in painting matrix The issue of eosin fading: a combined spectroscopic and mass spectrometric approach applied to historical lakes Degradation process of lead chromate in paintings by Vincent van Gogh studied by means of synchrotron X-ray spectromicroscopy and related methods Degradation process of lead chromate in paintings by Vincent van Gogh studied by means of spectromicroscopic methods and detection of different crystal forms of the chrome yellow pigment Artificial aging of model samples of co-precipitates of lead chromate and lead sulfate Chromium speciation methods and infrared spectroscopy for studying the chemical reactivity of lead chromate-based pigments in oil medium with an illustrated catalogue of the forgeries Sammler und Markt: Unbekannte bilder van Vincent van Gogh Marketing modernism: the Thannhauser Gallery and its clients The Thannhauser Gallery: Marketing Van Gogh Vincent van Gogh: the letters; the complete illustrated and annotated edition Spectral imaging using a commercial colour-filter array digital camera Preprints for the ICOM-CC 14th Triennial Meeting Practical total appearance imaging of paintings Imaging artwork in a studio environment for computer graphics rendering The coccid insect dyes: HPLC and computerized diode-array analysis of dyed yarns Thannhauser Collection: French Modernism at the Guggenheim New York: Guggenheim Museum Publications; 2018 Amending the Record: Vincent van Gogh’s Roadway with Underpass and Landscape with Snow Unravelling the spatial dependency of the complex solid-state chemistry of Pb in a paint micro-sample from Rembrandt’s Homer using XRD-CT Production of mycotoxins on artificially inoculated building materials Microbial deterioration of cultural heritage and works of art—tilting at windmills Van Gogh letter 569: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Van Gogh letter 579: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Advances in computer-assisted canvas examination: Thread counting algorithms In: 37th Annual Meeting of American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works High-resolution non-invasive 3D imaging of paint microstructure by synchrotron-based X-ray laminography A multidisciplinary approach to the study of the brightening effects of white chalk ground layers in 15th and 16th century paintings Van Gogh’s painting grounds: quantitative determination of bulking agents (extenders) using SEM/EDX Van Gogh letter 593: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Van Gogh letter 590: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Digital color reconstructions of cultural heritage using color-managed imaging and small-aperture spectrophotometry Multi-spectral imaging of a van Gogh's self-portrait at the National Gallery of Art In: Society for imaging science and technology conference proceedings; 2001 Van Gogh letter 595: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Van Gogh letter 789: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Van Gogh letter 805: Jansen L, Luijten H, Bakker N, editors. Vincent van Gogh - The Letters. Amsterdam & The Hague: Van Gogh Museum & Huygens ING; 2009. Version: October 2020. http://vangoghletters.org Download references The authors are grateful to Charlotte Hale for many helpful discussions and for assisting in setting up the paintings for MA-XRF analysis generously shared her deep knowledge of Van Gogh’s work and was an invaluable research partner Paintings Conservator at the Van Gogh Museum also facilitated comparative study and analysis and the authors likewise appreciate the additional research support from Neinke Bakker coordinated many facets of this Van Gogh study at the Guggenheim Anna Cesaratto for her contribution to this project during her time at The Met working in the NICS program This research was made possible by the Network Initiative for Conservation Science (NICS) Support for NICS was provided by a grant (31500630) from The Andrew W Departments of Curatorial and Conservation as well as part of SEM/EDS analysis and data interpretation and wrote the manuscript draft with inputs from all other authors EB conducted some of the SEM/EDS analysis and data interpretation NS performed HPLC-PDA analysis and data interpretation LMS acquired the MA-XRF data and contributed to the data processing and interpretation SAC contributed to the MA-XRF data processing and interpretation as well as to the interpretation of micro-analytical data RB carried out visible reflection spectroscopy and multi-channel visible spectrum four-light imaging and created the digital recolorized visualization of Landscape with Snow All authors edited the manuscript and approved the final version The authors declare that they have no competing interests Springer Nature remains neutral with regard to jurisdictional claims in published maps and institutional affiliations Polarized light microphotographs of cross sections VG1 (top) and VG3 (bottom) from Roadway with Underpass X-ray elemental maps acquired by SEM/EDS of a portion of cross section VG4 from Roadway with Underpass The red arrows indicate the presence of two sulfur- It is possible that the migration of these elements from the adjacent lead white and iron-containing earth paints may have contributed to the formation of the layers observed showing dilute red underpainting of the tree trunk and grainy effect created by the ground (photograph taken after the 2018 varnish removal) Detail of Roadway with Underpass before (right) and after (left) cleaning Polarized light microphotographs of cross sections S2 (top) (A) Raman and (B) FTIR spectra of sample S2 from Landscape with Snow Materials identified include lead white in the form of hydrocerussite Elemental distribution maps of Landscape with Snow acquired by MA-XRF X-ray elemental maps and BSE image acquired by SEM/EDS of a portion of cross section S7 from Landscape with Snow revealing that the latter consists of a bromine-containing pigment precipitated onto an aluminum-based substrate mixed with lead white and an abundance of minute ultramarine blue particles unless otherwise stated in a credit line to the data Download citation DOI: https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-021-00489-1 Anyone you share the following link with will be able to read this content: a shareable link is not currently available for this article Sign up for the Nature Briefing newsletter — what matters in science France is to art what Switzerland is to watches from the massive Louvre to tiny galleries and street artists on the legendary Left Bank but what adds depth to your appreciation of French art (call it ‘layers’ from an artistic perspective) is to visit the sites where the artists painted their masterpieces and Matisse had the waterfronts of the Med and we’ll defend this opinion with dueling paintbrushes matches Provence as a great muse for artists the masters found the sublime light unique to the region: warm and inviting with rolling vineyards and dotted by medieval villages Let’s start in Paris because, hey, Paris is a delight. Fly in to Charles de Gaulle and spend the night at our favorite, Hotel Crillon on Place de la Concorde It’s just a short journey (3-1/2 hours) from Paris via the TGV train (200 mph) to Aix-en-Provence (Tampa Tip—book ahead if you’ve brought a mini-champagne (or two) and some munchies you’re set to savor the land of the Impressionists: Provence let’s start with Paul Cézanne who lived there infatuated with the nearby Mont St.-Victoire He was so passionate about the mountain that he painted during a severe thunderstorm that sent his easel flying with his hat on a peg and a wine glass on the desk where Cézanne sipped vermouth to chat with his friend where Vincent van Gogh and Paul Gauguin were roommates until they had a fight after which Van Gogh famously chopped off his ear They lived at 2 Place Lamartine (immortalized as Van Gogh’s Yellow House) which was bombed during WWII You can enjoy an espresso at Café du Gare next to the train station both for the artistic history and spectacular scenery you’ll pass fields of sunflowers with faces the size of pie pans But even better are the vast fields of lavender stretching for miles and tossing their scent into the air like new-mown hay Remy is a delight (Tampa Tip–Arrange your schedule for the Wednesday street market mistral wind or not) and you can easily spend several days exploring the charming boutiques and galleries But don’t dally on the tree-lined roads: the best is yet to come a monastery built in the eleventh Century and later the asylum where Vincent van Gogh spent his last years in the late 1880s He wandered the grounds and the nearby fields looking for inspiration and found it in spades with a dozen of his best works coming from his self-admitted exile You are welcome to stroll the grounds and inner courtyard of St-Paul but it is still a psychiatric health facility and guests are asked to respect the tranquility Several rooms of the building have been converted into a museum to Van Gogh and the regional government of Provence has placed signs showing Van Gogh’s artwork in each spot where he painted it To be able to view his masterpiece and see the same fields and mountains that he saw lets you “look over his shoulder.”  Your next stop is the hilltop-town of Gordes, where Marc Chagall and his family lived in the 1930s before fleeing World War II to America. (Tampa Tip–If you stay, the must hotel is Airelles Gordes on the hillside overlooking Provence.) In the evening, sit at an outside table in Gordes on the main square and you’ll drift back to the innocent time when we didn’t know enough to number our wars. Your last stop has absolutely nothing to do with Impressionist masters, but it’s worth the jaunt to Avignon, where you can catch the TGV back to Paris. The Pont-du-Gard is a mighty Roman aqueduct bridge built over three arch tiers in the 1st Century. Bring your camera: it offers spectacular views from every angle.  Now that you’ve seen the Provence of the French masters, doesn’t it make you want to break out the canvas, oils and brushes? Dabble just a bit?  Chris and Rhea Caswell are award-winning travel writers, regular contributors to Tampa Magazine, and confessed Francophiles. Vincent van Gogh's painting Fields near the Alpilles (1889) is going on show for the first time ever, initially at Christie’s in London it is expected to fetch around $45m when it comes up for sale at a May evening auction in New York Van Gogh's powerful landscape has always been hidden away in private collections will reveal that among the owners were the couturier Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé Van Gogh set up his easel just five minutes’ walk from the gate of the asylum on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, where he stayed for a year after mutilating his ear. Walking among the wheatfields and olive groves he could leave behind the stifling atmosphere of the mental institution to explore the atmospheric Provençal countryside Vincent described the Christie’s painting in a letter to his brother Theo in simple terms as “a wheatfield with a background of lilac mountains and a dark tree” A solitary almond tree with bare branches dominates the scene Its stark outline suggests that Van Gogh was inspired by Japanese prints a row of emerald olive trees can be made out These run along the road that climbs through a pass in the Alpilles and there is a giant tree just to the left of the olive grove almost towering over the hills (Van Gogh often exaggerated the height of isolated trees in his landscapes) Although Van Gogh represented the limestone hills as lilac in his painting possibly because he used some red pigment that has since faded—which so often happens with the artist’s reds The contorted hills have been delicately painted The spot where Vincent made his painting has been identified by the Van Gogh Museum’s senior researcher Teio Meedendorp as an open area that is now known as the Parc d’Amour He points out that the large rock in the right foreground probably came from an ancient quarry Aerial photograph of the area around the asylum of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole—Van Gogh was standing near the red spot and the farmhouse in the Fields near the Alpilles painting is circled while three peaks in the Alpilles lie further away towards the horizon in the centre The biplane aircraft wing appears on the left Photo: E four months before completing Fields near the Alpilles Van Gogh had been working at the entrance to the quarry He was suddenly struck down by a mental attack and ate some of his paints although his throat was very badly swollen For four days he was in agony and unable to eat and even a month later he still found it painful to swallow and remained mentally disturbed Van Gogh was eventually able to resume work in early September and by the end of the month his doctor allowed him out into the countryside to work Fields near the Alpilles was painted in November Van Gogh’s Wheatfields in a Mountainous Landscape (November-December 1889) Credit: Kröller-Müller Museum A few days after painting Fields near the Alpilles he tackled a similar view The tree trunk on the far left in the Christie’s painting appears prominently in the Kröller-Müller work in blue Van Gogh’s Portrait of Joseph Roulin (February-March 1889) Credit: Kröller-Müller Museum Roulin had given Vincent great support after the ear incident Although Roulin had moved to Marseille just one month later As it had been on 4 January 1889 that Roulin had convinced the Arles hospital to release Vincent the gift sent exactly a year later was probably a token of gratitude Roulin ended up with about a dozen paintings by Van Gogh and sold them in around 1900 most likely through an agent to the Parisian dealer Ambroise Vollard The first known collector who acquired Fields near the Alpilles was Paul Pompidor Little is known about the 20th-century history of the painting but it was eventually bought by Saint Laurent and Bergé The painting had a special meaning for the couple since Bergé had bought a pair of beautiful farmhouses on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Saint Laurent was also an admirer of Van Gogh producing a line of YSL designs with sunflower and iris motifs The couple sold Fields near the Alpilles in around 2003 before their deaths (Saint-Laurent in 2008 and Bergé in 2017) the almond trees had already shed their leaves when he painted Fields near the Alpilles in November But just three months later they would become the first fruit trees to blossom In February 1890 Van Gogh was excited to see their white fragrant blossom; a sign that spring was on the way Van Gogh’s Almond Blossom (February 1890) Credit: Van Gogh Museum Vincent found an almond tree near the asylum (but not the one in Fields near the Alpilles) and got to work portraying several branches against a sky-blue background He decided to make it a special gift to Theo and his new wife Jo to celebrate the birth of their first child and his godson—named Vincent One can hardly imagine a painting that is more full of life Fields near the Alpilles is now on display at Christie’s in London until 1 March The painting will then tour with other highlights of the auction to Taipei and Hong Kong where it will be on display before Christie’s 20th Century evening sale on 12 May blog27 May 2022What lies behind the twisted forms of Van Gogh's mountain landscape at the Guggenheim in New York?Vincent painted this powerful work just outside the walls of his asylum blog14 October 2022Van Gogh landscape coming up for auction should fetch a record price of over $100mThe orchard blossom scene, from the collection of Microsoft founder Paul Allen, is being sold by Christie’s Martin Bailey's Starry Night: Van Gogh at the Asylum (paperback edition of the original 2018 publication) Credit: Frances Lincoln/Quarto I travelled to the southern French town of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence We had heard that the local archive had acquired a register of the asylum It turned out to be a large volume bound in mottled paper recording the arrival of hundreds of patients Register of admissions (1876-92) at the asylum of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole on the outskirts of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence Credit: Archives Municipales spotting the arrival of the asylum’s most illustrious patient It recorded that Vincent van Gogh had been born in Holland and had travelled from nearby Arles on 8 May The date of Van Gogh’s arrival had long been known but we quickly realised that the newly unearthed register should make it possible to identify the artist’s fellow patients Entries in the register of admissions at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole in 1889 including Van Gogh’s name (indicated in red) Credit: Archives Municipales Until now most biographers of Van Gogh have given comparatively little attention to the impact that living among these disturbed people must have had on the artist the refectory and the garden—and even when alone in his bedroom he was unable to escape the screams and howls The asylum, established in the former monastery of Saint-Paul-de-Mausole, would have been nothing remotely like a modern psychiatric hospital At that time little was known about mental illnesses and even less about what could be done to treat people or alleviate their condition There were only 18 male patients at Saint-Paul-de-Mausole when Vincent arrived He lived in this small community for a full year Vincent described them on several occasions as “my companions in misfortune” Vincent wrote to his brother Theo that “the room where we stay on rainy days is like a 3rd-class waiting room in some stagnant village” What struck him most forcibly was the men’s boredom and sluggishness The admissions register contains no medical data but with the names of the other patients it proved possible to use other sources to research their varied backgrounds and conditions I was shocked to discover quite how ill most of them were—and what a challenging environment this must have created for the artist Vincent wrote that “one continually hears shouts and terrible howls as though of the animals in a menagerie” he confessed to his brother that “I’m afraid of the other patients” Further research revealed disturbing details about the condition of some of the men Their individual stories give us an insight into their suffering although it does make for distressing reading He had never learned to speak and was prone to acts of violence—hardly surprisingly since he was unable to communicate verbally Jean ended up being the last male patient in the asylum which only accepted females after the First World War he would usually sit by the entrance lodge of the asylum aged 65—after living for 45 years behind its walls Vincent was presumably referring to Jean when he wrote to Theo about an unnamed patient “who doesn’t reply except in incoherent sounds” Vincent told Theo that the man only responded to him “because he isn’t afraid of me” suggesting that the artist went to considerable efforts to be sensitive and understanding Medical reports at the time categorised him as “a true suicidal monomaniac” He is not recorded at the asylum in the 1891 census so by then he could have been moved elsewhere—or he might possibly have died tragically young was admitted just two weeks after Van Gogh Vincent wrote to Theo: “A new person has arrived who is so agitated that he breaks everything and shouts day and night he also tears the straitjackets and up to now he scarcely calms down he demolishes his bed and all the rest in his room It’s very sad to see—but they have a lot of patience here.” was a retired priest who had been living at the nearby monastery of Saint-Michel-de-Frigolet He may well have been suffering from dementia Eating together and observing his companions Van Gogh must quickly have had the idea of painting portraits of these unusual characters—or at least the more amenable men who were able to sit still Van Gogh’s Portrait of a Man with a Cigarette (autumn 1889) Credit: Van Gogh Museum Portrait of a Man with a Cigarette is often said to depict a patient with only one eye but in fact the sitter appears to have been suffering from a drooping eyelid It was courageous of someone with such a condition to have posed for a portrait particularly as Van Gogh made no effort to disguise their affliction who was even more disfigured (after the mutilation of his ear) In October 1889 Vincent wrote to his mother that he was working on “a portrait of one of the patients” Vincent added that “it’s strange that when one is with them for some time and is used to them one no longer thinks about their being mad” Van Gogh’s Portrait of a Man (autumn 1889) Credit: Van Gogh Museum Van Gogh’s disturbing Portrait of a Man depicts an elderly patient expressionist and rather crude image has at some point suffered deterioration in the forehead area giving the sitter’s gaunt face an even more sorrowful appearance this unnerving portrait—which has rarely been exhibited and is relatively little known—tellingly reveals much about the reality of asylum life The man’s empty-looking eyes betray a deep sadness and sense of incomprehension It is heartbreaking to think of Van Gogh living among such troubled patients And it is difficult to conceive of an artist being able to create such vibrant and optimistic paintings surrounded by such distress Van Gogh was well aware of the dangers: “What would be infinitely worse is to let myself slide into the state of my companions in misfortune who do nothing all day Van Gogh’s Window in the Studio (September–October 1889) Credit: Van Gogh Museum But it was art that actually saved Van Gogh and made life tolerable he was allocated another room for his studio a retreat where he could apply his creative talents—and try to forget where he was living After recovering from a mental crisis in April 1890 Van Gogh was more determined than ever to leave was due in considerable part to the influence of the other patients Vincent explained in a deeply felt letter: “The surroundings here are starting to weigh on me more than I could express.. Starry Night—his personal vision of the heavens Van Gogh’s Starry Night (June 1889) Credit: Museum of Modern Art In May 1890, a year after his arrival, Vincent left Saint-Paul-de-Mausole. His doctor then categorised him as “cured”, but sadly that was hardly the case. Three months later, in a wheatfield on the outskirts of Auvers-sur-Oise, he ended his life. Maryna Savchenko’s painting (2016) of the actor Eleanor Tomlinson the daughter of Van Gogh’s landlord in Auvers-sur-Oise in the animated film Loving Vincent (2017) Credit: Loving Vincent Art Auction in aid of Ukrainian Children • Two of the paintings used in the animated film Loving Vincent are to be auctioned to benefit a Ukrainian charity based in Poland. Ending on 24 September, the online sale is being organised by the Polish-Based BreakThru Films—and it will support the Fundacja Rozwoju Dzieci which runs 100 childcare centres for Ukrainian refugees Reconstruction (2023) of the lost image of Van Gogh’s hidden painting of two wrestlers and his Self-portrait with Grey Felt Hat (September-October 1887) Credits: Oxia Palus has published a reconstruction of a lost Van Gogh image which was later overpainted on the canvas as a flower picture (Still Life with Meadow Flowers and Roses x-rays revealed that underneath the still life was an earlier composition of two boxers which is referred to in a letter from Vincent to his brother Theo written in Antwerp in January 1886 The Oxia Palus reconstruction was done by neuroscientist Anthony Bourached and physicist George Cann of University College London the resulting image gives only a rough approximation of Van Gogh’s lost work The crude brushwork of the reconstruction seems unlike that of Van Gogh and the colours and background patterning are more reminiscent of his self-portrait painted in Paris in September-October 1887 after his technique had developed blog24 April 2020Van Gogh experienced lockdown—how did isolation impact on his art?The artist once told his sister that isolation was “sometimes as hard to bear as exile”—but was necessary “if we want to work” inspired thousands of Brits to swap the 9 to 5 for an ancient farmhouse surrounded by olive groves But the dream may soon slip away: as the Brexit transition deadline approaches on December 31 Francophiles are scrambling to establish residency so they can retain EU rights to remain for longer than 90 days at a time In Provence there has been a “mad rush” to buy property the region made famous by Peter Mayle’s book That area may be the stronghold of British second-home owners cosmopolitan town of St-Rémy-de-Provence is synonymous with Van Gogh who found inspiration in its light and landscapes11 November 2009iStockAll products are independently selected by our editors Provençal market town is synonymous with Van Gogh who found inspiration in its light and landscapes It was also the birthplace of astrologer Nostradamus The once sleepy town has become chic and cosmopolitan distilling the essence of art de vivre with its café society luxury food stores and interior-design shops Still far removed from the brash modernity of the Côte d'Azur many visitors are attracted by the irresistible combination of sophisticated simplicity and top-class restaurants (00 33 4 90 92 03 33; www.chateaudesalpilles.com) This elegant hotel has a discerning clientele 36 boulevard Victor Hugo (00 33 4 90 92 51 50;www.hotelphoto.com) ultra-minimalist and recently revamped hotel 10 rue du 8 mai 1945 (00 33 4 32 60 68 20; www.lamaisonduvillage.com) This townhouse hotel in central St-Rémy boasts rich scarlet and aubergine combined with pale-pistachio bought the house four years ago when it was derelict Many of the original features remain (wooden beams chandeliers and day beds have been mixed with contemporary sofas and chairs and quirky finishing touches The result is a stylish and highly individual boutique hotel There are five suites: Beige (a duplex off the courtyard garden with its own patio) and sitting room and bathroom with roll-top bath layout and outlook.The hotel has handwritten background lounge music and glorious scented candles (the Corcos are the local suppliers for Diptyque) guests have access to the pool at the Hôtel L'Atelier up the road Dinner is available by special arrangement to guests only CHEZ L'AMI Hôtel Les Ateliers de L'Image 36 boulevard Victor Hugo (00 33 4 90 92 51 50).Serves sophisticated Franco-Japanese cuisine GRAIN DU SEL 23-25 boulevard Mirabeau (00 33 4 90 92 00 89) Stylish restaurant with Baroque decor and a chic atmosphere regional cuisine and a quaffable wine list LE BISTROT DES ALPILLES 15 boulevard Mirabeau (00 33 4 90 92 09 17; www.lebistrotdesalpilles.com) although the classic house special gigot a la ficelle still features BISTROT DU PARADOU 57 avenue de la Vallée des Baux (00 33 4 90 54 32 70).Set in a rustic stone house Bistrot Du Paradou specialises in laid-back regional food for a long and lazy supper in the sun ALAIN ASSAUD 13 boulevard Marceau (00 33 4 90 92 37 11) This restaurant has a deceptively rustic pizzeria-style interior but in tough competition from a huge number of similar eateries in the area MAISON JAUNE 15 rue Carnot (00 33 4 90 92 56 14) This offers a Provençal menu de degustation OUSTAU DE BAUMANIERE (00 33 4 90 54 33 07; www.oustaudebaumaniere.com) two-Michelin-starred restaurant at this Relais et Châteaux property is worth a visit - if your credit card can handle the expense Take the opportunity to visit the ancient town of Glanum a major archaeological site dating from 6BC with all the usual Roman remains: thermal baths Excavations began in 1921 and work is still in progress archaeologists believe that the total remains represent a surface six or seven times the size of the area already uncovered Unmissable opposite the entrance to Glanum are the impressive triumphal arch and mausoleum known collectively as Les Antiques; originally they marked the entry to the town on the Via Domitia that ran from Spain to Italy a dramatic fortified hill-top town about 6km south-west of St-Rémy The large contingent of outsiders (anybody who isn't at least a fewgenerations Provençal) explains St-Rémy's unfeasibly high concentration of home- decor stores Larger pieces of furniture are sourced from the antiques mecca of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue about 20 minutes' drive away in the western Lubéron; smaller items and finishing touches from St-Rémy including classic Provençal bedspreads at the end of a courtyard off boulevard Victor Hugo (number 38) Villa Medicis and Du Côté de chez Jade both off boulevard Mirabeau (numbers 30 and 14a) Netherlands (AP) — The star of a new exhibition at the Van Gogh Museum is not one of the Dutch painter's flamboyant masterpieces but a rough sketch by a junior French provincial doctor recently discovered in an American library shows just how much of his left ear Van Gogh sliced off in December 1888: almost all of it the exhibition "On the Verge of Insanity," charts Vincent van Gogh's descent into mental illness his notorious self-mutilation in the southern French town of Arles and Rey's 1930 drawing seems to offer a definitive answer to years of debate about exactly how much of his own ear Van Gogh cut off before taking it to a local brothel all that was left was a small flap of the lobe The sketches were unearthed by writer Bernadette Murphy in the archive of writer Irving Stone at The Bancroft Library who wrote a biographical novel of Van Gogh The book was later filmed with Kirk Douglas playing the tormented artist The letter is displayed alongside a striking portrait of Rey that Van Gogh painted and gave to the doctor as a token of his gratitude Van Gogh dismissed the breakdown that led to slicing off his ear as "a simple artist's bout of craziness," according to a catalog accompanying the exhibition But other paintings in the exhibition — "The Garden of the Asylum" and "The Enclosed Wheatfield in Saint-Remy after a Storm" — date from his subsequent stay in the asylum in Saint-Remy-de-Provence The museum says they show how painting became a lifeline for Van Gogh during his battles with mental illness a badly corroded 7mm pocket revolver that could be the very weapon Van Gogh used to shoot himself is on display It was discovered around 1960 in fields behind the castle in the northern French village of Auvers-sur-Oise where Van Gogh shot himself in the chest on July 27 The exhibition runs from July 15 until Sept medical specialists and Van Gogh experts will discuss the various theories on Van Gogh's mental illness on Sept 14 and present their findings at a public symposium the following day not to mention Peter Mayle's many millions of readers - for whom The nature of its appeal isn't mysterious is an essential part of its charm - or at least a part of its charm that can remain charming as long as you're in a position to take the edge off those elemental extremes with a steady supply of chilled rosé or under-floor heating When I sat down with Vicki Archer, an Australian writer, blogger and world-class Francophile, at Domaine de Ronsard, her farmhouse not far from Saint-Rémy in the South of France This was at the end of May They lay as thick as rumpled duvets on their earthen beds Elsewhere they were entwined with trellises and arches The pale-pink and white blooms harmonised with the creamy pallor of the farmhouse's limestone walls and painted shutters and stood out in pleasing contrast to the deep green of lawn the sunburnt glow of the terracotta-tiled roof jagged silhouette of the Alpilles mountain range in the distance and the cloudless deep blue of the sky The dining room at Domaine de RonsardI swam in a pool shaded by olive trees and afterwards sat breathing in the scent of thyme and rosemary and warm stone 'It's good-hair heat,' Vicki told me She glanced over her shoulder and added: 'Just be careful when the gardener's around he'll cut your hair.' Perhaps that explained the tower of Panama hats piled seven or eight high atop an old bust next to the terrace door - protection from scissors as well as sunlight A bedroomThe pale-pink and white blooms harmonised with the creamy pallor of the farmhouse's limestone walls and painted shutters her husband David and their three children used to travel from Sydney to holiday every year in the South of France They began to entertain the idea of buying a second home in that part of the world When eventually they found the right place who had been obsessed by all things French since she was 10 years old - nothing less than a coup de foudre Within 24 hours they had not only bought the property but had also engaged a local architect to implement the renovation But then it had a momentum of its own and we just ran with it.' Vicki's working life was about to change too Thanks to a nudge from a photographer friend of hers she found herself writing what would be published in 2006 as My French Life The Provence house is a reflection of her taste and the family's travels non-denominational - though displaying great faith in and reverence for cushions and squishy sofas woven baskets and cut flowers (roses especially and pale-pink or white roses especially especially) Old and new pieces sit side by side - antique screens busts and books alongside transparent acrylic coffee tables large-scale and rather lurid oil paintings and monochrome but thickly textured rugs 'I like mixing things up,' Vicki said The entrance hallThere are eight bedrooms of varying shapes and sizes most with superb views across the garden towards the Alpilles The kitchen is stupendous - in addition to the kitchen proper there's a pantry off to one side a laundry room with fridges and oversized sinks for flower arranging off to another and an adjoining corridor with a vast armoire full of glassware and china 'We've had 35 or 40 people here at a time,' said Vicki with friends camped in tents in the garden.' She hoots with laughter You should feel at home while you're here but it's pretty cosy.' The only thing I'd quibble with is the bit about slicker places - Provençal farmhouses don't come much slicker than this Domaine de Ronsard sleeps up to 16 and costs from about £16,990 for a week through uniquepropertiesandevents.com This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller June 2017 features sun-dappled terraces and lush gardens The house was originally renovated by local architect Bruno Lafourcade further updated it to suit the family of five Cypress trees punctuate the gardens bordering the swimming pool A table draped with a Summerill & Bishop tablecloth and set with Pichon d’Uzès plates and John Jenkins glassware overlooks the pool area and gardens “This necklace reminds me of my long friendship and working relationship with Claude Lalanne as well as all of the great jewelry we have sold through my gallery,” says Louisa Guinness who hosted Lalanne’s first-ever solo jewelry show in London Lalanne’s imaginative pieces are renowned for incorporating actual flora into the design process An Alexander Calder work on paper and a bar in the form of a grasshopper by François-Xavier Lalanne enliven the main staircase A dynamic canvas by American abstractionist Caio Fonseca animates the primary bedroom “This is one of my favorite small Fonseca paintings,” says Ben Brown “It’s so delicious and contains all of the musical forms and harmonious tones that one associates with his work Surmounting a writing desk in the guest room is a small grid by Alighiero Boetti a leading figure in the Arte Povera movement who was one of the greatest postwar Italian artists,” says Brown Although Boetti utilized a variety of mediums he became famous for his mosaiclike embroideries crafted by Afghan weavers consist of individual letters that the viewer must decipher and arrange into words Brown commissioned one of his gallery artists to paint a mural around the fireplace in the dining room where vintage chairs by Børge Mogensen surround a dining table by Guillerme et Chambron who also designed the 1970s chairs and table next to the fireplace In addition to the commissioned dining room mural and the painting of a snowy scene in a living area by artist Ena Swansea exquisite Ena Swansea at her best,” says Brown Guinness grouped a cream-colored Liaigre sofa with a bluish gray sofa and an ottoman by Gervasoni; the sculpture in the corner is by Gavin Turk A painting by Ena Swansea creates a snowy backdrop for a corner rocker by Ron Arad that is accompanied by a lounge chair and an ottoman by Charles and Ray Eames A 2008 work by Dutch painter Jan Worst overlooks the tub in the en suite bath The couple also has a radiant mixed-media canvas by Spanish artist Miquel Barceló “This piece exemplifies Barceló’s Majorcan origins and use of color while depending on the simple forms of his subject matter,” says Brown The serene guest room features a chromogenic color print by Thomas Ruff “Given that I cannot own the original masterpiece by Ed Ruscha I must be content with Vik Muniz’s amusing remake,” says Brown of this 2008 digital chromogenic print by the Brazilian artist “It’s pure California.” Earlier this year Brown also displayed a selection of Muniz’s most iconic works at his gallery’s Hong Kong outpost in an exhibition called “Grand Tour.” © 2023 Hudson One Media, LLC. 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