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Climbing Mont Ventoux twice rather than once is one of the great attractions of this year’s Tour de France
we mustn’t overlook the Col de la Liguière
1 pass that will cause an initial selection
even though its summit is more than 100 kilometers from the finish
The first Ventoux ascent is via Sault on the Giant of Provence’s “easiest” side
The second ascent is from its most renowned flank via Bédoin
Being an excellent climber won’t be enough
The region’s infamous summer heat could exact a powerful toll on this near-six-hour stage
while after again reaching the Ventoux’s almost 2,000-meter (6,000-foot) summit
the riders re-negotiate the super-fast 20-kilometer drop into Malaucène
It’s a finish similar to the one down the steep side of the Aubisque that earned Roglič a solo stage win at the 2018 Tour
at the end of a 130m straight on the 16.2 feet wide Cours des Isnards
just a few steps away from the main canals of an idyllic Provençal village
It’s one of two or three he’ll make this year
decorated with posters of Georges Brassens
There’s just enough space to circle the long table where the boat’s skeleton takes shape
but not obligation: The pleasure of crafting in this workshop springs from the love of a river
“This boat is our own method of freedom on the river
It reminds us of our heritage and allows us access to nature in a respectful way,” says Pretôt
In the late 1970s in the south of France
Pretôt dreamed of gliding over the blue waters of the Sorgues on a traditional lightweight wooden fishing boat called a négo chin—Provençal for “drown the dog,” a reference to its inherently unstable low and flat-bottomed shape
So began his quest to learn and revive the forgotten craft
Pretôt has built more than 100 of the boats
and played a significant role in reviving the fishing culture that founded the village of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
“The first settlers of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue were fishermen
The embankments were shallow and wild,” said the late Sauveur Romano—the village’s amateur historian—in a 2020 interview
“They needed boats they could easily manage in the tributaries
that don’t cast a shadow which scares the fish
and that could be maneuvered alone,” said Romano
There is no other boat quite like the négo chin because there are few rivers like the Sorgues
the spring-fed Sorgues is the only outflow of a massive underground basin
and water filters through miles of rock before surfacing
the river’s temperature hovers around 53-55 degrees Fahrenheit year-round
The river and its narrow feeder streams are surrounded by marshes
historical records first mention the village’s fishing guild
the guild offered local fishermen a variety of assistance
not unlike modern social security or worker’s compensation programs
The fishermen of the Confrérie used négo chins and special fishing techniques
the spider (a fisherman places a 40-foot net on the riverbed overnight and collects his catch in the morning) and the l’épervier
the sparrowhawk (the fisherman throws a round net lined with weights in a circular motion
trapping the fish as he pulls it in and the opening closes)
and silk-spinning began utilizing the force of the Sorgue
as well as villages growing along its banks
reduced the fish and crustacean populations
The economic value of fishing diminished and membership in the guild waned
“A few old-timers had the boat I was looking for
but not many in good condition,” says Pretôt
after digging through archives and scouring the cabanons
Pretôt and his father managed to recreate the ancient fishing boat
they let it season in the water to become watertight (today Pretôt uses a thin layer of modern sealant to speed up the process)
Pretôt had large swaths of the river to himself
propelled by a long vertical oar similar to those used by gondoliers
interest was growing in the fishing culture that had founded L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
led the movement to bring back the Confrérie di Pescaïre Lilen and revive some of the river’s lost traditions
he sought out someone to teach him how the nets were made and how to throw them
“The people fishing with nets who I learned from were essentially poachers attached to their tradition,” Borel says
But their knowledge was crucial to rebuilding the Confrérie
the reborn guild put on the first festival of Peche d’antan
loosely translated as “fishing of bygone days,” in the center of the village
The festival’s size and popularity has grown each year
The event begins with a parade of négo chins
Traditional fishing technique demonstrations follow
It’s the only time of year that net-fishing is allowed on the Sorgues
and even then the fish are thrown back into the water
less-traditional festival activities include négo chin races up and down the canals: When they pass underneath low footbridges in the village
boat navigators flatten themselves to the decks
hoping not to take a tumble into the chilly river
Borel sees a healthier river today than during his youth, despite development and increased tourism. “Today, we have a river that compares with some of the most pristine and sought-after rivers in Canada when it comes to trout fishing,” he says
the river has a way of harnessing your attention
The Sorgues has its own universe,” says the current Confrérie president
who led the négo chin’s revival
he knows that he won’t be building these boats forever
the craft has been picked up by another so-called “water-carpenter” in the village
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the 11th stage of the Tour de France will go through the Vaucluse
for the first time in the history of the Tour
Here is our advice and musts to cover the stage at your own pace as if you were with them on the road and enjoy this cycle tourism escapade in your own way
Une publication partagée par GF Mont Ventoux (@gfmontventoux)
Une publication partagée par Isle sur la Sorgue Tourisme (@islesurlasorguetourisme)
Une publication partagée par 🄵🄴🅃🄴 🄳🄴 🄻🄰 🄻🄰🅅🄰🄽🄳🄴 🅂🄰🅄🄻🅃 (@fetedelalavande)
Une publication partagée par MarionLB (@marionlbphoto)
As you follow the route of the 2021 Tour de France, on your way you will come to the charming village of Malaucène
the village is a real cyclists’ haunt all year round
Take a seat and have a cup of coffee on a terrace and try and count them
Make the most of the pleasant alley in the shade of the plane trees
the Wednesday morning market and the beautiful fortified church
The unique architecture of the houses which were built partly due to the ramparts which go through the town will amaze you
shady site which once fed as many as 17 mills
The ideal place for a picnic with the family or friends
Go up to the calvaire along a typical paved street and enjoy the exceptional panorama
Une publication partagée par Tour de France™ (@letourdefrance)
The Sorgue River in southern France is famous for its fly-fishing
in particular for grayling and brown trout
Adams recently had the opportunity to spend a day on the Sorgue
The fact that he caught some in itself is a feat
for fly-fishing there is somewhat different than in the United States
and quite a challenge for those not native to the country
John recently e-mailed me an account of the trip
and it is best told mostly in his own words
We were settled into a house in Isle sur la Sorgue in southern France for about eight days
"I had seen lots of fish in the river as it ran through the small town and saw fly fishermen in town
"While riding through town with Jane (my wife) and David and Claudia Seyle
I made a statement about how much I would like to go fly-fishing."
The others in the car quickly pointed out to Adams that they were passing a tackle shop
picked up his little French dictionary and entered the tackle shop
who turned out to be an expert fly fisherman."
Adams also found out that he was a game warden
"I had almost as much fun trying to communicate with the store owners
He and his guide didn't travel far and parked their vehicle where the river crossed under the road
"Cyril pointed out that they were grayling
Cyril relented and soon caught a few grayling to show me the proper technique
"It was like trying to fly-fish in a phone booth
and it took me a lot longer than Cyril to catch some
said one technique is called dapping - dangle a weighed nymph in front of the fish
where permission is needed to cross private land to reach a river
Adams said that in France it is an accepted way of life
And it was on such property that he met a new friend
"We had been walking in the river and up along the bank in a field when I heard this heavy breathing and turned around
Adams said he gave the donkey a slight tap on the nose with his fly rod and it left
"There was a mayfly hatch in progress that day
It was a bit slow because of the overcast skies
"He also performed one of the best stunts I have ever witnessed while fishing
"A fish was visible in a spot where the bank was too steep to get into the river
so he walked out on a log about 12 inches in diameter
a Frenchman with very good English was there and told him that Cyril was the top guide for browns in the area
and that he had caught bigger fish than most other fishermen
"I have fished in lots of places with lots of guides
and I can truly say the Frenchmen treated me well."
Outdoor Editor John Burke can be reached at 912-652-0299 or at john.burke@savannahnow.com
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focusing on pictures of Art Deco hotels in Miami Beach
A self-professed “history buff,” he moved on to posters of World War II
developing a fascination with the visual language of propaganda
he began acquiring posters by Toulouse-Lautrec and eventually picked up a Picasso
“The Essential Cubism,” which inspired Lauder to focus his collecting
With the guidance of art historian Emily Braun and other scholars
he carefully built what is being billed as the most important grouping of Cubist works still in private hands
a promised gift to the Metropolitan Museum
can now be seen for the first time by the public in the first-floor special exhibition galleries
sculptures and works on paper are on view through February 16
chairman emeritus of The Estée Lauder Companies
zeroed in on the Big Four—Georges Braque (1882-1963)
“the most influential avant-garde movement of the first half of the 20th century,” the wall text states at the outset
Braque and Picasso are credited with founding the movement
with Braque having the distinction of initiating the style with “Trees at L’Estaque” (1908)
one of two landscapes displayed at a Paris gallery in 1908 in a groundbreaking show devoted to his work
following photos of Lauder’s residence on the Upper East Side
with trophies from the collection dotting the walls
The Cubists pioneered a radical new way of seeing the world
They dispensed with traditional perspective and opted for shallow
two-dimensional spaces that offered views of objects from unusual angles and shapes that pushed outward not inward
round modeling of figures was replaced with sharp
jagged edges and a collision of geometric forms and overlapping planes
The bulk of the show is devoted to founding members Braque and Picasso in the years 1909-1914
with an illuminating look at the collaborative
an artists’ enclave in Montmartre in Paris
They painted by day and critiqued each other’s work by night
A painting by Braque wasn’t finished until Picasso said it was
Braque seems to have single-handedly redefined painting when
after spotting faux wood-grained wallpaper in a shop window in Avignon
he purchased some and incorporated a section into “Fruit Dish and Glass” (1912)— the first papier collé (collage) and thrillingly shown here
Picasso and other revolutionaries soon followed suit
sheet music and other mass-produced items to their fine art canvases to tease viewers and offer clues to the meaning of their pictures
the Cubists reveled in visual and linguistic puns
Their works were puzzles that had to be decoded and studied to see the complex
Color offered a “way in.” The exhibit devotes a section to illustrating how Picasso and Braque expanded their monochromatic palettes in spring 1912 and reintroduced color to enhance and help unlock the significance of their art
Lauder’s collecting zeal continues to this day
His purchases of works by the four “essential Cubists” were made with an eye to building a history of the movement and donating the works to a museum—not to profit off them
As he says in an interview with collection curator Emily Braun that prefaces the show’s exhaustive catalogue: “Much of the fun
His holdings are the result of more than 30 years of careful study and dedication
When he decided to set his sights on building a world-class
he dove in and read obsessively about the subject: “I got every book I could lay my hands on—especially the catalogues raisonnés [a listing of works with notes]—and read them again and again…and again.”
Travel and the hunt for key pieces followed
He disputes the claim of one detractor that
“anyone with a few billion dollars could walk up and down Madison Avenue and assemble the same collection,” responding: “Yes unlimited money can buy some icons
but collecting rare works from the past is a journey that can’t simply be bought
Vingegaard climbs to third behind unflappable Pogacar and Uran as O'Connor is dropped
as the legendary mountain produced the first cracks in the armour of race leader Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates)
Twenty-four hours after placing second to Mark Cavendish (Deceuninck-QuickStep) in a bunch sprint
Van Aert triumphed from the breakaway in one of the toughest mountain stages of this year’s Tour
On the second ascent of the ‘Giant of Provence’
on the traditional route from Bédoin
the Belgian champion dropped World Champion Julian Alaphilippe (Deceuninck-QuickStep) and the Trek-Segafredo duo of Bauke Mollema and Kenny Elissonde
Despite being significantly heavier than those climbing specialists
he powered his way up to Chalet Reynard and then up the exposed southern face of the bald mountain before maintaining his one-minute advantage down the 20km descent to the finish in Malaucène
Of course I did not expect to win this stage before the Tour de France,” Van Aert said
“It's one of the most iconic climbs in the Tour
Elissonde and Mollema hung on to take second and third
before the yellow jersey came home alongside Jonas Vingegaard (Jumbo-Visma)
and Rigoberto Urán (EF Education-Nippo)
Pogačar conceded no time to his direct rivals
and actually increased his overall lead after Ben O’Connor (AG2R Citroën) was dropped on the second ascent of Ventoux
but his air of invincibility begun to evaporate in the low-hanging cloud at the top of the mountain
After Ineos Grenadiers had whittled the yellow jersey group to single figures
it looked like yet more domination when Pogačar followed an attack from Vingegaard
when the Dane upped the tempo near the summit
he lost contact and slipped back to join Carapaz and Urán for the descent
Vingegaard was unable to turn his efforts into tangible rewards as he squandered a 30-second advantage on the descent
with Pogačar producing a statement of defiance to sprint for fourth place from the four-man group
but for the first time in this Tour he didn’t look like he was riding a different race to his rivals
Van Aert and Alaphilippe joined a Trek-heavy breakaway for the double Ventoux
first scaled by the longer and gentler road from Sault
then the more familiar and steeper road from Bédoin
both emerging out of the trees at Chalet Reynard for the iconic final 6km stretch to the weather station at the summit
despite it becoming clear the winner would come from the break
they continued their effort on the second ascent
Michal Kwiatkowski was the stand-out carriage
outlasting Richie Porte and riding himself into submission almost all the way from 10km to the final 2.5km of the mountain
who was dropped on the first ascent and lost nearly half an hour
first blood was drawn from stage 9 winner O’Connor
who found himself in trouble 10km from the top and went on to lose four minutes
Enric Mas (Movistar) and Guillaume Martin (Cofidis) were two other contenders who lost contact before the Pole had pulled aside and ground to a halt
That left the remaining GC riders isolated and
Vingegaard launched a fierce acceleration that suggested he’s a true podium contender
Wilco Kelderman (Bora-Hansgrohe) and Alexey Lutsenko (Astana-PremierTech) were immediately dropped
but would limit their losses on the descent to 20 seconds
while Carapaz and Urán were also forced to watch the yellow jersey sail up the road again as he followed the white jersey.
the twist came a kilometre or so later when Pogačar
but it was a first hint that there’s life in this Tour yet
with Urán up to second and Vingegaard up to third at 5:32
Fifth-placed O'Connor is the only other rider within six minutes
There was a double ascent of the Mont Ventoux on the menu but no one seemed particularly worried about conserving resources as the race got off to a flying start
Least worried of all was the World Champion Julian Alaphilippe (Deceuninck-QuickStep)
who’d said this wasn’t a stage for him but made his intentions abundantly clear with several accelerations in the opening kilometres
after a string of mini moves came and went
and he continued to bludgeon the rest of the field into some sort of shape that resembled a promising breakaway
He went clear with Quintana ahead of the Côte de Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
and dropped the Colombian on the double-digit gradients
He then pressed on alone through the intermediate sprint after 40km
at which point a counter-attacking group had established itself and was coming across
and Neilson Powless (EF Education-Nippo) were his companions
Alaphilippe attacked them all again on the Côte de Gordes
Perez and Rolland managed to get back on terms over the top to form a leading quartet
the attacks continued from the peloton and another chase group formed
containing: Vegard Stake Laengen (UAE Team Emirates)
and Quentin Pacher (B&B Hotels p/b KTM)
That group soon swelled to 13 when the ever-active Wout van Aert (Jumbo-Visma) went across with Kenny Elissonde (Trek-Segafredo)
and the (AG2R Citroën) duo of Benoit Cosnegroy and Greg Van Avermaet
things finally started to calm down in the peloton
with the sprinters who were dropped amid the early chaos all regaining contact
and with Ineos coming to the front to dictate the tempo
The advantage of the four leaders over the chasers stabilized at a minute as the gap to the peloton stretched to three minutes
With 124km remaining came the first proper climbing test
the category-1 Col de la Liguière - 9.3km at 6.7 per cent – winding its way steadily up the shrubby hillside
The leading quartet stayed together all the way up
with Dan Martin sprinting to collect maximum mountains classification points at the summit
The chase group – one man down after Cosnefroy fell away – followed over at 45 seconds
with the peloton at 4:45 and a gruppetto containing Mark Cavendish at 7:20
The lead group and chase groups then merged on the approach to the first ascent of Ventoux with 100km to go
taking the longer (22km) but much gentler road up to Chalet Reynard before emerging onto the famous upper slopes for the familiar final 6km
The breakaway stayed together on the lower slopes before Alaphilippe launched yet another acceleration to split it in two
There was nearly a minute between the groups as they passed Chalet Reynard
and a kilometre or so later only Rolland and Mollema remained as chasers
as Dan Martin and the rest slipped away and gave up hope
Mollema attacked the Frenchman 2km from the top to bridge over and make it three Trek-Segafredo riders in the front group of eight
Ineos continued to set the pace five minutes in arrears
and they soon found a GC victim in David Gaudu (Groupama-FDJ)
who was dropped earlier and tried to limit the damage with teammate Bruno Armirail
Geraint Thomas worked up to Chalet Reynard before handing over to Dylan van Baarle
Alaphilippe moved clear of the eight-man group to claim maximum mountains points ahead of Perez
The peloton still contained more than 50 riders as UAE Team Emirates took over from Ineos Grenadiers in the final kilometre and led them over at 4:45
Everyone got down the 20km descent to Malaucène safely – the same they’d do after the second ascent – with the gaps stable
The approach to Bédoin for the second ascent went over the uncategorized climb of the Col de la Madeleine
where Bernard shouldered the workload up front
He went so hard through Bédoin that Perez was dropped
and Bernard himself almost ground to the halt when he reached the official start of the 15.7km climb
Elissonde immediately took the Trek-Segafredo baton
using the team’s numerical advantage to attack
with Durbridge and Meurisse quickly dropped
Finding himself with Alaphilippe and Mollema
moving easily clear with a fierce acceleration that took him over to Elissonde
who managed to latch onto the wheel and hang on
but he did manage to shake him a couple of kilometres later when the Frenchman appeared to blow up
Ineos Grenadiers lifted the tempo markedly through Jonathan Castroviejo and the bunch began to explode on the lower slopes
having been refused a collaboration request
and sensing Mollema might be starting to come across
leaving him for dead with another fierce kick
with Mollema at a minute and Alaphilippe at 2:30
Michal Kwiatkowski took over from Castroviejo and reduced the yellow jersey group to just a dozen riders
and he found some joy when O’Connor lost contact with 10km to the top
Van Aert emerged through the fans and onto the exposed final 6km of the mountain with a lead of 52 seconds over Elissonde and 1:15 over Mollema
He was even holding the yellow jersey group at 4:20
as the 12 riders who reached Chalet Reynard together: Porte
O’Connor was bravely limiting his losses at 30 seconds
As Elissonde and Mollema joined forces just over 3km from the top
Kwiatkowski took it back up in the yellow jersey group once Porte was done
and O’Connor slip back to more than a minute
Majka accelerated to the front but was immediately dropped as Kwiatkowski continued his charge
Kwiatkowski pulled aside and ground to a halt
The contenders were isolated and looked at each other for a moment until Vingegaard attacked
That spelled immediate trouble for Lutsenko and Kelderman
while Carapaz and Urán were also dropped as Pogačar followed the Dane
who lost the wheel and appeared mortal for the first time in this race
Van Aert crested Mont Ventoux for the second time with a lead of 1:15 over Elissonde and Mollema
while his teammate Vingegaard was only 20 seconds behind that duo and some 40 seconds up on Pogačar
who was about to be joined by Urán and Carapaz
Vingegaard desperately span out his biggest gear and saw his advantage wiped out by the chasing trio
Elissonde and Mollema stayed away and shook hands as they crossed the line together
realizing they did nothing wrong and simply lost to a stronger force in Van Aert
whose career would now appear to span new horizons
Sorgues, January 6, 2023- In order to strengthen its position as European industrial leader and to accelerate its development in France and internationally, the EURENCO Group is changing its organization.
EURENCO thus becomes a full-fledged Group in the portfolio of the French State Holdings Agency (Agence des Participations de l’Etat) by leaving the scope of the Giat Industries Group.
All of the Group’s operating companies are placed under a Group holding company, which remains under the management of Thierry FRANCOU and his Board of Directors. Yves TRAISSAC has been appointed Chief Executive Officer of EURENCO France in addition to his current duties as Group Deputy General Manager in charge of operations.
This reorganization concludes the first phase of the transformation plan launched in 2019 at a time when the Group’s purpose, “a key player in the Defense sector serving sovereignty”, is taking on its full meaning.
In addition to the first concrete results of the plan, which have led to a 40% increase in revenues to more than €300 million and the net creation of more than 200 jobs over the period, EURENCO is taking a key step in the evolution of its brand, serving its customers, partners, shareholders and employees. This new organization will enable us to:
For Thierry FRANCOU, Chairman and CEO of the Group: “Being united under a single name is a great way to strengthen the feeling of each of EURENCO’s 1,100 employees of belonging to the same international Group, united and sharing the same values. This evolution allows us to federate our efforts and to concentrate our investments in order to accelerate the Group’s growth”.
Indo Defence – Jakarta – 11-14 June
DSEI – London – 9-12 September
PARTNER – Belgrade – 23-26 September
Seafuture – La Spezia – 29 Sept.-2 October
AUSA – Washington D.C. – 13-15 October
ADEX – Seoul – 29 October-2 November
Dubai Air Show – Dubai – 17-21 November
Milipol Paris – Paris – 18-21 Novenber
Expodefensa – Bogotá – 1-3 December
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most people will head to the beaches in the summer and you’ll have stretches of river all to yourself
Here are our top picks of where to go and what to do
The thing to remember about wild swimming is that it’s unsupervised and you are at your own risk
always take a phone and always have water and snacks to hand
as well as a towel and a spare change of clothes in a waterproof bag
Remember that wild swimming places are off the beaten track so you’ll need practical footwear
Sometimes hiring a kayak is the best way to go
because it lets you travel fast to the best spots
you can carry your stuff in them and more people generally use the same route
Wild swimming is a wonderful way to see parts of France that (most) other people don’t see but be prepared to walk a little and make a little more effort to get the wonderful rewards
which is built into the side of the mountain and shouldn’t be missed either
Verdon Gorges
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Swapped a hectic life in the city of London for an easy-going southern French vibe
I still work just as hard but on my own terms and on my own time
and of course meeting the amazing people and seeing the wonderful things this country has to offer
See & Do The Best European Cities to Visit in October
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the romance of Provence—the irresistibly picturesque
lavender-scented region in the South of France—is truly a west-side story
and eat have opened in the quieter reaches of Avignon
The launch of a new museum devoted to Vincent van Gogh and the inauguration of a spectacular arts complex are raising the profile of the city of Arles as an important cultural center
historic village of Uzès is getting a stylish makeover from an influx of creative types who have fallen for its relaxed charm
like the old mill town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue in the fashionable Luberon district
The area’s ancient Roman architecture and its magnificent landscapes dotted with vineyards
"I love the light in Provence," says photographer Joel Meyerowitz
published the book Provence: Lasting Impressions
"We also love how committed the people there are to preserving the land," says Barrett
"This connection provides nourishment beyond just the produce it yields—it nourishes the soul."
which opened this spring in a 15th-century structure renovated with a new modern extension by the French firm Fluor Architecture
will exhibit Van Gogh’s work alongside pieces by the artist’s peers and by present-day talents like Elizabeth Peyton and Thomas Hirschhorn
a new 20-acre campus for her arts institute LUMA Foundation
Architect Annabelle Selldorf is repurposing a series of former industrial buildings on the site
and construction on an adjoining Frank Gehry–designed facility began in April; the whole project will be completed in 2018
Along with several other arts organizations
the international photography festival held every summer (this year
LUMA is transforming the town into a community of artists
a winsome eight-room hotel on the edge of town featuring a top-notch restaurant and a remarkable collection of contemporary art
Beghin and Hérault often dine at La Table 2 Julien(011-33-4-66-03-75-38)
where chef Julien Lavandet and his partner
serve a rotating menu of modern French dishes like pan-roasted yellow pollack with spinach
and Objets de Hasard (011-33-4-90-38-54-58)
An easy drive from Arles or Uzès is Irish businessman Patrick McKillen’s Château la Coste
a 500-acre biodynamic vineyard 20 minutes north of Aix-en-Provence
Since McKillen bought the property a decade ago
he’s transformed it with striking architecture—the Jean Nouvel–designed winery
and Tadao Ando’s visitor center—as well as sculptures by Alexander Calder
the eye-catching sights are an impressive reminder that Provence maintains its role as the place where many meet their muse
View a slide show of Provence's can't-miss hot spots and landmarks.
The Provençal village of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has the largest concentration of vintage stores outside Paris and also hosts a giant open-air flea market
The next is in August – so get ready for a bric-a-brac bargain
These mini districts are reached by criss-crossing bridges that span the shallow
which stocks mid-century classic furniture – and there are hushed
musty shops full of antiques and presided over by elderly
flea and antiques market rolled into one) provides more secondhand snaffling opportunities
View image in fullscreenSoda siphons and glassware on display at the open-air marketTwice a year
Sellers come from across France and throughout Europe
wares spilling out: vintage children’s scooters
wares but the sheer competition means there are plenty of bargains
place to rummage is the shady Parc Gautier
less-polished bric-a-brac is sold on rickety trestle tables: plates
I bought a children’s educational poster for €10
an enamel sign saying Cabine Telephonique for €50
a yellow ceramic Orangina jug for €5 and a coffee tin for €4
View image in fullscreenOne of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s many antiques alleywaysWe had travelled from London by train to nearby Avignon
so hadn’t had to worry about carrying extra luggage home with our smaller finds
almost all sellers are happy to ship back to the UK (or around the world) for around €200 per piece for furniture
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s other attraction is an unusual collection of 15 historic
moss-covered water wheels dotted along the river
silk and paper factories in the 19th century
The river Sorgue has its bubbling source at Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
at the foot of a steep cliff – it’s the largest spring in France and also worth a trip
The river divides just outside L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue; this “parting of the waters” is an attraction in itself
dining on the terrace of a wonderful shady garden close to the antique stores by the station
Our bistro lunch (€37pp) including mushroom tart with a bottle of rosé was delicious (and they welcomed my toddler daughter)
but dinner (€45pp) featuring rare beef fillet
treehouses and wood-and-fabric Japanese-style “pods”
Just remember to pack an extra tent to store your vintage finds
Accommodation and rail travel to Avignon were provided by Eurostar. The next antiques fair runs from 11-15 August, antiquesartandyou.com
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the travel media spill barrels of ink claiming this city or that hosts Europe’s best Christmas market
And you know what: They’re all right…because it’s simply impossible to pick the best
The redolence of grilled meats perfuming a cold night
The regional desserts and holiday delicacies
wooden cabins painted by Christmas lights selling local
handmade tchotchkes and ornaments beneath the watch of a live Christmas tree stretching 30 feet or more into the sky
Pretty much every city with a Christmas market does a great job each December of turning ancient central squares and medieval Old Towns into a place where you half-expect to find Santa’s elves looking for new design ideas
instead of pointing you to a “best” that doesn’t exist
we’re going to point you toward European Christmas markets that are unheralded gems
It’s just that they tend to be popular more at a local
in-the-know level since some of them are in secondary and tertiary cities
while others are a couple hours’ drive or train ride from main cities
these are fantastic Christmas markets that offer an equally festive
You gobble up the same great local eats and treats
And you shop the same great artisanal crafts
You’re just doing so at a Christmas market that doesn’t get the same level of press as the major cities
we’ve made our list (and we’ve checked it twice; you knew that pun was coming
amid all the great Christmas markets in Europe
Though much of Poland was destroyed in the Nazi blitz
Krakow was the base from which the Nazis oversaw the conquered country from the earliest days of World War II
they didn’t bomb the place…which means Krakow’s atmospheric Old Town still reflects 1,000 years of history
The early-medieval central square, one of the largest in Europe, competes with Prague in terms of ambiance
and its picturesque skyline is defined by the Gothic St
Mary’s Basilica and the 15th century Cloth Hall
Europe’s first covered market and the progenitor of every shopping mall in the world today
Along with the typical Christmas décor—the wooden stalls
the Christmas tree—Krakow’s central square is known for its carolers and a particularly Krakovian tradition: The Krakow Christmas Crib contest that begin in 19th century
locals compete to build the most orate nativity crib
which are then paraded through the streets and displayed in the square
a particular style of Polish gingerbread… and
there’s mulled wine that the Poles know as Grzaniec Galicyjski
But perhaps the most unique Christmas libation is hot beer typically spiced with raspberry or ginger syrup
This is quite possibly the single most picturesque Christmas market on the planet
Santa lives here and you might just bump into him while he’s out fetching a mulled wine for Mrs
Located about two hours south of Stuttgart
in a mountainous gorge covered by a forest of evergreens
And the icing atop is Christmas sugar cookie is that the gorge is traversed by a 130-foot-tall stone
arched railway viaduct…which is up-lit at night for the holidays
the entire scene looks like something from inside a snow globe
With just 40 or so wooden huts snaking beneath the viaduct
the Ravenna Gorge market isn’t a large as some of Europe’s major-city Christmas markets
no major-city Christmas market has setting you find here
you’ll find everything you need to enjoy a Christmas-market experience—the food
artisanal treasure: Black Forest cuckoo clocks
you can still hit larger Christmas markets in nearby Freiburg or Stuttgart (one of Germany’s most highly rated)
Italy's largest (and most famous) Christmas markets are in the northern regions—Bolzano
and Merano and are influenced by the nearby German-Austrian traditions
I like the Castello di Limatola near Caserta (Campania region) where an evocative medieval-era mercato is held in a fairytale castle dating from the 1200s
local food products like the traditional holiday sweet called torrone
and it really sets itself apart from the “usual” Christmas fair
The entire village is decked out with lovely lighting
and the ancient castle and village evoke a magical Old World ambiance
There is a bosco incantato (enchanted forest) for the kids
and of course a visit with Babbo Natale (Santa Claus)
The Castello di Limatola has an excellent restaurant if you really want to make it special
Lisbon is no stranger to fabulous festivals of all kinds
and Natalis (Natal is Christmas in Portuguese) is no exception
all inside the grand pavilion at Parque das Nações by the Tejo River
The market-festival features traditions from around the world to explore and taste
for those who want to spare the turkey and still savor the flavors of wintertime foods prepared with Portuguese flair
The Corredor das Experiências is another favorite
with a cornucopia of workshops to improve your culinary and craft skills
Why not take a cheese-making course or learn the intricacies of whipping up holiday libations
Some of the best chefs in Lisbon will display their world-class talent with cooking shows to stimulate your appetite
leave your diet resolutions until New Year’s and indulge in sweets galore at Praça dos Doces
work off those calories at the Diverlandia complex
With more than 30 pieces of equipment and set designs to expand your mind and challenge your body
Diverlandia offers incomparable space for kids of all ages to engage in tactile
One of the finest Christmas venues in the country, this year Natalis will be held December 4th through 8th. For more, see the website: https://natalis.fil.pt/visitar/
A visit to the beautiful French town of Colmar at Christmastime is the stuff fairytales are made of—for the young and young-at-heart. Voted the number one Christmas market in France in 2017
located in the north of France near the German border
transforms itself into a Christmas wonderland
you’ll find no less than six distinct Christmas markets which sprout up among the city’s cobblestoned streets and early-Renaissance timber buildings
each market has its own set of artisans and its own holiday-focused theme
The market on Place Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc square) recreates the atmosphere of a traditional Alsatian village; offering regional favorites like pretzels
At the indoor craft market in the historic Koifhus building
about 20 local artists share their creative passions
and jewelry makers demonstrating their crafts and selling their “works of art”
The Gourmet Market on Place de la Cathédrale (cathedral square) is a 100% French affair
Chefs and local restaurant give demonstrations and prepare local dishes for market-goers
Pick up a plate of oysters and sip some Alsatian white wine as the city lights up for the evening and the magic of Christmas is felt all around town
I witnessed Pere Noel’s arrival in L’Isle sur la Sorgue in a style uniquely French
The classic car crossed the square in front of the imposing Collegial Notre Dame des Anges as Pere Noel tossed candy to children while standing in the open sunroof
So began the holiday season in the town also referred to as the “Venice of Provence”
the charm of L’Isle sur la Sorgue is full on during the Christmas holidays
Elaborate lighting displays are suspended above the streets in the town center
Festive music broadcast throughout the town serenades strollers as they take in the shop windows or stop for a coffee
The park along the Sorgue River is converted into a Christmas village of “chalets.” These small wooden structures become the holiday season home for participating local shop owners and restaurateurs to open their doors
Artisans from the region provide visitors shopping opportunities as well
Groups of friends gather in the park around an open fire
enjoying good company in a festive setting on crisp winter’s evenings
The Christmas village along the Sorgue is another perk of life in a small town in France
borders Germany at the base of the northern foothills of the Alps
It is less than a two-hour train ride from Munich
The Salzach River divides the city where 12 different bridges link the modern town and “Altstadt” or old town
The Altstadt was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997 is designated as one of the best-preserved city centers
Medieval and Baroque architecture populate Old Town
and the Hohensalzburg Fortress (the biggest fully preserved castle in Central Europe) sits majestically above the center of Salzburg
Climb all the way to the top or take the funicular to get a breathtaking view of the stunning city
Salzburg has a proud heritage of art and culture
including the honor of being the birthplace of both Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and the famous Christmas carol
one of the oldest markets in Austria (dating back to 15th century) kicks off Advent
One hundred booths and nativity exhibits ring the Residenz Platz (square) and wind around the entrance to the Cathedral of Salzburg
and spaetzle (a type of pasta made with fresh eggs) with cheese feed hungry visitors while warm glühwein and punch spiked with rum swirls the air with the spicy smell of cinnamon
As you stroll through the historic market to browse the unusual glass ornaments
you will hear festive carols sung in front of the cathedral
What makes the Salzburg Christmas Market special is the 80 different musical programs that take place in front of the cathedral and on the festival stage
Daily events include the reading of Christmas stories
the market’s own embodiment of the Christ Child
and traditional wind music or Turmblasen that is played every Thursday and Saturday from the towers around the Residenz Square
The ringing church bells enhance the festive atmosphere and truly makes it feel like Christmas
the second-largest city in the German state of Bavaria
the Imperial Kaiserburg Castle that sits high above Old Town was one of the most famous palaces of the Holy Roman Empire
It was the designated location for imperial assemblies and sat at the crossroads of several trade routes
Hitler selected Nuremberg as the rally center for the National Socialist Party in the 1930s
The allies bombed Nuremberg during World War II
The medieval walls and buildings were reduced to rubble but painstakingly reconstructed after the war
Located halfway between Munich and Frankfurt
the city is easily accessible by train and the Christmas festival
Christkindlemarkt is the most significant and best-known Christmas market and dates back to the 16th century
held on three different squares within Old Town
the central square in front of the Church of Our Lady
The market is opened two days before the first Sunday of Advent by the Christkind (an angel with golden curls and a golden crown) who climbs to the top of the church to recite a decade's old poem
you can browse through the 180 wooden stalls built from regional spruce and decorated with fresh greens and lights
The stalls are filled with Lebkuchen (gingerbread that has been made the same way for 600 years) and holiday decorations made from wood
or the traditional Rauschgoldengel (gold foil angels)
Look for the prune men or Zwetschgenmannle
traditional figurines made from dried prunes
Visit the Market of the Sister Cities where you can purchase gifts from all over the world
and the Children’s Christmas Market with an enchanting two-tiered carousel
Taste the Nuremberg sausages that have been world-famous for 700 years
three Nuremberg sausages on a crusty roll topped with spicy mustard
Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland but is sometimes overlooked by travelers in favor of Edinburgh or the Highlands
With its world class Kelvingrove Art museum
and edgy street art covering a myriad of Victorian style buildings
Glasgow is a modern city with Old World character
The locals are friendly and always willing to help with directions or a have friendly chat
And if you find yourself in Glasgow at Christmas time
Enoch Square is a delight to the senses and is well worth a wander
The market opens in early November and ends close to Christmas Day
Although the opening time might feel a little early for some
the festive atmosphere will soon win you over
The market has a German feel with bars and food stalls offering a variety of beer
The German style Christmas pyramid or Weihnachtspyramide is what really stands out
it’s comprised of three floors depicting different scenes from the nativity
At night it’s covered in lights and is the centerpiece of the market
The market is nestled between two of Glasgow’s main shopping streets—Argyle and Buchanan—and provides a more local shopping experience compared to the high street stores in the area
The smell of sausages sizzling on the grill combined with the sweet scent of cider helps fuel your wander through the market
Vendors will beckon you to see their wares in a friendly manner without being overly pushy
The atmosphere is bustling with crowds but family friendly
The market is open late on weekends and you’ll discover the crowd includes locals along with those who have traveled farther distances to soak up the Christmas atmosphere
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Wout van Aert emerges as a surprise winner in Maulacène
The Belgian champion rode away from his breakaway companions on the second ascent and soloed to the win on stage 11 ahead of Trek-Segafredo's Kenny Elissonde and Bauke Mollema.
In the battle for the overall race lead, Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates) showed only the briefest glimpse of weakness on the second ascent of Ventoux with just over 22 kilometres to go when he let Jonas Vingegaard (Jumbo-Visma) open a gap, which Pogačar nevertheless closed on the descent along with Rigoberto Urán (EF-Nippo) and Richard Carapaz (Ineos Grenadiers).
The sheer brutality of the 198.9 kilometre stage from Sorgues to Maulacène further widened the gaps in the general classification. Ben O'Connor (AG2R-Citroën) dropped from second overall to fifth after struggling in the heat on the last climb.
It's no surprise that the dominant young Slovenian heads away from the stage with 5:18 on his next rival, Urán, and it seems that the fight from here will be for the two remaining podium places if Pogačar continues as he has. Vingegaard, Carapaz, and O'Connor are all within 40 seconds of the Colombian.
Mont Ventoux has featured regularly in the Tour de France since its debut in 1951 and has had far more drama in past editions than what unfolded on Wednesday. The stage came off without a hitch with sparser crowds than the last time the race visited the Giant of Provence.
In 2016, high winds forced organisers to move the finish downhill to Chalet Reynaud, pushing the crowds to critical density. Then-race leader Chris Froome was caught up in a crash when a race motorbike was blocked by the crowd. His bike broken, Froome took off on foot until he could get a replacement. Officials would later nullify his time delay because of the drama.
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This year, COVID-19 travel restrictions and a strong presence from the gendarmerie meant there were no such hassles.
For all the pictures from the stage click or swipe through the gallery above.
Cyclingnews is the world's leader in English-language coverage of professional cycling
Started in 1995 by University of Newcastle professor Bill Mitchell
the site was one of the first to provide breaking news and results over the internet in English
The site was purchased by Knapp Communications in 1999
and owner Gerard Knapp built it into the definitive voice of pro cycling
major publishing house Future PLC has owned the site and expanded it to include top features
The site continues to be the most comprehensive and authoritative English voice in professional cycling
Husband and wife team Stéphane and Stéphanie Riss invite you for an elegant and refined dining experience at their restaurant La Table de Sorgues. Located in the small town of Sorgues
the menu features classic French dishes made with locally sourced ingredients
Enjoy a traditional and contemporary menu dining indoors or outdoors
Another stunning hotel and restaurant you’ll find in Gigondas is Les Florets. From its hilltop location you can excite your palate with traditional French cuisine
while having a front row seat to view the beautiful Dentelles de Montmirail mountains and the surrounding vineyards and countryside
Expect top quality wines of Gigondas from an extensive wine list
produced in house as well as wines of Côtes du Rhône and all other French wine making regions
A Sophisticated and refined dining experience
Gourmet restaurant La Vieille Fontaine
located within the Hotel d’Europe in Avignon
offers a dining experiences full of elegance
Overlooking a courtyard and the fountain of which it takes its name
diners can bask in the charming romantic atmosphere while indulging in the finest southern Rhône cuisine
which features classic French décor and contemporary touches
offers expertly prepared dishes inspired by chef Pascal Auger’s own experiences
with an emphasis on traditional techniques and flavours
Credit: Hotel d’Europe La Vieille Fontaine
Decanter’s Rhône correspondent Matt Wall’s Top Choices
These are just a few of the many great restaurants in southern Rhône
Why not join Walls on a tour of the Rhône valley where he will show you some of the finest local cuisine at Michelin-starred establishments
Dates: 25th of June until the 2nd of July 2023
*View Terms and Conditions here.
my 13-year-old Welsh terrier (and co-pilot)
Our plan is to spend four weeks driving through France
Madame T has spent most of her life padding about the third floor of Vogue House
but we’ve gone freelance and decided now is the time..
DAY 11: From L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue to LyonMILES TRAVELLED: 155HOURS SPENT IN THE CAR: Three and a half hours
Madame T feeling the heat in L'Isle-sur-la-SorgueTOP DOG: Spending hours wandering around Antiques Art & You
the newly whizzed-up (yet oldest) international antiques fair
Held twice a year – in March and August – in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
this five-day fest sees hundreds of visiting exhibitors join the town’s nearly 300 permanent dealers
this is ‘fleamarket meets car-boot sale meets Kensington Church Street’.GROWLINGLY BAD: It had to happen
A road trip with Madame T wouldn’t have been complete without a drama
Having spent the morning grazing on grass like a cow
What was surprising was the blade of grass that got caught in her windpipe
she was struggling to breathe between sneezes
I rushed her to an emergency vet who somehow deciphered my hysterical Franglais and took her off
she was grass-free (but I was a total basket case)
Post-procedure at the vet in LyonME TIME: No time for me; it was all about Madame T.WALKIES: From the hotel lobby of Cour des Loges to the taxi to the operating theatre and back; though to be honest
Madame T was carried most of the way.WE WERE DOG TIRED IN..
four Italian Renaissance townhouses make up this very sexy
The showstopper is the 14th-century courtyard that scales the entire building from lobby to roof
Hotel Cour des LogesMADAME T'S VERDICT: God bless Gérard Ravet
the dapper and extremely efficient concierge at Cour des Loges
who knows if I would be here to tell the story
Book it: Double at Hotel Cour des Loges
DAY 12: From Lyon to ParisMILES TRAVELLED: 290HOURS SPENT IN CAR: FiveTOP DOG: Such was the hero’s welcome that Madame T received at the Mandarin Oriental Paris
even the Queen’s corgis would have been jealous
The staff addressed her as ‘Madame Tullah’
our suite had a special Madame T set-up and when we departed the doormen vied to be photographed with her
the Mandarin Oriental in ParisGROWLINGLY BAD: My Spotify singalong for most of the five-hour drive from Lyon to Paris
Good thing Madame T is deaf as a stone.ME TIME: Having lived in Paris a very long time ago
I had such fun revisiting my old haunts with Madame T in tow
Having a kip in the TuileriesWALKIES: From Rue St Honoré through Cour Napoléon of the Palais du Louvre over the Pont des Arts and onto Rue de Seine
where I lived all those lifetimes ago.WE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Suite 512 at the Mandarin Oriental
Paris in August is so overrun with tourists (hardly a word of French was heard on the streets) that after a few hours we retreated back to the peace and quiet of the hotel’s enormous camellia-scented courtyard garden and ordered a glass of rosé.MADAME T'S VERDICT: What better way to end our road trip than in five-star style
Madame T at the Mandarin Oriental in ParisBook it: Double at the Mandarin Oriental
DAY 13: Paris to LondonMILES TRAVELLED: First leg (Paris to Calais)
31.4 miles; third leg (Folkestone to Notting Hill)
A royal send-off from the Mandarin Oriental ParisTOP DOG: It’s the end of the road for us
We clocked 3,000 miles over four weeks in France
We spent 42 hours and 48 minutes in the car and came to the following conclusions: most cars on the road are white
Germans drive the fastest and having a left-hand-drive car in a right-hand-drive country is an incredible pain in the ass
Our final mileageMADAME T'S VERDICT: So it’s over and out for the first series of ‘Travels with Madame T’
I’d like to say a huge thanks to Lily's Kitchen for providing me with delicious sustenance for the trip
and The Paws for my Chillr PCM Cooling mat that kept me cool
calm and collected in the ferocious heat of Lucifer
I am dreaming of where to make Gerri take me for our next ‘Travels with Madame T’
Gerri and Madame T travelled to and from the continent on the Eurotunnel. To book, visit aferry.co.uk
Follow Gerri and Madame T's travels on Instagram
DAY EIGHT: From Le Puy-Sainte-Réparade to GrignanMILES TRAVELLED: 85HOURS SPENT IN CAR: 1 hour 30 minutes
Château GrignanTOP DOG: Leaving Villa La Coste was a wrench
so off we went to the dreaded A7 and its many tolls
VINCI Highways manages most of the motorways in France
and since today was the official beginning of the summer holidays
VINCI Highways goodie bagGROWLINGLY BAD: The first and only sip of the Tourtel Twist: bière sans alcool au jus de citron from the goodie bag
an exquisite 12th-century fortified village
Château de Grignan dominates the landscape with its bright-white Renaissance splendour
it’s really famous because Madame de Sévigné
including many to her daughter (the wife of the Count of Grignan)
From the russet-coloured tiled floors and the rose-clad trellis in the courtyard restaurant (with one-Michelin-starred chef Julien Allano at the helm) to the rustic Provençal fabrics
totally French.MADAME T’S VERDICT: My favourite bit
Lying on the small terrace outside our room while Gerri wrote this silly blog
Madame T at Le Clair de la PlumeBook it: Double at Le Clair de la Plume
DAY NINE: From Grignan to Tournon-sur-RhôneMILES TRAVELLED: 59HOURS SPENT IN CAR: 1 hour 10 minutesTOP DOG: Though I didn’t love the town
Hôtel de la Villeon is situated smack in the medieval part
and finding it involved another misadventure courtesy of my nemesis
Madame T and I are not travelling light: wherever we go
her food (which requires a coolbox)… We parked only three blocks away
but Waze cretin Kate took us on a 12-block goose chase
How cross was I when I finally pushed open the Villeon’s massive antique walnut door
this totally unexpected jewel box of a place – wooden floorboards
gilded chandeliers and carefully curated antiques – perked me up no end.GROWLINGLY BAD: The weather
the heatwave that has scorched most of southern Europe
being anywhere that isn’t a swimming pool or air-conditioned can be pretty miserable.WALKIES: Up
down and all around the 22,000 square feet of the terraced gardens built into the hill behind the hotel
The terraced gardens behind Hôtel de la VilleonFabien MarinelloWE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Room 4
Hôtel de la Villeon.MADAME T’S VERDICT: Much has been made of my ‘selective hearing’
because there was the most almighty thunderstorm that raged for two hours during the night
Book it: Double at Hôtel de la Villeon
who had said I should visit Saint-Montan (and Geraldene) to experience the true Ardèche
Geraldene has lived in Saint-Montan since 1988
and has been instrumental in the revitalisation and restoration of this 13th-century village
A better or more nimble tour guide I could not have asked for
She bounded up and around the rues en calade (sloping paved streets) like a mountain goat
Madame T with Geraldene Holt in Saint-MontanGROWLINGLY BAD: The surplus of middle-aged men in Lycra cycling two abreast on the twisty hill roads from the Ardèche to the Drôme to Provence.WALKIES: All around Saint-Montan
Room with a view at Hôtel Crillon Le BraveWE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Room 4
Practically all of this tiny hilltop village is the hotel: a cluster of nine old stone buildings of suites and rooms
restaurants and spectacular panoramic views of Provence
Treat yourself to dinner in Restaurant Jérôme Blanchet (either on the terrace or under the 16th-century vaulted stone ceiling inside)
His daurade royale (my favourite fish ever) marinated in lime and served with cucumber jelly and green shiso sorbet was unforgettable.MADAME T’S VERDICT: I rather fancied the champagne cocktail before dinner
Pre-dinner drinks at Crillon le BraveBook it: Double at Hotel Crillon Le Brave
Stay tuned for next week's instalment and follow Gerri and Madame T's travels on Instagram
DAYS FOUR TO SIX: From Abbaye de la Bussière (with a pitstop in Nîmes)
then onto Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle MILES TRAVELLED: 520HOURS SPENT IN CAR: 6.5 hours
Madame T at Tour Magne, NîmesTOP DOG: Nîmes! This is a city to make time for – it is small and enchanting, and ever-so-accessible when you have Richard and his golf cart whizzing you round the Roman ruins
are locals and together we set off with our dogs: Madame T and the Tognas’ shih-tzus: Ninja (black) and Taiko (blonde)
The highlight of the tour was visiting the 100ft-high Tour Magne – built around 15 BC – the largest of a chain of towers that once conveyed imperial power to the city’s four-mile-long Roman ramparts
Gerri and Madame T in Nîmes with the Tognas and their shih-tzus
Ninja and TaikoGROWLINGLY BAD: Not having had the foresight to book into Jardins Secrets
the most indescribably romantic 17th-century villa hotel nestled in a private garden
formerly of fashion and photography aristocracy
have curated antiques and objets d’art over the years
Their regulars say it all: Sting and Trudie
Lolita Lempicka and Mika.ME TIME: Sitting in the bougainvillea-strewn gardens of the aforementioned hotel
listening to the birds and sipping a glass of Château Puech Haut Tête de Bélier 2016 while Madame T pottered around the garden.WALKIES: Madame T was shattered from co-piloting Richard’s golf cart and fending off the amorous advances of Ninja and Taiko
General de Gaulle at Abbaye de la CelleWE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle
This Alain Ducasse stronghold was originally built in the 12th century by Benedictine monks
But it was the Benedictine nuns (who came later) that are best remembered for their very un-nun-like behaviour while in residence
So scandalous were their comings and goings that in 1660 Cardinal Mazarin closed it down
Four centuries and a few visits from General de Gaulle later (see photo)
tranquil hostellerie that is renowned for its food (what a surprise)
leaving Madame T in the Perpétue de la Celle suite – a good call
as there was a pesky cat skulking around that would have been catnip for Madame T
The result could have been upended tables and total carnage.MADAME T'S VERDICT: Damn
Book it: Double at L’Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle
On the lookout at La Bastide de MoustiersDAY SEVEN: Hostellerie de l’Abbaye de la Celle to La Bastide de MoustiersMILES TRAVELLED: 45HOURS SPENT IN CAR: 1 hour 22 minsTOP DOG: The drive from the first Ducasse property to the second Ducasse property
through the Parc Naturel Régional du Verdon with lakes the colour of the Caribbean.GROWLINGLY BAD: Le Mistral arrived – that cold
dry wind made famous by Peter Mayle in A Year in Provence
Madame T and I didn’t mind; it was a relief after the oppressive heat of the last few days (40 degrees)
But it was a nightmare for the staff at La Bastide de Moustiers
The winds were so strong dinner couldn’t be served on the terrace
and swimming was off limits.ME TIME: Wandering through the kitchen gardens and gorgeous knot garden on the grounds
Morning walk in Moustiers-Sainte-MarieWALKIES: Early in the morning
Madame T and I set off on foot for the hilltop village of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie (all this driving and eating isn’t doing anything for our waistlines)
The village was built on platform terraces 300ft or so up the side of the limestone cliff
a spring flowing out of it creating a waterfall
We had a wander – the village is known for its faience (fine
as well as the gold-painted star that hangs on a 700ft-long chain suspended between two cliffs
when the Saracens held the knight Bozon de Blacas prisoner
He vowed to hang a star over his village if he was able to return
No one knows how the star was originally hung there
one is still there.WE WERE DOG TIRED IN… La Bastide de Moustiers
one-bedroom cottage called Coquelicot (translation: Poppy) just down the gravel path from the main house and perfect for Madame T as she could sniff around the fields of lavender outside.MADAME T'S VERDICT: I am a true Provençal dog now
Book it: Double at La Bastide Moustiers
Madame T at Villa La CosteDAY EIGHT: From La Bastide de Moustiers to Villa La CosteMILES TRAVELLED: 60-plus thanks to my Waze app (see below)HOURS SPENT IN CAR: Almost 3 hours (ditto)TOP DOG: Arriving safe and soundGROWLINGLY BAD: Waze
our two satnavs – be it Google Maps or Waze – had served us well
may have the most appalling French pronunciation
she lost her mind and we lost our way BIG time
a suspiciously dodgy-looking single-track lane that dwindled to dirt
padlocked metal barrier with warnings that it was ONLY TO BE OPENED IN CASE OF FIRE BY THE FIRE DEPARTMENT
Turning back was impossible as there was no wiggle room
My only option was to off-road and pray that I could squeeze the car past the barrier without falling into the ravine to the right
but only just – after more tears and an almighty tumble taken when trying to assess the situation – I arrived at Villa La Coste bruised
bloody and a tiny bit hysterical.ME TIME: Not today
folks.WALKIES: Wandering through the forest of green oaks and Aleppo pines at Villa La Coste
installations and small-scale pavilions created by the rock stars of the art world: Tadao Ando
After that first half bottle at Villa La Coste...WE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Alpilles at Villa La Coste
Between the jaw-dropping views of Mont Ventoux
the marble bathtub the size of a splash pool and the canopied bed swathed in gauze
It’s everywhere… not only on the walk through the forest
even in the stairwells: a Tracey Emin sketch here
Leaving Villa La Coste in comfortMADAME T'S VERDICT: My particular favourite was the old-fashioned luggage cart-cum-wagon
[note]Book it: Suite at Villa La Coste
Madame T sleeping on the jobSo from the damp greenness of Oxfordshire we’re heading for the sun-scorched Côte d’Azur by way of Dijon
but she’s a dream in the car – mostly sleeping
but panting and yawning at me when she wants to make a pitstop
Aire-sur-la-LysMILES TRAVELLED: 226HOURS SPENT IN CAR: FiveTOP DOG: Our maiden voyage on the Eurotunnel and Madame T’s first foray out of the UK
I’m an old hand on the Eurostar but a Eurotunnel newbie
efficient and FAST.GROWLINGLY BAD: The realisation that my right-hand-drive car means that at EVERY toll I have to jump out
pay and dash back before drivers behind me wig out.ME TIME: No ‘me time’
I enlisted the help of a fellow motorist to assist with positioning the blooming headlamp converters
Gerri and Madame T outside Château de Moulin le ComteWE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Château de Moulin le Comte
an 1880s brick-and-stone building with a sweeping staircase
This charming former flourmill was renovated in 2011 by Francis Van der Elst
who runs it as a B&B with his son Cedric
Both are dab hands in the kitchen – you won’t find more meticulously julienned vegetables in all of France
They welcome all kinds of animals: dogs as big as ponies
even a snake on the odd occasion.WALKIES: The gardens here are big
so Madame T wandered and sniffed while I enjoyed a glass of rosé and celebrated not being behind the wheel.MADAME T'S VERDICT: Nine chihuahuas
Madame T chilling in BeauneDAYS TWO & THREE: From Château de Moulin Le Comte to Abbaye de la Bussière
plus a day in Beaune.MILES TRAVELLED: 378HOURS SPENT IN CAR: Five hours and 20 minutes
plus one and half hours to Beaune and backTOP DOG: The spectacular scenery of the Côte d'Or
between Dijon and La Bussière-sur-Ouche – bales of recently harvested wheat (fields of gold) and the albino whiteness of the Charolais cattle – and then on a day-trip to Beaune
with its eye-catching pitched rooftop and stone turrets covered in multicoloured tiles.GROWLINGLY BAD: The squat toilet on the A26
YUCK.ME TIME: Wanting to see something other than the A26
cobbled streets and colourful 16th-century half-timbered houses was just what I craved
as was the lobster and crab salad at Le Valentino
Madame T in her favourite pair of Jimmy ChoosWALKIES: Madame T is NOT a fan of cobbled streets
They hurt her feet (this from a dog who has been known to don a pair of Jimmy Choos
though – two hours of exploring the parkland at L’Abbaye de la Bussière and the banks of the neighbouring River Ouche was just the ticket.WE WERE DOG TIRED IN… Abbaye de la Bussière
a wowser of a place: formerly a 12th-century Cistercean abbey (lots of Gothic flourishes
stained glass) set in 15 acres of private parkland where two teeny Shetland ponies graze
Chef Guillaume Royer has gobbled up every award there is
But don’t miss the chance to stay; British owners Tanith and Clive Cummings have got everything spot on
Madame T having breakfast at Abbaye de la BussièreMADAME T'S VERDICT: This is heaven – more dogs than humans
I have met three Bouvier des Flandres on their way to St Tropez
They travel and sleep in a bespoke air-conditioned caravan while their owners stay in the hotel
Note to self: must have a word with Gerri..
Book it: PetsPyjamas offers one night at Abbaye de la Bussière
2015Save this storySaveSave this storySaveThe sky is especially bright outside of the Marseille airport
as evinced by the dozen or so travelers moored to the pavement beyond Arrivals
blinking in the sun and unable to believe their luck
They swat the in-flight croissant flakes from their trousers and move en masse to the car rental
where they will jump in convertibles in a swell of joie de vivre
The weather is so preternaturally good in Provence that locals and visitors alike conspire to live outside
their no-nonsense Lycra an odd contrast to the rustic countryside
pumping up hills and gliding through valleys
But the most rewarding hours in the open air will be spent at the dining table
spearing rabbit and prunes with the countryside swept out before you
Provence is sensibly rich in garden bistros and hillside dining
Le Jardin du Quai
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is a quiet riverside town known primarily for its Sunday antiques market
Near to the railway station is Le Jardin du Quai
a garden restaurant hidden from sight until you step through the wrought-iron doorway
lush greenery surrounds elegant outdoor tables
Waiters carry the single copy of the day’s no-choice menu around on a chalkboard
easing themselves between potted plants and garden sculptures
You’ll order a bottle of wine before tucking into a few pre-luncheon bites placed on the table: fresh radishes with butter
or olive tapenade smeared over chewy French bread
delivers three comforting courses for a set price
Spare ribs cooked in honey are tremulously tender
and an apricot and pistachio tart is gratifying and not overly sweet
The meal should take a few hours and as many bottles of Gigondas
concluding with strong espresso and a lick on the hand from Scooby
La Petite Maison de Cucuron
The approach to the medieval village of Cucuron is on a winding road through the verdant and mountainous Luberon region
and it would be wise to build in time for gaping
La Petite Maison is run out of an inviting yellow house with blue shutters located in the center of town
guests are seated on the ivy-covered terrace
where there is a choice of two menus—€50 for three courses or €70 for five—and an excellent
The food is luxurious and approachable; the restaurant holds a Michelin star
A bowl of buttery chanterelles is served in parsley sauce with a gently poached egg
topped with a small mountain of summer truffle shavings
executed well with ingredients at their peak
he might join you for coffee and a chat about the goings-on in the village
Le Mas Tourteron
Before setting out for this wonderful restaurant
located a few miles past the hilltop town center of Gordes (one of the most-photographed communities in Provence
prepare yourself for the final stretch of the journey
when you will rumble down a country road and feel certain you missed a turn
Drive two minutes past the point at which you are sure you’re lost and there you’ll find the arched entrance to Le Mas Tourteron
stretched out in front of an 18th-century farmhouse obscured by vines
There are spare sun hats hanging from a mulberry tree and fellow patrons dressed in graceful French country neutrals
Elisabeth Bourgeois has been the chef-owner of Le Mas Tourteron since the late ’80s and maintains a formidable reputation throughout France
When she walks out of the kitchen to check on the guests
who are murmuring over zucchini flowers stuffed with guinea fowl
manages the wine list and guides diners to bottles of local Grenache and loftier vintages of Bordeaux
The intimacy and setting make for a meal of rare loveliness
to include Le Bistro du Paradou on this open-air list
because meals generally only begin and end on the sunny roadside terrace
The middle three courses are served in a homey restaurant with chic tile floors and long wooden tables
you will be seated outside with a dish of green olives and asked if you would like a glass of something
though if you decide to move directly to wine—it is included in the €49 set price—a bottomless bottle of the house red or white will appear
you’ll wander inside for a plate of ratatouille and then possibly roasted rabbit pierced with rosemary sprigs or Bresse chicken with homemade fettuccine and morels
so phone ahead to hear the week’s offerings before making a reservation
In preparation for the magnificent cheese course
you’ll find your bread basket refreshed and your wineglass topped up
and golden raisins soaked in Cognac (give these particular attention) will remain on the table until someone else calls for it
it is the moment to return to the terrace for dessert (order whichever homemade tart is on offer) and espresso
and perhaps another glass of Pastis to bookend the visit
it will spoil you for most other restaurants
Provence boasts many hotels with superb dining. One of the best is Hotel Crillon le Brave
perched atop a steep hill and home to Restaurant Jérôme Blanchet
dinner is served on a spectacular terrace with far-reaching views of the French countryside
and dishes are refined but sumptuous—foie gras with black figs and lavender honey; scorpion fish over chanterelles and apricots
The bedrooms are serene and luxurious; quite a few are blessed with the same view of the countryside that the restaurant affords
and it is worth asking for one of these when booking
a very good club sandwich on the room-service menu—for those evenings when you find yourself returning from lunch at 9 p.m
Wout Van Aert’s fourth Tour de France victory in three consecutive editions was a special one
On Wednesday he soloed away from his breakmates on the stage’s second climb of the Giant of Provence
leap up to 13th in the GC and take over second spot in the mountains classification
Van Aert was second in Tuesday’s bunch sprint
with Van Aert’s young Danish teammate Jonas Vindegaard dropping all his top-5 rivals including yellow jersey Pogačar to jump onto the podium
Pogačar now leads the race by 5:18 over Rigoberto Uran instead of 2:02 over Ben O’Connor
Rusty Woods was looking strong for the first two-thirds of the second assault of Ventoux and
At nearly 200 km and with two assaults of the Giant of Provence
Wednesday’s route was a formidable one
The second climb of Ventoux was from the classic side and was 25.7 km of 8.7 percent
The descent to Malaucène was the same 20 km drop as from the first climb
Stage 10 of #TDF2021
The big story is that today the peloton will climb not once, but twice the infamous Mont Ventoux. pic.twitter.com/Gg1eAvAlSI
— Deceuninck-QuickStep (@deceuninck_qst) July 7, 2021
Several attacks flared away soon after the depart in Sorgues
Julian Alaphilippe was part of something that stuck and bounced over Côte de Fontaine-de-Vaucluse and Côte de Gordes first
his foursome was a minute ahead of a chase group of 13 containing Van Aert and 3:00 ahead of the peloton
? Le soleil sort, l'arc-en-ciel aussi. #TDF2021 pic.twitter.com/fPs7c1z3ci
— Tour de France™ (@LeTour) July 7, 2021
Of all the riders in the break and the chase
Anthony Perez (France/Cofidis) had the most King of the Mountain points–seven to classification leader Nairo Quintana’s 50
But it was Irishman Dan Martin (Israel Start-up Nation) who grabbed 10 at the top of Liguière
Five minutes behind at the back of the peloton
10th place David Gaudu was sick on his bike and the polka dot jersey Quintana was distanced
Alaphilippe attacked to streamline the breakaway and then crested first
The Alaphilippe-Van Aert breakaway hit the foot of the harder side of Ventoux with a 4:30 lead on the peloton
There were three Trek-Segafredo riders in the octet
and they were thinking about Bauke Mollema’s prospects
#TDF2021, Stage 11. King Kenny attacks! ? pic.twitter.com/G4Wz2WA97s
— ammattipyöräily (@ammattipyoraily) July 7, 2021
Mollema dropped Alaphilippe in the attempt to reach the leading duo
Ineos’ pace was thinning out the numbers
was the next to break in the yellow jersey group
It seemed with a 3:17 gap back his closest podium rival he was safe
?? @WoutvanAert is storming ahead at the front with just over 6km left until the second Mont Ventoux summit
?? @WoutvanAert réalise un grand numéro ! Il est toujours en tête et ne perd pas de temps sur le groupe Maillot Jaune.#TDF2021 pic.twitter.com/H448FmtVwC
— Tour de France™ (@LeTour) July 7, 2021
Woods finally submitted to the pace of the group
Eight fellows remained before Enric Mas and Michal Kwiatkowski fell away
After Uran moved to the front of the group
Richard Carapaz and Uran couldn’t hang
The Dane crested 38 seconds ahead of Pogačar and close behind the Trek duo
Uran and Pogačar hunted down one Jumbo-Visma man
but another fellow in the same kit raised his arms in victory 1:38 ahead of the elite foursome
who only lost 18-seconds to the Pogačar foursome
jumped up to sixth and seventh respectively as the expense of Mas
Thursday’s 160 km stage is full of little unclassified climbs
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A short drive from Avignon, the Sunday market in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is the largest outdoor market in the South of France, encompassing around 300 stalls where you can discover everything from fine antiques to local sunflowers. Known as the “Venice of Provence”, the town is stunning, too. The roads are shaded by plane trees, historic waterwheels line the river, and a wealth of cafés and restaurants make perfect spots for al fresco dining.
Rebecca Hessel Cohen in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue.
Most famous for its embroidered French linens, Edith Mezard’s wares are sold from Château de L’Ange, which has a lush private garden in the back. You will be tempted to fill basket after basket with monogrammed napkins and sheets.
In the village of Vallabrègues, Benoit Rauzy and Anthony Watson, the owners of the 18-century hôtel particulier Atelier Vime, have personally devoted themselves to reviving the once-thriving local wicker industry. Their broad selection of vintage furniture is exquisite, with pieces by the likes of Janine Abraham and Tito Agnoli, along with perfect objects made in their own workshop.
The brocante of Villeneuve-lès-Avignon takes place every Saturday morning within the old medieval city – consistently delivering an eclectic mix of pottery, glassware, furniture, and silver. Look out, too, for the wine- and barrel-making tools. Again, get there at dawn to get the best picks.
Every Wednesday morning, Saint-Remy transforms into a bustling market. Go early to beat the crowds; this is one of the most popular markets in the region, and you will be jostling alongside locals for beautiful tablecloths, exquisite ceramics, market dresses, and more. The displays of food, meanwhile, are as photogenic as they are tempting; expect piles of olives, magnificent cheese wheels, mounds of saucisson, and more.
Last Updated on 3rd March 2023 by Sophie Nadeau
The delightful market town of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue lies alongside the river Sorgue in rural Provence and is a must-see for antique lovers
for those who wish to experience an authentic Provence market
or even just those who love quaint destinations in Southern France
Here’s your guide to the best things to do in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
while L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is the official name of the town
people often just say L’Isle-sur-Sorgue for short and the names are used interchangeably
The Provençal town is located in the Vaucluse department of the region of Provence and boasts a population of around 26,0000 inhabitants
The destination is close to Fontaine de Vaucluse and is particularly famous for its Sunday market
as well as being one of the top spots in France to go searching for vintage treasures and antiques
There are so many amazing finds to be discovered
that the town is often touted as the ‘European antiques capital’
The many canals and waterways snaking their way through town have led to the nickname ‘Venice of the Comtat’
L’Isle-sur-Sorgue is also where the poet René Char was born
The town began life as a little fishing village and gained its name due to the fact that the town is quite literally on its own little island in the middle of the River Sorgue
If there’s one thing that visitors to the area shouldn’t miss
it’s the sprawling Sunday market that takes place on a weekly basis
Over 300 vendors sell everything from local Provençal ceramics and pottery to local fruits and vegetable to bread and every other Provence food stuff you can think of
As well as the antiques market and regular market
there are a number of permanent shops where you can go shopping for unique souvenirs to bring home from your Provence trip
Some of the best things to purchase include woven baskets
As well as pop-up brocantes up and down the streets in the areas which aren’t hosting the traditional market stalls
there are countless shops and back alleys filled with antique shops and vintage stores
The antique district of the Provence town is split into five distinctive shopping villages
the International Antiques Fair which takes place twice a year
If you do choose to visit, be sure to head to the market with cash as not all sellers accept card payments- and be sure to barter for a better price! For more information about antique fairs in France, check out our French brocantes guide
The Notre-Dame-des-Anges Collegiate Church (Our Lady of Angels Church) stands at pride of place in the very heart of the old town and is a particularly unique blend of Baroque meets Southern Gothic
though wasn’t consecrated until 1222
Free to visit (though donations are always welcome)
the interior boasts painted frescoes and grand vaulted ceilings
The ecclesiastical building has been listed as a historic monument since 1911
Yet another breathtaking monument worth a closer look is the Tour d’Argent
which is translated into English as the ‘Silver Tower’
The name refers to not only to a tower dating back to the 12th-century
but also to an islet of the same name which showcases several medieval buildings
Like many destinations in more rural areas of France
one of the primary ways to soak up the ambiance of L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is to stroll around the town and allow it to reveal itself to you
Little canals meander alongside cobbled streets to create a town that appears to have been plucked straight out of a postcard
The force of the Sorgue was useful in industry in a time before electricity
Water wheels were used to power spinning mills and mill grain
There were once as many as 66 wheels in Isle sur la Sorgue
A smattering of water wheels which were once used to mill grain
spin wool from sheep from the Vaucluse mountains
and make paper can still be seen across the town today
the Café de France is one of the most historic and presitigious eateries in town
and not just because it lies in the shadow of the Collegiate Church
The history of the oldest brasserie and bistro of the Isle is long and fascinating and was truly immortalised by the Parisian photographer Willy Ronis in the 1970s
The town boasts no fewer that five museums
each with their own unique exhibits attracting varying crowds
Museums include La Filaventure (museum of the Brun de Viantiran textile factory)
and La Fondation Villa Datris (a collection dedicated to contemporary art)
Though there are few green spaces to be found around town (the surrounding Provençal countryside more than makes up for this fact)
the one quaint green space is located on the fringes of Isle sur la Sorgue and can be easily strolled through if you’re looking to get a little break from the crowds
As one of the biggest towns in the Vaucluse area
L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue has no shortage of restaurants to suit plenty of different diets and price ranges
From fine dining to picking up a snack on the go
there’s something for everyone to enjoy
For those looking for a lite bite to eat (think quiches
you need to look no further than the L’instant Appy
Complete with its own little terraced courtyard at the back
it’s the perfect place to stop for a little drink or snack
While certainly not the best food we tried in Provence
the meal at Restaurant Bella Vita was perfectly acceptable and catered well for our group which included several vegetarians and vegans
A cute little café offering dining options right by the river in the heart of the antiques section of town
the establishment serves up traditional French dishes overlooking the water
If you’re planning to visit Provence, then I highly recommend renting a car for ease of access and because local transportation can often be labelled as patchy at best. This will also allow you to visit more off the beaten path places. Check here for the car rental comparison prices.
When it comes to parking in Isle sur la Sorgue
this can often present as a little bit of a challenge
particularly on market days when the town is teeming with tourists and locals alike
You can expect to have to queue to find a space
There are two paid car parks in the centre of town (address of the one we parked at: 145-183 Chem
The town itself is not accessible by car and so you’ll have to walk around to visit most of the top attractions
Wear comfortable footwear as there are lots of cobblestones
There is also a little tourist train that we didn’t have time to take but does loops of the town during high season
Known locally as ‘Le Petit Train’ (the little train)
commentary is available in English or French and a loop takes 35 to 40 minutes
Enjoyed reading about the best of L’Isle sur Sorgue
Sophie Nadeau is a full time travel writer and photographer focused on cultural experiences in Europe and beyond
When she's not chasing after the sunset (or cute dogs she sees on her travels) she can be found reading
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I started this site back in 2015 with one mission in mind: I wanted to create useful travel guides with a historical and cultural focus
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