At UKC/UKH we are all experienced internet users and as such we understand why some people want to use Ad Block to remove annoying and distracting advertising that proliferates on some web sites We don't feel that UKC/UKH should be considered as such a site We have developed a site that has subtle and appropriate advertising; we don't use pop-ups we don't force you to read adverts before you can see content and we don't use third party ad servers dishing up totally inappropriate advertising We have worked incredibly hard over the years to make sure that we keep a good balance between advertising and editorial content Please could you consider disabling Adblock when visiting UKC/UKH has made the first ascent of La Révolutionnaire at Gros Sablons he climbed it barefoot and what's interesting is that he says he thinks it harder with shoes than without Probably it's once again a problem where it's possible to stuff a toe or two into a pocket or slot which is useless with shoes on This was also the case on Charles' direct version of Guillaume Glairon Mondet's Le Pied à Coulisse where he eliminated six moves and climbed a very different line Charles Albert is a legendary French climber famous for climbing barefoot His local area is Fontainebleau where he has climbed many of the hardest problems and performed many first ascents Charles Albert has climbed his project at Rocher Brule in Fontainebleau and given it a grade of Font 9A French magazine Grimper broke the news in their latest issue and state that Charles named the problem No Kpote Only Charles Albert has made the first ascent of La revolutionnaire assis at Gros Sablons Charles Albert has repeated Fred Nicole's Monkey Wedding Everything seems to be happening in Fontainebleau at the moment and especially at Apremont. Today, Charles Albert made the 4th ascent of L'Alchimiste (f8B+) He did it by Marc LeMenestrel's original unrepeated left exit Charles suggests this version is around 8B+ in difficulty Perhaps he has caught the attention of a shoe brand has made the first ascent of La Révolutionnaire at Gros Sablons,.. Charles Albert has climbed his project at Rocher Brûlé in Fontainebleau and given it a grade of Font 9A. French magazine Grimper broke the news in their latest issue and state that Charles named the problem No Kpote Only. This is only the second problem at the grade of 9A after Nalle Hukkataival climbed Burden of Dreams (f9A) in 2016 Charles is well known for climbing without rock shoes and has climbed most of Font's hardest problems barefoot He spent 20 sessions on No Kpote Only and believes that relative to the 8Cs he has climbed the problem must be 9A In the past few years, Charles has gone on a rampage in the forest. In 2016, he repeated Guillaume Glarion-Mondet's Le Pied à Coulisse (8C) at Rocher Gréau. The year after, he climbed Fontainebleau's first 8C+ an extension to his own problem La Révolutionnaire he climbed a sit start to Hypothesis at Bas Cuvier which he also graded 8C+ Here is a video of Albert working No Kpote Only in February 2018 I wonder if his feet are as callused as your average climber's hands Where he falls off is about mid way through an 7C or 8A (depending on who you ask) that Charle's new line finishes up If you can bear to sit through the offensive music, this video shows the top of the boulder from about 12 minutes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG6xzlYepIo&feature=youtu.be&t=724 Charles has pretty good track record (numerous 8C's but Nalle has a bit more extensive track record.. he took over 400 sessions (plus specific training) his track record just isn't the same as Nalle's.. and now to climb this grade in just 20 sessions (vs Let's just hope that some people now repeat this.. I know that already quite a few strong lads have tried Burden (Webb AFAIK not so much with the high end FAs from Charles (albeit and AFAIK he usually hasn't given many soft touches) that 'Bleau does have a much longer season for hard climbing.. I recall Nalle's words that he had like 10-20 sessions each spring & fall so basically he had to "start" from scratch each spring/fall.. in a pretty much one "season" (compared to 20 to 40 Please consider becoming a registered user This is a great help to UKC and gives you access to all these great features: Already registered? Login We keep your data private Charles Albert has made the first ascent of L'Ombre du Voyageur (The Traveler's Shadow) According to grimper.com the boulder is ten metres long and follows a crack through the roof of a cave on Mont Salève Albert established Voyageur Face à la Mer de Nuage (Traveler Facing the Sea of Clouds) an 8B boulder which accounts for the final third of the roof crack Albert was able to link the full ten metre line together for the first ascent climbing the boulder in his preferred style - barefoot and without knee pads Albert on an unsuccessful attempt earlier in the year although more overhanging than both - and secondly the fact that his decision to climb without shoes and knee pads makes things harder rather than easier The report further suggests that Albert in fact regards the boulder as closer to 9A+ when climbed in his preferred style but decided that because shoes and knee pads would undeniably make the route easier even while scraping heel hooks and jamm[ing] knees that this long ceiling is of comparable difficulty to the 8C+ that he knows' This is not Albert's first 9A proposal, having suggested 9A for his 2018 boulder No Kpote Only (f8C+) only for Ryohei Kameyama to repeat the boulder and suggest 8C+ and for Nico Pelorson to repeat and suggest a further downgrade to 8C Check out our newsflash on Albert's 2018 ascent of No Kpote Only including footage of him working the boulder Looks like he could do with a shoe & pad sponsor I guess the article should say without kneebar pads it looks like he uses a kneebar in that video What is meant by far closer in length to Hubble than Burden of Dreams something like: hubble is 10 meters of height difference between start and finish appreciably more than 10m total climbing distance) burden of dreams is significantly fewer than ten moves in total "Barefoot Charles" has made the first ascent of Délire Onirique assis and this makes Charles' remark "easy 8c for tall dudes" interesting as Kevin is exactly that This was Charles' second of the grade after La Révolutionnaire, which he put up last month