the pebbles warm underfoot like dying coals On the road to Palionisos beachLavinia CernauWith a grey beard ponytail and tan as permanent as the twinkle in his eye Stathis Klimis is the teacher everyone wishes they had Giving physics lessons at a local comprehensive is only one of his many talents a role I imagine he performs with the same enthusiasm and attention to detail he applies while steering me and my guide through an underground cave early one evening Kazavoulis exemplifies the younger generations of Kalymniots who no longer live off the sea he managed to stay away for a decade before nostalgia a sense of belonging – or simply common sense – brought him home again Entrance to Panteleimon cave churchLavinia CernauKlimis leads the way down an iron ladder nailed to the vertical shaft that forms the entrance to the cave From there we walk or lower ourselves by rope down slippery rocks beneath dripping domes and through a couple of tight squeezes Our headlamps provide the only light source though its stalactites are growing only a few thousandths of an inch per year Klimis points out the dried guano between our feet the bats either long gone or perhaps observing us silently from the crannies above our heads A circular route known only to him – this is no signposted show cave – brings us back to the iron ladders as the sun disappears behind the western tip of the island and crickets chirp in the warm night Bay of EmporiosLavinia CernauNot too long ago Kalymnos was one of the main centres of the lucrative sponge fishing industry – a history that’s well documented in the island’s various small and quirky museums Once the Aegean was depleted of its sponges Kalymniot divers searched for harvest grounds further out in the Mediterranean on missions that lasted for months at a time There was little regard for safety or knowledge of the science of diving Extremely high death rates and maiming from the bends were acceptable risks in the face of the financial rewards which were significant for decades until overfishing and the arrival of the artificial sponge put the industry into decline but these days most young Kalymniots who succumb to the allure of the sea (and there’s a lot of them) join the merchant navy Greece has one of the largest merchant fleets in the world and you are still likely to arrive by ferry via its noisier neighbour dodging its madding crowds and holiday reps the sheer limestone cliffs of Kalymnos caught the eye of an Italian tourist who also happened to be a rock climber He returned the following year to open the first routes The island was highly regarded by those in the know so its reputation grew steadily and then exploded when The North Face clothing brand launched its first climbing festival there in 2012 with more than 4,000 routes of various levels of difficulty on offer Kalymnos is considered one of the best destinations for the sport in the world heading up towards the Monastery of Agios Savvas where I make a brief stop to see the silver coffin of the local monk canonised by the Orthodox Church in the 1990s an elderly nun sweats under her heavy habit as she whispers the prayer of the Sixth Hour an understated coastal village in the south I’m not there for the quiet tree-lined beach or the two restaurants but when I reach the small Sea World Museum Vlichadia beachLavinia CernauJust as I’m pondering leaving I see a figure making a beeline for me from one of the packed restaurants son of the late founder of this private museum He is happy to let me in before he returns to serving his customers and I’m left to explore the agreeably ramshackle exhibits alone a heap of petrified amphorae from an ancient shipwreck and the wheel of a German Messerschmitt Bf 109 fighter plane that crashed off Kalymnos during the Second World War When Valsamidis returns to let me out and lock up he speaks proudly of his father’s passion for all things maritime and the collection that took him more than 40 years to build I don’t manage to get to Traditional Kalymnian House at Vothyni but I hear it is a favourite of the historian Mary Beard Display at Traditional Kalymnian HouseLavinia CernauThe boat to the little island of Telendos leaves from Myrties A community clustered around a single flat-topped mountain that rises vertiginously from the sea it has no roads – just a few one- and two-storey whitewashed houses a handful of tavernas serving perennial Greek dishes View of Telendos islandLavinia CernauBack in Kalymnos the next day I have a similar experience in the picturesque creek of Vathi a village known for its calm crystalline swimming situated where a valley meets a winding narrow inlet on the eastern side of the island It’s midday and I can hear the creaking of mooring ropes in the little harbour and my footsteps in the maze of alleyways Initially I feel a little sorry for the seemingly forlorn souvenir shops restaurants and stalls selling hot apple loukoumades – until a pirate-style boat from Kos stops off and dramatically shifts the tone Loukoumades with honeyLavinia CernauAffronted by this sudden surge I surrender the village to the vessel’s day trippers and make the short drive to the hills above the valley to look for the church of Panagia Kyra Psili I continue on foot along an uneven narrow path built partly inside the sheer cliff looming above its name recalls Le Corbusier’s Notre-Dame du Haut Whoever built this 18th-century mountain chapel shared the Swiss architect’s instinctive sense of the relationship between landscape and spirituality View of Vathi portLavinia CernauThe door is tied with rope with a request to rope it up again once I leave bowing not in supplication but to avoid knocking my head on the low ceiling and I do feel a certain meekness as I wander around the rooms and stand at the altar built inside a small whitewashed cave in the rock the breeze is fresh and the view is of the east side of the island For a moment the faraway report of a hunter’s shotgun intrudes and in solitude I feel suspended halfway between earth and heaven Kalymnos MK villaLavinia CernauWhere to stayFive Star Greece’s Kalymnos MK villa (from about £4,785 per week) hidden from the main road on a hillside near Skalia in the island’s northwest is an airy one-storey home containing three double bedrooms a pool and wide verandas roofed with dry reed and scented by the garden’s indigenous herbs Steps lead down to a private beach that has views of the nearby island of Telendos Lunch at Aegean TavernLavinia CernauWhere to eatBy the little harbour in Melitsahas Anna’s is a family-run taverna serving sea urchin salad with tables spilling out onto the waterfront To Kapsouli is the pick of a crop of geranium-filled seafood tavernas – a place for octopus salads simple fresh shrimp and chilled mastiha liqueur as the lights of Melitsahas gleam across the strait with its little lanes of neo-classical mansions Mamouzelos is one of the island’s more creative seafood restaurants best eaten with a harbour view across the street from the main restaurant but for the knockout views across the water to Telendos Be one of the first to try our new activity feed This wasn’t climber Mitch Kelly’s first rodeo on DNA (7a/5.11d) in the Grande Grotta area of Kalymnos But it was his first whip on the pumpy route As he worked his way up the steep limestone Kelly says he was “being a bit sloppy” with his foot placement but the high foot placement was quite polished his foot on the polished placement “popped.” Kelly’s belayer was also much lighter than him Kelly explains that the base of the crag is on a gradient “She wasn’t belaying directly below the route,” Kelly says “but a few meters to the side.” This combined with all the slack he’d taken for the clip led to a big fall where Kelly met his partner in the air and close to the ground “It was a mixture of poor outcomes,” Kelly says “Luckily everything worked out okay.” To prevent a whip of this magnitude, it’s always a good idea to set up a ground anchor for a belayer who’s significantly lighter than you—especially if you think there’s a chance you’ll fall. Here’s another Weekend Whipper case in point that drives home that lesson "The Nutcracker" explores the mental challenges of solo climbing and the tactics Cornell used to help him send the route This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks The action you just performed triggered the security solution There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked Please include what you were doing when this page came up and the Cloudflare Ray ID found at the bottom of this page A 15-year-old suffered serious injuries to his right hand while handling a flare at the port of Kalymnos island the injured teen was initially transferred to the port of Kos and then airlifted to KAT General Hospital in Attica The boy’s guardians were arrested by the Kalymnos Port Authority which is conducting the preliminary investigation into the incident Enter your information below to receive our weekly newsletters with the latest insights opinion pieces and current events straight to your inbox From the gastronomic specialties of Sifnos to the enigmatic ruins of the Dodecanese each Greek island has its own distinct character There’s a Greek island to suit every traveller — if you know where to look Here we reveal the best islands in Greece.Photograph by Chris Mouyiaris AWL ImagesByNational Geographic Traveller (UK)March 17 2025•30 min readThis article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).From the gastronomic isles of the Cyclades to the enigmatic ruins of the Dodecanese each of the six main Greek island groups has its own distinct character look closely and you’ll find that more unites than sets them apart: there are secluded towns loved by local gourmands hidden coves brimming with mythical associations and a natural splendour that’s captured the minds of artists and adventurers through the ages it was Poseidon who seized a chunk of Kos and hurled it on top of a fiery Titan called Polyvotis — creating the volcanic island of Nisyros but travellers can still walk across its warm crust — it last erupted in 1888 and is carefully monitored It can be visited on a day trip from nearby Kos but it’s worth sticking around to explore the island’s little capital with its colourful houses and Byzantine churches; the nearby thermal spring at Loutra; and the lofty village of Emporios natural cave sauna and mesmerising views over the caldera as the island has retained its old-world charm Wander the ruins of the Byzantine town of Kastro or head east to Vathys and its fjord-like valley  Kalymnos is the centre of rock climbing in the Greek islands.Photograph by photobac, Getty Images3. Kos: Pedal the ‘bicycle island’Greece’s ‘bicycle island’, Kos has over 6,500 bikes to hire and is also crisscrossed with cycling trails including a new eight-mile path that takes in the coast When Kos’s Italian colonisers departed in 1943 One of the best sights to explore by bike are the ruins of Asklepion two miles outside Kos Town and easy to reach on two wheels which is arranged in terraces along the hillside But you don’t have to be a keen cyclist to enjoy Kos — the island is also generously endowed with sandy beaches Ottoman and Italian architecture set beneath clouds of fuchsia bougainvillea the residents of Tilos built their homes inland when the villagers of Mikro Chorio found their wells running dry they decided to relocate to the island’s port area — taking their roofs the only signs that Mikro Chorio ever existed were the whitewashed church and fawn-coloured stone walls which snake over the hillside and act as a playground for goats one ruined home has been renovated and turned into an atmospheric summer bar a shuttle bus runs here from nearby Livadia — and the sound of chatter and clinking glasses once again fills this ghostly village The island of Rhodes is best known for two historic sites — walled Old Rhodes Town built by the crusading Knights of St John; and Lindos a pretty 15th-century sea captains’ town set beneath an ancient and the fact it receives over 300 days of sunshine each year If you can tear yourself away from the sea a refreshing woodland oasis in the north east of the island a tall waterfall and pine-shaded hiking trails await and there’s a taverna frequented by roaming peacocks little-known Symi beckons day-trippers from nearby Rhodes with its neoclassical set in a small settlement on the opposite corner of the island Linking the two through the forested interior are some near-forgotten mule paths which fell into disuse after a road running the length of the island was paved in the 1960s Choose to spend a few days in this Dodecanese destination and walk these storied dirt roads — at times hardly more than a suggestion of a trail — to get to viewpoints rarely reached by foreign visitors (Why you should go hiking in Symi, Greece.) to get a feel for Olympos’s old-world magic and don’t miss a traditional laouto (lute) performance in the taverna with which you can explore the secret inlets (How to spend a week sailing around Greece's Ionian islands.) is something you can do on stretches of most Greek islands a seven-mile by two-and-a-half-mile blot off the south coast of Corfu means it can be circled in its entirety in just a few hours This makes it perfect for beach-hopping and the chance to discover a number of Greece’s most secluded coves — some lined with olive and cypress trees others barely wide enough for a couple of towels Summer days in this corner of the Ionian are mostly spent dropping anchor at whichever one takes your fancy stretching out beneath the sun on the deck then cooling off by diving straight into the water (Why you should try beach-hopping by boat around Paxos, Greece.) (Alternative Cofu, from deserted beaches to wild backroads.) The biggest Ionian island, mountainous and green like a vast turtle’s shell, is surrounded by cliffs and coves — including the deep blue Melissani Cave on the east coast — and many of them are only accessible from the sea. In a kayak you can paddle between the beaches at leisure Melissani Cave in Kefalonia is a stunning natural wonder known for its underground lake and striking blue waters.Photograph by Discover Greece13 The Greek sea god Poseidon is said to have sat on Mount Fengari here — at 1,664m the second highest in the Aegean — to watch the Trojan War numerous pilgrims would make the difficult voyage here to worship at the Sanctuary of the Cabeiri this temple complex was home to a mystery religion and very little is known about its secret rites and historical figures are thought to have been members — among them Philip II of Macedon a 10-minute drive along the coast to the east for its hot springs and nearby waterfalls so bucolic you’d almost expect to come across a nymph the Greek islands are also home to one of Europe’s only deserts its soft dunes constantly shifting with the wind The best way to explore it is by hiring a 4WD in the capital Myrina itself was named after the Queen of the Amazons — the  island is believed to have once been the home of the warrior women visited by the Argonauts — and you can spend hours exploring its traditional coffeeshops and colourful harbour a settlement thought to be older than nearby Troy on the Turkish mainland  Lemnos has colourful harbours — and Greece's only desert.Photograph by Discover Greece15 It is known for lying in a Blue Zone — an area where people have a longer healthier life expectancy — with about one in three living into their 90s ranging from the healthy local diet to the lack of stress but visit this island between May and September and it’s likely you’ll discover one more — nobody wants to miss the next paniyiri The island’s saint’s day festivals happen almost daily in different villages Fuelled by the island’s heady natural wine they involve all ages dancing in unison together — placing their hands on each other’s shoulders and spiralling in time to traditional violins (Explore Ikaria, Greece's island of immortals.) and learn about the drink’s history and the variety of Greek herbs that go into making it and some are difficult to find beyond the island so it’s also where you’ll find the best opportunities for tastings Order with water on the side to observe the famous ‘ouzo effect’ — despite both liquids being clear when combined the result turns milky-white (Why you should seek out vinsanto, Santorini's beloved dessert wine.) Blooming bougainvillea cover the village of Pyrgos once the capital of Santorini.Photograph by Manuta known as the Greek blues and often featuring soulful lyrics on migration has roots in the years of mass unemployment following the Greece-Turkey Population Exchange in 1923 and live performances still ring out from bars on balmy nights here especially during the summer Rebetiko Festival with its Catholic and Orthodox hilltop neighbourhoods marble-paved Miaoulis Square and opera house Don’t miss its speciality loukoumia (Turkish delight) introduced to the island by refugees from the then-Ottoman ruled islands of Chios and Psara where farmers have produced organic fruit and vegetables for generations according to traditional Cycladic methods (Discover the flavours of Sifnos, Greece's gourmet island.) Visitors can learn Greek cooking at Narlis Farm in Sifnos The farm has grown organic produce for generations.Photograph by Issy CrokerA plate of fresh local cheese and vegetables o Sifnos.Photograph by Issy Croker20 Tinos: Embark on a food weekendIn recent years Cycladic Tinos has become famous among Greeks as an island of gastronomy Blessed with fertile land and a resulting bounty of locally grown produce it’s a magnet for chefs from nearby Athens who’ll often leave their city restaurants in the warmer months to head here a festival of gastronomy celebrated each year in the second week of May marks the beginning of the season of indulgence Come to join in the summer feast: start the morning sipping silty Greek coffee with a crispy filo pastry; recharge mid-afternoon with an acai bowl of wild strawberries; and round the day up trying local specialities from fourtalia — a fluffy omelette made with potatoes — to louza (How to plan a food weekend on the Greek island of Tinos.) the ancient theatre and the replica of the Venus de Milo marking the spot where the original was found Sarakiniko beach on Milos, with its moonscape of white rocks, could have been designed by Dalí.Photograph by SHansche, Getty Images22. Naxos: Find the marblesFine, white marble has been quarried and sculpted on Naxos since prehistoric times; the archaeology museum in the Venetian castle on top of Naxos Town is packed with remarkably well-preserved marble Cycladic idols from 3200-2300 BCE were abandoned when flaws in the marble were discovered: today Naxos has a relaxed and family-friendly vibe with walking trails and swathes of sand south of Naxos Town whose fish-rich waters and shipwrecks are exciting terrain for experienced divers Poros is so close to the Peloponnese that the 400-metre-wide channel separating the two is nicknamed Greece’s Grand Canal A favourite past time in pretty Poros Town is lingering in a waterfront taverna and watching all the ships pass by including ferries zipping across to Galatas Near there is a lemon forest that becomes intoxicating in May when the trees are in bloom and the citrusy scent drifts across the channel on the breeze hike up to the pretty blue-and-white clocktower in Poros Town for views over the lemon forests is filled with neoclassical former captains’ mansions black-and-white pebble mosaics and horse-drawn carriages Visitors can cycle to the beaches — many sandy — and later dine in the bars and restaurants in the Old Harbour  The pretty island Spetses was once a retreat for wealthy Athenians.Photograph by JRNY Magazine Aegina: Trace ancient GreeceOutside of Athens surviving ancient peristyle temples are rare in Greece but you can find a beautiful one just an hour from Piraeus by ferry — the Temple of Aphaia Isolated on a pine-covered hill overlooking the island’s biggest beach resort the temple was built around 500 BCE — decades before the Parthenon it was stripped of its marble friezes by antiquarians Aegina has many other feathers in its cap: pretty Aegina Town where the scent of roasting pistachios fills the air A remnant of this can be explored at the Archaeological Site of Kolona nearby which contains the ruins of the Temple of Apollo can be found to the east above Agios Nektarios built for the most recent Greek Orthodox saint the two-and-a-half-millennia-old Temple of Aphaia offers impressive Doric architecture and panoramic vistas.Photograph by zoom-zoom looming into view as the ferry approaches its harbour Hydra might seem like any other Greek island: fluttering white-and-azure flags Except the B&B owners who gather beside its dock ready to pick up visitors and whisk them to their premises thanks to a 1950s law that sought to keep it as it’s always been — a labyrinth of alleys to be explored on foot you’ll find it’s a destination where the journey really does make the experience (How to explore the car-free island of Hydra, Greece.) The emerald sea reflects the pine trees covering Skopelos a serene island of pebble-strewn coves that’s great for walks and views piled high in the shadow of a Venetian castle wildflower-dotted trails lead to six Byzantine monasteries on Mount Palouki or to the wedding chapel of Agios Ioannis — of Mamma Mia film fame — perched high on a rock overlooking the sea near the island’s second town Skyros: Meet Skyrian horsesIsolated from its sisters that curls around a castle-crowned crag overlooking a vast beach rocky south is where a few of the last little Skyrian horses roam Introduced in the fifth century BCE by Athenian colonists and isolated ever since they’re the descendants of the horses depicted in the Parthenon Marbles they’re one of the rarest breeds in the world (What to do in Skyros, Greece's craft heartland.) which offer a stretch of sand for every taste Koukounaries and Vromolimnos are best for watersports while Aselinos is ideal for those after a quieter time is perfect for a lazy afternoon punctuated by lunch in the taverna Here are the best Greek islands to visit.","disableForMobile":false,"enableBackgroundColor":true,"focalPointX":"center","focalPointY":"center","hasByline":true,"image":{"caption":{"credit":"Photograph by Chris Mouyiaris AWL Images","source":"","text":"There’s a Greek island to suit every traveller — if you know where to look Here we reveal the best islands in Greece.","lines":3,"showMoreText":"Read More"},"image":{"alt":"The Acropolis of Lindos built in 1900 after the previous structure burned down The ferry slip can be seen cutting into the island from the right On the near side of the ferry slip is the hospital and in the foreground are the administration blocks.","crdt":"Photograph courtesy of Bettman/Getty Images","dsc":"This 1930s photograph of Ellis Island shows the copper-domed towers of the main building and in the foreground are the administration blocks.","rchDsc":{"markup":"This 1930s photograph of Ellis Island shows the copper-domed towers of the main building and in the foreground are the administration blocks."},"rchTtl":{"markup":""}},"sections":[{"name":"History & Culture","id":"b0c8dd52-23a8-34c0-a940-f46792bc9e70","type":"sources","uri":"https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history"}],"headline":"A look inside Ellis Island during its heyday","link":"https://www.nationalgeographic.com/history/article/ellis-island-immigration-photos"},{"description":"Tons of grains and crops are shipped down the Mississippi River every year 2023: Drone images of the Dredge Potter on the Mississippi River The state climatologist said that Missouri is currently in a one-in-20-year drought and the Mississippi River is expected to have near-record-low levels in the next few weeks The dredger works 24/7 to keep navigation up and down the river open for barges carrying supplies and goods The dredger removes sediment from the bottom of the river with a vacuum system that sends it through 800 feet of pipe and places it outside the navigation channel The Dredge Potter is a dustpan dredge and was built in 1932.","rchDsc":{"markup":"STE GENEVIEVE The Dredge Potter is a dustpan dredge and was built in 1932 The best climbing trips are about more than filling a tick list One climber finds epic beauty and stark reality in Kalymnos This article originally appeared in the May 2016 issue of our print edition three hundred twenty-four miles from the doldrums of my cubicle was paradise and a sun-kissed coastline—the holy trinity of travel for climbers—awaited me on the Greek island of Kalymnos I must be the luckiest person on the planet I saw the photo of the drowned Syrian toddler whose body washed up on a Turkish shore a country whose own economic status was one big question mark I was escaping my cushy life to go climb rocks and eat too much hummus while another type of Kalymnian visitor was escaping tyranny and the real possibility of death Stepping onto the tarmac at the Kalymnos airport and breathing in my first gulp of non-recirculated air since leaving Denver 30 hours before I felt the Mediterranean give me a warm and slightly sweaty hug I wanted to sit in one place and let the buzz from the constant motion of travel subside A man named George greeted us at baggage claim with his left hand outstretched This must be the standard handshake in Greece He showed us to a pocket-size rental car that very well could have been powered by a hamster running on a wheel Watch the video—Oasis: Sport Climbing in Kalymnos We followed as George zipped around the one main road on the island driving his scooter—typically a two-handed job with the brake on one side and the accelerator on the other—with one hand Later we found out that a childhood accident had rendered his right arm useless making him “not the best climber in the world,” he would say with a laugh A few hours later we would meet George III the reserved proprietor of the Aegean Tavern Georges II and III had invited us here to attend the Kalymnos Climbing Festival and I will show you everything Kalymnos has to offer besides the rock,” George II said when we met him at the tourism office “because there’s so much more than just climbing.” A gentle wind rose off the water below while I searched for holds hidden behind bulging tufas.Laughter echoed off the cave’s walls an image of which you’ve undoubtedly seen if you’ve seen anything about climbing in Kalymnos It’s a dramatic cavern where arching rock overhead meets sloping ground underneath and the empty space between forms a perfectly shaped human eye Look through that eye and a mesa-topped island called Telendos makes its stand in the middle of the Aegean Sea The image is classic to the point of cliche but there’s a reason it’s become so intertwined with the identity of the whole island It’s the quintessential setting: Gangly tufas drip down toward the ground and pinch-perfect pipes line steeper than steep walls creating enduro routes that climb high above a cerulean sea Kalymnos is the ultimate vacation spot for climbers and liters of cold Mythos beer sweating from the temperature difference of the sweet golden liquid inside and the muggy warmth outside Even the grades are considered “vacation grades,” meaning they’re a bit soft so you feel just as satisfied by your climbing day as you do from your plate of moussaka Despite the endless sunshine and carefree lifestyle there’s an undercurrent of turmoil in the country and this 42-square-mile island is no exception Following the 2008 implosion of Wall Street economic chaos took hold of Greece in 2009 when the Greek government stated it had been misreporting its budget deficit figures for years With the financial markets already struggling to recover global lenders were hesitant to give the country money Greece received billions of euros in three bailouts over the next five years but it’s been a Band-Aid on a bullet wound More than a quarter of Greece’s workforce is unemployed and many people are leaving for places like Australia and Florida where the climate is tropical and the economic opportunities are abundant Tourism during the summer sailing season is the island’s main industry Kalymnos is overshadowed by more luxurious Concrete skeletons line the Kalymnos coast construction projects that were started before the recession and will be completed “when the owner gets the money.” Even though we visited in October with only two or three groups of patrons filling the two dozen tables of each eatery Of course it benefitted us: The restaurant owners were ecstatic to have the business and paid us close attention serves as the first stop for refugees fleeing the Middle East via Turkey According to The UN Refugee Agency (UNHCR) more than 856,000 refugees made it to mainland Europe via the Mediterranean in 2015 and almost 150,000 have traveled these routes in the first three months of 2016 alone Men and women with worried looks huddled on the sidewalk in the main town of Pothia One bumbling tot too young to know what was going on attempted to play with her older sister who at 7 or 8 more closely resembled the somber adults at least 20 years her senior I felt a split-second urge to run over and help But how do you do that when you don’t share a language or anything besides the ground you’re standing on The next day the group was gone—taken where and by whom it wasn’t clear but within 24 hours a new group was gathered in the same spot Kalymnos tourism released this statement on Facebook: We are receiving around 40 a day in Pothia They are technically under arrest and may not leave They hang around near the port police and are processed then shipped to Athens 2x a week Syria is not a 3rd world country and many of them are well educated and prosperous – many choose to stay in the local hotels and almost all have smart fones it seems No crisis here on Kalymnos [smile emoticon] Thankfully WE do not need to flee our homes to avoid being killed We many have a financial crisis in Greece but we live in peace and safety The refugees weren’t welcomed with open arms I learned after the fact that groups of volunteers called “solidarity networks,” were helping organize food stepping up at a time when their own government refused to acknowledge the issue—or perhaps was too inundated with its own problems to lend a hand a boat carrying refugees sank off the coast of Kalymnos we woke up every day with the same kind of choice: Do we go to the easily approached Ghost Kitchen for a wide variety of grades and climbing styles or do we head to Panorama Wall for neverending tufa pipes and quick access to a post-climbing beer But a much graver choice had led the island’s other visitors here Do we stay in our home country and face death or do we pay dishonest smugglers to take us to an unknown future It felt selfish to grapple with spindly rock formations when there were people nearby who had given up everything they knew just to survive I wondered what would happen to those solemn faces we saw on the sidewalk The 25-minute approach to the Secret Garden and its all-day shade and nice range of routes on countless tufa blobs was just enough time for me to construct an elaborate fantasy I would forego climbing on the rest of the trip and spend my time helping refugees I pondered those questions until we rounded the last bend and came into view of the vast crag About 60 more motivated climbers were already there with a serious gear explosion of neon pink and yellow running the entire length of the 100-yard cliff I supposed the Secret Garden wasn’t so secret anymore I would have done an about-face and headed back to the car chalking it up as the perfect excuse to take a rest day Although there were plenty of people milling around and laughing at the bell-wearing goats trying to take food out of unattended packs there were only about a dozen people on the wall and four times that many routes available we realized this was the case with most crags showing up just before lunch and staying till dark when everyone else had long disappeared to one of the many tavernas by the beach The globules of limestone protruding from the slightly overhanging wall dotted the first 25 to 30 feet of the face creating jugs I could wrap my whole arm around I pulled on to Ballos (5.11d/7a) and found the movement exhilarating; it was the right combination of gymnastic and technical knowing I could always find a jug if I turned my wrist just the right way Eventually I moved past the blobs and stemmed between two tufa fins so distinct I felt a lump of emotion rise in my throat just hard enough for me to have to rev the engine but not so hard that I was intimidated A few moves of pump-induced awkwardness and I was at the anchors all too soon I clipped the chains and began to lower off Climbers have been traveling to Kalymnos since 1996 when Italian Andrea Di Bari discovered the area’s potential on vacation with his wife He returned the next year and bolted 47 routes Now the island boasts more than 2,600 lines particularly for those who have access to a boat which were sponsored by The North Face for a few years and the Petzl Roctrip have contributed a lot of harder development to the island the tourism group provided hardware to equippers The 2006 Roctrip established the stunning Sikati Cave on the northeast coast a gaping hole in the hillside that drops down a few hundred feet with dozens of angles and formations offering some of the island’s hardest lines and the few of them who do put up routes are quite proud of it On our way to Palionisos for a seaside lunch after a morning of climbing a man with wild hair flagged us down on the dirt road and motioned for us to pull over next to his house “Oh he’s gonna try to sell us something,” I cynically said as my travel partner rolled the window down Surrounded by a haphazard but cozy garden with green vines overtaking every vertical surface we sat and listened to Nikolas tell stories of the travelers he had met over the past few decades the British couple who visited him every year His wife shuffled around in the kitchen of their restaurant-slash-home only acknowledging her babbling husband when he asked us Cats weaved through our legs as he showed us old newspaper clippings; he had helped develop some of the climbing near his home listening to Nikolas prattle on—we got up to leave A herd of 30 goats had surrounded our tiny Nissan Micra so we got in and waited for them to disperse This is yours!” Nikolas said as he ran out waving the paper money I told him that I wanted to thank him for his hospitality Kalymnian generosity became a theme of the trip Free croissants were slipped into our bag of food when we visited Ethereal Cafe in Masouri for our daily chicken pies capped off a particularly amazing meal of grilled prawns when he placed a few unsolicited beers on our table and eggs each morning while gazing up at the Grande Grotta and George III would tell the staff in a booming voice “Take care of them like you take care of me!” Freshly squeezed orange juice would appear on our table within a few minutes I couldn’t help but think that perhaps this nonchalant approach to profit is part of what led the Greek economy to its current predicament At first I figured this was done just to keep us money-wielding tourists happy and coming back But it became clear that the capitalist mentality is not prominent in Kalymnian culture Kalymnians don’t seem to be concerned with the bottom line or how much they’ve got in their bank accounts the cashier (who was usually the shop owner) would gladly accept 40 euros and not think another thing about it like they cared about us as people and not mere customers Many of the businesses are passed down from generation to generation and Kalymnians enjoy living life day to day making enough to eat and survive and not concerning themselves with much else and a small deep water soloing cave that’s perfect for climbers new to DWS and because it sits on the edge of an inlet playing around on the routes that range from 5.10b to 5.12+ but it wouldn’t have happened without the helpful spirit of some locals Following the Greeks’ lead by lingering too long over morning coffee we arrived well past the 10:30 departure time of the water taxi that was supposed to take us to the cave I approached a woman who stood in the doorway of the restaurant closest to where the taxi departs and asked if there was another boat When my smile dropped and my shoulders sagged in disappointment “but I will call them,” the same way one might cheer up a disheartened toddler even though we clearly weren’t there to patronize her restaurant then a minute later I heard her mention it in the middle of rapid-fire Greek but they will not be coming back any time soon,” she said We thanked her and headed toward the faint path that we assumed went to the climbing and a few people on board were waving and whistling What would have been a 45-minute slog in unforgiving sun turned into a pleasant five-minute boat ride After experiencing the mouthwatering bifteki (grilled burger) and loukoumades (honey-drizzled doughnuts) my once favorite home-cooked meals tasted like prison slop Our favorite spot was the Aegean Tavern where each night a member of the Pizania family showed us to a table overlooking the water and seafood fritters while a half-dozen cats kept us entertained A waiter walked around with a desk-size platter of fresh fish to show us what had been caught that day and we would sit for a few hours talking about that day’s climbing and anything else that struck our fancy We filled one rest day by visiting the various museums that extoll the archaeological and cultural stories of Kalymnos and its people We learned of the island’s sponge-diving past its main industry until the late 1980s when something in the water turned the sponges black and how the men would go off for nine months at a time to harvest sponges It is Kalymnian tradition to have big families of 12 and 14 kids—everyone sleeping in one bed—and since the men were gone the women were left with the brunt of the responsibilities When a pregnant woman went into the hills to gather daily herbs the troubles of a country butted right up against the sunny to experience a place fully and completely in a way that pictures and videos don’t do it justice even a reality that’s just as bleak as it is wonderful fly to Athens then to Kos where you can take a ferry to Kalymnos You can fly directly to Kalymnos from Athens but there are only a few flights a day and they’re pricey with plenty of restaurants and shops within walking distance to many of the hotels You can find an inexpensive Air bnb in the area but sometimes the amenities aren’t as promised or the location is far away Elena Village (60 euros per night) offered full suites with kitchenettes and it’s within walking distance to Odyssey Wall and the multiple crags near Grande Grotta steep roads can be difficult to navigate with a tippy scooter and a heavy backpack Renting a car is affordable and makes everything easier and the Folklore Museum; you can see all in one day and villages; charter a sailboat; or head to the capital of Pothia Telendos is a quick boat ride away and has plenty of climbing to keep you busy for a few days but there are no vehicles allowed on the island The Greek island of Kalymnos is one of the world’s most popular international sport climbing destinations Arguably the most impressive crag on the island is Sikati Cave a giant hole in the ground with amazing tufa climbs on a remote as many of the climbs were bolted nearly 20 years ago during Petzl RocTrips Squamish first ascensionist and co-founder of Arc’teryx recently helped lead a re-bolting effort at this classic crag After noticing many manky anchors at the Sikati Cave he made a large donation to the re-bolting fund he used the gear he funded to replace bolts and anchors on many routes in the cave Him and his climbing partners also replaced the formerly somewhat sketchy via ferrata to access the crag with all new gear you’ve almost certainly been on a Lane route He made the first ascents of many of the very best trad and sport climbs in Squamish in the late 1970s to the late 1980s Some of his masterpieces include Neat and Cool 5.10a Max Berger was another individual key in Sikati Cave’s redevelopment He fully re-bolted many of the lower-grade classics with glue-ins and also bolted many brand new lines There’s still lots of potential for more development in the cave You can learn more about Lane’s efforts in the video by Klara Stein below Updated route topos are also included in the short film Get the digital edition of Gripped for your chosen platform: Kalymnos, second hop on our tour of lesser-known islands, has many rock-climbing highlights – and some sweet spots for scuba diving• Read part 1 of Kevin’s odyssey: Ikaria I’m sitting on the shady patio of the Paradisio cafe in Vlychadia My wet swimming kit is drying on the fence “I should explain the breakfast,” says Stethis who has been my guide on an epic morning of hiking “Kalymnos people like to mix unexpected tastes That tea is alisfakia – sage – with thyme honey And that mizithra cheese goes with the watermelon.” but you’ve got this vanilla-scented sugar stick.” the second stop on my quest to explore the Aegean’s lesser-known islands (which had begun in Ikaria This is an island that seems to love both the unexpected and the extreme Kalymnos was once the sponge-diving capital of the Mediterranean a marine virus had destroyed that business (The interesting nautical museum in the capital is filled with superb period photographs and artefacts.) Meanwhile the nearby island of Kos had become a tourist honeypot whose boat owners reportedly told visitors not to bother with Kalymnos because “it’s just rocks” Kevin Rushby’s daughter Maddy climbing up to a cave at from the kayaks near VathysThat didn’t deter Andrea Di Bari He came over in the mid-1990s on a day trip rock climbing had transformed the island’s reputation I’ve come to test out this island of adventure I’m joined by my partner Sophie and daughter Maddy (16) who have come over on the ferry from Kos for a few days in a cool and lovely apartment overlooking Telendos a car-free island that I’m itching to explore a dive master who sails us east around the island Dimitris comes from a long line of sponge divers his grandfather died while using a newfangled brass helmet and compressor No one had told the divers about the dangers and complexities of using air underwater Today we are searching for dolphins and Dimitris assures us that his family connections will guarantee an encounter Stopping above his father-in-law’s fish farm he dives to 20 metres and releases a shoal of sea bass I’m snorkelling above and see them come up have unfortunately pushed the dolphins out of their usual haunts An octopus gets up closeWe climb back into the boat and head into a narrow inlet where cliffs up to 15 metres high have become a popular spot for deep-water soloing then grabbing the rock and attempting to climb to the cliff-top We sail on round the east coast to the lovely village of Vathys where we say goodbye to Dimitris and jump into kayaks with a new guide cliff face and points out a cave about 50 metres up push through a curtain of wild figs and descend into cool gloom All sorts of ancient treasures have been found in this cave (they’re now in the remarkable Archaeological Museum of Kalymnos Potsherds (broken ceramics) lie around the feet of great limestone pillars We retrace our steps and paddle out to a lovely deserted beach to picnic in the shade of a tree where there are lots of excellent restaurants plenty of fish and an irate octopus that squirts angry ink changes colour and escapes up a tiny rocky hole the bit I’ve been most looking forward to: the rock climbing There are also so many routes that climbers can do 10 a day for a year and never repeat one We head north to cliffs above the village of Arginonta Kalymnos’s capital Pothia“That’s Vito I manage to climb a grade harder than I’ve ever done before and then we head for the beach picking things off the seabed and bringing them back to be thrown but the sponge-diving heritage is still there Looking for a holiday with a difference? Browse Guardian Holidays to see a range of fantastic trips SUBSCRIBE › flowers – by night they’d smell of marzipan Current IssueSubscribeAlpinist App  PodcastAboutSubmission GuidelinesContact UsPrivacy PolicyUser Agreement Find Alpinist in your local shop Tel: 802-644-6606contact@alpinist.com HEIGHT OF LAND PUBLICATIONSAlpinist • Backcountry • Cross Country Skier • Mountain Flyer He’s just one of the many locals who have ties to this traditional work which was often passed down in families through generations When a catastrophic disease began decimating the sea sponges in 1986 the islanders’ main source of income also plummeted one that looks to the island’s landscape—its steep cliffs (Read about the 1936 Popular Olympics, a boycott of fascism and Hitler.) Sea sponge harvesting—a pursuit mentioned in Homer’s eighth-century B.C epics—has been practiced in Kalymnos since the 1800s descending to depths of more than 250 feet and using resourceful yet risky techniques from free diving naked and weighted with a marble stone to breathing through a long hose that snaked to the surface I longed for daybreak to come to plunge into the sea,” says the 80-year-old Kampourakis even a thousand times per day … but it was well-paid bought houses for their families,” says Kampourakis whose likeness is depicted on a local statue honoring the sponge divers A fisherman dives for sea sponges off Kalymnos They used to be a major source of income for the islanders but local sponges are now scarce.Photographs by Francesco Zizola still flourishes in Kalymnos because of the locals’ skill in processing them for sale.Photographs by Francesco Zizola NOOR/LUZ/ReduxWhile islanders were sponge hunting merchants were selling the “Kalymnian gold” at far-flung markets sailing all over Greece and the eastern Mediterranean,” says Nikolas Papachatzis (Discover the healing plant that grows on only one Greek island.) The decades-long intensive harvesting, the disease that hit the sponges in the 1980s, and the increased frequency of extreme climatic events since the 1990s all combined to nearly wipe out the sponge harvesting industry but surprisingly the sponge trade still flourishes Kalymnos accounts for 80 percent of sponge exports worldwide and it imports sponges from tropical waters to satisfy the demand has an unsurpassed quality and a 10-year life span,” he says a marine biologist at the Hellenic Centre for Marine Research it is imperative to establish sound management schemes and endorse sustainable practices,” he says “Cutting part of the sponge instead of wholly removing it from the substrate is proven to minimize harvesting impact since it allows the remaining part to regenerate.” Dailianis also advocates for the designation of protected zones “can have significant long-term benefits by promoting restocking of depleted areas.” the island now draws travelers to its picturesque harbors and mountainous landscapes.Photograph by Norbert Eisele-Hein VISUM/ReduxThe rise of sport climbingWhile sponge harvesting was declining an altogether different industry was emerging high yellowish-orange cliffs rise from the sea—dramatic features that caught the eye of Italian climber Andrea Di Bari when he vacationed on Kalymnos in 1996 he returned the following year with climbing partners in tow to open up 43 routes Published images by photographer Andrea Gallo grabbed more climbers’ attention. Then Aris Theodoropoulos, a mountain guide, climbing instructor, and author of the Kalymnos Climbing Guidebook collaborated with the municipality to help make Kalymnos a bona fide climbing destination “In 1999 we noticed some strange guys, loaded with gear, then saw their figures hanging on the rocks,” says George Hatzismalis, head of the Municipality Tourist Office we started looking for what interventions should be made in order for this to evolve: opening new routes Neighboring Telendos island offers an additional seven sectors and 800 routes The combination of “the huge vertical walls the great variety and all close to each other … and the spectacular sea view while climbing,” he says (Here are 9 awe-inspiring mountains to summit in a lifetime.) But climbers here don’t have to be experts The easily accessible routes accommodate different levels and styles from adrenaline seekers to more-cautious amateurs and families “Kalymnos is great vacation climbing, good for beginners,” the elite American climber Alex Honnold previously told National Geographic “They have these huge caves with huge stalactites and it’s just like super fun featured limestone but then you can swim if you want in the sea after and it’s really beautiful.” Spring and fall are the best seasons for climbing but the island’s climate is mild year-round “The rise of climbing led to the extension of the tourist season from three or four to at least eight months,” says Nikolaos Tsagkaris president of Kalymnos’ Hoteliers Association “with all the subsequent benefits to the local community.” Typically some 12,000 climbers arrive each year to challenge their skills and stamina. Some have bought houses on the island and others waited out coronavirus lockdowns here “The bond between climbers and locals is strong,” says Hatzismalis visitors are not strangers.” Kalymnos has also become popular as a vacation spot for non-climbers Today Kalymnos has about 3,900 climbing routes for various skill levels many with sea views.Photograph by Luliia Leonova Alamy Stock PhotoA sustainable tourism model?While the sea continues to play a vital role in island life especially now that the pandemic has brought about a new emphasis on travel destinations with a host of outdoor activities have now become a blessing,” says the mayor “Our goal is to make good use of them in all possible ways … such as developing hiking and mountain biking.” Kalymnos has claimed a place on the global climbing map but for it to be sustainable in the long term the island’s natural heritage needs to be safeguarded Officials established the New Route Protocol in 2018 in an effort to prevent uncontrolled expansion and minimize the negative impact on the environment (Conservationists are questioning the environmental effects of climbing chalk.)  “No interventions were made to the natural surroundings they appreciate the untouched scenery,” says Hatzismalis “As long as places of archaeological interest and age-old formations many locals see a tip-top future for climbing in Kalymnos—and perhaps beyond “With care and maintenance of present and future routes,” says Dourdourekas “she can be a model for other destinations.” Maria Atmatzidou is an Athens-based writer who covers travel and archaeology. She was previously editor-in-chief of the Greek editions of National Geographic and National Geographic Kids magazines. Follow her on Instagram. Maria Atmatzidou is an Athens-based writer who covers travel and archaeology. She was previously editor-in-chief of the Greek editions of National Geographic and National Geographic Kids magazines. Follow her on Instagram DAY 23: In the Purcell Mountains of southeast British Columbia Honnold scales what is known as the Bugaboo range’s Chocolate Fudge Brownie route going for the onsight of the Kalymnos poster route Aegialis (7c The street is dark and quiet except for the laughter of a group of climbers stumbling back from a bar and the far-off whine of a scooter I hear the surf on the gravel beach of the Greek island of Kalymnos rocky outcropping in the Dodecanese near the coast of Turkey and my thoughts are of steep moves on climbs whose names end in “-os.” — the routes are tipped-back concoctions of pockets and tufas and stalactites and my forearms remember them as a butt remembers a spanking Listening to the night through the open window and replaying the day Into my mind drifts the slogan on the hotel lobby poster: “A climbing paradise in the Aegean …” From the balcony I can see the silhouette of the even smaller island of Telendos when an earthquake wracked this part of the island This earthquake might have exposed the limestone cliff line that now looms over the narrow strip of beach towns where the climbers stay With a dozen sectors spanning several kilometers this unbroken cliff band is one of the largest single sport-climbing crags in Europe but surprisingly few people have yet heard of it it has been known to climbers only since 1996 life has been idyllic: coffee at one of the cafés that line the town’s one and only through street head to the crag for a half day of fantastic until we can’t close our hands or the sun hits the rock maybe do a few more routes in the late afternoon then walk the main street looking for someone we know at the open-air bars stroll to a restaurant for a late dinner beginning with fresh calamari or feta followed by mousaka or fish and try to make it to bed in time to get up and do it all over again In addition to the main escarpment behind town there are a dozen other crags scattered along the road that follows the island’s northwest coast and more remote sectors on the flanks of inland mountains or along roadless stretches of coastline a French group has chartered a boat from the port town of Pothia and sailed up the coast to put up the first climbs in a huge Similar grottos exist farther along the coasts — not to mention what you might find if you actually set sail but in the bar in Masouri he tells of unclimbed limestone on a remote island chain we have barely escaped the sectors that are walking distance from our room Every time we take a different approach trail we encounter another day’s worth of routes The greatest local hazard is a Greek named Manellis the friendly bartender next door to our hotel I am thankful that tonight we slipped by before he could lure us in with a disco mix and some new concoction from behind the counter Markus Schauer of Austria has his hands full on Priapos abandoning her sprawled pose on small handholds for a swan-like dive into a no-hands rest twenty-five feet lower on the end of the rope she found herself hopelessly pumped and faced with a classic choice: clip or go The other climbers who have paused in their activities to observe her effort smile with approval — determination has trumped fatigue and fear lightly kicking the wall and gazing up with a mix of amazement at the spectacular nature of her rejection and simple frustration at sixty feet of hard climbing repeated again for no credit I sit back on the rope with a smile and gaze out at the sea “How many different ways can you fall off one climb?” she asks later tender fingers wrapped around a cold Mythos beer at the cafe guests at an “international climbing festival.” As a tourist destination Kalymnos struggles in the shadow of much more luxurious nearby resorts and has embraced traveling climbers more warmly than almost anywhere I know Its official aims are to promote cooperation and friendship between climbers and “build the ties that form from getting to know the people and the natural beauties of a place.” Sounded good to us the only way — we were immediately swept into the festivities Our first encounter with the Greeks proved typical: George Hatzismalis Tracy.” Exuding a calm energy that completely belied the chaotic schedule he kept maintaining a constant narrative on the event and the culture of the island with brief pauses to speak in rapid-fire Greek into his constantly ringing cell phone George dashed into a hardware store where he secured a few drill bits then headed inland to an outdoor café in a small plaza where we rendezvoused with French climbing ace Daniel Dulac then disappeared in a cloud of dust toward some new crag on his scooter the festival’s other invited guests were from Europe and included many of the island’s earliest climbing explorers There were journalists — David Munilla from the Spanish magazine Desnivel Since so few Europeans speak the host language of Greek the most widely used speech in the tourist zones of Kalymnos is English rendering the international café tables unusually accessible to visiting Americans Central to the event was Aris Theodoropolus Aris has been climbing for twenty-five years He cut his teeth establishing adventure routes in the more traditional Greek areas such as Varasova on the south coast of the Greek mainland Aris is a well-traveled skier and mountaineer as well as an excellent rock climber with a resume from the Alps that includes ascents such as the American Direct on the Dru and he now spends half the year on Kalymnos facilitating climbing-related activities He is responsible for many of the area’s fine sport routes François Legrand’s onsight attempt on the unclimbed Fun de Chichunne and our sport-climbing conquests are American trad-climber style: dramatic deep-digging onsights of the island’s easy classics The Europeans around us are performing at a considerably higher standard voiding our bragging rights — which we work to our benefit Instead of attempting to milk our unimpressive achievements for ego gratification we focus on making new friends and looking for whimsical significance in other realms such as the mythological names of the climbs we try the twigs used to make the little wreath that Olympians wear used all manner of evasion before finally turning herself into a laurel tree to flee the attentions of Apollo — just as this beautiful climb seems to throw trick after trick to thwart my determined partner a route I am eyeing in the incredible Grande Grotta sector is named after a comically uncouth god of fertility is so massively virile that in practice he is sterile It is so steep that it allows you to beat gravity gaining half the height you would on vertical moves so it takes surprisingly little power to pull from feature to feature Plentiful stalactites provide all manner of exotic and erotic rests I was used to climbing at “slabbier” areas such as my local crag and it took me a while to learn to think in three dimensions In the many hours when we were not actually gripping steep rock we found the Grande Grotta to be an excellent place for people-watching the spectacular amphitheatre became a virtual planetarium of elite Euro-stars contrapuntally onsighting the wildly overhanging 7c to 8a+ lines I watched François Legrand working his way through the routes Italy — the see-and-be-seen Wimbledon of sport climbing held outdoors beneath the castle-encrusted cliffs lining the Sarca River at the foot of the Dolomites The most memorable thing about that competition had been watching Legrand “He never bends his arms,” someone put it to describe his style — which was part of it but there was a further effortlessness that defied description the ultimate French plastic competition climber He looked good on the trade routes well within his grade but surely he’d be too irritated by awkward holds or smudges of dirt here and there to really perform on something as raw as the seldom-tried project in Kalymnos under which he was soon stacking his rope it had been tried by many Greeks and foreigners but never thoroughly cleaned and never redpointed The journalist in me also had identified the climb as a potential source of mini-drama was on Kalymnos and had plans for the route old-school Marseilles climber had thrown in the towel for routes in the 8a-and-above range but was traveling with the extremely motivated Daniel Dulac Abert’s passion now lay in photographing the various unclimbed projects he had left scattered across Europe The younger climber bagged gem after pre-equipped gem while Abert derived vicarious pleasure from his protégé’s success — and shot many saleable photos in the bargain Abert had intended Fun de Chichunne for Dulac The festival organizers had promised the invited rock stars a selection of unclimbed routes in the 8a to 9a range Though a large team of equippers created some wild lines many of their offerings proved either too easy or impossible Unclimbed rock of the correct difficulty was at a premium and during one slide show I had heard Legrand grumbling about the shortage of projects had become enamored with the multi-pitch climbing on a new cliff he had found — the one he raced off to with George’s new drill bits the day we arrived on the island — and at some point Legrand got the nod to try the Grande Grotta project which has now been closed to further bolting to protect the delicate stalactite architecture I took up a position near the back of the cave arching out through the massive amphitheatre to end in a small hanging cave at the Grotta’s lip Legrand racked twenty-some draws and tied into an extra-long rope the Italian who discovered Kalymnos for climbing the holds thinned to cauliflower-sized concretions stuck to the ceiling and stalactites only a few inches in diameter Legrand moved through the delicate features with the care of an seeming to know just how much to press or pull on the frighteningly thin columns of flowstone His arms and legs moved instinctively into exotic stemming and wrapping combinations A few tiny flakes and pebbles came down from the route but to my surprise François seemed completely unfazed About eighty feet out the roof Legrand stalled at the crux section that had stopped all previous climbers retreating to an inverted rest in a pair of slim stalactites When Legrand moved out of the rest a third time there was urgency in his movements Pinching tiny cauliflowers and throwing a powerful drop knee he yarded through a long sequence of dead-horizontal climbing that hurt my abs just to watch finally working into a partial rest among some larger The final climbing beyond him looked much easier with stalactites several meters long providing a woods-like passage to the hanging garden at the lip adjusting his stance — and then a stalactite snapped The rope zipped through the draws and went taught among the daggers of limestone overlooking the shimmering waves of the Aegean Sea on his next attempt Legrand made the first ascent of I witnessed other memorable performances over the course of the festival: Dulac redpointing a stunning just-over-vertical pitch at his “Olympia” sector that he called 8b+ (5.14a) which would make it the hardest pitch yet done on the island — and part of a yet-unfinished three-pitch line; Mirjam Verbeek after about twenty pitches of 5.11+ and 5.12 climbing over the course of the day coming within three moves of onsighting the mega-classic guidebook-cover route Aegialis (7c 5.12d) in the last rays of a gorgeous Mediterranean sunset; an impromptu midnight street dance to celebrate the fortieth birthday of our new Austrian friend Marcus; Dave Graham crashing his scooter while trying to talk to his passenger and make a U-turn at the same time She summed up the Kalymnos experience quite nicely “You felt like when you were there that you had no troubles — that it was just kind of paradise If you were having an off climbing day or a tired day you could just go to the beach which was what you were thinking about the whole time you were climbing anyway.” Like the poster said “a climbing paradise in the Aegean …” Though you would not know it from the warm hospitality climbers find on the island tourism has not figured large in the Kalymnians’ past has always been overlooked by island hoppers in favor of other islands that are more lush The more rugged way of life on Kalymnos dates back over 3000 years ancient Kalymnians made a living as seamen and warriors Kalymnos sent 30 ships to the Trojan War in 1200 BC the fate of Kalymnos has been tied to nearby Kos visible to the south from the shores of Kalymnos Kalymnians took goods from the richer and more fertile island in exchange for helping to protect Kos from the ravages of pirates and would-be invaders In one ancient battle (the resulting legal case was studied by Julius Ceasar when he was a law student) Kalymnians destroyed a dangerous pirate fleet off Cape Krikelo on Kos but the governors of Kos shortchanged the Kalymnians beginning an enmity that has existed between the two islands ever since Kalymnos was aligned with Alexander the Great Though the region flourished in Byzantine times it was frequently attacked by Arabs and Turks prosperity had been replaced by hardship from constant piracy followed a century later the Knights of Saint John but in 1522 the Turks finally took the region and controlled it until the 20th century the Kalymnians began to specialize in another grueling and dangerous profession: sponge fishing Though the sponge industry has now all but died Kalymnos gained great and lasting fame as “the sponge fishing island.” The arduous hypoxic work of stripping the fibrous sponges from submerged rocks at depths up to thirty meters claimed the life of many a free diver the profession took on a more sinister industrial character as Kalymnians unwittingly did trial-and-error R&D on the new helmeted deep-sea diving suits resulting in the early case studies in the crippling and fatal effects of the bends Kalymnian fishermen worked as far afield as Africa and Key West; the town of Tarpon Springs is composed largely of Kalymnian descendants who once worked the sponge trade and the town was known in the 1930s as the sponge capital of the world and participated in the Greek Revolution in 1821 but the London Protocol of 1830 did not include it inside the boundaries of the Greek state Such hard luck — and the toughness that comes with it — have deeply influenced the local character Kalymnians have been in the forefront of every struggle winning decisive battles over the centuries yet in peacetime they have been the first to be traded away by diplomats but the initial promise of liberation soon gave way to an even harsher occupation as fascism took over in Italy Mussolini’s vision of a new Roman empire spread to the Dodecanese these cultural currents left almost no architectural imprint on the desolate there are almost no ancient ruins or early architecture on Kalymnos; for these you must visit Kos The Fascist and Nazi domination of the 1930s and 1940s fell hard on the island but one famous show of Kalymnian character came in April 1935 at a time when the Vatican was trying to pull the Dodecanese islands away from the Greek Orthodox Church and military and religious matters were thoroughly entangled Trying to protect their local priest while their men were elsewhere engaged 2000 women and children of Kalymnos entered into a three-day battle against Italian troops armed only with kitchen utensils and stones one nun snatched a rifle from a soldier’s hands and broke the bayonette blade over her knee six Italians were thrown into the sea by the mob of women no Kalymnians were killed and the Italians finally quelled the rebellion gained wide notice and helped turn the political tides saving the religious freedom of the Dodecanese until the region finally gained independence at the end of World War II With the overfishing produced by dive suits and industrial methods the sponge-fishing industry on Kalymnos dwindled and the Mediterranean sponge blight of the 1980s finished it off as a viable industry on the island Hard times once again fell on the Kalymnians as sun-loving climbers fanned out from larger Mediterranean islands like Mallorca First were the well-known Italian rock climber Andrea Di Bari and his wife who discovered the island in the summer of 1996 Andrea returned twice the next year with photographer Andrea Gallo and others was put up in 1998 by Greek climbers George Kopalides and John Torelli Italian climbers established the Jurassic Park sector the next year Germans established the megaclassic Marci Marc (and the open project Lucky Luca) in 2000 and the Swiss contributed most of the superb Spartacus sector in 2002 Di Bari and Gallo published the first article about Kalymnos climbing and a climbing festival took place the next year more at home among rock and sea than polite company and wealth They are fiercely traditional and ill at ease with normal tourism but quick to find commonality with adventurers and outcasts a tendency that makes the island deeply amenable to climbers The recent influx of climbing tourism is thus an odd but promising development for the island’s economy “These rocks have been a curse to the island for centuries,” Kalymnians will tell you incredulously though this is the most likely time for rain though this is the height of the regular tourist season and the weather tends to be not only hot but windy Getting there: It takes almost two days from the States to get established on Kalymnos The best place to base is the strip of beach towns on the northwest side of the island you can reach the climbing on foot or by scooter and then take a three-hour hop on Olympic or Agean airlines to the island of Kos There are two Athens-to-Kos flights per day; roundtrip is about 150 Euros 12 Euros by taxi) to the port town of Mastichari Boats leave three times per day; there should be a boat that corresponds with your air arrival from Athens which has ancient architecture absent in Kalymnos and the island even has a granite bouldering area drive to Antimachia and turn right to the village of Kardamena on the south coast of Kos From there follow the road to Noridas Beach turn left on a gravel road that leads to a chapel The Kos to Kalymnos ferry costs 3.50 Euros on the opposite side of Kalymnos from the climbing to take a ferry direct to Kalymnos from Piraeus The Kalymnos-to-Piraeus return is an overnight trip leaving in the evening and arriving at about 7:00 the next morning but the best value may be Lambrinos Studios Apartments located below the road are more expensive but are nearer to the beach and protected from street noise including that from the scooters that most climbers rent (about 7 Euros per day) for the short commute to the crag but you’ll need some transport for reaching the more out-of-the-way sectors such as Arhi or for sightseeing on the island This lightens your luggage without being much more expensive than staying at many European campgrounds If you’re traveling in a group of four you can manage on $10 or $15 per night for a room with a kitchenette Miscellaneous: Kalymnos is easily investigated on the web but here are a few details: There are internet cafés near the crags Traveler’s checks are optional; you can use your ATM card in Masouri to withdraw cash directly from your U.S Greek food is diverse and vegetarians will thrive on meals such as feta cheese served with olive oil followed by a veggie mousaka (eggplant casserole) aromatic with native oregano and thyme and famous throughout Greece Adventurous carnivores should go for the goat dishes There are enough climbs of 6b (5.10d) and below on the island to keep climbers of modest ability happy forever Easy and hard routes are scattered through most sectors so groups of different abilities can climb together If you function anywhere near the 7c (5.12d) level Many of the newer lines and extensions in the large caves offer world-class big-hold endurance climbing most notably the Grande Grotta route Trella As with many “resort” climbing areas the bolts in Kalymnos are closely spaced and the grades a bit soft so don’t be afraid to push yourself up the scale Multi-pitch climbing in Kalymnos is not yet very popular but there are numerous hidden adventure climbs that are worth the risk of getting hot Most are south facing and best done in the cooler months or early in the day There’s no need to bring any trad gear just a 60-meter rope and a thin tag line for rappelling Celebrity Chef George Diakomichalis blends a century-old pastry legacy with contemporary flair from Adelaide’s Kalymnos Pastries to TV fame and immersive culinary tours in Greece George Diakomichalis is a celebrity chef the troubadour of Greek pastries He left a banking career for the actual dough to train on Kalymnos at his family’s ‘zaharoplasteio’ “Our craft in Greek patisserie has been handed down for four generations,” he says On return, he starred in his own television show, ‘It’s All Greek to Me,’ which elevated Greek pastry and his store, Kalymnos Pastries the heart of Adelaide’s Greek community Diakomichalis has bagged a cache of awards for Kalymnos Pastries such as the South Australian Excellence Award in 2022 and leads annual food tours to his ancestral island of Kalymnos Mihali Vouros began the family’s pastry legacy At a time when Greece was impoverished and children laboured his mother sent him to Russia to learn a trade with a Greek family who owned a pastry shop Vouros sent his earnings back to his family he returned home and established Ζαχαροπλαστείο Βούρος Diakomichalis’s Greek patisserie is built on recipes that are over a century old Kalymnos Pastries has been recognised by the Restaurant and Catering Industry Association as the Best Patisserie in South Australia so many times that it has secured a coveted place in the Hall of Fame Kalymnos Pastries was named the Best Patisserie in Australia “We represent our culture proudly,” Diakomichalis says The use of “top-quality ingredients” he says “We make many things ourselves because much of it doesn’t exist here or they’re too expensive to import,” he says so finding skilled pastry chefs who share our passion is challenging.” He trains every team member “from scratch” “Good customer service and traditional products from Greek recipes that date over a hundred years are the key “Four generations of tradition available to everyone daily.” one studying speech therapy at university and the other in high school “I want them to follow their passions and bring something new to the business if they join.” The ebullient pâtissier has presented cooking demos in Adelaide “I’m an entertainer; I want to bring joy and inspire people to cook traditional recipes at home.” His culinary tours to Kalymnos since 2010 have been a hit “I bring people from all across the world to experience my island and to introduce them to my culinary traditions,” he says The tours are “immersive” and include cooking classes and historical insights wrapped in island hospitality “I try to inspire people with the Greek island life a master pâtissier whose roots are embedded in his Kalymnian traditional cuisine His media profile was born 15 years ago with a television cooking segment then came ‘It’s All Greek to Me’ which aired in 2022 on Channel 9 It will take viewers on a road trip through Greece’s regional cuisines and Diakomichalis remains dedicated to preserving a century-old family legacy set by Mihali Vouros in 1918 on Kalymnos Diakomichalis a flamboyant media personality “There is a reason for all the cooking classes festivals – it’s about preserving heritage and passing it on to future generations,” Diakomichalis says A goal for in 2025 for Diakomichalis is to produce a cooking demonstration at one of the largest Greek Australian festivals in the world “It’s the largest Greek community and I haven’t yet presented at their festival I’m ready to bring all the sweetness of Kalymnos to Melbourne.” Kalymnos is legendary and before I travelled there I wanted to learn about the past two decades of development when Italian climber Andrea di Bari visited the area for his summer holidays He explored the potential and returned the following year with some friends They established 43 sport routes at the crags called Arhi Bari returned later that year with Andrea Gallo After articles began popping up in the spring of 1999 countless climbers visited the area with power drills and bolts It wasn’t long after that when the local municipality worked with Aris Theodoropoulos to promote the local climbing They scrutinized the protection of the existing routes and added new ones They started a website that had translations in English It was in the fall of 2000 when an international climbing event was organized by Acharnes Greek Alpine Club to take place at Kalymnos French climber Catherine Destivelle and 180 climbers from 13 countries came together to help transform the walls into a climber’s paradise The local council then published a guidebook and gave it away to climber Kalymnos is one of the world’s best sport climbing areas it’s easy to see why so many travel to the Greek island The limestone has more features than Canadian limestone because there is no freeze/thaw cycle that breaks rock Some of the routes have big tufas and climb through caves Others climb vertical faces with thin holds and pockets There are plenty of moderates on lower angle walls and routes up to 5.14d on steeper one Most of the routes have steel biners fixed at the anchor you can lower off The bolting is never too spacey and the first three bolts are always close to prevent decking I noticed that most of the climbers were there as couples and there weren’t as many young people as Thailand It’s cheap and easy living in Kalymnos with great food and friendly locals The deep water soloing and big stone arches add to the variety of climbing I knew before I went that the grading is soft and sometimes called ‘vacation grading.’ Many of the local guides painted the grades at the base of routes but those grades are often different than the guidebook grades I travelled there with a few friends from Canmore in the winter for two weeks We travelled from Calgary to Heathrow to Athens to Kos and ended in Kalymnos we rented scooters and picked up food for our visit The first night was spent walking the streets of Massouri and we noticed most of the tourists were climbers I’m always torn as to whether I should shoot or climb but having spent the winter photographing ice climbing I did spend a few mornings hanging from ropes shooting We headed to the famous area Grande Grotta This cathedral-like cave is near-perfect for both climbing and photography It offers some easily accessible stances and incredible compositions This routine would take a long time to grow weary of which is the main town on the island and accessible by ferry from Kos It’s a port town and densely populated with colorful terraced houses and apartments finding small bakeries and drinking strong coffee was a fun way to take in a different side of the island We also spent time in the port town of Vathy It is the place where deep water soloists hang out Due to cold water temperatures and limited time we didn’t sample the steep sea-side cliffs There were lots of cats on the docks waiting for fish parts tossed to them by the fishermen we continued to climb at as many different crags as we could Amazing to think the first routes were only established 20 years ago fly to Athens then grab one of the many flights to Kos on Olympic or Aegean Once in Kos go to Mastahari and take a ferry to the Kalymnos port town of Pothia Take a bus from there to Massouri or wherever you are staying for a couple It rarely rains in Kalymnos during September and October and from mid-October even climbing in the sun can be a real pleasure The sea is still warm enough for swimming even in early November October is certainly the most suitable month and this is when the number of visiting climbers reaches its peak Winter: It’s common for climbers to be cragging in T-shirts on Christmas Day All winter can provide nice climbing temps and it doesn’t rain much Best crags are Arhi and the ones surrounding it Spring: Conditions are similar to autumn and it is a great time to visit the wild flowers are in full bloom and you can smell them on the way to the crags There is a chance of rain and the sea it too cold to swim in The rock might be seeping and tufas will be dripping Big holds are more likely to break when wet so avoid the big caves Summer: The northern breezes (the meltemi) keeps the island relatively cool in the summer While most European areas are plagued with heat you can climb comfortably most of the season The routes range from having 15 to 25 quickdraws so bring a big rack of them If a route is 10 to 12 metres then you’ll need around a dozen Many climbers recommend bringing 30 to 50 quickdraws in case you leave some on a project You will need five to 10 long slings for some of the stalactite and tufa routes to reduce rope drag Always check route lengths and always tie knots in the dead end of the rope Notifications can be managed in browser preferences. The victim had been on a tourist boat trip from Kos I would like to be emailed about offers, events and updates from The Independent. Read our Privacy notice A British tourist has drowned while swimming in the sea off a Greek island had come to the isolated beach on the Aegean island Kalymnos on a tourist boat from Kos during scorching 25C sunshine Local reports said the unidentified man drowned in front of his wife after struggling to get back on the boat Friends called emergency services and a team of coastguards police and divers in two boats pulled him from the water on April 16 The man was taken by the coastguard to the port of Vathi where he was pronounced dead at Kalymnos General Hospital, according to local news site Palmoskalymnou. The cause of the drowning remains unclear and investigations will be carried out by the Kalymnos Port Authority. The island is only around 70 miles from Marmaris in Turkey, where last month a British pensioner also drowned. The man, named in reports as 73-year-old Denis Crawley, is thought to have got into difficulty after jumping into the water during a sightseeing cruise. Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies Alex Geary writes about his time in Kalymnos he has been assisting with Syrian refugee support “Can I please pay my bill?” I asked the waitress politely you will sit down and I will bring dessert.” Ok well that wasn’t exactly the response I was anticipating but after three weeks already on the island we had learned that it was pretty normal to get free dessert and even free wine at the particular restaurant we were at which may have had something to do with why we chose to eat there We had chosen a family vacation to Kalymnos for many reasons but mostly because there is great climbing it’s on the ocean and the guidebook describes how suitable each area is for children so this last point was probably the most important We had invited all our climbing friends that also had young children hoping that this would maximize the amount of supervision available A good friend from Whistler had planned on being there at the beginning of our trip with his family but unfortunately he had to pull out due to knee surgery That left us climbing alone for the first week we’d started to settle into a routine and we’d doubled the amount of pitches we climbed every day We’d also been deciphering what “OK” for kids meant in the guidebook this meant if we tried to climb without someone else to supervise our toddler Dax he was certain to fall off a large boulder or cliff onto his head Symblegades turned out to be by far the most kid friendly crag we found with a huge flat area the size of several tennis courts different aspects to climb on and grades from 5b to 7a The second week of our trip my parents came to visit which was great not only because they live in Australia and I don’t see them very often but also because their main reason for coming was to babysit so that Amanda and I could go climbing Or maybe it was to spend time with me and their grandson week three our friends Larry and Inka showed up with their one year old son and feel like our belayer was actually going to catch us if we fell The first week there was at least one occasion when I was trying to redpoint a route and Amanda had to tie me off and chase after Dax who had run away to play with the goats The first area we visited with Larry and Inka is called The Beach not surprisingly because the crag is on a beach We realized when we arrived that it was the location where 19 Syrian refugees had died the previous day while trying to reach Greece from Turkey There were life jackets and rubber tubes strewn across the beach along with lots of debris including an abandoned homemade raft We felt saddened and tried to think if there was anything we could do to help Amanda started asking around to see if the refugees needed anything but were most in need of basic hygiene items and baby clothing Amanda made a post on Facebook asking for donations and within 24 hours she’d already raised $500 we took all our spare baby clothing from Dax and also from Leo (Larry and Inka’s son) spent 300 Euros at the grocery store on hygiene products and delivered it all to the Refugee Support Centre in Pothia This gave us a chance to see first hand how the refugees were doing and also allowed us to speak to the staff who were handing out supplies to the refugees Their response was “backpacks.” The people-smugglers often confiscated the refugees’ belongings in Turkey to try and maximize the number of people (and hence income) they could squeeze onto the overcrowded boats This left the refugees with nothing more than the clothes on their backs and if they had to swim for shore they often didn’t even have shoes Our story appearing on the Gripped website helped legitimize Amanda’s “Go Fund Me” account and pretty soon she raised over $5,500. For the past two weeks, we spent our rest days spending the money Amanda had raised on items the refugees needed most, including backpacks, rain ponchos, socks, shoes, underpants and ferry tickets. Amanda has kept the Go Fund Me account open so if anyone else donates money she can call one of the travel agencies we visited in Pothia and add the money to the refugee account we just have to hope the refugees can find a country that will accept them It was back in 1996 when Andrea di Bari "discovered" the nigh limitless garden of rocks on the island of Kalymnos while holidaying in Greece’s Dodecanese with his wife The Italian immediately returned the following May to bolt the first 43 sport climbs at the sectors Arhi and from that moment on there was no way of stopping the wave of development on the island and on nearby Telendos Since those early beginnings Kalymnos has evolved into one of best sport climbing areas in the world and it has become a reference point for the entire climbing community The island hosts circa 10,000 climbers each year; everyone comes here in search of that magical mix of fabulous limestone the exceptional Aegean sea and the legendary Greek hospitality and cuisine that all render the atmosphere on the small island absolutely unique Info: climbkalymnos.com Pezonda is an extensive new sector located midway along the Arginonta-Vathy road in one of the wildest and remotest parts of the island It takes its name from the beautiful fjord down below is the small island of Kalolimnos; further in the distance is the coast of Turkey Pezonda is an excellent addition to Kalymnos climbing: the limestone is fresh and abundant the approach is not too long or steep (relatively speaking) and cool conditions in the afternoon shade prevail The very few signs of life and the almost complete absence of “civilization” make this a great spot for going off the grid You can forget your mobile phones here; there is no service sector Pezonda comprises five smaller sub-sectors the sub-sectors are Eora Cave; Lemon Crumble Wall; Valhalla; Peanut Wall; and Great Escape Almost all routes at sector Pezonda were bolted by Hannes Webhofer and Niels Abegglen in 2019-2021 Almost all bolts and lower-offs were provided by us (Climb Kalymnos / Aris Theodoropoulos) with proceeds from the sales of our Kalymnos guidebook Approach (Walking time: 20 mins)Drive along the Arginonta-Vathy road until you come to the col (37.004810 Turn off the main road onto a narrow dirt road starts on the left and leading to a goat pen Park 100m further (50m before the goat pen) next to a big cairn and blue/red paint marks (37.003703 To Lemon Crumble Wall and Eóra Cave There are also big cairns along the footpat EÓRA CAVEA horseshoe-shaped small cave with good-quality At this writing there are 14 routes (6a—8a+) bolted mainly by Niels Abegglen in 2019-2020 but it lacks much potential (loose rock at parts and chossy lower sections Routes into the mystic and mindblower are accessed via fixed rope which also helps with safer belaying.Gear: 80m rope VALHALLAThe star of Pezonda: a relatively narrow recess in the rock between grey walls with an impressive compact orange wall full of stark features and outstanding routes.Shade: Around 13:00 PEANUT WALLA wall with a feature that looks like a giant peanut At this writing there are only four routes especially for hard climbs; there is also a very promising wall between sub-sectors Valhalla and Peanut Wall which is untouched and best for easy-to-moderate grades 5. GREAT ESCAPEStill in the early stages of development, with only four routes at this writing and no names assigned yet. Access via fixed rope (approx. 15m). Views are predictably stunning, and it’s a great place to, well, escape.For further information and to download the pdf with all the routes check out: climbkalymnos.com Photos by Elodie Saracco – I went to Kalymnos five years ago for the first time and keep going back This place amazes me by its fantastic panorama The potential is enormous and new lines are steadily bolted Rock climbing there is different: you experience 3D climbing on stalactites and tufas Kalymnos is definitely a climber’s paradise thanks to a climbing community that makes you feel that you’re part of something and the hospitality of the locals that helps you feel at home Only beauty will save us. Beauty will save Greece, the beauty of its sea, its islands, its people. Kalymnos Four seasons for climbing coupled with beauty.. Four seasons spent in the sea and on the rocks travelling and living according to other rhythms those dictated by beauty.An oceanic sea. Talking about climbing only is a hard task Because while for us climbing is the centerpiece Kalymnos would certainly not be so compelling if you can't enjoy all it has to offer There are plenty of crags dotted all over the world you have take everything into account: the flight (cheap and easy at last) the local population all excited by this unexpected international attention and relaxed and varied surroundings thanks to people of all age and whereabouts.When's the best time to go to Kalymnos. In late spring or early autumn And should you stay in Kantouni or Massouri How often have the walls of the bars at Sakis and Glaros - the traditional climbers' hangouts - heard these questions followed by antithetical reasons in favour of one or the other When should you go to Kalymnos?Along comes winter. Cold winds caress the island a few more millimetres of rain in November So you climb at crags you forget about during the warm seasons the distant Galatiani and Iliada and the gigantic Olympic Wall some restaurants enjoy a well-deserved rest the sea cools down and this is the exclusive opportunity to climb in an intimate and remote ambient It's the ideal time of year to battle up those small crimps.Spring nature awakens. The limestone slopes are covered in green leaves and grass and a bounty of colourful flowers but as you approach the rocks you finally enjoy the warmth of the sun such as the beautiful walk to the breathtaking Ghost Kitchen cliffs The glimpse onto fjord Arginonda is breathtaking with its numerous routes of all grades which weave their way up the cliff and small coves. Summer. The hot But this isn't felt on a small rocky island That's why loads of climbers - obliged by work commitments or school holidays - come here at this time of year A morning's climbing is followed by a dip in the ocean while waiting for the cool evening winds Pirate's Beach - the Kalymnos equivalent of Ton Sai show themselves from their best side during these hot summer nights floating motionless in the warm sea.Autumn. This is the when you fully understand how tourism on Kalymnos has changed ever since the fortuitous and fortunate arrival of Andrea di Bari in 1997 At the turn of the new millennium bars and restaurants located on the west ocast closed down for winter in September The few studios at Massouri and Kantouni closed as the sun sea and sand tourists inevitably migrated elsewhere The two villages prepared for a long hibernation Massouri is a colourful and lively town bustling with tourists from all over the world they crowd the streets and linger in shops The sea is still warm and proves irresistible after a day's climbing while the warmth of the last rays of sun falling behind the island of Telendos means that the summer beach beds and umbrellas are still left in place dry vegetation reminds me that summer is not over yet What Massouri offers has increased tenfold during the last decade The rocky cliffs from Symblegades Petres all the way to The North Cape are now the solid foundations for new and even more comfortable studios.Kalymnos in all seasons therefore! Kalymnos and the beauty of its dazzling light a light so bright that it shines within us they simply want to have fun and enjoy themselves 5 things not to miss out on1 – The relaxed atmosphere found both in the lifestyle and climbing2 – The quality and sheer quantity of rock3 – The Beautiful even easy and mid-grades4 – The Pirates beach and the scooter raids5 – The sunset over TelendosNicola Noè Sikati Cave, Irox, some routes at Odyssey, Grande Grotta and Panorama are top of the agenda according to Theodoropoulos who stated on Climbkalymnos "No doubt this rebolting program is a very good thing for Kalymnos but it will only help to rebolt about 10% of the total routes And the fact is that funds for rebolting are almost non-existent we must work for the longevity of Kalymnos; besides correcting the routes in need future climbing development must be done the right way to ensure that Kalymnos remains one of the safest family climbing destinations in the world." For further details about this, and other, initiatives visit climbkalymnos.com At UKC/UKH we are all experienced internet users and as such we understand why some people want to use Ad Block to remove annoying and distracting advertising that proliferates on some web sites We don't feel that UKC/UKH should be considered as such a site We have developed a site that has subtle and appropriate advertising; we don't use pop-ups we don't force you to read adverts before you can see content and we don't use third party ad servers dishing up totally inappropriate advertising We have worked incredibly hard over the years to make sure that we keep a good balance between advertising and editorial content Please could you consider disabling Adblock when visiting UKC/UKH Kalymnos has got to be the world's best known sport climbing destination and with good reason - friendly locals a picturesque Aegean island setting and of course the truly fantastic set of routes approaching 3000 climbs at the last count and many of them are of impeccable quality Climbers from all over the world now visit the place and its reputation has grown into a 'must visit' venue There are many fantastic harder climbs but there is also a remarkable assemblage of high quality climbs at more amenable grades of around say 6b and below Of course inevitably paradise has its darker side roll up here in the two prime seasons - May and October - and you will be sharing cliffs occasionally some crags don't have a spare route to go at as dozens (and dozens) of climbers jostle to get on a line some of the best climbs have become worn and polished as they see so much action in the high season with convoys of hopefuls waiting for their turn This is especially true of the cliffs that can be reached by walking from Massouri - the main centre of accommodation Before we first visited the place eight years ago my one big reservation was the number of people we might encounter - and it was a fear that proved to be well founded In the end we used the simple tactic of avoiding the cliffs with the most scooters parked at the bottom - try again tomorrow - and move onto somewhere different We have found a solution that is simple enough - being free agents (i.e effectively retired) we avoid the really busy times that way it is possible to enjoy the place without tripping over hoards of other people There are few direct flights (to Kos - the usual stepping stone for Kalymnos) out of the season but coming via a change in Athens is no big deal and offers the option of flying straight into Kalymnos with the small Bombardier aircraft operated by Aegean Airlines - a really great way to arrive But what if you are obliged to come in the high season but don't enjoy crowds Fortunately there are now enough cliffs that it is usually possible to escape the worst of the melée If you are really determined to get on the classics of (say) Grande Grotta you will have to bite the bullet and form an orderly queue Having done over 1500 ascents on Kalymnos and nearby Telendos we have a found a few out of the way places that are usually quieter than the main honeypots Not all of them are of the highest quality but of course that is at least part of the reason that they tend to be quieter So if you fancy somewhere a bit different here are a few ideas you might not have considered These cliffs will need wheels of one sort or another to access - a bicycle for the tough The locals are pretty good at picking up hitch hikers - it doesn't harm to offer them a few Euros (the bus fare you would have spent) for their trouble Other crags worth a look and likely to be even quieter than the ones already listed are: Dodoni Princess Canyon and Snow White and all are detailed in the Rockfax Kalymnos App as are all those already listed Read our original, comprehensive destination guide to the island here. This Rockfax guidebook covers all the climbing in the usual Rockfax style - huge photo-topos inspiring action photos and bang up-to-date as well It is an update of the Kalymnos app version which has been available for a year and is available in print and app format Find out more... Historic Environment Scotland (HES) has placed bolts on the well-known Black Wall Traverse in the South Quarry of Salisbury.. A proposal to permanently close the Radical Road the path that runs beneath Salisbury Crags in Edinburgh's Holyrood Park The BMC Access Team are urging climbers to temporarily stay away from southern sandstone crags during England's 'lockdown 2' in.. Euro Sport Climbing Destination Mallorca is one of Europe's finest sport climbing holiday destinations with a wealth of astonishing crags in the mountains and around the coast that present climbers with some of the most attractive venues to be found anywhere in the world The fantastic limestone sport climbing venue of Chulilla has a spread of grades and a beautiful setting With its warm winter climate and perfect limestone Turkey is becoming the holiday destination of choice for the rain-washed European.. Sarah-Jane Dobner shares her second poetry collection I spent two weeks on the climbing paradise of Kalymnos yet climbed the hardest grade I've ever led There are chapels everywhere on the island Or a coiled-up Princess-hair-do of spinach in filo pastry Whilst she slowly pronounces ευχαριστώ Then she gestures to the printed Thank yous I smile and point to Thank you in English lettering At the quay-side church in the coastal town of Pothia Features a scale model of a sponge-diving vessel Are arranged amongst the mother-and-child iconography yellowing candles burn down on a bed of sand Squeezed in together like stuffed vine leaves Shower-hose hand-held in the toilet cubicle Soaking the seat (before the shower head broke off And landed with a smash in the porcelain) and the Yelling Greek at her husband and daughter and us Dragged to the patch of sun in a walkway corridor Propping my tea on the out-of-date fire extinguisher Fig trees self-flagellate as if suddenly acquainted And hasn't had time to pull in at a marina and fill its tanks Half a cup before registering that salt is on the tongue Fliss suggests we invent Kalymnian Bingo - The Greek Orthodox Church celebrates Christ's resurrection a week later than the Gregorian calendar between a model sponging boat and the roof of the building a 6b in the Coeur d'Armeos and a three star flowstone and ending at a huge roof buttressed by stalactite pillars He'd forgotten to tie a knot in the bottom of the rope poetry As someone who aspires to taking his teenage daughter to Kalymnos and belaying her on 8as in return for her top-roping me on the odd 4+ that if you read Resista you can't claim the onsite ;) And yet you also felt the need to comment everybody knows that poetry should be restricted to evocation of trad climbing and has no place in a sport climbing context...…. detailed fashion with its 360 full-color pages and info on the area’s now 1,700 climbs — up from the 1,050 tally in the 2008 guidebook a short boat ride away and home to the same great gray organized by the General Secretariat of the Aegean and Island Policy and the Offshore Committee of the Hellenic Sailing Federation August 17th: Kalymnos – Arrival of boats – Registrations – InspectionsSunday August 18th: Kalymnos – Arrival of boats – Registrations – Inspections – Skippers’ meeting – Opening CeremonyMonday August 19th: 1st Race: Kalymnos – NisyrosTuesday August 20th: Free Day in Nisyros – Award Ceremony for the 1st RaceWednesday August 21st: 2nd Race: Nisyros – Tilos – Award CeremonyThursday August 22nd: 3rd Race: Tilos – Chalki – Award CeremonyFriday August 23rd: 4th Race: Chalki – RhodesSaturday August 24th: Coastal races in Rhodes – Award Ceremonies – Closing Ceremony The President of the Offshore Committee of the Hellenic Sailing Federation invites sailors to embark on yet another magical journey in the Aegean: “The Aegean Regatta is not just an international sailing race; it is an institution in our country’s sailing events with most participants following and participating since the first event we all feel like members of a ‘family,’ in the broader sense It is a major race co-organized by the General Secretariat of the Aegean and Island Policy whose support is the driving force behind the event and by the Offshore Committee of the Hellenic Sailing Federation The sailing clubs of the Aegean islands participate and assist in the organization with the coordinating club for 2024 being ASIATH Rhodes we will once again have the support of the South Aegean Region and all the involved municipalities of the islands along the race route the Aegean Regatta offers participants the opportunity to discover beautiful Aegean islands and to enjoy and have fun with the great cultural events organized by the local authorities of the islands The experienced members who make up the Committees guarantee the excellent and fair conduct of the race I wholeheartedly wish everyone safe arrivals hoping that this year we will gather in Kalymnos with many more participants than in previous years.” Co-organizers of the Aegean Regatta 2024 are the Mytilene Sailing Club the Progressive Cultural Social Union of Vrontados (P.E.K.E.V.) with the coordinating club being ASIATH Rhodes Text Credits: Aegean RegattaPhoto Credits: Aegean Regatta – Nikos Raptis direttore@ilnautilus.it Lindblad Expeditions to Launch European River Cruises in 2026 Is the TV Travel Set-Jetting Trend Actually Lame Bowman’s Travel Brief: Avoid Newark Airport Fiesta Americana Travelty Celebrates Travel Advisors The Top 24 Most Powerful Travel Agencies of 2024 The Strategic Art of Pre-Planning Luxury Vacations: A Perspective for Travel Advisors Photos courtesy of A Cruising Couple unless otherwise noted Rhodes hosts one of the best-preserved ancient fortresses in the world And Mykonos has such riveting nightlife that travelers have been known to miss their ferries day after day Each of Greece's many islands offers something unique to its visitors As for Kalymnos - a Greek island you may never have heard of - that something is world-class rock climbing After visiting busier and more touristed areas of Greece the peace and calm of Kalymnos came as a welcome relief The entire island can be navigated by scooter in less than a day a journey featuring stops at picturesque small beaches lounging at cafes and expansive ocean views as you drive along the open roads Kalymnos a must-visit for any traveler to Greece but the island is especially magnetic for those seeking to conquer its peaks The climbing potential of Kalymnos wasn't fully realized until an Italian climber created routes in May of 1997 climbing photos in Kalymnos were published in Alp and Rotpunkt magazines The first international climbing event took place in October of 2000 with 180 participants Kalymnos has since hosted multiple climbing events attracting some of the biggest names from around the world If you've come with your own gear in hand and you're looking to tackle some routes yourself, here are a few tips to get your started. Kalymnos Climbing Guidebook One of the best resources to consult before and during your trip is the Kalymnos Climbing Guidebook what type of gear you will need and how to navigate the trails There are various shops around the island to rent transportation There is only one main road that runs along the coast of the island and you likely won't need anything more powerful than a 50cc scooter We acquired one for a reasonable 15 euros a day It might be a good idea to bring an international driver's license or motorcycle license just so the shops don't give you any trouble Even though we had rented scooters in Santorini and Rhodes just days before we were almost refused a scooter because we didn't have an international license check the community board outside the Kalymnos Adventure Center Climbers will post their climbing ability and phone number so you can team up with evenly skilled partners Photo via Flickr/Pat_Demassy You can rent harnesses and shoes from the various shops on the island so you'll need to either bring/buy your own or find someone on the forum board willing to share we had never been deep water soloing before It ended up being our favorite activity on the island there is a cave with some great deep water soloing routes for all levels and abilities We recommend renting a standup paddleboard or a kayak from the shop at the end of the pier The cost is 5 or 6 euros per hour depending on what you rent The cave is about a 10-minute paddle on the left side of the port as you exit Take your time and enjoy the beautiful scenery maybe even trying some SUP yoga while you're at it From beginner climbs to professional routes you'll no doubt be able to find something challenging yet accessible If you don't feel comfortable going on your own or you'd like to hire a guide Many of the shops have multi-day climbing courses where you can learn the ropes (literally) You can choose between a beginner top-rope course or Kalymnos is an ideal place for beginner climbers to take their skills to the next level as the routes here are very safe and well protected There is also advanced private instruction available from certified instructors if you want some quality one-on-one coaching • Climb Kalymnos Summer Course • Kalymnos Climbing Center • Kalymnos Climbing Guide • Kalymnos Climbing School friendly locals and a plethora of island hopping excursions For the latest travel news, updates and deals, subscribe to the daily TravelPulse newsletter Mastering the Art of Group Travel Bookings On the Pulse: Rental Escapes Message to Travel Advisors in front of the large Story Tellers audience France's Jean-Baptiste Tribout and America's Boone Speed shared stories about their love for climbing talked about their diets and the legendary Lycra tights so in vogue during that period fueled by the irrepressible desire to explore new vertical and off-vertical terrain previously deemed mpossible The life of the island and its inhabitants has always revolved around water but Hansjörg Auer and Simone Moro drew attention not only to the horizontal horizon but also the vertical sphere during their Thursday visit to the high school at Pothia The two opened the student's eyes to the enormous natural potential locked inland a resource that if used properly can guarantee a future and stop them from having to emigrate Auer and the schoolchildren all went climbing together And many of them tagged along with their parents to check out the evening celebrations and this was one of the best and beautiful signs that the festival had hit the mark untouched lines waiting for their first ascent and the warm crystal clear Aegean Sea beckons you after a hard day of climbing Early morning starts had the climbers out of bed and loaded on to boats to head out to the site of the Ultimate Route Petzl setters had been working in the cave for 5 months finding the perfect lines to challenge the world’s best climbers the boats anchored along side a rocky cliff as climbers traversed towards the shore where they got their first glimpse of Sikati Cave From the shore it’s a crescent shaped cave that would entice hikers and climbers alike But it’s not until you hike up to the edge when your jaw drops and your muscles start to twitch when you see the cave drops another 80m with overhanging stalactites dropping from the deep caves and roof on the west end of the cave the Ultimate Routes were seeping from a huge storm the week before but climbers were able to work through the moves anyway Charlotte Durif (FRA) and Martina Cufar (SLO) both redpointed the women’s route (8b) The super-overhanging route goes on forever climbing 60 meters on psychedelic tufas and surreal stalactites The men’s route continued to keep competitors at bay with several cruxes: a bouldery lower section hard move under the main roof to reach a 6-foot stalactite and a steep headwall spotted with tufa blobs Long climbing days ended with an hour and a half moonlit boat ride on roller coaster seas back to the harbor where ravenous climbers filled the local restaurants Evening highlights included slideshows by Alex Huber Aris Theodoropoulos gave a presentation of the history of climbing on Kalymnos and the newest edition of his guidebook the municipality of Kalymnos graciously organized a Greek-themed evening with traditional music The day the pros were supposed to be resting over 500 climbers participated in the Freeride Rally draws and a harness could try to redpoint as many routes as possible in a day Routes were given point values depending on their difficulty Locals Daniel Christos and Aris Mauromatis took top prize with an impressive list of sends Returning to the Ultimate Route after a couple days of rest Dani Andrada (ESP) and Chris Sharma (USA) redpointed the men’s route (8c) to rounds of applause from the crowd of spectators gathered on the edge of the cave Steve McClure (GB) sent the men’s route and Daila Ojeda (ESP) climbed the women’s Winners were presented with prize packages from Petzl and Prana The crowd gathered for the lottery for local treasures Who knew you could win a chalk bag just for having a Petzl headlamp in your pocket Ultimate Route awards were presented at the Club Loca where DJ LaFouche Said Belhaj and Guillaume Broust kept the crowds moving to the beats till the early dawn concluding yet another kick-ass Petzl RocTrip Greek hospital workers’ union raises alarm after death of Vivienne Taylor The death of a British tourist on a Greek island has been blamed on the “desperate state” of medical facilities in Greece which pose a serious risk to tourists in need of emergency healthcare the country’s union of hospital employees has warned The union said holidaymakers face the danger of doctors struggling with shortages and raised the alarm after the death of Vivienne Taylor on the island of Kalymnos earlier this month Taylor died in an incident attributed to the absence of ambulance availability at night “This is a case of a British tourist dying needlessly because of the desperate state of medical facilities on Greek islands,” said Michalis Giannakos who heads the Panhellenic Federation of Public Hospital Employees (Poedin) ambulances and supplies poses a huge threat to thousands of tourists and of course our own citizens.” Foreign visitors who encountered emergency health problems outside big cities was part of a group travelling on a yacht when she began to complain of chest pains late at night When an ambulance was requested from the local hospital she was informed none were available at night and that she would have to go to the hospital by private means “She was forced to wait until a farm truck could pick her up and take her which wasn’t until 2am and by that time it was too late,” Giannakos told the Guardian “This is what happens if you have the misfortune to fall sick at night on an island like Kalymnos It is absurd when it has 16,000 permanent residents and around 50,000 during the summer.” Doctors said Taylor could have been saved if an ambulance with the proper equipment and personnel had got to her in time More than 3 million UK tourists visit Greece every year Few public sectors have been hit by budget cuts as hard as Greece’s health system during the course of the country’s prolonged economic crisis the result of cuts demanded by the EU and International Monetary Fund in return for emergency bailout funds to keep the debt-stricken country afloat In rural areas cardiologists are almost non–existent along with X-ray machines and other basic equipment Last year a Briton in need of surgery on a badly broken leg was removed from an ambulance and placed on a stretcher among cars on a ferry as he was transferred from the island of Paxos to Igoumenitsa on the mainland “The ambulance didn’t have a ticket for the boat so he was left on a stretcher in the ferry in its car park before being picked up by another ambulance on the other side,” said Giannakos “Such incidents make a mockery of us internationally.” Health ministry officials acknowledged that even Santorini and Mykonos part of the famous Cyclades island chain and among the most popular tourist destinations in the world The islands attract more tourists than any other part of Greece.