Step inside the Hotel Adriatic and you might think you've wandered into a contemporary art museum rather than a boutique hotel in Rovinj
More than 100 pieces of museum-quality art adorn the public areas and guestrooms of this historical hotel situated on the city's bustling harbor on the Adriatic Sea
the striking collection contributes to the Adriatic's luxury status
sculptures and photographs by Croatian and other European artists also reflect the diverse heritage of this charming town of 15,000 on the Istria Peninsula in northern Croatia
part of Croatia's Maistra Hospitality Group
also offers impressive sea views from its shady terrace and 18 sophisticated guestrooms
I found the hotel's location convenient for exploring the city's ancient cobblestone streets and taking daytrips to the Roman ruins in Pula and wineries in Istria's hilly interior
the hotel is the oldest and only luxury hotel in Old Town
Its cream-colored exterior blends seamlessly with the pastel buildings in this pedestrian-only part of the town that is punctuated by a Venice-style bell tower
Leather and velvet-upholstered chairs and sofas invite guests to relax and contemplate the bold
eclectic artwork lining the charcoal gray walls
I was fascinated by a cluster of lifelike owls that appeared to be in flight over the hotel's French-inspired cafe
White stone floors and handwoven rugs contrast with the myriad textures and muted tones of the artwork in the foyer
Floor-to-ceiling glass doors lead to the terrace
a popular gathering place for locals and guests known as the city's "living room."
The hotel's spacious 14 rooms and four suites are individually styled
accent rugs and contemporary paintings and photographs infuse warmth onto the pristine white walls
walk-in showers and plush linens on comfortable mattresses
Bottled scents beside the beds help induce sleep
while espresso machines provide a morning wake-up call
Sea breezes floated into my room from windows offering views of bobbing boats in the harbor
Other rooms overlook the city's main town square
Despite being in the heart of the tourist area of Rovinj
A highlight of my stay was dinner at the hotel's Brasserie Adriatic
The elegant restaurant serves creative gourmet cuisine inspired by the French Riviera
I started with a frothy espresso martini recommended by our knowledgeable waiter
The artful presentation surprised me: six snails in shells poised on a bed of chocolate powder covered with microgreens
Dominik said the dish reflects Istria's rich bounty from the land and sea
My main course of pan-fried sea bass filet with a spinach and potato casserole was equally well prepared and paired with excellent Croatian wines
I skipped dessert for a nightcap at the friendly Caffe Bar
which carries more than 100 brands of whiskey
I decided to try a glass of Croatia's favorite bittersweet liqueur
The hotel's small size limits guest services
the Adriatic offers complimentary access to indoor and outdoor pools and the wellness spa at the nearby Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
A congenial driver in a golf cart whisked me to the five-star resort for an olive oil massage followed by a citrus salt scrub in its luxurious spa
Frequent water taxis deliver guests from the docks across from the hotel to nearby St
Catherine's Island to lounge on the beach and swim in the Adriatic
But the only way to explore Old Town is on foot
Euphemia on narrow cobbled streets no wider than sidewalks
both were closed for repairs during my visit
but I strolled across the plaza for gorgeous views of the clear-blue Adriatic Sea
quaint shops and art galleries line the walkways along the harbor
I found the Old Town's colorful market a fun place to shop for fresh produce
home to one of the best-preserved Roman amphitheaters in Europe
Boat tours run regularly to the beautiful Brijuni Islands
where former Yugoslavian president Tito spent his summers and collected exotic animals
consider a daytrip to the small wineries in the hilly interior of the Istria Peninsula
magical experience in a forest near the hilltop town of Motovun
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Hotel Lone has emerged as a striking symbol of modern Croatian design and luxury
Situated by a breathtaking Adriatic sea bay
its contemporary architecture stands in harmony with the surrounding centuries-old forest park
The hotel is just a short stroll from the picturesque town of Rovinj
offering guests the perfect balance between nature and culture
Discover more from our recent visit to Hotel Lone:
Designed by the celebrated Croatian architectural studio 3LHD
Hotel Lone is a modern reinterpretation of the classic Croatian seaside resort
echoing the mid-20th-century tradition with sea-facing terraces and expansive lobbies
The Y-shaped structure not only optimizes views from every room but also ensures the seamless organization of public spaces around the grand central atrium
Hotel Lone interiors are a tribute to contrast
where minimalist lines and natural materials meet contemporary artistry
Croatian designers collaborated on everything from the bespoke furnishings to the murals and dynamic wall features in the guest rooms
all of which subtly reference Istrian frescoes
This synergy of modern design and cultural heritage creates a timeless
including 11 suites and a presidential suite
is meticulously designed to maximize views of either the Adriatic Sea or the lush Golden Cape Forest Park
Balconies feature mirrored elements that reflect the natural surroundings
while interiors are adorned with warm tones of wood
providing an intimate yet luxurious atmosphere
Hotel Lone’s dining options are a true celebration of regional and international flavors
guests can enjoy exquisite Japanese and Asian cuisine
all in a serene setting that blends the hotel’s iconic design aesthetic with Mediterranean garden views
A wide range of breakfast options is served daily
and table service to ensure a delicious start
The main restaurant also accommodates events and conferences
The Lone Wellness & Spa is a haven for relaxation
it offers everything from a sunny indoor pool
to therapeutic massages and body treatments using aromatic Istrian herbs
the spa meets every need for relaxation and rejuvenation
Cosmetic and beauty treatments are also available in partnership with the hotel located Veir Polyclinic
Beyond its luxurious interiors and wellness offerings
Hotel Lone also boasts an impressive outdoor experience
The expansive pool area mirrors the hotel’s sleek architecture
with multi-level sunbathing terraces that blend into the surrounding forest
Whether it’s a relaxing day at the nearby Lone Bay beach or enjoying live performances on the summer stage
the experience at Hotel Lone is one of effortless elegance and tranquility
what truly makes Hotel Lone unforgettable is the exceptional service
The staff is dedicated to ensuring every guest has a pleasant and comfortable stay
going above and beyond to cater to your needs
The overall experience is promising to leave you feeling pampered and entirely relaxed
Discover more of the Lone Hotel in our gallery:
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Croatia
The Istrian resort of Rovinj is laying on a number of special events for Night of the Museums this Friday
when attractions across Croatia will be open to the public for free
This will be 20th time that Rovinj has staged this cross-city
Things start up at 6pm when the Rovinj City Museum (Trg maršala Tita 11) throws open its doors to offer a number of activities
allowing visitors to play the Roman game of tabula
You can find seafood specialities and local live music being laid on at the Spàcio Matika (Vladimira Švalba 35)
integral to the Batana Museum (obala P Budicina 2) where the namesake traditional boat is in focus
Further round the seafront at Trg brodogradilišta 2
photos by Aldo Pokrajc showcase life in Rovinj feature in an open-air exhibition
For more details, see the Croatian-language page, addresses and opening times reasonably easy to work out. For more about Night of the Museums in Dubrovnik, see our recent article.
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Maltese chef Jeffrey J Vella comes from a family of hoteliers
so hospitality has always been part of his DNA
He used to love watching the chefs working at the hotel
and by the age of ten he started preparing food for his family and whoever else came along
Vella has worked with some of the greatest names in the industry
and Jean Christophe Novelli. He has managed some of the most prestigious properties around the globe
and for the last two years he has been working in Rovinj
with a dedicated team of chefs and sommeliers
“My forte is Mediterranean cuisine based on locally-grown ingredients
I prepare menus exclusively from fresh ingredients
which means that I use in the preparation of meals lots of vegetables
fish and meat types that are 'forgotten' and from which I can prepare amazing dishes.”
His approach towards food was always based primarily on defining locality
seasonal and territorial significant products and create a story about them
he has worked closely with fantastic local producers and fishermen
who are dedicated to what they deliver and produce
We could say locality is now his lifestyle
as after living for years in big cities around the world
Vella is now enjoying his life in Maružini
a small Istrian village only 20km from Rovinj
vegetables and Istria's 'liquid golds' – Malvazija wine and extra virgin olive oil
Rovinj has become the must-visit destination on the Mediterranean
not just because of its picture-perfect scenery
but also for its diverse and high-quality gourmet offer
We asked Vella to list a few of his favourite places that combine the perfect setting
Being located on the 5th floor of the five-star Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
the restaurant features a glass-wall terrace overlooking the marina and the old town of Rovinj providing the most beautiful sunsets
Cap Aureo is mostly inclined towards vegetables
and this is the reason why they call themselves a vegetable loving space
and with the current microclimate adaptations became the new norm
therefore a few items from the menu do change every third week
The wine list has been carefully created to include a number of bubbles and wine labels
while still wines are mostly the product of Croatian wineries
the two-Michelin-star Agli Amici restaurant from Udine opened its restaurant in Rovinj on the Lungomare Plaza promenade right between the Grand Park and the marina
The new place can be described as a unique
sophisticated and elegant place with a picturesque terrace that offers a direct panorama of the sea
This cuisine speaks the languages of Istria and Friuli Venezia Giulia
which can be heard through three tasting-menus created by chef Emanuele Scarello: Godia
The three pathways convey Agli Amici restaurant’s single gastronomic concept of sustainability
This is one of those places in Rovinj popular with all gourmets and history lovers
The tavern draws its guests with its quality and menu
whose originality lies in the traditional dishes that cannot be seen or ordered anywhere else in town
The best way to describe its cuisine is as an old-fashioned fisherman’s food, offering almost forgotten old recipes
The seating area on the outside terrace has views of Rovinj’s most notable landmark
as well as the quaint fishing harbour awash with sailing and fishing boats
not to be missed is the chic French brasserie located on the piazza in the heart of Rovinj’s hustle and bustle
From 7am to noon you can enjoy a delicious and freshly prepared à la carte breakfast
Dinner is served with an affluent French-inspired tone
using locally foraged flavours and ingredients
Here you can also find one of the widest choices of whiskies in Croatia
The locals call this place the town’s living room because of the local vibe
taste of the terroir and the beautiful vista over the town’s main square and the small harbour
Where Eastern Meets Western Cuisine on the Coast of Istria
This is another novelty in the gourmet offering of the town
After being for the last 20 years one of the most visited Asian restaurants with a Michelin recommendation in the capital
Zagreb, Tekka brought eastern flavours to the west coast of Croatia
Here you can really taste the high-quality sushi
all made with the freshest ingredients and traditional techniques
offering both a designer interior and an alluring organic garden terrace surrounded with lovely lawns and pines
The restaurant is not located on the well-known touristic paths
One who comes to this part of the town is either lost or is coming to Giannino to eat good fish
This restaurant is known as the capital of freshly prepared fish since 1972
The menu depends on the fresh catch brought in each day by local fishermen and the food is prepared in a way that honours local tradition and quality
the locals used to spend their evenings in a spacious
with a glass of homemade wine and some fish
One of the last places like this in Rovinj is Grota
located next to the farmers’ market in the very heart of the town
hanging from the walls of this deep-red house
Underneath the batanas there are large wooden wine barrels serving as tables
and the menu features only locally-grown products
prosciutto and salamis that are locally sourced from small producers
Whether you are stopping here for lunch or dinner 'on foot' you will always have a meal with fresh fish (fish burgers
while at the same time creative and full of different flavours
The small and excellently decorated catering facility is located in one of the narrow streets of the old part of the town
Expect a casual atmosphere and great service
Getaway diaries from V’s fashion director
My forced stay in Europe after March shows in Paris
has over time become a blessing in disguise
I joined my parents who have a house in a small town on the Adriatic coast
Given that the member states of the European Union opened relatively quickly and efficiently
I deeply believe that some good needs to be found in every evil so I
for the first time in a while really knocked hard on my reset button
and decided to explore a region of Croatia I hadn’t visited in a good number of years
My mission was to re-explore Istria and its city Rovinj that stands like a pearl of the richest region on the border with Italy and Slovenia
You don’t go to a city like Rovinj if you want noisy nightclubs and parties that require a significant dose of ibuprofen the day after
The “dolce vita” from legendary Italian films with the allure of it all created by legendary Fellini and his many contemporaries is hard to find today
The Mediterranean as it once was is an endangered species
The Cote d’Azur has been taken over by megalomaniac yachts and thousands of influencers while my once favorite destinations like Capri and Portofino have gone wild with prices over the last decade
The goal of this research mission of mine was not to find the most elite destination but the one that is the most original and therefore unique
The essence of hedonism is not crazy parties and glamorous outings
but above all enjoying the seemingly simplest needs: food and drink
Rovinj has proven to be an ideal solution because you can experience the real Istria thanks to breathtaking gourmet adventures
That’s what I decided to do during my extended weekend
Given the anxiety about the future of the fashion world and the chronic desire for fashion shows that did not take place
my best solution was to enjoy Istria while babysitting a rather wild but adorable toddler
The choice for my “home away from home” fell on Grand Hotel Park Rovinj for several reasons; first of all
it’s a unique luxury hotel that was opened only a year ago and has imposed itself as the ultimate destination for one of a kind carefree enjoyment
There is also an unforgettable view of Rovinj
which offers one of the most beautiful sunsets in the world
Another very important factor were the pools that served me as a real training ground for my godson
Grand Hotel Park consists of as many as three pools
of which the most impressive for the Instagram universe is infinite with a view of the city center
while the best for kids swimming lessons is the smallest one with a depth of only 45 cm
Rovinj is located on the west coast of Istria and was first mentioned in the 7th century with the assumption that it originated in the period from 3rd to the 5th century
so almost every household has its own small boat that it uses for fishing or tourism
The view of Rovinj looks like a postcard image from the ‘50s or ‘60s
so it irresistibly resembles a true “dolce vita” movie set
The area of the town market is located in the very center of Rovinj
and all the fruits and vegetables come from small family farms
In addition to the classic offer typical of small Mediterranean places
numerous honey versions and many truffle products for which Istria is famous
in Istria there is something called the “Bermuda truffle triangle” between cities of Pazin
there you can find the best truffles in this part of Europe
Although such scenes in Rovinj are common
it is actually unique to see them because as you pass through the center you witness distinctive forms of shipbuilding and repair of old wooden boats whose secrets are passed down from generation to generation
There is only one thing better than the morning smell of the sea that can wake you up on the hotel balcony: numerous autochthonous plants that are carefully planted on almost all levels of Grand Hotel Park
We woke up every morning to the scents of lavender and rosemary
All this contributes to the overall experience where all your senses are constantly conquered
Istria is world-famous for its Malvasia wine
It is a typical variety of white wine for the Mediterranean
seductive notes with a refreshing effect all day (and night) long
But my full attention was on the “Hugo” cocktail which consists of prosecco
Hugo became my regular partner-in-crime during my stay in Rovinj
I chose the dishes that won me over with their simplicity and innovation
as an appetizer at the Bitinada restaurant
The restaurant itself is located near the ACI Marina overlooking Rovinj
the choice fell on seared sesame rolled tuna loin with cauliflower mousse
Basically these are simple ingredients but the trick is that they have to be local and fresh
Brasserie Adriatic in the very center of old Rovinj thrilled me with a traditional handmade pasta called “pljukanci” served with shrimps
The highlight of the evening was definitely the sea bass fillet with celery cream
these are exclusively local ingredients while the dishes are literally prepared in front of you
First evening was reserved for a haute cuisine experience at the Cap Aureo Signature restaurant
it is a religious experience for all who enjoy the magic of food
The set of four signature dishes lasted a full two hours while each dish was accompanied by a different wine
We started with year-old pickled beetroot with homemade yogurt
There are chips and there are haute cuisine chips
Basically crispy aged potato skin with sea fennel pesto as a dipping sauce
Shopping is a kind of professional deformation of all of us who are actively involved in fashion and although during holidays we promise ourselves that we will ignore the shops
Lungomare Plaza is a danger zone even for those who avoid shopping
you can find everything: from Isabel Marant to Ralph Lauren from Zimmermann to Audemars Piquet
my favorite has become The Park Concept Store
and lifestyle brands such as Marshall and Dr
Perhaps the greatest surprise was my rediscovery of the perfumes from the Roman house Profvmvm Roma
but rather carefully created niche perfumes that are not easy to come across
What is great about the whole concept of Lungomare Plaza is the mix of Croatian designer brands with world-famous names
There are two Croatian brands that should definitely be singled out
Sheriff & Cherry is a playful brand that has already conquered the international market
and shapes that immediately evoke a feeling of carelessness unique to holidays— think
The second is the Croatian pret-a-porter brand A’Marie
which is adorned with sophisticated but romantic minimalism
I highly admire the proportions and fluidity of the materials that make the whole design almost timeless
The great thing about Croatia is that US citizens just have to show a negative COVID test not older than 48 hours (starting from the time of taking the swab until arrival at the border crossing)
Which means there is no nightmare of mandatory 14 days isolation
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Croatia makes history with two MICHELIN Stars awarded in its 2024 selection
The MICHELIN Guide unveils today its selection of restaurants for the Croatian destination
which never ceases to charm travelers from all around the world with its authenticity and brightly colorful landscapes
This 2024 vintage is a very special one for the MICHELIN Guide selection
with the first two Stars restaurant ever in the Croatian culinary history
demonstrating a constant evolution in the quality of the gastronomic offer
and the commitment of both chefs and professionals in the sector
With the addition of a new restaurant receiving a MICHELIN Star and the reconfirmation of no less than 9 restaurants already Starred last year
the Croatian culinary scene is more than ever showing its gourmet effervescence
The Chef Emanuele Scarello and his young brigade crossed an historical stage in Rovinj by settling to the seacoast
on the modern and elegant Marina’s promenade
with a large terrace and a wonderful view on the blue expanse and its leafy islands; and at dusk the church of Sainte-Euphémie adds to the charm
The kitchen is ruled by the resident and very talented chef Simon De Lucca who proposes two flavorful menus; “Rovinj” and “Istria”
one maritime and the other land-based that are highlighting excellent local produce
has helped accelerate the development of the whole restaurant; with his interpretation of cuisine combining technique
and unique tastes in the service of harmony
we can find a fresh and flavorful Mediterranean cuisine with a tendency for raw fish
Among meat dishes - of the highest quality – there’s a Kobe beef or a lamb chop from the island of Pag served with peas
this restaurant contributed to bring back to life Legrad village
elegant and modern aspect of the inside anticipates the cuisine
which proposes Croatian and Central Europe meals
with a certain modernity and creativity degree of technique
barley popcorn and pumpkin oil is excellent
Wine Vault Restaurant – Levante Edition – RovinjThis restaurant
with ingredients from the region enhanced by oriental influences
Great attention is paid to food and wine pairing
with a wide range of local and sparkling wines
Spinnaker – PorecChef Goran Hrastovčak learned everything at Heinz Beck's Pergola how to sublimate the ingredients of a dish
one more traditional and the other more innovative
the cuisine depicts the territory and its emblematic products: langoustines
The lobster ravioli with Jerusalem artichokes and langoustine bisque are excellent
there's a view of Poreč’ pier and a wine list that's not limited to the excellent products of Istria
but represents the whole of Croatia and some other European regions with remarkable labels
Torero - ZagabriaIn the more touristic and lively old town of Zagabria
this restaurant welcomes its guests with a wall covered of plants and leaves symbolizing the Medvednica
a mountain range to the north of the capital
from which the cuisine draws its inspiration
and seeks to awaken the senses by highlighting the different components of taste: sweet
The sommelier will suggest Croatian wines to match the dishes
attentive and pleasant service completes the experience
Don't miss the risotto with Acquerello rice and the Torero version of cheesecake
Zinfandel Food & Wine bar – SplitOn a narrow street in the old town
lively restaurant is open for breakfast until dinner time
and offers a lively atmosphere with live music
The young Croatian chef offers an eclectic cuisine
combining Dalmatian and international influences
The well-chosen wine list covers the whole country
Restaurant Mare - TrogirLocated on the island of Čiovo
5-minutes walk from the historic center of Trogir
the restaurant is at the entrance of the Bifora Heritage Hotel
Chef Robert Predag Zmire offers delicious cuisine based on premium products and a modern technique
like the cuttlefish noodles with wild herb pesto
or the very fresh sea bass ikejime served with a celery variant and parsley sauce
the intimate old stone patio is a charming spot
Konoba Zijavica - Mošćenička DragaIn this charming fishing village
you can watch the chef at work in the small open kitchen
but the real pleasure is to sit on the veranda by the sea
A seafood cuisine where the product is the real protagonist
and be indulgent if something is missing from the menu - it all depends on the daily supply from local fishermen and the fishing season
it's the ideal place to lounge on the beach or take a bike ride on the surrounding heights
- 1 two MICHELIN Stars restaurant - 10 one MICHELIN Star restaurants (1 new) - 3 restaurants receiving a MICHELIN Green Star- 11 Bib Gourmand (1new) - 71 restaurants are recommended by the MICHELIN Guide (7 new )
The full MICHELIN Guide Croatia selection can be found on the MICHELIN Guide website and mobile app (iOS and Android)
13 new restaurants receive their first MICHELIN Star
Three new establishments are awarded the MICHELIN Green Star
based on what's freshest at his local farm
Her fully Italian wine list is farmer first and blends perfectly with rustic Italian cooking
The general manager of the nearly 20-course tasting menu can make time stand still
From listening bars to neighbourhood restaurants
explore all the top recommendations from Chishuru’s Adejoké Bakare
One of the most prominent chefs serving Indian cuisine talks India and his New York
What the MICHELIN Guide Inspectors Saw in 2025
The Mexican capital takes center stage alongside the culinary world's top talents
From Texas Barbecue to Mexico City's cutting-edge dining
these new MICHELIN Guide hot spots promise unforgettable vacations and world-class cuisine
These are the best lake vacations for a summer break
from Lake Tahoe in the US to Lake Como in Switzerland
and the MICHELIN-recommended restaurants and bolt holes to bed down in when you visit
where do fashion’s biggest names retreat for a bite and a bed
We imagine the post-Gala sanctuaries of the chicest attendees
these iconic chefs mentor professional chefs who have an ego
Who knew brisket and biscuits could be so good
From tartan fabrics and stag antler furnishings to rare Scotch whiskies and castle views
you'll have no doubt which country you're in when staying at these Michelin-Key hotels
she has championed America’s farm-to-table movement for 54 years
The self-proclaimed “unofficial talent scout” shares his local favorites from the city he calls home
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Save lists of your favorite restaurants & hotels
The MICHELIN Guide unveils today its selection of restaurants for the Croatian destination
on the modern and elegant Marina\u2019s promenade
with a large terrace and a wonderful view on the blue expanse and its leafy islands; and at dusk the church of Sainte-Euph\u00e9mie adds to the charm
The kitchen is ruled by the resident and very talented chef Simon De Lucca who proposes two flavorful menus; \u201cRovinj\u201d and \u201cIstria\u201d
Among meat dishes - of the highest quality \u2013 there\u2019s a Kobe beef or a lamb chop from the island of Pag served with peas
Wine Vault Restaurant \u2013 Levante Edition \u2013 RovinjThis restaurant
Spinnaker \u2013 PorecChef Goran Hrastov\u010dak learned everything at Heinz Beck's Pergola how to sublimate the ingredients of a dish
\u201cIstrian Fables\u201d and \u201cModern Tales\u201d
there's a view of Pore\u010d\u2019 pier and a wine list that's not limited to the excellent products of Istria
Torero - ZagabriaIn the more touristic and lively old town of Zagabria
Zinfandel Food & Wine bar \u2013 SplitOn a narrow street in the old town
Restaurant Mare - TrogirLocated on the island of \u010ciovo
Konoba Zijavica - Mo\u0161\u0107eni\u010dka DragaIn this charming fishing village
As for the enchanting Mo\u0161\u0107eni\u010dka Draga
- 1 two MICHELIN Stars restaurant - 10 one MICHELIN Star restaurants (1 new) - 3 restaurants receiving a MICHELIN Green Star- 11 Bib Gourmand (1new) - 71 restaurants are recommended by the MICHELIN Guide (7 new )
The full MICHELIN Guide Croatia selection can be found on the MICHELIN Guide website and mobile app (iOS and Android)
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When my wife and I are on a trip somewhere
we always put a little time into finding the best food and restaurants
and some days I’d certainly be happy to grab a Coke and a burger
but we like to experience the local cuisine and occasionally splurge on a neat-looking place
On a recent trip to Croatia, probably the best food we had out of all the cities we visited was in Rovinj, where we spent four days. Most of the places we ate at in Rovinj were just ordinary restaurants that were very good
It’s the door in the middle—there’s nothing to identify it as a restaurant
except the little sign above the door that says
“Wine and something fine…” On the night we had our dinner reservation
This is because this is not a restaurant, per se—it’s a woman’s private home
and she has seating for maybe up to eight people inside
but now she just cooks in her residential kitchen and does her own table waiting and payment processing
she hadn’t even opened for the season yet; we emailed her to ask about reservations
and she replied that she wasn’t technically open but that she’d make an exception for us
The upper level is her bedroom; there’s a sturdy but precarious staircase going up there
and also going down to a bottom floor below street level with a sliding door out to a terrace over the sea
Here’s the view from her main-level window
Can you spot the old rotary telephone peeking out from under the curtain
Think about what it would mean if somebody with a passion for cooking and serving food could give it a go out of their house—just a couple of parties at once
to avoid noise and traffic on a residential street
What if we allowed more individuals to make a little money at a hobby
without asking them to jump through zoning hoops or borrow large sums of money
I think of people featured on Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares
so I opened a restaurant.” Running a restaurant is about 5 percent cooking and 95 percent everything else
Sometimes it seems like we put friction in all the wrong places
a fun break from the Mediterranean fare we’d been having
It’s as close to an international menu as anything we saw in Rovinj
We could barely finish—it didn’t help that we were still a bit worn out from the previous day’s all-day wine tasting tour—but it was so
Several reviews on TripAdvisor complained the food was too small
I was afraid that might be true when I saw that “wine and something fine” sign
and we didn’t even want to drink that night
Just goes to show you can’t believe everything you read on the internet
Some of those rooms up on the top floors are rentals
Now this informal restaurant did not take credit cards
I had to ascend the narrow staircase and walk almost a kilometer to an ATM out on the town square
and thought it was losing some of its soul
I asked her if she knew how old her building was
It was built well enough to be outfitted with plumbing and electricity
It’s been sitting there on that street for longer than my country has existed
And it probably didn’t cost much back in the 1980s
A place like this was just an ordinary place
It’s remarkable to realize that it’s unremarkable here
America isn’t bereft of good urbanism, and Europe has its suburban sprawl, too. But I shudder to think of how many potential North Ends or Old Town Alexandrias this country has razed and rammed expressways through
(Even Old Town Alexandria and Historic Annapolis barely avoided the wrecking ball in the era of urban renewal.) How many people
and how many imperfect but functional neighborhoods we treated as blank slates instead of real places to invest in and improve
our job is less to preserve our traditional urbanism than it is to rebuild it
A collection of historic photos helped this advocate show how urban renewal marred his hometown
and left an inhospitable mess in its wake.
from Smart Growth America examines the tangled history of highway building and so-called urban renewal in the U.S
Addison Del Mastro writes on urbanism and cultural history. He tweets at @ad_mastro and writes daily at Substack
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Led by celebrated chef Emanuele Scarello, Agli Amici Rovinj has just been granted a second Michelin star, a first for Croatia. Set in the Grand Park Hotel Rovinj by Maistra Collection, Agli Amici opened in June 2021, overlooking the marina of this chic Istrian coastal resort.
Within three months, it had earned its first Michelin star for its inventive takes on regional cuisine. Since then, Udine-born Scarello has appeared at several major culinary festivals and established his reputation beyond north-eastern Italy to Istria.
Altogether, ten restaurants in Croatia were awarded Michelin stars by the gastronomic experts, one more than last year.
Advent celebrations are lighting up cities and villages across Istria
from Pula and Poreč to little hilltop communities inland
Great seasonal delicacies and fine wines are a given
Round the coast in Poreč
who can also ride on a Christmas train and visit Santa’s house
Among the many domestic acts booked to entertain the Yuletide crowds
look out for Istrian favourites Gustafi on New Year’s Eve
In nearby Rovinj, as well as a train, kids can ride on a Christmas carousel, but the star of the Christmas show is an illuminated batana, a traditional boat that’s the symbol of Rovinj and centrepiece of this year’s attractions. DJ parties and live acts feature throughout December and early January. See here for more details
Tradition has it that on the Night of St Lawrence
you should make a wish when you see one of the many shooting stars that blaze across the sky at this time of year
Istria is particularly attractive to stargazers
so a number of towns and villages hold special events around the occasion
In Rovinj
as torches line the waterfront and candles illuminate the terrace tables of bars and restaurants
the Roxanne dance troupe will be giving a special performance through the streets and squares of the city
the Trio Viècia Ruveîgno will be singing traditional regional songs
with other acts due to appear along the waterfront Obala Alda Rismonda and around gallery-lined Grisia
Elsewhere across Istria, there will be St Lawrence Night events in Premantura, Lupoglav and Nova Vas, which all stage folk festivals, while perhaps the most atmospheric celebration takes place at St Sophia’s Church, an early Christian landmark among the ruins of Dvigrad, near Kanfanar, where a concert takes place at 8pm on Friday
For pure stargazing, there's no better place in Istria than the Observatory at Višnjan, which is holding special Astro Nights all through August, tickets available here.
Lauren Simmonds
2024 – A heritage and sustainable tourism conference is set to be held in Rovinj
Culture and historical heritage are two of Croatia’s main lures in terms of tourism
and there are very few more fitting locations than this beautiful Istrian town
As Morski writes
cultural and historical heritage are by far the most significant advantage and most important resource of Croatian tourism
the revenues of which represented an impressive 19.6% of GDP last year
which has crossed the threshold of sustainability in many parts of Croatia
also causes issues that represent real challenges for the cities and municipalities where it takes place
That goes without even mentioning the endless problems caused to the local populations in tourist oriented areas
It is precisely in this very excessive (over)development of tourism where crucial advantages become threatened
that crucial advantage is its rich cultural
The Croatian Association of Historic Cities (HUPG) in cooperation with its sister French association Sites & Citès Remarquable de France is organising an international conference called “Heritage and Sustainable Tourism”
This conference focusing on sustainable tourism will put Rovinj in the limelight
It is set to take place on November the 28th and 29th
and will bring together experts and decision makers
who will exchange their experiences and offer solutions to improve the quality of life of local people
and work to properly develop sustainable tourism in historic cities
The French association Sites & Citès Remarquable will bring representatives of French cities that have distinguished themselves in solving the problems faced by Croatian historical cities
The goal of the conference on sustainable tourism in Rovinj is to learn from various European examples of good practice and to find answers to questions that plague multiple Croatian historical cities
The sustainable tourism conference in Rovinj will focus on multiple points of interest
they include: The building of a complete tourist offer that includes and adds value to the tradition and heritage of a given destination
it will delve more deeply into issues such as reconciling the need to preserve the cultural and historical heritage of Croatian cities with their economic exploitation
and how we might achieve balance between providing housing for the resident population of Croatia’s historic cores and accommodation for tourists
as the conference will dive into reconciling the development of tourism and the quality of life of the resident population
and what can we do regarding access to historic centres and the development of “soft mobility” solutions
Soft mobility solutions include access to historic centres that are usually pedestrian zones
and the efficient waste collection in historic centres
The conference will also look into the negative effects of climate change
Sustainable tourism has become a buzzword that many roll their eyes at
especially in many Croatian examples which couldn’t be further from “sustainable” if they tried
EU funds are a great resource to tap into for the financing of cultural heritage restoration
The upcoming Rovinj conference represents an excellent opportunity to exchange best practices from across Croatia and France – two of the most visited countries in the world
and website in this browser for the next time I comment
Croatia’s largest gin festivalFashionable spirit in focus at this major industry showcase
along with the barrels and glasses it is stored in and poured into
Some 50 distillers, distributors and manufacturers from around the region will be descending on Rovinj this month for the third edition of Ginistra
Croatia’s largest international festival dedicated to gin
Slovakia and Serbia will be joining their Croatian counterparts to showcase their wares over the two-day event
taking place over the last weekend in October
the Old Tobacco Factory on the Rovinj waterfront
also welcomes manufacturers of cask barrels
Friends of the Festival this year are producers of local Istrian products such as olive oil and other gastronomic specialities
GinIstra, Bivsa tvornica duhana, Obala Vladimira Nazora, Rovinj. October 25-26. Admission includes the sampling of two types of gin, your own glass to take home and admission to the live shows.
Recent data reveals that an estimated 1.4 billion people traveled internationally last year, marking an 11% increase from 2023. To inspire travelers planning their next summer getaway, digital PR agency Reboot Online analyzed online search trends and travel data to determine the most sought-after European beach destinations for 2025
*Prices reflect the average cost of a seven-night holiday package
Topping the list as the most in-demand destination for summer 2025 is Madeira
with a nearly perfect holiday score of 9.4/10
This sun-soaked island generates an impressive 1.32 million average monthly searches
A seven-night stay costs around £534
The charming coastal town attracts 349,300 searches per month
making it the second most sought-after destination
A seven-night getaway to this stunning Italian hotspot will set travelers back approximately £591
this picturesque Sicilian town has seen a surge in interest
partly thanks to its feature in the second season of The White Lotus
a weeklong holiday here is on the pricier side
Palma offers a relatively affordable seven-night stay at approximately £477
While its search volume (188,800 searches per month) is lower than Madeira’s
with a seven-night holiday averaging £656—£122 more than Madeira
Croatia continues to cement itself as a top European travel destination
with two stunning coastal towns making the top 10 list
Ranked 6th, Rovinj is a picturesque gem on the Istrian coast, boasting 168,600 monthly searches and an ultimate holiday score of 8.3/10. Known for its Venetian-style architecture, charming old town, and stunning Adriatic views, Rovinj offers a perfect blend of history and relaxation
making it a mid-range option for travelers
Hvar has long been one of Croatia’s most glamorous island getaways
Hvar remains a top choice for travelers seeking both relaxation and excitement
A seven-night holiday costs around £592
placing it in a similar price range to Rovinj
May 05, 2025 177 Times Travel
May 05, 2025 487 Dubrovnik
May 04, 2025 918 Croatia
May 04, 2025 622 Opinion
May 04, 2025 820 Croatia
May 03, 2025 906 Dubrovnik
May 03, 2025 1047 Croatia
May 03, 2025 737 Dubrovnik
May 03, 2025 719 Dubrovnik
Key towns in Istria will be celebrating the New Year keeping pets in mind
replacing loud fireworks with eco-friendly light installations
dogs and other creatures have to cower from the din as explosions burst across the night sky
Novigrad and Labin can enjoy spectacular displays safe in the knowledge that the fun is not upsetting fellow four-legged guests and residents
Pula is laying on a day-long musical celebration
starting with a big band at the main market at 10am
moving onto family-friendly tunes at Portarata at 11am
The grown-ups can then enjoy a show by popular Croatian singer Petar Grašo from 11pm
electronica DJs will be keeping the crowd dancing in the Citadel from 11pm
In Poreč
the place to be is the main square of Trg Slobode
where top stars Dalmatino and Istrian favourites Gustafi see in the New Year
Young partygoers get their chance to celebrate at noon
Live acts and DJs perform on central Trg Maršala Tita in Rovinj while Novigrad will bid farewell to 2024 as early as noon with food, wine music and dancing outside the main sports hall, celebrations running until 7pm.
Swimming at RovinjJack Johns & Owen TozerThere’s a routine to any first day back in Rovinj
Walk around the harbour past fishing nets and the knitting-needle click of masts on one side
Then climb shellac-smooth steps through the old town
past the iron-booted diving suit at Veli Jože restaurant
up to the church plateau for a crow’s-nest sighting of the Adriatic
the statue of St Euphemia high above set on ball-bearings so she turns with the wind
Swifts scream overhead like Imperial fighters defending the Death Star
swapping crumbling garrets for brighter homes further out
but there are still semaphores of laundry strung between apartments
a box frame outside like a shrine with wooden lasts and two-tone leather; wilting photographs show smiling men with aprons and cigarettes
There will always be time for Prosecco and scallops and sea truffles at Puntulina
cradled in the rocks where smugglers landed fish in Venetian times and where local youth jump in
brown limbs kicking up flurries of dazzled water
Sometimes I’ll see dolphins loping into a blood-orange sunset – it feels like the restaurant at the end of the universe
A seafood feast at Villa Angelo in MotovunJack Johns & Owen Tozer‘Four years ago, there was a mighty storm that sent waves crashing right over us, whoosh!’ says Giovanni Pellizzer, generations of fishermen behind him, who runs Puntulina like a boat’s skipper. ‘Afterwards we found sea sponges on the roof.’ His father Corrado is the godfather of Rovinj nightlife; after visiting Milan in the 1960s
he opened the first disco in Yugoslavia here
bizarrely accused of playing fascist music
‘My father’s 81 but when he’s with his friends at the Rio café
he’s still in his 20s.’ At the Grota bar in the market
men the same generation gather like Scorsese wiseguys
trading well-trodden jokes in Rovinj-Italian around the upturned barrels
sometimes snapping hands out for a round of morra
pirouettes around with the mid-morning wine
to the fishmongers who stand over rock-skinned scorpion fish
Slipping into the water off Mulini beach and its modernist white promenade, you swim back only to sink calf-deep in pebbles, laughing and flailing around, falling on your knees to wade out. Just around the headland is one of my favourite places, a derelict beach club that’s slowly been zombified, creepers and roots taking over the graffitied swimming pools
Further along the coast the beaches get wilder and more naked
Locals will head to the nearby islands to swim
or over to little coves such as the one at Brsecˇ
with limestone bones that knuckle through the surface
its time as part of Yugoslavia is just a scattering of dust
The beach at BrsecJack Johns & Owen TozerFrom the 1950s, the Istrian islands were designated as the people’s paradise by Tito – war hero, Stalin-defier, and a man with an almost Tudor appetite for exotic beasts – who had his summer home in the Brijuni cluster, driving his Lincoln Convertible around and feeding the elephants given to him by Indira Gandhi. His wildlife park survives
with one solitary tusker and a forlornly surreal atmosphere
Get the angles right and you can line up grazing zebra with Roman ruins and empty beaches
In the gallery are acres of photographs of the man
a homage to wide-lapel beige suits and the stars of the day
He was modest enough to request Richard Burton to play him in a film
strangely sober and bored by the endless translated anecdotes
Taylor basking in the perceived power of it all
waving at sunbathers on the rocks – Tito proudly telling his captive audience that the caves beneath are infested with gunboats and submarines
Many families here have memories that go back 600 years
Olive oil so fresh it kicks like a grasshopper; white Malvazija wine
I stumble across a trio of young chefs who have set up ranch outside Rovinj
bringing intricate seafood plates to painted tables beneath olive trees as the light ripens and fades
strong-armed matriarchs stir pencil shavings of earthy black truffle into creamy pasta
and serve mushrooms gathered in the forest that morning
A challenge would be to go a day without eating truffle in some form
only to be ambushed by a tapenade of olive and truffle
A door in MotovunJack Johns & Owen TozerThose truffles come from Istria’s interior
from around medieval villages that delight in names such as Hum and Vrh
Many exist in various states of abandonment and rediscovery; left to crumble after World War II
with its painted shutters and absence of 21st-century trappings
transformed into an art colony in the 1960s
is now over-run with wind chimes and figurines
garish oil paintings of the sort that decorate coffee shops
the church bell scattered birds above an empty square
and Escher-like steps seem to lead nowhere
A solitary figure with the beard and gauntness of a dissident poet sits on a bench selling local wine
sets flowers in resin and has a Martin Parr-like eye for the everyday absurd
She counts on her fingers and tells me that just 55 people live here
many of the buildings were restored as foster homes for orphans from the Bosnian conflict
Folklore still skulks and snaps twigs in the dense greensward
nocturnal demons and vampire-hunting shaman make for a Balkan Gothic untapped by popular culture
The first recorded story of a vampire comes from the hamlet of Kringa
and a 17th-century figure who kept rising from the dead until neighbours drove a stake through his heart
Beneath the soft waves off Rovinj lies a drowned village known as Cissa
and fishermen claim their nets occasionally snare amphora or bricks
smiles a smile and twiddles the red bracelet she wears to ward off witches
Cliff jumping at Cape KamenjakJack Johns & Owen TozerIn Motovun
grass grows between rippling cobbles; long-shut iron gates guard untended wilderness
its female Tannoy voice repeating ‘fresh fish
hoarse-throated crooners sing of love and loss over plinky-plonk rhythms – Tom Waits meets Eurovision
I side-step off the street and follow a back path braced by vines
down to a cemetery guarded by a cortege of slender-hipped cypresses
stones decorated with the Catholic kitsch of plastic flowers and cupids
Geckos slip in and out of stone walls like tongues
At the top of the village are battlements where you can lean on fossil-dry bulwarks and trace the line of the canal that threads into Slovenia
Motovun is a megacity of almost 550 people
I find 10 of them gathered in the church one evening
male voices joined in acappella; a Croatian klapa choir
Singing has deep roots in Istria; instead of sea shanties
passing notes wordlessly from boat to boat
a towering presence and the local curtain-maker
stands alongside the mayor and a man with badger-hair mohawk; the choir master is the cousin of a cousin of someone else and the voices rise
scrapes its axle and disappears round a bend
MotovunJack Johns & Owen TozerI head back to my friends at Villa Angelo
an 18th-century former customs house with a nose-less stone face above the door lintel
which has been tamed by a thirtysomething English landscape gardener
The floors are laid with stippled local marble from the same quarry that helped build Venice and the White House
There’s a wooden chemist’s counter from Italy
sketches of the Château de Clavary and its Picasso mosaic
and a terrace with a rain-polished farmhouse table
arched windows framing needlework rows of vines
Right beneath is a delicious strip of swimming pool – the only one in Motovun
wrestled out of the hard ground – and a garden hazy-impressionist with lavender and rosemary
a cave-like steam room tucked inside dry-stone walls the colour of crema Catalana
Slip away by boat or bicycle and you can have a cove to yourself
who eloped here from the madness to make his own music and throttles around villages and wild-swimming waterholes on his motorbike
where chef Sasha brings king-prawn risotto and red mullet
shaking his head sadly at our request for no meat and talking about life in the Balkans
‘I would never return but,’ his eyes light up
‘they make Cognac better than the French.’ Istrians can be a little disparaging about Dalmatia and its art of fjaka
the sweetness of doing nothing – or as I’m told by Vanja
People walking on rocks at sunset in RovinjJack Johns & Owen TozerThe feast turns into a pool party, blurs of pale inked skin breaking the water’s surface as lightning veins the darkness. Above, clear skies swirl with million-year-old star-shine: this elevated hill village is an accidental observatory. It seems in the middle of nowhere, but feels more connected to the rest of the galaxy than any city
there is a noise outside the shutters that ebbs then gathers fresh mom-entum
It’s a resonant brightness of feathery static
a glitterball burst of birdsong that seems to oscillate on the same frequency as the sun
Villa Angelo in Motovun sleeps up to six adults and two children
from £2,200 per week including housekeeping
Hotel Adriatic has held a commanding presence on the harbourfront since 1913 but languished rather dustily until being revived with rooms decorated by artists and a dining room all a-flutter with taxidermy owls
craftily fitted into an 18th-century townhouse
its owners a couple from Notting Hill – Adrian and his wife Lea
so there are plenty of local tales to be told
It's right in the centre of the old town
and bright rooms (see above) – all individually designed
tropical wallpaper and the occasional typewriter – fitted neatly in beneath the beamed ceilings
There's even a little lounge bar for sampling the local wines
a sign by the vineyard pointing to the beach; book one of the villas with a private garden to loll in after wine tasting or a couple of rooibus gin and tonics
A plate of truffle pasta on a white rustic plateJack Johns & Owen TozerSTARI PODRUMNear Motovun
Stari Podrum in Momjan is a konoba worth whiling away an afternoon in
and wines brought over from KozloviĆ winery next door
claim an outside table at Puntulina but pop by for an Aperol Spritz on the rocks
at Mediterraneo (avoid the over-priced Valentino nearby)
whose chefs have just opened a garden restaurant in olive groves outside town
St Andrew's islandJack Johns & Owen TozerKeep scrolling to see more pictures of Istria
The best things to do in Split, Croatia's lesser-known coastal city
The best things to do in Split, Croatia's lesser-known coastal cityGallery3 SlidesBy Caroline TrierView SlideshowZadar – Croatia without the crowds
Zadar: Croatia without the crowdsGallery10 SlidesBy James StewartView SlideshowCroatia's best beaches and secret islands
ShareSaveLifestyleTravelA Close-Up Look At Grand Park Hotel Rovinj, Croatia's Newest Five-Star HideawayByAnja Mutic
Forbes contributors publish independent expert analyses and insights
10:25am EDTShareSaveThis article is more than 5 years old.Outdoor pool at Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
Unveiled in April 2019, the five-star seaside hideaway does a stellar job playing with the concept of place. The vistas of the Adriatic, from pretty much any vantage point in the hotel, wherever you stand, are striking. You get to see the fairytale majestic Rovinj
with the steeple of St Euphemia Church rising from its rooftops
You get to see the verdant St Catherine island right across (or catch a complimentary boat shuttle to the hotel's island beach for an immersive experience)
You get to take in sunsets that are downright dazzling
each complete with a large balcony or terrace
the hotel ups the ante when it comes to postcard-pretty vistas and place-infused details
The cascading structure of Grand Hotel Park Rovinj
all properties by Maistra hotel group just steps away
it’s a visually remarkable architectural piece of art – blending in beautifully with the surrounding landscape
named after plant species from the nearby Golden Cape park (cedar
follow the slope of the site and form large terraces with fragrant Mediterranean gardens
a renowned Italian designer and architect known for his minimalism and attention to detail
The booklet leaves you enough blank pages to jot down your memories and impressions
Rooms also come with an instant photography camera to use during your stay
so you can have fun capturing moments and walk away with a great memento of your stay
Àlbaro Wellness & Spa at Grand Hotel Park Rovinj
The sense of place works its way effortlessly into the Àlbaro Wellness & Spa that extends over two floors of the hotel
with indoor and outdoor areas and several swimming pools
including an infinity-edge outdoor pool with views of the old town and the sea
The spa treatments and thermal zones are inspired by Istria and based on freshly prepared ingredients such as botanicals
locally harvested sea salts and fragrant essential oils distilled from coastal herbs and flowers
Signature spa treatments include the Pelinkovac Rakija Ritual
featuring a welcome drink of Istrian absinthe
an aromatherapy massage with anise-infused grape seed oil and a sugar fennel body scrub
a two-hour message inspired by the wooden sailing craft characteristic of Rovinj
is performed on a special wave table that pulses like the Adriatic on a gentle evening
using the handmade Batana balm with hempseed oil
beeswax and lavender and sections of a batana oar to roll and lengthen the muscles
Laurel & Berry restaurant at Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
Local flavors are among the highlights of the dining scene at Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
including the signature Cap Aureo (dinner only) that sends diners on a culinary journey where Asian flavors preside but Croatian ingredients rule the menu (think black Slavonia pork loin
Adriatic scampi and ice cream lollipop with Istrian goat yogurt)
focus is on Mediterranean fare featuring local foodstuffs
like handmade fuži pasta with hand-picked porcini and truffles
boškarin beef carpaccio with homemade marjoram focaccia and baked Adriatic sea bream cooked en papillote
there are those views from almost anywhere you look
the views that are bound to stick and inspire long after you return home
Perfect material for jotting things down into your own Rovinj Diaries
travel has been essential to my personal growth and I'm lucky to have seen many parts of the world
So after several years of being unable to scratch my travel itch thanks to the pandemic
I knew that I wanted to visit somewhere with fewer crowds
where I'd feel comfortable as a solo female traveler
and a place that could provide me with a mix of history
a crescent-shaped country that hugs the Adriatic sea in Southeastern Europe with medieval architecture
I decided on a road trip so I'd be able to maximize my time while operating on my own schedule
My itinerary involved landing in Zagreb and then slowly making my way down to Dubrovnik over the course of two weeks
but I did make a handful of mistakes that I'd redo if I could.
Weather is one of the first things I consider before splurging on a plane ticket
Contending with the rainy season or walking long distances in hot
I also try to vacation during shoulder seasons to avoid peak crowds and more expensive rates.
My trip to Croatia took place from mid to late October
when the weather was a consistent 70-degrees Fahrenheit and the summer crowds were long gone
noting that some small towns are "dead as a door nail" on the off season.
some vendors I wanted to visit were closed for the season
while others either opened late in the day or closed early
but since most tour guides cancel tours if they don't reach their minimum attendance
it felt like an instance where I just got lucky
My guide mentioned that if I would have arrived a few weeks earlier
I would have had a bit more company.
I was also the only person in attendance for my truffle hunting experience in the Motovun forest
though the guide let me know that if I'd arrived a few weeks earlier we'd have been able to find more truffles
I reserved a midsize rental car for my road trip
which would have been perfectly fine if I was road tripping in the United States
I quickly realized that a smaller car is a must in certain parts of Croatia due to narrow roads and small parking spots.
Though my car rental initially seemed fine to me
it was apparently considered large by the locals
I had someone comment on my "big car," which I didn't think much of until I found myself in a few pickles
One generous Airbnb host helped me extract my car from a teeny-tiny parking space in an ordeal that took roughly 20 minutes
There was also a moment when I got stuck on a narrow
dead end street in Split and had to do a stressful 42-point turn that involved getting out of my car and moving a bistro table out of the way.
A smaller rental car would have saved me a lot of grief navigating the narrow roads in bigger cities.
Since I opted for a road trip through Croatia
I completely dismissed anything to do with boating or water.
Croatia is renowned for its stunning islands and water activities like snorkeling
I thought it was too cold to get in the water or sunbathe
but I wish I had either visited when it was warmer or island hopped by boat
even if I wasn't actually going to enter the water
Many tourists in Croatia head to cities like Split
is tucked high in the northwestern part of the country
Even while Istria is a little out of the way
I think it is an absolutely stunning part of the country
it felt greatly influenced by Italy with family-run wineries
a sea town with winding cobblestone streets but would have loved to spend two or three additional days exploring the area
as it was easily the highlight of my entire trip.
the host sends me pictures of my tree and bottles of olive oil
which is located on the western Dalmatia coast
is the second largest city in Croatia but is quite small
It was one of my favorite places I visited but after four days in Split
I realized I could have explored the city within two days.
I was walking around in circles and trying to figure out ways to bide my time
this gave me a moment to pause and take things slowly
But since I was trying to see a lot of the country in two weeks
and soaked up everything in Split over a shorter period
That said, I missed out on some cool road trip stops during the latter half of my trip where some drives were even longer. A few more hours of research looking into driving routes could have presented additional memorable pit stops and helped make longer drives more fun.
For instance, on my way from Rovinj to Plitvice, I wish I would have swung through Opatija, a 19th century resort town with Hapsburg-era architecture, or spent time checking out Trogir, a history-rich town about an hour north of Split.
After a couple days driving on concrete highways without a lot of scenery out the window, such as from Zagreb to Rovinj and Rovinj to Plitvice, I decided I was going to take the scenic route from Plitvice to Split.
While I thought the views were heavenly, I found that the never-ending zig-zag roads were difficult to navigate, and that some drivers were aggressive. I had a couple close calls with drivers passing in blind zones and my heart rate spent much of the drive well above its resting pace.
Not to mention, I found the endless winding roads to be tedious after about an hour, and I really couldn't enjoy the views that much since my eyes were firmly focused on the road. Plus, the scenic route took longer than if I had opted for the more direct route.
I have a habit of ditching bigger cities ASAP when traveling under the assumption that I don't need much time in them.
So I only planned two nights and one full day in Dubrovnik. My goal was to have a nice landing pad before my flight back home. However, the second I arrived in the stunning medieval city, I knew I'd made a mistake.
There's a ton to see and do within, and outside of. those medieval walls, such as walking the walls, top-notch dining, and historic tours. It's also a great home base for venturing to nearby destinations such as Mljet National Park, the countryside, a number of Croatia's beautiful islands, and the country of Montenegro. I could have easily spent four or five days exploring Dubrovnik versus the two I had.
NewsletterExplore the best restaurants
A giant among this honey-coloured fishing town’s many restaurants and practically within touching distance of its Baroque church
Monte is blazing a trail for Croatian haute cuisine on the world stage
it became the first restaurant in the country to be awarded a Michelin star
sourcing many of his ingredients from the local farmer’s market and his sommelier wife
takes a similar approach on an exclusively Croatian wine list
There are three tasting menus to choose from on any given night
one plant-based and another formed entirely of what the restaurant calls ‘intriguing creations’ – technique-driven
ruthlessly contemporary dishes presented with a tremendous eye for detail
An al fresco seating area with billowy linen curtains is lovely on a balmy evening
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Kevin Casey is a professional freelance writer
the charms of coastal Croatia aren’t much of a secret any more
this is a country that averages a higher percentage of annual tourists per local population than any other nation on earth—close to 20 million visitors a year
But here’s the good news: if you avoid the peak months of July and August, you can still find plenty of quiet, charming places to hang out and enjoy the sunny charms, breathtaking scenery, and friendly people of Croatia
There’s a whole lot more to this part of the world than just Dubrovnik
If you take the time to venture further from the well-worn tourist track
it’s amazing how many beautiful places you’ll discover
one of the best under-the-radar spots is Rovinj
Rovinj (pronounced Roveen by the locals) is a small
picturesque fishing port situated along the western coast of the Istrian Peninsula in Croatia’s north
Although it feels thoroughly relaxed and far removed from the bustle of better-known destinations
it’s quite accessible to popular European hotspots: both Venice and Ljubljana are less than three hours away by road
with one-way bus prices starting at around $16
The first thing you’ll notice about Rovinj is how clean
There’s virtually no graffiti here (a rarity in so much of Europe) and the locals take pride in keeping the whole area in immaculate condition
It’s an ideal town for leisurely strolling
with views of the blue Adriatic around every corner and a profusion of narrow
cobblestoned streets leading to tiny squares
Passing through stone archways framed by flowering bougainvillea
you’ll head uphill to arrive at the town’s centerpiece—the Church of St
Towering high above everything else is the bell tower
boasting a spectacular view that’s reached by huffing and puffing up 192 creaky wooden steps to a breezy lookout
Because the Istrian Peninsula is less visited than the Dalmatian Coast
Rovinj isn’t overrun with the large crowds found in other parts of Croatia
either: sunny days are common and daytime temperatures tend to hover around 50 to 54 F
It’s like a fairy-tale town over Christmas
I feel April/May and September/October are the best times to visit Rovinj
and lower prices than you’ll find in the height of summer
Just be aware that some attractions and restaurants close down over the November to April period
Despite its small size (around 14,000 permanent residents)
Rovinj offers plenty of things to see and do
Because Croatia has close ties with its neighbors across the Adriatic
there’s an Italian flavor to the food scene in Rovinj
The real stand-out here is the fresh seafood—it’s as good as you’ll find anywhere in the country
The options are truly dazzling: grilled shrimp
and cod in white wine are just a few dishes to try
pizzerias and beer gardens away from the tourist center
where you can enjoy a filling two-course lunch for around $11
The fresh seafood platter at Konoba El Niro restaurant is hard to beat if you’re keen to sample some of the local catch
make your way to Chocolat for some of the finest gelato in Europe
water temperatures around Rovinj average a pleasant 75 F
and the beaches north and south of town are lovely
Expect more small pebbles and rocky coves than sandy stretches
Mixed in with all the natural shorelines are some interesting man-made coastal rock pools
paved sunbathing areas and family-friendly beaches complete with showers
a quick walk will take you to Balota Beach
rocky shore (for experienced swimmers only)
you can get a boat across to one of the islands or take a walk along the coast to Saline Bay or Cape Cross
clear waters of Zlatni Rt Beach offer excellent swimming and snorkeling and in the reserve itself
There’s even a free rock-climbing area in a nearby quarry
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the Farmer’s Market comes alive with local vendors and shoppers keen to find the best bargains on fresh produce
and regional products including soft cheese
Bring cash (Croatian currency is called ‘kuna’; 10 kuna equals $0.15 USD) and get there well before 10 a.m
The markets are close to Valdibora square in the old town
the fresh fruit and veg is cheap and plentiful and you’ll also get a good deal on truffle oil and porcini mushrooms
you’ll save loads of money by shopping for fresh goodies here each day and cooking for yourself instead of relying on restaurant meals each night
Rovinj is surrounded by water and provides access to more than a dozen beautiful offshore islands and a selection of ‘secret’ beaches
Seeing this area by boat is one of the best ways to experience its beauty whether your aim is snorkeling
or sipping wine as the sun sets over the railing
If your travels take you north to the town of Porec
sample a sea kayaking tour along one of Croatia’s most stunning coastal features—the fjord-like Lim Channel
which snakes up the Lim Valley for more than six miles
Other cruises include parasailing adventures and there’s even a full-day trip from Rovinj to Venice by high-speed catamaran (it’s only 68 miles away by sea)
Although the bus system around Rovinj is reliable and there are a range of interesting day-trip tour options available
you can explore the region more freely by hiring a car and heading out on your own
Both Pula and Porec are only 45 minutes away
or you could drive 50 miles north to scenic Piran in an hour and a quarter (not including the border crossing time into Slovenia)
Another pleasant option is to take the coastal road to the east toward Rijeka
This lets you see parts of northern Croatia that few tourists ever visit
stopping at pretty spots along the way at your own pace
Hire car costs in Rovinj are reasonable—$45 a day is average
Road quality varies but is generally acceptable; the biggest problem is keeping your eyes on the road while all that eye-popping natural scenery flies past
Because Croatia is one of Europe’s least urbanized nations
I consider the journey between Rovinj and Zadar
to be one of the most spectacular road trips on the planet
Rovinj (and the region that surrounds it) is not the sort of place you’ll want to rush through
It may be quieter than other parts of Croatia but it’s never boring
Many visitors even decide this is their favorite part of the whole country
friendly feel that oozes relaxed livability
Croatians are justifiably proud of their country
and you’ll make some great friends here if you spend the time and try to live like a local
Make your way down to a seaside bar at dusk for the view and some instant socializing—you can’t go wrong
Accommodation costs in Rovinj depend more on the time of year than anything else—in the summer
prices go up and choices can be more limited
it’s not hard to find a decent Airbnb apartment in the heart of the old town for less than $50 a night
Rovinj is super-compact: everything you’ll need
There are several ways to get to Croatia from the U.S
I flew into Rome and then entered the country by bus
I immediately noticed how much cheaper my living costs became on the Croatian side…
4 Coastal Cities in Croatia Perfect for Part-Time European Living
Dubrovnik: Sun, Sea, and Ancient History in Croatia’s Breathtaking South
Explore Zadar: Croatia’s Coolest, Quirkiest Seaside City
The kooky old town of Rovinj and its various charms make it one of Croatia’s best summer destinations
Here’s how to make the most of your time…
Rovinj is the shining star of Croatia’s Istrian coast
Its deeply dramatic old town presides over its own peninsula in an eye-popping sweep of bright
with influences from across the Adriatic Sea permeating the culture and cuisine
it’s a buzzing town that today is both a historic time-warp and simultaneously a popular visitor resort with all the trimmings
Climb a colourful hike to reach the Church of St Euphemia (Shutterstock)
The first thing you must do if you can is hike up to the Church of St Euphemia
This icon of the city stands proud overlooking the town
with epic views of its narrow streets and the sprinkle of surrounding islands
this grand dame boasts Istria’s tallest belltower
clearly modelled on the campanile in Venice
with the figure of Saint Euphemia sitting proudly at the top
Euphemia’s heavily waxed relics can be viewed through a panel in the sarcophagus
A more recent poignant addition is the wooden altar donated by refugees from the Croatian city of Vukovar
to thank the Istrian people for their help in the aftermath of the Serbian siege in the 1990s
artists and craftsmen were encouraged to set up little studios and workshops here
most of the outlets are independent souvenir shops
but there is still some real quality craftsmanship and artistry amongst the tourist tat
It’s an atmospheric place to flit through the galleries and shops
Bonus: you can often talk to the artists themselves inside
The movers and shakers of Rovinj see the town developing into a ‘Croatian St Tropez’
so they’re firmly behind the ever-improving foodie scene
In addition to the old schoolkonobas (taverns)
there are some seriously fine places to dine
At Monte
the brilliant creativity and immaculate local sourcing has won this old town restaurant a deserved Michelin star
making it one of only four Michelin star restaurants on the Croatia coast
Kantinon offers the best of both worlds
Make sure to try the local bone-dry Malvazija white wines
Istrian truffles are another delicious delicacy
Head to the close-by (and impossibly stunning) Lim Fjord
to savour its boat-fresh mussels and oysters
An example of traditional folk dress in Croatia (Shutterstock)
For culture and history, head to Rovinj’s Town Museum
which is housed in a baroque building that is a work of art in itself
Inside you will find traditional folk costumes
artefacts unearthed from local archaeological digs
ranging from Pietro Mera’s ‘Christ Crowned with Thorns’
through to a number of works by Venetian artists
including Jacopo Bassano and Giovanni Bellini
Don’t forget the avant garde creations by Rovinj’s contemporary painters
A side view of the Franciscan Monastery in Rovinj
Many tourists miss the remarkable Franciscan Monastery
It was originally consecrated in 1710 and fashioned in a dramatic baroque style atop of a mound
Highlights include the old library and its museum
which is home to an array of 18th and 19th century paintings – there are over 200 works in total within the monastery
They also have a collection of old robes and other ecclesiastical artefacts
Sunsets generally only come in the spectacular variety in this part of the world
The best place to see the sun slip down over the old town peninsula is from the tiny island of Sveti Katarina
Euphemia and the rest of this striking Venetian–era town explode in a collage of deep reds and burning oranges
Alternatively take a cushion and sit on the rocks at Valentino’s Cocktail and Champagne Bar (Santa Croce 28) in the old town
though perhaps not totally environmentally-friendly
Head out onto Rovinj’s crystal clear waters via boat trip (Shutterstock)
the best views of Rovinj are from the water
but nothing beats easing along on a sea kayak right on the water
looking pretty much like it did when the Venetians held sway
Local operator Adistra can set you up with a kayak and the gear – they can even show you the ropes if you’re a first timer
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Nestled amongst a forest of lush pine trees
with a view looking out to the Adriatic sea and rich woodland behind it
Like a futuristic cruise ship that has decided to dock on land
it looks out of place but at the same time like it was always meant to be there
Part of the Maistra group of luxury hotels in Rovinj
style and cultural heritage and TLE got the chance to experience everything that this simply stunning hotel had to offer on a recent trip to Rovinj (read our guide to the town)
it is clear to see that The Lone is all about design; from the communal areas right through to the finishes in each bedroom
virtually everything has been designed specifically for this hotel
The hotel is set across six floors with three restaurants
a wellness spa (more about this later on) an outdoor pool area and beach
To the left of the Lone is the Eden and to the right the Monte Mulini. A ten minute walk and you are in the centre of Rovinj. (read our guide to Rovinj town)
Walking through the main entrance you are immediately met with the wow factor that this building oozes
arriving on level two the entrance foyer provides views up to the top of the building and right down to the
given a thorough brief of everything in the hotel
you receive two towel tickets with your stay which you need to use to get a beach towel outside and also those magic words were spoken “free wifi throughout the hotel and no login needed” (why can’t every luxury hotel do this!!)
In fact the wifi worked right down at the beach as I sat sunbathing on a lounger
which we stayed in are 33 sqm with a generously proportioned bathroom; Grand rooms are 37 sqm
If you want something extra special book a Jazz room which includes its own private balcony and pool on the balcony
The last room type are the family class rooms
We had a premium room on the 5th floor which presented a view out to sea and the forest behind (if you want a sea view take a room on the right-hand side of the hotel) although every room in the hotel has a view the right has slightly better ones
The bedrooms are finished in wood and stone with fabric finishes across the bed wall and sidewall
There is a separate reading area with two bespoke chairs and each bedroom includes its own balcony
Some of the little finishing touches I liked
I love, love, love (Malin + Goetz) products so I was super excited to see that the hotel stocked them as their bathroom amenities and they don’t cut corners there were 8 large tubes of the brand in the bathroom
in a lightbulb-shaped bottle and two bottles of mineral water
The wall to wall mirror in the bathroom is super useful when you are getting ready and for taking selfies….Mentioned already but there is free wifi in the rooms and there is a plug point on each side of the bed/s
the lighting isn’t super complicated to use
but you can change the lighting in the room to suit your mood
The bathroom is larger than a regular bathroom given the size of the room
the oversized sink is good if there are two of you fighting for the sink and there is a seperate shower and bath
The whole bathroom is finished in rich dark tiles
Wellness Spa – I was told the Croatians are not prudes and this is certainly true in the spa department
The wellness spa is a large complex 1700 sqm
and substantial gym as well as hydro pool centre there is plenty to choose from
My prudish British senses kicked in when I realised that the spa area must be done in the nip, however
I went for it and let the wind beneath my wings and after a few minutes forgot I was sitting in a sauna with nothing on talking to my friend
Spa – If you are looking to peel back the years the Wellness spa also has a range of massage treatments to unwind
Outdoor Pool – The hotel has a large outdoor pool area (in fact it is a few pools on various levels with an outdoor bar a brief two min walk past the pool area and you are at the beach
Dining – The hotel has three restaurants ‘L’ ‘On’ and ‘E’ as well as a bar and deli
which is on the ground floor and opens out to the terraced outdoor area
Food focus is on ‘slow food’ using Central-European recipes and is reasonably priced and a thumbs up for having a number of vegetarian dishes
Breakfast – Anyone that knows me knows I am a greedy pig
so a substantial buffet breakfast makes my eyes light up and the Lone doesn’t let itself down
As you can see from the pics there is a massive choice of food breakfast food
being veggie I like the fact that there was a big selection of veggie options too – they have a chef that cooks eggs to order and I thought what was quite nice was that they had tofu as well
not something you normally see in a hotel breakfast
but it is the hotel’s unique design combined with a stunning location that makes it extra special
You won’t find many hotels with this standard of contemporary finish set next to crystal clear water (and I mean crystal clear) and a stunning historic town a stone’s throw away thrown into the bargain
in my opinion it is more for couples than a family
Paired with its easy access to the town centre and extensive pool area its perfect for a complete chill-out
Website: www.maistra.comAddress: Ul. Luje Adamovića, 52210, Rovinj, Croatia
Ross is one of the co-founders of The Luxury Editor.
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Fancy oysters straight from cages underneath a pontoon? Kirsty Masterman immerses herself in a destination perfect food lovers and history buffs
A mosaic of attractive truffle forests, hilltop towns, olive groves and vineyards, it’s easy to fall in love with Istria, a heart-shaped peninsula in the Adriatic Sea. Lying across the water from Venice, it’s a secret paradise for food lovers and history buffs alike
I arrive on a fresh spring morning for a whistle-stop tour of the region’s most popular towns – Pula, Rovinj and Motovan. My lodgings for the duration are at the contemporary Lone Hotel by Maistra Collection in Rovinj on the west coast of the Istrian peninsula
surrounded by the lush Golden Cape forest park and overlooking the turquoise Lone Bay
I start my adventure in Pula, a seafront city and Istria’s largest. At 3,000 years old, it is one of the oldest urban areas in Croatia and has been occupied and destroyed many times
making it a city with plenty of stories to tell
Just outside the city walls, the 2,000-year-old Pula Arena dominates the landscape. The sixth largest remaining Roman amphitheatre in the world, it’s thought to have held around 23,000 at its peak. I stand in the centre of the arena, gazing upwards and picturing everything from boat fights, hunting spectacles and gladiator battles to modern-day concerts (Dua Lipa is one of the many singers scheduled to play here this summer)
As I leave the arena behind and head to Pula’s main square
evidence of the many different rulers this city has come under are plain to see
Austrian and Albanian architectural influences all sitting side by side
Read more: Best hotels in Dubrovnik
Read more on Croatia travel:
Later in the evening, I head to dinner in Rovinj at Puntulina
a family-owned restaurant hidden away down the cobbled streets in the heart of the old town and overlooking the water’s edge
ensuring everyone has a picture perfect sunset view
I am whisked away to Lim Bay on Istria’s west coast
this canyon-like estuary is home to some of the country’s finest oyster farms and a great place to experience the region’s farm to plate ethos
Following a peaceful cruise along the bay to observe the oyster farms
a tiny ramshackle hut on the edge of Lim Bay
where tourists can sample oysters straight from red cages underneath the pontoon
I am perfectly timed for my initiation to this delicacy
Drizzled with a healthy dose of lemon juice
I scoop out the mollusc and swallow it whole
The salty freshness makes me an instant convert
Following a hearty lunch of seafood delicacies
it’s time to see what the charming coastal town of Rovinj has to offer
Surrounded by lush green landscapes and crystal clear waters
the bustling town harbour is packed with local batana fishing boats and twisting
I enter the old town via the 17th-century arching Balbi town gate
one of the most iconic landmarks in Rovinj
stumbling across some of the country’s finest seafood restaurants sandwiched between tightly clustered multi-coloured houses
The harbourside and open-air cafes may be busy but there is no sense of overcrowding
Motovun – meaning ‘a town in the hills’ – is an ancient walled city perched high on the hillside
The area itself is renowned for truffle hunting and wine
the hilltop town of Buzet is home to the family-owned business Prodan Tartufi
which exports truffles to 35 countries and countless restaurants
owner Ben has just returned from a hunt with a healthy haul and the dogs are beyond excited
He selects his next two hunters – Trophy the Dalmatian and Lila the Labrador
I jump into the van and we head to the Kontija forest to begin our scavenging
Lila starts frantically digging and Ben has to be quick to retrieve the ‘gold’ from her jaws
but I somehow suspect she would have rather had the truffle
Before long we have a worthy haul and head back to base
where Ben gets the scales out to put a true value on our finds
I am rewarded generously with freshly prepared and deliciously creamy scramble eggs infused with truffles
accompanied by a board of truffle cheeses and meats
Continuing with the truffle theme, I dine at Michelin-starred Zigante
known for its truffle-infused cuisine and owned by a Guinness World Record holder
found a white truffle weighing in at 1.31kg in the Motovun forest near Livade
which could have made him a cool €1 million
he instead chose to serve it to guests at a special dinner so that everybody could enjoy it
This gesture put Livade on the map as a world centre for white truffles
Zigante makes multiple dishes inspired by different types of truffles
the most unusual being black truffle ice cream
His zest for culinary experimentation doesn’t surprise me
every town is infused with history and the chefs embrace their local delicacies with passion
With its captivating scenery and exceptional wines to boot
this region has certainly left a lasting taste in my mouth and a thirst to return
Doubles at Hotel Lone Rovinj start from £146 (€170) per night
Read more: Croatia travel guide – everything you need to know before you go
Join thought-provoking conversations, follow other Independent readers and see their replies
Grand Park Hotel Rovinj by 3LHDDec 11, 2019 11:04 am EST3LHD recently completed the Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
In order to blend into the existing forest
the floors offset to follow the slope of the site and form large terraces
A bar with a terrace and an a la carte restaurant are located in the lobby and the reception area
which is connected to the main restaurant with a central staircase
Great significance in the hotels' view was given to five pine trees that have been growing on the site for over half a century
The congress hall overlooks the Rovinj peninsula
a sunbathing area and three swimming pools
extending on two floors overlooking the surrounding woods and the town
The main pool is partially placed in a glass pavilion that opens in the summer
intertwining the interior with the park and the sea
Italian architect and designer Piero Lissoni was in charge of interior design
Public spaces are characterized by a multitude of details
a large number of types and specific pieces of furniture that
Special attention was dedicated to styling
Earthy tones and colors prevail in the rooms - a counterpoint to the blue sky and sea that surround the hotel
The areas alongside the promenade are functionally and formally different from other spaces
They are intended to be a new space for social gatherings
A relaxing atmosphere is created by water surfaces
which frame particular content zones and makes the whole area both attractive and accessible
-1===document.cookie.indexOf("jvv=1")&&((adsbygoogle=window.adsbygoogle||[]).requestNonPersonalizedAds=1);(adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});Photography: Jure Živković
ZagrebCroatia
Phone +385 1 2320 200
Website 3lhd.com
Category Architectural Design Studios
images of slimy beaches are making their way around the web
Croatian and Italian coasts are said to be particularly affected
Some holidaymakers are even "so disgusted that they are driving off the coast to find a clean bay"
August is the most important vacation period for Italians
But those who have now come to the vacation resort of Rimini on the Adriatic coast are out of luck: the water on the coast is covered in a strange foam," writes one X user
posting a video of the evidence and asking: "Would you want to swim in water like this?"
A user posts a photo on Facebook that also shows the notorious algae slime - or "sea snot" - in a strong form
Holidaymakers have to "deal with the disgusting goo" on numerous beaches
The popular vacation resorts of Rovinj and Poreč are currently particularly affected
The slime seems to be getting thicker - and, if you look around on social media and talk to vacation returnees, it also seems to appear more frequently and consistently around late lunchtime. According to experts, this is probably primarily due to the water temperature - which is now over 28 degrees Celsius in the Adriatic
Swimming fun in Pula is also somewhat dampened:
A veritable paradise for so-called phytoplankton
which multiplies particularly quickly at high temperatures - hence the name "algal bloom"
Waste water or agricultural waste may also serve as a breeding ground
A few weeks ago, the "Krone" had the opportunity to see the situation in Rovinj for itself - and asked marine biologist and underwater photographer Marc Stickler: "It may be unpleasant for people
It is generally recommended to take a thorough shower afterwards
"We just need to change the bay"Kristijan Antic, who runs a boat rental company in Croatia, also has a very valuable tip in his blog: "For us boaters
the following applies: if there is a sea bloom
we have a clear advantage - we just need to change bays."
you should probably try to find bays that are "open to the south or east
There will be less sea snot there," the local is certain
Bad for fishingThe problem of algal slime has been exacerbated by the heatwaves of recent weeks
according to the fishermen's association Confcooperative Fedagripesca
The slime obstructs the propellers and makes it very difficult to clean the mechanical elements
There have also been complaints about damage to the nets
the slime is just one symptom: the consequences of climate change are now becoming increasingly apparent
In view of water temperatures of more than 30 degrees
Italian experts were already talking about a "tropicalization" of the Mediterranean at the end of July
which are increasingly being reported in summer
are also a sign of the climatic changes affecting the Adriatic
"Adriatic Sea has reached temperatures of the Maldives""The Adriatic Sea has reached temperatures of the Maldives
but without their colors," marine biologist Roberto Danovaro told the newspaper "La Repubblica"
the living conditions are ideal for tropical fish
which are spreading more and more in the Adriatic
but the long-term consequences of climate change are not yet foreseeable
Biologists and chemists are testing the water in the Adriatic this summer
The aim is to get a clearer picture of what is really happening in the water as a result of climate change
This article has been automatically translated,read the original article here
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Croatia – It was another day of great sailing in Rovinj
where the first event of the Melges 24 European Sailing Series 2022 is underway thanks to the organization of the Croatian Melges 24 Class Association
The wind turned towards south-southwest and dropped to 7-10 knots
a sign of a distant storms: conditions were not easy to manage by the less experienced helmsmen
which affected the results and the provisional ranking
still led by the Croatian Corinthians of Mataran 24 team (today 23-8-1)
Ante Botica’s crew was able to recover after the first not so brilliant race
compensating the discard with the victory in the third race of the day
After six races Mataran 24 is now leading with a five points margin on Italian Michele Paoletti’s Strambapapà (7-3-4)
that were honoured as a Boat of the Day along with another Italian
top performances among the Corinthians crew (9-11-11)
doing too many mistakes during the pre-starting procedure
and we are satisfied about our performance today,” Michele Paoletti told once on the dock
I can only have words of appreciation for this unbelievable boat and for its Class that
enjoys a more balanced level than the American one
we will not be able to participate in all the stages of the circuit
but we will not lose the opportunity to be present when possible
ending the season at the Europeans in Genova in October.”
Trailing the crew of the former Italian Olympian Paoletti
is now Ivan Kljakovic Gašpic’s Universitas Nova (2-14-13)
The Croatian Finn class Olympian lost one position in the overall ranking despite a good opening race but is still defending the provisional podium by one point on Italian Paolo Brescia’s Melgina (3-5-12): the overall winner of the 2021 Melges 24 European Sailing Series is having a great comeback
the Top Five is completed by the crew of Niccolo Bertola’s Taki 4 (4-9-11)
just six points behind from the third step of the podium
After 6 races and one discard Top Five is: 1
MATARAN CRO383 (COR) of Ante Botica 1-3-7-(23)-8-1 20 pts 2
STRAMBAPAPA ITA689 of Michele Paoletti 2-9-(14)-7-3-4 25 pts 3
UNIVERSITAS NOVA CRO567 of Ivan Kljakovic Gaspic 3-6-3-2-(14)-13 27 pts 4
MELGINA ITA693 of Paolo Brescia 7-1-(31 UFD)-3-5-12 28 pts 5
TAKI 4 ITA778 of Niccolo Bertola 8-7-5-4-9-(11 SCP) 33 pts
The first event of the 2022 Melges 24 European Sailing Series will end tomorrow with the last three races: the first start is set for early 10am forecast the weather conditions differ not much from the ones of today
Day Two results Notice Board Photos of the event – © IM24CA / Zerogradinord
2022 Melges 24 European Sailing Series is scheduled with 6 events:
More information about the event and series available at melges24.com/europeansailingseries
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bays and the ancient town of Rovinj combine to offer a perfect late summer holiday
is by boat: the church looms into sight and the cobbled town falls away steeply below
the streets too narrow and stones too polished
so we catch a golf buggy from the port up through the ice-cream shops and then up again
where cats sprawl like shadows in the sunlight
we choose which islands to visit that afternoon
stacked with people better prepared than us with our bottle of water and lone film of sunblock
One day we choose Veliki Brijun with its Roman remains
modest safari park and newly hatched elephant
The next day we disembark at the Red Island
where a yellow bouncy castle floats in the sea and families mark out their territory with towels
regular shrieks from the water alert us to another foot sliced on a sharp rock as it fights back against the tourists
We return to our B&B bleeding but delighted
Could this be the perfect holiday destination
View image in fullscreenStage for jazz concerts: the Roman amphitheatre in Pula
Photograph: Gonzalo Azumendi/Getty ImagesIstria is a heart-shaped peninsula in the north-west of Croatia
where the hills are dense with truffles and the coast appears to glitter
This is the millennial’s Tuscany – the food is influenced by nearby Venice (Italy controlled the area until 1947)
the verdant olive groves inland produce award-winning oils
the sea is Instagram blue and surrounds cobbled fishing villages
But with significantly lower prices it attracts a far younger tourist than the Italian destination it’s so often compared to
And with cheap flights to Pula from the UK only recently introduced
The sea is Instagram blue and surrounds cobbled fishing villagesPart of Istria’s glorious charm is its ability to offer two
Pula is a gritty port town clustered around a Roman amphitheatre built in the 1st century
the arena now stages less-bloody entertainment in the form of jazz concerts and film festivals
The underground chambers – once used to house wild animals and dead gladiators – now host objects more fitting to modern tourism: equipment used in the production of olive oil
Ever since the Romans replaced Istria’s cypress trees with olive groves, the area has been famous for its food – oils, salami, cheeses and truffles. We get up early to drive to Buzet, where the son and daughter of Prodan Tartufi
where a combination of oak and hazelnut trees and damp river soil makes it one of the richest grounds in the world for premium white truffles
only locals knew – their truffles had been exported
In recent years a steady flow of truffle hunting tourists has arrived
It takes less than a minute before one of the dogs is scratching at the roots of an oak tree
We kneel by the tree and dig a little deeper
but we’re too late – the truffle he’s found is rotten
tempering our excitement with every dog bark
View image in fullscreenWoodland treasure: truffle hunting
Photograph: PRIn the cool of the patio we are rewarded anyway – a three-course lunch
weighed down with truffles they’d found earlier
Tasting of dark and mealy savouriness that’s more smell than flavour
In restaurants a plate of truffle-laden pasta is one of the cheapest things on the menu
And it’s never just a taste – the waiter starts shaving it on
and continues and continues until the pasta has disappeared altogether
where the stone town glows pinkly as the sun sets
That night we eat fresh fish on the edge of a cliff
watching old men dive into the water below
The second half of the week is spent around the bay
in a stretch of land developed by the Maistra group
where their luxury hotels provide much of the industry for the region
From the pool of the newly opened Grand Park Hotel
the town of Rovinj appears across the sea framed in twinkling lights
Through one of the hotel’s vast theatrical windows we watch the yacht owners’ dawn champagne parties; through the other
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for the legendary drum ‘n’ bass festival Outlook
the festival is no longer held in the fort just outside of Pula
the city’s Roman amphitheatre still hosts unbelievably scenic concerts
Andrea Bocelli and Dua Lipa all on the upcoming bill.
there actually is something for everyone.
RECOMMENDED: Time Out Croatia's essential guide to Istria
Oysters pulled straight from the Limski kanal
Fresh black truffles from the Motovun forest
These are just some of the culinary goodies you’ll be able to gorge on in Istria
My four days on the peninsula are punctuated by meaty anchovies, salty oysters, fluffy focaccia, punchy olive oil, and sweet, thick prawns. You can get fresh shellfish for reasonable prices at Tony’s Oyster Shack, but Istria’s share of fine dining restaurants are not to be missed. Dinner at Puntulina
a Michelin guide Rovinj restaurant where you’re so close to the sea your table is practically in the water
started with a ‘taste of the Adriatic’ – a platter of fish so fresh it could have got up and jumped back into the water
an intriguing-sounding sea salt lager turned out to be a real winner.
Sitting inside Laurel&Berry is like being inside a huge ship
in a rich tomato sauce atop of ribbons of pappardelle
Then you’ve got the Michelin-starred Zigante
which is responsible for finding the world’s biggest truffle and has the Guinness World Record plaque hanging on the restaurant wall
you can see a replica of the hefty fungus proudly displayed in the dining room
buttery truffle pasta was followed by succulent trout with white asparagus.
But the highlight for me is dinner at Stara Škola
A zero-waste restaurant that serves food family-style
there are no tiny amuse bouches or perfectly shaped pastries here – the food is hearty
A crumbly pie crust over a rich wild boar filling makes me emotional
This is offset by a tangy and rough green salad
In the Kotija forest you can cycle and hike
and people looking to get even closer to nature can take part in biology walks and forest bathing; sensory experiences where you meditate beneath the trees.
The Motovun forest is one the world’s most prestigious truffle-hunting destinations
where intrepids can have a whack at digging up some of their own fungi on a tour with some of the planet’s best hunters
truffle hunting is a lifestyle that spans generations – at Karlíc Tartufi
I learn that inhabitants of the area are outnumbered by hunting dogs by more than double
Competition between rival hunters means they never reveal their territories.
One of the most striking things about Istria is its refusal to adhere to any kind of architectural uniform
Roman and Venetian architecture all merge in the towns of Rovinj and Pula.
a lone Gothic arched window sits in an apartment block – a remnant from the Venetian empire
All its counterparts are the regular rectangular shuttered openings you’d expect to see in a Mediterranean town
but keep your eyes peeled and you’re likely to spot more architectural quirks that nod to Istria’s unique past.
Istria was overseen by the Habsburgs before being subsumed into Italy from the end of World War I to the end of World War II. Now
the lion’s share of the peninsula is Croatian
and Istrian locals are from a mixture of Italian
making for a multicultural atmosphere in the cities.
There’s culture a-plenty: alongside the beautiful architecture, you have Pula’s atmospheric amphitheatre, a new festival held in an ancient quarry, the artist’s village of Groznjan
and a whole lot of history (including a new archaeology museum opening next year in Pula) to explore.
We pitch up at Hotel Lone
a huge modern hotel with a bit of a corporate vibe and gorgeous sea views
The hotel’s curved mezzanines channel the Guggenheim museum
There’s even a nightclub in the basement if you’re up for a party.
A more luxurious option is the pricey but beautiful Grand Park Hotel Rovinj
The infinity pool with views of Rovinj Old Town across the water is spectacular
and make sure to say hello to the in-house falcons Frida and Tom
India Lawrence travelled to Istria on a press trip with Istria Tourist Board. For information on our policies around editorial independence, reviews and recommendations, see our editorial guidelines
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