Cari English Go to Palopo, seek knowledge, seek health and hunt for culinary delights TEKS › English›Go to Palopo
seek health and hunt for culinary delights Located in the east of South Sulawesi
Palopo is not only a service and education city
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TEKS KOMPAS/RENY SRI AYU ARMANPalopo Mayor's Office
Being far from Makassar, but still able to hang out at a franchise restaurant like in other big cities, which city is that? Those who live in the Greater Luwu area definitely know the answer: Palopo City
located approximately 370 kilometers from Makassar
there are many national and even international franchise restaurants
Local cafes with various concepts and cuisine are also not few
Stalls that sell kapurung - traditional and typical food of Palopo made from sago - also do not want to lose their existence
Andarias (45) actually came to Palopo to attend a relative's wedding event
Accompanied by his wife and seven-year-old child
the three of them continued their flight to Palopo and stayed at one of the hotels
"His intention was just to come to the wedding and then go home
"It's easy to go anywhere because there is online transportation," he said
Residents fill the backyard of City Hall and exercise together
spent his childhood and adolescence in Palopo before finally migrating to Kalimantan
Having been away from Palopo for a long time
he was quite amazed to see the development of this small town
"I went around several hotels looking for rooms
but they were mostly already fully occupied
They said there are many events happening these past few days
which is why hotel rooms have been booked in advance," he said on Saturday (27/4/2024)
A hotel staff explained that there were indeed many events going on during that week
and also a motorcycle racing event held at Sirkuit Ratona Motorsport
This national-level racing event was attended by hundreds of racers
The same goes for various seminars and trainings which were also attended by tens to hundreds of participants
It's no wonder that hotels were fully booked
When going around to several hotels to look for a room
billboards with the words "welcome to training and seminar participants
as well as various events" are clearly displayed in the hotel's premises
This city is also unique because it still has forest cover
The atmosphere at one of the restaurants in Palopo City
a field is filled with white tents and a large stage
A grand event will be held by one of the banks
Indra told a story about his visit to Palopo City for work matters
The company he works for deals in stationery and office equipment
As a city that is considered fairly developed
Palopo has become a focus for business development in recent years
various service businesses are quite developed
A number of national banks have branches in this city
There are also quite a lot of hospitals and health clinics for a small city
For the office equipment and supplies-based company where Indra works
stated that there are at least 16 higher education institutions in the city
Also read: Palopo City in Numbers
"Palopo is a small but strategic and unique city
Luwu Raya has been designated as an integrated economic region
and Palopo's role is quite strategic as a hub
This city is also unique because it still has forest cover as well as agricultural and plantation land
All of this should be seen as an opportunity," he said
the presence of universities and hospitals can be encouraged to develop various business sectors
the development of these sectors could also be a solution for absorbing the workforce
Palopo is continuously being encouraged for the development of tourism and agricultural and plantation production sectors
Land management for agriculture and plantations would also be made as tourism objects
agriculture benefits from production and becomes a tourist destination," said Asrul
The development of the education and health sectors in Palopo is like a magnet that attracts the growth of many other sectors
food franchise businesses are also thriving
Also read: Growth of 270.2 Million People and Demands for Changes in Urban Design
up to Richeese Factory and various others are present in Palopo
are also not left behind in opening their branches here
Academician/researcher at Mega Buana University
including those with a Faculty of Medicine
have made Palopo a destination for studying
and East Luwu regions have easy access to Palopo," said Afrianto Nurdin
an academic and researcher at the Faculty of Economics at Mega Buana University
the growth of the education sector has stimulated the development of service and trade industries
This is in addition to the healthcare sector in Palopo
clinics and hospitals are no longer only serving the residents of Palopo
restaurants and trade businesses continue to grow
their families definitely need a hotel or boarding house
"Residents from the area around Palopo even come here just to hang out and have recreation," said Afrianto
The presence of higher education has become an option for some students who are reluctant to go to Makassar
"I chose to study in Palopo because I don't have to be far from my parents in Masamba
my family comes to visit and we also go for a walk," said Nurhikmah (20)
The atmosphere of RSUD Sawerigading in the city of Palopo
This hospital is one of seven hospitals in Palopo
With this growth and Palopo's continuous development
the challenge is migration that impacts population growth and rapid urbanization processes
some of which originate in neighboring districts such as Luwu
"Concerns such as floods have already occurred
followed by congestion and various other issues
urban planning should be reassessed," said Afrianto
stated that the threat of various environmental and social issues as a result of urban growth must be considered for the future
Also read: Homecoming and Urbanization
One of the corner city parks in Palopo City
The development of residential areas must be concentrated in certain areas
Agriculture and plantations should also not be abandoned
"This is so that the uniqueness of Palopo is maintained and that in the future urban problems
It is hoped that the potential and charm of Palopo
PALOPO – Eka Trisusanti Toding (30) pelaku penistaan agama meminta maaf kepada ummat muslim
Kota Palopo itu menyesal telah memposting status yang bernada melecehkan tersebut
permintaan maaf Eka tidak mengehentikan proses hukum yang telah berjalan
“Proses hukum tetap akan berjalan sebagaimana mestinya,” tegas Kasat Reskrim Polres Palopo
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has debuted at the award winning Casa Palopó in Guatemala
With front row views overlooking the iconic Lake Atitlán
this is the Relais & Chateaux hotel’s second onsite restaurant
enhancing the overall gastronomic experience
Executive Chef Jorge Peralta is at the helm of the bespoke dining venue open to hotel guests and the public
seating 32 people in the main dining room and offering a private table for 7 and terrace space for 12
Chef Peralta and his talented team conceptualized the menus to highlight local ingredients and combine the primal appeal of open-fire cooking with the luxury components of a fine dining establishment
and the elements,” says Chef Peralta
we are able to achieve something that feels traditional
Guatemala has emerged as a culinary hotspot and I’m hopeful that Kinnik will play a vital role in bringing Lake Atitlán to the world stage when it comes to cuisine.” The name Kinnik
pays homage to Guatemalan culture and style of open fire cooking
Centered on cooking premier cuts of meat over open flames
Kinnik provides an interactive lakeside experience for guests
offering tableside carving as well as small table grills available for those who want to immerse themselves in the process and preparation of their meal
a mix of guatemalan chorizo and longaniza accompanied by melted cheese
guacamole and tortillas – a local favorite
Entrées consist of grilled meats like tenderloin
skirt steak and ribeye with featured side dishes ranging from chargrilled vegetables to gorgonzola cream cauliflower
all served with specialty sauces like chipilin bernaise
Drink and dessert menu highlights include the tequila Cantarito and Negroni Sbagliato with sweet crepes filled with goat milk caramel and caramelized pears
the experience of Kinnik extends beyond the food
it’s a tradition,” says Claudia Bosch
Grupo Alta and owner of Casa Palopó
“Chef Peralta and his team ensure that every meal is a piece of art
impressing and inspiring visitors time and time again.”
Kinnik wows with a modern design centered on bright shades of yellow and gold
the earthy and minimalist furniture coupled with bright pops of color in the whimsical ceiling mural and checkered statement wall complement the carefully curated design of Casa Palopó
Located at Carretera a San Antonio Palopó
Kinnik is open Wednesday to Saturday for lunch and dinner from 12pm to 9pm and Sunday for brunch from 9am to 4pm where the specialty bacon pancakes are a must have
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TEMPO.CO, Jakarta - Chairperson of the General Election Commission (KPU) Mochammad Afifuddin said that verifying the authenticity of regional head candidates' diplomas during the 2024 Regional Elections (Pilkada) could take a long time
This resulted in instances where the victories or candidacies of regional head candidates were later annulled by the Constitutional Court (MK)
"We have limitations in stating whether someone's diploma is authentic or not in a very short time
we need a court decision," said Afifuddin in a meeting with the House of Representatives Commission II at the Senayan Parliament Complex on Thursday
saw regional head candidates involved in fake diploma cases
the Regional Election Commission (KPUD) in these three regions was unable to verify the diplomas' authenticity within the allotted period
"The [authentication] process was not completed at the time when they had to decide whether someone met the requirements or not
In its decision on election result disputes on Monday
the MK judges disqualified mayoral candidate Trisal Tahir in the Palopo Regional Election
The MK determined that the package C diploma used by Trisal Tahir as a nomination document was fraudulent
"Declaring the disqualification of the mayoral candidate from the candidate pair Number 4 (Trisal Tahir) from participating in the election of the Mayor and Deputy Mayor of Palopo in 2024," said Chairperson of MK Suhartoyo
A similar incident occurred with the candidate for Regent of Pesawaran Regency
who turned out to lack a valid high school diploma
Aries was considered to have failed to meet the requirements of a high school diploma or equivalent as a requirement for regent nomination
the MK ordered a re-voting process in 24 regions for various reasons
MK mandated a re-vote and disqualified the candidate for Deputy Governor of Papua
This disqualification stemmed from the MK's determination that Yermias's candidacy requirements were invalid
Likewise, in the Serang Regency Regional Election
This decision was based on evidence that Minister of Villages Yandri Susanto had conducted and participated in activities that directed village heads to support candidate pair number two
MK assigned varying deadlines for the implementation of the re-voting processes across the different regions
depending on the terrain and logistical challenges of each area
Vedro Imanuel Girsang contributed to this article
Editor’s Choice: Prabowo: Not All Parties Need to Join the Government
Click here to get the latest news updates from Tempo on Google News
The Sistine Chapel in the Vatican has been prepared to host 133 cardinal electors for the upcoming conclave to choose the 267th Pope
Anthony Albanese re-elected as Australian Prime Minister for the second time
defeating a controversial anti-Muslim candidate
The party led by Lawrence Wong scored another landslide win in the recent Singaporean elections
Singapore to hold its general election on May 3
This election marks the first for Lawrence Wong since he took office as Singapore's Prime Minister last year
The Liberal Party under the leadership of Mark Carney continues its dominance in Canada after winning the election held on Monday
Former Indonesian President Joko Widodo (Jokowi) visited the Metro Jaya Police Headquarters on Wednesday
The Constitutional Court stated that the implementation of the defamation article only applies to individuals
Mark Carney and the Liberal Party emerge victorious in Canada's national elections
© 2021 TEMPO - Hak Cipta Dilindungi Hukum
and it’s the brainchild of Guatemala City native Harris Whitbeck
a CNN correspondent who’s been visiting the bucolic haven—one of almost a dozen around the lake
each with its own distinct identity—since he was a child
Several years ago in Rio de Janeiro
Whitbeck became aware of the Favela Painting Foundation
that turned the slums into a Technicolor art installation
a cameraman planted the seed “that we could do something similar in Santa Catarina as a way of sparking sustainable job and development opportunities in an area that is in dire need of alternatives to farming.” A hike with his nieces Melissa and Nicole Whitbeck further solidified the vision; Melissa came on board to help coordinate the effort
which included an initial inspiring workshop with the Dutch artists before building a team of native-only Guatemalans to bring it to life
was critical to the project's success
There is a local architect in charge of operations
a pair of community leaders tasked with educating and exciting residents about getting involved
who led social design efforts with area leaders to ensure that his holistically conceived options for the “giant canvas” truly reflect Santa Catarina’s unique identity
The final color palette—a range of vivid blues and purples as bases; pink
and yellow pops for accents and brick red to reference ancient textiles for the roofs—and design templates were approved by community leaders
“With this selection we could integrate all generations of colors from the huipils of Santa Catarina Palopó,” says lead designer Olivero
which Olivero says symbolizes kindness and light; geometric patterns reference waves
Most are painted using stencils to ensure consistency
visual contamination) are being replaced with hand-painted ones
Community involvement is the crux of the entire project
Promoters visit homes one by one to show them options from which the family can mix and match
and the boy wants blue—it’s opened a dialogue among families that’s never existed here
When you involve people they start feeling dignified
and it opens the door to new opportunities and new ideas.”
One new idea revolved around the paint being used
which Guatemalan architect Alfredo Maul of nonprofit G-22 devised using a sustainable
environmentally friendly approach (it’s being produced by a local paint company)
“In applied architectural research it is necessary to fail a few times to get the best results that will prevail,” he says of the challenge to obtain their final formula: a water-based paint with mineral pigments and hydrated lime mixed on-site
is already attracting interior designers who want to purchase it.)
“painting the houses is just one very small component of the project—by changing the town’s facades and beautifying it
we are creating an environment that will hopefully spark a stronger sense of identity
which in turn can lead to grassroots community development initiatives,” says Whitbeck
Already they’re noting an increase in visitors to the town
which is responding with new artisan shops and small businesses (like Cafe Tuk in the center of town)
“We are simply creating a colorful umbrella under which the town itself can grow new initiatives to improve its prospects.”
The desire is not just for it to be a tourist photo op, but for Santa Catarina to become a cultural destination, says Whitbeck, where art and the expression of culture are seen as "important tools in the development of a sustainable community.”
The best thing about this splash of color slowly spreading over the town, besides the benefits to the residents of Santa Catarina, says Melissa, is that “this can be replicated in any other community around the world.” Of course in another place they’d have to create their own designs. After all, “this all comes from local textiles—we could not go across the lake and paint the same thing.”
The award-winning Casa Palopó welcomes local celebrity chef Eduardo Gonzalez to lead culinary operations at the luxury boutique hotel
Chef Gonzalez will oversee new menu development and food and beverage programming to enhance the overall gastronomic experience at Guatemala's first and only Relais & Chateaux property
Chef Gonzalez is locally renowned for his role in the television program "Flavors of my Land," in which he and his co-host focused on ingredients native to Guatemala
He is currently the host of "A Menu for All," a daily cooking program that features simple recipes and techniques for the at-home cook
Chef Gonzalez spent his childhood lending a hand at his father's fincas
intrigued by the process of crop production
Chef Gonzalez's 23 years of experience include restaurant openings
internships at Michelin-star restaurants and culinary school instructor
always leading with his passion for locally grown ingredients and traditional recipes
where newly launched menus feature dishes such as Pepían
a spicy stew that's recognized as the national dish
roasted coriander seed and cilantro sauce served with sautéed spinach and sweet potato puree
among other dishes to satisfy every palate
The new menus also zero in on local herbs and ingredients like vanilla and cacao native to Guatemala
Chef Gonzalez arrives at Casa Palopó on the heels of a highly anticipated property expansion
the hotel debuted six brand new rooms and suites inspired by local artisan s
The new food and beverage menus and culinary programming will continue to elevate the guest experience at Casa Palopó
while raising curiosity toward Guatemala's emerging food culture
where they say they received more than they gave
virtually all of whom live a simple and meagre life
the residents live joyful lives – focused on their family
their life is more human than that of many people here in the States
After spending the first night at a student residence in Guatemala City
Since this annual service project has been going on for two decades
the children by now know that “los americanos” will be arriving around this time of year and look forward to our return
which meant they were all the more excited this time around
they trickled into the parish hall to meet us
We were shown around the Church property by Lucas
who has lived in Santa Caterina Palopo all his life and who would be our chief guide throughout our work project
Our plan involved painting the walls and ceiling
giving a deep cleaning and new paint job to the parish sacristy
and finally refurbishing the priest’s residence
since the town has not had a priest in residence for many years
The hope is that these renovations will help put the church in a condition to receive a permanent pastor
Lucas’ excitement was evident in his eagerness to help us
Our work involved fixing water closets in disrepair
ridding crooks and crannies of thick spider webs
Many of the jobs were unpleasant humanly speaking
but at the same time it was joyful and fun – that ever present Christian paradox found in serving others
Our days in Santa Caterina Palopo took on the rhythm of the renovation projects in the mornings and assisting the children of Santa Caterina in the afternoons
We provided simple classes and then played even simpler games
with a visit to the Blessed Sacrament at the parish in between
which made teaching English and catechism classes a challenge
Leveraging the Spanish speakers among us and speaking the universal language of smiles and laughter
We entered the children’s world and became their older siblings or uncles for the week
They gave one of us the nickname “Tio Billy,” which we even adopted ourselves
The children would grab hold of Tio Billy and try to bring him down
When he later fell sick one day with a small illness
we were pretty sure he had contracted from the little ones
When he recovered and we teased him a bit about it
he said if he got it from the children then it was well worth it
One of the most memorable parts of the trip was being able to attend Mass along with the other townspeople
concelebrated with the priest who makes regular trips to the town
and who speaks the native language Kaqchikel
The Mass was partly in Spanish and partly in Kaqchikel
so that most of us were completely lost as to what was being said
But we were able to follow the parts of the Mass
Many of children we had come to know were there with their families and were happy to see us
we went to visit the homes of families in Santa Caterina Palopo
I don’t want to give the impression that the people of Santa Caterina Palopo live in some sort of pre-technological paradise
untouched by the troubles of the developed world
and hard to imagine unless you have seen it for yourself
Most of the houses were built with cinder blocks and plastic tarps for roofs
Talking with the boys during and after the trip
it was evident how big of an impact these home visits had on them
When I asked one of the fellows what he hoped to take away from the trip
he said he wanted to learn to be more thankful for what he had
because he had never realized how much he had until he saw families with so little
It was a sentiment which I am sure all of us were feeling afterwards
from our foreman Lucas to the laughing children
Lucas gave us some gifts and parting words
It was humbling to see how much he appreciated our service
And it was a joyful moment to reflect on how we were serving real
many of whom we had come to know quite well over the past week
Our final activity was a hike up the nearby Pacaya volcano
and we used the heat to roast some delicious marshmallows
The final talk of the trip took place on top of Pacaya
The person giving it called to mind all the people we had met
He pointed to the hidden lava flowing inside Pacaya
and said that this is how our own lives should be – having a strong manly fire within
which gives off the warmth of generous service to those around us
Printed | document generated automatically from https://opusdei.org/en/article/los-amerricanos-have-arrived/ (05/03/2025)
the world is my office and this was definitely one of the better days
Upon arrival at the airport in Guatemala City
I was whisked off to lunch at the colorful La Esquina
a combination bistro and marketplace in the city's vibrant Zone 4 neighborhood
La Esquina has been described by one patron as "coolly chaotic." This unique spot is a homage to the distinctive cuisine of Guatemala and to the country's rich folk art tradition
I hopped aboard a helicopter for the 25-minute flight to my destination — Casa Palopo
a Relais & Chateaux property situated on the shore of Lake Atitlan
Skimming over the lush green canopy of the jungle below
I was reminded of a jigsaw puzzle — that splash of yellow in the right corner was soon recognizable as a clump of jacaranda trees bursting with blossoms; on the left
that blob of silvery blue morphed into a graceful waterfall spilling its way down a mountain ravine
the three 10,000-foot volcanic peaks rising out of 1,000-foot deep Lake Atitlan
described by English novelist Aldous Huxley as "the most beautiful lake in the world."
The dormant volcanoes are frequently obscured by a halo of low hanging clouds
the view is one that even a postcard or a painting could never duplicate
By the time we landed on the property's windswept helipad at the lake's edge
comfortably relaxing on my suite's balcony and enjoying the 10-minute foot massage offered to every guest upon arrival
as I sipped a cocktail at the Villa Palopo's infinity pool and watched the sunset paint stripes of tangerine
The nine-room Casa Palopo (seven in the main building and two in the hilltop villa)
ensconced in a secluded spot above the lake
who has devoted seven years to turning what was first a private residence and then a boutique hotel into a world-class property
she checked into the boutique hotel in 2010 as a guest and left as its new owner
From the rooms with their intense mix of colors (mine was deep sapphire) and fabrics
local textiles and art to the central terrace which serves as a gathering spot for pre- and post-dinner drinks
Casa Palopo feels more like a beautifully appointed home than a hotel
Guests have access to the lake by way of steeply carved stairs
and the staff can arrange a kayak for paddling or boat tours to any of the 12 Mayan towns surrounding the lake
and a living room where the decor features an original Botero painting
One of the most unusual activities Casa Palopo offers is the Mayan Shaman Ceremony
takes guests on a journey of Mayan spiritual rituals
The outdoor ceremony centers on the four points of the Mayan cross
water and air — with guests offering chants and prayers for each
it seems one can't entirely disconnect from the present
Tomas interrupted the ceremony to answer a call on his cell phone
and at 6.8 Palopo (with indoor and outdoor tables)
Chef Mario Miralles is a passionate proponent of locally grown and sourced products and a devotee of his country's proud culinary heritage
Dinner one evening featured a Guatemalan salad composed of lettuce
black beans and cilantro dressing; Pepian steak with corn risotto and local vegetables and de leche ice cream coated with caramelized popcorn powder
it was huevos rancheros accompanied by black beans
and the luscious avocados that I couldn't get enough of
Ditto the Guatemalan coffee which managed to be both robust and smooth
Casa Palopo guests should opt to take a boat ride to explore a few of the 12 Mayan towns that surround the lake
Each town specializes in a different activity — pottery making
yoga — that can translate into a tourism boon
the largest and most commercial of the lake towns
and found the best way to navigate its winding
I watched an exhibition of weaving and later stopped for lunch at El Artisano
Lunch was in a tropical courtyard reminiscent of New Orleans' French Quarter; the menu was a smorgasbord of Guatemalan specialties
and background music came in the form of Verdi's opera "Otello."
The next day's excursion was to the opposite side of the lake to visit the town of Santa Catarina Palopo
Similar to one begun in Rio de Janeiro's favelas (slums)
the project is designed to provide both jobs and civic pride for this town of 4,000 people
Community leaders are working with Guatemalan designers to turn some 800 public buildings and private houses into a massive art project through vivid painting and murals
The really fun part is to watch the town's citizens — ranging in age from nine to 90
A bit further afield but definitely worth a visit are two of Guatemala's most fascinating destinations — Antigua and Chichicastenango
was the first capital city in Central America
and is a treasure trove of history and culture
whose cobblestoned streets are filled with churches
and other examples of colonial architecture
is known for its huge Indian market held every Thursday and Sunday
Beginning in the village plaza and wending its way up to the steps of the church
it offers everything from fruits and vegetables at the food stalls to colorful displays of native crafts that will have you on sensory overload
A word of warning: take a jacket — even in summer it can be cool here as ChiChi is at an elevation of 6,500 feet
shed the jacket; put on the swimsuit and take a dip in the hotel pool
The word Atitlan comes from a Mayan word meaning "the place where the rainbow gets its colors."
You may or may not see a rainbow during your visit
but you will definitely feel you have discovered your pot of gold
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The presence of Chemainus Rotary Club members in Guatemala is a tremendous gift for the people of San Antonio Palopo
Rotarians are currently in the Central American community again on a humanitarian trip to offer a variety of aid to residents there
other than an interruption in 2021 due to COVID
Even when Rotarians couldn’t travel to the region
they still managed to provide some valuable assistance from afar
Related story: Rotarians’ relationship with Guatemalan town continues from afar
A chicken project was undertaken when Rotarians weren’t there
with funds sent to each participating family for an agricultural course
regular visits and a community-built chicken cage
That not only gave them much-needed protein
but business potential and employment for locals
People in San Antonio Palopo live with very few amenities
but Rotary’s volunteer work and donated supplies gives them important necessities they couldn’t otherwise afford
Related story: Chemainus Rotarians providing donations, doing volunteer work in Guatemala
Tom Andrews has been on every trip from the beginning
other than in 2015 when a broken ankle kept him at home
He left last Wednesday on his eighth excursion there
David Sheppard and Jacqueline Mealing-Sheppard
They flew to Guatemala City and then took a van to San Antonio Palopo
“I love that place,” said Andrews in advance of the trip
with quite a few Mayan communities around the lake.”
Sheppard and Mealing-Sheppard are staying five weeks and Dares will be there for about 2 1/2 weeks
Sheppard and Mealing-Sheppard have also made multiple visits to San Antonio Palopo and this will be the second trip for Dares
“It was fantastic going down there and you leave knowing you’ve done something good,” he said
“It makes you appreciate what we have around here,” added Andrews
you give them a soccer ball and they’re happy for the day.”
The Rotarians have set several goals to be accomplished on this trip
“Dan and I are going to be building a house with a local contractor,” said Andrews
framing with wood siding and a corrugated roof
They help with moving material to the site
sand and other elements is actually quite labour intensive based on the terrain
The second aspect of the visit is to supply funds for a nutrition program
lncaparina is a mixture of vegetable sources supplying an amino-acid balance comparable to contents of foods of animal origin
“It’s a full nutrition package that helps with their development and growth,” Andrews pointed out
The Rotarians are supplying funds to keep 50 kids stocked with Incaparina for an entire year
School supplies are also being made available to 75-100 children
pencils and erasers – “all the kids need to take to attend school,” said Andrews
numerous pairs of shoes were collected as part of a school project last spring at Queen Margaret’s School in Duncan – where Andrews’ wife Heather teaches – and the Rotarians took down two full suitcases
As a Service Club initiative to help improve the lives of others
spearheaded the ‘Good for the Sole Project,’ collecting gently used shoes from students in the Primary and Junior divisions
The shoes were then presented to Tom Andrews to take to Guatemala
“Shoes are expensive down there and they don’t last very long,” said Tom Andrews
but are doing an Airbnb house rental this time for their accommodation
“We’ve got a place where we can cook our own meals,” Andrews noted
“It’s very central between the hotel we used to stay at and the hardware store.”
inflation means those trips to the hardware store are a lot more costly for the required construction materials so their dollar doesn’t go as far as it used to
The Chemainus Rotary team has also helped with providing beds and stoves
computers and other projects over the years and intends to continue that relationship with the community
The Ladysmith Rotary Club has been stationed across Lake Atitlan in recent years for its own projects at San Lucas Toliman
Update from Tom Andrews Monday: “Today we visited the construction site for the new home
met the family and will be ordering the material tomorrow and arranging to have it moved manually a kilometre up to the top of the town from the building supply store.”
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Santa Catarina Palopó sits on the northeastern shores of Lake Atitlán
In 1934, Aldous Huxley compared Guatemala’s Lake Atitlán to Lake Como. Como “touches the limit of the permissibly picturesque,” the Brave New World writer said
but Atitlán “is Como with the additional embellishment of several immense volcanoes
Nearly 90 years later, and the renowned lake continues to draw visitors for its excessively beautiful setting, serene atmosphere, and the dozen Mayan villages that dot its shore. Santa Catarina Palopó is among the best known
a settlement of some 6,000 inhabitants that’s grown over the years as more people from the Guatemalan highlands (most of whom identify as Mayan Kaqchikel) moved in and tourism supplanted traditional occupations such as agriculture and fishing
The town has benefitted from outside attention in many ways. Perhaps the most striking example is the Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó project
a yearslong painting endeavor started by Guatemalan journalist Harris Whitbeck in 2017 that’s seen more than 500 local houses painted vibrant hues representing Mayan culture
with the involvement of 300 volunteers and over 3,000 locals
and peacocks are represented in the buildings’ symbols
The result is a technicolor wonder. But the nascent economy here is still underdeveloped
and many live in poverty—and of course COVID dealt a devastating blow to progress
who checked in as a guest in 2010 and ended up running the place
The hotel is very much a part of the community—16 of its 28 staff members live in Santa Catarina Palopó and others are from neighboring San Antonio—and it’s been heavily involved with the painting project
donating fabric for mask production and helping with the distribution of more than 800 food and hygiene kits
the Guatemalan government imposed a strict lockdown banning travel between different departments (or counties) in the country without a permit for work or humanitarian reasons
she returned to check on the staff and plan for a reopening
Casa Palopó has several suites overlooking the lake
Her helicopter’s arrival was not well received by the locals
as it implied the hotel was open again to foreigners who could bring the virus to the previously untouched community
Their fears were justified; Santa Catarina Palopó had been closed to outsiders for months and had reported no cases at all
the dearth of tourism income was becoming a problem and a safe reopening needed to be considered
Bosch had a “candid conversation” with the town’s mayor and indigenous leaders
as was the need for the hotel’s staff to get back to work
Staff salaries had been sustained through August
but the community needed money for food and medicine
Guatemala City’s La Aurora International Airport finally reopened on September 18
travelers needed a negative COVID-19 PCR test taken within 72 hours of the trip or commit to a 14-day quarantine
Casa Palopó implemented widespread health protocols
setting up antibacterial gel and handwashing stations at the town’s main entry points
guests’ temperatures were checked before they left for the town
The most ingenious idea for rebooting the local economy
was a new travel voucher system implemented with the aim of diverting tourist money to the community’s pockets in a way that felt empowering for the locals
It gave guests 10 percent of their nightly rate
in credits for locally produced items like coffee
with unused credits donated to the painting project
To avoid travelers potentially bringing COVID into the community
buying from our local shops and artisans is the most impactful way to help our community in its recovery,” says Lidia Florentino Cumes
a local woman and one of the leaders of the Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó project
“Our local shops and businesses have started to reopen
because we understand that with tourists come economic opportunities for our community
director of global impact at Tourism Cares
“Hotels and tourism businesses that are looking to creatively
and responsibly support the communities they operate in during the pandemic is essential and inspiring,” she says
“Local spending through tourism is one of the greatest tools to redistribute wealth in our industry
and by actively finding solutions to diversify markets for local communities
businesses can help make communities more resilient.”
hoping that businesses rethink their relationship with their communities as travel resumes
can take a look at their entire supply chain—are there products and services that are being purchased that can be swapped for something made locally?” she asks
“Can more food and beverage used on site be purchased from local farms and markets to strengthen local supply chains and small shareholder farmers
Tourism has the ability to be a force multiplier and support communities in these very precarious times.”
With borders reopened and COVID eventually receding
“Now that tourism in Guatemala has reopened
we are hopeful to pick up where we left off and continue the transformation of our town,” she says
There are plans to replicate the painting project in the other towns around the lake
the community credit project will knit visitors and locals together beyond the initial transaction
“This is one more opportunity for us to shine as a community,” says Cumes
“What happened is an act of nature and we can only control our response to the situation
Keeping hope alive and a friendly disposition towards returning tourists is as important as maintaining all safety protocols to keep each other well and healthy
Stay: Casa Palopó has 15 rooms and suites
3 of which are in a separate wing and can be booked as a private casita sleeping six
with a private living and dining area (from $738 a night plus taxes and fees)
and infinity pool—can be reserved for $5,555 per night
Donate to the Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó project
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She’s seen firsthand how women have become more active in the community in recent years leading more people to see what women are capable of achieving
“The thing is that we sometimes say that only men can do something
Lidia Florentino Cumes Cumez greets visitors to her small, bright office with a giggle before grabbing a brochure and launching into a well-honed explanation of what it means to paint this entire town on the banks of Guatemala’s majestic Lake Atitlán.
“These are the base colors,” she said recently
displaying a palette with names like “water,” “mud” and “green stone.” Butterflies
to show where the inspiration for the designs comes from
Cumes is one of several women helping helm a project to paint the 800 homes of Santa Catarina Palopó using colors and designs that imitate weavings made by indigenous women
Nearly 50 homes have been painted thus far
and 150 are on a waitlist for the next round
The group plans to complete the project by the end of 2019
The goal is to strengthen community cohesion to tackle problems like a lack of sanitation and draw more visitors to the town
But the connection to weaving gives it special resonance among women in the community — and by taking leadership of the initiative
they are also gaining the ability to challenge traditional gender roles
It’s not just having something pretty or nice or clean
the promotions coordinator for the project
single at 29 and having gone to technical school for career administration
is already bucking social norms in Guatemala
who came up with the idea after seeing how paint had partially transformed some favelas in Brazil
says women were instrumental in providing input as the project developed
approving the colors and designs that would be used so that their customs and traditions would best be represented
the workshops were dominated by women,” said Harris Whitbeck
who has been coming to Santa Catarina Palopó since he was a child
“It’s the women here who do the weaving and who bring home a lot of the resources
They’re also responsible for the integrity of the home,” including its health and upkeep
they play a very important leadership role anyway.”
promoters like Cumes welcome visitors to their office off the town square
they pick up tiny wooden cases with blocks of vibrant paint samples and information pamphlets and drop into homes
hoping to catch families together so everyone can participate — from picking the colors to preparing the house for painting
The promoters offer suggestions on designs or color combinations
They also collect information about participants’ living conditions
asking about the health of the family and whether they have potable water and electricity
there is a need to work on other aspects of the home
like setting up eco-stoves to replace woodburning ones that create heavy smoke or helping with sanitation
That women have taken a lead in the project speaks to the growing role they’re playing in the community
“We are moving ahead … we don’t stay behind everything
and others are seeing that and getting involved
the women donned helmets and climbed ladders to paint a section of wall near the school
drawing attention from residents who weren’t used to seeing women do such work
Many saw that they could do it and were impressed
“We’d have to tell them what and how to paint
and we’d even give details on how to use the drill to mix paint,” said Cumes
referring to the training the women received from the project’s architects
but now if I am told to mix paint with the drill
“There is criticism sometimes,” Cumes added
but “perhaps it is a change that also needs to happen.”
but Cumes says she has seen women feel a sense of pride in taking on things that were once considered exclusive to men
Some of the younger girls in the village are unfazed
“Men and women can do the same work,” 14-year-old Daily Paola López said the day her house was being painted by a mix of men and women
Cumes sees getting women involved as a way to support the textile trade and for the community to work together to address problems
She is also hoping the project will raise awareness about the need for environmental conservation
Regular visitors say the town already feels cleaner and tidier
sees the project’s ability to empower women economically
Providing new opportunities for the women is the job of Silvia Moreira
a member of Pintando’s board and director of an initiative through the Ministry of Economics called Tejiendo Alimentos
The program provides local artisans around Guatemala with high-quality materials and training on design and innovation so they can create higher-end products for markets in and out of Guatemala
While the program doesn’t specifically focus on women
women are typically the weavers and giving them new skills has an impact
“When we start weaving with them and they are able to gain an income for what they’ve doing traditionally
that really changes their role in the family,” said Moreira
The project will be showcased in September at the London Design Biennale and around 150 weavers in Santa Catarina Palopó are now working with Diego Olivero
to create the textile installation and beaded replicas of the houses
who worked with the women to devise the color and design options for the project
says it’s hard to change the culture of machismo that is embedded in Guatemala
But he’s seen how proud the women are of the project and who they are and their culture
the more voice she has in society,” he said
Harris Whitbeck’s niece who is helping direct the project
hopes it can be replicated in other parts of the country
“It’s really much more than just painting,” said Melissa Whitbeck
Sara Schonhardt’s reporting in Guatemala was supported by the International Reporting Project.
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Guatemala is quickly becoming a popular Central American destination
Having traveled to the country several times
I realize that on previous trips I have never experienced anything like Casa Palopó
a hidden getaway situated some 90 miles from Guatemala City that overlooks scenic Lake Atitlán
Atitlán is a Mayan word meaning “the place where a rainbow gets its colors,” and the lake is celebrated as one of the most beautiful bodies of water in the world
Casa Palopó was recently honored by Condé Nast Traveler as the No
1 reader’s choice resort in the Caribbean and Central America — and rightly so
as Casa Palopó is more of a boutique hotel — or better yet
private enclave with just nine unique suites
the property is decorated with Guatemalan artifacts
brightly colored textiles and heavy hardwood furniture
with a policy of no guests under the age of 15
The TV-free accommodations are well-appointed
A separate villa up a steep slope comprises two bedrooms
The other seven suites in the main lodge are built around a stylish lounge that feels like an oversize living room and features striking artwork
The property offers recreational activities including guided mountain climbing
and access to a lakeside dock for swimming and kayaking
It is also home to two helipads should guests prefer to arrive via helicopter
The can’t-miss excursion is chartering a boat to visit some of the colonial villages where life has changed little over the centuries
A day trip costs only $120 for a 27-foot boat complete with captain and deck hand
A good place to start is San Juan la Laguna
where you can visit the workshops of local painters as well as a cooperative where women in traditional Mayan garb work on backstrap looms making some of Guatemala’s finest textiles
Fine dining is the name of the game at 6.8 Palopó
intimate restaurant with a relaxed dining room
hanging iron candelabras and a collection of candles cast a soft light across the eatery and the cozy bar
incredible electrical storms light up the night sky and the clouds let loose massive downpours over the lake
Read this article as it appears in the magazine.
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The skies are on the brink of major change
aircraft flying through the national airspace is likely to multiply many times over in coming years
with the expected introduction of delivery drones
“Humans can’t deal with monitoring and managing so many vehicles at a time,” says NASA’s Kee Palopo
Automation is necessary in areas that could support decision making—for example
Researchers and developers working on new aviation technologies need to understand how thousands of new aircraft will interact with each other and the thousands of flights already in the skies
a team at NASA’s Silicon Valley-based Ames Research Center
is building the Air Traffic Management-eXploration (ATM-X) Test Bed
an environment that hosts simulations of air traffic based on real Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) and other data
The idea is for other technology developers to conduct their own simulations using the test bed’s air traffic management simulation environment and framework
With the goal of accelerating technology development
ATM-X will enable the aviation community—including government
and international researchers—to test their technologies without having to create a complete test platform that simulates the country’s complicated air traffic control system
and the Space Agency expects to begin transitioning the platform to general users after September 2020
“As the airspace management system modernizes,” Palopo says
“it is expected to accommodate new operations
like supersonic flights—which are coming back—air taxis
The test bed is also able to evaluate this range of technologies.”
Palopo and his Ames colleagues realized that airspace simulations used in technology development were often slowed down by a lack of both quick access to operational data and the tools to build
simulations were labor intensive to create
“Using realistic data and air-traffic-management systems make the simulation more convincing,” Palopo says
“The datasets and systems in the test bed let technology developers confirm whether their concept makes sense or not—whether it can work in reality.” Also
ATM-X simulates flight scenarios under various weather and traffic conditions before additional investments are made to mature the technology
One aspect of national airspace system modernization efforts is training
which is “a really big deal,” according to Chris Brinton
Virginia-based company that works on airspace technologies
especially as aviation technology becomes more and more complicated and as managers become overseers of the whole system rather than making every single individual decision down to the flight level.”
Mosaic won Phase I and Phase II NASA Small Business Innovation Research (SBIR) contracts to develop a simulation platform to work within the ATM-X Test Bed to train air traffic managers
Based at air traffic control facilities around the country
making sure the controllers don’t get overloaded and that there aren’t too many airplanes in the same place at the same time
The job involves a good deal of human interaction with other managers at air traffic control facilities across the country and with the Air Traffic Control System Command Center
which oversees the national airspace from Warrenton
called COMETTS for Comprehensive Environment for Traffic Management Training by Simulation
aims to train the managers in all aspects of the job
“We’ve emulated many of the systems that traffic managers have to use,” Brinton says
“But then we also created a simulation not just of the flights and the flight routes that they follow but also of the people in the air traffic control system
like other traffic managers in different facilities.”
One problem Brinton says FAA experts flagged is that
air traffic managers are often trained in winter months and get no exposure to summer weather flight scenarios
COMETTS can simulate conditions under any weather or traffic conditions
giving managers experience with the types of situations they’ll actually face on the job
Mosaic developed specific training scenarios and tested them with recently retired FAA air traffic managers
Brinton has given COMETTS demonstrations to a number of FAA organizations and high-ranking officials
with the expectation the FAA will invest in it to train U.S
the platform was designed with the FAA in mind
Brinton says future markets for the platform could include international air traffic control organizations
and COMETTS could be adapted for other fields that involve complex operations requiring communication among many different people
These situations might include nuclear power plant management
who worked with Brinton and the Mosaic team on the SBIR project
notes that some of the technology they developed will also help other users of the ATM-X Test Bed
there were many components that needed to be synchronized to work correctly,” Palopo says of COMETTS
It’s part of why NASA and the ATM-X Test Bed team in particular is interested in this project.”
Another technology that Mosaic calls Check Point enables users to go back to a particular moment in a simulation to repeat or work with a variation in the scenario
It creates what Palopo describes as a snapshot of any given point in the simulation
“This capability is useful for users to create training programs of their own technologies and other non-training applications as well,” Palopo says
adding that the technology helps ATM-X Test Bed projects move beyond mere simulation into more rigorous
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ShareSaveLifestyleTravelCasa Palopó: The Luxe Lake Life In GuatemalaByJohn Oseid
As you step onto the terrace of this house-turned-small hotel
the stunning blue water will wow you for sure
But you may also spot a pair of women sitting on the floor
They show up from time to time to weave textiles for their traditional and gorgeous Mayan huipil tunic garments
Terraces with spectacular views can be found on various levels all over Casa Palopó's huge..
[+] grounds.—Courtesy Casa Palopó/Al Argueta
As the younger of the weavers shares with you
you might also hear slapping sounds that turn out to come from another young woman nearby who is molding tortillas to put on a hot griddle for your lunch
you’ll realize that you have entered the heart of Mayan culture
Just saying the mellifluous name of Palopó will start to put you in a good mood
When you look out from your room at the rustic seven-room house
or from one of two suites in the owner's house
and watch how the cloud cover hangs over the lake's trio of brooding shoreline volcanoes
the fifty-square-mile lake is devoid not only of sailboats
but also water skiers and jetboats whose noise would mar the tranquility
and there's a 13-year age minimum for children.)
The private pool belongs to the upper-level Casa Palopó owner's villa with two suites.—Courtesy Casa..
This Relais & Châteaux property’s lobby—if you can call the intimate hallway entrance to the house as such—has an antique confessional booth should you need it
where an original Botero hangs on the wall
but wisely not above the working fireplace
as well as various antiques are placed throughout the spacious room
The sala in turn segues into the intimate Martini Bar where guests enjoy their drinks while sitting back in old barber chairs
and below an antique trombone that hangs from the ceiling
Bright Moroccan blue dominates a number of Casa Palopó rooms and public spaces.—Courtesy Casa Palopó
reached up and down steep wooden stairways which are decorated with masks and religious art
Many of the rooms' Moroccan blue walls get their vibrant color through a concoction of sugar
The bathrooms feature L'Occitane products
The two-suite villas that sit higher up the steep slopes have large terraces
and share a spacious lounge with a working fireplace and plenty of African art
A full-service kitchen leads out to a large pool and yet another fireplace area which provide a great view of the frequent lightening storms that break out over the lake
An original Botero has pride of place in the Casa Palopó sala
After stints in Nicaragua and the colonial town of Antigua
young chef Mario André Miralles recently returned to the casa’s restaurant 6.8 Palopó where a terrace dinner at sunset is the order of the day
The indoor space has several nook areas for private dining as well
Chef prepares four-course dinners which might include unusual treats such as red bell pepper soup with goat cheese
along with French press coffee in this rich coffee land
The casa lies just outside of the village of Santa Catarina Palopó, which has just launched the Pintando Santa Catarina project
Modeled on a successful project called Favela Painting that was begun in Rio a few years by a duo of Dutch artists
the town’s houses will be painted in all sorts of festive colors
The Maya people of Atitlán belong to three distinct language groups that are centered on different sides of the lake
Day trips take guests to any of a dozen villages
and massage centers to Santiago and San Juan that are filled with high-quality arts and crafts
Ambitious guests can climb the steep volcano behind San Pedro
allowing for a good four hours to reach the summit and back
guests should be prepared for late afternoon waves that can reach several feet high and soak travelers in the small boats called lanchas that crisscross the lake
As the stars come out in the early evening back at the casa
a local shaman named Tomás practices Mayan spiritual rituals
and dropping prayer candles into a small fire
he summons good fortune for guests' based on their stated needs
From the lake town of Panajachel you can take a lancha to arrive at Casa Palopó
But getting there from Guatemala City can be trek with windy mountain roads that are often fogged in and heavy traffic leaving the capital
The best option and most fun by far is to book the property’s sleek six-passenger helicopter in order to scoot in less than thirty minutes over the country's patchwork of small farms and deep ravines to land on the property’s grassy helipad
which lies halfway between Guatemala City and Lake Atitlán
guests can also opt for a stay in Casa Palopó’s three-room villa there
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and a cluster of majestic volcanoes embrace an ancient volcanic caldera filled with cobalt-blue waters
waterside towns and villages sprawl along the lakeshore
or huddle in the shadow of the three towering volcanoes dominating the southern shoreline
The foothills of Atitlán Volcano and San Pedro Volcano slope down to the water’s edge while Tolimán Volcano peeks out behind Atitlán
The stunning volcano-rimmed Lago de Atitlán in the highlands of Guatemala is one of the country’s top tourist attractions
and one of the most beautiful lakes in the world
Lake Atitlán at about 5,118 feet above sea level, is the deepest lake in Central America
reportedly reaching depths of up to 1,120 feet
It’s approximately 11 miles long by five miles wide with a surface area of around 50 square miles
It’s about a three-hour drive from the capital Guatemala City and two-and-a-half-hours from the beautiful colonial town and UNESCO World Heritage Site of Antigua
Atitlán translates to "between the waters" in the Nahuatl language and life here certainly does revolve around the water
people travel between the numerous lakeside villages by boat or from mountain roads that link some of the communities along the shore
Small motorboats called lanchas ferry passengers around and fishermen paddle placidly in their traditional
Maya culture is prevalent in the villages surrounding the lake
Folk from each Maya community can be identified by their unique
indigenous garments designed by the ancestors of their pueblo
The primarily indigenous population is predominantly Kaqchikel and Tz'utujil and each group has its own language
Spanish is Guatemala’s official language and although it’s generally understood here
it’s the second language of the Maya who speak their native Mayan tongue in the communities around the lake
There are 12 lakeside villages and towns with a thriving international expat community scattered among them
local communities subsist on fishing and farming
The hills are covered in lush coffee plantations
and other crops that thrive here in the fertile volcanic soil
its character changing with the weather and hour
green volcanoes contrast against sparkling
a unique wind meaning "the wind that carries away sin" in the Kaqchikel language
starts blowing daily across the lake around noon
the last rays of sunlight glisten on the water
volcanic peaks silhouetted against the vivid sunset skies
After living in Antigua and a nearby pueblo for many years
I’d still only made a few brief visits to The Lake as expats in Guatemala fondly refer to it
I decided to spend a long spell there to explore the area and diversify my photography portfolio
I ended up staying there for six fabulous months
I rented a room at a friendly guest house in busy Panajachel
is a principal gateway to the lake and home to many foreigners and international non-profit organizations
it’s also a transport hub to the communities around the lake
Every morning I walked along the main tourist drag lined with restaurants
and wooden stalls laden with colorful textiles and handicrafts
the stunning view of three volcanoes standing sentinel from over the glistening water greeted me at the lakeshore
My route continued along the water’s edge past restaurants just opening for breakfast
Still following the waterside and leaving the urban straggle behind
over a tiny rickety bridge spanning a small river
I passed a string of bare wooden stalls and lovely waterside properties set back in manicured gardens
This was my favorite place and one time along here; I caught a runaway horse escaped from its tether and had to go searching for its owner
Weekends are family outing time and every Sunday busloads of colorfully clad indigenous folk empty onto the beaches in front of the wooden stalls now filled with handmade souvenirs
Ministers preach loudly to their clustered congregation
sometimes standing waist-deep in the water baptizing the devout
I became good friends with two Kaqchikel Maya sisters working there
Every day we chatted in Spanish in the tiny open-air guest kitchen
and we regularly cooked and ate lunch together
Rosario and Ana are from the nearby town of Santa Catarina Palopó
a pueblo sprawling up the steep hillside and spilling down to the lake shores
The majority of the population are ethnic Kaqchikel Maya
huipil blouses and typical long skirts called cortes
I went to Santa Catarina Palopó various times with friends to photograph this colorful
The short ride there from Pana in the back of a public pickup truck aka the local bus
clifftop road with stunning views of the lake and volcanoes
I walked and ran there and back as my morning exercise
In addition to subsistence farming and fishing
income there now comes mainly from tourism including the manufacture of woven textiles
An ongoing community art project “Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó” is transforming the pueblo into a colorfully painted patchwork of buildings decorated with distinctive motifs based on their ancestral indigenous garments
The aim is to preserve their weaving designs and transform the town into an attractive tourist destination to improve the local economy
“The design starts from the idea that Santa Catarina is a large huipil that is drying on the mountain and that connects the lake with the sky of Atitlán.”
photographing spectacular lake views and beautifully dressed Maya folk against the unique architectural backdrop mimicking the colors and designs of their clothing
I met Rosario and Ana in Santa Catarina Palopó and hailed a pickup truck to the next lakeside village San Antonio Palopó
so it was fun going there with local friends and exploring on foot in the sunshine
I photographed twin white churches standing side by side draped in purple Lenten banners overlooking the lake
and ladies in the dark blue woven garb of the village washing their laundry on rocks by the lakeshore
peeked into tiny stores selling the signature ceramics of the pueblo
and visited the tiny produce market before heading back
enjoying a lancha ride before disembarking at the jetty of a lakeside pueblo
I climbed the steep hill from the dock up into Santa Cruz la Laguna clinging to the hillside above the lake
There I ate a traditional Guatemalan breakfast of black beans
and corn tortillas in an open hilltop restaurant with aerial views out over the lake
I then hiked the dirt path running along the cliff-top coastline to the tiny village of Jaibalito photographing the spectacular
the indigenous highland towns of Sumpango and Santiago Sacatepéquez each hold a giant kite festival on All Saints’ Day on November 1
Groups of Maya locals spend months designing and creating immense
Made of flimsy brightly-colored tissue paper attached to a sturdy bamboo framework
Although I’d visited both festivals several times while living in Antigua
Lake Atitlán’s first giant kite festival held on a remote hilltop against a backdrop of cobalt-blue water and volcanic peaks was difficult to resist
My friend and I rode in the back of a rackety
Arriving in the tiny town of San Andrés Semetabaj a few miles from the lake
our driver had to ask for directions for the final leg of the trip where we jostled and bumped through clouds of dust along a rural
blustery hilltops with a magnificent panorama of lustrous
wind-ruffled water backed by three conical volcanoes on the opposite lakeshore
groups were setting up a display of giant kites
were no match for the strong gusts lashing them from across the lake
and sadly many came toppling and tearing to the ground
That day I also witnessed a Maya land blessing at the same site
local indigenous men from competing villages clothed and painted as warriors
played the ceremonial Maya ballgame of their ancestors under the scorching sun in a dirt arena dug into the hillside
Santiago Atitlán is overshadowed by three volcanoes and is the largest of the lakeside communities
Inhabited by indigenous Tz’utujil folk their Holy Week celebrations are a unique blend of Catholic and Maya traditions
Men and women dressed in their town’s traditional indigenous style of clothing perform candlelit ceremonies in an incense-filled Catholic church
dozens of men dressed in matching red shirts and knee-length shorts beautifully embroidered with colorful birds
carry a colossal float bearing a statue of the crucified Jesus on their shoulders down the steep steps of the church into the crowded plaza
a wooden effigy of their indigenous Maya deity Maximón is carried out of a small chapel beside the church amongst hordes of black-suited musicians
they not only celebrate the resurrection of Jesus but also the rebirth of Maximón
Rows of dangling tropical fruits hang over extravagant
vividly dyed sawdust and flower carpets adorning the processional routes along the streets
Indigenous folk clad in traditional clothing
and carpet designs incorporating Maya figures and deities
add a unique flavor of kaleidoscopic color to the festivities
I spent my birthday weekend with my dear friend Abi and her family in her native village
We’d shared a house for a year in a pueblo near Antigua
San Juan la Laguna is a tranquil village on the lake shores sitting in the shadow of San Pedro Volcano
and the economy is based mostly on coffee and corn
It’s also known for its naturally dyed textiles and there are various local cooperatives including traditional Maya backstrap loom weavers and coffee growers
We wandered down dirt paths and along the peaceful shoreline taking photos during the glorious golden hour before sunset
We explored the livelier neighboring town San Pedro la Laguna
The town sits on a plateau beneath San Pedro Volcano with roads running steeply down to the waterside boat docks
The highlight however of not only my weekend but my entire six-month stay at Lake Atitlán
was climbing with Abi and her dogs in the darkness to the Rostro Maya viewpoint
Translating to Maya Face in reference to the shape of the hill
it’s commonly referred to as Indian Nose in English
Perched over 4,000 feet above the iconic Lake Atitlán
our reward was a spectacular view of the sparkling lake and a string of seven majestic volcanoes against the rising sun
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The tinny percussion of punta rock from a dockside bar and shouts of fishermen cleaning their nets gave way to a cottony silence
The boat drifted into the narrow mouth of the Rio Dulce as if being swallowed whole
leaf-shrouded bluffs sprang up on either side
Except for the bellow of a howler monkey in the canopy
everything seemed to hold its breath: the pendulous foliage and thatched houses by the muddy bank
two shirtless men line-fishing from a dugout canoe
Everything seemed to hold its breath: stoic egrets and a fat iguana
when this was a Spanish colonial stronghold
pirates routinely attempted the same stealthy entry to loot Izabal’s caches of gold and jade and cacao
only to be tripped up at the river’s end by a massive chain that was winched out of the water at the fortress of San Felipe de Lara
Casa PalopóJulien CapmeilAs we bobbed under a limestone cliff
its craggy façade morphed into the face of a man
The ancient Maya – whose civilisation stretched from the Yucatán Peninsula through present-day Guatemala to El Salvador and Honduras – believed caves were the entrance to the underworld
Guatemala is rife with such visual trickery
portals that seem to deliver the visitor into a living past
The gardens at Hotel Palacio de Doña LeonorJulien CapmeilThe Mayan concept of time is famously precise
comprises 18 months of 20 days – 360 days – plus an omen-filled month of five days at the end
the system used to track eras and epochs in which 20 tuns make a katun
when the universe is destroyed and recreated
The latest one ended quietly on 21 December 2012
Bedroom at Las CrucesJulien CapmeilBut time hasn’t smiled on the Maya
whose descendants make up nearly half of Guatemala’s population (the rest are largely Ladino
roads and reservoirs without the benefit of the wheel
THE BOAT DRIFTED INTO THE MOUTH OF THE RIVER AS IF BEING SWALLOWED WHOLE
The arrival of the conquistadors in the 1500s brought slavery and subjugation until independence in 1823
A brutal 36-year civil war left more than 200,000 dead before ending in 1996
government corruption and an intransigent power elite keep much of the indigenous population in poverty
Media coverage of caravans of migrants and drug-related gang violence has helped scare away much-needed tourism
intrepid travellers have long been drawn to the country’s sprawling pre-Columbian ruins
One of its staunchest allies has been Francis Ford Coppola
The boat brought me to his just-opened retreat
a cluster of thatched villas surrounded by palms
rhododendrons and orchids on the fringes of Lake Izabal
This quiet region in the south-east is home to commercial fishermen and weekend houses of Antigua families
the darkness and warmth blurring the lines between skin and air
Listening to the susurration of trees and the cries of jungle creatures
I have rarely felt safer than I did at that moment
who know the jungle-draped location as the rebel base in the original film
But these sites’ remoteness within the 5.2-million-acre Maya Biosphere Reserve inoculates them from the crowds at places such as Chichén Itzá in Mexico’s Yucatán
Tikal snoozed under tangled vegetation until explorers discovered it in 1848
Colourful art and candles at Casa PalopóJulien CapmeilRecently the Pacunam Foundation
an NGO focused on conservation and sustainable development
produced a ground-breaking aerial view of Tikal
a 3D-mapping tool that revealed 60,000 more houses
The discovery suggests a sophisticated civilisation comparable to ancient Greece or China
irrigation and agricultural terracing that could support 10 to 15 million people – twice previous estimates
Building in AntiguaJulien CapmeilThe closest I could get to this god’s-eye view was to climb the wooden scaffold up the pyramid of Temple IV
at 230ft the tallest pre-Columbian structure in the Americas
The forest was pierced by five more temples
their crumbling roof combs reaching into clouds the colour of steel wool
astronomers calculated the rising and setting points of the sun and moon
Casa PalopóJulien CapmeilThe Maya buried their dead with maize in their mouth – food for the journey to the underworld and a symbol of rebirth
where a team of young Guatemalans caked in white limestone were gingerly tapping away through layers of history
one edifice built on top of another in cycles of 52 years
said to be the life expectancy for royalty
but a transition,’ my garrulous guide Antonio explained as we crossed the grassy main plaza
where indigenous visitors still use the ceremonial fire pit
was thought to descend underground to the sacred ceiba tree
‘To feed the stars to keep them guiding new generations
It’s very common to see people at night outside their houses
looking to the sky and talking to those who are one step ahead
This is one way you get to understand how people living with not too much in this country always smile.’
Cowboy saddle at La LanchaJulien CapmeilBack at La Lancha I paddled out on Lake Petén Itzá until the guests drinking sundowners on the thatched jetty were the size of worry dolls
From my canoe I watched the sun sink into a mountain on one side and a nearly full moon rise on the other – yesterday and tomorrow held in momentary balance before the Long Count plunged the lake into darkness
Façade in AntiguaJulien CapmeilGuatemala means 'place of many trees'
but it’s also a place of many volcanoes: 37 of them
This topography rises up to greet you when you fly into Guatemala City
the entry point to the rural western highlands
The roads out of the capital are smooth yet choked by traffic and chicken buses
old US school buses repainted like spaceships and decks of cards
the commercial strips soon yield to volcanic farmland of sugarcane
This is the cornucopia that the American-owned United Fruit Company controlled for decades
Guatemala’s president attempted a more equitable land redistribution
the CIA deemed the move to be a Communist plot and instigated a coup
whose effects were felt most deeply in this region
Beyond Expeditions tented camp at Lake AtitlánJulien CapmeilI spent the night at a temporary camp
a stunning crater lake that is the deepest in Central America
Cows nibbled at the grass behind the airy white tents decked out with woven blankets
Children came from the village to try out their English
Across the lake the notched silhouette of Volcán de Fuego
Santiago local wearing traditional woven clothesJulien CapmeilThe operation is managed by Noé Carrillo Vasquez
a 40-year- old local with shining eyes and an athletic build
he left his highlands village and travelled more than 1,000 miles to the USA
where he found a job as a cleaner in Georgia
He earned a college football scholarship but missed his family and returned home
which has allowed him to put eight of his 11 siblings through school
‘Everyone here has a story like it,’ he said with a shrug
The small tented kitchen is run by his sister Carolina
Wearing a woven huipil shirt and ikat skirt
she wordlessly prepared her mother’s pepián
a cold wind hammering the tent as we devoured the stew of tomatoes
thickened with ground sesame and pumpkin seeds and spiced with dried chillis
midwives and bonesetters operate a small medicinal garden
Tuk-tuks on the streets of SantiagoJulien CapmeilIn Antigua
the one-time Spanish capital with UNESCO- protected cobblestone streets and colonial façades of ochre
The scars of many earthquakes are evident – the Cathedral of Santiago
is a haunting shell of archways and pillars
The high-ceilinged residences with leafy courtyards have attracted many expats
who can be spotted sitting in tiled cafés sipping matcha lattes and mezcal
or browsing at La Nueva Fábrica contemporary-art gallery
inside La Nueva Fábrica gallery in AntiguaJulien CapmeilAbove the city
a weaving enterprise where San Francisco expat Molly Berry advises young artisans
One morning two sisters from a highlands village were working on backstrap and foot looms; they’re also learning about management and accounting while supporting their family back home
‘Textiles are the heart and soul of Guatemala,’ said Berry
who moved from Panama City with her Guatemalan husband and children six years ago
‘By helping women understand how much it’s valued
Luna ZorroJulien CapmeilOn my last afternoon I found the streets around Parque Central blocked off. Ducking the crafts vendors, balloon hawkers and marimba players, I spotted a procession carrying a carved painted Virgin on an enormous platform borne by older women in red skirts and lace headscarves
As they shuffled along to the strains of a brass band
stopping every few minutes to allow a team of young men to lift the weight off their shoulders
a cluster of four thatched-roof cabins and outdoor lounges right in the middle of the jungle
a temporary tented camp that creates jobs for the villagers and leaves no trace when broken down
a former private home filled with 17th-century silver and oil paintings
Black Tomato can arrange similar trips to Guatemala. blacktomato.com
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With its ancient roots and longstanding traditions
Guatemala is a country that’s deeply committed to preserving its rich culture
The Central American country just south of Mexico is known around the globe for its impossibly beautiful craftsmanship
particularly when it comes to vibrant textiles
But it’s also gained an unfortunate reputation for crime and poverty
and that’s deterred American tourists for quite some time
Guatemala is also taking small steps to adapt and move forward on the political and cultural front
took office after anti-corruption demonstrations led to a peaceful overthrow of the government
it’s experiencing a creative boom that’s attracting big interest from the global art crowd
Mexico City before it was what it is today
Beyond Guatemala City, nestled in the Guatemala Highlands a few hours from the capital, lies one of the nation’s most alluring destinations: Casa Palopó
The luxury boutique hotel sits on the mountain
you’ll find art by up-and-coming Guatemalan artists and some of the nation’s most established names
like Erwin Guillermo and Maria Dolores Castellanos
it would be easy to hole up for a week and not leave the property
so here are 10 suggestions for exciting destinations
with a little help from Casa Palopó owner and native Guatemalan Claudia Bosch
that just might be able to lure you away from the relaxing confines of your room
“Very few places have been able to preserve their ancient roots
preserving traditions in an ever-evolving modern world,” says Bosch
and authenticity of its people is what makes Guatemala a hidden gem worth discovering.”
Circus BarA local pizza joint in the town of Panajachel with live jazz music and a touch of Guatemalan culture
Cafe LocoFor coffee, make sure to stop into Cafe Loco in Panajachel
Run by a group of über-hip Korean baristas
the specialty coffee shop is filled with locals and travelers alike trying to get one of Cafe Loco’s killer brews
The Restaurant at Casa PalopóThe restaurant at Casa Palopó
led by executive chef Mario André Miralles
chef Miralles and his staff serve up traditional Guatemalan dishes
candlelit affair) he offers a variety of fresh fish dishes cooked to perfection
Los Tres TiemposLos Tres Tiempos in Antigua is one of the city’s most charming restaurants
Sit on the patio and feast on tapas plates and sip on the house cocktail
Good luck trying to have just one of these
the restaurant at Mesón Panza Verde in Antigua is a must
Shop the MarketsShopping the local markets is a must in Guatemala
locally woven textiles at very affordable prices
Don’t leave without picking up a pillow or a rug (or
It’s worth visiting Santiago just to see the men in their traditional dress
While the women still wear their traditionally woven skirts and tops
the men (for the most part) wear modern clothes throughout most of the country
they are still sporting their black-and-white striped pants
It’s about an hour’s boat ride across Lake Atitlán from Casa Palopó
“The tradition is to light a candle of your choice for Saint Antonio—they are color-coded according to your wish
Hike Volcan San PedroA great way to experience a different side of Lake Atitlán is hiking the San Pedro volcano (Guatemala has 22 active volcanoes in total)
which is part of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas mountain range
it offers breathtaking views of the region
An ambitious painting project designed to boost tourism and community spirit launches in lakeside Santa Catarina Palopó
Guatemala’s Lake Atitlán is famed for its striking scenery: cobalt-blue waters fringed with dramatic volcanic cones and scattered Mayan villages
And now the site is about to add a rather different attraction to its shores
The lakeside community of Santa Catarina Palopó is embarking on an ambitious project to turn itself into a monumental piece of artwork
with a view to generating an alternative source of tourism income for locals
It’s the brainchild of Harris Whitbeck, a Guatemalan journalist and believer in art as an agent of social change, whose family has links to the lake going back three generations. When he saw how renowned Dutch artists Jeroen Koolhaas and Dre Urhahn had transformed the Rio de Janeiro favela of Vila Cruzeiro with vibrant colour
the idea of Pintando Santa Catarina Palopó was born
“Studies show that if the physical environment of a community is improved
crime levels fall and new businesses open up,” Whitbeck said
View image in fullscreenPrototype design in a plaza
was on board from the start and the project has created a greater connection between the villagers – many of whom only speak their native language
Kaqchikel – and the Spanish-speaking “weekenders” from Guatemala City
said: “Living in darkness can be difficult
To be surrounded by new ideas and by colour is much better
Everything can be achieved when there is will and participation
and I’m convinced that the project will create more opportunities for our village.”
One of Central America’s largest cement companies
Whitbeck discovered that lime-based paint is cheap to produce and has anti-fungal and anti-humidity properties
the villagers’ ancestors were using lime-based paint 5,000 years ago
The company also covered the fees of the Dutch duo – better known as Haas & Hahn – who ran a Color Lab workshop in November last year
A wall surrounding the football pitch was used to experiment with colours
Whitbeck estimates it could take up to two years to complete the project
The hope is that the village will attract more tourists and generate money for homestays
“The community will determine how the project evolves,” said Whitbeck
“They might create a [tour] guides’ cooperative
More details on Facebook; to donate, go to santacatarina.gt (website goes live soon)
Palopo has a high level of seismic activity
Based on data from the past 55 years and our earthquake archive back to 1900
there are about 181 quakes on average per year in or near Palopo
Palopo has had at least 2 quakes above magnitude 6 since 1900
which suggests that larger earthquakes of this size occur infrequently
probably on average approximately every 60 to 65 years
The depth of the quake is unknown.The quake was not felt (or at least not reported so)
Palopo has had 1 quake of magnitude 3.1 and 14 quakes between 2.0 and 3.0
There were also 10 quakes below magnitude 2.0 which people don't normally feel
The strongest earthquake in Palopo in the past 7 days had a magnitude of 3.1 and occurred 6 hours ago: Mag. 3.1 earthquake Sulawesi - Indonesia - writeAge(1746487985)A light magnitude 3.1 earthquake hit 61 km (38 mi) away from Masamba, South Sulawesi, Indonesia
there are about 4.6 quakes on average per year in or near Palopo
Palopo has had at least 3 quakes above magnitude 7 since 1900
probably on average approximately every 40 to 45 years
Palopo has about 5 quakes of magnitude 2 or higher per year
Palopo has had 3 quakes of magnitude 3.0 or above and 30 quakes between 2.0 and 3.0
The depth of the quake is unknown.The quake was reported felt by some people near the epicenter.