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Gregory Cook is a retired Air Force Colonel now traveling the globe as an international airline pilot
On my first night in a small Italian town called Acqui Terme
I wandered into Piazza Della Bollente in the medieval center of this historic community
and nabbed a table at Pizza Ristorante Vecchio Borgo
the pizzeria’s outdoor seating area offered a magnificent view of La Bollente ("the boiling")—thermal springs that bubble up in the plaza center at a consistent 166 F
steps lead up to a magnificent marble Greek-style temple
filling jugs and anointing themselves with the healing water
a rich and luscious red wine made from the same grape that made Barolo—"The King of Wines and the Wine of Kings"—famous
The water and wine washed down a delicious wood oven-fired thin-crust diavola (devil) pizza made with zesty tomato sauce and spicy salami
The server hailed from Albania and spoke fluent English
This proved serendipitous… I’d come to Acqui Terme in search of the perfect second home… and found it
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For many, Italy conjures up images of tourist-infested urban centers… or isolated historic villages
I sought something different for a place to hang my hat
a place where I could enjoy all Italy has to offer… but without the crowds and without giving up the conveniences of modern living
What I wanted was the perfect mix of charm
and amenities—a place to unwind and do nothing at all
the rest of Europe is easily accessible by road—my preferred method for exploring
My second consideration was easy access from the US
with year-round direct flights to and from an international gateway airport
I also wanted multiple day-tripping options
with little to no snow in the lower elevations
yet one with all the professional services I needed within walking distance
Equally important was an array of food establishments and cultural activities (an outdoor market
Affordable housing also ranked high on the list
I found all this and more—my perfect place—in Acqui Terme
named for the geothermal waters that spring forth in the center of town
"Acqui" (for short) lies in the Piemonte region of Northern Italy
Acqui Terme has less than 25,000 residents
but a surprisingly large array of services
The entire town is walkable from end-to-end in less than 30 minutes
these give way to houses and small farms in the vineyards and hills
I was struck immediately by Acqui Terme’s small-town feel. Its pedestrian-only historic town center is the main gathering place for locals and visitors alike. Reminiscent of the alleyways of Rome
the charming cobbled lanes are chock-full of cafes
Nineteenth-century architectural gems also line the streets
including remnants of an aqueduct and fountain that highlight the importance of water to the city
there are several old churches and a Duomo
the 11th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta
There’s also a small outdoor amphitheater with summer concerts beneath the walls of Castello dei Paleologi
It houses an archeological museum rich in artifacts dating to the Roman period
Friday is one of Acqui’s twice-weekly market days
when residents from area villages pour in for their shopping needs
Streets throughout the historic district are filled with handicrafts and baked goods
plus a full array of high-quality clothing
The scene rivals markets I’ve seen in larger urban cities across Europe
The farmers market in Acqui fills an entire piazza alone
vocal stall vendors beckon passers-by to choose from vast amounts of colorful local produce
and affordability of the fruits and vegetables
two cheese wagons on either side of the square offered fresh epicurean delights from throughout Italy and Europe
Butcher shops on adjacent streets featured huge displays of fresh and cured meats
with full prosciutto hams and strings of sausages hanging overhead
Other shops featured fresh whole seafood on ice
sourced from the nearby waters and ports of the Italian Riviera
I also found fresh Porcini mushrooms and truffles in shops dedicated to these local specialties
Wonderful smells wafted from the many restaurants in the area
Young professionals overflowed from the cafes
Residents strolled the promenade with their dogs… and it seemed meandering with a gelato was mandatory
Acqui Terme has good access roads spoking from the town in every direction
It’s just 97 miles from the Milan Malpensa Airport via high-speed autostrada toll roads for the first hour
then a well-maintained provincial highway for the last 40 minutes
then exit the autostrada at Alessandria Sud and proceed west onto SP30
Regional airports in Turin and Genoa are just over an hour away
The rail station in town has two tracks and connections to the entire European rail network
One of my main draws to Acqui was the low cost and number of housing options available. Through Idealista.ie
I found an abundance of apartments close to the town center
ranging from fixer-uppers for €30,000 ($30,810) to fully renovated and new units starting around €80,000 ($82,161)
I found my place—a large apartment of over 1,400 square feet with four bedrooms
On a hilltop just across the street from the historic district
my 4th-floor unit features balconies on three sides
It needed a facelift due to old peeling wallpaper in every room
I would also need to upgrade the electrical system and install a kitchen (most Italians take kitchen appliances and fixtures when they move)
With renovations now completed and the apartment furnished
I intend to enjoy visits from family and friends during my 90 days
then make it available for short-term rentals
Acqui’s location is ideal for day-tripping and exploration
In every direction there are quaint and historic small towns with medieval churches and castles
where you can find the largest selection and variety of fine Piemonte wines
you can head to Asti for the Palio di Asti
where local communities participate in a variety of costumed events and parades
It culminates in a dramatic bareback horse race for the prize—the Palio
with many architectural gems and an annual fall International Truffle Festival
you can travel to the urban centers of Milan
each with their unique culture and history
Several Italian and Swiss Alps ski resorts
the Italian Riviera with its beaches and coastal cities
plus the five scenic towns of the Cinque Terre are also all within a two-hour radius
Within four hours, you can be exploring Monaco, Nice, Florence, Pisa, Venice
Acqui Terme met all my essential criteria for retirement living and travel aspirations
a Mercer University School of Music adjunct professor became the first harp teacher at a long-standing music festival in Acqui Terme
Calista Anne Koch’s skills were requested by the Interharmony Music Festival
which was founded in 1997 but had never before offered harp instruction
She recruited several harp students to attend the two-week event
and I was very flattered that they sought me out,” Koch said
“They’ve asked me to come back next year and keep doing it
I’m looking forward to the future and having more time to prepare
Being able to perform with such world-class faculty was such an honor.”
Koch worked with the harpists — who came from Middle Georgia
She also coached chamber ensembles and led orchestra sectionals
which helped the musicians to prepare for performances held throughout the festival
including a faculty concert in which she performed a duet with a flutist
Renowned Swiss/Russian harpist Alexander Boldachev gave a community spotlight concert and provided a master class for the harp students
was one of the harpists who had the opportunity to learn from Boldachev
“He’s kind of a harp hero to me,” said Waddy
“Once I found out I might have the opportunity to meet and seek instruction from him
of course I wanted to get over (to the festival) if possible
I want to take every opportunity I can to work with orchestras.”
a seven-member ensemble and a full orchestra
She said it was a wonderful learning experience to work with an international orchestra and conductor
and she enjoyed getting to engage with other harpists
Harp instruction at the festival would not have been possible if not for its location
Transporting a harp is expensive and presents many logistical challenges
but harp-building company Salvi Harps is located in the same province as Acqui Terme and provided instruments for the musicians to use
The festival location was interesting from cultural
Koch said they were a mile away from some of the Roman aqueducts
and a hot spring ran through the center of town.
“It was such a fascinating little town to be in,” Koch said
and we were putting on concerts from 9:30 in the morning to 11 at night
It was an interesting opportunity to see a different culture as well.”
Waddy said performing in historic churches and buildings in the town was inspiring
Some of the concerts were so well attended that the venues were standing-room only.
“It was really amazing being able to play for so many people,” she said
It was such a treat to be able to see so many works of art displayed on the walls and the architecture
It was magical being able to perform and listening to my friends perform in such whimsical places.”
(Image credit: RCS Sport)(Image credit: RCS Sport)Stage 4 from the hot sulphur springs of Acqui Terme to Andora (not Andorra - big difference) - a beautiful resort town along the Italian Riviera with pristine shorelines
The riders will hit the first intermediate sprint in Calizzano and a single climb
the Colle del Melogno and the Intergiro sprint in Altare before hitting the coast at Savona
where they'll have another intermediate sprint
it's a rapid run down the coast to the expected bunch sprint in Andora
That stretch was followed by Geraint Thomas, who said Pogačar was "kicking my head in".
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This year is a collaboration between various places in the region in Piedmont such as Acqui Terme
Various wine events will take place as part of Città di Vino 2024
The unique collaboration between cities such as Acqui Terme
Ghemme and many others illustrates an innovative approach to the promotion of wine regions
but an entire region unites under the flag of Alto Piemonte – Gran Monferrato
with each municipality making its own unique contribution to the whole
This symbiosis has not only attracted the attention of the European Commission of Recevin
but has also shed light on the collective efforts needed to earn such recognition
The title ‘European Wine City 2024’ is not just an accolade; it is a testament to the commitment to sustainability
quality and the Slow Food and Slow Wine movements
which are deeply rooted in Piedmontese culture
These movements emphasize the importance of local production
sustainable farming practices and nurturing traditional methods
all essential elements that form the basis of wine production in this region
Upcoming events in 2024 will undoubtedly highlight the diversity and quality of the wines from Alto Piemonte – Gran Monferrato
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The European Senior Chess Championships 2023 concluded yesterday in Acqui Terme
with the closing and award ceremony for the Winners
The event was played in two age categories: 50+ and 65+
with separate women’s competition in 50+ category
Women’s 65+ section was merged with the Open
and the best ranked female players were crowned European Women’s 65+ Champions
It was a very tight race for the top of the 50+ Open competition
Five players were in the lead heading into the last round which determined the medalists
as many as seven players tied for first place scoring 6.5 points
Tiebreak criteria favored GM Zurab Sturua (GEO
2393) came second and IM Jose Antonio Lacasa Diaz (ESP
2081) won the Women’s 50+ event with a round to spare
She scored 6.5/9 points to be a point and a half of the runner-ups
2005) and Ni Polina (1892) tied for silver
but Birkholz Olga had better tiebeaks and clinched silver
It was a very intense final round in the Open 65+ tournament which finished with a lot of decisive results and five-way tie for the top
and waited for tiebreaks to determine the medalists
2579) had the best tiebreak criteria and clinched gold medal
2370) came second and GM Lubomir Ftacnik (SVK
2205) was the best-ranked female player in the tournament with a score of 6 points and claimed the title of European Women’s 65+ Chess Champion 2023
2274) suffered an unfortunate loss in the last round against GM John Nunn
fighting for the very top of the standings
All results and rankings can be found here
The Closing Ceremony of the event was held yesterday evening with the attendance of the ECU Vice President Mr
Official website of the event
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One climb before the midway point should help early break build time
Although the race from Acqui Terme to Andora racks up 1,700 meters in altitude gain over 190km on stage 4 of the Giro d’Italia
the profile is one which could result in another opportunity for the sprinters
A gentle rise from the start to the sprint in Calizzano (km 79.2) is followed by the day’s only climb
the downhill and then flat roads after the summit should make things difficult for any early break trying to fend off the sprinters’ teams
following as it does the Ligurian coastline of Milan-San Remo and taking in the uncategorized La Primavera climb of Capo Mele inside the final 3 km
The final 800 meters are completely straight and flat
which could herald the second big bunch sprint of the Giro
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As the pair's curly-haired Lagotto dogs Bianca and Luna dart off into the undergrowth
tumbling over each other in their quivering search for that elusive scent
who first took him out looking for prized white tartufi in the woods of Le Langhe
These days truffle hunting is an almost exclusively male preserve
it was mostly the women who went out looking for mushrooms and truffles while the men were at work
white truffles that today command hundreds of euros at Alba’s annual international truffle fair would be thrown into a minestrone ‘to give it a bit more flavour’
No other part of the Italian countryside has so many in such a small area
And southern Piedmont is finally getting there on the accommodation front
including two big openings in 2021: the Alpine-chic Casa di Langa and Nordelaia
a boutique stay in a coolly converted farmhouse
with few really persuasive places to stay)
The jumping-off point for the Langhe and Roero wine regions is the market town of Alba. Its pugnacious skyline bristles with medieval towers, but at ground level it’s all boutiques, wine bars and delis. Nearby Bra – another of those neat Piedmontese towns that somehow manages to transmit flowery charm and a nose for business in equal measure – is the headquarters of the Slow Food movement
which was founded here in the 1980s to defend the local culinary culture
Ceretto asked colour-obsessed American artist Sol LeWitt and British artist David Tremlett to turn Cappella del Barolo
a wayside chapel they owned next to their La Morra vineyards
this joyful chromatic dance is now such an Instagram star that the council has been forced to ban weekend private traffic on the narrow gravel road that leads there
‘and yet when we unveiled it we got a lot of flak from the locals.’
More Ceretto-commissioned art is on view at the winery’s three-Michelin-starred Piazza Duomo restaurant in the centre of Alba
where chef Enrico Crippa’s dishes are almost overshadowed by the pink frescoed walls
with birdcage motifs by Francesco Clemente
who describes himself as ‘a sculptor who paints walls’
has left his mark on three other former religious buildings in the Langhe and Monferrato wine zones
These include the church of Beata Maria Vergine del Carmine
its exterior now a freeform play of wine-dark reds
which organises one or two multi-artist shows each year
spreads around an interconnected group of village houses
one of which is a B&B and artists’ residence featuring the owner’s collection of Arte Povera pieces from the 1960s and 70s
Zunino stresses that they are not ‘importing culture’ so much as reviving it in an area dotted with ancient chapels and churches
Southern Piedmont has opened up plenty in the last couple of decades – to art, to gastronomy, to the stranieri who have begun buying up holiday villas and farmhouses in the area
like the hazelnut that is the key ingredient to Nutella
If Tuscany’s wine regions are proud but gregarious
Piedmont’s are reserved and marked by tribal and family loyalties that go back to less prosperous times
He’s one of the few outsiders to have gained entry into the world of Barolo wine-making
A restaurateur from Denver with a passion for Nebbiolo (the grape variety that is the sole component of Barolo and Barbaresco)
he started visiting Piedmont in 1995 and moved here 11 years ago
determined to break into the local wine scene
‘I knocked on a lot of doors,’ he tells me
one of the pioneering ‘Barolo Boys’ who in the 1980s and 90s convinced the world that the region’s wines could compete with those of Burgundy or Bordeaux
told Manley that if he came to work for him
‘Which was a bit like Keith Richards saying
“Come round to my place and I’ll teach you to play guitar,”’ says Manley
Manley has finally achieved what counts for acceptance round these parts
‘In the main piazza of Monforte there’s always a group of old guys sitting there
‘I said “Buongiorno” to them every day for 18 months and got no reaction
one of them finally lifted his chin slightly in acknowledgement and I was like: “Yes!”’ Today
His story is a neat metaphor for a serious part of Italy light-years from all those arm-waving
the soul of southern Piedmont needs patience to unearth – but it’s all the more rewarding when you do
New in 2021, converted farmhouse Nordelaia, in Cremolino, makes a good case for a stay in a relatively undiscovered part of southern Piedmont. Its peach-pink villa has been turned into a dozen crisp rooms with a hammam spa and glassy dining annexe, where British chef Charles Pearce works creative magic on simple dishes such as an umami-packed cheese and onion tart. Doubles from about £250; nordelaia.com
If you can get beyond the bracing moss-green exterior, Gavi’s Locanda La Raia really channels the quirky appeal of the south-eastern, almost-in-Liguria corner of Piedmont. A revamped 12-bedroom coaching inn, it mixes retro-modern design with country comfort. Doubles from about £230; la-raia.it
Piazza Duomo in Alba is the culinary Everest of this area, where wiry chef Enrico Crippa (he’s a keen cyclist) shuns à la carte in favour of guided menus whose dishes have names such as Journey through History. It’s a thrilling trip, based on produce that arrives from the restaurant’s own farm twice a day. Fixed-price menu from about £225 per person; piazzaduomoalba.it
A no-nonsense regional trattoria with a pretty inner courtyard, Battaglino in Bra is an institution in the town that gave Slow Food to the world. Go for reliable classics such as mincemeat-stuffed agnolotti del plin – although it also offers at least a couple of daily vegan or vegetarian options. About £50 for two; ristorantebattaglino.it
Not so much destination restaurant as destination trattoria, Da Fausto is a delightful, family-run place a few miles south of Acqui that serves a mix of good, seasonal Piedmontese and Ligurian specialities. It’s set in a restored stone farmhouse, with a terrace and four bright and simple bedrooms for those who want to linger. About £60 for two; relaisborgodelgallo.it
It’s the setting as much as the Barolos that makes a tasting at Ceretto, one of Le Langhe’s most dynamic wineries, a must. Design and contemporary art riff engagingly off one another at this company HQ amid the vines. ceretto.com
In complete contrast is Castello di Verduno, a historic, female-run winery offering a glimpse into an older world of Barolo production. This is at its most evocative in the ancient vaulted cellars beneath the Savoy-era castle, which also houses a charming old-school restaurant and guesthouse. cantinecastellodiverduno.it
Specialising in white wines based on the Cortese grape, La Raia is a gorgeously landscaped biodynamic winery in Gavi. Visit for the twice-daily tastings and tours, which also take in part of the estate’s site-specific contemporary art collection. la-raia.it
Keep scrolling for more images of Piedmont…
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The ECU Senior Chess Championship 2023 is in the books
Women 65+ competed in the Open 65+ Swiss tournament (with separate ranking and prizes)
while ladies 50+ had their own competition
As many as five players scored 7/9 in the 65+ tournament after the leaders
GM Lubomir Ftacnik and FM Terry Chapman drew their final-round game and allowed Jose Fernandez Garcia
The Buchholz (second variable) favoured the reigning Word Senior Champion John Nunn
Jose Fernandez Garcia and Lubomir Fracnik won silver and bronze
WGM Gisela Fischdick pulled off a crucial last-round victory over Wim Kortis and leapfrogged legendary GM Nona Gaprindashvili
WGM Gisela Fischdick (Germany) European champion – 6
The Open 50+ was an even closer race with seven players
including the defending European Senior Champion GM Martin Mrva and the reigning World Senior Champion GM Zurab Sturua
scoring 6.5/9 and tying for the top position
the reigning World Senior Champion Zurab Sturua had the best Buchholz and claimed the title
Fabrizio Bellia and Jose Lacasa Diaz earned silver and bronze
The 50+ Women round-robin saw the triumph of the rating-favourite WGM Marina Makropoulou of Greece who finished 1.5 ahead of Olga Birhkolz (Germany) and Polina Ni (Latvia)
The champion became the only unbeaten player in the tournament
Photos: ECU Senior chess 2023
Official website: scaccomattissimo.com/ecu-senior-2023/
© 2025 FIDE International Chess Federation. All Rights Reserved. No part of this site may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any way or by any means (including photocopying, recording or storing it in any medium by electronic means), without the written permission of FIDE International Chess Federation.
2022Tom ParkerSave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors
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All listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors
truffle hunting is an almost exclusively male preserve
it was his grandmother who went out looking for mushrooms and truffles while his grandfather was at work
white truffles that today command hundreds of euros at AlbaÆs autumn Fiera Internazionale del Tartufo Bianco d’Alba would be thrown into a minestrone “to give it a bit more flavor.”
but no less life-changing journey to work in the factories of Turin
providing an upscale base for the swath of wine districts that stretches from Le Langhe to Gavi
Roberta Ceretto’s grandfather Riccardo moved to Alba in the 1930s from a dirt-poor village in the high Langhe and found work with a local wine producer
he soon set up his own business vinifying grapes that he bought from a variety of growers
and uncle Marcello came on board in the 1960s that Ceretto—today one of the area’s leading producers—began investing in vineyards
back in the days when Barolo was still sold in demijohns,” Roberta tells me
“but it was the next generation that led the revolution.” We stand looking out over the vines planted around the company HQ from L’Acino (“The Grape”)
a transparent domed tasting room that thrusts out from the hillside like a Bond villain’s lair
the Ceretto family asked artists Sol LeWitt and artist David Tremlett to turn La Cappella del Barolo
this joyful chromatic eruption is now an attraction for the global Instagram set
“It has become a symbol of the territory,” Roberta says
“and yet when we unveiled it we got a lot of flak from locals.”
The quiet road approaching Ceretto Wineries
Ravioli del plin with roasted sauce at Guido Ristorante
More Ceretto-commissioned art is on view at the winery’s Piazza Duomo restaurant in the center of Alba
where in 2007 Italian artist Francesco Clemente frescoed the main dining room of what has since become
Piedmont’s only three-Michelin-star dining destination
who describes himself as a sculptor who paints walls
has left his mark on five other former religious buildings in the nearby Langhe and Monferrato wine zones
These include the small church of Beata Maria Vergine del Carmine
its exterior now a jazzy play of wine-dark reds
in one of the remotest corners of the wooded Alta Langa
art gallery Lunetta 11 occupies most of the buildings in Borgata Lunetta
a beautifully unreconstructed rural hamlet
Young co-directors Claudia Zunino and Francesco Pistoi live here with Pistoi’s art-dealer mother
and the three remaining original inhabitants of what was once a thriving agricultural borgo
which organizes one or two multi-artist shows each year
one of which is a B&B and artists’ residence featuring Arte Povera pieces from Menzio’s collection
Zunino stresses that the gallerists are not “importing culture” so much as reviving it in an area dotted with ancient chapels and churches that were made by and with the community
Southern Piedmont has opened up plenty in the last couple of decades—to art
to the stranieri who have begun buying up holiday villas and farmhouses in the area
But like the hazelnut that is the key ingredient of Nutella
the town has a shell that can be hard to crack
If Tuscany’s wine regions are proud and gregarious
A snug chill-out area at Relais San Maurizio in Santo Stefano Belbo
It’s a challenge Alan Manley recognizes—and relishes
He’s one of the few outsiders to have gained entry to the world of Barolo winemaking
A restaurateur and wine buff who moved to Piedmont 11 years ago
Manley has a passion for Nebbiolo (the grape variety that is the sole component of Barolo and Barbaresco)
determined to understand the local wine scene and perhaps
“I knocked on a lot of doors,” he tells me
one of the pioneering “Barolo Boys” who in the 1980s and 1990s convinced the world that the region’s wines could compete with those of Burgundy or Bordeaux
“Which was a bit like Keith Richards saying
‘Come round to my place and I’ll teach you to play guitar,’ ” Manley quips
This was the very beginning of an adventure that would lead him
Through a mix of perseverance and simply being seen around a lot
Manley has finally achieved what counts for acceptance around these parts
there’s always a group of old guys sitting there
‘Buongiorno’ to them every day for 18 months and got no reaction
one of them finally lifted his chin slightly in acknowledgment
‘Yes!’” Today they even talk to him occasionally
Manley’s story is a neat metaphor for a serious
reserved part of Italy lightyears from all those arm-waving
the soul of southern Piedmont needs patience to unearth—but it’s all the more rewarding when you do
The earthen palette of a guest room at Nordelaia
this new arrival feels a little like the prow of a huge ship about to set sail over the vineyards toward the snow-capped mountains that shimmer on the horizon
a hint of eco-chic alpine design comes through in the 39 spacious guest rooms (doubles from $500)
The mood is more jazzily urban in the panoramic Faùla restaurant
seasonal riffs on the Piedmontese recipe book jostle for attention with the contemporary-art collection of the American owner
Don’t miss out on a Piedmontese wine tasting with personable head sommelier Pier Francesco Molinari—if you’re new to the region
La Morra: With their midcentury-modern design touches
the 10 rooms of this stylish mini resort overlooking one of Barolo’s most celebrated vineyards make for a perfect Langhe base
Many people stay here just to eat at Osteria Arborina
a rising star with a militant “zero-kilometer” commitment to locally sourced ingredients
Santo Stefano Belbo: When it opened in 2002
this 17th-century monastery conversion was Le Langhe’s first real high-end
it’s still one of the most elegant bolt-holes in the area
kept in contention by a magnificent rock-hewn spa
If you’ve never tried the Piedmontese specialty vitello tonnato—wine-marinated veal in an anchovy-and-caper sauce—try it here first
this boutique charmer with doubles from $230 makes a good case for a stay in a part of southern Piedmont that
It’s housed in a peach-pink villa whose interiors have been engagingly restyled with old-meets-new verve by U.K
alongside Genoese architect Valerio Tunesi
The feeling that you’ve walked into a local art collector’s house party is enhanced by simpatico GM Alfonso Spinelli
British chef Charles Pearce puts a creative spin on the local tradition upstairs at L’Orto with affordable prix-fixe menus featuring dishes like an umami-rich cheese-and-onion tart
Gavi: If you can get beyond the bracing moss-green exterior (which—ahem—grows on you)
coaching-inn makeover really channels the quirky appeal of the southeastern
with its mix of retro-modern design and country-comfort doubles from $315 per night
The elegant dining room of Guido Ristorante
Duck with sour cherries and saffron at Guido Ristorante
Tasting rooms with views at Ceretto Wineries
Ceretto Wineries
Alba: It’s the setting as much as the Barolos that makes a tasting at one of Le Langhe’s most dynamic wineries a must: a company HQ among the vines
and contemporary art riff engagingly off one another
Castello di Verduno, Verduno: This small
female-run winery offers a glimpse into an older world of Barolo production at its most evocative in the ancient vaulted cellars beneath the Savoy-era castle
which also houses a charming old-school restaurant and guesthouse
La Raia, Gavi: Specializing in white wines based on the Cortese grape
this gorgeously landscaped biodynamic winery organizes twice-daily tastings and tours
which also include part of the estate’s site-specific contemporary-art collection
This article appeared in the March 2022 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
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Tadej Pogačar maintains overall lead in Andora
Ganna launched at the foot of the Capo Mele with 4km to go
setting off on an individual pursuit to the line
but it was his Italian track teammates Simone Consonni and Milan who worked hardest to chase him down inside the final kilometre before the final sprint
Milan then launched his sprint when he was overtaken by Christophe Laporte (Visma-Lease a Bike)
and seemed to have hit the front too early
But the brutish Italian was able to maintain his power and hold off a charging Kaden Groves (Alpecin-Deceuninck) and Phil Bauhaus (BahrainVictorious)
This is the Italian sprinter’s second Giro d’Italia stage victory
and his points haul on the line moved him into the lead of the maglia ciclamino
I said from the beginning we came here with one goal for everyone so today the guys did an amazing job and it was such an amazing sensation to win here again at the Giro d’Italia,” said Milan grinning ear to ear post-race
“I really have to say thanks always to my teammates
so I’m really happy about it.”
Ganna’s attack forced the race into a frantic chase and upped the pace significantly on the final downhill run to Andora with fifth-place Tim Merlier stating he was “happy I’m still alive” after the finale which he said was “just really
really hectic and a bit too dangerous”
But Milan was best positioned by his Lidl-Trek team and avoided any trouble by sprinting from the front and trusting his mightily strong legs in the wind to keep him away
“We saw Ganna going really full gas in the last climb
we caught him 900 metres to go,” he said
and then Simo [Consonni] did just a fantastic lead-out
There was little GC action in the day with Tadej Pogačar (UAE Team Emirates) and those looking to challenge him for pink just wanting to stay safe in the finale
There were issues for Ben O’Connor (Decathlon AG2R La Mondiale)
who hit the deck on a wet descent but finished well in the bunch without injury
and third-place Dani Martínez (Bora-Hansgrohe)
but the Colombian was well within the 3km mark so received the same time as the leader
The only man to move up in the top five was Cian Uijdtebroeks (Visma-Lease a Bike)
jumping one spot from fifth to fourth past Einer Rubio (Movistar) thanks to a bonus second gained at an intermediate sprint
The longest stage of the Giro d’Italia so far in 2024 saw a hesitant start out of Acqui Terme before Francisco Muñoz (Team Polti Kometa) got the attacks started and formed a breakaway alongside Stefan de Bod (EF Education-EasyPost) and Lilian Calmejane (Intermarché-Wanty)
Ganna got involved and jumped to the three leaders but after prompting Soudal-QuickStep to ramp up the pace behind and with 163km to go
he said his goodbyes and allowed his fellow escapees to build a gap
their advantage ballooned out past the five-minute mark and wasn’t really challenged until the race closed in on the first intermediate sprint to Calizzano
The sprinters got into action with Merlier taking the maximum remaining points behind the break and strengthening his hold on the ciclamino jersey but important to note was Milan saving himself and opting not to sprint for points as he had done yesterday
But there was no surprise break from the fast men as there was on stage 3
with Visma-Lease a Bike coming to the front through Jan Tratnik and starting to set a tough pace 106km from the line
Kooij was showing his hand and the Slovenian’s pace soon put Fabio Jakobsen (DSM-Firmenich PostNL) and Fernando Gaviria (Movistar) into difficulty and out the back
Merlier was even off the back before getting back in on the descent
Jakobsen similarly found his way back to the peloton thanks to work from his team but Visma had forced their rivals to burn a potential match for the finish
Calmejane dropped back to the peloton after his work was done over the climb as his third day in the break out of four saw him move up to second in the King of the Mountains classification
As the wearer of the maglia rosa Pogačar is the only man ahead of him
the Frenchman will have his second day in the blue jersey tomorrow
This left Munoz and De Bod out in front to continue the break
wet downhill run off the only categorised climb of the day
the Colle del Melogno (7.5 km à 4.8%)
Ben O’Connor (Decathlon AG2R La Mondiale) went down with several teammates as did Matteo Trentin (Tudor) and Biniam Girmay (Intermarché-Wanty)
Girmay looked to have sustained a leg injury before gingerly remounting
but he crashed hard again a few kilometres later onto his other side and unfortunately had to abandon the race
the peloton headed through Savona and turned right
which put the race onto the traditional Milan-San Remo course heading south down the picturesque Ligurian coast
it was without the prospect of the big crescendo to come
Only a chase of the leading duo’s 2-minute advantage and the Capo Mele remained
Uijtdebroeks mopped up the singular bonus second left from the Savona intermediate sprint but there was little more GC action in the day
Lidl-Trek moved up and took control during much of the flat run towards Andora
navigating many of the tricky roads which we see at La Classicissima in March
knowing how important safety is in a hectic finale
Muñoz and De Bod’s advantage dipped below one minute inside the final 20km as the pace started to ramp up
Jayco AlUla then took over from Trek alongside a recovered DSM squad
The gap continued to melt away as the tension rose and sprint teams started swapping over for the lead but Lidl-Trek were the constant until the breakaway was finally done with 4.5km to go at the foot of the final climb
Ganna didn’t wait long before he exploded off the front in a big attack
The likes of Danny van Poppel (Bora-Hansgrohe) and Filippo Fiorelli (VF-Bardiani CSF-Faizanè) tried to bridge to the Italian
but Ganna was too strong for a solo rider to make the difference
The Ineos rider crested the climb and started the downhill run to the line but Trek were finally making enough of an impression to reel him
Consonni and Milan reached their compatriot before the sprints were launched and the Lidl-Trek big man paid back his teammates' work throughout the day
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during which time he also wrote for Eurosport
Prior to joining the team he reported on races such as Paris-Roubaix and the Giro d’Italia Donne for Eurosport and has interviewed some of the sport’s top riders in Chloé Dygert
he spends the majority of his time watching other sports – rugby
Stage 4 of Giro d’Italia 2024 took the riders from Acqui Terme to Marina di Andora located in the Liguria part of the Italian Riviera
Acqui Terme is known for its healing hot sulphur springs
The 190-kilometer route included one Category 3 climb mid-stage and was expected to culminate in a sprinter battle across the finish line
A four-man group escaped from the main peloton shortly after the start of the stage and quickly established a lead
The group featured Francisco Munoz (Team Polti Kometa)
Stefan de Bod (EF Education-EasyPost-Cannondale)
and Lilian Calmejane (Intermarche-Wanty) who was once again showing great initiative in the early part of this year’s Giro
The peloton was not willing to let the quartet extend their lead because of the presence of Ganna in the group
He was deemed too powerful a rider to hand a significant time advantage
fell back to the main peloton and the remaining three riders continued their breakaway
The trio built a lead of approximately five minutes
In the main peloton the Lidl-Trek and Visma-Lease a Bike teams were in control at the front and set a fast-rolling pace to keep the breakaway trio on a reasonably tight leash
Team Movistar sprinter Fernando Gaviria was finding it hard to keep up with the peloton on the Colle del Melogno climb (category 3; 7.5 km; 4.8%)
Romain Bardet (Team DSM-Firmenich) was also spotted as part of the rearview action
Stage 1 winner Jhonatan Narvaez (Ineos-Grenadiers) crashed with Ethan Vernon (Team PremierTech) with 86 kilometers left of today’s stage.
Lidl-Trek continued to join forces with Team Visma-Lease a Bike at the front of the main peloton to keep the breakaway trio within a manageable distance
the leaders had an advantage of 03:35 minutes
Breakaway-participant Calmejane decided to wait for the chasing peloton
A crash occurred on the wet roads with 68 kilometers remaining
The crash brought down riders from EF Education-EasyPost
Forty kilometers remained and the front duo now had a lead of two minutes
With twenty kilometers left of today’s stage 4 their lead was down to one minute thanks to the hard work from the Lidl-Trek guys at the front of the chasing peloton
Munoz and De Bod were caught with 4.5 kilometers left of the stage
Filippo Ganna launched an attack shortly thereafter for his Ineos-Grenadiers team
Wow what an incredible speed from the Italian fastman
Danny van Poppel (Bora-Hansgrohe) and Andrea Pasqualon (Bahrain-Victorious) tried their luck too
Filippo Fiorelli launched a counterattack.
Ganna fought hard but was caught shortly from the finish line
Olav Kooij (Visma – Lease a Bike) and Jonathan Milan (Lidl-Trek) launched their sprints.
Milan proved the fastest man on the day and is the winner of stage 4 of Giro d’Italia 2024
Alpecin-Deceuninck’s Kaden Groves finished second
while Phil Bauhaus completed the stage podium for Bahrain-Victorious
Kooij finished fourth and yesterday’s stage winner Tim Merlier was fifth across the finish line
In the General Classification Pogacar leads Giro d’Italia 2024 ahead of Geraint Thomas (Ineos-Grenadiers)
“Winning today is a very special sensation for me today
We caught Filippo Ganna with 900 meters to go and his acceleration also helped us in a way
My teammate helped me out in the final and we just had to play our cards right,” Milan explained to Roadcycling.com following the stage
Stay tuned to Roadcycling.com for complete race coverage from Giro d’Italia 2024
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lesser climbing and two time trials shape the 107th edition of the Corsa Rosa
The 2024 Giro d'Italia included two time trials (of 40.6km and 31.2km), 11.6 m of Strade Bianche gravel sections on stage 6 and six mountain top finishes
New to the route this year is the Intergiro sprint
a separate classification of mid-stage sprints to go along the the intermediate sprint that provides points toward the maglia ciclamino
and the time bonus sprints that factor into the general classification
Race organiser RCS Sport has done a deal with UAE Team Emirates to secure the presence of Tadej Pogačar and he will surely be the star of the race in 2024
The 107th edition of the Corsa Rosa starts in Turin on Saturday
May 4 and ends in Rome with a circuit stage around the Colosseum on Sunday
RCS Sport have finally followed other Grand Tour and reduced stage distances to try to make the daily racing more exciting
with only four stages over 200km and many around 160km
The full route was presented in Trento in October during the Gazzetta dello Sport Festival of Sport. 2023 winner Primož Roglič
Peter Sagan and two-time winner Vincenzo Nibali were all presented at the route presentation and liked what they saw
with a climb up to the finish in central Perugia after 40.6km and on stage 14 over a flat 31.2km near the foot of Lake Garda
The mountain finishes start early in the 2024 Corsa Rosa meaning the overall contenders will have to be at their best when they travel to Italy in early May
The first key stage is on stage 2 to Oropa
with other tough days in the mountain on stage 8 to Prati di Tivo in the southern Apennines and to Cusano Mutri inland from Naples on stage 10
with stage 15 finishing at 2385 metres in Livigno
After the second rest day the riders climb the Passo dello Stelvio
the highest point in the 2024 Giro d'Italia at 2758 metres and so the Cima Coppi
Sadly the legendary climb come early in the stage followed by a fast valley ride east for an 11%
2.7km mountain finish at Monte Pana near Santa Cristina in Val Gardena
Stage 17 includes several climbs and finishes on the Passo Brocon
while stage 19 returns to Sappada to no doubt evoke memories of Stephen Roche's attack and overall victory in the 1987 Giro d'Italia
Stage 20 offers a final chance to snatch overall victory with a double climb of Monte Grappa in the Veneto region
The fast descent to the finish could be as decisive as the two climbs
The 2024 Giro d'Italia winner will be crowned like a Roman Emperor in the centre of Rome
after an environmentally unfriendly 550 km transfer to the capital
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Berzano di San Pietro (cat
130.4The 2024 Grande Partenza was revealed in October with Turin and the Piemonte region hosting the opening three stages before the route heads south
The northeast of Italy is a crossroads of Grand Tour racing in 2024
with the area also hosting a stage of the 2024 Tour de France after the Grand Depart in Tuscany
with reports that the 2025 Vuelta a Espana could also start in Piemonte
with stage 1 starting from Venaria Reale north of the city
This is the fourth Giro Grande Partenza in the city
with Ganna the last winner of an individual time trial in 2021
The opening stage coincides with the 75th anniversary of the 1949 air tragedy when a plane carrying Turin's football team
crashed on the Superga hilltop on the outskirts of the city and all 31 people on board died
The 140km stage will climb the Superga climb mid-stage before the Colle Maddalena and a fast descent to the finish in central Turin
The sprinters will have to work for a shot at victory and the first maglia rosa
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the Oropa climb on stage 2 of the 2024 Giro d'Italia(Image credit: RCS Sport)Intermediate sprint
km 161Stage 2 will be the earliest major mountain finish at the Giro d'Italia since the race began in Sicily in 1989 and went up Mount Etna
The Oropa finish also marks the 25th anniversary of Marco Pantani's famous victory on the climb to the sanctuary in 1999
when he dropped his chain at the foot of the climb but blasted past all his rivals
A week later Pantani failed a haematocrit test and was excluded from the race
The Oropa climb is not long or steep at 11.8km and 6.2% but Tom Dumoulin distanced his rivals back in 2017
143.9The sprinters will finally get their chance on stage 3 to Fossano
which last hosted a stage of the Giro d'Italia in 2014 as the start town of stage 13
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Intermediate sprint
130.6The sprinters could also look to stage 4 to Andorra on the Ligurian coast as a second opportunity if they can survive the midstage Colle del Melogno
before the finish could limit the size of any bunch sprint
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Passo del Bracco (cat
157.8Stage 5 to Lucca on the Tuscan coast is also relatively flat with the category 3 Passo del Bracco in the first half
Sprinters would have to survive the late Montemagno climb to contest for the stage win.
164.5Stage 6 from Lucca to Rapolano Terme is more testing
with the second half of the 180km stage in the Chianti hills south of Siena.
The stage covers the Vidritta and Bagnaia dirt roads used in Strade Bianche each spring
plus a new sector near Pievina and an uphill finish in Rapolano Terme
It seems a perfect day for the Classics riders will be a test of bike skills and nerve for the overall contenders
(Image credit: RCS Sport)First intermediate time check: km
34The stage 7 40.6km Foligno to Perugia time trial is an early important stage for anyone targeting the maglia rosa
Lose a minute here and it will be difficult to recover
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the final Prati di Tivo climb of stage 8 of the Giro d'Italia(Image credit: RCS Sport)Forca Capistrello (cat
152Stage 8 ends with the 14.6km climb to Prati di Tivo near the Gran Sasso in Abruzzo
The climb was used in the 2021 Tirreno-Adriatico
with Tadej Pogačar beating Simon Yates to set up the overall victory
181.4Stage 9 takes the Giro peloton to Napoli for the now traditional circuit finish in the hills of the city
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Final climb profile of stage 10 of the 2024 Giro d'Italia to Bocca della Selva(Image credit: RCS Sport)Intermediate sprint
142The riders will enjoy the first rest day on Monday
May 13 in the Naples area before stage 10 starts from Pompeii and its famous Roman ruins that were buried under ash and pumice after Mount Vesuvius erupted on a massive scale in 79 A.D
The 142km stage is short but includes a number of climbs and ends with the 20.9km
4.6% grind to Cusano Mutri and the Bocca della Selva climb
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Pietracatella (cat
172.5The route crosses to the Adriatic coast for the second week
with a sprint stage likely in Francavilla a Mare on stage 11
The category 3 climb early in the stage and some small uncategorized hills just before the finish could make life tough for pure sprinters
161.4Stage 12 to Fano may look flat but includes a series of short steep climbs in the second half of the 193km stage
which seems ideal for a breakaway but also another GC showdown
113.3Stage 13 is as flat as it gets with 179 kilometres and barely a highway overpass to climb before the finish in Cento in Emilia Romagna
(Image credit: RCS Sport)First intermediate time check
23.2The second time trial comes on stage 14
with a flat and fast 31.2km 'cronometro' from Castiglione delle Stiviere to Desenzano del Garda on the southern edge of the lake
It is a time trial for the specialists and the last chance to gain time before the mountains of the final week
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the penultimate climb of stage 15(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the final climb to Mottolino on stage 15 of the 2024 Giro d'Italia(Image credit: RCS Sport)Lodrino (cat
222The high mountains begin on stage 15 and the third Sunday of the race
The 222km stage remains the longest of the 2024 Giro d'Italia despite a route change after Swiss authorities blocked passage across the border to the final climb of Livigno
the third-category climb to Aprica and the first-category Forcola di Livigno are off the route
instead replaced by the fearsome first-category 12.6km Mortirolo and another first-category test up the 15km Passo di Foscagno.
though climbing up the Italian side to the town with a short and very sharp 4.7km ascent with gradients once again hitting well into the double digits
Revised profile for stage 16 of the 2024 Giro d'Italia(Image credit: RCS Sport)Original profile for stage 16(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the Passo di Stelvio(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the Monte Pana(Image credit: RCS Sport)Giogo di Santa Maria/Umbrailpass (Cima Coppi)
206The riders will spend the second day at altitude in Livigno
Stage 16 is 202km and starts with the Passo dello Stelvio
Having the Cimas Coppi so close to the start is a pity but will still hurt
The stage then descended into the valley and across to the Val Gardena dolomites for the climb up the little-known Passi di Pinei and up further to Val Gardena
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the Passo Brocon (Albergo) ascent(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the Passo Brocon (from Tesino) the final climb of stage 17(Image credit: RCS Sport)Passo Sella (cat
159Stage 17 is arguably the tappone of the 2024 Giro d'Italia and so the Queen stage
The 159km ride starts immediately with the Passo Sella and then climbs the Passo Rolle and then the high plain Passo Brocon twice via a nasty loop
The middle third of the 10.9k climb is especially hard
with a gradient of 10.5% for three kilometres
131.5RCS Sport have put a long descent and so expected sprint finish at the end of stage 18 to Padua but the mountains return on stage 19 for the final GC battle of the 2024 Giro
Profile of the climb to Sappada(Image credit: RCS Sport)Intermediate sprint
150.8Stage 19 climbs high to Sappada close to the border with Austria
with an extra climb from the village up to Cima Sappada and the Biathlon arena included in the short 157km stage
Roche attacked race leader and fellow Carrera team leader Roberto Visentini and went on to gain 6:50 and the maglia rosa in Sappada
Perhaps the road will inspire similar skulduggery in 2024.
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Profile of the Monte Grappa ascent(Image credit: RCS Sport)Muro di ca 'del Poggio (cat
163.6Stage 20 is over 184km and includes two climbs of Monte Grappa
which overlooks the Vento plains and remembers the many lives lost in the First World War and the many members of the Italian resistance who were killed at the end of World War II when Germany occupied Italy.
The stage also passes through San Martino di Colle Umberto to remember Ottavio Bottecchia on the hundredth anniversary of his Tour de France victory. It climbs Monte Grappa from the Treviso side and Semonzo, with riders facing an 18.1km climb on the nearly constant 8% military gradients and sweeping hairpins.
(Image credit: RCS Sport)Intermediate sprint, km. 68Intergiro bonus sprint, km. 96.5Time bonus sprint, km. 106Whoever is in the maglia rosa after the final summit finish will surely be crowned the overall winner of the 2024 Giro d'Italia the following day in central Rome.
The European Senior Chess Championship 2023 will take place from May 25 to June 4 in Acqui Terme
The event will be played in two age categories: 50+ and 65+
with separate open and women’s sections
The Championships will be played in 9 rounds of the Swiss System
The time control will be 90 minutes for 40 moves followed by 30 minutes for the rest of the game with an addition of 30 seconds per move starting from move 1
According to the ECU regulations if there are less than 9 women participants in one age group the tournament merges with the respective open category
with separate prizes for the best-ranked women players
The playing venue of the event will be Acqui Terme Conference Centre
The event is open to all players who have reached the age of 50 and 65 (by December 31st of the year in which the tournament commences) and represent National federations that are listed as ECU members
There is no limit of number of participants per federations
and players can register regardless on their title or rating
The registration deadline is 14th of May 2023
The total prize fund of the Championship is 10.000 EUR
The Winners of the event will become European Senior Chess Champions 2023 of the respective category
the top 3 players from each category of the European Senior Championship 2023 are qualified with personal rights (free board and lodging) to the World Senior Championship 2024
Any change of regulations is a FIDE matter
Contact information:Tournament Director, FIDE International Organizer – Cristina Pernici Rigo Via Venezia 3/c, 38062 Arco (TN) Italy Tel.: (+39) 327 4962713 Mail: info@arcoworldchess.com Offical website: https://www.scaccomattissimo.com/ecu-senior-2023
European Senior Chess Championship 2023 – Official invitation
Galina Strutinskaia and Natalia Titorenko win bronze medals.
The 30th edition of the FIDE World Senior Championship began in Assisi
The country is hosting this event for the eighth time
organized by IO/IA Cristina Pernici Rigo from ArcoWorldChess
attracted 345 players from 53 national federations battling for the titles of World Champion in the categories Open 50+
FIDE council approved a decision of the FIDE EVE commission that female players will play together in the Open section but will get separate women’s prizes and also are entitled to the Open prizes
This year the prize fund of the championship hit record-high € 37,000
a brief opening ceremony attended by FIDE President Arkady Dvorkovich
Arkady Dvorkovich made the first ceremonial move in the game between GM John Nunn (ENG) and FM Sameer Sursock (LBN)
The event brought together several former and current Senior World Champions::
The championship is officiated by the chief arbiter IA Gerhard Bertagnolli (Italy)
As many as thirty games will be broadcast daily on the internet
The top-seed players are the well-known grandmasters Zurab Sturua (GEO
Julio Santos from Portugal (pictured above)
who celebrated his 92nd birthday on October 15
is the oldest participant in the 30th World Senior Championship
Official Website: scaccomattissimo.com/assisi-2022-en
Complete results: chess-results.com/tnr691291.aspx?lan=1&art=0&flag=30
© 2025 FIDE International Chess Federation
stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any way or by any means (including photocopying
recording or storing it in any medium by electronic means)
without the written permission of FIDE International Chess Federation
is a robust test of anyone’s appetite – especially a vegan like our writer
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If you venture out on to the cobbled streets of Acqui Terme between the hours of one and three in the afternoon
you’d be forgiven for thinking the town had been evacuated due to some dreadful contagious disease
the only sound coming from the sulphur spring that gushes out of a fountain in the piazza in little puffs of steam
The town folk have not been wiped out by an unprecedented bout of bubonic plague
And lunch is not an activity the Piedmontese take lightly
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Piedmont is a region of northwest Italy that remains relatively unknown
It played a key role in the Napoleonic wars and later in the country’s unification
which saw Turin become Italy’s first capital city
Italy’s first cinema and most notably Nutella – is known more for its industrious spirit
was created accidentally by Piedmontese pastry maker Pietro Ferrero in 1946
Owing to cocoa shortages following the war
The Ferrero factory in Alba is notoriously secretive about its headquarters
but it’s said that the aroma of chocolate can be smelled from over a mile away
Turin and its chocolate history is worth exploring
but hire a car to uncover Piedmont’s real hidden treasures – most of them edible
View image in fullscreenPiazza the action: the main town square of Acqui Terme
Photograph: Argalis/Getty ImagesWe flew to Milan and hired a Fiat Punto
to drive to the tiny village of Cortemilia
stopping in Acqui Terme for a coffee to break up the three-hour journey
Once you get off the autostrada the hills open up into a panoply of vineyards and verdant stretches of rolling
gold-flecked countryside responsible for some of Italy’s finest wines – Barbaresco
Autumn is when Piedmont comes to life – the sun is still warm and chestnut groves and pumpkin crops adorn the fields so they look like patchwork quilts of bronze and orange
Occasionally you’ll pass a procession of white-truffle hunters hot on the trail of a gigantic pig snuffling the ground in search of the prized tubers
We arrive in Cortemilia, self-styled capital of hazelnuts, and head straight to La Corte di Canobbio
a boutique hotel and purveyor of all things sweet and nutty
turned down an invitation to cook for the Queen after discovering it was a group invitation and not a one-to-one audience with Her Majesty
but his three daughters serve us a selection of nut meringues
caramelised hazelnuts and hazelnut ice cream
with their signature moist hazelnut cake in a doggy bag for later
or the Ugly Duckling as it is known to English ex-pats
This local gastronomic haunt is tucked away on a side street in the village of Pezzolo Valle Uzzone
which has two post offices and not much else
It is not somewhere to come on a full stomach
I recently became vegan – not a dietary choice that goes down particularly well in these parts – so after a few weak protestations I am coerced into eating five courses of buttery local delicacies
Veganism will have to wait until I’m back on British soil
Between each course we are joined by the restaurant’s owners
Carla is a pioneer of the slow food movement that originated in Piedmont and is now championed by the likes of Jamie Oliver and Raymond Blanc
With each course he presents us with a new bottle of full-bodied red
popping each cork with a theatrical flourish
which he follows with a good deal of gesticulating
sniffing and finally – inevitably – a swig from a glass
He assures us this is to check the wine’s “quality”
View image in fullscreenBlack magic: the vineyards of Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are a Unesco World Heritage Site
Photograph: AlamyGiovanni owns his own vineyard and the following day is his annual grape harvest
We arrive at the crack of dawn and are immediately handed a pair of secateurs and ordered to get to work
Having geared myself up for more of a bystander role
it dawns on me that I have no idea what I’m doing
so I find the furthermost vine and lurk around eating my body weight in grapes
Throughout the morning truckloads of chattering locals and family members pitch up to help with the harvest while Giovanni zips around the maze of vines on a dinky tractor
picking up the full grape buckets and depositing them at the bottom the hill
We are finished in under an hour and the atmosphere is festive
The harvesters congregate on the veranda for a bracing mug of “tea” – which is
extremely diluted coffee and half a pot of sugar
The Italians may be connoisseurs of many things
but tea is a concept they have yet to grasp
Grape picking is followed by a traditional harvesters’ lunch at Giovanni’s home which
and I can only tell I’m being addressed when I hear “la vegano” shouted in my direction followed by loud tutting
exhausted and stuffed full of food and Giovanni’s homegrown wine
Noli’s promenade is lined with peach-coloured baroque houses nestled against a medieval wall – and as you walk along the promenade the air is thick with the smell of calamari
The August crowds have dispersed and the beach is gloriously empty apart from local families having Sunday lunch picnics
but the colour is an astonishing cobalt blue
crystal clear on the surface and as you dive under and open your eyes it softens to a light turquoise
I am that person who brings goggles to the beach
Just as I’m about to doze off for a late afternoon nap the heavens open and as hot rain begins to fall thick and fast we run for cover into the old town and wolf down one final ice cream before the long journey back to Milan
That is the beauty of Piedmont; it is myriad holidays in one. Depending on your mood or predilection, you can drive to Lake Maggiore for a picnic
And you can go to the beach in Finale Ligure in the morning and ski in Sestriere in the afternoon – perhaps not the same afternoon
There’s a richness that underpins this entire region – whether in culture
food – that will cling to your soul long after you leave
This is the archive of The Observer up until 21/04/2025
The Observer is now owned and operated by Tortoise Media
the 100th anniversary of the priestly ordination of the Venerable Msgr
Founder of the Missionary Sisters of Mary Help of Christians
incardinated in the ancient diocese of Acqui Terme
presided over by the Bishop of Acqui Terme
The church was attended by civil authorities
numerous faithful and compatriots of Venerable Bishop Ferrando
along with numerous Missionary Sisters of Mary Help of Christians from different communities
the Bishop recalled the venerable figure of Bishop Ferrando and his indomitable missionary spirit that always inspired him
That good that he had always lavished on the most needy and dispossessed in lands such as India now returns and is abundantly poured out in his homeland and beyond
relief and charitably spreading the word of God
As a series of celebrations are initiated to commemorate the centenary of Bishop Ferrando's priestly ordination
joyfully remembering his life and holiness
one continues to pray that he may soon be elevated to the honors of the altars as Blessed
to further inspire his spiritual daughters and intercede for us all
The Religious Institute of the Missionary Sisters of Mary Help of Christians (MSMHC
from its acronym in English) is the 12th group of the Salesian Family
to overcome the difficulties of aid of all kinds
which grew so numerous that it is now present in Europe
working in 190 centers in India and 25 in other countries
and self-sacrifice their apostolate of prayer and charity
persevering in the missionary evangelization of their founder
ANS - “Agenzia iNfo Salesiana” is a on-line almost daily publication
the communication agency of the Salesian Congregation enrolled in the Press Register of the Tibunal of Rome as n 153/2007
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Salesian Bishop and founder of the Missionary Sisters of Mary Help of Christians
was born in Rossiglione (province of Genoa and diocese of Acqui Terme) on 28 September 1895
Today is thus the 125th anniversary of his birth
Stefano Ferrando attended schools with the Salesians
and was fascinated by the life of Don Bosco
He forcibly interrupted his studies at the outbreak of the First World War
he left for the Salesian missions in the North East of India
where he became one of the great pioneers of the Salesian missionary epic in that vast region
In 1934 he was appointed bishop of the Diocese of Krishnagar by Pius XI
which will become the center of all his fruitful apostolic and evangelizing activity for the next 35 years
His apostolate was characterized by the Salesian style: joy
love for the poor inspire many to convert and to request Baptism
He rebuilt the great Cathedral and the mission buildings
The devotion to Mary Help of Christians and Don Bosco spread
He undertook to ensure that the Indians became the first evangelizers of their land
he started the foundation of the Missionary Sisters of Mary Help of Christians (MSMHC)
aggregated to the Salesian Family on 27 June 1986
after taking part in the work of the Council
the elderly missionary bishop retired to the Salesian house in Quarto (Genoa)
Pope Francis recognized his heroic virtues by declaring him Venerable
Jonathan Milan took Round 2 of the Giro d’Italia sprinters’ summit on Tuesday after coming runner-up to Tim Merlier on Monday
It was Milan’s second career Giro stage triumph
Like Tadej Pogačar and Geraint Thomas on Monday
Filippo Ganna almost stole the fastmen’s thunder with a late attack
The road tilted up from the start in Acqui Terme
with a carbuncle–Milan-San Remo’s Capo Mele–just before the line in Andora
An intriguing finish for stage 4 of the #Giro
with the riders tackling the famous Capo Mele just four kilometers from the line
The action starts in a couple of minutes. pic.twitter.com/zKG4UnfnKB
— Soudal Quick-Step Pro Cycling Team (@soudalquickstep) May 7, 2024
The day’s breakaway was at first a quartet with Filippo Ganna
Lilian Calmejane seems determined to amass King of the Mountains points in this edition
even though it’s likely that a GC rider will win the category
and he was in the remaining trio to take the maximum points atop Cat
Another competition in play on Tuesday was the ciclamino points jersey
with Tim Merlier and Milan tied at the top of table
Merlier took four points at the intermediate sprint in Calizzano
Maglia ciclamino @MerlierTim has extended his points classification lead after the intermediate sprint in Calizzano.#Giro #WayToRide
Photo: @GettySport pic.twitter.com/Etmdet1bst
— Soudal Quick-Step Pro Cycling Team (@soudalquickstep) May 7, 2024
who was third on Monday and famously won a stage in 2022
He became the sixth rider to abandon the 107th edition
Olav Kooij’s Visma-Lease a Bike and Milan’s Lidl-Trek were the engines in the peloton
the field was split into a few pieces for around a half hour
The race rolled along the Ligurian Coast along the same roads taken in Milan-San Remo
The remaining two escapees were swept up just before the Capo Mele
Ganna attacked and took a handful of seconds into the final 3 km
Lidl-Trek brought him back with 500 meters remaining
while Kooij was on his man Christophe Laporte’s wheel
but it was Kaden Groves who claimed that side
Milan took over the points jersey from fifth-place Merlier
Wednesday’s route from Genova to Lucca is complicated by a Cat
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