By Gabriele Di Donfrancesco | December 9
The village of Anguillara Sabazia on Lake Bracciano
The oldest relics discovered in the area date back 8,000 years
Francesco Falconi stood at the edge of Lake Bracciano
a volcanic depression filled with crystalline water and surrounded by bucolic wooded hills and ancient Italian villages
“This is where I used to dive into the lake,” Falconi
a lawyer who grew up in one of those villages
pointing to a rock on the lake’s periphery
and you would probably wake up in the nearest emergency room
In 2017, Lake Bracciano, a basin of around 22 square miles, faced an existential crisis. It started to dry up as a local utility, the Acea Group, diverted its waters to quench the thirst of the Italian capital during a severe drought
Residents of the surrounding villages were able to stop the water company from draining the lake
they are bringing the company to court for environmental crimes
The trial could set a precedent throughout Europe
by creating more public awareness about environmental crimes that involve water use and drainage
It could inspire other small communities to fight to safeguard their natural havens and force big cities to find new solutions to deal with their water needs
and terrible water management are creating a recurring state of crisis
Lake Bracciano serves as an emergency water reservoir for Rome
The city meets two-thirds of all its water needs by tapping into the Peschiera springs at the base of Mount Nuria
These founts are very resilient to occasional droughts
Other sources are smaller and dry up faster
are steadily declining due to climate change
Gabriele Di Donfrancesco is an Italian freelance journalist based in Rome. His work has also been published in La Repubblica, Euronews,... Read More
the elevation of the water surface of Lake Bracciano fell by five feet as Acea kept tapping into the basin
It is normal for the surface of the lake to fluctuate between a height of 535 and 538 feet above sea level
but five feet over 22 square miles adds up to a lot of water; the loss was enough to disrupt nearly everything around the lake
Stairs had to be built for people to disembark because of the shallow waters
And even after Acea stopped collecting water
The water surface fell by six-and-a-half feet in total
The sight of the shoal between the lake’s normal shore and its new
shrunken state was ominously reminiscent of the Aral Sea
the enormous lake lying between Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan
which almost disappeared due to the deadly combination of increased human thirst and climate change
“The lake never goes down [below] a certain threshold,” Graziarosa Villani says
Villani is the president of the committee of local citizens that managed to save Lake Bracciano
thanks to the quick mobilization of scientists and lawyers
The group pressured the regional government
but the “Cassazione,” the highest Italian court
the people of Lake Bracciano were up against two giants: Acea
the local private company providing water to the region in a de-facto monopoly situation
Acea could draw from Lake Bracciano as long as the water surface did not drop under a certain level
to ensure that the basin did not enter a dangerous downward spiral
“But Acea did not stop there and went even further,” Villani says
“Who knows what would have happened without our intervention?”
Villani was represented in court by Falconi
a historic village of 19,000 perched on a hill that slopes gently into the lake
Falconi now represents Villani and her group in a second trial born out of the first complaint
private citizens can file a complaint with the authorities to start a criminal investigation that might lead to a criminal trial
deputy public prosecutor Delio Spagnolo is charging the chairman of Acea's board
with causing an “environmental disaster” by negligently collecting more water than permitted
the public institutions would not have started any investigations by themselves,” Falconi explains
“environmental disaster” is a type of crime that applies to individuals
or companies that cause an irreversible or conspicuous alteration in the balance of a protected ecosystem
It carries a maximum sentence of up to 15 years and pecuniary sanctions
in Europe—that a company has been sued not for polluting the waters
Winning the case could set an important precedent
It would show how communities can find a way to reinforce water protection policies to keep their basins healthy for future generations
Climate change will make what happened to Lake Bracciano a more common problem in Europe
Lake Bracciano has a peculiar status under EU and Italian law
Along with the nearby smaller Lake Martignano
It is also a special protection area and a special area of conservation according to EU environmental directives
It falls into a network of protected European sites called Natura 2000
The EU directives and the Italian law all acknowledge the need to keep water bodies “in good health.” This concept involves respecting their “ecological flow.” The water level should be high enough to ensure biological life can continue
But the EU cannot inspect water bodies and leaves the onus of environmental monitoring to its member states
Though Lake Bracciano is a Natura 2000 site
the EU is not able to directly help protect or defend it
Acea was once a municipal company but has since gone public and is now only partially owned by the municipality of Rome
the company also operates in the energy and waste management sector
The board of the company now includes representatives of companies like Suez
Acea runs contracts in other parts of the world as well
Acea did a great job cleaning the lake from the sewage of nearby towns,” Falconi admits
the company that contributed to keeping Lake Bracciano clean has almost destroyed it
Even though the local community acted quickly
an ecologist who testified in court about Acea’s alleged wrongdoing
says Lake Bracciano has irreversibly lost part of its rich ecosystem
but it would be to a different equilibrium
Other species will take over the ecological void left by the aquatic plants and algae that naturally filtered the lake
Since these species can only survive at certain water heights
they were virtually destroyed when their delicate habitats disappeared with the water
but it got severely damaged,” Azzella says
The last decade has been hard on Lake Bracciano
This type of volcanic basin depends on rainwater
Its water levels had remained stable over the years
“That is why the company should have protected the resource and not wasted it,” Azzella says
Acea loses large percentages of the water it collects and distributes through leaks in its distribution network
it leaked up to 45 percent of all the water in the province of Rome
No third party or regional authority has ever checked the accuracy of the figures released by Acea
The people of Lake Bracciano argue that repairing the leaks alone could solve the recurrent water crisis and ease the pressure on the regional water sources
“You cannot think anymore that there will always be new water
and the lake has not recovered,” Azzella says
the lake is still three feet lower than its past healthy average
“It might never revert to its previous equilibrium,” explains Giampietro Casasanta
a researcher at the Italian National Research Council and a resident of Anguillara
Casasanta says his research shows that such a sudden water loss from the lake would not have occurred due to natural climatic and weather fluctuations alone
data about water levels is often publicly available
the docks of Lake Bracciano have physical water scales
Historical data about precipitation are uploaded online as part of a grid of rain gauges connected to the SCIA
the National System for the Elaboration and Diffusion of Climate Data
Acea knew that the basin was suffering from the effects of climate change; after all
it had released public documents in the months before the crisis showing those effects
But after the water levels of Lake Bracciano became a public controversy
even accusing the owners of gardens and structures along the shoreline of causing the crisis by “stealing” water
the Ministry of Environment and Energy Security is the only institution allowed to ask Acea for compensation
This new trial could result in a fine for breaking environmental law
but it would not formally constitute compensation for the environmental damage
The Italian legal system is extremely slow
The Acea criminal trial is predicted to last several years
and in November it entered the hearing stage
with both parties presenting scientific evidence
The company is expected to trivialize the damage done to the ecosystem in an attempt to reduce its liability
the community of Lake Bracciano feels that science is on its side
Community members hope their work will inspire other communities in Europe to follow their steps in defending local waters
it will have enormous consequences,” Falconi says
“It will set the legal precedent for other communities to fight.”
Editor's note: This article was developed with the support of Journalismfund Europe
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we promise our coverage will be understandable
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I’m curious about how much water goes to waste in Rome due to over 2,500 public water spigots (nasoni) than spout water 24/7/365
Surely they could be retrofitted with faucets to only provide water solely on demand
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There have been around a hundred interventions by the fire brigade since midnight due to dangerous branches
A new storm hit Rome and its province last night
About one hundred interventions were carried out by the local police in the capital city
especially in the eastern quadrant of Rome
among the areas most affected by the bad weather
there was a reduction in the carriageway on Via del Foro Italico
between Via dei Campi Sportivo and Via Salaria
due to a fallen tree in the direction of San Giovanni
with officers from the Parioli group on site for traffic services
Via dell'Appia Pignatelli was also closed from Vicolo della Basilica to Via Appia Antica due to a tree that fell onto the carriageway
Another tree fell during the night on Via Appia Nuova
There were about a hundred interventions by the fire brigade in Rome and the province starting from midnight for dangerous trees and branches
The areas most affected within the capital were in via della Batteria di Porta Furba
interventions are still underway to clear the streets of fallen trees in Albano Laziale
Two more trees fell last night in the Municipality of Anguillara Sabazia
in viale Belloni and at kilometer 25 of via Braccianese
the Carabinieri of the Bracciano company and the Civil Protection operators intervened
Road traffic was suspended in both streets
The military took care of traffic management
while the Civil Protection intervened to remove the trees
At the moment there are no injuries reported
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people navigated the Mediterranean Sea using technologically sophisticated boats
2024 in the open-access journal PLOS ONE by Juan F
Gibaja of the Spanish National Research Council
Many of the most important civilizations in Europe originated on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea
communities clearly traveled and traded across the water
as evidenced by watercraft in the archeological record and the presence of settlements on coasts and islands
Gibaja and colleagues provide new insights into the history of seafaring technology through analysis of canoes at the Neolithic lakeshore village of La Marmotta
Excavation at this site has recovered five canoes built from hollowed-out trees (dugout canoes) dating between 5700-5100BC
Analysis of these boats reveals that they are built from four different types of wood
and that they include advanced construction techniques such as transverse reinforcements
One canoe is also associated with three T-shaped wooden objects
each with a series of holes that were likely used to fasten ropes tied to sails or other nautical elements
along with previous reconstruction experiments
a conclusion supported by the presence at the site of stone tools linked to nearby islands
The authors describe these canoes as exceptional examples of prehistoric boats whose construction required a detailed understanding of structural design and wood properties in addition to well-organized specialized labor
Similarities between these canoes and more recent nautical technologies support the idea that many major advances in sailing were made during the early Neolithic
The authors suggest there may be more boats preserved near La Marmotta
The authors add: “Direct dating of Neolithic canoes from La Marmotta reveals them to be the oldest in the Mediterranean
offering invaluable insights into Neolithic navigation
This study reveals the amazing technological sophistication of early agricultural and pastoral communities
highlighting their woodworking skills and the construction of complex vessels.”
In your coverage please use this URL to provide access to the freely available article in PLOS ONE: https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0299765
Citation: Gibaja JF, Mineo M, Santos FJ, Morell B, Caruso-Fermé L, Remolins G, et al. (2024) The first Neolithic boats in the Mediterranean: The settlement of La Marmotta (Anguillara Sabazia, Lazio, Italy). PLoS ONE 19(3): e0299765. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0299765
Funding: The research has been carried out in the collaboration agreement between the Museo delle Civiltà and the Spanish Scientific Research Council (centres in Barcelona IMF-CSIC and Rome EEHAR-CSIC) and the National Accelerators Centre (CNA) in Seville
Several projects have resulted from this collaboration funded by the Ministry of Science and Innovation and State Research Agency of Spain
and Ministry for University and Research of Italy: PID2020-112513RB-I00/AEI/10.13039/501100011033
PICT-2015-2541 and Rita Levi Montalcini project ‘AGER’
10.1371/journal.pone.0299765
The first Neolithic boats in the Mediterranean: The settlement of La Marmotta (Anguillara Sabazia
The authors have declared that no competing interests exist
are not responsible for the accuracy of news releases posted to EurekAlert
by contributing institutions or for the use of any information through the EurekAlert system
Copyright © 2025 by the American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS)
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Valerie Fortney-Schneider returned to her roots in the southern Italy region of Basilicata
central Italy also has an unsung lakes district that is easily accessible and well worth exploring
The three lakes may not have the dramatic alpine backdrop of the northern ones
but they do have a placid ambiance and splendor all of their own
Lake Trasimeno is the fourth largest lake in Italy
It’s laced with waterfront towns and castles
surrounded by sunflower fields and farmland
Three islands shimmer alluringly in the water
and ferries will take you to two of them for lunch or exploring
To the south in the Lazio region is Lake Bolsena
an elliptical crater that is the largest volcanic lake in Europe
A trio of towns sits on the shore and most of the waterfront is undeveloped
The medieval town of Bolsena preserves its antique atmosphere above the lake
another volcanic-formed gem to the south of Lake Bolsena
While Lake Trasimeno can seem brooding and Lake Bolsena a tad sedate
Lake Bracciano embodies the best lake experience to me
It also offers year-round livability as well as affordability
with a milder climate than the northern lakes
Lake Bracciano is just an hour from Rome but is a tranquil world away
The only motors allowed are those of the ferries that connect the three lakeside towns
This ensures not only a peaceful ambiance but a safer environment for kayakers and stand-up paddle boarders who don’t have to contend with jet skis or motor boats
but ferries ply the water among the three towns
An evening out could be a boat trip to Trevignano Romano for sunset drinks and dinner
or a train ride into Rome for a meal and a show
Frequent rail and bus connections whisk you to Rome in an hour for all the cultural events and offerings of the capital city whenever you might like
Lakeside promenades are dotted with shady plane trees
with some cafes strung about to enjoy a drink with a water view
Three towns grace the shore of Lake Bracciano
On the south side of the lake are Bracciano and Anguillara Sabazia
while on the north side is teensy Trevignano Romano
Bracciano with its imposing 15th century castle sits above the lake and has a bustling feel
The town keeps a pleasant time-worn appeal
and the Odescalchi Castle frequently draws celebrity guests and weddings (Tom Cruise was married here)
especially from the upper Belvedere della Sentinella
It takes a bit more effort to enjoy the lake
but there is more than a mile of expansive beach and easy access to water sports here
or just grab an umbrella and chair and lounge with a book
it is a pleasant small city with the train station right in town
Anguillara Sabazia is a stunning sight sitting on its lakeside promontory
The old town streets meander from the quay up the hillside providing a pleasant ascent to the castle ramparts amidst flower-box studded stone streets
while to the right the medieval gateway still beckons into the streets of the old town
popular with commuting Romans who live near the Anguillara train station
but come into town for lake fun on the weekends
Anguillara is big enough to provide all the daily services and amusements you need while retaining a small town feel and appeal with a sense of community
Lakeside restaurants and cafes are perfect for lingering and enjoying the sunshine
but old town eateries attract locals out for a pizza or a traditional trattoria meal at affordable prices
You can still enjoy a pizza and a beer for less than $12 here
Life here is about a sane pace and simple pleasures
with a jaunt to the city whenever you want something more
and walkers take to the country paths of the protected regional nature park right at the town’s doorstep
The tiny undeveloped Lake Martignano attracts those in the know for a swim
and trails lead off into the green-covered hills
Lake Bracciano doesn’t just boast proximity to Rome
It’s also less than an hour from the Mediterranean Sea
the ancient Etruscan land where timeless places like Sutria
and Viterbo (and many more) offer endless exploration opportunities
while the northern lakes are surrounded by alpine peaks
the central lakes are ensconced amidst the rolling hills and classic hill towns we all love about Italy
It’s a wonder this central lakes district isn’t more popular
but its lack of crowds makes it all the more appealing
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White clouds torn by a blue sky are reflected in the still water of Lake Bracciano
I feel like I've ended up in the palette of an impressionist painter
almost as if it doesn't want to disturb the arrival of migratory birds
a picture-postcard promontory dominated by the collegiate church
the setting sun lights up the outline of the Orsini-Odescalchi Castle of Bracciano
I never tire of this oasis of nature and tranquility
In all seasons there is always something new to experience
a new perspective that sparks curiosity and encourages you to return
the second largest basin in Lazio after Bolsena
a depression formed three hundred thousand years ago following the collapse of the magma chamber that fed the Sabatino volcanic district
There is no point in looking for an inflowing river on the map
which were already channeled towards Rome in the first century AD
Let's see how to experience Lake Bracciano in a camper
It is the main town on the lake and the only one to rise in an elevated position, on the hills surrounding the basin. The origins of Bracciano date back to Roman times
but it was in the Middle Ages that the village developed thanks to the influence of the Orsini family
has pleasant corners; and there is no shortage of elegant cafes where you can sit outside
with the Town Hall and the eighteenth-century fountain
often occupied by markets selling objects and typical products
take Via della Collegiata: immediately on the left is the church and convent of Santa Maria Novella
today the Civic Museum and the historical archive
go up to the cathedral dedicated to Santo Stefano
whose current appearance is from the seventeenth century
With its imposing mass the Orsini-Odescalchi Castle It is one of the most suggestive and interesting destinations of Lake Bracciano
Its history is linked to the Orsini family
who had it built around 1475 and lived there until the XNUMXth century
It was then purchased by the Odescalchi family
plan on an hour or even more if you want to visit the various rooms calmly
The tour takes you through the noble apartment
a jewel of Renaissance architecture; then you go up outside to the panoramic tower and the patrol walkways
It is not surprising that numerous international celebrities
have chosen it as the location for their weddings: the manor is in an excellent state of conservation
the views towards the lake truly unparalleled
nestled on a promontory overlooking the lake
It is worth walking through them until you reach the façade of the church of Santa Maria dell'Assunta
built in the 17th century in a dominant position over the village
Continuing your walk you will come across the city walls that enclosed the 15th century tower
From here you go down towards the imposing Palazzo Baronale Orsini
the elegant seat of the Municipality: even without entering you can glimpse the frescoes that decorate the ceilings of the rooms
From here it is a few minutes' walk to the lakeside
a tourist boat takes about two hours to tour the basin
with stops at Trevignano Romano and on the lakeside of Bracciano
The shores of Lake Bracciano offer the opportunity to visit the Historical Museum of the Italian Air Force
one of the most important exhibitions of its kind in the world
Inaugurated in 1977 and completely renovated on the occasion of the centenary of the foundation of the Italian Air Force
the visit route winds through four enormous hangars that house a vast collection of aircraft
It ranges from aircraft in use during the First World War to modern examples
And there is no shortage of extraordinary pieces such as a Garnerin hot air balloon
and one of the first airships of the Italian army
I recommend taking the tour with one of the museum guides
who are generous in revealing news and details on the history of aviation
offering the opportunity to retrace more than a century of history of world conflicts
there is also a large parking lot suitable for campers
The influence of the Orsini family is also tangible here. The fortress is linked to their name, which can be reached on foot with a walk (the last stretch is on a path) that also touches the parish church of the Assunta.But the first thing you have to do when arriving at Trevignano Romano is relaxing on the lakeside
stopping in one of the many bars and stopping at the stalls of the Sunday market in Piazzale del Molo
Then take your time exploring the historic center
a well-kept gem just a few steps from the water
The reference point is Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
with a nice café where you can sit in the shade of the ancient Clock Tower
cross the threshold of the Town Hall: the ground floor houses the Civic Archaeological Museum
Various finds are exhibited here – including cinerary urns
painted vases and jewels – from the Etruscan necropolis of Trevignano
which would prove the existence of a Roman Etruscan centre believed by some to be the ancient Sabatia
It is one of the most important nature reserves of Lazio, and among those that can boast the greatest biodiversity. Established in 1999, the Bracciano Martignano Regional Natural Park protects a very large area spanning three provinces and ten municipalities
It goes from the shores of Lake Bracciano to the beech forestof Oriolo
From the small Lake of Martignano to the forest of Macchia Grande and the Caldara of Manziana
From the 160 meters of altitude of the largest basin to over 600 of Mount Rocca Romana
This corresponds to a very diversified vegetation - from broadleaf forests to wetlands
passing through Mediterranean scrub - and a great variety of species present
also thanks to the ban on the use of motor boats
are a refuge of primary importance for migratory birds
Among the most common species we find herons
There are two railway stations near Lake Bracciano
located along one of the two lines that connect Rome to Viterbo
The Bracciano train station is located a few steps from the town center
The line makes various urban stops including Valle Aurelia (connection with metro line A)
Trastevere (useful stop for the Trastevere district) and Ostiense (metro line B)
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Marian Apparitions Must Always Point to Jesus
Bishop Romano Rossi of Civita Castellana speaks to a reporter July 31
The bishop said that though he has not yet set up a formal commission to evaluate the credibility of Marian apparitions to Gisella Cardia
he is following the alleged supernatural messages and evaluating both their content and spirit
By Carol Glatz • Catholic News Service • Posted August 7
VATICAN CITY (CNS) — The Catholic Church has always been very cautious when it comes to judging reported Marian apparitions
More than 1,500 visions of Mary have been reported around the world
but in the past century fewer than a dozen cases have received church approval as being worthy of belief
Determining the veracity of an apparition is an enormous job that falls to the local bishop
The Vatican Congregation for the Doctrine of the Faith established a set of norms in 1978 to help bishops and guide them in the process of discernment and investigation of reported apparitions and revelations
a series of Marian apparitions in the Diocese of Green Bay
received approval in 2010 — 151 years after the first apparition was reported in 1859
But that’s just half of the nearly 300 years it took the church to approve the apparitions of Our Lady of Laus in France
The process is lengthy because visionaries and witnesses must be questioned and the fruits of the apparitions
the local bishop should set up a commission of experts
moral and spiritual integrity and seriousness of the visionary
and whether the message and testimony are free from theological and doctrinal error
The longer the alleged apparitions last and the more popular an apparition site becomes
the more evidence accumulates — and the longer it takes the church to reach a judgment
When the bishop’s investigation is complete
he can come to one of three conclusions: he can determine the apparition to be true and worthy of belief; he can say it is not true
which leaves open the possibility for an appeal; or he can say that at the moment he doesn’t know and needs more help
the investigation is taken to the national bishops’ conference
If the body of bishops cannot reach a conclusion
who delegates the doctrinal congregation to step in and either give advice
send a commissioner and-or set up a commission to investigate
the bishop remains in charge of the process
An example of a situation in which the country’s bishops requested the Vatican’s doctrinal congregation to intervene is the alleged apparitions at Medjugorje in Bosnia-Herzegovina
The congregation established an international commission in 2010 to investigate the claims of six young people who said Mary appeared to them daily beginning in 1981
and hundreds of thousands of people travel to the small town each year
The church’s approach has been to distinguish between an apparition
and the spiritual consequences among the faithful
That means that in places where an apparition is still awaiting church approval
people can go to the site to pray and receive spiritual gifts
as long as they do not presume the apparition is authentic
The church approaches each claim with the utmost prudence
with rigorous investigation and with the invitation to live out the Gospel rather than follow the apparitions
the church never requires the faithful to believe in the Marian apparitions
because it teaches that public revelation ended with the New Testament
and that no private revelation will add anything essential to the faith
The apparitions and messages are never the same
Mary appeals for people’s conversion and seeks to assure men and women that they are not alone in the world and can depend on God’s loving mercy
Her appearance is never meant to result in her glorification
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Its construction dates back to the late 15th century
but over the centuries the castle has long been the subject of fierce disputes between the most important Roman families
Today it is a popular venue for important events
but above all it is a year-round museum that tells the story of these lands through an important collection of ancient weapons
not to mention the sumptuous decorations and frescoes that dot the entire palace
From the top of the hill on which it is perched it dominates the entire area and offers enchanting views in which the deep blue of the volcanic lake blends with the green of the woods
is a real jewel of medieval architecture that winds all around the magnificent Orsini-Odescalchi castle
Here is a veritable maze of narrow streets surrounded by ancient houses built of lava stone that offer the visitor enchanting views
Also deserving special attention are the 13th-century Cathedral of Santo Stefano
an old defensive bastion now an evocative terrace overlooking the lake
One of the most picturesque places on all of Lake Bracciano is definitely Anguillara Sabazia
This ancient fishing village is perhaps less well known than neighboring Bracciano
but it offers equally picturesque views and vistas
all set in a relaxed atmosphere where you can best enjoy what these lands have to offer
In Anguillara Sabazia there are several beaches where one can find refreshment away from the crowds
but it is above all the historic center that enraptures visitors’ hearts
It is a splendid agglomeration of Romanesque-style architecture including the 16th-century gate and the medieval keep that houses the Museum of Rural Civilization and Popular Culture
is the 18th-century collegiate church of Santa Maria Assunta
while there are numerous archaeological sites around the town
including the Neolithic village found at La Marmotta
the church of Santa Maria Maggiore is believed to have been built on the site of an earlier Etruscan temple
the present building was erected around the year 1000
and its vicissitudes have gone hand in hand with the history of Cerveteri
The church was expanded in 1959 with the addition of a new part that grafts onto the ancient one
The latter is a magnificent example of the Romanesque style
although the façade presents a mixture of different styles since it has long been remodeled over the centuries
Among the most important works preserved inside is the Comatesque-style flooring made by Tuscan artists in the 13th century
which recently became part of the new Cerveteri and Tarquinia Archaeological Park
is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the earliest examples of sites referable to the Etruscan civilization
The Banditaccia necropolis is to date one of the largest in the ancient world
the entire area is crossed by a burial route more than 2 kilometers long
and its origins are traced from the 9th century B.C
In its approximately 400 hectares of extension
the Banditaccia necropolis preserves many thousands of burials
although the fenced-in part that can be visited today covers about 10 hectares and has 400 mounds
onward large mounds with burial chambers dug in the tufa and decorated with motifs inspired by the forms of domestic architecture developed
imposing funerary monuments such as the famous Tomb of the Reliefs are from later centuries
It is located inside the impressive 14th-century Ruspoli Castle and is considered one of the most important places to discover the secrets of Etruscan civilization. The Cerite National Museum houses many artifacts that have come to light from excavations in the area of the ancient city and
one can take a real journey back in time admiring grave goods found in the Sorbo necropolis and then more vases
ceramics and urns dated between the 7th and 6th centuries BC
The museum tour then ends with some objects from the Manganello temple and the Odescalchi collection
which passed into the hands of the Silvestrine congregation in the 1940s
has long hosted boys from war-torn families from all parts of Italy
lodging and education; today its premises are a sought-after destination for conferences and events
Palazzo Altieri is a shining example of 16th-century architecture and its events have followed step by step those of these lands
Construction began at the behest of Giorgio III Santacroce
whose family later passed ownership first to the Orsini and then to the Altieri
Today it houses a museum divided into 14 rooms that showcase ancient paintings and precious collections such as those kept in the gallery of the Popes
which includes portraits depicting successive popes in the history of the Church
Also imposing and particularly impressive is the large park surrounding the palace
which originally served as a hunting garden
created by volcanic eruptions and housing several of Lazio’s most quaint lakeside towns
you’re sure to find plenty of small-town charm
lovely vistas and culinary delights around each one
Lago di Bracciano The volcanic Lago di Bracciano is the eighth largest in Italy and is popular with locals and tourists alike for the beautiful towns that lie along its perimeter
Bracciano the town is dominated by the medieval Castello Orsini-Odescalchi
a fortified papal palace that is well-known for hosting the wedding of Tom Cruise and Katie Holmes
Other charming villages that lie along the lake are Anguillara Sabazia
with quaint cafés along the lakeside promenade
numerous swans that flock to the banks of its river
is a favorite with the alternative crowd for its relaxed vibe
easygoing atmosphere and outdoor concerts in the summertime
being overshadowed by the much larger Lago di Bracciano a few kilometers away
bars and food stands that pop-up during the summer and is perfect for a sunny weekend picnic
The Lago di Bolsena lies north of Rome close to Viterbo
which was likely the location of an ancient Etruscan city
The main towns that lie within proximity of the lake are Bolsena
The imposing Montefiascone Cathedral is a site to behold and the region’s famous Est
wine is produced here by the Falesco winery
Capodimonte instead lies on a tiny peninsula that juts into the lake and has a sheltered harbor
The tiny fishing village Marta is a colorful little spot that is also worth a visit
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lying on the site of an ancient residence of Emperor Domitian
best known for its wine festival that takes place each October
with its famous porchetta and fraschette (typical village eateries)
The Lago di Nemi is the jewel of Lazio. This lake is sometimes referred to as Diana’s Mirror because of a temple complex that honors this ancient goddess of the moon and hunt. It derives its name from Nemi
a quaint town perched above the lake which is famed for its fragoline di bosco
or wild strawberries; Nemi hosts a strawberry festival at the end of spring each year
Nearby lies Genzano di Roma which is famed for its bread and hosts a magnificent flower festival that sees its main thoroughfare paved with an intricate flower carpet each June
Livia Hengel is an Italian-American writer
photographer and traveler with a penchant for la dolce vita and a severe case of wanderlust
she spent her life living around the world in Peru
Turkey and the US before moving back to her city of birth
She is passionate about all things cultural
stirring and beautiful and is happiest when she is contemplating human nature over a glass of wine or wandering off-the-beaten-path in a new city
you can find Livia eating her way through the best restaurants in Rome or keeping up with Instagram
Livia is the author of The HUNT Guide for Rome and also contributes to Spotted by Locals
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This large region contains too many places of interest to fit into one article
so we’ve restricted this piece to the provinces of Viterbo and Rome in northern and western Lazio
Here’s why they should be your next holiday destination
The first reason to visit north and west Lazio is really four: the two large lakes of Bracciano and Bolsena
and the two smaller lakes of Martignano and Vico
Lago di Bracciano is surrounded by the towns of Bracciano, Anguillara Sabazia, and Trevignano Romano, the first two of which can be reached from Rome by train for the price of a couple of cappuccinos. Pay a visit to Odescalchi Castle in Bracciano
walk among the picturesque streets of Anguillara which spill down into the lake
and eat fresh lake fish at one of the many restaurants along the tree-lined waterfront in Trevignano
If you want to feel truly immersed in nature
make a short trip to the neighbouring Lago di Martignano
You’ll need to drive for several minutes along a bumpy dirt road and park your car a walk away from the lake itself
but you’ll be rewarded with a truly peaceful setting
Roughly midway between Bolsena and Bracciano is the smaller Lago di Vico
which is situated in a nature reserve and is arguably the wildest of the four lakes
Comfort-seekers can rent a sun lounger and dine at one of the bars and restaurants on the south side of the lake
but more adventurous visitors can also explore the unspoilt wildlife around the rest of its perimeter
where hazelnut groves abound and farmers bring herds of pigs and cattle down to the water to drink
All the lakes are clean enough to swim in and (unlike many of Italy’s beaches) have plenty of undeveloped public shores where you can put down a towel and stay for free
The beaches of Santa Severa and Santa Marinella
READ ALSO: 13 places in Italy that look like they belong in a fairy tale
The opulent house and gardens of Villa Farnese
Not to be confused with Palazzo Farnese in central Rome where France's embassy to Italy is currently housed
Villa Farnese (confusingly sometimes also called Palazzo Farnese) in Caprarola is a magnificent 16th-century villa with a unique pentagonal shape
Admire the villa’s distinctive spiral staircase
take a walk in its sumptuous rooms decorated in the Mannerist style
which include 500-year-old world atlas frescoes
and stroll among its vast decorative gardens which extend for several acres behind the villa itself
READ ALSO: Italy's best-kept secrets: Ten must-see places
a time when the Catholic Church was beset with conspiracies and intrigue
Lazio’s second city after Rome and the refuge of numerous medieval pontiffs
The city traces its origins back to the pre-Roman Etruscan civilisation
but the buildings and streets in its historic centre date back to the 12th and 13th centuries when it rose to prominence as the “City of the Popes” and briefly became the seat of the papacy in 1257
Walk the scenic streets around the papal palace and take a guided underground tour of the Etruscan tunnels which were enlarged and repurposed as secret passageways in medieval times
and later used as air raid shelters during World War II
The province of Viterbo in northern Lazio is littered with natural hot springs, and few provide a more relaxing experience than Il Bagnaccio
you can luxuriate in the warmth of geothermally-heated sulphur water in several rustic pools fashioned out of white clay
Il Bagnaccio is open till late evening almost year-round
stop by the award-winning Il Babbà pizzeria in the nearby town of Vetralla for some of the best pizza north of Naples
A guide to northern Lazio would be incomplete without mention of Civita di Bagnoregio
a tiny village nestled on top of a volcanic rock that rises abruptly out of the earth like an enchanted kingdom
Romantically dubbed “the dying village” as its exposed tuff-rock sides are highly vulnerable to erosion and other natural forces
the village was saved from extinction by outside investment
and be prepared to share your visit with large crowds if you come during high season
If you don’t have time for a leisurely cooked meal
grab a sandwich made with fresh local produce and a scoop of chilled ricotta “ice-cream” with homemade toppings from the Arco del Gusto
READ ALSO: Ten must-see places within reach of Rome
another village balanced on the plateau of a rocky volcanic outcrop
While its approach is not as picturesque as Bagnoregio’s
with dwellings that seem carved out of the rock face itself perched perilously on its sheer sides
Calcata underwent a revival as a new-age artists’ community in the 1960’s
and while it may no longer be a hippie utopia
you can still find an array of puppet-makers’ dens
and dressmakers shops scattered throughout the village
which serves homemade cake along with tens of varieties of tea
offers spectacular views over the valley directly below
The necropolis and waterfalls of Cerveteri
Visitors wax moderately pleased about Cerveteri’s Cerite Museum
a small repository of Etruscan history in the grounds of a former castle
but they thrill at the nearby Banditaccia Necropolis
whose other-worldly collection of large domed tombs bear a strong resemblance either to the Shire or to Tatooine depending on which universe you prefer to use as your reference point
is an entire city built solely for the purpose of housing corpses
It’s thought that wealthy Etruscans wanted to send their deceased relatives off into afterlife as they had lived in this one
so built them their own town for the purpose
Nature-lovers and adventurers should also seek out Cerveteri’s hidden waterfalls
buried deep in a forest nearby the necropolis
which starts at Cerveteri’s modern cemetery
so bring plenty of food and water and budget several hours for the round trip
Italy is peppered with hundreds of newly-abandoned villages following recent natural disasters
but Antica Monterano has been a ghost town since the 1700s
when it suffered a malaria outbreak and was later sacked by the French army
span thousands of years of history and conjure a haunting atmosphere
To find the site you’ll need to drive several miles down a small winding country road and park in a lot a ¼ mile walk away from the ruins themselves
READ ALSO: Where to go in Italy in 2018: Ten travel ideas off the beaten path
The surreal and dream-like garden of Bomarzo
variously nicknamed the Parco dei Mostri (Park of the Monsters) and Il Sacred Bosco (The Sacred Forest)
was commissioned in the mid-1500s by the nobleman Pier Francesco Orsini
Thought to be expression of grief following the death of Orsini’s beloved wife
the garden’s erratic layout and monstrous statues with cryptic engravings are an outright rejection of Renaissance landscaping convention
Neglected for several centuries after Orsini’s death
it was restored to its former glory following its rediscovery by Salvador Dali and the Surrealists in the 1940s
is best experienced on weekdays during term time or in poor weather when visitor numbers are at their lowest
The city and commune of Acquapendente (“Hanging Water”) is located just outside the confines of the Monte Rufeno Nature Reserve
a wildlife sanctuary managed by the city which spans nearly 3000 hectares and nurtures over 1000 plant species
Aquapendente's sites of interest include the village of Torre d’Alfina with its castle that dates back to the early middle ages
but the most compelling reason to pay the area a visit is the Forest of Sasseto
located at the north end of the Monte Rufeno reserve
With its gnarled oaks and chestnuts and green ferns carpeting the forest floor
it's little wonder that the forest is also known as Snow White's Wood and the Forest of the Fairies
Seek out the neo-gothic mausoleum of former Torre d’Alfina Marquis Edoardo Cahen
who owned the forest and restored the castle in the late 19th century
It you want to see Italy through the eyes of the Romantics
Despite being sacked by French forces in 1495 and hit by a major earthquake in 1971
this Etruscan and Medieval town nestled in the Marta River valley has survived intact to form part of a landscape with all the soft-focus dreaminess of a Lorrain painting
Take in the sculpted Etruscan sarcophagi that line the town’s walkways
visit the (free) archaeological museum and the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore
walk up a small slope to the famed San Pietro Church to look back over the town itself
and finally return to eat at one of the trattorias on a piazza with views out over the valley’s gently rolling hills and San Pietro in the middle distance
Tarquinia was known by the less elegant name of Corneto until 1922
when it rediscovered its Etruscan origins as Tarquinii
It’s hard to find examples of undamaged Etruscan artwork
but the painted tombs of the Monterozzi Necropolis
contain an amazingly well-preserved series of frescoes in full colour
The town is also home to a museum with some of the best Etruscan artifacts outside of Rome
Its medieval centre provides a pleasant setting for a stroll
and if you get tired of museums and culture you can head down to the lido a short distance away
The Greeks and the Romans may have popularised the amphitheatre
but they weren’t the only civilisations to make use of it
Aside from being lovely ancient town well worth a visit in its own right
Sutri contains a charmingly crumbling and overgrown Etruscan amphitheatre beside a series of tombs carved into its large volcanic rock
its hill also conceals a hidden pagan chapel
a “mithraeum” used as a place of worship by members of the ancient cult of Mithras and later converted into a Christian church
this chapel burrowed deep into the rock contains elaborate columns and pews
and if you hold up a light up to the walls you can see paintings that date back to the middle ages
but your ticket comes with an inexpensive guided tour
The ancient structures are all directly on the other side of a main country road across from the town of Sutri and the tombs are visible from the street
so keep an eye out if you’re ever passing though by car
Did we miss any of your favourite places to visit in northern and western Lazio
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In season 5 of the classic television comedy Everybody Loves Raymond
the Barone family matriarch Marie portrayed by actor Doris Roberts announces that she has tucked away enough money to take the entire family to Italy
Her daughter-in-law Debra, played by actor Patricia Heaton
But did Raymond actually fly the entire cast and crew to Europe to film the two episodes titled “Italy”
executive producer and show creator Phil Rosenthal discovered that star Romano had never done any European travel
“I said, ‘Ever been to Europe?’” Rosenthal recalled, according to The Hollywood Reporter
‘I’m not really interested in other cultures.’ Even his own culture (Italian)
and Romano culled situations and incidents from their own marriages and families as material for the comedy
From dealing with PMS in a marriage to the intrusiveness of in-laws
When Romano told Rosenthal he wasn’t really a globetrotter
the showrunner then seized on what he knew was a winner of an episode idea
The cast and crew did indeed film on location in Europe
The two-parter called “Italy” were the premiere episodes of the show’s fifth season and were filmed in July 2000 in the town of Anguillara Sabazia outside of Rome
Rosenthal revealed that it took some persuasion on his part to get CBS to send everyone on the set overseas
“We send [Ray Romano] over to Italy as Ray
and he comes back as [Italian actor] Roberto Benigni — transformed by the food
“After some convincing of CBS and a reluctant Raymond
we filmed two episodes of Everybody Loves Raymond in Rome.”
For her part, show co-star Roberts was clearly fond of the Mediterranean country as she told the Television Academy Foundation: “I’ve been to Italy 21 times in my life.” She explained that when she was told the show would be filming in Italy
So we vacationed before I had to go to work
“It was a wonderful story,” the veteran actor said of the episodes
Rosenthal credited the Italian Raymond episode for breathing life into his idea for a new series
First on PBS in 2015 as I’ll Have What Phil’s Having
Rosenthal went on to perfect his food and travel show concept on Netflix in 2018 as Somebody Feed Phil
now with four seasons available on the streaming giant
“This is what inspired me to make Somebody Feed Phil,” he said of the Everybody Loves Raymond “Italy” episode
“It’s part food and travel but also part sitcom and — to my surprise — today
Since when did embracing other people and other cultures become a liberal cause?”