Louis Thomas speaks with Oltrepò Pavese’s biggest producer about how this sparkling wine region in Lombardy can realise its true potential through “managerial competence” Last week proved to be something of a game changer for this Lombard wine region. The Consorzio Tutela Vini Oltrepò Pavese introduced major changes to how it operates and, most crucially, to the production and labelling of its sparkling wines Much like consorzio director Riccardo Binda Casteggio-born Umberto Callegari also returned to the region leaving a position as worldwide commercial leader of the strategic advisory for Microsoft for the role of chairman and CEO of Terre d’Oltrepò SpA 18 months ago “I decided I wanted to do something good for my homeland,” he explained when speaking with the drinks business in December “We owe it to the land to do something different.” Created from the union of three cooperatives and responsible for around 50% of the region’s wine production with 660 member wineries over 5,000 hectares Terre d’Oltrepò was initially formed in 2008 after the merger of Cantina di Casteggio and Cantina Sociale Intercomunale di Broni the need to change how things operate is the result of what he sees as a prolonged period of mismanagement within the region’s wine industry the area was the richest in Italy thanks to the winemaking opportunities La Versa was what Ferrari Trento is at the moment – making 34 billion lire which was equivalent to around €350 million and two days later the area would be full of them because people were extremely rich.” “But then something changed,” he suggested “People started playing around with bulk wine and bulk speculation Oltrepò Pavese became the bulk warehouse of Italy Terre d’Oltrepò actually acquired the La Versa brand in 2017 Callegari highlighted the decline of Oltrepò Pavese by comparing it to the rather different fortunes of another Lombard wine region so the land price went from €20,000 per hectare to €300,000 today – the opposite happened in Oltrepò.” “Oltrepò had a past which was not the most ethical,” noted Callegari “While the wealth of many was destroyed If you take a winemaker that has the whole value chain they operate at a 2% margin if they’re good If our purpose is to increase the value per hectare and therefore the quality of life for people here 100% of what is processed needs to be what we say it is.” One of the recent scandals to have damaged the region’s reputation was that of Cantina Sociale di Canneto Pavese, which was found to have created more than a million litres of wine adulterated with additives and prohibited grape varieties. A number of arrests were made in connection with the wine fraud in January 2020 “I look at it from a managerial and economical perspective,” said Callegari “The problem is in the operating model: selling bulk in a huge quantity with the tiniest margin a local sparkling red – if it was in France it might do well because they are able to promote something but because it’s in Italy it went down the drain but once they are gone there won’t be any room for Bonarda.” and you have a huge possibility for scaling up – you can go from 0 to 1,500 metres above sea level Everywhere else is in Italy is operating at maximum capacity There is a huge opportunity to grow a fresher style of still Pinot Noir which is extremely pricey around the world It isn’t just the still wines which Callegari believes have fallen behind – Pinot Noir-based metodo classico also needs to make up some ground to come close to competing with other European fizzes “Why did the metodo classico from here never make it abroad Because there’s 200 million bottles of Cava so you miss the volume factor,” he said Oltrepò Pavese produces an extra 30 million bottles which will help to position it in supermarkets but it will be more expensive than Cava or Prosecco DOCG Our industrial plan revolves around this: it’s not driven by our heritage or religion Callegari then offered a hypothetical example of how the region’s abundance of small winemakers restricts “operational leverage”: “If tomorrow the Marriott Hotel said they wanted 200,000 bottles for its hotels most producers could not fulfil that order I think we need a shared operating platform this land should focus on three things: Pinot Noir Terre d’Oltrepò produces its Winged Victory Province of Pavia IGT Rosé “58% of Italian wine is produced by cooperatives there are roughly 498 wine cooperatives in Italy and of that number only eight have revenues surpassing US$100 million which means that the others are suffering – they need private investment but they do not have the structure,” Callegari explained “What we did with Terre d’Oltrepò was create a holding company which operates to generate a profit because the cooperative can’t and that is to attract private investment.” Callegari said that these investments were still “peanuts” and “short-term” focused compared to the structural overhaul which he believes Oltrepò Pavese needs we want to create the biggest area for classic method and possibly rosé in Italy with a business model built on products and services,” he argued “We have an opportunity to attract investment but it has to be within the system.” When discussing examples which Oltrepò Pavese can emulate Callegari did that rarest of things for an Italian and praised their neighbours on the other side of the Alps “A very traditional industry in a very traditional yet creative country like Italy can generate a good system The main difference between Italian and French people is that the French are good at creating systems The only system we have been able to create is Prosecco clever marketing can only go so far in remedying the intrinsic problems you will only end up choking on it,” he said Callegari concluded with a warning about what will happen to Oltrepò Pavese if it doesn’t evolve: “We have been going down the drain for 40 years and now the economy and extreme weather conditions have pushed the system to a point of no return We are using cookies to give you the best experience on our website You can find out more about which cookies we are using or switch them off in settings This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings we will not be able to save your preferences This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again she has written for publications such as Delicious she has written travel guides to Italian wine destinations such as Bologna The signs are there: Oltrepò Pavese is on the so-called ‘45th parallel’ (the imaginary line halfway between the equator and the North Pole that also includes Bordeaux the northern Rhône and Piedmont) and on the map the area even resembles a bunch of grapes This wedge of land is bordered by Piedmont It starts on the plains south of the Po river (Oltrepò Pavese means ‘Pavia’s lands beyond the Po’) and stretches southwards rising up to a lofty 1,725m above sea level The Oltrepò hills enjoy regular breezes – essential for protecting delicate Pinot Nero grapes from humidity – and considerable day-night temperature swings which help to develop the elegant aromas that winemakers strive for there are about 3,000ha of Pinot Nero planted and production of this variety in Oltrepò Pavese represents 75% of Italy’s national output Pinot Nero was first planted here in the mid-19th century by Conte Vistarino great-great-grandfather of the eponymous estate’s current owner Ottavia one of many dynamic younger-generation producers now running Oltrepò wineries She recognises the importance of her 300ha of woodland with its richness of biodiversity Investments at the vast 826ha estate (102ha under vine) include eco-friendly cellar technology and downsized wine production focusing on quality Traditional-method/metodo classico sparkling expressions have always taken centre-stage here and in addition to sparkling wines such as the lemon-fresh the estate produces a wide range of still wines including three Pinot Nero riserva crus (among them the DWWA 2024 Silver medal-winner Pernice 2020) and expressive Riesling from vines on chalky terrain The great variety of soils is key to the quality and character of Oltrepò wines winemakers are able to select grapes from vines planted on clay chalk or gravel-based soils on north- or south-facing plots ‘We have lots of fun here,’ confirms Giulio Fiamberti with characteristic enthusiasm Entertaining tours await at the historic family winery of Giulio Fiamberti in Canneto Pavese His tours are fun, too, with barrel tastings and impromptu blends. Fiamberti’s family has been producing wine for more than 200 years in the picturesque hills of Canneto Pavese This spot is home to Buttafuoco DOC – a rich fruit-filled red made principally with Croatina and Barbera plus Uva Rara and Vespolina (locally known as Ughetta) – and the still frizzante and spumante Sangue di Giuda DOC sweet reds from the same varieties created in 1996 to uphold classic versions of Buttafuoco has a self-imposed protocol calling for three-year ageing and single-vineyard field blends of the traditional grapes and activities that include cookery classes and vineyard treks and remarkable collections of vintage cars and carriages Gerbino is implementing the results of a major project into water stress management His wines include a refined Zero Dosage Pinot Nero and reds combining Pinot Nero with Croatina and Barbera Start the day with a swim in the salt-water biopool overlooking vines at Prime Alture After breakfast on the terrace or in the light-filled restaurant it’s just a 10-minute drive to Tenuta Frecciarossa Meet the owners and stroll through the estate accompanied by their good-natured dogs See farm animals and a great variety of plant life as well as the vines Stay for lunch at the delightful farmhouse perhaps risotto with home-grown vegetables paired with the estate’s metodo classico Riesling stopping to enjoy views over the stunning Tenuta Travaglino estate from its Big Bench viewpoint continue past Montalto Pavese and its hilltop castle before reaching Rocca de’ Giorgi where the area’s first Pinot Nero was planted dive into the heritage of Oltrepò Pavese and taste different renditions of the Pinot Nero grape Taking a 20-minute drive north to Canneto Pavese, stop first at Casa del Buttafuoco Storico wine bar for a tasting of traditional Buttafuoco wines, then for dinner at Ristorante Bazzini Try typical braised beef-filled ravioli and cheeses from Il Boscasso here with wine from the long list of exclusively Oltrepò Pavese labels where you can open a bottle from the in-room wine fridge and enjoy the night air on the patio where the atmosphere is of a bucolic idyll chickens and bees contribute to the biodiversity Owner Valeria Radici-Odero aims for sustainability and fruit and vegetables at the estate restaurant where fallow deer roam the park and wine cellars can be found in a 12th-century monastery owned by the same family since 1868 Riesling Renano – rather than the less complex Riesling Italico – was introduced in the 1970s and shows its ageworthiness in wines such as the Campo della Fojada riserva Oltrepò Pavese is about 60km south of Milan Linate airport