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One feels cooler simply for patronizing La Secina
The architecture of the restaurant seems to evoke a perpetual party vibe
individual lights dangle on long lines amid a mesh of vines that gives the cavernous space a homey
The teal and orange on the wall are bright and clean
The stenciled restaurant logo and exhortations of “bienvenidos” feel as organic as they do well designed
picnic tables radiate outwards from a long
Upstairs a dedicated booze closet services a patio that looks out upon a beautiful church across the street
live blues bands play everything from Albert Collins to Muddy Waters to Robert Johnson
As hip as La Secina obviously aims to feel
it’s just as clear that its owners take the food they serve very seriously
one encounters a team of furrowed-browed cooks doting over two giant comals
From these grills spring the namesake food item
a marinated and air-cured beef sliced super thin
“Cecina is more expensive than ribeye,” Alejandro Regens
one of the siblings who opened La Secina two years ago
Some cuts are 30 meters long.” He said this with eyes atwinkle
this love developed over years of traveling with his brothers on motorcycle and unconsciously hunting for the best roadside versions
“We couldn’t find any good cecina in the city
While the restaurant imports its cecina from the widely acknowledged best source of cecina in Mexico
its methods of conveying the meat and even spelling it are unique
spelling the word with an “s” at the beginning seems unnatural (like seeing “steak” spelled “cteak”)
While cecina is traditionally served on its own
La Secina serves its namesake meat amid a wide array of unconventional culinary backdrops: salad
Tlayudas are a Oaxacan specialty usually consisting of a very large
Secina’s version includes beans thickly smeared onto the tortilla
refried beans and perfectly grilled chunks of cecina
dinner conversation halts as diners’ eyes widen
Talk usually resumes with praise for the tlayudas
La Secina complements its meat dishes with a fine selection of artisanal beers
with highlights including a queso fundido stuffed with mushrooms and a veggie tlayuda full of avocado and nopales (cactus paddle)
But the first-time customer at La Secina would be wise to reserve as much stomach space as possible for the restaurant’s delicious eponymous dish
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SPORTING CECINA: Cappellini, Fiorentini, Fiorini, Ghilli (85' Cionini), Startari, Lorenzini, Brizzi, Diagne, Skerma, Olivotto (80' Rovini), El Falahi (65'Lika). Coach: Miano.
SESTESE: Giuntini, Matteo G., Pisaniello, Matteo L., Biondi, Cirillo, Dianda (65' Robi), Safina (75' Pisaneschi), Berti (116' Cucinotta), Ciotola (65' Casati), Manganiello (54' Ermini). Coach: Polloni.
Goalscorers: 50' Fiorini, 92' Biondi, 104', Berti, 122' Ermini.
Notes: Fiorini, Brizzi, Biondi, Safina booked. Sent off: Brizzi double yellow, Skerma and Lika direct.
Here we showcase the tastiest “T” bites from the streets of L.A
you’ll find most of the city's cemitas poblanas trucks and fondas serving Puebla’s signature Mexican sandwich—and one of the most beloved tortas in Mexico—the cemita poblano
A cemita poblana consists of an rustic sesame seed bun, a breaded milanesa cutlet, Oaxacan string cheese, chipotles or pickled red jalapenos, papalo(acrid herb used for seasoning)
Most cemitas poblanas aren’t very good in L.A.
but I’m always willing to give it a shot
Cemitas Poblanas Mi Magdalena has been around for over a decade at their location on Indiana St.
but just have been open for a couple of months on 4th St
The outer decor remains the same as the restaurant that formerly occupied the space
Their cemita poblana is good—not great—but better than other better-known vendors so I turned my attention to another item on the menu that caught my eye
The super taco de cecina de res lives up to its name: a large
huarache-shaped tortilla is loaded with black beans
or street vendor taco like the ones found in Atlixco
a city in Puebla famous for their cecina—to you and I
it’s a taco lover’s fun house piled on a tortilla
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and bites from THEBlvd and Hinoki & the Bird
after fifteen years working in restaurant kitchens
His chef position at a Houston restaurant was eliminated as a result of the pandemic
was finishing her studies at the University of Houston
Their income was dissipating and they needed to do something
They started to sell tlayudas—crispy, fourteen-inch corn tortillas slathered with beans, lettuce, tomatoes, quesillo, and more, from Memo’s native Oaxaca—out of their home. “It did well enough that I began to think how we could move into a food truck,” Memo says. The couple borrowed money from family members and opened their small trailer, El Alebrije Oaxacan Streetfood
To say that year was a memorable one for the Quinteros is an understatement
“It was a lot.” Their decision to focus on that particular cuisine was risky
“We decided to sell Oaxacan food because we didn’t see anyone else doing it,” Memo says
Indeed, there is a dearth of restaurants dedicated to Oaxacan cuisine in Texas. In Houston, one of the only other businesses might be Hugo Ortega’s Xochi, which is a modern, fine-dining interpretation. El Naranjo in Austin serves traditional Oaxacan-inspired dishes from James Beard Award-winner Iliana de la Vega
There might be a smattering of other restaurants
I’ve lost count of the number of times well-intentioned people have claimed pipian verde (a pumpkin seed–based green mole) isn’t a mole.
black bean–stuffed masa triangles doused in crema and sprinkled with queso fresco
The cecina has an initial saltiness that gives way to a surprising sweet note
Memo wanted to put different names on it because that’s how he knew them,” Didi says
“[Tetela and cecina] are better-known words to people,” Memo says in response
The mole at El Alebrije isn’t the popular mole negro
it’s a mole rojo available as a taco
my taco de mole was served with cubed white-meat chicken
Didi assured me that cubing the meat isn’t the standard El Alebrije method
“We prefer to shred the chicken so that it becomes part of the mole,” she says.
Chapulines are also available in a taco and as a side
“The tlayuda is our most popular dish,” Memo says
“After that it’s the tacos and mole.”
The Quinteros have had to compromise to serve their customers at North Shepherd Brewing. El Alebrije’s barbacoa is a juicy bramble of beef, not because the owners believe diners won’t purchase goat barbacoa, but because they’ve have had trouble finding a reliable source. Huitlacoche and squash blossoms were available as taco fillings early on
“They didn’t sell,” Didi says
“With the whole brewery thing and especially a lot of people not knowing a lot of maybe more authentic Oaxacan food
we kind of had to adjust.” They added nachos and loaded fries
“They’re what people like to eat at breweries and kind of snack on,” Didi says
the Quinteros are successful enough to be building a bigger trailer
They’re also ready to introduce other regional Oaxacan dishes
cured pork that’s been rubbed with chiles—to the trailer’s menu
“People are coming from far away to try our Oaxacan food,” Didi says
“We want to be able to offer that more authentic Oaxacan food now.”
El Alebrije Oaxacan Streetfood4816 N. Shepherd Drive, Suite APhone: 832-530-3421Hours: Wednesday–Friday 4–9
This Garfield Ridge Mexican spot gives you a little taste of Guerrero
Beloved in many Spanish-speaking regions and especially in the Mexican state of Guerrero
the dish consists of thin slices of intensely flavorful beef that’s been salted
One of the best places in the city for cecina is Kairos
a perpetually bustling taqueria in Garfield Ridge
Though dried in a fridge—not under the Mexican sun
as in Guerrero—the beef there is succulent and delicious
With cecina swaddled in tender made-to-order corn tortillas and enlivened with pico de gallo and a wedge of lime
Tags: Dining & Drinking, Dining News
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There's a very good chance that you could walk right past Tlayuda L.A
without realizing that there are some mouthwatering Oaxacan tacos being served inside
is situated on Santa Monica Boulevard near Western Avenue
the ingredients are fresh and there are many vegetarian-friendly options for customers
Even the black bean puree that is spread on some of their dishes doesn't contain lard
something that often gets added in Mexican beans
(Photo by Jean Trinh/LAist) Their tacos have delicious Oaxacan-spiced meats that you might not find at your average taco spot
like tasajo (thinly sliced beef that's dried in sea salt) and cecina (pork marinated in chili powder)
which has juicy chunks of chicken smothered in the thick mole sauce that has a perfect balance of chocolatey and savory flavors
(Photo by Jean Trinh/LAist) Many of the tacos are topped with slices of fresh avocado and a nice helping of shredded Oaxacan cheese
This cheese tastes like a saltier mozzarella
and has the texture of string cheese when you shred it
(Photo by Jean Trinh/LAist) "[The Oaxacan cheese] is expensive and a lot of restaurants aren't as generous [as us] to put it on everything," owner Laura Guerrero tells LAist
She adds that some other restaurants will just cut the cheese
and the fact that her restaurant shreds the cheese is a labor of love
This one comes with a trifecta of meats: cesina
(Photo courtesy of Tlayuda L.A.) The restaurant takes its name after the tlayuda (pronounced tlah-yoo-dah)
Theirs is a large toasted tortilla that has a thin spread of the black bean puree all over it
Then comes the fun part: choosing the meat
While you can get single or double meat servings
we suggest going for the "supreme"—that's three kinds of meat—with tasajo
The tasajo and cecina are arranged as large slices of meat on the tlayuda—don't expect the meat to be pre-cut into bite-size pieces
but drizzling the spicy salsas that accompany the dish add flavor to it
Cut it up and eat it like an open-faced pizza
or fold it in half like the New Yorkers do with pizza
Guerrero says that since the dishes are made to order
they can easily take out non-vegan items like cheese per the customer's request
Guerrero opened the restaurant with her family about 10 months ago
The restaurant they took over was already serving Oaxacan food
so they decided to follow in its tradition
"Mexican food isn't so synonymous with healthy food," Guerrero says
"We wanted to change that and provide good food at affordable prices
and dishes that aren't very common in L.A." However
they also carry Mexican staples like burritos and tortas if you have a hankering for something more familiar
Guerrero says that while there are a lot of Oaxacan restaurants in L.A.
many of them aren't very inviting to the general public
unless you go to the very popular Gueleguetza in Koreatown
She's trying to make the food more accessible
has also meticulously tweaked the recipes from Oaxacan dishes in a way that they think would be more appealing to folks
like lightening up on the beans in some dishes
they also try to make sure their cooks are either Oaxacan or trained by someone from Oaxaca
so they can keep with the traditional flavors
they also offer larger classic Oaxacan plates
Guerrero says some of the must tries includes the carne encebollada—grilled meats with onions
which you can get smothered in mole or green salsa
Editor's Note: This story originally referred to the black bean puree as asiento
With a name worthy of a Melville film, L'Evadé takes its cue from the street on which it opened, honoring the memory of Bertrand Clauzel, a French army officer. Deeply attached to Napoleon
Clauzel endeavored to organize his escape even though he was in exile in the United States
This exceptional loyalty inspired the two partners to name the restaurant
demonstrates the chef's haute-cuisine training
whether it's a mastered technique (these balls of creamy egg yolk that accompany smoked leeks and cecina; €14)
or a cooking that we've been waiting to see
and which turns out to be a success (fabulous sweetbreads with a crazy crispness but a heart of butter; €46)
which has nothing to envy to the famous Robuchon purée
with a starter/main course or main course/dessert menu (35€) and a starter/main course/dessert menu (39€)
expect to pay €44 or €52 for the aforementioned menus
and €60 for the tasting menu (€100 with wine and food pairings)
Together with Anthony Rivière, the local restaurateur, Rémi Poulain has put together a wine list that combines grands crus and wines from independent winemakers
as well as a selection of some forty rare Scotch
A new , confidential address that
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SPORTING CECINA: Cappellini, Fiorentini, Fiorini, Ghilli (85’ Cionini), Startari, Lorenzini, Brizzi, Diagne, Skerma, Olivotto (80’ Rovini), El Falahi (65’Lika). All.: Miano.
SESTESE: Giuntini, Matteo G., Pisaniello, Matteo L., Biondi, Cirillo, Dianda (65’ Robi), Safina (75’ Pisaneschi), Berti (116’ Cucinotta), Ciotola (65’ Casati), Manganiello (54’ Ermini). All.: Polloni.
Marcatori: 50’ Fiorini, 92’ Biondi, 104’, Berti, 122’ Ermini.
Note: ammoniti Fiorini, Brizzi, Biondi, Safina. Espulsi: Brizzi doppio giallo, Skerma e Lika diretti.
Continua a leggere tutte le notizie di sport su
THE LILY OF CASTELFIORENTINO: Anichini, Barnini Viola, Del Carlo, Magherini, Malatesti, Nicosia, Pratelli, Sani, Scardigli, Talluri, Tofanari M. Tofanari S., Zingoni Rachele; Picchianti (L). Coach: Buoncristiani and Furiesi.
SAILOR'S BAY CECINA: Nenciati, Giacomello, Colombini, Massari, Turini, Calafati, Biagioli, Bertoli, Orsini, Frongillo, Ricci, Castellano, Coluccini(L). Coach: Menicucci.
Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine // Feasting on the Bounty of the Upper Midwest
often means some version of this informal and easy-ish taco feast
provisioned (of course) with an ample supply of compostable plates and utensils
We space some chairs around the deck and yard
put something festive on the Bluetooth speaker
my go-to source for Mexican meatstuffs and most other Mexican/Hispanic ingredients
tells me that their enchilada is marinated in guajillo chilis and a mixture of spices
it can help feed a yard full of safely-spaced people for a couple of bucks a head
I grill the sheets of taco meat over high heat
on either gas or charcoal (the latter gives you more heat
so you’ll want to lay them on the grill using your hands; have a dish towel or roll of paper towels ready next to the grill
you’ll look like you’ve slaughtered some sort of orange-blooded animal
The sheets of meat are so thin they cook in moments; I grill them only long enough to get a light char on each side—a couple of minutes
at most—then transfer each sheet to a platter
where I cover them with foil while I cook the rest; then
I chop it all with a big-ass meat cleaver to impress the guests
The resulting strips of lean seared pork have a nice chew to them
with a slightly sour tang that packs a lot of flavor
with very little “spice,” despite the chilis
As food snobs (hey, you’re a food snob: you’re getting the Heavy Table newsletter, right?), we’re insistent to the point of militancy on serving corn tortillas made that very day—preferably, only a couple of hours beforehand. We’re lucky to now have a number of excellent tortillerias in town. My closest source is the aforementioned Cinco De Mayo Mercado, across Nicollet from Rainbow Chinese
The fresh tortillas are kept in a large cooler next to the meat counter
They go for a couple of bucks for a 36-tortilla packet
I take a little Playmate cooler with me to keep the tortillas warm until serving
I keep the cooler within reach of the driver’s seat
stacks of tortillas (give them a quick shot in the microwave if they’ve cooled off
I got a nice salty crumbly cheese labeled “Queso para frijoles.” Cotija also works well
Bottled hot sauce (we like to have both the orange and green versions of El Yucateco on the table: they make a colorful
Fresh salsa and/or pico de gallo if you’ve been industrious enough to make some
so we roasted those and tossed them with chunks of charred-then-peeled poblano chilis
and pico de gallo; I’ve included recipes for the guac and salsa
we’ve discovered a silver lining to the pandemic: people absolutely LOVE ice cream sandwiches
single-serving frozen desserts—people are sooooo relieved to plunk down in their chairs happily nibbling away at those
you’ll never go back to the jarred stuff (an important exception: the house-made salsas at Latin markets tend to be fabulous: grab those when you see them)
serranos and garlic in the middle of the pan and place beneath the broiler
Check after a few minutes (ovens vary greatly in their broiling capabilities)
As the top side of each ingredient starts to char
turn them with tongs until they become blackened on both sides
The tomatillos will be all saggy and squishy
so you might need to pick up the sheet of foil to pour the juices into the bowl with the other ingredients
Let the ingredients cool for a bit (peel the garlic when it’s cool enough)
then put everything except for one serrano in a blender—or food processor
Blast everything with the machine till it’s smooth
and decide whether you want to add some or all of the second chili
I find that one serrano gives the salsa a nice little kick; two makes it flat-out spicy
We serve this salsa both as an appetizer with chips (alongside the guac)
and again later as a condiment for the tacos
You can make exceptional guacamole with just three ingredients: ripe avocados
I always use finely chopped white (or red: I’m no purist) onion in mine
4 ripe Haas avocados (the dark nubby ones; the larger
smoother variety is usually stringy and disgusting
Slice the avocados in half lengthwise around the pit
If you’re confident with the avocado pit knife trick
remove the pit that way (Hold the half containing the pit in one hand
then sharply but lightly whack the pit with a sharp chef’s knife
so that the knife blade just wedges into the pit
Then twist the knife to remove the pit from the avocado
Scoop the avocado flesh into a medium bowl
taking care not to make it too smooth—the chunks are what tell your guests that you love them enough to make them fresh guacamole
The lime and the salt should definitely be there
I ended up using two teaspoons of salt and the juice of 1-1/2 limes
and top with chopped cilantro and/or thinly sliced radishes if you really want to impress people
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New York’s ever-changing dining landscape defies easy or finite categorization
I simply waded into the city’s sea of restaurants on an empty stomach
as a vignette on dining in New York right this minute — and not a moment longer
Last week I reported on meals at three starry newcomers and an established (and singular) Georgian restaurant
weighing in on one of the season’s buzziest newcomers as well as three reliable exemplars that help their respective cuisines stand out within New York’s chaotic hodgepodge
a thin flatbread from coastal Tuscany made of chickpea flour
is one swift way to grasp the summery world of Santina
the latest restaurant from the Major Food Group (Carbone
the people of Nice call the crepe-like snack socca
This is Santina’s inspirational locus: It basks along the sun-soaked banks of the Italian-French shoreline
cecina bakes in a pan and makes a supple base for a variety of possible embellishments: tuna tartare sharp with tomatoes
or cubed avocado tossed with cherry tomatoes
These options sport names like "gamberetti" or "avocado Trapanese." Most of the menu reads with this kind of ambiguity
Woe to the diner whose server hasn’t committed the main ingredients of each dish to memory
Above: The inside of Santina; Below: Chitarra Santina with mussels and lamb merguez and the Giardinia crudite
lunch careened along with a breezy lightness
part of the new Whitney Museum of American Art building underneath the High Line
feels like eating in a Mediterranean terrarium
Vases overflowing with birds of paradise perch atop the bar
crystal flowers sprout from gaudy-exquisite chandeliers
and waiters work the floor in a blur of pastels
The food needs to excel to prevent the ambiance from spiraling into campiness
If Santina’s sultry ways with seafood sent my taste buds overseas, then a trip to Parm, also a Major Food Group production, replanted them squarely in Manhattan. Owners Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi, and Jeff Zalaznick opened a second location of their love letter to Italian-American classics in December on the Upper West Side, with more outposts likely coming soon
But there’s no replicating the sense of place engendered at the original on Mulberry Street in Nolita
where red sauce has simmered on stoves in the neighborhood’s six-story tenements for generations
At a table near the back of the narrow dining room
I shoveled in disarmingly delicate mozzarella sticks alternated with vinegary pickles speckled with dried herbs
I quizzed a bunch of colleagues: Any suggestions for a tradition-minded Japanese restaurant that trades in exceptional fish and might be available for a last-minute reservation? (The last part of that query fairly ruled out current leading lights like Shuko and Sushi Nakazawa.) Several of them mentioned 15 East
an unassuming haven near Union Square with a sushi bar and sedate adjoining dining room
From the pristine sashimi spread that kicked off the meal — which included unusually creamy shrimp and shimmery
not-too-pungent saba (mackerel) — I could see why
but this is a place geared to slowing the pace of life for a couple of hours
runs the breadth of styles and prices and the informed staff offers sure guidance
The menu covers ground without rambling on and on
My friend and I smirked at the name of the seaweed salad ("degustation of sea lettuces") and were glad to find it was an unpretentious presentation of 11 varieties startlingly diverse in texture and color
Shards of ponzu granita contrasted lush shigoku oysters with an icy crackle
Mansaf is a celebratory dish of Jordanian and Palestinian cooks that rarely shows up on restaurant menus in America
It traditionally features hunks of lamb simmered in dried and salted goat’s milk yogurt
The lamb splays across a bed of rice pilaf set over flatbread with sprinklings of almonds and pine nuts
a corner restaurant in Brooklyn’s Bay Ridge neighborhood (about a 45-minute subway ride from midtown Manhattan)
chef-owner Rawia Bishara uses fresh yogurt
and decorates the plate with a radish shaved into the shape of a flower
gussied-up derivation still expresses the communal spirit of the dish
particularly after the de rigeur spread of meze that should precede it
The vehicle for noted Peruvian chef Rodrigo Fernandini will offer dishes native to Peru with cultural touches throughout
October 26, 2022 • Restaurant/Bar News
Artesano
the Peruvian restaurant designed for chef Rodrigo Fernandini
who has a solid CV and a big following for Ayllu
The owners gutted the former Kaede sushi restaurant at 90 Chambers
and have created a 45-seat space with banquettes and a spacious bar
think carefully prepared and presented (there are tweezers involved) ceviche
such as tacacho with cecina — smashed plantains with lard and salted meat
There is an a la carte menu as well as a $140 tasting menu
a VIP table tasting menu ($150) and a private dining room downstairs
The kitchen is open to the dining room and the bar area
and the decor is warm and green with a lot of wood and velvet
watching the preparation below is so soothing…
A post shared by Rodrigo (@rodrigofernandini)
A post shared by Rodrigo (@rodrigofernandini)
Cant wait to try it… the NYT wrote a little piece about it too
https://www.nytimes.com/2022/10/25/dining/nyc-restaurant-news.html
Tribeca Citizen on Instagram
no stress or smoking and taking each day as a gift
who credited “light meals and no stress” for his longevity
Tripoli Giannini, nicknamed Tripolino, died at his home in Cecina, near Livorno in Tuscany, on New Year’s Eve. He was the second-oldest man in Europe
wrote on Facebook: “He believed he was immortal … instead
on the day of San Silvestro (New Year’s Eve)
He was 111 years and 133 days old – a record
who has waited for him for over 40 years.”
Giannini was among Italy’s growing number of centenarians
there were 22,000 people aged over 100 in 2023 – the highest number recorded
The vast majority of Italian centenarians are women
who belonged to the Italian army infantry corps
and lived through two world wars and two pandemics
During celebrations for his 111th birthday last August
he said the secrets to his longevity were light meals – always accompanied with wine – no stress
being a non-smoker and treating each day as a gift
The Italian island of Sardinia has been identified as one of five regions in the world that have high concentrations of centenarians
while the Italian city with the most people over the age of 100 is Genoa in Liguria
The Mediterranean diet has long been considered to be the main ingredient for longevity among Italians
the country’s ageing population is a challenge for prime minister Giorgia Meloni’s government
especially as it coincides with a plummeting birthrate
placing pressure on the pension and healthcare systems
births in Italy reached a record low of 393,000
Meloni said in December that reversing the birthrate trend was among her government’s priorities for 2024
with €2.5bn set aside in the budget to tackle the issue
Get your pass and don't miss Meat Attraction
The level of demand of the competition is very high
only 192 reached the maximum recognition by the jury
The Marugan cecina deer jerky was especially valued for its innovation
and the perfect presentation of the slicing
With Halal certification throughout the production process
the aged deer jerky is a perfect substitute for Iberian ham for the Muslim market
www.venisondeer.es
presented with care – including a mussels dish you won’t soon forget
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9 / 9Spiced anglaise torrijas served with milk ice cream and coffee nameleka.Markus RavikPrevious SlideNext SlideGood Food hat15/20How we score
Bar Alto has always been a restaurateur’s restaurant
It’s not uncommon to find a bunch of them at the Brisbane Powerhouse eatery on their RDOs
grazing over its rustic but considered plates of Italian food
often you won’t find Bar Alto among diners’ picks of this city’s best Italian
And that’s in part because owner Simon Hill doesn’t go searching for plaudits (despite receiving plenty in the past with classic restaurants such as Ortiga and Isis)
Bosco opened in Newstead in September last year.Markus RavikAdvertisementIt’s no surprise
that Bosco’s reputation has slowly seeped into the dining public since it opened in September
The restaurant hides in plain sight in a large black warehouse on Austin Street in Newstead
attached to the front of the Brewbakers commercial bakery (Brewbakers closed its retail shop in June
but continues to bake for commercial clients)
Slip past a sheer curtain and you’ll find a venue laid out like a dining hall made fancy
rows of long tables accommodating couples and separate groups of diners
with its clever lighting and sheer curtains
resembles a gussied-up dining hall.Markus RavikOn the Thursday night we visit it has a solid pump on
well-tuned lighting and a raging hearth lending the room an intimate vibe
Fire sets the agenda for chef Sajith Vengateri’s broadly western European menu
which takes most of its touchpoints from the more rustic elements of Basque cooking
though – who now oversees both Alto and Bosco – has always been a dab hand at mixing the comfortable with the artful
Baccala mantecato with cecina nero.Markus RavikTake a baccala mantecato with cecina nero – one of the stars of a killer snack menu (essential for a restaurant in 2024
it seems): with its fried chickpea bread flavoured with squid ink and crisped into the shape of a flower
and a dollop of whipped cod sparkling under Bosco’s pendant lights
it’s one of the prettiest things you’ll ever lay your eyes upon
and hits the palate perfectly seasoned with a satisfying crunch
It’s a similar story with a house suckling pig croqueta that avoids any overbearing heaviness
and a chicken liver cannoli skilfully enlivened with a dash of armagnac
We resist the temptation to order another round
Quail wrapped in pancetta with an apple and chestnut butter.Markus RavikThe larger plates
are where the kitchen really begins to flex its muscle
using a parrilla grill and a custom-made “infernillo” – a South American-style hearth where the chefs cook between two fires
hung over the fire and then finished on the grill is Vengateri getting out of the way of his produce almost to a fault
A sweet apple and chestnut butter is perhaps not quite strong enough an accompaniment
Mussels served with cider cream and como Vienna.Markus RavikThe showstopper
is a mussels dish that neither myself nor my dining partner will soon forget
A phalanx of Kinkawooka blue mussels from South Australia have been stripped of their shells and laid out in cider cream
an accompanying chunk of como Vienna bread given a lick of fire but left fluffy inside
I’m still vaguely spooning at the plate long after nothing’s left
prawns and scallops cooked in a clay pot is similarly soul-warming
a tomato-saffron roux poured at the table leaving it a touch one-note (at the time of writing
the angel-hair pasta has been replaced by squid ink risoni)
aided by a side dish of heirloom pumpkin and creme fraiche that pops with speck and sage
now served with squid ink risoni.Markus RavikAdvertisementHill has always prided himself on the quality of his wine lists and everything we sample with the food hits the mark – a Giovanni Rosso roero arneis from Piedmont
a La Tonelle rose from Alpes de-Haute Provence
They’re drops strong enough to converse with the food without setting fire to your credit card
there’s a precisely baked chocolate Basque cheesecake with vanilla cream and a house-made cherry preserve
and spiced anglaise torrijas served with a milk ice cream and coffee namelaka
not less – an achievement this far into the meal
Most of Bosco’s proteins are being cooked on a parrilla grill and a showstopping “infernillo” – a South American-style hearth where you cook between two fires
one above and one below.Markus RavikHill wants this restaurant to be a third place for Newstead locals
you can’t help but feel he’s more or less nailed it
Our server – who misses just one beat all night before catching it like a pro – even lets us dwell in the bar area for a couple more drinks
despite the fact we’re the last people in the place
Spiced anglaise torrijas served with milk ice cream and coffee namelaka.Markus RavikThat thoughtfulness is the through-line with Bosco
from the food to the drinks to the manner in which it’s all delivered
Be envious of those Newstead types who get to call this their local – Bosco is a cracker
Go-to dish: Mussels served with cider cream and como Vienna
Drinks: An expansive Euro-themed wine list with a thoughtful by-the-glass selection
true Mexican food was hard to find in Evansville
Now we have a number of authentic restaurants and food trucks
will be happening at Bosse Field this Saturday from 1-10 p.m
That means it’s time to eat some street food
The fun thing about Mexican street food is that each vendor offers a list of meats and maybe a few vegetable fillings and you choose whichever you like to stuff your taco
if you’re standing in line and find yourself staring at bunch of Spanish words with which you are unfamiliar
We’re here to help with a glossary of taco (and other antojito or snack) fillings and their pronunciations
There are significant differences in the recipe depending on the part of Mexico it is from
Birria (Beer-ee-ah): Shredded beef that has been gently simmered for a long time in a pot of seasoned broth
Birria may be served as an entrée or as a taco filling
sometimes griddled with cheese as a quesabirria taco
because a simple birria taco usually has meat
Cabeza (Ca-bay-za): Cabeza literally means “head.” In practice
most places don’t have a pot big enough to simmer a whole cow’s head
Cachete (Ca-chet-tay): Chachete is the cheek muscles of the cow
so they have a lot of connective tissue and that means a lot of flavor
It is slowly simmered and shredded to serve
Carne Asada (Car-nay ah-sa-dah): Grilled beef
It’s often called “steak” but that doesn’t mean literal steak as in ribeye
quickly griddled and cut into small pieces
Cecina (Ces-ee-nah): Cecina can mean a few different things according to our research
but the key seems to be that the meat is marinated or rubbed with chili and salted
then thinly sliced or pounded and dried (a little or a lot) before cooking
It might be similar to carne asada with an extra kick from the spice rub
then it is chopped and quickly griddled before being added to tacos
Picadillo (Pee-kah-dee-yo): Ground beef with spices
Suadero (Sue-ah-der-oh): Beef belly or fatty brisket
then chopped and browned quickly on the griddle to serve
The flavor is reminiscent of chicken livers
Chivo (Chee-bo): Chivo is the word for goat
Birria Chivo (Beer-ee-ah chee-bo): Slow simmered
PorkAl Pastor (Al Pas-tor): Slices of pork marinated with pineapple
It’s grilled to serve and cut into small pieces or cooked on a vertical rotisserie called a trompo
long-simmered until tender in a flavorful broth
Carnitas (Car-nee-tas): Chunks of pork shoulder
slowly fried in lard until crisp on the outside
Chicharron (Chee-cha-ron): Fried pork skins
in which case it’s written chicharron verde
not too hot but intensely seasoned with spices
breadcrumb-coated chicken breast used as a sandwich filling
Pollo Asado (Poy-yo ah-sah-do): Grilled sliced chicken
Pollo Deshebrado (Poy-yo desh-eh-bra-do): Shredded chicken with mild seasonings
Tinga (Tin-gah): Shredded chicken in a chipotle chile sauce
More: Evansville-area food news: 7 bites of food news for you this week
Nopales (no-pah-les): Strips of prickly pear cactus leaves
ShareThis venue appears in the Sydney hit list September 2023 See all stories.1 / 10Memela del mercado (grilled maize dough
grilled drunken peaches and mezcal molasses.Nick de Lorenzo10 / 10Mezcal
Oaxaca way.Nick de LorenzoPrevious SlideNext SlideFinally across all the cool hospitality job titles
Don’t rest on your botanical laurels just yet because a mezcologist just rode into town
Mezcologist Diana Farrera picked up her credentials at a centre for studies of mezcal in her native state of Oaxaca
Not only is Oaxaca the birthplace of the Mexican spirit made from agave
she likens the intense study of it to doing a masters of wine
Chef Manuel Diaz (left) and mezcologist Diana Farrera.Nick de LorenzoAdvertisement“You learn how to taste it
Sydneysiders will be able to tap her knowledge first-hand when Farrera and her partner
a Mexican restaurant and mezcal bar in Glebe
The duo kickstarted their ambitious Sydney plans last year, with the opening of Nativo Mexican, a tiny Pyrmont taqueria with just 14 outdoor seats
While the tacos at the hole-in-the-wall venue gained plenty of foodie traction
Nu’u by Nativo on Glebe Point Road will give Diaz a chance to show off more of the skills he polished at upmarket restaurants in Mexico and France
Pulpo escondido (grilled octopus on chintextle paste with huitlacoche and tostada
left) and chile relleno (poblano chilli stuffed with shiitake picadillo over mole verde
right).Nick de LorenzoAdvertisementAt its heart
the menu is an ode to Oaxaca and southern Mexican
the food full of strong flavours,” says Diaz
“Ask Mexicans where the best food in Mexico is and they’ll tell you to go to Oaxaca.”
Their opening menu will include grilled maize dough with bone marrow and pork shoulder
an octopus dish with a paste made from assorted dried chillies
and crispy pork belly with grilled drunken peaches and mezcal molasses
“There are 30 different ingredients in it,” Diaz says of rich mole base served with a pepper stuffed with shiitake picadillo
Oaxaca way.Nick de Lorenzo“We’re doing a green mole
if you don’t make it properly it’s not going to be balanced.”
Nu’u by Nativo’s 18 small dishes are designed to share and match with Farrera’s drinks program
She’s imported small batch artisanal mezcals
and crafted a mezcal-based cocktail line-up named after famous women from Oaxaca
29 Glebe Point Road, Glebe, nubynativo.com.au
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There’s a sign outside Theo’s Cecinas that says “since 1931”
We’re sitting with Theo’s owner Cristian Garcia and ask if they’ve really been selling traditional Chilean meats for 87 years
The story starts in 1931 when Cristian Garcia’s grandfather moved to the capital of Chile
He got a job at the famous butchery La Chilenta
grew up in that shop and at 14 years of age he started working
Three years later he gets his own butcher store
but there were no South American-style butcheries here
a leather-tanning factory – whatever he could find,” says Garcia
travel spots and more – curated by those who know
That didn’t stop him from continuing the trade
“Me and my brother would take a day off school to go to an abattoir in Homebush and buy a pig
This was all made in our flat in Matraville.”
They gave the sausages and marinated meats to friends and hosted barbeques at home
Teodoro thought there was a market for these products so the family got a lease on Crown Street in Surry Hills and opened Theo’s Cecinas Sydney
Even though Teodoro had employed his wife and two sons to help him
There weren’t enough Chileans to support the business and many people considered the meats a mystery
There were some days we didn't have any takings,” he says
When Broadsheet visits the now Fairfield-based shop
Most greet Garcia and they all seem to have a good knowledge of what’s on offer
What most people come for is the handmade sausages
longaniza (a longer cured chorizo) and blood sausage
Others want the chilli-garlic marinated pork belly
Some are there for the Chilean groceries such as dried seaweed
while others seem to be there for the chats
“We've changed a lot but what makes it easy is that we don't have to do anything new
Everything is about honouring my dad’s name,” he says
theoscecinas.com.au
This is another edition of Broadsheet's Local Knowledge weekly series, where Nick Jordan explores the eateries at the heart of Sydney's different cultural communities. Read more here
This article first appeared on Broadsheet on August 22
Menu items may have changed since publication
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